Klipper Pre-Flight Checklist - Don't Forget These Steps!

so you've successfully installed clipper on your machine and you're ready to go ahead and start pushing plastic however there is a few things you're going to have to configure and tune before you do your first print and also there is an order of operations when it comes to doing your initial setup with clipper if you do things out of order you're gonna have a bad time so let's get started [Music] now for this video i'm gonna be using fluid as my interface of choice as that's what's installed on this machine i recently built this is the voronv 1.8 however this guide will apply to pretty much any machine you've installed clipper on and any of the interfaces as well i do recommend following along with the documentation linked in the description if you have any questions or any concerns with any of the steps going forward as this video will be more of a general overview of the steps in the proper order to do them in so one of the first things you're going to want to do on power up is ensure that your heaters are properly set up and configured in my case here i only have a single hot and heater and a bed heater you're going to want to ensure that both heaters are reading roughly the same temperature as well for example if your bed heater is reading 60 and your hot end heater is reading 20 for example odds are the bed heater is incorrectly configured so you're gonna have to go ahead and correct that once they are corrected and they're reading both roughly room temperature i do recommend telling them to heat up you don't have to heat them up much set your temperature for each one to about 50 degrees celsius and just ensure that they are responding and heating up once you see that you do have some response everything's heating up and turns off when you tell it to turn off you're okay to move on to the next step now the next step is very simple with the machine powered on grab your tool head and just kind of move it around you're going to want to make sure that all your accesses xyz and extruder can move freely by hand with the motors powered off if you have a motor that does not move odds are it's either a wiring issue or a firmware issue the first and simplest method to check is going into your firmware the reason this can happen is an improperly configured enable pin to correct this just look at the enable pin for the motor in question either add or remove an exclamation mark before the pin assignment this will invert the pin and hopefully after a save and restart everything should move if the pin is configured correctly though and you are still not getting any motor movement it may be a wiring issue that you'll have to correct now once you ensure that your motors are set up correctly you're going to have to check your end stops next now you can either run the query end stops command through your terminal or in fluid for example there is an option for directly seeing the results of your end stops so what you're going to do is you're going to pull all your end stops at once and ensure that without anything touching they're all in the open state if they are in the triggered state when they shouldn't be triggered you're going to go into your config and either add or remove an exclamation mark before the pin assignment for the end stop in question for that access once all your end stops are reading open with nothing in contact with them you're going to go ahead and activate each end stop individually and check the readout afterwards you want to make sure that all your end stops are triggering now you can do this two methods either by pushing the end stop directly or what i like to do is actually move the tool head or whatever will trigger the end stop against the end stop this confirms that one the end stop functions and two that you're going to get proper motion out of your printer the last thing you want is to hold your machine and have a cable shroud or a zip tie blocking the movement and causing the printer to error out once your end stops are configured the next thing we're going to do is check our motor direction by doing what's called a stepper buzz the stepper buzz command basically tells the motor to move in the positive and the negative directions a very small amount several times so for example on my printer here with a bed moving in the z direction the bed will drop down and move up drop down and move up if you notice the motor moving in the opposite direction to what you want the easiest way to fix this is simply invert the direction pin in your configuration so go into your config for the motor in question for your direction pin put an exclamation or remove the exclamation mark before the pin and this will invert its direction on a save and restart now on a multi-z printer such as this or my voron v2 which has four zed motors for example you need to check each motor individually because the last thing you want to do is have motors moving in opposite directions during an attempted travel move this can cause damage to your printer so you're going to want to go through and check each motor individually and make sure they are traveling in the correct direction when commanded so our end stops are set up correctly and our motors are moving in the proper directions the next thing we're going to do is attempt our first home now with a core xy motion system odds are and if you're like me you're never going to be lucky in your first attempted home your tool head is going to go in the wrong direction in a core xy base system the motors work together or opposite of each other to get motion so what can happen is if your a and b motors are not running in the correct directions you're not going to get the proper motion this can be corrected by either inverting the motor direction for one motor both motors or in some cases you even have to swap the plugs in the controller board to get the correct motion now there are pictures showing how to correct this and the troubleshooting steps on the voron website and i do have a link below for that as well so the steps for this depend on what kind of printer you have built but i'm going to be using my voron v1 here as an example now in a war on v1 the x and y home traditionally and then it homes it zed off of a zed micro switch installed next to the bed so what i'm going to do is home my x and y first once homed i'm going to move it to where it needs to be for homing the zed make a note of what the x and y coordinates for that are i'm going to go into my configuration edit the line that is required for the safe home position for the zed to that coordinate save restart and then i'm going to hold my xy again and then i'm going to ensure that i can do a safe zone afterwards so now our printer is homing successfully we're getting correct motion and everything's moving properly the next thing we're going to do is calibrate our pid tune for the hot end and the bed now calibrating your pi tune is a very simple process what i would recommend is putting your tool head in a safe position usually in the middle of the print volume and you're going to run a command to calibrate your pid tune for the hot end and then afterwards ap editing tune for the bed when you do pid tunes for your hotend and bed i do recommend pid tuning as the printer will run most often so for example if it is a printer that will mostly print pla pid tune your hot end at 200 degrees celsius with your part fan on high and tune your bed at say 60 celsius in my case here where i print a lot of abs i do my pid tune at 245 celsius with the fan on twenty percent 110 on the bed and itune with my printer fully enclosed the reason for this is your pid tune will be most accurate if you tune it for what the printer will most often be experiencing and the next step after doing a pid tune is with our hot end which can now heat up properly we're going to check our extruder calibration now when it comes to calibrating your extruder there is a ton of old wives tales community knowledge he said she said or i've always done it this way that's how i'm going to keep telling people to do it and they're going to keep telling people to do it because that's how they've always done it really when it comes to calibrating your extruder what you are setting up is when you tell your extruder to push 100 millimeters of plastic it pushes 100 millimeters of plastic as accurately as possible now if possible you're going to remove your hot end at this point or if it's a boating setup you're going to disconnect the bowden from the hot end you are going to be extruding into open air now if your printer setup does not allow you to remove the hot end or you're uncomfortable playing with electrical i would recommend extruding slowly and with a hotter than normal hotend just to ensure that you're minimizing any potential for interfering with the motion of the extruder itself now the reason we are doing this is because we are calibrating just the motion of the extruder we are calibrating just motion we are not calibrating flow you're not doing any of that that will come later and we will not be calibrating these steps based on any printed object calibrating motion of a 3d printer based off an imperfect object such as a 3d print is not the correct way to do things now when it comes to adjusting the motion of the extruder you're going to tell it to extrude 100 millimeters of filament you're going to ensure it's moving in the correct direction if it's not go ahead and invert the direction pin in the config for the extruder motor and you're going to measure it if your extruder is extruding the correct amount you're good you can move on to the next step if it is not extruding the correct amount you're going to have to go into the config and you're going to have to adjust its value now with clipper you may notice it's a little bit different than other firmwares whereas other firmwares work off steps per millimeter or millimeters or step clipper works off of rotation distance now at first this may seem a little bit weird and confusing but on paper and once you work with it for a bit it makes a lot of sense essentially you are telling the printer the raw data and it's doing the calculation to adjust these steps automatically so you don't need to do any i am running at this many microsteps uh what is my e-steps now all rotation distance is is telling the printer how many micro steps i'm running any gearing involved how many full steps does it take for the motor to do one rotation so for example a 1.8 degree stepper is 200 steps per rotation a 0.90 degree stepper 400 steps per rotation and lastly you're telling it how much linear direction one full rotation is so for a 20 tooth 2 gt gear for example one full rotation is 40. for our tr 88 lead screw one full rotation is eight millimeters of travel a tr8 four lead screw one full rotation four millimeters of travel so you're basically telling the printer what these stock values are and then it'll automatically calculate your e-steps this is very handy for motion systems that aren't strictly linear so you may not really need all the full benefit of this depending on your printer but things such as a polar printer take more advantage of this also if you decide to play around with your micro stepping you don't need to recalculate your e-steps all you just do is tilt the new micro stepping and it does all the math for you so when it comes to adjusting your extruder value you're going to be adjusting just the rotation distance number so you're going to do your math on either if you need to increase or decrease your rotation distance value for extruder to calibrate your extrusion flow until when you tell it to extrude 100 millimeters of filament it extrudes 100 millimeters of filament now after your extruder distance is calibrated i do recommend just ensuring that your xyz distance is correct so use something such as a ruler tell your printer to move 50 millimeters in each direction and ensure it's moving that correct amount again you should not be adjusting any of these values based off of the printed part there are way too many variables that can affect the dimensions of a printed part and using that to adjust the motion of your printer itself is not the correct way of going about it also don't forget if your printer has some sort of feature such as a quad gantry level a zed tilt on a dual z setup or a bed mesh you're going to want to head and go and ensure that those are properly configured as well on most of the stock voron configs it's either pre-set up automatically or you're just going to have to go into the config and uncomment the sections that pertain to the build size that you have built if your printer's default config does not have this set up yet or this is a new build and you're going to have to manually input these i do recommend checking out the clipper documentation on the github for how to properly set this up as i won't be covering that in this video so to recap at this point our end stops work our printer homes our motion is in the correct direction and it's moving the correct amount and our extruder can push the desired amount of filament when we tell it to also our pid tunes are done so what can we do next you're going to print something this is a brand new printer print a benchy print a cube print a bunch of benches print a bunch of cubes you're going to want to put some time on the printer right now there is still some more tuning and i'll get to that in a second but you want to get some time on the machine you want to make sure all your screws are tight at this point you want to ensure your belts are properly tensioned at this point stuff needs a little bit of a break in period especially with a brand new build you want to make sure hey you didn't forget a bearing at some point you want to make sure everything is working properly so you're going to print something you might have some issues with the print again you're not fully tuned yet however you want to make sure the machine itself is behaving properly now after that then we can move on to the fun stuff now there's two more things i want to go over pressure advanced and input shaping what input shaper does it allows your printer to be tuned to cancel out resonances that happen at higher speeds and higher acceleration this allows you to print faster with minimal ringing and the other thing is pressure advanced pressure advance is adjusting the flow of filament through the nozzle as you print this can lead to sharper cleaner prints less blobby corners and cleaner retractions now with those two there actually is an order of operations to them you have to do your pressure advanced tuning after your input shaper tuning the outcome from your input shaper tune will affect your pressure advanced value usually it lowers it so what this means is if you're not doing an input shape or tune right now you don't have the accelerometer you don't want to do it just yet you can go ahead and do your pressure advance to however if you do do an input shape or tune in the future you're going to have to take a step back redo your pressure advance after you do your input shaper tune because the value will change now i do have full videos on both of these so i'm just going to touch on the basics of doing an input shaper tune and a pressure advanced tune and some new features with input shaper now with input shaper there's two ways of tuning it with and without the accelerometer without uses a test print like pressure advance and you do some measuring i do highly recommend though that you do the input shaper tuning with the accelerometer the results are much more accurate and it's actually a quicker process the first thing you have to do is connect the accelerometer to your raspberry pi you can see here on this image how to easily hook it up and you are going to want to use wires that are long enough to reach from the raspberry pi to your tool head with some slack now when it comes to mounting your accelerometer you are going to want to mount it to your tool head as rigidly as possible if you use something like double-sided tape a little bit of flex that double-sided tape has will affect your final results you're going to want to screw it down at least ensure you don't short anything and the easiest way is remove a screw and use a longer screw to mount it some tool heads do have the option for permanently mounting this however that's not really required because once the tune is done you don't really need this installed anymore now you are going to have to install some software to make this work so you're going to have to log into your raspberry pi with something like putty you're going to have to run some commands just follow along with the instructions here and you're also going to have to install your raspberry pi as a secondary mcu within clipper itself so just follow these two sets of instructions it's mostly just copy and pasting until it is installed and you can restart clipper so once everything's installed everything's set up and you're not getting any errors hopefully you are going to run accelerometer query this will give you a readout just to ensure that it is talking to the accelerometer and everything is reading correctly now i do highly recommend reading through the whole document here on input shaper and how to properly tune it there's a lot more in-depth information there however i am going to recommend that you start off now with just the simple auto calibrate with input shaper on my previous video where i covered input shaping i showed you how to do it manually read the charts and select a value however the shaper calibrate feature which is the automatic input shaper tuning is much more robust than it used to be when i made that video and that's actually what i'm using on this printer right now put your tool head in the middle of your print volume and just run shaper understore calibrate let it do its thing and read the output so once this is done it will spit out the values for the different kinds of input shaper per axis and its recommended final input shaper now do be aware that the more aggressive input shaper you go with will lead to less ringing however it also leads to rounded corners so unless you absolutely need an extremely high value input shaper i recommend that you run one of those lower end input shapers such as zv i run mostly mzv on my printers yes you won't be able to push quite as high of a speed however you're still going to get those crisp sharp corners with it so you can just do save config at this point to save those values what you can also do is manually adjust them so after you save it if you do decide you want to drop down from say 2hump ei to an mzv just copy and paste that value into your config and adjust it another handy tip is on a belted system like a core xy you can run into issues with the results from input shaper if you tune at over 100 megahertz you can limit that how to do that and more advanced information about input shaper tuning is in the documentation so i highly suggest you read that and lastly pressure advance this is a very simple thing to tune there's built-in macros to clipper to do your pressure advanced tune and again i do have another full video on my channel on how to do a pressure advanced tune so i'll just touch on the basics you're going to slice and print the test print off of the clipper github here you're going to want to slice this with some certain settings you're going to want to print it at 100 millimeters a second one to two walls no in-fill no top layer you're going to turn off any dynamic acceleration control and you're going to print it at a coarse layer height so for example on a 0.4 millimeter nozzle you're going to print it at 0.3 millimeters of layer height you're going to run the command to set your velocity limit with clipper and also you're going to run a command that will adjust your pressure advance as the print goes on there's two different commands here one for a boating setup and one for direct feed setup now once your print is done go ahead take that off the bed don't do what i did and print abs open air in a room with a fan you're not gonna be happy with the results but once you have a successful print you're gonna go ahead and take a scale and you're gonna measure from the bottom up to the sharpest corner on the print and you can hold this under the light in different directions and you're gonna have to make a judgment based on the appearance of where that point is but you're gonna see a point where the corner is bulged it'll get really nice and sharp and crisp and then you'll also see it'll start to string out again as it's under extruding at that point once you find and measure the distance from the bottom to the cleanest point of the print you're going to do some very simple math and that is going to be your input shaper value add that to your config hit save and restart and you're good to go at this point your printer is pretty much set up with its introduction tune for the firmware itself now of course there are much more things you can do to properly calibrate and tune a printer and i haven't even touched on any slicer tuning stuff so when you print something and your walls are a little thick you're going to be adjusting that in your slicer so i hope you found this video helpful i do highly recommend that you read all the documentation in the description below and watch the videos on input shaper and pressure advance that i have on my channel as well there is much more in-depth knowledge in those videos and in those documentations than what i covered on the video today this video again was just kind of a quick overview and covering the order of operations and the things you need to do before you start printing with your printer running clipper i hope you enjoyed the video if you want to help support the content i create and the things i do i do have links in the description as well i hope you learned something today and as always have a nice day thank you [Music] [Music] you

Channel: NERO 3D

Views: 16,426

Keywords: voron, voron design, v2, v2.4, v2.1, v24, v2.2, v2.0, vzero, v0, v1, serial, request, cereal, overview, intro, 3d, printer, 3d printer, corexy, core, xy, abs, enclosed, klipper, input shaper, input, shaper, pressure, advance, pressure advance, tune, config, checklist, pre flight, setup, guide, how to, how, to, howto, first steps, error, fix

Id: -aPiY6ilaWM

Length: 20min 25sec (1225 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 17 2021