BL Touch complete setup for Klipper! Maximize your probed bed mesh!

on today's episode I'm gonna go through all the steps necessary to configure your blush to use with Clipper firmware we make some additions to our printer.cfg for initialization we're going to go through some sanity checks I'm going to go through the X and Y offset for your given shroud we're going to adjust our Z offset which of course is great for that first layer adhesion and then finally I go over how to create the correct probing bed mesh which I think gives people the most headaches you often get a movement out of range issue I'm going to show you all the adjustments necessary to make sure that goes away and here we go [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] thank you [Music] folks welcome to the channel I am Leo of Prince Leo 3T thank you for joining me today in our ongoing series of getting your 3D printer ready for Clipper firmware in today's video we're going to go over the pl touch now no matter what printer you have however this information should all apply to you this is meant to be Universal so you should be able to take these Concepts and use them on your current printer now in this video I'm going to say the word BL touch a lot I don't necessarily only mean the BL touch this is going to be any autobed leveler similar to it so a CR Touch of course a BL touch any of the various clones a 3D man a 3D touch whenever I say BL touch today I'm talking about all of those just using BL touch as shorthand as it was the original bed probing device now there are several steps in our process to make sure the BL touches up and running and I recommend you go from the bottom all the way to the top and don't miss any in between even the beginning sanity checks aren't necessary just to make sure everything's working like it should and then all the offsets we use are x y and RZ offset all get applied further in the video video using different things so you want to make sure you have those as accurate as possible and in this video we go over that now to start we're going to begin in our printer.cfg because we need to add a few sections to initialize our BL touch so Clipper knows that we have one and how to work with it and of course that starts on your front end and for me I'm using fluid our BL touch setup starts in our front end and we're looking to make some edits to our printer.cfg open your printer.cfg and you're going to paste in the following three sections and I'm going to go through them one by one the first section is BL touch the top two areas here are the pins that are dedicated to your specific board so these will be different for every main board below the pins are the X and Y offsets for rbl touch these are extremely important and we're going to calibrate them today but for now we need to have some values in there so you can stick with whatever you've pasted in below that is samples and that's the number of probes our BL touch will take at each probing Point speed is the speed at which our BL touch is going to move in position when we do the Z offset calibrate both in the C and the X and Y directions and then Z offset this is something we're going to calibrate also later in the video it needs to be uncommon and have some value normally it would just be 0.0 which is perfectly fine the next section we're going to paste in here is called safe Z home and this is the location of where the BL touch is going to home after the X and Y end stops are triggered in general it should be somewhere around the middle of your build plate speed is the speed at which the movement will take place 50 is perfectly normal z-hop is how far the x-axis is going to raise off the bed after you are finished homing I like to keep it at 10 and the Z hop speed is the speed at which it will do that now to get our BL touch configured these are the only two sections we currently need we are going to add a bed mesh section and that will determine the exact probing grid of our BL touch but for now we only need these two sections and we also need to amend another section and that is under stepper Z under step or Z we have an end stop pin and this needs to be changed you can erase everything that's after it and you can paste in this new line probe colon Z virtual and stop and then we're going to comment out the position and stop this is all being handled within the BL touch section already I'm going to save then I'm going to restart my firmware so everything takes effect I've restarted the firmware everything is working so now it is time for everyone's favorite sanity checks we love these everything's going to be done now through the console of the printer's front end so we start here and this is the first line we're going to send this should force the pin on the BL touch to extend and for the light in the housing to turn off after that command we're going to ask it to retract using this command now the pin should retract and the light should illuminate again if all those are working fine we can move forward we're going to ask the PIN to move down again and this time we're going to put it in touch mode which means it's going to respond to us with its current state whether it's open meaning it wants to probe a point or triggered meaning it has already probed the point and it's retracted back into its housing I use this line and returned its current state open that's exactly what it should return if that pin is extended the return result should be opened now very gently with my finger I push the pin back into the housing it retracts and the light turns back on I send the same command I just did and the return should be triggered which is exactly what it is that means my BL touch is working as it is intended if you ran into any issues here if it wasn't deploying if it was deploying but giving you the wrong State open when it was triggered triggered when it was open you can go to my website I discuss exactly what each one of those errors means and what's impossible fixes are my bltouch is working fine though so what I'm going to do is turn my Motors off then I'm going to manually raise my x-axis pretty high because I want to Auto home this but I want to stop it with my hand just to make sure it's not going to careen into my bed and now I can order home and during The Descent the home of the z-axis I'm going to very gently push up that pin of the BL touch making sure it does in fact stop my nozzle from moving down it should stop and if it does you now know you can safely Auto home your machine because your BL touch is definitely working as it is intended to now we start with the different offset adjustments and the first one we're going to begin with is the X and Y offset we're going to use a Post-It note and then something to write on that Post-It note we're going to fix it under our probe tip and then we're going to go to our front end and we're going to move our nozzle over this and we're going to find out just how far our probe tip is from our nozzle to do this calibration we're not going to need a ruler or a caliper anything like that all we need is a Post-It note and we need to make a mark on that Post-It note so you're going to need a marker then we home our machine and our goal is to put the Post-it note on the bed with the dot directly below the probe tip on our BL touch if you want like I do you can use the command line and tell the BL touch to extend its probe pin this just helps if the probe tip is far enough away where you can't quite see if it's lined up of course if you do that make sure you do retract the Rope tip with the correct command once you have your Post-it lined up go back to the home screen of fluid and take a note of the current coordinates write them down somewhere because we're going to use them in a formula at the end of this Now using the controls of the printer's front end I want to move the nozzle tip directly over the mark that the probe tip was at now it doesn't matter if you overshoot it or undershoot it so long as you get that nozzle directly over the mark and it may help to lower the z-axis so the nozzle close to the bed and you can see a lot better if the nozzle is in fact lined up once the nozzle is over the Mark we take the current coordinates my ending coordinates were 82.5 in the X and the Y was 119 and now it's a simple math equation I take my ending coordinates and from it I subtract my starting coordinates and yes it is possible you might end up with a negative number so for me I'll start with my x coordinates 82.5 and from it I subtract 125 and I end up with negative 42.5 that is my offset in the X Direction write that down somewhere and now to compute the Y offset I take 119 I subtract 125 and I get Negative 6. so now I can go back into my printer.cfg and then make the necessary changes I go into the BL touch section and I add in my EXO offset which was negative 42.5 and underneath that I add in my y offset which was negative six I can save my firmware but I make sure to restart so it takes effect now don't throw that posted away we're going to use it for this next step and that's for the adjustment of our Z offset and Z offset is similar to The X and Y offset it's the distance the probe tip is from the nozzle in the z-axis or the height that it is different now Clipper has onboard commands to run this calibration for us so we jump back on our front end and we do everything from there before we start our Z offset calibration I want you to jump back into printer.cfg which you're going to be sick of me saying this but we make all our changes here we're going to now go down to stepper Z and you need to add a section if it's not here called position Min and you're going to want to make position Min negative six because we're going to be taking up the gap between our probe tip and our nozzle we're going to be moving the nozzle closer to the bed we need to have a negative minimum distance so that the nozzle can correctly travel as close to the bed as possible negative six should be perfectly fine if during the coset calibration you run into a movement error you may need to come back in here and decrease that position minimum after doing this save restart your firmware RZ offset calibration will also take place at the command line and before we do we need to order a home or machine and then we can run the line probe underscore calibrate Pro calibrate rehomes easy access and then moves the printhead into a position based on the X and Y offsets of our BL touch that we already input then a new screen comes up and this allows us to adjust the height of the nozzle now the Z offset adjustment is just that a height adjustment looking at the menu right here you'll see that there are measurements right in the center and those are in millimeter the subtraction sign lowers the nozzle closer to the bed and the plus sign moves the nozzle further away from the bed because my nozzle is so far away from the bed at start I'm going to move in the largest number available which is one millimeter so I start making those negative millimeter adjustments as I get closer to the bed I am constantly looking and when I get close enough where I think one millimeter movement is too much I start making smaller adjustments at some point I go too far down and I can know I increase the distance in small increments until I can get my Post-It note back under there and I feel the adequate drag once I feel comfortable there is good tension on my Post-It note but I can still move it I accept that position by clicking the accept button it doesn't save into orprinter.cfg just yet we need to save it ourselves you can click on the save underscore config command which populates it in your command line and you can send it through there or what I like to do is the disk at top if you click that a new menu opens up and it shows you all the settings that will be saved and right here it shows us our BL touch Z offset setting is going to be saved and when I'm all finished I can enter my printer.cfg I look at the BL touch section and now the Z offset has been commented out and if we go to the bottom of this file and my BL Z offset is saved right down here to begin calibrating our bed mesh we need to First make some additions to our printer.cfg just like we did earlier we're going to add the section bed mesh and you can copy and paste this starting from the top speed is the speed at which we will move between probing points below that horizontal move Z this is how far the probe or the nozzle is going to rise after it froze mesh Min and mesh Max these are the two most important parts to this section and together they provide two coordinates that will create a boundary box that our Pro will stay within while it performs the probing routine this is what we'll calculate today these need to have values though for now you can keep something just like I have in here probe count this is how many pro points you're going to get along the X and the y axis right now I have it as five five a total of 25 probing points mesh PPS this is the amount of points that Clipper will calculate between physical probing points so while we're only getting 25 probed points Clipper is going to compute a whole lot more to get an accurate picture of our bed fade start and fade end at some point we want to stop using our mesh to adjust towards the Contour of our bed that is what these fade parameters determine fade start is the value in millimeters at which we will begin to decrease the effect of the probed mesh fade end is the height in millimeters that it will terminate completely between those two points it will gradually lessen effect that is the only section we need to include for bed mesh but the important parts are right here the mesh Min and mesh Max and we're going to get into how to find those right now but not before saving and restarting your firmware now when finding the coordinates for our mesh Min and our mesh Max there is a simple way and there is a thorough way and I will show you both the simple way is actually a great way to understand the concept of what we're doing and then that thorough way just gives you an extra few percentage points when finding the maximum bounds of your probing grid now we're going to start with the simple method and like I said this helps to understand the core concept of what we're doing right here I have a top down view of my build plate and I have a diagram on the center that represents the nozzle as a white circle the yellow square is our shroud and the gray circle is to probe these items are together meant to represent the print head and the first thing we're going to do in the simple method is home our machine and your printhead should end up in a similar location to where you see it now after homing you're going to enter the coordinates x0 y0 and that will bring your printhead to the origin point it's from this point we will determine our minimum mesh value now you'll see at the origin my probe is off the bed and this would be a horrible value if I try to use this my my probe would never contact anything and my nozzle would crash into the bed it's at this point we're going to use the movement commands and move our probe over to a location that we want to start probing at in general I prefer to be 10 millimeters off the bed in each Direction but it's completely up to you once you get the probe in a location you think is a great starting point for your probing mesh you're going to find out what the probe's location is how do we do that well we need to use the nozzles location in this scenario my nozzle is located at 53 16. we get this information from the coordinate system of our front end using the nozzles location we then add to it our X and Y offsets on our BL touch in this scenario the nozzle was 5316 and my offsets were negative 42 and a half which I rounded to negative 43 and the Y was negative 6. we add those two numbers together and that will give the coordinates of our probe which is x equals 10 y equals 10. that number now becomes our mesh minimum value and that coordinate will create two barriers with a probe will have to stay in while it's creating the mesh and now we're going to find the mesh maximum coordinate to do that we need to find what the maximum bounds are or our X and Y directions in printer.cfg you can look under stepper X and position Max will tell you the maximum position it can be in and for me it was 225. now under the stepper y section look for the same heading position Max and again for me it was 225 that means my maximum position in the X and Y axes is 225 225 back on the front end of our printer we add that into our coordinate system and the printhead snaps to that location because this is the maximum bounds of my printhead I can go no further to the right or further up my probe is at its maximum point now unless I wanted to start decreasing my probing grid this is the location I need to use and to use this location we need to know the probes coordinate to get that we use the same formula we did for the minimum values we take the current position of our nozzle which is 225x 225y and then to it we add our X and Y BL touch offsets I added negative 43 As an X and negative 6 as a y that gives me the probe's position of 182 in the X and 219 in the Y that coordinate now becomes the mesh max value and together those two coordinates that we've calculated create a box that your probing points will all stay within while the BL touch is creating your bed mesh and now it's on to the more thorough method and to perform this you need to have watched the simple version because the core concept of what we did there is going to apply here the only difference for this version is we are going to personally find out what the movable bounds of our printer are with the simple version We relied upon whatever printer.cfg you copied pasted or downloaded and oftentimes those movable bounds are kept conservative so your printhead doesn't cause any damage but now we're going to increase our maximum bounds and we're going to personally find out how far our printhead can move which should give us a few extra millimeters in the X and Y Direction which translates to additional probing range we start in printer.cfg and I'm looking for the stepper X section under the heading position Max we're going to add 100 to whatever the current value is for me it's 225 so I'm going to make the value 325 and then under that we're going to add a new section position Min and we're going to make it negative 10. then find the value for position and stop and make it zero if it isn't already after this we're going to do the same exact thing to stepper y change the position Max to 100 over the value it is now then you're going to add a position minimum section if there's not one there already make it negative 10 and then find position and stop and set it to zero you can now save and restart your firmware and auto home your machine from this position we're going to go to the origin point which is 0 0 so I input that into the coordinate system and the print head moves to it now at the origin the nozzle should be over at the front left corner of the bed for this Ender three you can tell though it is not I am a little bit off in the X and the y direction using the movement controls I'm going to attempt to move the nozzle to the front left corner all of these movements are going to be in one millimeter increments and I start on the x-axis I move it one millimeter and it goes without hitting a stop however when I try to move it over another millimeter the printhead slams into the end stop that means the position prior to that negative one is the farthest point we can go so we write that down and now I start on the y-axis I start moving the bed up in a positive number until my nozzle is over the bed I'm doing this in one millimeter increments and by the six millimeter I'm at a location where I think is appropriate so now you can take note of that number and we can head back in to printer.cfg under stepper X we're going to find position and stop we're going to make this number the inverse of the value we just got for my testing I got negative one so the position and stop becomes the inverse positive one because my position and stop is in the positive I can now get rid of my position minimum I don't need them anymore then we move to stepper y position and stop becomes the inverse of the value I recorded for me that value was six so position and stop becomes the inverse negative six because our end stop is in the negative I now need to match position minimum to this number so I make position minimum negative six now I can save and I can restart my firmware and now we will find out the maximum values of the X and the Y axes in the previous step when we adjusted our minimum values we moved the origin point back to being on the bed which means we will now get a more accurate area based on our minimum and our maximum coordinates for our BL touch to probe after Auto homing I start along the x-axis my printer.cfg had 225 as the previous position Max so that's what I input to my x coordinate and I let my printhead travel there now in one millimeter increments I begin to increase the value along my x-axis we're doing this to find our maximum position and that maximum Position will be defined in one of two ways either you will hit the side of the printer you can go no further or your print head will begin to rise up because the wheels or part of the Gantry is rubbing onto the side of the printer you can still go further at that point but you do not want to if at any point this Gantry begins to lift or rise the position right before that becomes your maximum so for me with the Ender 3 I had no issue with that but I did hit a stop at 2 48 which means the value before that 247 becomes my position Max along the x-axis and now I can write down my x value and now I perform the same operation on my y-axis I input the previous position Max my printer.cfg had which was 225 my printhead travels there or in this case the bed travels there and I start increasing this access in one millimeter increments and again I'm waiting for the bed to hit a stop and now at y equals 240 my bed stops that means the position before that 239 was the max value restart your firmware Auto home your machine and now input the max values you just recorded into your coordinate system if your printhead has no problem getting to those locations congratulations those are your max values we can now open up printer.cfg under stepper X position maximum enter the value you recorded for your position Max in my case it was 247 then going to a stepper y I insert the value I recorded during our calibration under the position Max which for me was 239 save and restart your firmware so this all takes effect and we can now compute our more accurate mesh minimum and mesh maximum probing points based on my probe's location my mesh minimum point is really not going to change the only difference is going to be because we adjusted our position minimum the mesh minimum for my probe is going to be closer to my origin which means I will gain a little bit of extra room namely a single millimeter but for the mesh Max position I am going to gain a lot more than a single millimeter for the simple version we use the base configurations maximum values of 225x and 225 watt but now our measured values of 247x and 239y puts our print head a little further along the X and Y axis from that location we can now compute our probes location we take our current nozzle position of 247x and 239y and to it we add our probes X and Y offsets that gives us a position of 200 4 in the xn233 in the Y and that is now our mesh maximum Point we've added a little range as to how far our probing grid can gather data which while it may seem trivial will contribute to better adhesion better prints more accurate models which is really what we're going for once you have the correct mesh Min and mesh Max values for your bed mesh we're going to re-enter printer.cfg find the bed mesh section and then re-enter those my mesh mint stays the same as 10 in the x 10 and the Y but my mesh Max changes to our new maximum and I'm going to use the thorough version that I went over and that's a value of 204 in the X and 233 in the Y we can now save restart our firmware and begin our bed mesh calibration to start our bed mesh calibration we're first going to home all our axes and then we can go through to the tune menu where we could have actually home directions right through this button here once our axes are homed the calibrate option now becomes available to us we click that and the bed mesh profile routine begins when our bed mesh calibration is finished again under this tune menu we will see the visual representation of our bed and this is our bed mesh this is a depiction of the actual Topography of our bed and how our nozzle is going to be adjusted while it prints now we aren't quite finished we still need to save this mesh data to do that we click the save as button or again you can click the disk up here and when we do a profile name comes up you can stick with default really no need at this point to start making different profile names I hit save clip or restart its firmware and then we need to add one more thing to our start print macro I enter my printer.cfg where my start print macro is located and now right after this call to g28 home all axes I'm going to add the following line bed mesh profile and then we're going to load default because that is the name that we just saved it under we can save we can restart our firmware and now we can start our initial print our bed mesh profile will be loaded and used during this print and we're also going to do a live Z offset adjustment I'm beginning my initial print to start adjusting my Z offset live and I'll be doing all the adjustments right in this tool section here the arrow pointing up brings our nozzle away from the bed the down hour brings it closer to the bed and to the left those values are the different increments starting from the smallest adjustment to the left and the right having the largest possible adjustment the screw that's getting printed around it right now is where I'm checking for adhesion I'm rolling my finger over the outside of the skirt and I'm checking to see if it's sticking at first I'm not getting very good adhesion so I begin to lower my Z offset after a few adjustments I'm getting some proper adhesion and I will go on to make a further Z offset adjustment when the cubes begin to print the first Cube has finished Printing and I can see that I'm a little too far from the bed still I want to lower my Z offset so I make the adjustment after the second and third cubes print I like what the Z offset is at and I allow my print to finish the princess finish I adjusted my Z offset live and now I want to save that result and you can see right here this is the applied additional Z offset negative 0.085 millimeters now if I was to just restart my printer it would go away I need to save it and we can use that disk right here to do so first let's see what our current Z offset is our Z offset is 3.325 and I can find that at the bottom of my printer.cfg now we're going to save this new Z offset restart it will update our printer.cfg and now we should have a new value under our BL touch Z offset Z offset 3.410 the new Z offset has saved it has taken and now going forward it will apply this news the offset and that is how you adjust your Z offset live after your initial print is done and you save all that information you are ready to go forward your BL touch is set up give yourself a pat on the back Clipper is one step forward to being complete for you of course there's always other things you want to look at pressure Advanced input shaping there's always something to learn with 3D printers and of course there's always something to learn with Clipper firmware if you suck around this far I really thank you if you want to give a thumbs up subscribe to the channel gonna be more Clipper videos coming out of course however my next video as far as I can tell is going to be a dual Z belt video by Kevin AKA Sam I've been talking about this forever and I decided I didn't like my whole video I filmed one I just wasn't happy with it I've been dragging my feet with it and because that dual Z setup is mostly 3D printed it allows for a little personality so that's what I did this time I printed out all the pieces in some nicer color it just made the whole setup a little more enjoyable for me so I'm happy to bring that to all you folks next that's going to be a really cool video and then of course we have more Clipper videos coming up at you I have a pressure Advanced video an input shaping video which is using that USB based input shaver as well as a maximum acceleration and maximum speed video how I set up my Max Excel my max speed and of course my Max flow rate thank you all so much and until next time as always boys girls everybody else keep on printing [Music] [Applause] foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music]

Channel: PrintsLeo3D

Views: 91,856

Keywords: bl touch, cr touch, klipper, ender 3, aquila, creality, voxelab, auto bed level, mesh, warped bed, print adhesion, bltouch, beginner setup, beginner, 3d printing, 3d printer, intro, better adhesion, klipper guide

Id: 5vmjBXvY6BA

Length: 27min 54sec (1674 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 28 2022