Kitbashing A VALHALLAN ICE WARRIOR Sentinel - Astra Militarum Conversion

foreign with the release of a New Codex for the Astra militarum I thought it would be a good idea to take advantage of the new Miniatures accompanying it and revisit one of my previous projects when the death core of Krieg made their kill team debut I modified the Miniatures to represent members of the valhallen ice Warriors and I wanted to continue this theme across the new miniatures I was fortunate to receive a copy of the cadius Stan's box set from Games Workshop and within that box is the new Sentinel having not tackled all that many vehicles on this channel I thought it would be fun to try and build a valhallan sentinel the build started off by removing all the parts required to build an armored Sentinel before cleaning them up with their mold lines and tabs for the most part the assembly was done by the book the legs and cockpits were assembled following the usual instructions up until the armored cockpit and weapons were about to be attached hailing from a frozen world and being expert in cold climate Warfare it made the most sense to construct The Sentinel as its armored version however in doing this the pilots of the Walker would be obscured limiting my ability to add theming to the model so to fix this I intended to have the pilot leaning out to the top hatch the only trouble with this was that the hatch was not a separate piece and so it would need to be removed from the rest of the armor this was done by running a sharp blade along the seam between the hatch and its surrounding whilst only applying a light amount of pressure the scouring technique was slow and arduous but taking time would make this process both safer and the finished result cleaner this process was repeated until the blade made its way all the way through the plastic and the hatch had been freed from its surroundings once removed it just needed a little trimming to clean up the edge and make it a little more defined now the hatch had been removed it could be reattached in an open position however the inside of the hatch was a little too flat and featureless so a little extra detail would be added the first part of this involved some half millimeter thick plastic card which would be added to the inside of the hatch in order to create a lip the hatch was placed over the top of the plastic card and this was used to cut out a piece roughly the same size from here the plastic card was cut back steadily until it had the same shape as the hatch but was about a millimeter smaller the whole way around with this done the plastic card was glued into place creating a slight more realistic hatch following this an astral militarum handle was glued to the hatch these can be sourced from a number of different vehicle kits including the rust and the Bain blade with the hatch built the top armor panel was glued to the cockpit's frame before the hatch was fixed in place in an open position the rest of the armored cockpit was left separate for the time being as it would make attaching the pilot much easier to build the pilot the stock torso that came with the Sentinel kit was assembled after allowing the glue to dry a hole was drilled into the underside following this another hole was drilled down vertically into the Pilot's waist found within the sentinel's cockpit with both holes drilled a length of one millimeter wire was super glued into the hole in the Torso the wire was then temporarily placed into the cockpit hole so the Torso poked out of the hatch the wire was a little too long at first though but after a series of trims and comparisons the wire eventually reached the desired length with the shoulders above the hatch it was ready for a pair of arms The Sentinel Pilot's original arms weren't really suitable though as they were holding onto the controls and the arms from the new infantry sprue featured shoulder pads which would be far too bulky to wear inside the cockpit fortunately the new field Ordnance battery Crews have arms perfect for our needs a set of arms were picked out that created the appearance of the pilots leaning against the hull of the Sentinel and once they've been glued into place the Pilot's torso was removed from the Sentinel in my previous valhallen video I demonstrated how to convert the Canadian helmet into the iconic valhallen ushanka-like hat with the new Canadian kit comes a slightly different helmet but fortunately this can also be modified to make an ashanka 2. but first in order to make the small parts easier to work with a hole was drilled into the underside of the head by leaving the pin Vise in place it would make for a decent handle the helmet was first Modified by using clippers to remove the raised parts of the helmet from the sides and the back from here escalpel was used to shave both these areas and the Aquila flat for the fur lining some green stuff was used after mixing up a small amount it was then cut up into three small lumps which were placed around the face one large piece above and two slightly smaller pieces at either side but these were first pressed and spread out to form the areas of fur before using the pointed end of a sculpting tool to press into a series of shallow irregularly shaped and spaced divots after pressing in a number of these a fur tank strip began to form remember using edible Vaseline here will help to prevent the putty from sticking to the tool once this is done and the had been given sufficient time to cure the completed a Shanker hat wearing head was then glued into place on the Torso with the pilot completed I returned my attention to the Sentinel itself after attaching the armored panels of the cockpit a few sewage items were then added to the sides the first items were the simple containers that the Sentinel kit came with but in order to represent valhallan expertise in fighting green skins a few dead animal bits were added as well these orc schools were taken from the usual Citadel skull skit one was attached to the edge of the container while the other had a little damage added a bolt hole was first drilled into the cranium using a pin Vise before adding Cracks around the edge with the tip of a knife with sufficient damage added the second skull was glued next to the first to help her balance out the modifications a few additional armor panels would be added to the right side of the cockpit in order to represent this applique armor some more half millimeter plaster card was used two small sheets were cut out to match the size and shape of the right front side panels like with the hatch small adjustments and frequent comparison makes this kind of work much easier once I was happy with the look of the panels they were glued into place however they were looking a little too tacked on and didn't have that Hasty field repair look to them so to create some rough World marks I turned to my part of sprue glue for those unfamiliar with this concoction it's basically a half part of Tamiya extra thin that has been topped up with some small chunks of sprue the sprue melts into the glue creating a viscous liquid that hardens into plastic once dried this mixture was carefully painted around the edges of the armor piles removing the step and creating more of a smoother gradient once done the sprue glue was left to dry just a little bit so it wasn't quite liquid anymore but it still wasn't completely firm while still malleable a pointed sculpting tool was used to press into a series of overlapping pimpricks into the sprue glue resulting in the appearance of a rough welding bead with the armor panels complete the remaining stowage and weaponry were attached to the Sentinel the final modification came in the addition of a roll of fabric in the cold environments the valhallans operate in such material would have a multitude of uses this would be formed from yet more green stuff which was rolled into a sausage shape before being placed behind the skulls the putty was then smoothed out and flattened down a little using some rubber sculpting tools before a couple of straps were scoured in with a sharp tip the straps are formed by marking out two parallel lines and then applying a little pressure so they sagged and looked as though they were pressing into the soft material gradually more Falls and creases were added until I was left with a recognizable piece of rolled fabric once this have been cured the model was ready to be painted but first let's hear a little bit about sponsors of this video Factor we've all been there you're in the middle of a project or a game it's coming up to dinner time and you really don't want to think about cooking but you also don't want to just order fast food again well Factor has the solution for you factors no hassle prepared foods make sure you always have something nutritious on hand grab a prepared smoothie or keto shake for a quick snack or heat and eat a chef quality meal in just two minutes with no prep or cleanup necessary so you can stay focused 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back to the miniature the inspiration for the scheme came from one of night shift's recent kv2 guides and if you're a fan of creating realistic highly detailed Scale Models then I definitely recommend checking out his channel and the video that the scheme was inspired by both of which you can find links in the description below so as always the case When painting miniatures the first step is to prime a black average primer was chosen for this as it would give me a good starting point that I could take advantage of to create some areas of Shadow later on I wanted to give the Sentinel the appearance of having a worn down whitewash that had been applied over an original olive green this would be created with some of tamiya's xf58 of green for this first layer I wanted a slightly darker shade so opted to mix in a very small amount of liquitex ink specifically Prussian blue hue this dark turquoise paint was thinned out with Tamiya thinner to create a mix that could be smoothly sprayed through my airbrush with this first coat the paint was focused to the lower parts of the model effect of creating a shaded version of the later olive green with the first coat complete some olive green on its own was then sprayed over the model this time the paint was sprayed mainly from above this was so the recess areas particularly those beneath the cockpits remain dark and effectively created the illusion of Shadows while applying this paint several thin layers were applied rather than a single coat this ensured that even coverage whilst preventing the finer details from becoming obscured to continue this gradient from the darker to the lighter areas some xf57 both was mixed into the olive green this retained the same green Hue of the olive green whilst lightening and reducing the saturation at little this made it perfect to focus on the naturally lighter areas such as those on the upper facing part of the model now I wouldn't worry about spending too much time on these first few base coats quick and rough applications are all that are needed for the time being this green base coat will be covered over for the most part by the whitewash with only smaller damaged areas remaining visible even so it's still worth putting that effort into the gradients as they will still show through with the first base layers down I could think about adding the chipping effects but in order to protect the paint that had been applied so far it was important to lay down an all-over coat of varnish I chose a matte varnish for this but at this stage it's not particularly important which one you choose the chipping and wearing away of the whitewash would be facilitated by the application of some AK interactive worn effects this fluid did not require any fluid when applied to the airbrush and was sprayed across the whole model after the first coat had dried a second was applied over the top this layer would create a water-soluble barrier that would allow the next few layers of paint to be easily removed where desired the white wash would be created by applying several very thin layers of white paint over the armor however in order to create a slightly more translucent looking layer of paint a tiny amount of the earlier olive green was mixed into some of tamiya's xf2 flat white this white with a slight hint of green was then sprayed over the entirety of the Sentinel when applied to the armor it gave the impression of a less opaque layer of paint following this some pure Tamiya xf2 was sprayed onto the model like before it was heavily thinned down with Tammy thinners and I tried to keep the application blotchy and uneven this was intended to represent a rough application of whitewash in the once again this was applied over the whole Sentinel particularly Focus was applied towards the upper edges and surfaces with the whitewashing complete the next step was to remove it from the areas you'd expect wear and tear to occur their previously applied worn effects made this a very simple task by taking a damp brush and brushing it over the desired area it would loosen small Flex of the paint by dissolving the worn effects layer beneath from here a drier and more rigid brush could be used to remove the paint revealing Flex of the original olive green base coat this wear and tear would focus primarily around areas that would see movement foot traffic or battle damage around the hatches and doors for example it's entirely up to you how far you go with this but try not to go overboard the final model should still look mostly whitewashed with the damage there just to add a little flavor and detail with the whitewashing completed the whole model was given another coat of varnish this will create a barrier that would prevent the subsequent layers of paint from reactivating the water effects and preventing unintentional tripping the problem with most transfer sheets is that the markings are often white which is fine if your armor color is green but when you have a whitewashed tank they're not going to show up so to remedy this one of the transfers was carefully cut out using a scalpel making sure to file the edge of the marking as carefully as possible once the number had been cut out the surrounding area was also cut away from the sheet leaving me with a stencil this stencil was placed onto the surface of the tank and held in place with some masking tape which also served to protect the surrounding area from overspray with the stencil firmly in place a few diluted layers of demon red from the tooth and coats range was sprayed over the top after the paint had been given a chance to dry the stencil was removed revealing the marking beneath to help blend this in a little some of the thinned paint mix was applied in vertical streaks to give the impression of spray paint to run off the next area is to tackle with a few parts of the model that weren't at the actual Sentinel which mainly included the pilot and the stowage items each of these areas were tackled with a regular brush and followed a base coat mid-tone highlight process and use paints from the two Thin coats range the first details to paint were the car key areas which included the fatigues of the pilot as was the fabric roll first of all these were painted all over with a base coat of dust bowl a couple of layers were applied here just to achieve a decent coverage after this some Dragon Fang was used as a mid-tone this essentially means that those surfaces that faced upwards were covered whereas the recessed areas were untouched finally a highlight of skeleton Legion was painted onto just the edges this is the lightest paint of the three and so helps to create a greater degree of contrast against the mid-tones and the Shadows helping to add depth and volume to the model following the same steps as before the Pilot's leather areas and the orc schools were the next to be painted first with a base coat of scorched Earth followed by a mid-tone of Ancient Forest and then finally an edge highlight of wasteland Brown for the Exposed Skin of the face Barbarian Brawn was the first coat next was a mid-tone of Dwarven skin before picking out the details with some Elven skin however in order to get the appearance of a cold environment some blood angels red contrast paint was heavily diluted and laid across the Pilot's cheek and nose this subtle red tone just helped to sell the model was within a frozen climate the Fleck armor of the pilot the fur lining of the ushanka and the vehicle's Vision ports or giving a starting coat of Doom death black this was built upon with a little dungeon Stone gray but rather than applying it as a regular mid-tone across the armor it was instead used as a highlight from here the final highlight of wizard gray was applied the last area of color to block out was a ushanka's fabric this was first painted with some of tamiya's olive green for the mid-tone this was created by mixing some buff into the olive green in much the same way as we did earlier however due to a lack of sharper edges the Highlight wasn't required for this particular step with all the base coats complete the model was ready for more weathering but first everything needed yet another varnish this time around some gloss varnish was chosen gloss varnish creates a smoother surface that allows things like washers and filters to flow much more smoothly and find their way into those recessed areas as this model had been painted in a winter scheme it made the most sense to weather it with some winter streaking Grime this was applied from the pot and painted directly into the recesses and around the chipping this has a slightly greenish Hue so it essentially gives the impression that some of the white has faded or has been washed away whilst also adding a bit of grim dark Grime to the model now this is an enamel based paint so you can't just thin it with water instead you need thinners this might seem odd if you're used to acrylic paints but it does allow you to easily adjust the paint once it's been applied by using a clean brush that has been dipped in thinners you can clean up and move the pigment around until you're happy with the result following this some regular streaking Grime reviews this is much like the winter grind but has a brown Hue making it perfect for representing the buildup of oil mud and general dirt it's great for darkening down the deepest recesses even further and when diluted with thinners makes for an excellent wash over the pilot and the stowage items helping to blend them into the weathered and dirty appearance of the vehicle's armor the final weathering effect to use was rust streaks this was used much more sparingly and its use of limited to small flex and spots these patches of rust gave the impression of the areas where paint had been worn down to Bare Metal allowing rust to form up through the paint by this point the weathering had dulled down the whitewash considerably it seemed a little too dark in places so to fix this another product from AK was used washable white this seems like your regular white paint but once applied it can be readjusted with a little bit of water this makes it fantastic for blending by applying small spots of this paint around the sentinel's armor I could bring back the intensity of the white in some areas while still having enough control over the paint to retain the chipping and streaks of grime with that final layer of washable white complete the Sentinel itself was almost finished all it needed was a final coat of matte Varnish in order to seal in those last few layers of paint and remove that glossiness left behind by the earlier varnish but I wasn't quite done with the model just yet the base still needed attention and naturally the base needed to represent the snowy environment that the valhallans exceed in the first step in this was to apply some of ak's wet ground this is a thick textured paste that can be applied directly to the base in order to create the basis of a snowy climate not only does it create an excellent starting color but it also helps to add a little topography and surface variation with the ground in place the snow could be built upon it and this would be done in a series of layers the first of these would represent the snow that had melted away slightly and had Frozen Once Again leaving behind cloudy sheets of ice this effect was created by mixing up a few products from AK interactive roughly even amounts of snow sprinkles snow micro balloons and Clear Water were mixed together to create a paste the sprinkles creates the Cloudy effect the micro balloons add texture and the clear water helps create a more translucent finish without losing the viscosity this mixture was applied across the base but in a few areas in the middle were left untouched I wanted that muddy ground to still show through and give the effect of footfall or Vehicles churning up and melting the snow in some areas creating a rough path through the snow from here some clear water on its own was poured into those recesses in the muddy areas before being spread around a little into the smaller dips once dried this will give the impressions of Puddles of ice forming within the road to build up the snow along the sides of the base some of a case snow is used again this is a texture paste meaning it can be applied quite thickly in order to build up the appearance of snow piles once applied the Paste can also be blended into surrounding terrain by using a slightly damp brush this just helps to create something that looks to have formed naturally however on its own AK snow doesn't quite have that powdery snow effect so if this is something you want to create then sprinkling over some of the micro balloons whilst the paste is still wet will allow you to create a more realistic looking snow the only thing left to do now was to take a little dark brown paint and heavily thin it down with some water this extremely thin mixture could be applied to the edges of the snow piles just where they touch the muddy patches the brown paint will slightly stain the snow and make it look as though muddy water has been splashed across it as the machines and infantry have passed by with that the model was completed [Music] and here we have the finished valhallan ice Warrior armored Sentinel while the kick bashing and conversion work was fairly light on this particular model I think that's always good to show what you could achieve without breaking the bank with the exception of the orc schools and the handle this whole model can be built using spare parts from the cadius Stan's box set if you enjoyed this guide and would like to see me tackle more Astra militarum please do let me know in the comments below also leave me your suggestions for which regiments and units you'd most like to see as always I'll include all the paints used in the description along with some of my Affiliates links that you can use to help support my work now before I go let me say a big thank you to the ever wonderful patrons who keep this channel going especially my experts here and above supporters who are Jack Ewan Jonathan Hart Tim brush like a Nim Daniel Dowling Jesse Smith yoken Falk Casper limbborg Morgan Mr Grimm pale juice swedesman and the Googles if you're interested in supporting me too you can find a link to my patreon below where supporters can get ad-free access to my videos sneak peeks a private Discord Channel and exclusive merchandise plus you'll be helping me out in the process so until next time thanks for watching and goodbye [Music]

Channel: Pete The Wargamer

Views: 206,969

Keywords: Wargaming, Miniatures, Warhammer, Games Workshop, Tabletop, Tutorial, Guide, How To, warhammer 40k, warhammer conversion, imperial guard conversion, imperial guard, warhammer kitbash, astra militarum, warhammer 40000, astra militarum conversion, imperial guard tutorial, cadia stands, how to paint imperial guard cadian sentinel, valhallan ice warriors

Id: _9_-ybzCaIk

Length: 25min 36sec (1536 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 20 2022