Building My 10,000RPM, High-Compression K20

a few months ago I revealed I was going to be putting a K20 engine into my Honda S2000 shell and in that video my co-worker Ben decided to inject his unsolicited opinion about how I should build my motor yeah yeah that's a good base to start with start with the bottom end here high compression pistons in there you're going to want to type as oil pump K20 Z3 head this is the hot setup did you get some dry cartel cams in here you could probably get like 10 000 RPM 10 000 if you put itb's on here can you imagine how that would sound luckily I'm My Own man and I don't have to build my car the way that Ben wants I'm going to build this engine my way last but not least we have some Kinsler 64 millimeter icon foreign welcome to RS Motors I'm Ronnie Solomon we are building a k-series today uh this block is a k20a2 so it's a two liter block and we have a cylinder head from a Z3 it's going to be an n a build this is a street build we're trying to get this thing to rev as high as it can so we're doing itvs high compression and a short stroke 2-liter our goal is to try and make power up to 10 10 5 maybe hopefully we'll see we'll see how the head flows and the ITV supports the shorter stroke of the K20 that should be easier done than a longer stroke not that it can't be done with a K24 it's been done many times but it's easier to spin an engine with piston speed at a higher RPM with a shorter stroke high compression Pistons I believe these are 12 7 or 12 and a half off the shelf high compression Pistons these are 86 mil drop-ins signs rods for K20 also beefy rods with arp2000 bolts drag curtail zero zero three two cam this have proven to make good power we've made on our Mustang dyno here around 280 on these cams with a Stockport head and a K24 not a K20 and a set of super tech valve springs to make sure we're not floating valves and match with our dc32 cams at 10 000 RPM we have things moving really fast about the train bouncing around you know that we're going to do the upgraded Springs to make sure that we don't float the valves stronger rods same thing to kind of hold that power down and make sure they don't come apart [Music] so our first step is to get this thing completely cleaned up it just came from getting blasted so we have to wash it clean up all the threads originally this build was going to be a based out of a k283 but that engine is not known to have a high rep capability with the components it's got in it so we started with a base k282 next thing we're going to do is set it up on the resurfacer and get the deck flat and then we'll deglaze the cylinders for machine work I used to kind of send them out and have other places do it the issue comes in when you have a wait time and machine shops busy they can't address your stuff for another week or two and you're now on the list of people waiting for that machine shop so about let's say four or five years ago I bought my own machines since I was doing my own measurements anyways and started doing my own machines it became more of a One-Stop shop so I can do everything here I have control if something was to go wrong the finger points on me I just did a thou cut just to see this is too thou so it's half that paper thin is is a foul I mean this is a really good flat block already so we'll just make a another final pass and should be good when we resurface these blocks we do four points of measuring before we cut anything nothing is cut unless it's within you know two tenths Max half a thou difference between the Four Corners I want to make sure I'm only cutting the minimum amount of this block when I want to make it flat uh this block came from a 2000 two RSX that had a stretched chain that I think it skipped timing and hit the valves so the block was completely fine but the Pistons were had some valve fittings in them we're not using that so it's a perfect candidate to do what we need to do we're adding that little chamfer in there to get the a spot for the ring to sit in that's how it slides in otherwise you have sharp edges and the wing would just get caught if you try to install it in there we're measuring the piston see how much room we get for pissing the wall clearance they come with specs sheets when you get them but that doesn't tell you exactly how big it is typically these piss in the wall it's going to be probably three and a half thousand so one and a half paper thin that's what you're looking at for for oil clearance that's your exact piston size 85.94 yeah so it's not it's they're never exact they tell you what it is and then now we have to measure the block the cylinders itself to see what piston the wall we're going to come up with so now we'll deglaze that cylinder obviously it's used it's got some miles on it it's been ran how many thousands of miles in RPM you know you got a smoother wall not it's still not bad but it's it could it could get better it's gonna it's gonna rotate and move up up and down in a uniform speed so it has to cross hatch you know going up and down [Music] thank you [Music] we're pretty much assembling this engine three or four times before the final assemblies just to get all the measurements done Bolt the mains on with the bearings and measure all the the clearances between that and the crank [Music] all right right now we're torquing the block with the mains and bearings in it to mimic the block being assembled without the crank and then we'll measure all the the bores see how big we have and then measure the crank and then subtract the two to get our oil clearance so right now we're measuring the main board with the bearings in it some ACL standard bearings and the crank journals to find out what the what the difference is and our oil currents it's right now we're ending it to be around two and a half thousand I'm tightening the rod bolts at the same time I'm measuring the stretch this the stretch that it takes to get to the torque that I'm torquing it to so we're talking to 45 and our stretches between four and sixth style we're going to assemble the rods with the bearings in it measure the clearance again so it'll be it'll be a lot of time spent just measuring everything make sure everything's up to spec [Music] these are drop-in Pistons they typically get pretty good with supplying Rings typically you'd have to set this up on here Square it up lock the ring in place then you zero it out and then you start cutting number one at least it's so good we'll move on to the next one a lot of the measuring stuff you know you can kind of see like we haven't changed anything but it's when you get to that one that you have to change that's when you go okay I that's why I do this [Music] there's your stock piston aftermarket don't [Music] we have here the oil expander that's going to go on first oil rails one on top one on the bottom compression ring this is what scrapes your oil down from the sleeve back down to the bottom again and not have it come out that guy holds the power hard part is done all the measuring is done specs are done so cleaning is done so now it's just the easy part assembly [Music] foreign [Music] I think we did our math right it's working thrust washer clearance that's how much we got which is good [Music] [Music] [Music] thank you there's your first piston [Music] the short block is now finished with the upgraded Parts completely assembled we're going to move on to the cylinder head where we're going to remove the valve springs retainers seals and replace those with some upgraded parts we have and then finish it off with some upgrade cams [Music] foreign [Music] we also are adding some ARP head studs I think it's one of those things that you you're in there kind of might as well upgrade it you might be okay with the stock head studs but you don't want to get into like later on in your build and start blowing a head gasket and go should have done it like just do it now they're they're inexpensive they're strong they're known to hold so the cams are 032 cams this is more for like a street build right around 280 wheel horse on our on our Mustang here um matches uh stock ports on the head just fine probably outflow the K20 foreign we're trying to rev this thing high again so we can't use a stock oil pump they are known the cause of cavitation so we're going to go with a ported oil pump to support that rev range that we're going for K20 82 Type S oil pump this is a modified oil pump from four piston known to flow more for higher revs so it can support the oil demand for the High Rev and last but not least we have some 64 millimeter itvs from Kinsler these are beautifully ported itvs and some beautiful Runners on them for the K20 and being High Rev and itbs we're going to sacrifice some of the low end of the car but we've always kind of had that with even the F20 series revving to 9k so it shouldn't change the driving characteristic of the car but we should be capable of a lot more power with the K20 having the WBT had the main build is now complete short blocks done heads done with all the valve train upgrades on there we're just now prepping this for for transport to get finished up and be installed in the car so the rest of the stuff components wise will be installed later does this motor have your stamp of approval wrong uh yes it does um I'm pretty proud of this one everything's up to spec it should fire up and run and make make some Jam I'm hoping mid 200s we'll see what what the higher rev would do with the itvs hoping hoping for a little more but we'll see [Music] it's a weird noise I don't need I don't think I can mimic it give it your best shot just like a it's like a carburetor noise I don't know I can't hear it a stun can do it I can't do it

Channel: Gears and Gasoline

Views: 433,624

Keywords: s2000, 10000rpm, 10krpm, itb, individual throttle bodies, k20, k20a2, k20z3, gears and gasoline, s2k, honda, drag cartel, rs motors, engine build

Id: pOAoUGE0SHk

Length: 16min 13sec (973 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 14 2022