Job Shop Measuring & Metrology Tips with Mitutoyo!

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[Music] hi folks welcome to another episode of NYCC and see I have got Giroux here for mid to toyo toy I reached out and said we want to film with you and I thought that's awesome and I said you know what I want to understand basic job shop metrology metrology fancy word for measuring stuff we've spent a day here learning some really cool high-end stuff but what I want to understand is the tools that I've got to gauge blocks of micrometer is the calipers how do I use those what am i doing right what do I need to do better be conscious of I've done a good place to start is with micrometer everybody has micrometers in the shop you have several here right a couple different kinds with us one that has a friction symbol on it you know and it has a ratchet simple yep this is going to be good for repeatability now one of the best things as far as getting repeatable measurement hmm use constant force this is going to allow us to have it comes to the force for your measurement especially good if you're using a tool one handed back the resonance you reach your limit you're going to have a clutch mechanism yeah the clicker action exactly to let you know it's there yep also the ratchet fool is fantastically beautiful using the micrometer with fan like we have here I've got some older manual micrometer for analog and I they don't have the ratchet and I don't well I don't trust them I don't even use them because I want that clutch out feel exactly cool done another great thing with micrometer especially if you're measuring a larger diameter is to use what we call the pivot and swing method which is where we we open our tool get it close to the diameter sensors going to be measuring and will typically anchor the micrometer within one side I like to use is the animal size here yeah but then what we'll do is I'll get the tool close and we'll kind of pivot and spin to help me find the apex of the diameter that we're measuring as well and I can do that this way or I can do it this way along the part that's correct I prefer to do it area just because you can see the number but whatever what all are you right as far as that goes but absolutely this totally reminds me again so much what I learned on YouTube about machining was from YouTube and to guys Adam booth and Keith fender who are always doing that with the when they sweep a big part and they're kind of rotating it back and forth finding that hot spot absolutely I recognize these you recognize these are my daily my daily drivers the bread and butter yeah right so what we have here is the caliper guys and a couple things to check on that is to always be using constant force that's going to be one of your biggest factors make sure you're not exerting too much force as you're doing a measurement try to keep it nice and consistent there's three basic areas on a caliper here we have the edge of the jaws we kind of have the this middle machined area and then we have an inside groove area we want to try to stay away from using edge of the coconut as we're doing the measurement try to stay in this little machine area try to stay a little bit more towards the top of that that's going to give you a better accuracy consistency repeatability on that as well they were explaining at lunch there's a thing called Abby's wall who knew where when he measuring device like the digital scale or linear scale isn't in line with the basically the further out you go the more error you possibly introduce which is crazy to think that there could be deflection out here at the tip but that's a lot of distance and it gets thinner and I guess it makes sense absolutely also with any measuring tools a good rule of thumb is just to go ahead and make sure that the jaws your contact points are clean if we start measuring and you're just kind of try to just make sure there's no debris on it above and beyond that you know some lint-free wipes a mule or rubbing alcohol clean those contacts up also if you're not sure about your measurements a good rule of thumb is to put the jaws together and hold a light right and make sure that right here we're not getting any light coming through so it's like again these are my daily drivers they're all around the shop that's the first thing I do in the morning I open them up I do the finger swipe so you're okay with that in terms of like skin oil or whatever the light thing I'm not done that's a great tip do I need to buy you two no special chemicals needed no special assignment clapping actually always zero up the tool before using and you don't care whether I use my thumb on the plastic or on the roller here correct so constant force is in this case I don't have the benefit of the mechanical clutch it's really up to you that's correct you're going to have to develop a feel for that right cool so one of the things I know I need to do it's actually the reason we picked up this linear height gauge I need like one really good measuring tool that I can use to confirm or calibrate to the extent I need to as a job shop the other measuring tools I use I really often need to pick up one good micrometer I'm kind of guilty of not having at least one good mic and we were talking about that and when you do get a mic whether it's a high end or low end one making sure it's set correctly absolutely obviously on a euro to 1 inch mic that's very easy move the bow all the way to the N value right here when you go right what about on a larger mic obviously the two points are not going to contact another that's where most mics will come with a reference artifact such as this you can also use gauge blocks no crowds remember when you use an artifact like this not to use the nominal amount that stamped onto it uses actual certified that certify value right right Lily what's that timeout that's crazy like when it when you have gauge blocks or you have a standard that has a number on it be careful you may actually not want to pay attention to the number that's lasered on it you might actually want to get the paper sheet that's with it that has the actual calibration on it absolutely yeah that's just it then damn it that seems to see me again coming back over here I'll set up my artifact here have a set make sure I don't have it a little bit of a name right right right or a moment ago god we can use the button on the front of the micrometer actually go in and preset the tool to match whatever the actual value of the artifact is measuring got it yeah the question I guess I could use the light trick here as well because it's so important to keep it in line right in there you should be able to because of the flatness of each of the contacts right right honey we talked about in our chip break series you make it's why we have our shops are organized you make better parts when you're organized and I say that because when the right tool is right there you're more willing to use it because weren't I've been that they were all kind of lazy so the thing about the toss about this watch this one turn two turn three turns it's like a rapid pitch leadscrew so cool and it is just as accurate exactly this is the quantum Mike series until this as you mentioned it's four times faster than a regular but in the past any micrometer that you had ahead of faster speed we sacrifice something for it enjoy the address we've got it from this scenario or maintaining the accuracy about four times faster in the traveling all right I feel like no drawback other than I assume it's more expensive you know you'd be surprised it's only about twenty dollars more than there is a no-brainer standards also anybody have a quantum like I think I'm going to buy the I guess this total one to start because that's awesome I hate when I have to go from a 3/8 inch to one inch and I I usually wind up getting two Mike's because I hate moving between the two understand awesome no more having to go up and down the street I like that trick yeah that's a cool trick raise your hand if you've heard of cosign air classic example I'd heard of it I always ignore it because it sounds complicated basically and by the way click card here we actually played around with this and what it actually means but when you have your indicator presented to the reference plane of the measuring plane at an angle it's no good meaning the absolute measurement is not accurate a relative measurement would be fine so what does that mean what do we need to be conscious of well one thing we always want to try to make sure that we are set at the correct angle for the measurement so just bend the bend the stylus like that right then make sure that will parallel the surface that we're measuring now it's not the end of the world if you're all for the way you had this holding a moment ago if you have to use your test indicator and it's orientation you're not the end of the world gets me to be aware of what the cosine will do to your measures Yeah right the fun thing about this video is I get to learn stuff from them and then I get to sound smart like for instance fun fact if your indicator doesn't exactly repeat in its free State that's not actually a bad sign Mike one of the AES was explaining that when you have it come to rest it's just resting on some sort of a dead stop and that dead stop isn't really meant to be a precision indicator so most with test indicators and with regular style indicators what you care about is the repeatability when they're actually pre-loaded that's correct yeah the resting area is not always there in the measurement range got it is it okay to like even just preset can I over travel like if I do this is that hard on them pushing it just going through the full range of motion no I'm going to eat a bowl trying to exceed that range of motion you know what every toy you can kind of feel where there's a natural stop yeah especially dial indicators you don't want to try to constantly move it passes and the physical women on that because they can damage to the indicator right but when you know the general what I want to see if an indicator is good to use in the shop or if I'm looking to pick one up somewhere the first thing I do is I kind of feel to arrange make sure it's not sticking yeah on that nature absolutely cross one of the other important factors about Tess indicators how you present the part for the measurement okay so for example we have our test indicator set up here I have a round wonderful part here I'm going to move the part away from the test indicator okay we're going it into range of motion okay I'm also going to spin it away from the part as well got it why is that important well this is a nice cylinder there's no notches everything in it yeah what if there were a keyway cut it Oh and as I'm rotating it this way the only way comes around it could get caught in that indicator the other thing you're going to notice that the way we're set up and we're always staying on the ball itself yeah right of the stylus not on the shank we always want to make sure that we're contacting the ball itself and not the shake it's funny because you really pay attention because you want to be on that ball but you also want to keep it as close to parallel to the part as you can which means you're going to be closer you usually have to be on your a-game and I've noticed it too I love the Noga bases with the adjustable part here because it's easier to use these tense indicators and get your part dialed in but if you bump it going the wrong way you got to start over because you can't I don't rush the reading anymore absolutely eating up dressing the reading if you ever want to use a test indicator and maybe you feel like the movement it may be half or maybe even double what it should be a reason for that could be these styli the probe that's on the test indicator itself these are interchangeable okay not all manufacturers use the same thing but each test indicator is set for a certain length of stylus but what that means then is let's say you have a drawer full of styli and you just go to swap or energy right mouth if you get a stylus that's twice as long as your measure now because of the pivot factor right it will in effect cut your numbers in half you'll be directing to see much more travel on your dial - what you're saying is I'm thinking about the indicators that I've bought or been given by friends or just used in and I have no idea if I guess I would you have to check them absolutely some indicators such as this guy right here or even the one you're holding actually have a little indicator on a front Oh hell's out what the silent links should be it's funny this goes back to the Richard King scraping class I just took which was awesome because it kind of cut down to the foundation of not only just metrology but of doing stuff which is assume nothing check everything that expensive brand name indicator that is really responsive someone in all good intentions could have swapped out the stylus for bigger solar ball and now all of a sudden it's it's totally giving you garbage because you yeah that's funny your quality is only as good as your method of right it was fun too yesterday again in that video where we were playing with cosine air we tried to do the math ahead of time to figure out are we going to get the answer we expect so it's actually not hard to take a piece of feeler gauge and see if it's reading correctly absolutely so gauge blocks are probably the tool that I've started using the most on a regular basis over like the past year and they are so cool but there's also some interesting things you shouldn't do with them if they do not ring together then you've got a problem and if they don't ring together they also aren't going to be accurately representing what you're trying to do which is in this case putting a nine and a 950 together to give you one point eight five inches so you're showing me this you want to actually you do you were better at absolutely so gates blocks are the foundation for a lot of our measurements we mentioned earlier about calibrating you're setting your micrometer and right hand so she bit off gauge block so I want to take care of your gauge blocks you make sure that the surfaces that you're measuring are clean if you're concerned about the surfaces themselves again like we talked about with the caliper just use a 1/3 wipe okay and rubbing alcohol that's terrifying to take care of it yet nothing special off the shelf on that may these are ceramic so these will wear a lot less they'll have a lot less wear than the steel itself but you know what's nice about that is ceramic doesn't just ring to ceramic it can also ring a ceramic to a steel block as well yep doesn't that these ceramics are really cool like this is total metrology candy they don't wear as much they're not corrode they don't corrode they're really out of my price range and I was mentioning that and they said but you don't have to buy the full set if you want if you use a couple sizes a lot by those individuals right by the steel sets and you can by the ceramic interchange it goes right and they ring together with something cool so they get to the long-winded answered your question let me go ahead and I typically like to start with my gauge block perpendicular like this so I apply them together I'm not pushing very hard but I am applying a little bit of force I'm going to kind of okay her to the edge almost in a and all L shape more less yeah pull back and I'm pushing down just a little bit and I'm barely pushing but I can already feel yeah the air moving out the resistance so here's what's crazy we were playing on these yesterday and there's different amounts of rain like seriously and we don't I don't know how to explain ringing and if somebody post in the comments below if you think you can this seems to be a little bit of a mystery it's for sure legitimate because look look this is a very expensive 3 inch 3 inch ceramic gauge block and look and watch if you can like watches but now that one's try it again so let me try to get absolutely so they're pushing together - oh yeah you feel it feeling she'll pick up that there's energy yeah right yeah it increases the drag as I make more cerveteri contact it's a natural phenomenon your surface finish of your blocks has to be just right and as those are moving together and all your getting removed like magic but never store them run together never so ok never store them run together monitor that as you're storing your gauge block go ahead and break this expert tutorial will not be coming back if I drop this right now so here watch this if you hear a pop apart that's cool so two things that I learned with the gauge blocks number one go to the certification that comes with a gauge box don't trust the value on them and if they aren't rung together you cannot believe that stack height you're getting especially let's say you're checking a height gauge for example well if you're using individual blocks you're going off of the values at this time and not the actual certified value you might be okay but as you start reading those blocks together and then you're stacking up the tolerances you're going to start to notice the difference on that got to always use certified value and it's not as expensive that you would think to send out gauge box and have a calibrated oh yeah it's going to depend on where you send it okay someone the neighborhood about $5 a block okay so I can send this block to Mitchell you in Illinois and they will send me back for five dollars plus reporter shipping its certification of what it is Sir that's awesome something I've also started doing is because I'm you know a bootstrap entrepreneur and I'm a lower-end job shop guy I've got a set of gauge blocks out in the shop and then I keep a set kind of in the office which is my metrology set that doesn't get the wear and tear of fixtures in daily use really also no shoe and on that note that there are different grades okay available some for shopping some for reference okay it's important to know as well as your selecting gauge box or gauge blocks sold light gauge pins where you buy over and under or nominal or are they kind of just all supposed to be nominal they're all supposed to be nominal okay but again it's less good to have it so now just to make sure yeah and the main difference between those and the gauge pins is just you can buy them individually or you can buy them a different side set yep got it awesome these ceramics are really cool one last tip and trick calipers I use them every day that I go to try to here you can measure between the anvils that's great I really don't use these top two parts aids for measuring IV holes not a good idea we can use the depth bar the depth Clark which drew will show in a second my little trick which I don't know why nobody seems to know you've got a precision hardened ground surface between here and here so if I want to measure the distance by setting the inside part there it keeps the caliper Square to the part which is going to give me a better measurement and then I can use the roller here the knurled part to roll in you're going to get a way better measurement band width the depth bar obviously it's much bigger though absolutely not all calipers have the death bar but the ones to do as you're using that you'll want to make sure that the depth bar is straight right make sure that there's no waviness to make sure that it's not been so great s use on that obviously now as you go to use the test bar I'm going to set this up here so you see the Machine surface you know john was just mentioning is sitting on the edge of the park got Andrew that down now when you use this you want to try to keep the caliper as perpendicular mm-hmm that the face I'm sitting that's perfectly go to the surface you have the bolt sometimes you may need to rock to try to make sure that you're you know finding if there's a concave surface or something okay I find that I just be careful on that again you don't want to cause your depth bar itself to get spin right you don't want to check your measurement certainly because you're a little bigger right right it's a shorter distance and if you're off a little bit and yeah exact almost like cosine air exactly we should get that you about that what's funny because I don't really like using the depth depth mic I think probably because I only have a vernier now just be honest with you I don't have a digital depth mic so I end up using the stick a lot and it's not a good way to measure things in my opinion just yeah gonna depend a lot on your tolerantly yeah right right always keep that ten to one roll awesome tell me about that well the ten to one roll is basically the gauge that you're measuring the gauge the accuracy okay you're using for the measurement so if I don't print in times more accurate okay then the tolerance of what you're measuring this fits into one rule so if I need to hold 5,000 I need ten I need a half a thousand indicator yeah because half a thousand would be ten times under the tolerance of 5,000 correct interesting right okay not necessarily an end-all be-all but a good rule does anybody know why there's always a notch on the end of a depth bar kind of curious you know on our indicators whether it's a dial indicator communicator or test indicator the contact points are all interchangeable yep okay what that can also mean though is that the contact point itself is not secured and so that can affect a measurement obviously because you're you're having a contact point it's not security or sure to your gauge itself so another good rule of thumb is to always make sure that your your contact point whatever it is or whether using extension rod or contact tip just a different pro right always make sure that now you notice also as you as you pick that up mm-hmm a couple of our of our iOS or a test indicator Pro have different contact points yes so that's just steel and this has got the Ruby crank again it's not that one is more accurate than the other but ruby is going to wear a lot less that's why you see it drawn things such as this so I just come on round this style line see okay I lie as well yeah like our Renishaw maja has a ruby but that's getting used everyday for me I can't imagine I'm probably going to wear out well maybe I know I mean you see touch pictures that parts get splitting out multiple times every hour I can see however months or years that wear stuff if you can make no assumptions stuff wears gauge blocks where tips wear metal on metal periods another good tip I learned never thought about it don't store digital or don't store calipers or micrometer x' with the faces touching each other you know and it's funny because all of our I mean I love the mid to Tokyo mics they seem to be the go-to I always just close them and put them out not the end of the world but it's not a bad idea to just open them up just a hair in the same way a caliper actually don't leave it stored micrometer go ahead and just pull it back even just a small amount or you can see some light going there and then we you have a little locking mechanism you can go ahead and turn out locking mechanism and it's good for storage that way okay because those two places of precision grounds together and yeah we're time if you keep those stored within clothes they can start to warp or deform you should have a hard time yeah back part so let's store those a little bit of a gap in between I'm going to ask you a really beginner question your might get mad I don't like an answer you might get mad at me up so I've noticed this before as well there's a locking cam here that tightens up the spindle or the cymbal when I'm measuring a part and it's I can't read it and I kind of want to lock it in can I start to like Snug this down so it doesn't move when I pull it off give it a little more reason yeah ideally it's not designed to be as a measurement tool yeah Justin oh yeah okay all on or all yeah okay got it look good no don't do that some of the fun stuff today folks has been seeing what other products is out there because again when you don't work in a big factory or a big machine shop you don't always know like for instance I didn't know about these Noga bases with the adjustable base until like a year ago where were they another really cool thing that's probably not that expensive you guys have seen it these no matter how you're holding these precision measuring tools human interaction will cause them to bumper and bounce around look at this are you kidding me how cool is that like it's so cool absolutely excellent it's a little plain there's different lifting mechanisms this is one of a back three that we have yeah you can actually have this lifting cable that we have here you can also get a attachment here a little lever that you can insert the kind down a bar rate that you can get a different cab for you can pull the indicator epigram or the simplest way it's a little plastic add-on that goes on to the chassis and the carriage can just you know raise and lower a little handle on that but things like you could put an Arduino on that and they've got this wireless add-on that dumps the values into Excel so you could build like your own poor man's statistical process control machine that loads a part in something plunger down dumps the data into Excel and moves on like how cool would that be a little USB for you ever yeah absolutely you know one thing this kind of seems like a common-sense thing but it's not look good to mention and I like the way you worded it yesterday when he said with all your measurements don't be heavy-handed yeah right obviously so as you're taking your measurement you don't have to try to you man clamp them right in that's not going to help your numbers then also especially holds true with let's say a high gear right right if you can have you hand in on your high case as you're lowering the stylus down onto the park if you're not going slowly paying attention what you're doing it can actually start to race if you look okay yeah off of the surface it's funny this is this one is up pretty nice and heavy and tall but we use a lot of their little six and 12 inch guys and it doesn't take a ton to to roll roll it over or like when we're measuring at or apart its cantilever at all you can start I mean you're trying to measure thousands are better doesn't take a lot to in some it would be a little deceiving because when you feel you know how heavy-duty yeah there's Nvidia what do you feel how heavy due to the high cages or the casting on the tool sometimes it can be a little deceiving you think while it's so rugged and well it is it is still a precision measuring instrument right well it has to be treated with respect accordingly yeah the last one this may be the coolest one yet I never thought of this until the Richard King scraping class gravity it is happening it is real want to see something crazy this is that parallel that I made at the the Richard Kings draping class we have an indicator held securely with a no-go base there's nothing else involved here than gravity watch how much is it moving quite a bit this is what we saw now there's nothing else factoring here other than the fact that the effect of gravity sagging down on this whole linkage system and when I first saw this I thought that's crazy and then it hit me for years I have done things like swept in boring bar holders on a lathe doing this with this thing held out frankly even worse than this and I had never one thought that when I'm at the upside down position gravity is pulling that indicator down holy cow pretty well area with that folks I hope you enjoyed hope you learned something I want to thank Victoria for coming out bringing some pretty cool stuff and hopefully learning if you guys want to see more let me know like this is this stuff is so fascinating to me and sometimes it's what you don't know my first time I ever realized how big a deal metrology was was when I toured Tom Lipton's shop in Berkley and Tom's channel there's a guy robber and zeti who has done some amazing videos as well on metrology stuff it is really really cool thank you folks hope you enjoyed take care see you soon [Music] [Music]
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Channel: NYC CNC
Views: 139,394
Rating: 4.9007773 out of 5
Keywords: tormach, fusion 360, how to, cnc, machine shop, nyc cnc, DIY, machining, milling, cnc machining, cnc milling, mitutoyo, metrology, dial indicator, caliper, micrometer, gage block
Id: LZtN0OKi9Os
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 25min 2sec (1502 seconds)
Published: Sun Feb 26 2017
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