It's a Baby StuG! Building The Panzerkleinzerstorer Rutscher | Das Werk 1/35

what's up mates it's uncle night shift again and it seems like Christmas is around the corner so although it's completely unrelated but tonight we're gonna build the pants off line okay so let's take a look at the ingredients for this project the first and most important is obviously the kit which is made by amusing hobby and repacked by dust Burke because the amusing hobby kit was a limited edition I was lucky enough to get this kit for free but normally it costs about 20 euros then we have some photo-etched details from Voyager and I just had to get these because they include metal fenders and other cool details and they're also pretty cheap on eBay and last but not least I bought the set of metal tracks on a full model I decided to go with the so called final pattern with metal cleats instead of rubber pads as it fits the late-war theme of this model these tracks were quite expensive and I got them from eBay as well now let me tell you spending almost 60 euros on the small model sounds like an absolutely insane idea but here we are so let's take a look at what's inside the box and you'll quickly see why I bought all these aftermarket bling fenders are okay but they're quite thick which could be solved by sanding them but you can't replicate dents on plastic as well as on metal parts and also the anti slip pattern is much finer here some details will need extra TLC but let's take a look at the upper hull the engine deck is supposed to be bolted which is replicated here that's okay but for some reason you can see a weld bead around it so I will have to address this because I tend to be quite fussy about such things the tracks seem okay mostly but my main problem is with these longer segments which lack the individual link detail it should be mostly hidden under the road wheels but I didn't want to take any chances so I got myself a bunch of these bad voice so anyway let's start by not following the instructions and focused on assembling the hall a little bit of magic and boom okay there are quite a few issues which I often observe on other kids as well and that's when the individual armor plates don't connect like they should in real life this means we need to fill and rescrub them but let's take it one step at a time first we must destroy a few details like bolts and weld lines but don't worry we'll make them look even better later then we can send each panel so everything sits flush it's important to be careful and not distort their shape while sanding now we can fill every unwanted gap using my favorite tie me a basic braid buddy while the putty was drying I decided to build up the side armor extensions because they don't match the thickness of the plate they're okay at the back of the vehicle but here they are almost paper thin well get back to this right after we're done sanding the body which should be already dry if you applied in thin layers you'll be able to send it smooth in about ten or fifteen minutes now we can cut those plastic cards to our desired shape here it's also important to give the cement enough time to evaporate because otherwise the plastic will be like melted cheese at this point I decided to address those panel lines at the top of the vehicle I fill them all with Tamiya epoxy putty that's the one I use for ball beats which we'll make in this video as well but now I'm using it to fill the panel lines then while the body was still soft I pressed in a new line which is a thinner and thus more in scale and B doesn't have that weld bead detail at the bottom if I ever need to use this method again I'll let the putty dry first and then use a scribing tool and a straight edge because this result is a little irregular in some places but I hope it won't be too evident and of course after it dried I removed the excess with a B blade and polished everything so it'll be nice and smooth my next task was writing each armor plate it was fairly easy in most places and more difficult in others but what I wanted to talk about is this section as you can see the weld line goes like this but the side extension down here means it should go like this and that wouldn't make any sense unless there's some kind of intersection let me just show you let's place it somewhere above the fender now it can follow down this line and then continue here now it actually makes sense because interlocking armor plates were common thing on German tanks however I didn't add a weld bead on this edge but instead I rounded it with a sanding sponge to make it look like a single armor plate which was bent something like on a king tiger turret then I just ruled out the gun optics and the model is now ready for the fun stuff aka adding armor textures and weld beads as usual I started with the armor texture and if you'd like to learn more about it then consider yourself lucky because I made a detailed tutorial about this technique which you can watch if you click the link on your screen or you'll find it in the description down below the only difference to my standard approach is that I made sure to apply a very light coat of putty and I also sanded it quite a lot so it left just a very faint texture here and there after all this is supposed to be a light tank made from thin armor plates now I wanted to take a break from texturing so I cleaned up the running gear this was super easy and fast and it was a nice change to not suffer during this process you might notice that I didn't add any damage to the rubber parts and well that's because after looking up quite a few photos of different 251 running gears and even rusty all the relics this for restoration I haven't seen a single road wheel with damaged rubber and I found it to be a pretty curious little detail and I was also lazy the suspension swinging arms are extremely loose so I had to fix them in place with glue and while they were still movable I lined them with a straight edge I also decided to make the suspension sits a little deeper in its travel to give the tank a more tired look okay back to texturing I continued by adding the flame cut marks and again I describe this in striking detail in that tutorial I mentioned before and again the only difference is that this time I get them quite faint as those armor plates are more delicate now I mix the small blob of Tommy epoxy putty rolled it into a very thin noodle and started welding I also have a very detailed tutorial about this technique so check it out if you're not familiar with it light Armour usually means weld beads are also not massive so yeah it's important to roll the body into a very thin noodle and press it firmly into the groove then I textured them with my homemade welding tool and I also describe this process in that video I mentioned and this is your standard single bevel weld bead but I also did something new and that something is a so-called multiple paths weld and for this I have made a simple tool from a piece of sprue which I sanded into basically into sharp screwdriver and I used that to punch multiple random lines along the weld bead I'll explain this method in more detail in the future when I build a more suitable model for it but anyway the model is now textured and welded and oh boy it's quite a difference from how it looked at the beginning but it also took about eight hours so yeah it might not be for everyone anyway I had some issues with the wheels they fit very loosely and their alignment is all over the place there's also quite a lot of them so I wanted to solve both problems with one solution this time I was inspired by a fellow you tuber by anbu and his tiger one where he glued the wheels together for easier painting so I did exactly that first with liquid cement which allowed me to align them and then with superglue a lot of super glue to make sure they'll stay in place and won't fall apart later and oh the only difference is that I decided to keep those three outer wheels removable so I can get behind them more easily while painting and weathering and also the entire alignment thing happens on the inner wheels so it's not an issue but yeah now they are held firmly in place are easily removed from the suspension are perfectly straight now I wanted to have some fun with the tracks they are tiny and each link is made from two parts these need to be glued together using super glue but they fit together like Lego blocks and the assembly is quite easy and straightforward and before you know it you have an entire army of track links I usually don't use the provided brass wire because it's hard to cut instead I prefer copper wire which you can cut easily with a hobby blade and here's why I always make a simple jig from a few pieces of plastic card which I used to cut or rather chop lengths of wire which are the exact length I need thanks to this the wire doesn't protrude out of the assembled track links which is often the only visible downside of thrill model tracks compared to let's say master club it wala one evening and the tracks are assembled unfortunately they don't fit around the kids brackets so we have to use the metal ones provided with the tracks these are however too wide and don't align with the road wheels this means we have to remove a significant amount of material from the inside but luckily white metal is very soft and it can be done in no time the metal sprockets are a bit wobbly but all super glue them in place once the model is painted over all these tracks are a huge improvement also the track tension is just right and I'm very happy with them next I decided to make a few details which I destroyed previously mainly these huge bolts which were slightly distorted in the kit and I also made these crude blocks or something which were inspired by a head sir and I think they were used to restrict the movement of the gun I guess next I attached this fender braces and I made extra sure they were all aligned because again they had a slightly wobbly fit and now it's time to solder those metal fenders these are overall very pleasant to work with they are easy to remove easy to clean up easy to bend and have quite simple shapes soldering them was also surprisingly simple and enjoyable and I origionally wanted to make this segment into a separate video but then I wasn't confident about the results mainly the quality of the footage so yeah maybe next time but overall I think the footage shows the process clearly enough and I didn't make any accidental hiccups the only slightly difficult thing is to keep the soldering clean while attaching the tread plates and the braces because it would be hard to clean those parts later but the best thing about metal fenders is battle damage here it's vital to have the inner side of the fender firmly held in a bending tool we need to have this site completely straight because otherwise we wouldn't be able to attach the fender to the model properly and holding it like this will ensure it will stay straight you might also notice there's something wrong with my pliers i superglued pieces of plastic inside their jaws so I won't damage the outer lip of the fender after washing each fender in soapy water it's time to attach them to the model first it's important to line them properly and here we can take our time and bend the braces as well so they'll fit the damaged outer portion of the fender when everything fits as it should use a lot of super glue to hold everything firmly in place don't be shy it won't be visible and it'll most likely be covered in mud later so better be safe now then sorry later when the model is painted and it starts falling apart oh yeah now it's time to attach the other details like engine rails and here I'm using my favorite black super glue to both hold them in place and fill any gaps between them and the hull and this is it the super glue everyone keeps asking about the manufacturer is a French company Amex bond when it was fully cured I removed the excess with the bounder this process looks almost like removing excess wash with enamel thinner but anyway this is the D pounder amusing it's the only one I found to be working as it should so far and it's made in czech republic by mr. dosuk if you're interested just search dosuk d bounder and hopefully you'll find a store that could send them to your location anyway the back plate doesn't have many details and most of them are easy to assemble the only modification was to drill out the exhaust by because these walls were overly thick okay I wasn't totally enthusiastic about the ball detail on the top of the vehicle so I decided to enhance it a little bit first I made each hole slightly deeper but just barely not too much and then I dug out my old set of photo etched bolt heads which are unfortunately the frost types but I think it's better than nothing and I place them into each hole I believe this improved the overall surface detail a lot I also wanted to make the surface more interesting by adding grab handles on those few hatches that aren't there so I use the grab handle bending tool from our bee tools then cut them to length carefully measured and drilled out their holes and I used a piece of styrene as a spacer to make sure every handle will be the same height the lifting hooks on the sides of the hollow were made from a thicker wire bent over a toothpick this time I had to cut them to the same length and I also bent them slightly outward in my photo etch bending tool then I added a few bolt beads around smaller parts like the mounts for the ventilator and periscopes the final details were too small and hard to film but the first detail was the headlight which I made from a spare part from a dragon kit combined with a resin base which came from the voyager photo edge set for this model and a photo etched mounting plate and the electric wire was made from a wire I also salvaged a few engineering tools from our I field models Tiger one and combine them with photo edged clamps and mounting hardware which was in the voyager set basically they give you the clamps but you need to find the tool somewhere else or use them empty that's like up to you the final and last detail was to make a few bolts from a piece of tin foil this is the trick which I already demonstrated in my kV 220 - to restoration video and I used them to add some extra detail on fenders and that's pretty much it my mates I think it's a pretty interesting little tank hunter and although the kit itself is a bit simplified and rough around the edges with some photo etch metal tracks and TLC you can build it into a there I say unique model painting it will be quite interesting because I haven't done a German camouflage in more than a decade so yeah make sure you won't miss the next episode and if you enjoyed this video let me know by giving it a like and leaving a comment and if you're interested in some extra content consider joining these guys over at my patreon page you'll be able to message me directly you also get early videos and almost daily blog style updates from every model I work on and Wow I mean as I'm recording this we have just hit 40,000 subscribers and I I don't even know what to say when I started this channel ten months ago I was hoping to reach 1,000 in the year and yeah I think it's just insane I mean you guys are absolutely amazing and sincerely from the bottom of my heart thank you and hey it seems like we have Christmas in four days huh that's interesting so Merry Christmas guys I wish you tons of models but most importantly peaceful holidays spent with your families and loved ones thank you all for watching and I'll see you mates in the next one Cheers

Channel: Night Shift

Views: 225,435

Rating: 4.9617591 out of 5

Keywords: scale model, tank, plastic model, model kit, tank model, tutorial, how to, model building, martin kovac, night shift, scale model techniques, scale model tips, scale model detail, art, superdetail, craft, modelism, modellismo, modellbau, das werk, amusing hobby, rutscher, e-5, panzer, zerstorer, german, 1/35, friulmodel, photo etch

Id: 2LzmUVHNZFg

Length: 18min 44sec (1124 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 20 2019