A Scale Model.... Restoration??? | Old KV-220-2 Rebuild | 1/72 PST

I'm converting this channel from scale modeling to restoration yeah just kidding but yeah this video will be equal parts restoration and scale modeling because tonight I'm trying to save this poor little kV to 20 - 2 from PST in 172nd scale this video is gonna be the first part where we tackle the construction and then we'll do some painting in the upcoming videos [Music] hey guys what's up so as you know I decided to spend some more time working on less demanding projects and this is another one of them this video will be slightly longer than usual so if you want to grab some drink or a snack now's your time I guess you'd like to hear the full story behind this model so here this one of my friends gave this model to me several years ago he just built it and is sprayed with what I presume is some humbrol dark green enamel paint or something and he's an aircraft modeler and this was his first and last tank and he also built it many many many years ago so this model is pretty old it even has dust on it which is actually pretty disgusting okay better now I'm not gonna be overly critical towards my friend he was less experienced when he tackled this kid and thanks are not his main focus so it's all understandable but let's just say this kid isn't the best choice for your first tank ever it's an old PST 170 second scale model which should already raise enough red flags and the kid has 158 parts and all of them are like the movie the nun because none of them are good anyway as you'd expect from someone's first time building a tank with link and length plastic tracks which are terrible by the way my friend ran into some home issues the grey spot is where he placed a tarp in order to hide the gap but it was made from aluminum foil and I removed it a long time ago when it was actually it was actually when I first received the model from him yeah I think I would also have similar problems if I ever attempted to put together tracks that are this bad but I don't think it's anything tragic I mean sure they look really bad but I know it can be saving mother fix which unfortunately I won't do in this video but later on what a cool way to start a video right talking about something I'm not gonna do especially something that looks so awful anyway there was a tarp here as well there were some tow cables which were made from plastic and one of them was actually broken the running gear is okay I guess except it's full of flash and none of the return rollers are actually round so yeah that's interesting the headlight which he by the way drilled out iceberg there but it was barely holding in place so I removed it he also added some missing world beads on the turret these are clearly made from stretched sprue this I honestly have no idea what this is and this is a kid feature by the way I mean it's obviously an armored cross section with flame cut marks but it actually looks like insulation foam so cool machine guns they look like they came from some Japanese tank but hey my friends ruled them out so nice box handles who exhausts ok I guess the air intakes have no mesh detail but what would you expect from an old kit the towing eyelids were glued in wrong position because they would obviously never hang like this and there are a lot more smaller issues but I'll address them as I progress with this restoration overall on a scale from zero to five where three point six is not great not terrible I'd give this model 2 point 6 more terrible than great let's now try and make it a four point six more great than terrible starting with the turret the flames the open hatch was barely holding in place and I will definitely break it sooner or later by accident so I broke it on purpose there's a lot of unwanted texture under the paint I don't know what this is but I'll have to sand it it was first done with a sanding stick which I used for more brutal steps and then finished off with a polishing sponge the mantlet cover is overly thick and it ain't even oval as it should be so i sended it as well this took care of both problems but I'll get back to this detail a bit later now I decided to remove those weld beads made from stretched sprue they didn't look great in some places so instead of trying to fix them I thought it will be easier to make new ones I wasn't able to send the ugly cross-sections flush so I had to fill them with body seems like instead of fixing stuff we're just creating more damage at this point but there has to be expected the side vision ports are completely out of scale and make this model look more like a toy so I fill them as well but this time with two part epoxy putty why you asked so I could punch in a new more accurate vision port I'll obviously have to send all of this so let's remove those few surface details as well after adding both bodies dry overnight I could now send everything down in situations like this you have to be careful and make sure not to distort the shape of the turret and bow now I could scribe in new panel lines between each armor plate scribing into dry Tommy a body is more difficult because it's brittle and it's easy to chip it away because of that I was very careful and didn't put any pressure on my scribing tools those tools were the razor saw which I'm using right now and then Tommy a scribing tool which has a wider blade and it's great for enlarging panel lines and then I cleaned up each line with a few passes of mr. cement s unfortunately the turret roof is too short as it should hang over the front plate like this it could have been an easy fix if the model wasn't already assembled but this will I'll just have to leave it as it is I also removed the ugly machine gun barrel and cleaned up the rest unfortunately the spherical gun cover doesn't have a correct shape but I'll just add a few details and just leave it but first let's do some other stuff flame cut marks are great little details that can enhance any armor model especially a heavy tank they are an efficient way to make your models look heavy and this technique works for both large and small scales I've already made a detailed tutorial about this or leave a link in the description and it should be also in the top right corner on your screen with all the cuts done I brush small amount of liquid cement over them in order to create a nice smooth surface I had to be careful on those parts covered with buddy because too much cement will start dissolving it now I went back to the gun mantlet cover and carefully scraped of the plastic from the inside to make it look thinner this is a super efficient method if you want to make oversized plastic parts to look like sheet metal I think the comparison speaks for itself most if not all kv-1 tanks had these extra armored plates next to their gun cheeks they were missing in the kit and I don't know if that was intentional or not but I thought it'll be a nice little detail to add so I quickly cut them from plastic card and glued them in place now I was finally able to add some light armor texture you have to be more restrained when working on small scale models especially in a case like this because these are rolled steel plates which were much smoother than steel castings again I have a detailed tutorial on this technique and it's actually the same video where I explain the flame cut marks link in the description now I needed to make those missing details on the sides so I took a 0.6 millimeter drill bit inserted it into the pin vise from the opposite side making sure only small piece was sticking out got a piece of rubber and tinfoil and punched out tiny metal rivets I learned this technique from Darren Thompson thanks man I really appreciate it you are an absolute genius then using my favorite black super glue I fixed them in place black super glue is great because you can see it so you know if you're doing a messy job or not and it's also very easy to clean with the bounder which is another one of my favorite modeling tools it dissolves super glue yeah Captain Obvious this piece is actually a pistol port block but it looks like a large rivet so the technique was the same I did the same thing on the main periscopes and I also drilled out their optics they were just bland pieces of plastic so even though these details are simplified it's at least better than nothing I also decided to fix the hatch in a closed position the roof armor is overly thick so there's no point in showing that and I made sure to glue it from the inside in order to keep everything clean the machine gun ball was detailed using photos from a walk round by the way I highly recommend googling walk-arounds for each model you're building it's always good to know how the real thing looks up close and you can often find so many interesting detail which can make your model look better and also more accurate not to mention more details equals more interesting paint job the machine gun barrel was cut from a hypodermic needle and yeah it isn't the most faithful representation of the real thing but it's the best I could find at the moment I think the difference is again quite noticeable and now I finally started adding the missing world beads I also have a very detailed tutorial on this and again you'll find a link in the description or you can just click the tab in the top right corner this by the way the first time I'm adding welds made from epoxy putty on a small-scale model I always use stretched Peru before but I'm not a fan of that technique because it can get quite messy so it was good to realize that two-part body can produce nice results even in smaller scales then I just added a few missing details made from 0.2 millimeter copper wire and the turret was finished just like that the hull was pretty much the same thing but there was a lot more to be done so just like before I started by sanding any imperfections in the old paint and then polishing the surface with sanding sponges I think it's important to mention that many people would decide to strip the paint down using specific chemicals like paint remover or brake fluid but this model is painted in a thin and relatively smooth layer of paint so there was just no need to go the extra mile then I remove those ugly details and also the spare track I wanted to add it to the other side but then I found much better use for it you'll see while I was trying to remove the thick buildup of superglue with a chisel a piece of track just fell off ok so it was better to play it safe and avoid any more brute force which means I had to remove the old super glue with the bounder there was also some minor damage in those places so I quickly filled them with Tamiya buddy and then gave them another round of sanding and polishing the ball machine gun was also removed and here you can see that I removed the head light and the horn and also fix that area with body but this wasn't exactly necessary as you'll see later there is the type of project when you just keep coming up with new ideas as you move along now I added the flame cut texture to every armored cross section on the hull obviously I had to remove the paint first and this was done by simply scraping it off with the same hobby blade is amusing now if you saw my armor texture tutorial or even my type 5 cheery build video then you probably noticed how I'm deviating from my usual order of techniques that's because when you're trying to fix a model such as this one you'll suddenly have so many tasks in front of you and you can I don't know get confused I guess and just like you saw before one moment I'm polishing the surface the next I'm chopping off a machine gun it's all over the place I know but it's a lot of fun after you create flame cuts you often see excess plastic hanging over the side of the blade this is the type of effect we don't want but it's easily removed by gently scraping it off normally I would now apply liquid cement on top of them but in this case I had to first create the world beads now this is quite an interesting situation the kid already comes with these pre-molded straight lines on the upper hull which are supposed to replicate weld beads but they are just straight smooth lines so I added lots of tightly packed perpendicular cuts which will represent the weld bead texture this is the same technique as the stretched sprue method the only difference is that I don't need to use the thread sprue because it's technically already there this is just the first path though now I apply the generous amount of liquid cement over the flame cuts and on the weld bead this will make the effects smoother and the plastic more workable which is very important with the plastic partially melted I gave the weld bead another pass with the blade it's now much easier to carve in the final texture of the weld line I was careful not to accidentally damage the finished flame cut texture which would be very easy considering the plastic is still somewhat soft at this point the other one on the left side is already done by the way in now one more pass with liquid cement it's a pretty simple technique but another huge fan I just feel like the epoxy putty method creates a better result it in this case it was easier than risk riding the weld lines and creating new ones I should have removed those sewing eyelets earlier but I was lazy to do so because I never enjoyed this kind of plastic surgery razor saw is a very handy tool for this and many other tasks so if you don't have one yourself I highly recommend it what I did next with the eyelids was hard to film because honestly they're hard to even see but essentially I removed most of the paint scraped off the mold lines and also the axle caps which should be round circles but they were anything but that now I decided to scratch-build some extra armor at this point I'm totally jumping from one thing to another but like I said earlier sometimes you just have to go with your creative flow I never liked this type of additional side armor on KB tanks I think it looks goofy the other type which is like a metal 2x4 yeah it actually looks like a wooden 2x4 but it's not wooden of course anyway yeah I like that one but these combs or whatever are they is supposed to be I just don't like them yet I still decided to make those specifically because they totally fit this tank and yes I'm totally creating some artistic license here this tank was supposedly made as a single piece in Leningrad and if you've seen some tanks fighting around Leningrad you know they've built some weird stuff they're too long didn't read or more like too long skipped forward several times bulky additional armor fits the theme of this model and it fits it so much I also suddenly decided to scratch-build the front plate as well this one was quite complicated but I actually managed to cut it from a single piece of styrene on my first try later on I decided to add even more extra armor but we'll get to that in the I know I didn't make the additional armor on the glacis plate because I was just so lazy I didn't feel like doing that yeah I'm sorry but it's what it is it was now when I realized I can't avoid this anymore so I manned up and dealt with the stowage box handles made by my friends or at least I try to deal with them or to man up because I mean dude I don't know what you use to glue them in place but it has to be some serious high quality because they were impossible to tear off feeling absolutely the fee that I pushed as much of what remained as I could inside sanded the rest as much as possible and then I just buried everything under a pile of bubby I've never seen anything like this but I'll have to talk with my friend because I need that super glue now I had to make new handles and I actually tried to make them look more accurate of course they're simplified and I'm not gonna say that it's the best that can be done in this scale I was just lazy or more accurately totally mentally drained from those old handles which had to be made from stellini more something I also wanted to rip each box so I could make an illusion of the box lid but unfortunately their sides were hardly accessible and I didn't want to try to break them from the fenders maybe next time I'm kidding there won't be any next time time to make some metal details this one was so simple it took less than a minute to make and that includes been digging into curved shape using my blade handle this is the deflector deflector I don't know that thing on the back these were usually bent in every possible direction and details like this can add more texture and also some delicacy to all rise chunky tank models and they also contrast nicely with those fake armored plates now like I said I initially wanted to add some details to the spare track and use it like a spare track but then I got a better idea first I had to make it one link shorter for this purpose I didn't need to do a clean job although my bootleg dremel tool did surprisingly well and now I was able to fit it between the gap in the tracks so now I don't need to cover it with a tarp just with some mud later ah so in the end I used the kit provided spare track to fix the main track just like the crew would do in real life if this didn't totally blow your mind then I don't know then I figured it was time to add some subtle Armour texture to those curved back armor plates and it was at this point that I realized I have to get real and start working systematically so what I'm gonna do is to work my way from the back of the hull towards the front the next glaring issue were the exhausts here I already fixed somewhat fixed the left one and what I did was to make the opening a little larger and more symmetrical although it should have a square shape but whatever I had to work with what I had and then I arounded the edges as best as I could then I covered them both with the light layer of diluted body not essentially to add texture but rather to give them a cleaner look not great not terrible okay now this is where I really ran out of options these large boxes are air intakes and there should be a huge mesh there but unfortunately I don't have anything that I could use to replicate that I don't know there were only two options either I could pretend like I don't know there are just some boxes just model bro or I could do at least something about it well I chose the ladder and the best thing I came up with was to make some sort of stand off sheet metal protection against shrapnel grenades or Molotov cocktails I know Russians never used anything even remotely similar to this but there were a few examples on German armor especially on King tigers and Panthers and besides this thing is essentially a Leningrad urban legend so it's not even a wave but rather why not anyway it looks more steampunk than Soviet but I'm sure some paint will change that I don't know it looks interesting I think although I'm not sure if it was good anyway moving on there are two missing fuel cap covers under the turret so I made them very simplified mind you by bunching two millimeter circles from plastic sheet now I decided to add more additional armor and again this was common on later versions of kV tanks because the turret ring was very vulnerable so this addition is 100% inspired by the real thing I would like to mention that gluing plastic to a painted surface is interesting and there was also one more filler cap which I know this later okay I think the armor kit looks pretty sick that is until we attach the turret which obscures everything anyway moving on the antenna mount cover was a solid piece of plastic so I had to drill it out with several drill bits each one being larger than the previous one until the sides of the tube were paper-thin I actually managed to make them so thin I was even able to add a small dent you know Battle Damage then I drilled out a small opening all the way through and added a piece of brass rod which will serve as an antenna mount the antenna will be added after the model is completely painted because for now it will just get in the way the bow machine gun was detailed the same way as the ones on the turret nothing new to see here then I drilled another hole up here because that's were both cables for the headlight and the horn come from it is an interesting detail they're actually protected by a steel tube so this wire doesn't represent the cable by the two I decided not to use the kid headlight or the horn and instead I just added the electric junction and their mounts made from copper sheets there are a few photos showing kv-1 things with the missing so why not you know it adds character I guess and now I could finally add all the missing weld beads on the hull and then I glued the towing eyelets back in place because I cut them off earlier they now had a pretty loose fit so I had to fix them with superglue the reason why I'm only adding them now is so I could easily add the world beads that are behind them and I also added new axle caps made using the punch and die tool the very last detail was a tarp I normally wouldn't go for it because if you were even slightly familiar with my work you probably noticed I almost never add stowage or tarps I just don't like painting them and I'm not very good at it as a result so I just avoid them if I can but here I had a damaged section of the fender and it was in such a tight place that I wasn't able to feel and sand it so a tarp was the only logical solution you know you can always hide your terrible mistakes with mud in tarps and yeah I almost forgot so I made the start from the same time here a two-part body which I used to make the world beats I rolled it into a thin piece then cut it into a square shape and now it's just about folding it and trying to make it look as interesting as possible this is a small piece of advice when you're adding tarps to your models always try to make as many faults as possible so they don't look totally flat more faults means more details and it will be also easier to paint the top if it's more detailed in this case I'm even using some offcuts to add more details in the app right now the tarp is quite flimsy but when it's alhadeff eyes it will hold as if it were glued in place or at least it should I mean so far it always did I don't know and honestly I'm too lazy to stand up and go check but anyway that's the last thing I did on this model so set for tonight restoring or rebuilding an old model is more satisfying than you think even though the result might not be as perfect as if you were building a first new kit there's still something that feels I don't know rewarding you know when you just pick a model that would otherwise end in the trash bin and just do your best but at the same time you're not making a fuss about it and you're just having fun I don't know but it feels good so let me know if you did something similar as well and if it was worth the effort and if you actually made it all the way to the end of this video say strong tank in the comments to confuse everyone who just clicked through and didn't watch the whole thing the next part will be obviously about painting and spoiler alert this tank will have winter camouflage the hype is real right anyway I hope you found this video helpful or at least interesting to watch and if you did please leave me a like because it helps me a lot the more feedback this video gets the more YouTube promotes it to fresh new eyes and also subscribe if you haven't yet because I keep posting videos like this all the time so if you liked this one you won't miss the upcoming ones thank you all for watching I'll see you mates in the next one and here are some bloopers what I did next with the eyelids was hard to film because ha honnestly but I but I was scare the nature I wasn't able I al obviously have to send all of these solet's I'll obviously I love it there's still something that feels very very safaried always so far it always did so far you always after it after letting both buddies there

Channel: Night Shift

Views: 110,600

Rating: 4.9760318 out of 5

Keywords: scale model, tank, plastic model, model kit, tank model, tutorial, how to, model building, martin kovac, night shift, scale model techniques, scale model tips, scale model detail, art, superdetail, craft, modelism, modellismo, modellbau, fine molds, war thunder, world of tanks, wot, 1:72, 1/72, KV-1, KV-2, KV-220, heavy tank, restoration, rebuild, diy, 2019, miniature

Id: JU28YC6K7hU

Length: 27min 20sec (1640 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 11 2019