Building a Captured Type 5 Chi-Ri Prototype (Fine Molds 1/35)

whoa okay okay I know I've been bombarding you with tutorials for a few weeks now but this video means it's time to start a new series so sit back relax and watch me build this type 5 cheery from fine molds [Music] there's quite a lot of stuff to do so let's not waste any time and jump straight to it I started with the turret sides they have excellent fit but actually needed the gap between them and the roof because I wanted to add a weld seam there so I scraped away some plastic from the inner side with a hobbit knife now I have a nice gap then I made new fenders from copper sheet and if you haven't seen that video click right here and go check it out when those were done I could safely remove the original plastic ones I usually try to remove as much as possible with rotary tool and then take care of the rest with sanding sticks sanding it by hand can take some time but the result is very precise the remaining paper-thin pieces were sliced off and the edges smoothened out the exact same process happened at the front I didn't make any metal replacements for these because in my reference photo the tank was missing them there are actually several photos of this tank taken in various stages of decay and in some defenders are intact the others throw them heavily damaged but most show them completely gone those fenders were actually the only connection between the upper hull and the transmission cover so to prevent and the accidents down the way I just disconnected them I wanted the drivers vision port open but there was a small catch the plastic around it is way too thin and it doesn't match the actual Armour thickness so I had to make it beefier I found some one millimeter styrene sheet leftovers and glued them around the opening from the inside with a slight overhang when the glue dried I carefully sliced off the overhanging parts Dave ensures they'll sit flush with the original part and when that was done I covered the part with a few light layers of diluted Tamiya body to make it look nice then I focused on the turret shell I added the obligatory steel texture using once again Tamiya buddy then some flame cut marks and finished it off with new weld seams sculpted from epoxy putty I have very detailed tutorials about those techniques and if you want to see them click here again or click the links in the description of this video now it was time to start adding the third details there's not a lot of them but there requires some extra effort these armored antenna mount requires some light filling when it comes to complicated shapes like this I usually resort to once again brush up light buddy filling stuff this way creates also a nice steel texture and it doesn't have to be sanded is actually quite easy being an armor modeler the small side hatches have beautiful interior detail and some reference photos show this vehicle with them in open position unfortunately the hinges are molded in a way that only allows you to glue them in a closed position that's a bummer they also miss some detail an axle should be visible in these places and it's a small detail that can make a big difference luckily it's an easy fix I punched out the excellents using RP tools punch and dices and carefully glued them in place you have to be careful and check several times if all four of them are aligned in a straight line I always add details like this to all of my builds they're easy to make they improve the over quality of the finished model and they are painting techniques like washes that make them pop out once the model is finished in order to leave the machine gun ball mount empty I had to enlarge the gun opening this means drilling it out and then adjusting the hole into an oval shape with sharp blades the result looks pretty much exactly like the real thing from reference photos commander's cupola is built from two farts and is missing texture although in real life it was a single piece steel casting once again this problem was fixed by stippling larger amounts of diluted body onto the part when dry the body creates a nice irregular texture but most importantly fills the annoying gap time for some grab handles those were made from 0.5 millimeter copper wire bent in surgical forceps I have the original grab handle bending tool from RP tools but it usually doesn't have the required dimensions so I always end up with a ghetto solution like in this case so I opened up the location holes on the crew hatches place the handle adjust at its height and fixed it with black super glue once dry I cleaned up the excess with the Bhandar this way I ended up with a nice and clean part I was too lazy to make a new handle on this hatch so I just scraped off some plastic from the bottom to make it look more three-dimensional hopefully it will look good once it has some washes applied if you want to see how that goes then you should definitely subscribe and hit the bell icon so you don't miss it once I glued the hatches in place there was a small issue with their hinges all of them had these overly large gaps that look very unrealistic I tried to fix that again using 0.5 millimeter plastic circles made with punch and I tool to fill in the empty space and I also added missing axle detail from the outside same thing happened on the Coppola it's kind of weird but it is what it is so although I'm not a huge fan of clear periscopes I decided to give him a try on this model they are positioned in a way that makes applying masking tape super easy so I did just that right before gluing the Coppola to the turret once painted I'll just remove the tape from the inside and we'll see how it went then I started working on the missing gun mount I first added pieces of styrene to build up the missing segments of the turret then I obviously had to fill the inevitable gaps and I actually used a lot of putty because I just hate it when I feel and sand something just to realize I need to feel it again because there's still a small gap I'm pretty sure all of us know that feeling I use the metal file because it has nice sharp edges that allowed me to send away any excess putty from those tight corners I know there are dedicated high-quality sanding sticks for that sort of thing but I'm from Eastern Europe we don't have money for such capitalist toys and to finish this part off I covered it with a layer of diluted Tamiya paddy this created a very nice texture but most importantly even if I'd aspired with the rest of the turret now I used the original gun mount to mark the missing poles I first marked them on the outside Clarke's then transferred the drawing on the inside each hole was first punched in with a sharp needle which will serve as a guide for drill bit ensuring it won't dance all over the surface and then I carefully drilled the holes out with I think one millimeter drill I was very careful and took my time because I didn't want to damage the part it's also very important to keep the hole centered I guess it wouldn't look very convincing if their alignment was all over the place if you're doing stuff like this don't forget to clean up any flash created by the drilling process both the real tank had that huge hole covered up with something it's quite hard to see what it is because there's only one overexposed photo showing this part but I think it might be fabric or metal metal makes more sense to me so I went with that I used my trusty copper sheet because it's thin easy to cut easy to bend and it looks nice the gun shield mounting holes are not covered by this part so I suppose it was welded to the turret but I don't really have any proof of this so it's up for everyone's interpretation the photo also shows two smaller pieces in the center again I have no clue what those are they could be fabric covers in case the part was actually made from fabric or just some unrelated part which were welded to the metal sheet before it was used on the tank one important thing here even though this is clearly a field made part and it probably wasn't of high quality it doesn't mean it's okay to scratch build it with haste when modelers tried to replicate hastily made stuff on their models with equally hasty approach you don't always turns out looking real bad so I strongly recommend to take your time while making and painting field modifications on your models that also includes cleaning our byxis superglue with the bounder as you're seeing right now to finish off the turret I added weld seams to every detail that was welded on the real thing and when that was done the turret was completed and I could turn my focus on the next big part the hull I started with the suspension because it's important to keep the geometry of the running gear straight what I did here was drive with the swing arm and then glue these smaller parts to the hull once the glue was dried the swing garments were still moveable and you'll see why this is important in a moment now for the most dreadful part of any built wheels those need to be cleaned up the usual way we all know very well remove the sprue remnants with a sharp hobby knife then clean the seam line I'm using a carpenter sanding sponge because it's flexible and therefore will trace the round shape of the wheel and then I also clean the wheel with an old toothbrush because I don't really like working with parts covered in dust and here's the result I mean the difference another common practice is to add some damage to rubber parts I like to use a very cheap steel chisel from a dollar store because it might be blunt but it's strong so I can easily tear out pieces of plastic from the wheel rim it creates a very narrowly result exactly how it should look once all the wheels were done I Drive fitted them together no glue this time because I like to disassemble the running gear for painting this next ever requires a little faster approach I first glued the swing arms to the hull the upcoming steps need to be done while the glue is still soft so the suspension can be moved I Drive it at the buggies without any glue so they can be again removed later to ensure the running gear sits completely flat the model has to be put on a smooth and straight surface and weighed down with something heavy after a few hours the swinging arms are firmly glued in place and it's safe to disassemble the running gear which is now perfectly straight let's continue with the back plate the real tank was missing sections of exhaust pipes and these internal parts are the only remaining thing they are as usual out of scale so I had to fix this first I started by drilling them out with a remarkably large drill bit luckily I found the size that's just right for this a lot of care was needed here because it's easy to destroy the part if you accidentally start drilling sideways or if you apply too much pressure then I cleaned up the plastic burrs and also things down the outside edge with a sharp plate when that was done I polished the surface with small amount of plastic cement and then brush on some diluted Tamiya buddy to fill any small imperfections the real tank had all the securing bolts missing so it was time to slice those off and drill out the empty holes this is small but important detail if you're building an abandoned or otherwise neglected vehicle good inspiration for these our museum tanks which almost always have some bolt missing grab handles were once again made from copper wire and attached it the same way like I demonstrated on the turret hatches I also made this handle broken just like on the real thing it's another nice detail if you ask me and as usual now hinges were also detailed with 0.5 millimeter circles punch from 0.2 millimeter plastic sheets one will be surprised how much work is needed to build some dump engine doors but then again the result is well worth the effort there are some mounting hardware on the upper engine plates the brackets are represented in thick plastic which doesn't look too realistic so I removed those and build new ones from copper sheet I admit those are slightly less detailed but at least they're in scale and not overly thick what I did was to cut those from copper sheets round the edges with the file and then I added those small bolts and also wing nuts the exhaust is built from 12 parts but there are no unexpected hiccups I just filled any gas with diluted body these also created some fine texture which will work in conjunction with rust stones but you should be careful with this heavily textured exhaust aren't very realistic valve kit provided jig makes life easy when bending the protective mesh screen but you don't have enough leverage to bend the part into the exact shape I hope this won't be the case because I wanted to have this part removal for her painting but unfortunately I just had to fix it permanently and again following the reference photo I added some damage and created some sack the secondary gun is made from one piece so I just had to send the seam line then polish the part and drill out the muzzle using a hobby plate these bolts are deformed and have more of an oval shape so I removed them and then added new ones made the same way like in all those previous cases by now you should know me pretty well and know that I love fixtures so it's obvious I had to add some here as well then I glued the entire part to the hollow while keeping the gun workable thanks to this I can decide if I want to keep the gun in elevated or depressed position later I'm gonna paint the drivers vision block separately so for now I just attached it to the model with a piece of blue tack fenders which were the first thing I did on this model where the last part to attach I simply added liberal amounts of superglue and then pressed them hard against the model quite easy just make sure to keep their geometry in line with this last detail then I added a few tiny weld seams to all these surface details and focused on the last most horrendous task tracks they are absolutely horrible and take forever to assemble I mean they look beautiful but their assembly is a nightmare just watch this first you have to remove the links from the sprue while making sure you won't damage them because they're quite delicate keep in mind each link consists of two parts now that you have them removed you need to clean up the excess plastic the easiest way of doing this is to again use scissors or snippers or whatever you prefer and cut off as much as you can then you switch to a hobby blade and slice off what's left that's fairly easy on the inner parts but the outer parts needs to be put on a table and the remnants chopped off now you must remove two pin marks on each link I found that the middle file works best for this and gets the job done relatively fast I also don't forget to clean them up so you don't work with complete mess yeah I think the difference is quite obvious now you have to assemble the first link note how I'm adding glue to every contact point and also using it to smoothen out those sanded parts everything after the first link is the same process you add the lower part then the upper one those will lock in the connecting pins on the first link and then add glue don't add glue between the two links because you'll glue them together which will render them unworkable so imagine being all cautious the entire time sounds fun right when you have a small segment done let's say ten links there are still these holes they need to be drilled out all the way through and I actually did that on the first 40 links or so but then I gave up because it was taking forever and my hand was starting to hurt so instead I just partially drilled them out from both sides just to make them deeper I also realized they'd be most likely filled up with earth on the real vehicle so at least I have a good enough excuse well at least the result is quite rewarding as you'll get a nice workable track by the way we will wait just stop for a moment close your eyes relax and do the math with me think all of the steps needed to get one link done now realize you need a hundred links for one track now realize you need to assemble two tracks can you imagine how much time goes into that I can actually tell you I divided each track into ten segments to make my life easier so ten segments consisting of ten links my fastest time assembling those ten links was no let me check yeah 28 minutes 44 seconds half an hour for one tenth of the track let us sink in for a moment well it seemed almost impossible but we here we have them both tracks are done but before I can temporarily attach them to the model there's one final modification left the kit instructions are telling you to remove the connecting pins from the last link and just I don't know leave it like that or something if I did that the track couldn't be fully assembled so I just drilled out the final link and connected it using a piece of wire which can be easily removed at any point assembly of the running gear went something like this I wrapped the tracks around idler wheels then dry fitted them in place then I did the same thing with the drive sprocket and then I could attach the suspension buggies and the return rollers and because I didn't use any glue here I can just as easily disassembled into running gear prior to painting but that's a story for the next episode let's now adorn the finished model I'm honestly surprised how big this model is I knew it was gonna be big but not this big overall it's a very nice kit and it gets bonus points for allowing us to build the vehicle captured by Americans quite easily thanks to those segmented exhaust pipes there are some details that weren't quite thought-out all the way just like those hatches that can't be open but have beautiful interior detail at the same time and the most jarring thing by far is you create a super simple Tamiya like model which can be built over a weekend and you pair it with tracks that will take an average model or more than a week to assemble that's like the only thing that really annoyed me but the construction is now finished and you know what's gonna happen next I'll give you a small hint I'll be painting this model in Japanese parched grass color and I'll be also trying some custom-made airbrush stencils designed by yours truly I think that doesn't sound too bad so make sure you'll drop by the next week also make sure to check out my Instagram where you'll find some nice photos of this specific model thank you all for watching and I'll see you mates in the next one and now some bloopers if you're clear if you're if you are hearing keep if you're curious curious so she packs this ensure this ensures this ensure this ensures they'll this ensures they'll sit there aren't that there aren't that there are not that many these armored and I always add detail I always add details like I always were when try the putty creates a nice Araku irregular when dry the body creates a nice irregular texture by boot when dry hope hopefully hey I tried to fix that again using tightly kind bide five by five millimeter I tried to fix that again using point five millimeter copper wire I started with the suspension because it's important to keep the G to the gym I like to use a very cheap I there are there are there are there there as usual it creates a ver it creates a very very rough

Channel: Night Shift

Views: 173,844

Rating: 4.9509821 out of 5

Keywords: scale model, tank, plastic model, model kit, tank model, tutorial, how to, model building, martin kovac, night shift, scale model techniques, scale model tips, scale model detail, art, superdetail, craft, modelism, modellismo, miniatura, modellbau, fine molds, japanese tank, war thunder, world of tanks

Id: f728wcPL5rA

Length: 21min 13sec (1273 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 05 2019