It’s frickin’ RATS! Paint easy, awesome grimdark Skaven

[Music] deep dark twist turn scaven Scurry scaven churn dwell deep down nor nest in world's wound what see we are scaven Bor sprung from the horn rats hate howl we swarm come come I will show tell in scaven blight's boil belly power pulse Greek growl schem is dream Oh Come clan war weave death deal kill kill all dead things look see rodkin rise rise rodkin Servants of Decay take steal things that should be ours one day soon soon surface scum scav and Reckoning doomday fear flee simple skins all will die die that day die die for the Great Horn rat hi there my name's Guy you're watching midwinter Minis and if you've been snooping and peeping where you shouldn't have been you might have seen that Warhammer scaven faction are getting some new models now I'm not going to ruin anyone's fun and show spoilers here but basically that's big news for all you diard Clan rats out there or anyone who's been wanting to pick up a new Army for the old world or age of Sigma I mean not before time most of the scaven models in the range are almost old enough to vote anyway I thought this would be a good time to show you one of the easiest low skill methods of painting a dark dirty grimey style of miniature that still gives you a really stylish understated look to your finished models to show you how to do it and how fast it is to get a little army painted up in one go I'm going to be painting this entire scaven pestl and start collecting box so 20 little plague monks and two big war machines the screaming Bell and the warp lightning Cannon the only subassemblies here are keeping the little ratty drivers off the cannon for the time being to make it easier to paint now before you stick any models down to their bases this is a great place to hit the pause button and do one of the simplest coolest looking basing methods for Fantasy minis simple card flagstones I've been doing this on all my hero Quest Minis and it works amazingly to Nar ly immerse them in the dungeon crawling Vibe of the game and it's so so easy to do simply snip up some card into strips however wide you want them to be and then cut those strips into vaguely Square chunks you don't want to use card that's too thick really just serial box card will do spread a little PVA or wood glue on the bases and then use the tip of a hobby knife just to poke the little card slabs down and drop them in place don't worry about going over the edges as we can snip off the excess once it's dried you can leave some areas bare as well if you like once all the card slabs are in place I just dipped each base into a little tub of filler powder to make it look like scale model grout and then left them overnight to set on the bigger bases I applied some texture paint to the bare areas to make it look like rough Earth between broken Pathways and then I just used some regular super glue to attach each rat infantry model to its base or to a little plastic cup for the models that will end up riding the lightning Cannon these will be easy enough to snap off later so that's the prep out the way now we're ready to get some paint on the models and it's time for a bit of an uncomfortable confession for years basically since I started midwinter minis back in 2018 I've been using plastic primer spray paints from Halford's a big UK automotive and bike accessory chain the results were pretty good and the paint was cheap but it's not 2018 anymore and price Rises have really caught up these 500 mil can used to be $6.99 when I first started the channel and now they're $1.99 so I've started using sprays from the color Forge instead they're basically the same price the same quantity of paint but are specifically formulated for miniature painting and there are dozens of colors to choose from loads of them that match Citadel paints too which is a nice touch and from what I've seen so far they all seem to dry with a really nice high quality matte finish as well now these little ratty dudes lurk in warhammers tunnels mines and sewers so in my mind bright clean and bold colors are just a nogo to thematically and aesthetically sell these minis so I'm going to Prime them with this trench brown paint which is a pretty bangon match for citadel's ban Blade Brown FYI the exact Brown doesn't really matter but Brown in general is a really magic color to use in miniature painting as it's more tonally interesting than black or gray but neutral enough to work with pretty much every color now for the tricky task of choosing a good color for the rat's skin a quick look through my admittedly pretty expansive collection ction yielded no good matches so I decided to mix this White Knuckle flesh from TT combat with citadel's full Grim pink Jesus look at this gross chunky mess after a few minutes of breaking down the chunks yeah that's a pretty serviceable ratty flesh tone now it's just a case of Base coating the exposed hands feet faces eyes and ears and Tails now I wonder do you know any standard miniature paint colors that work out of the pot to get this pinky rat skin tone I'm totally drawing a blank please let me know in the comments next up after the skin I'm going to use a light gray this Shale Gray from TT combat and base coat the flagstones on the bases the skin of old ratti Modo on the screaming Bell as well as the Stone Arch too I laid this on quite thin to make sure it got in all the recesses so a second coat of this was a must next up quite a bright metal color this ancient steel should do the trick to paint all the weapons on the Infantry as well as the metal brackets and trim on the vehicles now I'm intentionally using brighter colors here rather than anything too dark because we've got a secret step coming up that will really Gro things up so we don't want everything to be too dark from the GetGo also don't worry too much about accidentally getting any of the previous colors on the brown undercoat we can just fix up any mistakes later when you're painting a whole Army worrying about every teeny tiny detail will really diminish the fun at least it does for me now I think we can all agree it would be a crime against humanity to paint a big Warhammer Bell anything other than a gorgeous bronze and what a bronze this is third place bronze from TT combat 10 out of 10 on the naming there well done again the brown base coat here is really supportive of the bronze layer on top and any difficult to reach spots that don't get hit with the bronze will still look good in the finished model next up a really rich red paint for any of the accent fabric stuff like the big banner the rats rope belts and the wraps around the wooden frames on the war machines also hobby PSA empty start collecting boxes apparently make really good dog pillows okay getting to the end of the base coating stage we'll now use a very pale off-white like this Phantom Ivory to base coat all of the paper elements and also the random horns popping out of the robes now once you're happy with that at this point we can just go back to our original brown or any brown that's close enough to the primer you used and just start tidying up any edges that were a bit messy uh oh wait almost forgot I'm going to make the magic fire and warpstone bits of vibrant green but that'll be right at the end so for now I'll just base coat these areas with a nice neutral green as a placeholder now that the basic base coat colors are all laid down I'm going to use the same bright off-white I used to base coat the parchment and the horns to dry brush some texture on the wood elements and the robes too this might look a bit bright and Dusty just now but we've got some really grimy steps coming up so it'll knock that back down again don't worry at the moment we've got the wood and the robes the same color which is a bit boring so an easy way of changing the color of the wood is just to add a glaze or a wash to shift the tone so I pred some Lolly sticks the same brown as the models dry brushed them with the off-white and then tested out a few brown and green washes to see what would contrast the robes nicely and yeah you know what canop tech alloy looks really nice let's go for that not sure why I wrote cryp Tech and not canop Tech but honestly who cares slop that on the wooden it's obviously way easier to apply something like this than worrying about the coverage of a whole new brown base color now if you want to add some freehand scaven runes to your flags and spell books this is the time also freehanding this stuff is super easy because these ratty dudes are supposed to scratch out their glyphs in a really rough way so just go nuts for the parchment runes and script I used one of my favorite hobby secret weapons the fabled Sharpie twin tip one end is the standard tip Sharpie that we all know and love but the other other end is a fine nib perfect for adding permanent small control markings to your minis I just use some online reference images to know what to draw but I also used some Arcane knowledge I acquired in the mid90s for this one so this is how we're looking so far ready for the wash stage but instead of just using my cheeky dip wash or a metric ton of NL oil or agrax earthshade instead we're going to be using this streaking Grime from AK now disclaimer this isn't your typical acrylic water mixable water cleanable paint this is what's known as enamel paint and to clean your brush off after you've used this you're going to need mineral spirits or white Spirit but honestly don't let that put you off that stuff is incredibly cheap at your local hardware store but absolutely open your windows and wear a mask that covers your mouth and nose when you use this the fumes are pretty intense now what I'm going to do is simply apply the streaking Grime all over every area of every model I'm using an airbrush for Speed but you don't need one you can brush it on to get the exact same results this is really the definition of trust the process huh it was pretty scary absolutely coating these models in brown Gunk basically reing them after spending hours doing lovely neat base coats but after all the models have had about an hour or so the paint should be dry to the touch it's not dry not by any means the stuff takes about a day or two days to dry and set fully but at this point about an hour after application it's the perfect time to start wiping the grime away the easiest way I found of doing this especially on small minis with lots of hard to reach spots is by soaking the tip of earbuds in some of the white Spirit pressing out the excess liquid so it's not too wet and then gently wiping the surface of the models because of the earbud shape it won't go down into the recesses and hard to reach spots so all of those bits will remain nice and grimy but the easy to reach areas on the surface will wipe clean just leaving a little tint behind unifying all the colors in one simple simple process a lot of people in the hobby call this stuff Grim dark in a bottle and for good reason it has this kind of subtle grungy yet quite smooth and beautifully artistic quality about it imparting way more of a cool look than it should considering the amount of effort or rather the lack of effort it takes now after you're done wiping away the grime it took me about a dozen earbuds to get to this point I spent a few minutes pulling off any of the fibers the earbuds Left Behind caught on all the spikes and pointy bits and then I left them overnight for the pain to cure a little bit longer now if you're doing this too don't forget to give your brushes a thorough clean in spirits as well before you leave them the next day your Grime will be more or less set certainly dry enough to add more paint layers on top so first up I'm going to get that warpstone nice and vibrant I gave the big bits a quick blast of basic green again with my airbrush and then I added progressively more yellow into that adding smaller and smaller Puffs from the airbrush and then switching to my paint brush to add more int intentional brushed on Parts like the runes on the Stone Arch until I was basically just adding teeny tiny bits of pure yellow onto the sharpest areas of the warp stone or the pointiest licks of the magic flame I then used a little touch of supernova Chrome a really bright silver to just add little Taps and nicks to the blades of the weapons and to some areas of the trim on the vehicle just to make it look like the areas of the metal that have been bashed and used wouldn't be quite as dirty as the rest now I'm going to keep the highlights to a bare minimum here but I did mix Phantom ivory and Shale gray together to create a highlight color for the two characters on the screaming Bell just a little touch on the horns of this dude on top and some skin highlights on rtim Modo focusing on the top facing areas the big muscles just to give him a little lift and to make him a discernably different tone to the Stone Arch after that the eyes all got a Fresh coat of black paint I didn't want this to be muddied down with the grime steps so I applied this afterwards and then it's just a case of painting the Basse rims instead of Basic Black I thought it might be a fun way to introduce a bit more color by choosing a really really deep dark green yeah that's really [Music] [Music] nice and here they are some exceptionally dingy w Ed realistically toned rats ready to wreak some particularly chaotic havoc in your games of age of Sigma or the old world as I've hopefully shown you can pretty easily achieve this Grim dark look on your own army with almost no super skilled or accurate brushwork just some basic base coating and using some really great hobby products to give you the best advantage and while they obviously have a more cinematic gritty color palette than the standard over-the-top contrast slightly cartoonish look will Hammer armies usually have they still look awesome together as an army now you can obviously shape the main tone of these models quite a lot by choosing a different base color for your primer and as I said color Forge have got a couple dozen to choose from so if you want something brighter or more colorful there's plenty of choice there now disclaimer I just want to Clearly say I haven't been sponsored by the color Forge for this video or anything I'm just genuinely enjoying the product as a hobbyist but if you want to try out some for yourself I've left a little affiliate Link in the video descript destion that will support the channel without any additional cost to you which is awesome because YouTube on its own at the moment pays really really badly for painting tutorials and it's only thanks to the amazing generosity and kind support of our audience people like you who decided to actively support midwinter Minis on patreon that we can actually make useful videos like this for everyone else who maybe can't afford to directly support content creators but who find enjoyment entertainment positivity maybe a sense of belonging and Community from what we create so a special thank you to 10f from TV Spencer thod Thomas sa boy her suet Jodi bear George Sten thy and Thomas Nichols who signed up since our last video if you want to join our patreon you can from just two could a month and by doing so you get a shout out when you sign up access to our Discord server a peek at some behind the-scenes stuff and the chance to shape our videos and big builds with polls now if you fancy doing that you are bloody awesome the link is in the description and also just being honest I'm not really a Warhammer fantasy kind of person I'm much more a 40K dude so rather than just have these rats tucked away forever in a draw in my studio I'm going to put them on Ebay link in the description if you want them free worldwide shipping and that's it thank you so so much for watching and I'll catch you next time bye for [Music] now [Music] [Music]

Channel: Midwinter Minis

Views: 76,684

Keywords: skaven, painting skaven, streaking grime

Id: qYwLhmQ1zKs

Length: 16min 14sec (974 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 11 2024