Installing a roof top attic fan

hello this is Jeff cheetahmen jet fan man this is an installation I had the opportunity to do during the year 2013 during the summer and I was able to do this installation here just the roof top part of it in under six minutes I just wanted you to have a little confidence about how long it takes and that's really not a big deal to do this installation up on the roof so I've already found the center there's a nail there in the middle and I held my tape at 8 inches described a 8 inch circle around that nail in the center between the two rafters these rafters are 14.5 inches apart between the rafters so it's 16 inches on center leaves 14 and a half between them as I come by the rafter they're on the side right about there I'll hold the saw at a 45 degree angle so I don't cut deeply into the rafter maybe just make the corner off the Raptor and so the opening is 16 inches in diameter total and I just narrow it on the sides so now I'll start clearing the nails out from underneath the shingles flashing on the Jeff and 727 is 24 inches by 24 inches so I just need to make sure there's about six inches clear to the side and above at that opening not below it I don't do anything because the flashing is going to lay over the shingles at the bottom that way the water just runs right on the jet fan has 40 thousands thick aluminum so it will never rust and blow off crows there's heavy screens about birds and squirrels there's stainless steel bolts so you don't get any rust streaking down your roof and what people really like about the jet fan is it's quieter so you don't have to listen to the awful grinding humming noise that comes from foreign motors so just cheap inexpensive to runs jet fan only takes about 25 cents for it to run 12 hours whereas the cheap motors they'll take about 50 cents so although the jet fan costs more over time it pays you back just know what it saves on the electric bill and of course you know what's it worth to be able to sleep at night that's best attic fan wider flashing so it won't leak not like this shooting arrow flashing cheer only have three inches of coverage here sticks and leaves get in here they get jammed up right here because the shingles were too tight to the water ran horizontally not so much there but over here you can see it left the stain over here the water kind of went horizontally so it's important to leave a space here along the side especially if you get one of these cheap attic vents got a real narrow flashing on it sometimes these fans will run as late as 10:00 or 11:00 at night and you don't want to hear that awful sound no I'm trimming the sides here a little bit beyond the 16 inch circle the reason I'll do that is because I mean I need to leave a little bit of a channel for water to get out I don't do it around the top I just do it around the sides so I'm finishing that trim some of it so the shingles will touch the stack of the fan at the top but there'll be a little bit of space between the shingles besides it's very important to do that to make sure that if there's any sticks or leaves or just I don't know you know stuff that blows around in the air where to get in into that groove when you're single stack you know the vertical stack that comes up off flashing sometimes it can damn up and cause water to flow sighs this is why it's important to have a wider flashing Jets and does hole 24 inches it's not the 22 inches I could cheaper advance okay so I'm fitting the stand up underneath the shingles at the top and I want the shingles to touch at the top of the stack so that it'll minimize any sticks or leaves junk getting in there and then if anything does get in there the wider channels on the side let it flow out putting a nail in at the bottom kind of inside from the vertical position of the edges of the stack so it doesn't get a lot of water flow there right by the nails I will cause those nails it's shortly that right now I'm just nailing up underneath the shingles from the nail try to cover as many nail heads as possible I'll be putting crazy silicon caulk on the nail heads and underneath the shingles that I've separated because especially at all the rust that that tar adhesive that they used a rivet on the shingles to hold them down and win once it's separated it may not seal again not seal down so I'll use a little bit of silicone under the shingles not so much for sealing because it doesn't really need to be sealed but what it does need to do is not blow off so I'll use some shingles under well just on those nail heads because they are exposed to the weather and great thing about silicon just stay soft it sticks really well to those that aluminum in those nail heads okay so here I'm just talking the side a little bit just in case there's a real strong wind from the southwest there we don't want any wind to blow up underneath that flashing there that have to be a really strong wind but dump it happen so let's stalk that and basically what I'm doing here is just making sure that these shingles don't get blown off just make sure they're stuck down good as far as leaking that's not really the point we're not trying to make it airtight just because we've already established that you know water flows downhill right so if the top of the flashing is underneath the shingles and the bottom of the flashing is over the shingles the whole fam it's like one big shame water runs right off so I'm just making sure that the shingle smoke law I like using silicon because if I ever did need to remove this fan I actually could the silicone will separate and I could get that fan back out of there and you know if I had to so I kind of like if it's not real gooey and sticky and you know impossible to deal with like it's like nice and water shield or like you know rotor plastic roofing cement just showing here how the shingles are cut back shorter on sides while water get through and after at the top you leave it tight so stuff doesn't get in and then it should go down the sides but let the gap between the shingles of the stack get wider and wider coming up from the bottom here to the wide gap on the side kind of a tight gap on the top so nothing gets in for our sticks and leaves that would impede water from getting out coming down the other side starts with a narrow gap and opens lighter and wider but leaves and sticks flow out bottom and I'm just showing my work here how I made the bottom of the shingle parallel bottom up and I should have left a little more metal exposed to the weather there that's kind of the minimum about five inches is perfect here so you have one full course of metal exposed to the weather at the bottom here so I'm just cocking the nail heads here one thing to keep in mind of course never cocked the bottom and the flashing underneath it let water get out so just cocking the sides here just to stop a wind from blowing you know rain there's a real strong wind might flow rain up sideways under there so I'm cocking the shingles to make sure wind does not blow them up or off one thing about the silicone you have to really press it down while it's still soft before it starts to harden it's like there is a delay on the job and some of this card already starting to set up a little bit and so you got to press it down make sure space-like down tight you

Channel: Jeff Tideman

Views: 432,872

Keywords: Attic Fan Installation, yt:stretch=16:9, yt:quality=high

Id: iE7d4kZHQUQ

Length: 10min 30sec (630 seconds)

Published: Sun May 11 2014