Hyperlapse Dolly Zoom Tutorial, NO MORE WARP STABILIZER - AR/tutorials

[Music] what's up youtube got a great tutorial for you today i'm going to show you how i stabilize a hyperlapse and then i'm also going to show you how to do this dolly zoom effect as well now i should say this is going to work best on shots where you've got a clear point of interest so if you're going up towards an object or if you're orbiting around it that's what you need for this to work all right let's do this okay so i've got the final composition loaded up in after effects so first things first let me show you the original footage that i started with so i've got all the photos that i took in lightroom here for you to see the way that i shoot these things is i always use raw photos there's a couple of reasons for that the first reason is that you need the resolution the more resolution you get the better because that just means you can zoom in more and you're going to get more clarity when you start doing the dolly zoom effect and the second reason is just for the dynamic range and the detail that you're going to get using raw photos rather than video i'm not going to talk too much about actually shooting these photos but what i did is i used the camera viewfinder graphic to line up a spot on the bridge each time try and keep that in the center i think what i've used is this little contraption kind of hanging under the bridge platform itself and then i just take a step forward each time try and keep on a straight line moving slowly close to it it's not perfect you can see obviously it bumps around and it wobbles quite a lot but that is why we're going to stabilize it so once i've done my little color corrections what i would do is i would export all of these photos out of lightroom as jpegs and then i bring these jpegs into after effects so let me show you how to do that you're going to double click on your project panel over here and then you're going to go to where you've saved your jpegs from lightroom select any one of the photos it doesn't matter which one make sure the create composition and import jpeg sequence are ticked and you can hit okay so what this is going to do is it's going to stitch your photos together into a video and it's going to make a new composition which is exactly the right size and shape for them so let me play this through so without any stabilization you can see that it's super bumpy it's super jumpy looks horrible so when i was shooting this i was doing it handheld i had cars coming at me there were loads of other tourists loads of people taking photos because it's such a popular spot but we can totally stabilize this so let me show you the secret sauce now what a lot of people would do in this situation is they would come down here at the bottom right and they would put on warp stabilizer so let me do that i'm going to throw on warp stabilize it's going to take a little bit of time to analyze because this is quite a large high resolution image you can see with warp stabilizer it's done a reasonable job it's fairly stable it's definitely more stable than it was but the bridge is not staying the same scale it's bumping around it's rotating it doesn't look that good so you can try clicking preserve scale up here which will make things a little bit better it's going to mean the bridge isn't going to zoom in and out but in my experience you're never going to get a good result from warp stabilizer so there's a much better way of stabilizing this so i'm going to delete the water stabilizer and then i'm going to come down here to the bottom right into the tracker panel and i'm going to go stabilize motion using the tracker stabilizer here now what we need to do is we need the track type to be stabilized now what it's going to do is it's going to create a track point somewhere on your screen and this is what you can use to lock a specific object to the center of the screen so if you're doing one of those tracking shots where you have an object that stays always in the center this is what you would use but what we're also going to do is we're also going to take rotation and that's going to give us another track point and then what after effects is going to do is it's going to keep the line between these two track points vertical is going to keep it straight up so if we attach this to two different points on the bridge one above another so i'm going to use this top ball thing at the top here and then this um little i don't know what it is like a control box here once we track this through the whole shot after effects is going to keep this vertical in it and it should mean that our bridge stays completely upright throughout the whole shot so let's do it so just a quick word on how these track points work the inner square here this is what you're actually tracking this is the objective track so i've positioned it on top of this ball if you click on the center bit you get a little zoom in preview and then this outside box this is where it's going to look for it so if you make that outer frame too small and then you go to the next frame and the ball is somewhere out here then it won't pick it up and it won't track it properly but if you make it too big it might spend so long looking for it that your track is really really slow so for me something about this kind of size should work fine i'll do the same thing on the bottom so we're going to track this little kind of light colored control box thing in the center now once you've got your track point selected you're going to go down here and you're going to hit play and you can see after effects is tracking these two objects but one of the problems with this is that you can see this bottom track point is already in the wrong place we want it to be down here so what you're going to have to do is you're going to have to go through manually finding the frame where it jumps off so it looks like here this is the first place that it's left i need to bring it back down and put it there go to the next frame go like that keep going you've got the play button if you want to track through quickly but you can also go analyze one frame forward and you just want to check on both of your track points so the top one and the bottom one and make sure that they're staying in the right place anyway this is a little bit tedious but once you've done it this is what is going to stabilize your shot so you really really need to take good care and make sure that each of your track points are in exactly the right place on each frame now i've already done this so i'm just going to jump back into my final comp so this is actually the original composition and you can see that i've already done it and i've gone right in and i've made sure that you know the track point is always staying in exactly the right place so once we've done that and we've got our track points in exactly the right place we're going to go back down here to the bottom right into the tracker panel make sure we've got position and rotation on track type stabilize and then we're going to make sure that the the target is the layer itself so for me that's this bb brooklyn bridge 122 jpeg layer and then we're going to hit apply it's going to say apply dimensions x and y hit okay and now if we play this through you can see it's locked the bridge right into the center of the screen which is exactly what we want this is way better than the results that we got with warp stabilize obviously we've got these kind of black edges because the stabilization has made the shot jump around a little bit so what we'll do is we'll crop in and we'll remove the black so what i would do now is i would make a new composition so come over here take the composition that you're working on drop it on this icon down the bottom here and this will make a new composition which is the same size and shape so let's change the settings of this one let's make this a nice 4k 3840 2160 height there we go uhd and we'll just scale it down so the comp fits and we'll drop out all those nicely black edges and here we have our nice stabilized 4k hyperlapse now there's a couple of other things i would do just to make this look a little bit nicer so one of the things that i think we need to do in this shot is we need to add a little bit of motion blur if you were zooming down this road you would end up with blurry edges it's also going to make the wobbles that we see in the sides a little bit less pronounced there is a default motion blur effect called pixel motion blur which you can drop on i've actually got a plug-in that i use which i think works a lot better it's called real smart motion blur rsmb it is a paid plug-in but you just drop it on and it adds really nice naturalistic motion blur to the shot so if you want to do this properly i would definitely recommend picking up that plug-in let me just play it through with rsmb applied so you can see with the motion blur applied it blurs out some of these people in some of these cars and just makes the whole thing look a lot smoother now the other thing there's quite a lot of flicker in this time-lapse you can see the exposure kind of dances around a fair bit this is a little bit harder to correct but i've got another plug-in that i like to use and it's called flicker free made by a company called digital anarchy again it's a paid plug-in but if you want to make your timeouts look really really nice i would definitely recommend using it so i'll just drop that on as well so now i've got the flicker free applied you can see that's done a pretty good job of reducing the flicker especially in the sky there's still a little bit flicker on some of these walls it's not perfect but it's definitely better than it was before so this is it for the first part of this tutorial you can see we've got a really nice stabilized hyperlapse that we can definitely use just by itself and if that's all you wanted to know then you can definitely tune out now but in the second part of the video i'm going to show you how to create the dolly zoom effect so what we're actually going to do is we're going to render this out because it's going to be much easier for us to work with it as a video clip rather than an image sequence with all these effects on it so i'm going to go edit composition add to render queue and i'll save it out as a prores 42hq that should be fine and then i thought it would be fun to just compare these two shots side by side so we have the unstabilized footage here and then we've also got the stabilized chart as well so you can see how well this stabilization process actually works now let me show you how to make this dolly zoom effect so we're gonna grab the rendered shot make a new composition with it i'm going to call it let's call it dolly zoom and the first thing we wanted to do is we wanted to loop back and forth so the way i'm going to do that is i'm going to go right click i'm going to go time enable time remapping and it's going to create two keyframes one at the very beginning and one at the very end so i'm going to take this end keyframe and i'm going to drag it to one second so the whole thing is going to be over in a second basically just speeding up loads and loads but we want this to loop so what we're going to do is we're going to go into these keyframes i'm going to type in expression to make it loop backwards and forwards so i'm going to hit alt and i'm going to click on the stopwatch and then i'm going to type loop capital o u t open brackets and then i'm going to go type equals and then speech marks ping pong with a capital p and a capital p and now when i play this through it should bounce backwards and forwards great so every second it's going forwards and backwards and forwards and backwards now if you jump into the graph editor you can see it's going at a linear rate but we don't want it to be going linearly because it's not very smooth we want it to slow down as it comes into this and then speed up again in the middle and then slow down as it comes back and the way we're going to smooth them out is by converting these keyframes to easy ease like that and you can see straight away that's a little bit smoother but i think we can make it even smoother let me just jump into the graph editor so you can see what's happening you can see it starts slowly speeds up and then slows down as it gets into this point so let's make this curve even steeper we're going to go right click keyframe velocity set the incoming to about 65 and then for this as well we're going to set the outgoing velocity to 65 as well now if we play this through you can see we're speeding up and then it comes to a nicer stop before it goes back on itself i think this whole thing is happening a little bit too fast as well so i'm actually going to move this keyframe to about one and a half seconds just to slow it down a little bit so that's looking pretty good i like that taking three seconds overall so one and a half seconds to go in and one and a half seconds to come back now one thing i have noticed is that when we zoom in the bridge isn't very central so what i'm going to do is i'm actually going to use a guideline just to center it up so to do that you're going to go view make sure that you've got show rulers ticks here you get these rulers around the edge and then you can just drag a guideline in from the edge like this so we'll put that in the center of the frame and then let's come back to the beginning and you can see that yeah we're not very central at all so we're gonna hit p i'm going to set a keyframe like that so the bridge stays central make sure we've got the stop which i can tick and then we'll come one and a half seconds in and then just move the bridge over so it stays central as well then we also need to have a position keyframe at the end here as well when the bridge gets back so we'll just copy that first value and paste it onto that now let's right click all of these uh position keyframes and go keyframe velocity and make this 65 as well so that it's moving at the same speed as our time remapping and all the transformations kind of feel consistent with each other and now if you play that through you can see we've got it nice and centralized and it's moving at the same rate as our time shifting as well so we've got our nice zoom back and forward but now the final thing to do is to create this dolly zoom and the way we're going to make the dolly zoom is simply by zooming in as the camera is moving out so at this point here when we're fully zoomed in we're going to hit s for the scale keyframe make a keyframe there and then when the camera moves all the way back to its furthest back point we're just going to scale up the bridge like this so that it basically doesn't change in size i'm also just going to tweak our position keyframe as well like that so it stays nice and central and then of course with the scale keyframes we're going to need to easy use them too so right click keyframe assistant easy ease we're going to make sure that the keyframe velocity is also 65 65 65 so everything is moving at the same sort of speed if we look on our graph editor you can see this curve is the same shape as this curve which is the same shape as this curve in this most simple sense this is the dolly zoom effect and what you can do is you can play around with these position and scale keyframes and you can have it zooming back out again and doing the same thing in reverse so let me just show you the final comp for the original one that i posted on instagram you can see i've done pretty much exactly the same thing i've just sort of fine-tuned the speed maybe it takes a little bit longer than the example i've just shown you but the principles are exactly the same all you're doing is you're moving backwards and forwards and you're keyframing the scale and the position at the same time so that's actually it for this tutorial now the final thing that i did is i took it into davinci resolve this is where i did the color correction so you can see i've got a bunch of different color nodes going on here i went for this sort of blue and orange color scheme in the end i'm not actually going to talk about the color correction in this video i don't want it to be too long but if you're interested in finding out how i do color grading then drop me a message in the comments and i will definitely try and do a video on color correction at some point soon so that is about it for this tutorial i hope you enjoyed it as usual hit like hit subscribe if you've got any questions please do leave me a comment and if not then stay tuned for the next video coming soon

Channel: The Secret Sauce

Views: 167,968

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Id: lvYRN5Z-hns

Length: 14min 18sec (858 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 11 2021