Huge 3D cutting board

what's up guys the rookie woodworker here and check this out yeah i made that a little disclosure here this is the second time i've made that board the first time i made it i took the challenge really early on in my woodworking journey and i really had some bad tools to work with to make that board so this time around i had some better tools to work with and even with the better tools to work with i still ran into some issues and some sketchiness that created a whole new wish list of tools that will make that project easier and safer to do as the video progresses i'll talk further about that but let's get to it all right i'm working with cherry and walnut for this board today wait a minute again that must been some sale on cherry and walnut because i'm making everything out of it here lately but anyway i need to get some different types of wood in this shop so we can make some colorful stuff so we're starting off with milling this stuff down um i tend to buy my stuff rough cut if you buy dimensional lumber you can go ahead and skip this part and get right to the table saw but me i buy rough cut stuff because i like punishment for some reason [Music] you might have noticed that some of this wood isn't in the best of shape that's because i'm trying to eat away at my scrap wood pile for this and since this wood gets cut down into such fine pieces it's a good opportunity to get rid of some of the uglier stuff in the shop i'm not really targeting a particular thickness here i'm just shooting for some surfaces that can be glued together over here i'm just trying to get a nice flat edge that will run nice and smoothly across the the fence of my table saw so that my pieces are consistent every time now that we're at the table saw we're going to start working on getting into dimensions here um my bands are going to be an inch wide so i'm going to overshoot that on the table saw a little bit and try to cut out some pieces that are about one and a quarter inch wide that way whenever i glue these boards up i have a little bit of room to be able to sand to get perfect straight edges to join together not that a push stick is a terribly hard thing to build i do however have a video on how to build this particular push stick if you're interested as always be sure to use your eyes hearing and dust protection whenever you're using a table saw especially when you got such a cheap rickety one like the one i have now we gotta sort through that mess yay so at this point i'm gonna cut out all the junky parts of these pieces of wood all the cracks all the the knots and all the splintered pieces we don't want any of that to be in the finished piece because it will stick out like a sore thumb when you put finish on it and for now we're going to separate all our wood all our cherry pieces in one glue up and all our walnut pieces in the other glue up and we'll glue them all together sure even notice that uh i've got these situated in a long to short piece kind of layout and you're probably wondering why and that's no real reason why it's just i had shorter pieces and i had some longer pieces and it works out because whenever you glue it up and and you start to cut up that glue up um you're going to need shorter pieces off that glue up and then eventually as the board gets bigger you'll need longer pieces too so it works out pretty good like this then i glued up some larger walnut cubes that were left over from a previous project and this will serve as the center piece for our board it'll be the starting point basically so we want to make sure we start this off at a uniform thickness and make sure both ends are square so now we can start cutting up that big cherry and big walnut glue ups that we glued up earlier i'm going to try to make the thickness of this board an inch and a half so i'm going to overshoot and cut these off at an inch and three quarters and i'm going to start that off with a miter saw while the length of these pieces are manageable there and then i'll move over to the table saw and finish them off there then we'll run all of those pieces sideways across the joiner to establish a perfectly flat side and then we'll follow up with the planer on the other side to get the uniform thickness of one inch thick then we'll take some of those strips to the band saw we'll cut them in half and then we'll take them back to the thickness planer and plane them down to a quarter inch thick and they will be our thin strips that go around this cutting board with this particular grain direction and the how thin we're planing these boards down it would be really nice to have a drum sander to do this it'd be a lot safer because when you get down to this thin level you run the risk of it chipping out and then small chips flying at a higher rate of speed can cause some injuries so uh yeah this is where it gets a little bit sketchy i also wish i had a nice long edge sander that i could use instead of the jointer in some of these applications all right now it's time to get into doing some laps around this center piece the first thing we're going to do is we're going to measure out the strips and carefully leave a little bit of overlap on each end whenever we cut them off and start gluing them together then we'll carefully glue them together uh making sure that we leave about like a sixteenth of an inch of over hang on both ends of the board then after that dries we take it over to the miter saw where we will flush up those overhangs nice and perfectly so that the next glue up has a perfectly flat surface for a seamless glue up then from here we just go through the same process on the ends it looks exactly the same except for after the glue up we're not exactly able to flush it off at the miter saw because it's a little bit too long so we end up having to use the the jointer to flush them up the jointer works for this but you have to use some extra caution not to end up hitting it at the wrong angle and ended up eating into your piece a little bit more but you do get a nice flat joint off this but this is where i would really like to have an edge sander to take care of this instead of the jointer the first board like this i did i used a belt sander i didn't have a jointer at the time and that took a lot of time to get it right then we'll follow the same process for another lap of walnut now when you go through these laps you need to be very careful to make sure that you're gluing up the thick pieces against thick pieces and thin pieces against thin pieces also keep in mind how bendable those thin pieces are so you need to make sure you have plenty of clamps to make sure every inch of those thin pieces are nice and tight up against the next piece or else your glue joints end up with gaps in it so what i was doing throughout this project was i was hitting the glue ups with about four clamps and then i'd go over the top with another four or five clamps just to make sure i hit every inch i could with clamps then we just keep going round and round this board until the whole thing's done you can even use multiple pieces to cover one side of the board that's okay just make sure that the joint that you have between those pieces is perfect and then you'll have to approach your clamping style a little differently what i do is i'll clamp the biggest piece in there nice and tight and then leave the the small piece a little bit loose and then i'll come across the top with another clamp that clamps in long ways against those pieces and then i'll clamp it in nice and tight that way and then i'll clamp that smaller piece and nice and tight to the rest of the board then just keep on going around the board just don't forget to clamp big pieces against big pieces and small pieces against small pieces i forgot that at one point in time and i clamped that board up got ready to walk out of the garage and then i re i looked back at it and that's when i realized it all know i glued them one backwards and fortunately there was a lot of panicking going on but fortunately when i went back and pulled it apart that pulled apart nice and easily and i was able to clamp it back the correct way but yeah it was it was pretty scary moment i thought i was going to have to chop some stuff up when the when the table saw the thing i hate about using the joiner for this is there's that risky you might mess up and cut into that board a little bit too much and if you end up having to take too much off the side of one of these these laps it'll show up like a sore thumb in your piece and and if you end up doing it you just end up having to rip it off with the table saw and start over and it's just a lot of risk i would really like to get an edge sander so that i can mitigate that risk and yes because of all the glue ups here this this does take a long time to do um i think there was like a total of like 18 or 20 glue ups i ended up doing here it took me about two weeks to do this board because of that you know i i i have a full-time job that's not woodworking so i only get to do these glue ups once maybe twice a day but each glue up really only takes me about 15 to 20 minutes to do individually but the total time i have in the sport is probably somewhere in the ballpark of 12 to 13 hours being that i'm a rookie woodworker new at this and if i had better tools i could probably cut that in half eventually but yeah this board does take a lot of time to do but the nice thing about these these really short time span glue ups that we're doing here you can squeeze in a glue up like almost any time like getting ready to take the wife out for a date squeezing the glue up real quick while she does her hair and then uh you're ready to go but yeah for the last lap of this board we're gonna go with a complete lap of one inch cherry around this whole board and then it's off to the flattening jig with it this jig that i'm using here i made it myself i made it to flatten boards while also being able to use it to create juice grooves around boards as well i actually have a video on how to make this jig it's uh probably about four or five videos back in my channel actually so go check that out if you're interested in making it i got a little impatient started moving fast with this jig which is not good because this board actually had a little bit of inconsistencies and i ended up taking off some thick pieces of material and i ended up having it chatter followed by a little bit of kickback so yeah that's going to be a problem when i go to sand later on but yeah when that happens it's a sign that you're either taking off too much material or moving too fast or in my case i think it was a little bit of both so you just need to take it a little slower and maybe take a little bit less material well this is what it looks like when that happens and it's uh yeah it's going to take some work [Music] now it's time to route out a juice groove and sorry to say but this didn't go without a brain fart either as you can see there's a gap in my fence going from the short fence to the long fence whenever i use a wide board that gap gets bigger and it's a little bit too big for this and instead of stopping and taking care of that situation i decided i'm going to try to freehand it and it made a little bit of a wavy line to work with there so i ended up having to fix that situation so after realizing that you know i kind of screwed this up a little bit but it's also not like an end of the world level screw-up it's just a little bit of waviness so what i did was i finished routing out this juice groove and then i went ahead and upped to the next size up bit and i went and fixed my fence with a little bit of a fence extender i made there and i went ahead and hit the juice groove with a slightly bigger bit and that pretty much polished you right up it ended up looking perfect so the lesson here is is when you're a little bit of an idiot like myself uh make sure you have a slightly bigger bit on hand to help fix your screw-ups so here i'm going to route in some handles on the bottom side of this board [Music] and since i'm using a bit from one of those 20 pieces for a hundred dollar kit i ended up with some burn marks in my handle so i just carefully hit that with my dremel with a sanding disc on the end of it now you got to be careful with this i keep it at the slowest speed possible because this dremel itself if you're not careful it'll burn the wood too so you gotta like hit a spot and get through there really quick let it cool off and then come back and touch it again if you need to and just move slowly and don't put pressure on it because it can grab it can it can take off a lot of material when you don't need to and it can really make your your juice groove and and your your handles look like crap at the end see if you're going to use one of these to fix up some burn marks be extremely cautious with it and then we'll get to the rest of sanding you know like everybody's favorite part of woodworking the sanding here you see me addressing the chatter marks with a router i probably should have just did another pass with a router and just skimmed it one more time to take a little bit more off of it because that would have saved me a lot of work but here you see me like breaking every sanding rule in the book i'm like putting pressure on the sander i'm using super low grit sandpaper and i'm standing the sander up on end trying to get through that thing uh at the end of the day it ended up looking pretty darn good and i moved on and did the rest of my sanding and finish this piece off but yeah you know the routine hit everything with 80 then 120 then 240 then wet it down and let it dry then 240 again and then if you want to go with even higher grain grit sandpaper then i go for it get that thing glass smooth then here's the favorite part is uh finish when you put that oil on and you get to see your piece come to life like look at that this is where it all pays off i'm going every once with a hundred percent mineral oil then i'll let that sit overnight i i put on a put a bunch of it on there let it soak up overnight and then i come back the next day and then i hit it with a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax to really lock in those uh those grains that way uh nothing can get in or out of that board the mineral beeswax mixture kind of almost seems like a vaseline type of viscosity of material and i i wipe that on pretty pretty thick and then i'll let that sit for an hour or two and then i'll come back and i'll just buff it in we're not really trying to wipe it off but we're trying to buff that into the piece then just make my feet installation consistent while being quick and easy i just grab a square object any square object and i use that to measure out where i want to put my feet there is the finished piece and i'm really excited with how the 3d look turned out it's better than i even expected and at 29 by 15 inches this thing turned out to be huge i love how big it is how heavy it is how much presence it has but if you enjoyed this video please do me a favor and hit that like button and if you have any questions or comments or any suggestions hit them comments below and if you want to see more videos like this and follow me along in my woodworking journey please feel free to subscribe to my channel hit that notification bell that way it lets you know the next time i post a video like this and feel free to check out the juice groove and planing jig video here and feel free to watch any of my other videos that are on my channel i got some other interesting boards over there you can check them out and and see what you can do till next time make something awesome

Channel: The Rookie Woodworker

Views: 33,777

Keywords: woodworking, woodworker, wood worker, wood working, cutting board, butcher block, butcherblock, flattening jig, board flattening jig, wood art, wooden art

Id: 7xrVNJ_PtFY

Length: 23min 30sec (1410 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 02 2021