How we rebuilt our Pontiac GTO 389 engine | Redline Rebuilds Explained - S2E4

[Music] what's up everybody we are back again with another redline rebuild explained I'm Ben the guy behind the camera for all this stuff and I'm David in front of the camera and fortunately at least at least from like here to here my body is in front of the camera okay we try and keep your face out yes it's a good idea but yeah so then this is our 389 rebuild and it started slightly different than most of them it did I mean the first shot here is is not a just engine covered in grime that we need to take apart what do we have we have boxes of parts a friend of mine asked me if I had any interest in a 389 Pontiac and I said sure that sounds fantastic I said what kind of condition is he says it's in boxes I'm like oh okay so I have a crate motor basically so that's in a crate right by definition he was correct but ultimately he had been he had a Pontiac he had collected some pieces of parts throughout the day or throughout the years got rid of that Pontiac automobile and had these left and was one of those like hey I don't want to throw this away it's a 60s motor so on and so forth which is pretty common relative to the Hobby everyone has something that they've hung on to here there and so we had a lot of pieces some were for the Pontiac some not some I still don't know what they're for loading the boxes this is a good shot of everything that we had I mean there were duplicates of things there were like he said things that didn't belong to any sort of Pontiac anything so I guess I mean from this we get everything out of the box what was sort of the first step at this point was was an inventory of okay what we have what can what can we even reuse obviously the Pistons they were not youth worth trying to even bother and then typically never our camshafts the same thing unless you're in some kind of weird rod real rods potentially could be reused I mean they need to check them for for straightness and resize them and then oil pans and some of that type of stuff we could reused and at the end of the day they were rusted enough that it made sense just to buy new ones so here we have two different cam shafts plus a bunch of lifters on them oh yeah on the right all that stuff is flat out paperweights right turn it into a lamp or something yeah here's all of our pistons again what you just said which they were all the stock Pistons so here's where things get exciting yeah so going into it I knew the block had a hole in it I'll say thankfully it wasn't a cylinder opposed to through the outside because that's a whole different repair so this is a fairly straightforward you know put a sleeve in the block at this point not I since there isn't I have no no history at all on the and the engine parts so I really don't know what happened to it based on the fact that it's pushed the piece there is pushed into the water jacket opposed to into the cylinder tells me that block didn't freeze it was some damage the piston you know came apart and rod whacked it I don't know that the rods I have or even the matching rods to that block right so you'd expect to see a mangled bit yeah exactly so it was just could have just been he just happened to get this got a deal on a lock whatever it was alright so because we don't do the full teardown obviously it's already torn down for us the first place we end up is that good old therapy yeah the first thing is decided with that block is is usable obviously it's already cleaned here went through that whole process checked it for cracks externally internally so we at this point we're pretty sure that we can use it so the next step is yes well what you're seeing right here is so Mike Mike is concentrating on that more that has the problem and the idea is you cut this out you want to see how far the cracks go and if there's you know if there isn't enough foundation there to hold the sleeve then the block the whole block is just junk it's time to start over this the cracks were contained well enough that we we felt good about putting a sleeve in so meaning that it wasn't going into any other structural part of the block that you want to put something in it didn't go across to the other cylinder or or go into one of the threads or another something where it's gonna be spewing water into oil or vice versa or pulling out correct studs or anything like that correct yeah so here it's all cleaned up to the point where it's ready for the sleeve and he's just kind of checking checking that out from that standpoint yeah so he pulls it out I mean yep and again checking it again but what this was a new this is a I mean you've probably had this done to blocks before this is new to me and new to any of the videos that we've done we haven't had to do this with anything yet but I thought this part in particular I was expecting him to get some sort of Loctite some sort of glue welded in something correct but there wasn't anything no and and it's not a technically romantic function either its hammered in yeah yes so one of the things that Mike likes to do is he one it's not cut all the way down so there's actually a left a little bit of a step at the very bottom so so the so the new sleeve has something to stop again you're capturing it okay so no it doesn't go through right Frank so typically you put two to four thought on a cast block cast iron block you usually put two to four thousandths of interference so the hole is that much smaller than the sleeve okay so you have a press fit in there but of course in the function of the engine running and cooling in that you know you have expansion and contraction so what you're doing is what he likes to do or he found works really well is so the sleeve doesn't move at all he puts a basically a stop at the bottom by just not going all the way down in leaving a little bit of an edge there and then the heads just holding it on there and then the head sandwiches it in exactly but so when he's done in here you'll see that it's raised up almost a quarter inch which just puts it back in so right here he's in all the way and like you said there are there is no Loctite there's no sealer from that function because it's not going to the press that seals it all the way around if it's a good concentric hole and you're and you're going to have the seal that you're looking for barros oil and water and compression mm-hmm so back on to the Machine and at this point I'm now here he's here he's going through now I'm boring the rest of the cylinders because that's like okay that sleeve is you know that hole is good it's salvageable now we can bore everything and be done now here he's gonna and you're doing that because you have to you're doing that because you have to match they all have to be the same yeah you want all the same piston size in there single day and here he's just taking off the top edge of that and he's gonna rough cut it so it's not you know there's still just a hair it's not dead perfect because that's not what this process is for this is what it is so we've seen this a bunch we've seen this in every video but just give me the quick rundown on what this is doing so the rundown is is it's running a cutter across the top of that deck and making it dead parallel and flat relative to the crank centerline so we're starting here with the heads and this is a sort of thing this is stuff that we would normally do anyway but was there any sort of more to think about since we didn't have a history with this we didn't know yeah know anything about where it came from is there anything we had to be was it just kind of a do everything it yeah basically at the end of the day it was a it was do everything so we didn't have to I mean you go through and you check every you know check items but not knowing if these heads were overheated and warped and so on and so forth in you know and risking you know a guide or something being bad but just put all new stuff after it neural the you know where we could Wiener Wiener old guides opposed replacing the guide but yeah all the seats are replaced I also like to do that on the exhaust side just to be have good fresh hardened seats so it's all apart what cut it's all apartments ready how does it time to do it but now you can run any fuel after it it doesn't care with the unleaded leaded versus unleaded fuel yes will it last forever with the softer exhaust seats relative to what this engines gonna see a hundred percent does it make sense to do that no it's just being cheap that point so so here he's going through you have a cutter you're cutting in and cutting a new pocket cutting the old seat out that was actually part of the casting and now hammering in a new seat and that's what you're talking about with the leaded versus unleaded with these new seats now you don't have to worry it's right it's more critical on the exhaust side than it is the intake side but these heads needed both they were pretty well used now he's obviously he's cutting these seats to fit the valves and we had a couple questions on on the YouTube video just about us not showing uh slapping the valves which normally you see the little wood Dale thing they got a suction cup on it yep yeah exactly on the so traditionally speaking seats were ground hmm they were not cut so it had a stone that you went in there and spun and you got your seat and you put a 45 degree seat in and then a 44 and a half degrees on your valve which was also ground so you have a grinding stone that's not that is also wear factor it has a wear factor to it they're not as accurate as a in this application they're not as accurate as doing a cutter so today's technologies use a cutter so now the cutter goes in its it's perfectly 45 degrees at the at the mating of the two components so now you get a perfect seal so it's 45 on both of them and really what's found is when you go through and you lap it no matter how much you clean it you still have lapping compound in there okay basically diamond dust and it just it wears it adds wear to the to the seats themselves the whatever is left and then also into your guides so he's nowhere at that point yeah so if you don't need to lap them because the cutters are better you know you don't bother look at this point so the same deal here with the with the decking now if if you did have a warped head this rescues that or to a certain extent yes if it has it if it has a warped head it will you know any imperfection and flatness it will take it'll take that out and now there's certainly a point where you can only go so far right because you run into two things a the valves would be hanging past the surface of the head which could cause an issue and then the other is as you lower the head down it starts to change the angle of your intake manifold which is just something maybe to be aware of because as you lower the head down the gap if you will the heads pull away from the intake so now sealing that intake up could get tricky oh right not careful all your different angles too yes yes now can you can you make up for some of that by the size gasket that you put in there correct there are ways yes ways around it okay so if you do need to let's say same something that was badly warped or damaged or something like that you could by taking up that space at different yep just well you'll see as we go through here there's and as we've done with all of these you're always measuring stuff and you're always measuring it twice three times four times you're measuring at the beginning you're measuring it during and while you're doing this I'd be measuring it after and then you're measuring it immediately before you install it yep because at the end of the day they're the only measurement that counts is the last one right but you get better you got to do all your homework going to the well and even with all those we've we've had moments where we go wait a minute under percent which is why you do all those same things every single time so you catch it before we put the whole thing together you can blow something up there that won't rotate yeah all right so more machine shop stuff we are at this point year where we're we're disassembling the rod and piston setup obviously in turning those Pistons and ashtrays Pistons a jump but the rods robots we're gonna see if we can use them and ultimately yes we were able to able to use the set of rods that we had so what Mike's doing here is as simple just he's just taking them apart yeah and then here he is facing them off you're facing off the two mating surfaces so they're nice and clean now granted as you on that surface as you face that you bring the cap and rod tighter together so it might be the right size across the cap but top the bottom won't because it's gonna be short or distant so it's oh you're turning it into an oval all right okay Oh a slightly football-shaped I know yeah super fat yeah it kind of has the point of where the two things come together exactly which soul takes you to which takes you to pushing in new pushing in new studs pushing the new rod bolts which these rod bolts are oh my 52 years old now so probably a good idea to put new ones in it's just one of those things where it's like it's worth that extra little incident yeah I mean it's cheap insurance sure could the could the factory rods hold up to 200 horse still yep in 2500 rpm most likely mm-hmm but for 50 bucks at this point that's nothing and we'll talk more about it sort of toward the end of we had a you know we always get questions of how much Oh would this cost you know this cost me too and we'll cover that but part of as we as we talk about all these things as we eventually talk about all the other bits and pieces that we added to this build it's important to think that like we're doing everything to the right to the like safe degree right the could you reuse this yes should you probably not if you needed to penny pinch there or spots maybe where you could do it but here we're like we want to build this thing and we want to be able to last yeah and that's it in and there'll be the argument of well if you're doing it that way then why didn't you just buy brand new rods well you're right mm-hmm I mean at the end of the day what do we really save money wise by reusing these rods reconditioned by time you add all the machine shop efforts you're right we could have bought brand-new rods for sure Berlin probably and know they're 50 bucks right when you when you look at this build in particular where we're coming from this bucket of parts there was a certain aspect of where we wanted to use as much as we could because then at that point then it's just so well we just bought all the parts and we slapped it together yeah at that point you might as well buy a creep holder and be here right I don't know just kicking there the whole mindset of us like oh we're resurrecting this 66 Pontiac GTO motor is is the like well yet we want to like have actual parts from the 64 honey this is what c6 paint this is what car people do mm-hmm we're old car people because we like the old stuff and we're we're recycling it we are keeping it active mm-hmm not just simply buying but we're so green with these were more green royal babies yes exactly so Mike's got a torque wrench here and what's the so he's I put the new bolts in but now he's got torque and stuff down and what's the point of doing that yeah so so brand-new bolts in it torque everything down as it's going to be used so I think it's 45 on the new on the new bolts as it's going to be installed you know as it's gonna be installed in the motor because you want to pull everything to size so in a relaxed state it's one size torque down it's a just like when we go and measure the we put the bearing shells in and we measure that size the same principle so here he's going to torque everything down and then go through and now it's gonna resize them so they're correct take that football shape out mm-hmm cuz it's not a lot you don't need a cutter he's basically using us it's a stone honing a honing function mm-hmm so he hones it and then there's little ya gauge up where his left that he's checking it with there he is getting it making sure it's the spec and now this is something new for us this is yeah this is the first time that I have ever watched a crankshaft being cut and then subsequently polished so just when I said grinding stones aren't accurate mm-hmm this is the way they are done they're done with a grinding stone here a big grinding a very big grinding stone in its paste and so on and so forth two separate styles of operation this grinding stone would be capable of setting not only impressive surface surface finish but also size in the millions oh really I didn't realize that oh yeah that accurate oh yes yes yeah in fact one of the one of the things is you to get yet perfect size you run until spark out so it basically stops sparking how come there's a kind of a side note I remember that for my engineering classes maybe some of the only things work got me excited is Luke it was a cool process and we actually took two cranks there because we had to grace and we figured well if we're gonna go down there we might as well just have them both done and then we have an extra one sitting around for who knows another project or somebody says hey you know what I'm looking for a crank and we're we're the best friend that says exactly hey you know what I got where that was in the back yeah but this was when we we took this to therapy and they don't they don't do crank grinding there but essentially mark measured it and decided right this isn't gonna work yep it would this weekend there was some wonkiness if you remember with this the someone decided that the I think it was the main one of the main bearings was a different size than all the rest that's right one rod was turned in it and it was kind of like a head-scratcher because in if you're gonna go through the task of putting this on the lathe to turn it mm-hmm you might as well turn them all right because once the setup is done turning them all is nothing and time relative to to the setup so yeah one was forty one was one was well it was like a it was like a ten and a twenty or somewhere in I yeah and so so after that we're like okay we need it ground and then what was the how do we figure out what it needs to be ground to and what other parts of the bill that that effect right so in this sinner you are beholden to what's available what bearing sizes are available okay so you know depending on the brand there's different in popularity there's different mm-hm clearances or sizes so like for instance so it'll be Chevy small-block there's gonna be way more options for Barrington but even then there's still not a ton so you typically have like a 1 under so basically you you polish the stock crank but it's what a thousand undersized so you get a thousand oversized bearing and now you have but then you typically have a 10 a 20 and a 30 and in this case they also offered a 40 okay and of course the other Chevy's they'll do that as well but in the Pontiac that's those were the ones are available there was some question whether their 40 was available or not we confirmed that it was so at the end of the day you're trying to set clearances for oil so you want to put you got to make sure you got bearings to work with that to get the clearance to where you want so if you have so in this process again this is capable to go to the millions so you can set your clearance exactly where you want so the best case scenario would be to take your bearings I say no all right I'm gonna cut this crank to 230 over you take those bearings put them in a block measure everything and then take that information to the to the crank grinder and say okay I want exactly two and a half thousands clearance okay and he'll say okay cool I know exactly what size I need to cut these two and they will it will be dead-on now typical fashion is you send the crankshaft out you get it cut ten over and then you go by your your bearings in your right there closing but if you're close enough you're within a half a pow so when you get in race type applications where things are really critical that's where you would go and do it in that direction okay so that was that was pretty in-depth but I we cut this 240 this crankshaft was 30 that one was 30 and one was 40 okay I believe this one is the 30 so what is interesting though is it turns the crankshaft turns that stone does not rotate it spins but it does not move in and out so when you have the crankshaft spinning your the ends are the mains are relative to the ends right centered but the throws are not or the bride burning sighs it was one of the most visually disconcerting things that I've ever seen watching it spin in that and I think I may have an iPhone video maybe I'll get that in here but you watch it and go and your brain can't you're used to watching a crankshaft spin on the mains correct and once it rotates around one of the one of the rods all of a sudden your brains like no wait does that not work does not compute yes in what allows that is this is enough for jaw chuck not just close perfect perfectly perfect the thing doesn't look like it's moving at all in the hole so it so it flips from the from the earth rotating about the Sun - the Sun rotating about the earth yeah so right here you can see that so he is cutting a rhod journal at the at that point so you can see how far out that the throws are yeah it was cool it was really cool and that's that's using a four jaw Chuck instead of a kind of a three jaw Chuck now this hand held in this picture that reminds me of like a handheld chainsaw to the face but it has a basic a piece of sandpaper on it mm-hmm fine sandpaper and that's just the polishing function so you're not going to change the concentricity or roundness of that journal it's it is what it is it's rotating that is wrote you know the that belt is spinning as well so he's just going in and he's just putting the fine-tune on it I mean if he changes it a millionth I'd be I'd be surprised it's just a micro power giving it the best possible surface because it's gonna be spinning examine a lot yeah yeah cool yeah well that was a lot I hope you guys appreciate that sometimes we can go down rabbit holes but it's it's cool stuff to learn in according to Doug at all shaft it takes a special person to run a grinder all day long in after being there for most of the day I hundred percent agree it does take a special person because a you are looking at very very small numbers in ultra sensitive to size and that and and it's repetitive it's repetitive its repetitive but you can never not pay attention to the details you can't shut your brain off so fresh coat of paint always yep yeah fresh fresh coat of paint tape all the surfaces off that you don't want to scrape later basically it was most obviously you don't want to get paint inside the engine after you did all the cleaning process it's a hot and this is I've always get this question why do you paint the motor first before it's all assembled because GM or Ford they painted it all together that's 100% correct and they did that for a reason I do it this way because if you ever walked into somebody house where they painted that they taped off the trim and then painted it never looks as good as the walls are painted and then the trim is painted and placed on its crisper it looks better mm-hm do I miss areas when I tape it off and I got to go in and touch up where like the gasket oh shoot the gas didn't do go all the way out to the outside it's halfway yes a hundred percent always do but at the end of the day I think it looks better I like it better it's also less work because these parts are already cleaned their oil free they're ready to be painted after a motors assembled I've got stuff it's oiled it's your oil down so just to avoid having to do things twice this is the way I like to do it now I don't have to tape off as much obviously once it's together and that is why G M or the OE is typically painted on this one assembly quantity versus quality so yes yes alright and we are in the shop we're ready to put this thing together this is - we're in the new shop at this point you go true now this is this is something man I mean it goes by pretty quick in the video yes it's obviously we take all the all the tape off but what are you doing here with the drill so here and you can do this at any point in the process I'll say I like to do it before it's in theory this should have been done before it was painted but all I'm doing here is I'm chasing all the threaded holes for any kind of corrosion that that from being you know from the cleaning process to at best point if it you know got any rust in the holes and of course you catch you know just general garbage in them still and you're smoothing things out for the assembly process yeah making sure you don't put a well the bolt halfway in and then go oh man doesn't it's broke off yeah there's one at the bottom and the other part of it is too is when we go through an assemble we use torque wrenches and we use torque wrenches for reasons of getting a consistent clamp load relative to whatever the specification is so you're always looking for load because torque is only equal to that clamp load when friction is a constant so when they decided hey my clamp load needs to be X amount and it takes this amount of torque they're also saying it has a constant mu of the surface so you have the friction is a constant between the two so point is a rusted up thread and a smooth red you might torque it down to the same number but your clamp load will not be the same and that's also where it comes in when when thread men are many fastener manufacturers specify you know this needs to be dry or it needs to be oiled or it needs my lubricant that's why that stuff as there is so you get the clamp load ultimately even some bolt stretch which helps that clamp load stay or that part stay tightly together and not move relative to he no changes in temperature cool so long story yes going through and cleaning up all those and then the fun part of putting in cam bearings of all the motors we always have a little problem here there with putting a cam bearing in remedy that with a brand new cam tool I think prior to this that we may have mangled one of these items and of course you got to go in for both sides so we yeah the engine stand limit you you know in theory you could put a ball on on the table before you put it on the engine stand but sometimes you don't think that far enough that's probably me I said put it on the stand so I can get the shot was all about the camera shot mm-hmm and then you oil oil gallery plugs freeze plugs I like using the brass plugs they look sexier than the steel ones and brass has some advantage relative to ceiling in general and I there's you can just see it in there there's I use some height act to seal around the freeze plugs just my process and yes the strength of a serpentine bow is impressive every every video that we've done it's commented on that actually I think they only people really only commented I think in the about the Thirlby aspect of it but we've we use it yeah it works great yeah yeah one of these days I'm gonna contact gates and ask them what the what the strength of one is just to have a number because it's gotta be way way up I know the company that I used to work for does all that stuff for all the climbing equipment the whole strength that yeah we I can call him up and we can just we send them out one I'll send them send them a couple belts a little and I bet you it gets eight miles long before it breaks yeah that and our beds got nylon cords so there's gonna stretch as well yeah all right yeah all right so back to the assembly side cam bearings are in there in so when you have when you put cam bearings in you have to place them relative to the saddles that they go into in the block of course and there's also a hole that you need to line up depending on the manufacturer that sometimes you line the hole in the bearing to the hole sometimes you clock it relative to a slot there's all kinds of little caveats company to company alright so cam brains are lubed up here goes you know in goes the camshaft and this particular engine that uses a camshaft retaining plate okay the basically just holds it from walking out of the block all right you talked about this earlier in terms of this is similar to when Mike was torquing the rods - yes yep so here I'm put in every main cap with its respective bearing halves and then you measure you measure that size once it's fully clamped because 40 foot pounds of torque and 80 foot pounds of torque will be about a thousand difference in size because if I remember right I did that at one point without this is close enough and then I get my gap of my oil clearance was too much and then I'm like you know maybe I should just torque at this to spec and see what in it made a difference may or may not have been with this one but this is again just one of those checks that's like make sure that the bearings are correct make sure that the crank that we machined is correct all right and now we're putting the the studs now is this a our studs a factory or or the other than bolts enough for this particular engine it would have been bolts from a factory installation I like I like the studs whenever I can use them I don't always use them but it looks like one I do they're very impressive and then assembly Lube is what you see on ivory one of the journals i over lube them because it doesn't matter having too much too little could be a problem and this is and that's all of the reason you're doing that is because none of that stuff turns and gets oil until you go to fire it up to the bone dry oil pressure right and if you were gonna fire this immediately there's argument that you could run you know just straight up engine oil on all the means because that's what it gets anyway mm-hmm yep you're right but for six bucks roughly that works every time and you don't have to think about it and we have we have vacations we have other projects we have everything and we don't know if we're gonna example this part of it and then no you know the one you're gonna really acquire together yeah exactly right or in the case of a Hemi you don't know that you're gonna go and try and fire it and then find a whole bunch of water in there just exactly right so we were talking about torque earlier and clamp load so while we're putting these in here air these are have to be a RP studs and they have their own thread lubricant for torquing things down and they specify that the bottom of the so so the washer has to be lube the threads have to be lubed and the face of the nut has to be lubed and the idea is that it's a constant it's a predictable torque that way you're not the friction between the bolt and the washer or the bolt and the caps doesn't restrict you getting an accurate correct torque reading and therefore the correct clamp yes all right and then time to have a little fun maybe I'll put the time-lapse GoPro time lapse in of me doing this shot well the hardest part about this shot is convincing the rods and in the wrist pins and the Pistons that they want to do this I bought him lunch Vidhya yeah I ate it all but so we have our brand-new JE Pistons spiral locks because we factory so when Mike was pressing the the wrist pins off the rods i SPECT out on these what they call floating floating piston so the rods the the wrist pin is floating it has clearance relative to the big in or small end of the rod and the piston and therefore you're using these spiral locks to which most people will curse which I understand why yeah they can be a little pesky in the assembly process so here you go that was just a quick shot of you putting one in yeah yep got a little teensy screwdriver and one of the reasons now there are off-the-shelf Pistons available for three nodes without a doubt I want nine and a half to one compression so we can use pump gas and not have a lot of issues relative to spark knocking that factory wise these motors would have been you know closer to 10 to 1 okay in with today's unleaded fuel and the ethanol and such it would have spark Mac issues it would not like it that's cool to think through all that stuff that's good well we were having a conversation earlier about just all the different things the engine building and and what you're gonna be using the engine for from you know racing on a curvy track to racing from a straight line to wanting to race but also have it be a daily driver to all the different things and all the things that you're in just trying to balance yeah fuel efficiency to power to torque to everything it's just it's so cool all the different spots where you're going to things slightly right to get what you want to get out of it that's crowd of the engine so here you haven't put the rings on that piston there no so what are you checking here then so what I'm doing here is I'm degreeing in the camshaft so the camshaft with that chain and the multiple positions on the on the gear on the crank side how they you can clock them yep you can clock them so you can advance them you can them I wanted to put it in straight up if you will as the man you as the manufacturer Specht out there's always a little slight difference in where the keyway is in the crankshaft you know you have a lot of tolerance stack up a lot of parts that you're trying to deal with and agreeing that in takes that out it does not say that it does not mean that if you have to advance or it to make that number right that does not mean that any of the parts were machined incorrectly all that means is that variation one was at one end one was at the other and this helps take take that out I don't need the Rings in there because I just don't need to drag then all I need is a piston in there really is just four top dead center which is exactly what I'm doing there so all your what you're doing is you're rotating the the assembly the piston up in determining where top dead center is at or where the top of that stroke is and and rotating the degree wheel to zero it and now I'm using one of the lifters I'm going to use notice I'm using the outside of the lifter opposed to the center and that's because I want a solid I want a solid piece to extend because there's a hydraulically yeah it's a Hydra it's a roller roller hydraulic roller lifter so nothing compresses except for in the hydraulic section if you will which is down in the inside and all the hydraulic function is it takes up lash we're in a solid lifter you put lash in it or gap so as the temperature changes it doesn't go to solid because that would be ugly and you potentially leave a valve open that's what happens so here just dial indicator figured out where it's at and then adjusting things accordingly to get and then it comes up I didn't film so if you didn't catch that it happens very quickly alright so you have that done so next step next step is finish the assembly on the rods rods and pistons putting the Rings on but the oil you know the air your - your oil control ring which is the corrugated looking section and then there's an upper and lower relative to that and then your secondary ringing yeah alright now this looks a similar clamp than what Mike had going on the thing what are you what are you doing so I'm doing actually I'm doing exactly what Mike did with exception of unput in the bearing in there now and measuring the bearing diameter ID if you will in comparing that to the crankshaft OD that tells me what my oil cleared so again another check to make sure that when we put it together everything's gonna still rotate correct have the cribbage this is where we had 40 we had 40 over 30 over bearings but we were using the 40 over crank or something along that lines which was why we measured it here because we were just thrown it together it would have clattered like the daylight's and would not have been as it would have been eventful when we started it up we'll put it that one we got it we got a little overzealous with the like oh we're gonna save two cranks and then diffused ourselves but I'm not realizing which one which one were you quick call to therapy and we had another man up the next day yeah that day ended early we were like oh alright well guess we're going home but they'll be here in the morning and you wanna you know you certainly just like the lubing up the crankshaft or putting the assembly Lube on her you don't want to put the Pistons into a dry cylinder so not only is the cylinder wiped down with with just engine oil in this particular case but then you also do the same thing with the with the Rings piston skirts and the Rings is the important part and your back and forth here is just inserting and then torque your caps down and I saw we started with the with the ones there's there's there's about three different ways to put Pistons in the hole with the Rings because you have to compress the Rings so they go slip down in the hole in so here we're using the OD clamp-style and got frustrated with it some days it works and it's I know it's all operator it's something that works beautifully and then it's all operated then I'm surprised any of this works I hear you so then the second so then our second choice was my old faithful adjustable sleeve that worked like a champ yeah go one Bank flip it around here probably mostly because I said I want the shot to be different they do it this way the true yes I love that this is open because normally you don't really get to see this aspect of it I don't think we've done one yet where you where you have that open view camshaft oh yeah you get a good good view of the camshaft without the lifters in a way and speaking of a good view view of our fancy laser look at that Pistons it's all on the details man it is alright it's our block assembled short block is assembled yes and in March is it the valve train that's nice too that we can just sit back while it the strips all its own yeah tape off took heaven our own gremlins just work I want to say this shot mostly people just care about the the engine stuff but I'm gonna I'm just gonna a toot my own horn here I think the shot took me like three hours yes you are off I would know about this day there so yeah I'm obviously there no but yeah yeah no but I think I did start out that day you weren't there and then I just had it I'll notice here - this is definitely during the summer because you're not the same pasty white that you are that's correct got a nice tan going yeah I think if I remember it was fairly warm in the shop that day as well so walk me through what's going on here you're you're pulling the valves and the springs off there but you're not assembling anything right now correct so what i'm doing here is springs need to be they have a relative of the camshaft you have so you have a camshaft in there when you're talking about the full system so you have your camshaft and cam manufacturers will spec out a spring so you want they want excellent uzhitze and seat pressure so on during an installed height meaning at rest but installed they want x amount of seat pressure well springs are developed relative to seat pressure so they'll tell you it is X amount of pounds at this height oh okay and there's in fact I took these springs ahead of over at throw bays and we checked them on ax on a spring tester to make sure that spring load was really what it was supposed to be at that height okay now what i'm doing here is okay so now I know my springs are good I know I get the right load but now I gotta make sure they're actually installed to the right height otherwise that load won't be that won't be correct and that's factoring in the length of the valve where the keepers sit on that and everything and the pockets in the heads and the and the where the valve is hat because that seat could be higher or lower down there so again you're back to a whole big stack up and this is the last piece to say you know yes my spring is where it needs to be high so if it's not what it needs to be what do you do to adjust it so there's there's so let's say give there for instance that this if the spring is not compressed enough then you can put shims underneath the spring between the head and the spring and that brings it tighter now if you need and you can also change the retainers and bring the retainer down lower but typically you use shim the springs one way or the other if you get into the situation where you need more pocket which actually we found out with these you have to use a retainer that comes up higher to basically not compress the spring as much and when there's a retainer you mean a little clip or on top of the springs right now is sitting so oh okay the yep that's the that's retainer these are the keepers keepers and returns okay so many things give me names so at some point you'll see so you're this this little guy that you're using has measurement it's a micrometer okay yeah and hence all the numbers and yeah really that's just doodling you can track of okay so everything you got everything set you know what spacers you need I'm happy with it and now it's assembly time what are the what are these little blue cap deals that you put oh well these are valve stem seals and they're just to keep oil from from going down the valve stem into the combustion chamber on the backside yeah so typically most people are like oh you don't have to have them on the exhaust yeah they're fairly correct my thought is it doesn't cost me anything mhm so I put in in the difference between the blue and the black ones that you can see there the blue tends to be a little bit better seal I put those on the intake and I use the black on the on the exhaust side lots of times when a motor is burning oil or using oil but you don't know where it's coming from it's not leaking on the ground last time it is these intake seals because that's the side that has suction and it'll suck it right down the guide because there's nothing sealing the top of it that's all worn out guide or what-have-you will cause that okay and that's the sort of thing where if you determine that that's the problem you can pull the heads when when it's sitting in the car yeah you don't have to pull them the whole engine out most of the time you can pull just the heads off and if one cylinder is sucking oil do both of them we never do one we had thanks no sense we have I mean we've had that conversation here and we always do is it a nice fresh start if you have it all the part you might as well do everything because pulling an engine at just that just the doing an engine out let alone disassembling it to get to stuff exactly his is obnoxious you might as well do it right the others time spend the extra it'd be an extra hour by the time you pull the other head off spend the extra time spend the extra hundred bucks and the extra whatever so you don't have to spend more money and more time later now this is is is this factory the this is a part of your your PE yep so the the studs are our ARP there aftermarket studs but factory would also use studs but they were they referred to as a pedestal mount so you just brought the rocker they weren't adjustable they brought the rocker to a specified height and then was it there was no real adjustment after that I used these so I can I can adjust I take out with the with a fully adjustable rocker nuts and that you can take out all that extra tolerance ring a stuffed but those are the factory guide plates that are on here look at you showing off magical using the force more talking yep always in these heads we went through we cleaned up you know we ported did some mild porting that's right and I was mainly just cleaning up casting flaws and in the natural edge that you you get on the valve seat to the to the runner I'll drop a clip in of that yeah here for sure that was one of the things where I don't know that the shot just didn't work out yeah that we wanted it to be and until it's just we try to show everything but you know they're little sometimes things don't fit and that was one of the things to rate you'd spend what four hours man about four to six hours and per head head person I wasn't gonna sit around and watch you know heads already get the rest of the bits ready oh I forgot we had a little almost I was thinking we left the sneak peak to the very in buffer got this intake was here yeah yeah well it's kind of hinting at it you don't see the pretty obviously three of them going yeah boom into the timing cover which was that was a part that we had where that wasn't we did yeah we may have been one of them that we salvaged the stud we had to pull the stud out okay a little video or we oh that's right yeah there's a video where yes so we so as a for instance here so this is a little bit different than some of the motors so this has a separate timing cover that's that's proud a little more of the block than normal and it also integrates the housing for the water pump which we had to buy a steep plates plates were pain painful well the thing is is we had to you had to get it to a point where it wouldn't rub yeah on this yep and then we put a in improved flow water pump on it so those plates I'll give you this backup to give you the the full water pump where if it's a completely external pump you never see that but it's in there it's a good funny it's something like that you're never gonna see it though it still looks that cool but it's also it's it's anodized for corrosion I mean there's reasons behind because that's aluminum aluminum vane you have an acidic yeah so you want to have some sort of protection on there time for the heads yes now we Basin or I mean because of the way that this was and we didn't know what was what and everything you essentially ordered a hardware while bolt kit for everything yeah cuz there was it because we had such a mismatch of part of me of pieces and parts memory in that box mm-hmm it was hard telling what we had so we we just bought up an engine assembly bolt kit yep now what we're doing here if you back up just a little bit you notice that I put rocker arms on oh yeah there's not all the bolts are in you know you um actually when we were reviewing this video somebody's like it looks like he starts to do it and then he then he pulls them off if that is our continuity off here and I said no actually that's part of the yep told the process basically what I do I sub that so just like we did the checking the timing or degree in the camshaft you also want to verify your clearances from your lip or from your valves coming to it there max travel don't crash into the piston and there's appropriate space there so that's that's that pre-assembly function again all the all the bolts get some lube on them so they torque down appropriately and there's a torque sequence the reason is so it pulls it in typically torque sequences are from the center out illustration of actually top down the spiral in a counter in for whatever reason it's either counterclockwise or clockwise this one happens to be counterclockwise well that's exactly it so you just spiral out to the outside and it pulls everything down evenly that way and you and not only that but the torque sequence and that you can see that you do it multiple times you're not torquing it the first go all the way and the sec going all the way you're doing a little bit of the time yeah yeah so if it was I don't remember the exact torque and I but if it was 85 foot-pounds you'll do three steps to get to 85 so you might do 25 50 and 85 or something it's a breakdown of that now one of these days where I didn't have you around so I just had to ask the parts I'm pretty sure I was here for this no it's nice I just got to stand behind the camera hit the button once every 10 seconds or so again back to the assembly Lube everything's lubed up nice and well now something that's different about these roller I think this is the first roller motor we've done most of the time these lifters are individuals and they do not have this crossbar so these are so what with a roller left remember you have probably can't see it in the picture but you have a roller on the end of that lifter and it has to its cylinder so it has to be lined up with the camshaft you wouldn't it wouldn't work at all go in the other direction so the tie bar is what keeps the lifter from spinning so a normal fashion a flat tappet it will rotate where these don't they stay in they just purely go up and down and that tie bar keeps them from twisting cool and the reason for roller camshafts and reel is you can get them more aggressive cam profile and of course the less friction with a with a bearing and then likewise with our Howard's rocker arms they're full they have a roller fulcrum mm-hmm hey you can say roller on yeah it goes all the pushrods yeah so there you can see those trend push rods replace and now these nuts so these are your rocker nuts if you will and they have a they're actually call it double threaded so you have the big hex which gives you your adjustment function so that brings it up and down and then the center cap screw is is a lock function it locks the it drives to the top of the stud in the head and that that locks that from loosening up a rotating so instead of like factory would use a pinched nut you can kind of see them start disappearing down in adjusted what are you setting here so you're a so we're going to and you're rotating as you can see all the lifters and so here I'm adjusting lash so now this is a zero lash because it's hydraulic but you actually rotate it so you bring it to zero lash and then because it's hydraulic you give it depending on cam manufacturer and lifters a quarter to a half a turn which but it basically preloads that lifter by its like twenty to forty thousands roughly depending on thread pitch so that brings you in there that takes up that slop and they don't clatter and you getting the maximum lift at that point but you have to go through and you have to be at the at the bottom so you've got to make sure your your lifter is at the base circle of the camshaft so the big in of the egg if you will okay and that's why I have to rotate it obviously because they're all moving around and then this is a stock crank scraper or windage tray depending on who you talk to in the ideas in art that was in our bin of parts that was in our been apart yep so that was so so as that bolts down to the main caps it the idea is you pull oil that are that is slinging about the counterweights on the crankshaft it gets it off of there reduces drag and of course it gets into the pan it cools off quicker yeah of course a brand new oil pump it's silly to reuse an oil pump and a brand new oil pan because we didn't have one well we had one but it had a lotta crust to it it was pretty holy so this is this well you can see a little wrench that you had to use it was that awkward angle in there to get those things and even getting them torqued was kind of awkward and that was a one-piece seal opposed to a rubber seal opposed to a oh yeah I can we wrap that you clip in as well I didn't have it in here but I remember seeing it in the edit I can drop that clip in there of watching the gasket come in and yeah sit around the yeah the pan so pans on now I'm putting that is the oil filter adapter so some blocks like an affordable e the oil filter attaches directly to the block this has an adapter to bring it 90 degrees but that's stock that is stock guess and there's two options depending on what kind of exhaust you have on it this is our ram air exhaust factory exhaust but mean what they're remanufactured yeah remanufactured original originals style its what would be on there but they're brand new correct that's improved flow did they come that way and they in it are they so they come raw cast-iron and I have some high-tech paint that I use that actually goes on gold and then you bake it to like 550 600 degrees which I cannot do in my home oven so I take them to a shop here in town that does some powder coating and they'll bake it and it turns that gray color and it does not flake off nice like most of the spray paints here you have the fuel pump going in and then I rotate the crank shaft a little bit so I can get that's on a cam lobe as well so rotate the crank shaft just so I'm not fighting it to put it in because there's a spring in there yeah cuz well you got your arm that has a spring on it and then the balancer which balancer and pulleys all were stuff that we had yeah yes so this was I thought was a little interesting with the Pontiac so they do things a little different than I'm used to at least so on this one you have a as you back out here so initially stop back up right there so here you have a hub call it a hub adapter so you have a crank hub that goes on and gets torqued down then you have the pulley then the balancer ring now typically speaking oh I see okay typically speaking that balance or ring the bigger heavier section would just be part of the crank pulley but what this actually allows you to do is the pulleys can be tighter to the to the engine so it helps free up some packaging space and it does the same thing it doesn't care where it's as long as it's balanced and these are all internally balanced right now we're pouring in our our Pennzoil 20 used 20 W 50 it might be a little heavy for that but it'll be fine 20 yeah 25 50 and there were a few questions of folks asking why we weren't using a break in oil and that is because it's a roller cater so the beauty not only do you get ridiculous you have better performance from a roller cam you also don't have to go through that white-knuckled I hope 2500 rpm 20-minute break in period and you did everything explode yes yes so yeah well the roller cam because you're not trying to break in metal surfaces sliding against each other they're rolling and you don't you don't have that mating wear function and then this this process included this time-lapse included a very long we waited for oil to come out of this you know these little spots yeah so what I'm doing here I've run using a drill motor to spin the oil pump and you're priming the whole system so yes we have assembly lube on everything but you still run it up still prime everything you want to bring I mean look how long it took for the oil that come up the pushrods and get into all the nooks and crannies so yeah it would have been running for a minute or two at least yeah with no oil to the to the to the rocker arms and cooling the springs that's the other function of the oil at the topside so it's best to do this and then we finished by throwing the the brass plugs this is a valley pan here so this doesn't the intake manifold on some engines wool is the seals the valley where the lifters are at and and mates to your heads on this one they in similar to like the Hemi it has a valley pan that's separate and then the intake manifold now you you can see here you that you install this gasket but then you block off one of the ports what are you doing that for it yeah so factory heads always have a exhaust crossover so it takes exhaust gas to the center of the motor which accelerates the heating function of the engine so it basically is heating the carburetor up the center carburetor in this case so it comes up to a better idle quicker okay and so why did I miss the choke pull off and that I blocked it off because I didn't the heat into the intake manifold because when it's 200 in it when the engine comes up the temperature you're still heating that intake manifold even more and of course you put as fuel gets hotter you put less into the cylinders and power starts to go down so a typical thing is to block that off completely and that's just a performance thing in my it firing it up to begin with it's not gonna warm up as quickly but once it's yes and where you're the only place you're gonna see a negative side of blocking that off is starting it on a cold day like 20 degrees or lower zero which will not happen generally nowadays you're not firing up your GTO to go drive typically 20 degrees that's correct those are nice nice bolt together stainless yep what's or what kind of carburetors are these so these are Rochester Rochester two-barrel carburetors obviously three of them we bought this as an assembly at the Hershey swap meet all right so kind of a cool tie to cuz swap meets are a great place to find parts the carburetors were all refurbished ready to roll and had all the fuel line and everything you need yeah had all the fuel line had everything for it so completely disassembled it so we could paint the intake manifold to match the block and such and that is the right color for 66 not cheap no no not cheap but well worth it well there's nothing that looks cooler I mean face it nothing looks cooler than that tripartite now every one of these well the outside carburetors are different than the center one so that makes things difficult to find an end I was also part of the expense of it and and when you and maybe maybe this is a good time to talk about it when we talk about the the overall expense of putting this all together we've talked a lot about the extra little details we do the hey were here we might as well do it right but and and we talked about these this tripower setup being a hefty chunk of the overall oh yes cost of doing this yeah so let's I mean at this point we're done we're done the main stuff I mean we got to run wires and all that stuff though yeah we'll get to that yay fresh rebuilt engine gorgeous if viewers sit sitting here with the with similar whether it's boxes reports or or something sitting in the corner and they want to rebuild their 66 or 65 or 64 Pontiac like what are they looking at in terms of in terms of cost yeah so what we have on on our build we've figured out about we got about sixty five hundred into it that includes up obviously none of my our labor thanks for saying our I appreciate yeah well I mean I mean you did not yeah you did move this part around a complete but no so we have so but but that does include the machining cost and we don't we're not trying to shade anything relative to freebies and the machining into things it is what it is but I mean so that price would change based on the on the condition of your parts in general I mean that's obvious we had a cylinder yeah we had to sleep Center which is typically over and above I mean it's it's purely salvaging a block that's a 66 GTO block I mean that's why why we did that the you know the exhaust manifolds you could use stock ones you could buy headers cheaper than and I paid for these but it's just it's it's what we you know what's your after at that point and you certainly could do a swap meet find here for 20 30 bucks opposed to I think these were almost three yeah they were I mean there were a few things that we bought brand-new just because that if we had the time or whatever and we really wanted to we could have got an oil pan or and we could have gotten a tripower not completely done and ready for us well yeah we could have got that yeah exactly where we had to go through and refurbish it or we could have just flat-out put a I mean the cheapest way would have been just fine on any old stock four-barrel intake manifold and putting a four ball carb around that's that is the typically the cheapest route that's not info other things that we you know we got into it from we you wouldn't have to do the roller cam and the in the lifters are about 60% more price-wise than just a standard hydraulic camshaft in in rollers and then you know you wouldn't you'd get away with your you know stamped rocker arms you don't need to have the full rollers but the whole package makes sense at that point no we you know you could go to the flip side of that and you could buy aftermarket you know heads you could go aluminum which you know you could get into well sky's the limit quite honestly when you start going into that range and a lot of power is made right here heads airflow makes all the difference in the world you know we didn't get extravagant on rods we have forged pistons and they're custom because we wanted that compression ratio you could went to a different compression ratio you know lower most likely but you know we're this would you call as aside from going like super high performance or race or whatever if you're just looking for like this is going in back in a car this is it's gonna be at my daily driver we're on the high end of that I would say so yeah that sort of builds like and plus we see we didn't start with much yeah we didn't start yeah I mean these people be going to come with at least exactly the engine right this process yeah I mean at the end of the day we had we had pieces so we had we had a block way to crank we had rods and we had heads that's that's what we in some pulleys so we had we had that piece of things now at the end of the day you can you know can you freshen up if you had one of these is running and you need to just do a quick freshen up you could do it for probably 1,200 bucks meaning you bought rings and new gaskets and you ran a home through the cylinders but that's assuming you have something that runs fairly decent and you're just trying to get a little out of it not essentially garbage picking right trying to make something out of it right which is more fun it is and there's a certain satisfaction at the at the end of this were like yes you know not to submit to like hey your hero David no that's kind of I mean that's part of what Haggerty is all about is the idea of like saving driving and and like we're into cars you guys are into cars yeah like what's more fun than making something out of nothing oh man that's not the end of the day yeah and then you get into the final piece here we have is it's got a fire so it's got to have some ignition piece to it we get yelled at from people if we don't fire these things up that's what I hear static museum display I agree you want to hear this thing you want to hear this I won't order this thing roar here we could have went with stock distributor all those types of things the MSD distributor is nice because everything is contained under the cap it's an hei style meaning it's it has its it's not points it's electronic ignition it's cool wouldn't mean it looks like it belongs there like it does like it would have been there anything special about the plugs or the plug wires or anything like that no just uh just a I'll cause now standard eight millimeter plug plug wire and just a fuzz better plug as far as that goes but nothing and so it wasn't in terms of the cam that we put in there and anything there wasn't anything special that we had to do ignition this is just putting extension tubes on the exhaust there were some questions on the exhaust yeah so let's in on so on this note so on the exhaust that's that long piece of pipe are the stock available header pipes head pipes for a GTO okay so that made it nice I didn't have to go to the muffler shop and have anything custom bed so they're nice mandrel bends nice and smooth bolted up perfectly yeah that's exactly and happen to be stainless and then the and the the mufflers are flowmaster 44s they have personally a nice mellow mm-hmm mellow sound to them alright in goes some ninety-three boo again we're on our easy run test stand of this it is very versatile we've had what three four different motors on this now yeah with very minor really all you're doing is ever changing is the how it mounts to the block yeah it's all very modular you haven't had to do any real custom no anything all right don't start your engine with your timing light stuffed in the hole and those are factory holes by the way into that they weren't drilled in there separately into that bell housing that was to keep the the converters cool alright here we go that is the first attempt yes it's the fire while we talk about it I'm gonna keep it on maybe this right there looks like it's coming I'm right here but we I mean this is this is this is no there's no trickery here though no this is as is this was the first shot this was that was literally the first time you turned the key bit to be exactly right and at the end of the day what it amounted to there's extra fuel in it a little bit of a hiccup timing was only off by like four or five degrees it was not like 180 off like a normal or whatever so it had to be it was it had to be dead-on to be where it wouldn't do that for great it made for awesome video we met that would that was the icing on the cake for this thing is I mean me is the video guy I saw that happen and I'm just like yes not only did it happen but I got it on video and the shot that's good oh and your facial expression priceless I was I was shocked in and let's keep in mind some people tend to think that I'm not in my hazmat suit here so this is a problem I'm also not standing over the top of the carburetors because I know it will do that or can possibly happen yeah you know leaning over I love that you or your about you you were because of the let's call it maybe the general issues that we've had getting that the fire first time right with all the bills that we've had the the finding is you you know get the I thing there and then you're looking that you do the reaction before it back that's a career not backfires because my reaction is yes this is running hot damn you're giving me the hahaha yeah yeah little adjust little adjustment yep yeah I was there have been times where a week later we still don't quite have it running right and this yeah oh yeah finally it fire didn't just behaved and it sounded good mm-hmm upset the timing and that light is wonderful I love that time in life [Music] now based on based on everything all the different specs of CAM and pistons and all the stuff that you did what like what will this what will this cruise at what's its sort of redline yeah so get into some numbers here right you know stock wise this motor would have been right around 360 370 horse with 3d nine which is which is awesome what I'm looking at to be is a little closer to 400 so anytime I can get one horse per cube make some very nice Street engine now I'm not going to be setting the world on fire drag racing by any means but it's going to be fun let me smiles per hour its miles per mile how's that so so in in in keeping that theme they'll - as far as needing to be a streetable motor you know it's fairly mild on the it's a dual pattern camshaft meaning the exhaust and the intake aren't exactly the same okay so you know lift is a 52525 Pro 520 intake 525 on the exhaust and then the duration has got a little bit of a split to it as well and that gets into the overlap and a whole lot of weird theories of stuff and how it breathes at the end of the day low duration gives you torque is more streetable when you start to get in a much higher lift and a lot of duration you get a lot of our p.m. out of them but they're dogs on the street and that's where somebody says I overcame my engine oh you did because it's I can't move until it's 90 miles an hour and it's like holy smokes hanging on your hat but the idea is to keep it down at the bottom in yeah and then also this particular camshaft is a what they call for seven swap so the for seven swap is instead of the normal firing order you actually swap the firing order so for fires different the swap one four and seven swap there's fire in what what they found out is that by doing that the engine tends to run a little smoother and actually makes more power you get some exhaust scavenging that's a little bit better and it flows more air through the engine by doing that there have been questions what horsepower does a maker owe you need to put it on a dyno and we're going to try we know a guy that has an engine dyno we took the 289 down there so we'll put the 389 on the engine dyno and we'll see where it's at because obviously free-revving is different than under a load yep you know just like I don't anything sitting still you know in the car versus getting after it is a different thing so so there'll be some tuning function I'm sure at that point but at the same token yeah we won't let's put this on a dyno and see where we're at because a little bit of porting work goes a ways you know there's a couple you know a few little things to make things cleaner and better and it should run run and make a little more for more power then stop I guarantee you well if it's 600 horse you owe me lunch it's not going to be so that's that's pretty much it I think we've covered pretty much all that questions that came up and that's sorry but that's my serious I'm concentrating look how about that nice all right sweet think about congratulations on another yeah well done build Oh the video was very nicely done thank you episode editing is phenomenal it was one of the it was it was fun with all the stop-motion stuff and I know it's just fun putting these together it is I agree you enjoy your job I enjoying my job it all comes together with something that we're pretty proud of so yes for sure thanks for watching guys have you made it this long hope you learned something subscribe like comment all that fun stuff and we'll be back in another couple months with another redline rebuild in the meantime check out 1/500 check out DIYs check out why drives we got lots of cool stuff check it out see ya

Channel: Hagerty

Views: 391,205

Rating: 4.860837 out of 5

Keywords: Hagerty, Classic Car, Classic Cars, Pontiac, GTO, 389, horsepower, Poncho, LeMans, Le Mans, engine rebuild, engineer, engineering, mechanic, explained, explainer, how to, DIY, BTS, behind the scenes, engine, motor, fix, repair, Tri-power

Id: wtSPVMScEgw

Length: 81min 38sec (4898 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 31 2018