How we rebuilt our VW Beetle engine | Redline Rebuilds Explained

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(bouncing, thumping beat) - Hi, I'm Davin Reckow with Hagerty, and I'm the dirty hands behind these videos. This is my cohort Ben, with the clean hands behind the camera. Today, we're gonna go through our Volkswagen rebuild video, and we're also very glad to see that you liked it sofar, but here are some of the inside track on it. - [Ben] We're happy that you guys got a kick out of our little joke. Yes, we do know that the engine is in the back. (Davin laughs) - [Davin] But how do you not start it off with that? - [Ben] Exactly. - [Davin] Yes, to address some of the questions and concerns about this Beetle, it is a kludge of parts, that's for sure, relative to the year that it is and different taillights, and bumpers, etc. That doesn't take away the fun of driving this Beetle, and the enjoyment that we both actually share. - [Ben] We did run the VIN finally, which I don't know why we didn't do it before. It is a '73, so thanks to all the commenter, for pointing that out. What are we looking at here? - [Davin] Here's the underneath, getting the engine out. I found that a tyranny jack worked phenomenal for doing this because of the square pan at the bottom. You can see, it has decades of leaks that have accumulated on both the transaxle, and the bottom of the engine, but preserving it from rusting, so that's good, with the exception of surface rust on the suspension. - [Ben] We had lots of people commenting that we were cheating by doing it this way, that we should have had it up on blocks, and dragging it out with the dolly. - [Davin] I've bench pressed plenty of transmissions, and I tell you what, if you have access to the tools, I don't find that cheating. But hey, to each their own. - So, we'll get this guy out of here, and on we go to the rebuild. The general thing with these engines, is everybody says, "Oh, it's easy to drop 'em out. "They're easy to rebuild. "They're so simple, air cooled," that sort of thing. What, I meant there's four bolts to undo there? - [Davin] Yeah, there's four bolts to hold it in, and then a splash pan is all that's really there. I think we had roughly an hour, hour and a half, in doing it, and that's moving around for filming. So can you have it out in 15, or a half hour? Absolutely. If you've done it before. This is the first time I ever done it, so at an hour and half, I'm fine with it. - [Ben] What are you taking off here first? - [Davin] So, the first thing I was getting out, I had left the exhaust on it. Actually taking it out in the car would have been a pain my mind, so I left the exhaust on it. The heat exchanger is the big piece that goes up underneath the valve. The valve cover right there with the little loop. That is how you get heat to the front of the car. It basically runs the exhaust fan or a blower fan that blows through the tubes, and then up into the rocker panels of the car. - [Ben] Off go the heat exchangers, and this thing had all sorts of shrouding. - Oh yeah, yeah, yeah. In fact, it's interesting because as your pulling it apart, you're thinking, wow this thing is air cooled. Well hell, air can't even to the cylinders, because of all the shrouding. But the shrouding is there for the routing off of that fan blower going around. That washer. Look, that washer's right there Ben. I'm not sure why we couldn't find it when we couldn't put it back together, but hey. - They even had to manufacture that little cone washer to put our pulley back on, because it got lost in the-- - [Davin] It got eaten somewhere in the shop. - [Ben] Lost the mix somewhere So, Davin, you were taking the carburetor off here, but there was a funny issue that the carburetor had in regards to the throttle linkage. - Yeah, the way everything was set up, it was only getting quarter throttle. - Anyway, we shot a little clip, while we were taking this apart to show you. So, here that is. - So basically, I think we can double the horsepower by simply allowing the carburetor to open all the way. So, it's going about here on the pedal, but that's why it opens. You can see that the angle that this is all at, won't allow it to go to wide open throttle. Well first off, this is on the wrong side. It should be over here, I'm gonna say, based on where it comes out through the fan side of things. Put the spring on this side, but it almost needs a extension on here, to where it's out this way, so it's a straight pull. That would allow it to go to wide open throttle. Right now it won't. - [Ben] All right, so carburetor comes off, plug up more bits. - [Davin] The coils out. Just kinda stripping things down to get to the brass tax of the engine. - [Ben] So this is all interesting, just in terms of how it was all kind of woven together, which thing to take off first. - [Davin] Yeah, there definitely is a sequence to put things back together. So you have to pull the one side intake runner to get the main intake out, but, of course, you almost have to pull the generator off as well. Yeah, it's wound together, and, of course, that intake system, it's functional, but it's not all the efficient, I wouldn't believe. - [Ben] Which is why a lot of people who hop up these things do the dual webers. - The dual webers, yep. Now we're pulling off that upper shrouding on top of the cylinder head. Pulling the pulley off, the main crank pulley. - As you went here, like you said earlier, this was your firs time too. We kind of in this disassembly, it's like, while we're working over here, that's not gonna come off, we gotta do this on first. - [Davin] Exactly right. Yeah, there was a couple spots where you had to remove a bolt to get to one shroud, but then you couldn't get to the second one. - [Ben] Then speaking of bolts, out comes the torch. - Yeah, so with anything, there's always gonna be a bolt here or there that you gotta heat up. This one happened to be in the head. We heated that up and we're able to work on those cars. So, they a slot-headed screw to begin with, so that doesn't make it any more fun. At least it wasn't a Phillips, so that was a benefit. All right, so there's the valve cover. It's got like a little piece of bailing there to hold it down. Here's your shaft rocker assembly, which wasn't really expected. I was expecting individual rockers, but a shaft rockers definitely appreciate high rpm better than the individual. Then your push rods. Then you can see in this shaft that the valve covers were leaking a little bit, that's why you've got that grime on top of the-- - [Ben] Gadget. - [Davin] Intake, or right up the intake. Here's the long and short studs. - Well, what was your first start? I mean, we're coming off doing the Harley, which we pulled the cover off, and it was a mangled piston, so at least we didn't have that. - Yeah, we're happy to say that we didn't have that. There's no holes in the top of the pistons. A lot of crud on top for a running Motor, a decently running motor. You saw, I through out dowel capper just to see where the bore was at, because I personally was impressed at how big the bore was. The bore size on this was what, 94 millimeters? - [Ben] Which isn't stock for this. These are bigger than-- - [Davin] It is not stock, yeah. It's got oversized jugs in it. So instead of being a 1600 cc, it's a little over 19. - Gotcha. This one, I remember, sitting here with this, and we couldn't fight out why each individual jug wouldn't come off, and there ended up being a washer jammed in between those ridges in the slot, in the cooling vents, or the cooling ribs. - [Ben] So you had to pull them off at the same time, it was very confusing, and then we look in there like, oh yeah, there's this little washer jammed in there. All right, so the other side, pretty much exactly the same. - Except one jug at a time. No washer holding them together. - [Ben] At this point, you're thinking pretty straight forward. - [Davin] Yeah, should be. - [Ben] I found this interesting. This was a kitchen strainer. - [Davin] The kitchen strainer for a filter, which there is an aftermarket function you can get for to add a filter, a remote filter to it. - [Ben] Okay, now what are ya doing? - [Davin] This was the oil pump. Yes, that's right because it had the metal cover, and the oil pump, and then the aluminum piece that's kinda jammed in there to some extent. There's a special tool to utilize. We tried to-- - [Ben] You mean it's not a hammer and screwdriver. - [Davin] Nah, probably not the best place to start. We were gentle. There's a difference between gently prying, and getting nuts. - [Ben] There you got it off. - [Davin] Yep. We got it out of here. Pretty straight forward from that site. I mean, the reason they had to do that is because putting it down on that end, you have that parting line of the new case, so you'd have no way ever be able to seal that to create a good pump, so that's why that separate piece is there. - [Ben] What are we doing here? - [Davin] Just pushing things down to get the pistons out. The pistons are a floating pin, so they're not pressed into the rod, and it's just a matter of taking the C clip out of there, and then knocking the wrist pin out. - [Ben] Okay, so now were splitting the case. - [Davin] Yeah, so these are two case halves that come together, so you got modified engine stand here, enough to hold one side of the case and not both. The reason we're prying this part two is there's some locator dowels, that you're trying to lift off of there. They're not pressed, but they're definitely snug, and then of course, the sealant just has some general block sealant between 'em. - [Ben] I remember this is weird kinda goin around being like, did we miss a bolt, because it was a bit of a struggle to get it separated. 'Cause there isn't a gasket but you would put some type of-- - [Davin] Yeah, just some sealer. - [Ben] Sealer in there. Now what are we looking at? - So here's all the guts, so you got on the bottom side of the screen here, with the big gear in it, that's your cam shaft. It's two pieces, but it's not bolted together. The factory ones are riveted, the big gear to the cam, and then your crank on the other half. You can see the lifters are underneath the cam shaft here, and when we lifted the one-half off, of course, lifters fell out. I remember we were like, how, wow, I wonder how we're gonna hold those in when we do it, but there is only one way to do it, and you have to have 'em in there. - [Ben] So out come the lifters. - [Davin] And there's your crank craft assembly. - [Ben] What were you digging out of there? - That was the distributor, distributor gear shaft. So, you got your main distributor, piece, and then you go a short drive shaft for it. Then pulling the bearings out of the case shaft. - [Ben] Okay, we're off then engine stand, but still a little more disassembly to go. - [Davin] Well, I had planned on pulling and replacing the stud, so started taking those out. Used the torch once again to heat it up. I'm pretty confident this is a magnesium case, which in some worlds magnesium heating up could be a problem, but it's only the powder that burns, not the chunks, the big chunks, so I wouldn't really worried about an uncontrollable fire in my shop. So we're heating things up, and making it stinky, and double knotting to get them out. - This is when we had our first inkling of uh-oh. - There was I don't know how many. I mean they have an insert anyway, where you can see here, the insert is coming out. - Right here. - So, you got the insert that's into the aluminum block. You gotta have something steel to hold onto for the heads, head bolts. Eventually there's one that was just JB welded in, so it didn't unscrew, it just pulled out. I was like, "Oh boy, it might be the very last one." - [Ben] Yeah, you were scraping at it, you heated it. Yeah (chuckles). - Yeah, there it is, yeah there it is. - You can see there's no coil on it anywhere. - It's a chunk of JB weld. - [Ben] At that point, were like "Ooh." - [Davin] Yep. This had a lot of different issues as far as the spacers, and how the hela coals that were in it. The jug wasn't actually sealed to the block, there was a gap. I mean, it had miraculously ran. I'll put it that way. - [Ben] Yeah, it felt like one of those things where the sludge that was on it was the only reason it was still right. - So, here, I'm taking the rods off the crankshaft, different than normal V8s that we have been working on where the crank shaft would be set into the block, mains caps torqued down, and then you put the rods, and these are the opposite, if you will. It's about like a snow mobile from that standpoint. - [Ben] We have the whole assembly. - [Davin] Yeah, have the whole assembly and put it in. Then you have main bearings that are diameters that slip on, pulling off right there. Then you have the brass deal is your gear for the distributor. Then your timing gear, and then another bearing which those are all pressed on to some extent, and then that bearing will just slip off. Likewise, on the bearings on the other end. So, different than other engines that I've worked on, where normally here in the center where we've got a half shell, so you have two halves of a bearing, normally you'd put one in the block, and one in the cap. Then you'd tighten everything down. This you had diameter bearings of foot complete diameters, that would slip on the ends and then only the bearing in the center, which going through this found, and it makes complete sense based on the two halves. So you would take the case, put it assembled together, go in and mike everything out, which we did on this case, and determined what the OD of the bearing is, then, based on the crank, then you'd find out what the idea of that bearing needs to be. Typical circumstance is the OD, is the OD, that normally doesn't change, but the ID changes relative to the crank being turned. This has actually two areas of adjustment to make parts work. Then there's also, and you can just see it in the bearing over here by the timing gear, there's oil holes, and then there's a locator hole, or basically an anti-rotation hole. There's a subsequent pin in the block that keeps them from spinning relative to the block. Then to the far left there's the shims that you use between the flywheel and the crank, so you set your in play of the crankshaft right to left, down the block. - So define and play what's the problem with not saying that, and-- - Well if you have too much in play, basically, you'll wipe out your thrust bearing on the rear main right here. Typically there'd be a flange on the crankshaft that would hold it moving right to left, or down the block if you will. These shims basically do that, and that gap was tight. Roughly, it's like two or three valve if I remember right. It was really tight. You use a dial indicator on it. That's later on in the assembly, but this kind gives you a nice breakout of where it's at. Here's our progressive weber, basically to give it a freshen while we're here, clean it up, and make it look a little nicer as well, and replace any nasty bits in any of this. - [Ben] Now we opened this up, and it was full of crap. The poles were just filthy, rusty. I mean chunks of stuff. - [Davin] Chunks of stuff. I can't believe, it's one of those that you open it up, and like, how did this run smooth at all. - [Ben] When we drove it 2500 miles, and it went 75 miles an hour at a quarter throttle (chuckles). Then off to Thirstily there we go. - [Davin] So at Thirstily we polish the crank. Basically they're taking any ridges out of it, but you change the diameter slightly but still within the zone, if you will of not being turned, if that makes any sense. - [Ben] Gotcha. - [Davin] Just a pure polish. - [Ben] So, we left it up to Mark to pivot, and disassemble the heads for us. - [Davin] Yeah, we kinda threw that on his plate. From what we can tell, as well, based on the valve sizes, these heads are actually off a Porsche. - [Ben] If that's true, it would of come off of like a what, a 912, or a 356? - [Davin] Yeah. Whatever Flat 4 would be. Here's he's heating up the guys. They give them out, which you heat up the aluminum a little bit, it swells enough, and they tap off pretty easy then. - [Ben] We were originally thinking he was just gonna do some cleanup on it, but it ended up being... - [Davin] Yeah, the seats were shot. - [Ben] The guides I think were the main issue. - The guides were really bad, yeah. When the guides are bad, it causes that valve to do this inside the guides which slams the... It slams the seat. It doesn't hit centered every time. - [Ben] We made him put them back together for it. - [Davin] Yes. That's one of the reasons I didn't pull those apart is my valve screen compresser wouldn't reach, without heavy modification. - [Ben] Now he's pressing out. - [Davin] So, we replaced the bushings on the little end, so that's what he's doing here, is he's pushing the bushings out, put fresh ones in. - [Ben] Yep, they're getting pressure. Then what's he doing here? - [Davin] So here he is. He's cleaning up the big end of the rods, honing and resizing them. - [Ben] Making sure they're circular. - [Davin] Yep. Taking any oval out of 'em. - [Ben] And sizing them to what they need to be with whatever. - [Davin] Yes, and making sure they're to spec, as well, Not hadn't been oversized. He'll do the same thing with the small end as well, which is what he's doing here, so that brand new bushing, by the nature, it's always a little bit, call it undersized, or a little small, so he's setting it to the size, and then, of course when you push things in and out, you can disturb the edges of them, just a little bit, and that takes any of that out of it. - [Ben] You gotta rebuild kit, essentially to put all new bits in here. - Yep, yep, a complete rebuild kit, all the gaskets, the jets, and that type of stuff, are reused but they're cleaned out real well. You can see, I have a brass, the key here is there's a brass brush, and you wanna use brass, because it takes off the gunk, but not remove any material. You don't wanna add any scratches, you don't have to. You can still see in the bottom of that bowl, there's still a little gunk left, and that does get cleaned out before we reassemble that. - [Ben] It was just filled wsigth crap. - [Davin] Yeah, that stuff was more staining than it is actual chunks floating around. So fresh gaskets, all the screws goes back in, evenly tighten them around. You can see, I put a little of actually wheel bearing grease on the threads. You're going into aluminum, steel and aluminum just makes sense. You could use anything from a lubricant. I've used wheel bearing grease obviously, Vaseline, anti-seize, anything, just to put something there, and then a clean up, and there it is. - [Ben] Now the fun stuff. - So here's the crankshaft, as we mentioned before. It has to go in the block halves as an assembly, so you have to assemble everything here. - Now you've put it on the flywheel. - I put it on the flywheel simply to stand it up. You could do it laying on a table. Actually I found it was very handy, instead of it rolling around. - [Ben] Wait, was this the one? - [Davin] Yeah, there's something to note here. You'll notice that I had a little, I'll call it flung the rod, after I put it on. The reason I did that is the first time we put the rod bearings on, it didn't fling. - [Ben] It just clamped onto the... - [Davin] The crank was standard size, and we had 10 under bearings, so there was a mass of interference, right about seven thousands. Yes, for those of you watching, no initially, I did not check. I would of caught that if I would have put one bearing in and miked out the crank. The second time I miked the crank, and miked the bearings. I think that's the first time I haven't done that. - [Ben] I think that was just sort of like we assumed that the right part got ordered. - [Davin] Yep we did. - [Ben] And, they didn't, so we've got the right pieces. - [Davin] Which that's a cardinal sin, because you always make 'em, regardless of the right one, blah, blah, blah. - [Ben] 'Cause they might send you the wrong one. - [Davin] It bit me right there. - [Ben] They might accidentally send one of the wrong ones, and three of the right ones. - When we talked in our description, that just because everyone says, "Ah, these are the easiest things ever." They're the easiest things ever when it goes right. When it goes wrong, they're just as crappy as anything else. - [Ben] Same thing said for Chevy small block. - [Davin] Absolutely, right. - [Ben] Or really any engine, but the ones that have the common sort of, "Oh, they're so easy, yeah." Yeah they're easy until they aren't. - Right. Everybody on the couches aren't doing 'em, 'cause they're not that easy. They're not a bag of chips. This is after we went through the, "Oh, your crank case is no good. We're like, "Oh no." - [Ben] So, speaking of the crank case. - [Davin] Here it is. - [Ben] Here's our fancy new one. - [Davin] This is a brand new MP crankcase, aluminum built, way heavier than the stock one, which bit us on a couple spots, but only from a clearance standpoint, but it's a lot beefier case. It comes line honed. It's all ready to assemble. I did have to clean it. I rinsed things out and got some bits out of, from shipping and that. It's got beautiful steel inserts in there, that are not JB Welded into this case, so a couple cool things like that. Actually, in one of the spots, you could see right where the hold down clamp, it looks like I've already hit that. See the hold down clamp there, and the-- - Right here? - Right here. That was one area that had the clearance with diagrander, because the case was beefier right there. There were plenty of meat to work with, just the clamp I had, I had to clearance it so it sat down Flush. Otherwise it was kicking up. - [Ben] We did, as we come into this new case here. The reason we did get the new case wasn't just because of those JB Weld things to be pulled out of there, we took it to the shop to have it checked, to see if we could reuse it, and they basically told us no. We got a quick clip of Dave explaining that, so here it is. - So after we carefully taken apart the engine block and separated everything out, got our stuff apart. We started doing the inspections. A couple of critical areas in here are the journal for your crankshaft, and the journal for your camshaft. These can be honed, align honed after they're assembled, both journals. Then bearings purchased accordingly. Of course, bearings are only offered in certain sizes, and what we found on our inspection was these journals have already been taken to their max, plus you'll see that there's been some damage to the journals, specifically the pin that holds the bearing from rotating, and this one has been completely been wiped out. If you remember, we had to use a torch in a couple areas to get studs out. We had some pretty ugly inserts that have already been put in here, and been replaced, and pretty nasty. So whatta you do when you have problems with a block? In this case, you do this right here, a brand new one, all beautiful, shiny, perfectly machined, and ready to be assembled. The other case was ugly. - Yeah, it was. - [Davin] It's seen all of its life. So here were' putting in the head studs. You see I'm wiping off the excess, but using some aviation sealer to hold those in. High Tack is another version of that. The idea is it seals them for oil leakage, and locks 'em in place. - [Ben] Now you're getting ready to drop the crank in, and the cam shaft. - Yep, rods are on. You see now the camshaft. That's a brand new camshaft. Again, there was nothing wrong with the stock camshaft that was in it, other than it didn't compliment the bore, so the bigger bore size, you might as well take advantage of a little more lift on the camshaft, in different durations, so it'll fuel it better. It has an aluminum bolt on, timing gear, and you can see brand new lifters. There are the brand new main bearings, and camshaft bearings, just using a little assembly lube, so it's on there when everything goes back together. Put the timing gear back in. I'm sorry, the timing gear and the distributor gear. So there goes the lifters into that half, which is easy, because they're on the downside, so they're gonna stay where they need to be at, set the crankshaft in, obviously making sure the rods go through the hole in the bottom, making sure that those dowel pins are lined up for the main bearing so they don't spin. Putting in the last, or the center bearing, which I got it lubed up, but you can see it's not there. That half goes into the other case half, lock tightening in the bolts for the camshaft, torque 'em down, again lubing up the cam lobes for initial fire up. Here is the lifters for the other half. Now, I mentioned earlier that we were concerned how we're gonna hold them in there. Actually what happened was really nice, is they typically don't ride all the way in. They ride, I don't know a hundred thousands up, but when you push them in, just that hundred thousands more, there's just enough bite, just enough resistance in the case, that they hold them so when you flip 'em upside down they stay there, and then you can just push them down into place. - [Ben] Okay, so on goes... - [Davin] So here's the case half sealant, so wiped everything down. Everything is clean. There's no burs, all that type of stuff, and just putting a real thin layer on all the surface that come together. Again, there's some aliment pins and everything. You can see that case half syncing together. In goes the oil filter strainer - From the back your getting the pistons ready, go. - We ordered pistons, and didn't think anything about the price, because it was reasonable for four pistons. When we got the pistons, the pistons had the rings on them already. Of course, it came with wrist pins, but it also came with new jugs. It was like, "Wow, that was dirt cheap for pistons and jugs. It was under $400, and I was like, "Wow, that's crazy." - So, we didn't need to replace the jugs. - No the jugs didn't need to be replaced, but at that point, we got free machining by buying a brand new jugs, so it just made sense to use 'em. So, here's the only trick if you will, and you can see it in the background. We put the piston into the jug with the ring compressor first. Then slip it down over, push the wrist pin through, so through the piston into the rod, then of course across the other side. One clip is already in the piston, and then here I'm just putting the last clip in, that holds that wrist pin from coming out. - [Ben] There goes the pin. Now the pin's in, and there's the clip. - What you were doing in the background there was you were adding a little bead of, so that's a little separate. Just before I put the pistons into the jug, speaking with a Volkswagen officinado, he recommended to take instead of using any of shims and all of that, because I had already set my head height, on that top end where my hand's at. We had machined those. But, any rate, to get the right compression, so then when I set that in there, I put a bead of high temperature silicone, the orange alter seal. - Around here, right. - Yep, right at the corner if you will, the cylinder jug to the fins, - [Davin] The ray where it meets here. - [Ben] Right where it meets there, yep. That is to seal that up right there, because you're really only sealing... You're sealing some crank pressure, but for the most part. It's not a normal head gasket, or thought process of a head gasket, it is just sealing the oil. So, by doing that, that puts enough sealant there, without getting ugly, and you might be able to see it when it pushes in. I put it just in the corer. I remember a couple spots where you could see it. There you go. So, you can just see the orange that pushed dowel. - [Ben] Now what are these going on here? - [Davin] These are very fancy push rod tubes. - [Ben] I thought it was cool when they tie mikes here, as he tightened it down, you can see those little areas compress. There it goes. - [Davin] Yep. Now this is the first set of cylinders we've put on, ever. This is the first time I have ever done this. For those that know, we'll see that I did not put in the shroud. There is absolutely no way to put the shroud in after you put head on in the tubes. A couple commenters caught that. - A couple commenters caught it, and they were 100% right. On the second set, I caught it when we went to do the second set of cylinders, I put it on the second set, and I had to come back and pull the head off, basically redo this sequence. I didn't obviously pull the cylinders off, and then slid that in there. So, in the car, it is there. Something else I want to note too that we powder coated the valve covers. Pretty much anything that matte black, has been powder coated. Reason for that is it holds up way better than paint. Now, I don't believe this engine's gonna get over 400 degrees, and have any issue with the plastic of the powder coating, so if it does, then we probably got different problems. - [Davin] Yeah, if the the valve covers are getting up to 400 degrees, then we definitely have some issues. So same thing on the other side. - [Ben] You can see that red goop again. There it is. - [Davin] Look at that, there's the shield That's on the other side. - [Davin] I shouldn't say it's a shield, it is part of the cooling system. - [Ben] When it comes down to drive it across the bottom side of that. - [Davin] So, there's a rocker assembly on there. You can see, I set the valve lash right in there. There's the fuel gauge setting the valve lash. We didn't necessarily show the wrench on there rotating the crank shaft. I have to set everything correctly. - [Ben] All the bit so you'd only catch in a frame. - [Davin] Yes. - I guess, I would say a lot of the comments that we get on these in terms of how we did these, is usually in regards to stuff that we did, but because of the nature of the videos. You're just not gonna see, or they're just mundane enough that it's like, "Well there's no point in shooting. ♪ Dun, dun, dun ♪ - Yes, you gotta have the book out. Only because the first time it has a half load type of function, or an off center mark, and it was just a question for me of where does everything need to line up. Depending on the year that we don't know, and depending to this, that and the other thing, there's about four different positions of where it could be at, and at the end of the day, I need to make a judgment call of what it needed to be. So here we're getting that in there, and what the flashlight's doing in there is "I'm looking and making sure I'm getting everything lined up, because there's a shaft, a spring, and then the distributor has to line up to everything as you go in there. Then you have the nice hold down clamp for the distributor. Oil pump goes back in. - [Ben] What kind of goop are you using? A little bit of that. Again, that aviation, sealer, gasket make, type of stuff. Then gears go back in, and filled it with lithium grease. and the idea there is it picks up faster as far as the pump is concerned. - [Ben] Meaning the pump turns into a pump faster. It's got more suction to get the ore moving. - [Davin] Exactly. We opted to reuse the kind of an ugly oil cooler. The adapter and everything is cleaned up, and I flushed out the oil cooler really well, and was happy with that. - [Ben] I think we had a comment, or somebody sent us an email, that said that their company remakes or refurbishes-- - [Davin] Which I have now on the list, so that'll happen next time. A fuel pump went in here to the right, and then the stand for generator is what's on the farthest right. - [Ben] Also the oil fill tube too. - [Davin] Yes, and the oil fill is part of all that assembly there. There you can see it really well. - [Ben] Yeah that oil cooler is kinda heinous, isn't it. - [Davin] Yeah it is. But it works - That's right. It goes away here in a little bit. End up with pretty much all brand new shrouding, just because the other one had some tabs that were beat off, broke up, and it wasn't worth repairing them for $30. - [Ben] These are all... Again, they were brand new. I bead blast them, and had them power coated, so they'll hold up a little better. The paint that was on 'em was pretty thin. Crank pulley back on. I mean it's starting to look good again here, if you will. - But now you can see, we have both of those. - Yes, there we go, proof, right there. So there's one there, and one there. We redeemed ourselves there before it went in the car. These are what we were just talking about, is this bottom heat duct shrouding for the cooling in the bit. They were flat, pretty much, in a vendor put in position. They weren't ridiculous, but it took a little effort to get there. - Now we're nearing the end here. - Nearing the end, so now I'm putting the big heat exchanger back on. That actually has a high temperature paint put on them, that's gold when you spray it on. Then you bake it to 550 degrees, and it turns that gray, and that is the best coating I've ever found for exhaust. - [Davin] So here we're putting the fan all back together again, and everything was stripped and shot. - Now this was a fun process. This was a fun process because it was not happy. For whatever reason that shroud wound up, or the fan itself wanted to rub on the shroud. There was a lot of shimmying and cussing. So again, if you look right there by the distributor in my hand, there is a rod end and that little linkage piece. That's the key to getting the-- - Look at this guy, which the old intake manifold did not have. - The old intake manifold did not have that, so what was happening is as the cable came out of the fan shroud, it was coming up at a 45 degree angle to the carburetor, and pulling down, but it has to go past the six o'clock position to go to full throttle. This rectified that. You'll see it here again when we get the carburetor on, but that little cast in bond, was the key to all this. We reused the fuel pump. It was fine. Obviously, the distributor, so those two pieces show a little wear there, and the generator is good. Freshly reloaded carburetor on there, a long search for the washer to go here, but fabricated all the nice one. It looks good. - [Ben] It looks good we painted it. So last step now is to get the exhaust on. I don't remember what that brand was. Somebody asked, and I'll have to get it. - I got it through Apple Tree in Michigan. - [Davin] All right. - [Ben] So here's running the ignition wires over to the correct area, and figuring out how we wanted to lay the fuel line, based on for all intents and purposes, whoever was not designed to go on this engine. It's on backwards, if you will. Because your choke adjustment, and your fuel intake is on the back side, against that shroud, and it is a pain in the monkey to do it, especially to adjustment it. This is where it's handy that it's light, - And handy that there's a video guy there. - Although I want to look at the look on that video guy's facing going, "Holy cow. "This is the heaviest camera I've ever lifted." (Davin laughs) Now here, this is were I was talking about. We've set me in play, so there's the gauge. I got the flywheel on. I've got it torqued out. Now I don't have it torqued down to crazy number that needs to be yet. I've just taken up the slack. - [Ben] Oh, is that me trying to murder you there? - [Davin] It looks like Ben's trying to take me out. - [Ben] I was bringing you a hammer. - [Davin] You were bringing me the hammer, because I use an aluminum plate to put the rear main seal in after I had checked and knew what kind of shims I needed in there to get that endpoint correct. I didn't happen to have the right clutch alignment tool, so I had to turn one on the lathe. I didn't worry about any spines, because I just used the diameter. Diameter, diameter's the same thing. - [Ben] That's why you're special, because if we don't have a part, you just make it. - [Davin] Just make it. That's right. - [Ben] There's that, - [Davin] That is all stainless. It functions fully like the original stuff does, but I'll tell you what, the flow is a lot nicer, and it sounds good. - [Ben] I love the fact that this engine sitting there. You could just start it up sitting there if you wanted to. - [Davin] Oh, absolutely. Yeah, absolutely. - [Ben] There's no radiator to hook up. - [Davin] No nothing. - [Ben] It's all right there. - [Davin] Yeah, it's all there. - [Ben] I mean you just basically need fuel, and-- - [Davin] Put the battery into the spin it. Yeah 'cause the starter bolts to the transmission side of it, but-- - [Ben] Now we're back on the training jack. This right here is where two more inches would have been fantastic, and it has nothing to do with the other exhaust, 'cause it was equally as a bear to get that little piece out right there. - [Davin] What the time doesn't show, is us spending like a half an hour finagling things to get it lined up. - [Ben] Instead it's like, "Oh look, we did this in five minutes. We're pretty much wrapping things up here. - [Davin] Yep, everything's wrapped up. Timing set, we broke the engine in right, between that shot. - But you know, it's Hollywood. We gotta make a play. You guys don't wat to sit there for 20 minute watching us break it in. - [Davin] That's not real impressive. I don't think either. - [Ben] So it's off you go. - [Davin] Off we roll. (VW engine purs) Glad you're still watching. We've got more things to come. As you noticed, or may not have noticed, in the shop there's some where's Waldos in there, a couple of the projects, and a couple of things up our sleeves as well. Not in that shop. - Yep we have a couple maybe out of the ordinary for what you've seen so far, for the red light and rebuilds, but leave comments. If you have any more questions about this video, or if you have any suggestions for what engines we should be working on. I know we've gotten comments about doing a Chevy big block, a Ford 289, straight six, straight 8. Some people ask for a Porsche engine. I mean, isn't that the same thing as what we just did. - Pretty close. - It's just two more cylinders. Thanks for watching. We'll see you next time. - [Davin] See ya. (engine roars)
Info
Channel: Hagerty
Views: 504,453
Rating: 4.8569717 out of 5
Keywords: Hagerty, Classic Car, Classic Cars, volkswagen, vw, air-cooled, samba, beetle, bug, baja bug, engine, motor, mechanic, rebuild, rebuilt, time-lapse, time lapse, timelapse, commentary, how-to, how to, DIY, flat 4, flat four, car, driving, cylinders, block, pistons, bore, hone, machine
Id: viWM1l_U4Pc
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 44min 7sec (2647 seconds)
Published: Wed Apr 11 2018
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