How to tile a bathroom/shower wall, a beginners guide. Tiling made easy for the DIY enthusiast!

hi welcome to post around the house in this video I'm going to show you how to tile a wall the things you're going to need to tile a wall or a good title travel you're going to need a sponge a bucket and some water and you're going to need some tile spacers there's my pack of spacers these ones a three mil it's up to you which ones you use that's the 3-mile spacer you're going to need some sort of float for grating up I've got that one which is a bit like a squeegee and this is handy for getting into small corners I've also got that one and that's what floated up at the end you I've also got this which is the same as the trowel but this is handy just to get into small corners as well you're going to need some form of tile cutter I'm using a 500 mil Victrix manual tile cutter this is a great brush kids I bought this from screw fix it was worth twenty twenty five pound another thing you need for this job is a good spirit level the longer the better really as long as it fits into the gaps you want and you'll be using this to mark out centre lines for your tiles and it's also very good when you're tied in the wall to put against your wall and ensure that you get as level as possible today I'm using this title cement it's coming on offer and screw fix 10-pounder term which is a bargain says show up roof high grab non-slip now I've used this before in a bathroom and it's brilliant it's cheap it grabs the tiles brilliantly it's excellent to work with the term will cover approximately six square metres and depends on how thick your applying it if you've got wonky walls and you've gotta fill out gaps a bit obviously allowing for a bit more the rough guide I would expect this to do me about four and a half square meters any tiling it's very important to get your preparation right if you get your prep right it should all go smoothly when you're tiling you want to reduce your wastage we also want to bear in mind the aesthetics and how good it looks to the eye so generally you want your tiles to look central so if you're not be home in here I'm going to have a shower quadrant a quadrant it's going to go to here now I'm using these which is a pattern tile and I want these centrally at the middle and they're going to be surrounded by plain tiles so going to make sure we start from the center out it's no good starting from a wall coming across and then you find that you can't fit these in century for the first thing we're going to do is measure this line shower and fit in here is an 80 centimeter quadrant or 800 mil but we're going to take into account that I'm tiling down the wall onto the shower tray so that's going to take up about 10 15 mil cuz my tiles are 10 mil thick and then I have some tile adhesive which may well be up to about 5 mil thick or less it depends so we're going to allow a little bit for the wall coming out this way a touch okay coming towards me I have to fit this bar on the shower quadrant okay now the instructions saying this needs to be fitted 10 mil in from the edge of the shower tray so we don't need to get this center line so if you look there as you come down that's all straight and then the moment we get to here the wall starts to go in that way I'm not interested in that because this is the fact that I want to measure from so we measure the distance between me and the inside of my metal rail which is effectively the surface I'm going to be seeing remark halfway point I actually need a new line right by there which once you've made your measurement and you've made your mark on the wall use a good long spirit level and I'll give you a nice straight line from that point down the wall now the other thing to consider is to get your centerline from one side of the room to the other Wilke out the length of your tiles and how many tiles you're going to need I don't forget to include the spaces of your tile spaces in between and for example if you start from one wall went to the other you measured it in a work date you can have a little 10 centimeter slither down the end on one side you don't want that that's a waste of time and it looks bad so what you want to do then is we calculate it and work it if you move this tile over enough how can you get it so maybe your 2n tiles can be as close to half as possible and then you'll be able to use one tile cut it down the middle either enter your room would just have half tiles running down a wall now that's the perfect example you're not always going to get half tiles but the point of this is is that you want to work it so both sides of your room is symmetrical and with the least wastage possible if you can when tying down to a shower tray it's important to get a good bead of sealant in the gap behind your tray and the wall and I'm only put these tiles on with a tile cement there'll be 8 off the wall a little bit like that and then they'll sit down nicely onto the shower tray now essentially whether you put this tight to the shower tray or not I tend to put spaces underneath my tiles and then fill the gap with great as well does it allows a little bit of room for any expansion and any movement when you're on the shower tray so it's not forcing your tiles up and down commit time to have a little bit of movement my sink unit is going to go over here want to put a pound tile above my sink just to give it a splash back effect in order to do this I've worked out the height of my sink when it's sad and I've taken into account the height of the floor tiles I've drawn myself a line the pan tile is going to start from here and go up to here so I need to apply this line to this wall over on the shower right so you need to get your straight edge and put one end of it over there on your line above your sink ok so you've got your sink line then you put a spirit level on top of your straight edge just like that and once you've got it level you can then go over there and Mark a point once your mind to point on this wall then take a spirit level again from your mark until your bubble is level and with a pencil draw your line the reason I've done this is to get the bottom line of a tile so this is the equivalent height at the top my sink over there so my tiles are going to start from here upwards so welcome back take it into account with the tile which is 20 centimeters then the great gaps which are three mil you work down here until you get to a complete title then when you get to the bottom of a complete tile you need to measure the distance left between there and the shower tray and cut that and that size there will fill the gap along the bottom on this one mine's gonna be about 12 centimeters and the full width of the tile is about 20 centimeters so it should look fine now it's entirely up to you how you want to do it and how many be fussy because I want to use that patterned tile behind my sink if I wasn't doing that it wouldn't matter and I could start straight off the shower tray and go up but I've changed into my scruffy clothes ready for the tiling because when tiles aren't started on the shower tray as I showed you earlier I've done it so they line up basically with the tile above the sink therefore you want a nice straight line where you start a row of tiles so it's worth doing is attach the baton to the wall I've done this screwing through the bottom into pieces of wood that I know behind my wall if you haven't got pieces of wood you'll have to use wall plugs if it's brick or plasterboard plugs in his plaster board those doesn't matter because waiting total rip you'll get rid of the marks anyway the holes you put in there so don't worry about that but what this does it gives me a line to begin so I can put my tiles will work off of the wall and it'll all be dead straight open my tub of tile adhesive this stuff is quite firm I use this travel I scoop it over the flat edge there like I get it on the wall and then I use again this long flat edge a bit like one pass trip put it on the wall to the thickness I want and then I'll run through it for these n bits as you see now so take a dollar like that this is fairly easy to work with I'm using the other side I just throw it on like so I know this wall is a very slight bowl it and the middle is the fur this point eight so I'm going to apply this bit really thin and then put a little bit more on the edges to get a nice treat royal tails just run your rough edge in through the tile if decent like that always using your level as you go at all pain traveling straight don't forget a trauma center some of the types of locks I'm using three mill tile spaces I actually push it into the wall lengthways I'll put one there and one there and sit the tile on that got a bucket of water and a sponge whenever these titles get a bit dirty which they do we're not very good at keeping it clean up those now just give it a little rub like that get off what is fraction or come straight off no problem always have your bucket handy keep everything clean the other thing is we're going to access tunnel cement around the tiles if you're going to do something like a color tile there and you might be a while best to get your travel screen any excess off just flat back with a plaster my they've done their this next bit I'm going to have to cut a hole out off I'm going to use my tiles tour to do that I'll show you that in a minute I'm gonna mark a hole around this tile for where the showers coming through so I'm going to rest this up in line with my other tiles making sure that the tile lines are lined up obviously don't forget to a low for your three mil gap here's my tile saw so there you have the cut bit of title by there and I need to go up around the shower when you measured your tiles up you obviously want to measure the width you need just draw a pencil alone right like I've done across there is you want to line this up with your tile cutter push that lever and your tile breaks off nice and straight now with this you've got to be positive give it a good score and give it a good hit with this little piece here these are ceramic tiles so they're a bit easier to work with if you're using porcelain tiles it might be worth checking out with a tire shop what sort of cuts you need you've got little dips in your wall which is has you want to put your spirit level or a straight edge across the wall and just see if there's any dip behind it as you wanna have a look before you apply your adhesive and if there's any bit the bows inwards you want to fill that with a bit more adhesive or otherwise that's not gonna grab the back of the tile like here I got a slight curve so I fill it out with tile adhesive and I got a nice straight line for the tile to go onto and these lines on these tiles I didn't want to be just slightly outs on these because they're not going to line up I wanted them obviously out of line so they don't look like I've tried to match them a mist so I had to do some measurements on the wall again but I came up with a distance of three and a half centimetres which basically gave me enough distance that every time it goes through one of these tiles it never quite meets the line because if you have a line so close that it's not quite in it looks like you tried to line it up and you haven't been able to this piece of batting here believer on art was three and a half centimetres was more luck and judgment so I used another piece of batten on top of there I'd be able to rest the tiles on top but this is the kind of thing where there's no exact science to it you've just got to use a few pieces of wood tap it in and get it up to the level you want right I've left these wall tiles to dry overnight so the next day I'm now going to remove these battens yeah the tiles will hold themselves on the wall Samantha's got off and then I'm going to fill these gaps down to the show tree now where I was cutting the edge off the tiles yesterday to fit the wall I had these off cuts it was always important to keep it off cuts because you can use them later when you're doing small cuts of tiles you need to remember they always want the smooth original edge of the tile to butter to the next bit of tile so your cottage always sits against the wall or against your corner edge in peace so I've got to fill a gap here I want to make sure that when I mark this out this smooth bit is going to butt up against the next tile and this bit is going to butt up against the next tile and then the cut edge here is going to go against the wall and the bottom cut edge will go against the floor so just like my tile up with the cutter underneath my handle I line it up with the line on the top of my cutter push forward gently as strong and then get your little bit on the end of the tiler I just push quickly and positively like that you end up with an ugly cut tile and then this piece should fit nicely MA here's another little tip you don't always have to put the adhesive on the wall if you've got a small bit of tile like this and you in an awkward little area it's perfectly acceptable to get your tile cement and just put it onto the back of your tile over then in this corner I've got a piece of tile that's going to have to come down in an L shape and then down here and fill this gap first of all use the manual tile cutter to get the full depth okay so I've cut my tile at its deepest point to the right depth then I've also cut the width that way so I'm going to cut it down there so square edges do with you man your tile cutter then if one got left to get my L shape is I've got a line across there and down there and then the waste that I want to cut out if you just put a squiggly line on it like that and then you can't make a mistake when you go to your tile cutter you know that's a bit need to be removed and so we're going to go outside now I'm going to do this on the electric tile cutter right here's my electric tile cutter give you a quick overview you've got the tray here this is what you put your tile on you've got your cutting disk diamond tip and the here you've got a water tray and your blade run through that and that keeps the disc cool while it's cut in I'm going to turn the cutter on I'm just going to cut along the line you've drawn on my tile along there and omelette to know I'm soaking wet but the tiles cut perfect great job done like we said you should be putting a guard on there safer and you don't get covered with water always get your spirit level I try to all different angles like this get it across but doesn't matter if your tiles aren't going on all the way but your general overall length wants to be nice and level so put it diagonally that way that way just always use a spirit level on the top as well I just make sure your tiles are on lined up which mine are perfect alright for this next bit I'm going to be applying my angle bead then the edge of these tiles now I'm using a flat or square edged corner bead you can use the curved ones now when you're doing this you need to decide which way round you're going to put your chrome facing edge let's sort of show you what I mean here's my return wall going from here into the corner so I need to cut thin bits of tile out there now I want this on display as you come into the bathroom because this is where you're going to see it most often so we'll be fasting that flush with the tiles have already cut and one I've been cutting these tiles I've even put a spirit level down the edge to make sure that it's as straight as I can get it along this wall you need to put your tile adhesive or cement down this wall and you can see these letters of the brand name the Tyler piece it will squeeze through there and Ionis to stick to the wall you can then place your tiles over the top of this and into the wall like I showed you earlier with all the other tiles that's pretty straightforward but if you wanted to put it round the other way you could but it's what you need to do is to put this in on the wall before rest in these tiles there is that way then you're flush edge would have been facing out that way these tiles sat on and the new tiles then put in here would have just butted straight after that now cutting this stuff is simple just use your measuring tape to the length you want mark a line across it and cut it using a hacksaw with a metal cutting blade you can either just block these two up doing straight lines or you can cut them both at 45 degrees so if you did a diagonal down there and a diagonal on the other one your both meet up and butt up flush which looks quite nice but to be honest when you use its square corner edge there's nothing wrong with just button it up and you'll never know it's the difference and if you've got any tiny little gaps between it with a slightly rough cut if you just fill it with great afterwards and you'll never know it's it in the future I promise the tip always start the cut on the chrome face always find the very last bit always twist you're free so if you cut it this way the little twist will be on the bit that's hidden beyond the title's chrome strip and just cut fits perfectly we're going to just get some tiles to make like a show before once you've got a toilet decent one we can then offer this up if you put on a slight angle so you put the front edge as close to the tiles as possible and work backwards it should squeeze most of the adhesive backwards rather than squeeze it all forwards okay I've got pieces like this which are the offcuts from over there and they are more than big enough to fill that gap another quick tip once you apply the towel cement to your tile on the edge this coming up to this chrome strip you don't want as much tile cement on it because the chrome strip is already a mill or too thick against the wall take the flat video trowel and just scrape along like that so now you'll find this tile one for true love so when you apply it like this to your wall nice and flush with a piece of metal rather than sticking out too much this way and then you'll be trying to squeeze all the cement edge of it and you'll get mess everywhere I just want to show you how these tile spaces can be used you put them in the gap like a cross and that ensures that all these line up with each other that's how to place them in between the tiles to make sure the tiles are level from the one below I've never done my tiling all the way up here with my mat I'll beat the gap still change slightly here when you fill out with great it'll all look fine I've just watched in my pipe where it with some plywood I have to cut around luckily for me and this is by accident on purpose one of the joints in my tiles is right by there which is perfect so I can bring the tile up to there and I can just cut the end at an X went around this pipe also note like here I'm just using pieces of cardboard just to wedge this out off the wall to make sure it doesn't fall back and obviously I'm not too worried about the gap there because I'm going to have another row of tiles coming up to this and I've used all pieces of plywood I had floating around and a spacer and some cardboard just to get my level right and as all I did was run a spirit level across the top of this I obviously ensured that that lines up with this line as well so the line is got the continuity all the way around I've no told on this back wall now you can see there what I was discussing at the start of this video which is this patterned tile here is going to be pretty much in line with the top my sink so it looks a bit like a pattern splash back and I wanted that to match these patterns over on this shower wall now the problem I had with that was I knew exactly the height of the sink and I had to put that mark from the height of the sink exactly onto this wall and then I had to work from that line down so if you look this is my sink line and then I had to measure down from that in hole tiles and this is what I was left with and then I have to do a small cut down to there now it's fine it's just just a bit bit trickier and it's a lot of work and a lot of people wouldn't notice at the end the work is going to it but clearly in the long run that sort of preparation makes such a difference because it's a nice little feature and it just ties that wall in with that wall operation is the key get your measurements right get your levels right and you'll be laughing I've already secured the chrome strip for the show on this wall reason for that is this is where I'm taking the tiles up to I'm not taking them any further so no measure the exact center point between this and these tiles and that will be my center point for these patterned tiles on this wall right I've just started off the bottom of this wall and just to show you again there may be other ways to do this but the way I do it it's a bit fiddly but it's getting this first road dub which takes a bit of time and I'm trying to match this line up with that line so I drew some lines on the wall you can see it there okay but don't forget I did this one and a different level you can see it in that one slightly lower than that one what you're after is this top edge to be level doesn't matter if the bomb isn't because you can obviously fill it with great so once you've filled around with it and made sure you put your spirit level on it and got that level and then you can work your way up there like I did on the other bit of the wall right to the top there was something I wanted to show you I forgot earlier and that's one of these notice I assume it's a tiling to all I can't remember but I bought the pack of three different little hooks in a pounding shop you've got a tile and you push it up against the wall and it sticks a bit tight because it grabs too hard you need to get it back out you can just push these I got into the title I won't do it now because this one's gone off but then you just twist it round behind the tile and you can pull back just a tiny and you can bring it back out level where you want and then push other bits in it's also really handy just go on a long lines again and pull it out bits of tile cement if you've got a bit too much and it's squeezed into it the other thing I use is the tile spaces if you've got a gap say like year with a lot of tile so man you can just run it along a gap I just pull the tile Cement out by another quick point a year we're almost at the ceiling I need to cut off about 15 mil off the edge of the tile to fit into the ceiling now 15 million for me is too small to cut with this cutter here we go I just did one just to make a point for the camera you'll find it I'll just chip a bit off like that and if you're unlucky I'll probably do crack your tile if you turn it round I'll put a hole crack through it if you look along the top I've left about a five or six mil gap not always best to leave a gap that's slightly too big between the end tile and the wall the one that's too small because if it's too small the gap you're going to struggle to get any grout in there and it may even be too tightened and pinched against the walls now you can see now I've titled all the way up to the ceiling so all my tilings done except for the little bits of boxing in which I said I'm going to do that once my units are in place I can tile up to it I get my floor tiles down and I can tile down to those and then I can just do the great just on those bits after but really this is ready for grating so first of all we've got to pull all my little plastic spaces out we'll get those put away we'll have a little tidy up and we'll get on with some grating I'm just pulling these spaces out the next thing to do is get a nice bucket of clean water and when you go all these tiles give them a good clean and make sure there's no tiles tonight left on them for the grouting you're going to want a bucket travel like this and that way you can mix your grout together in the bucket I've just given my tile cement bucket cleaner I'm going to mix it in that views a little bit of clean water and put that in the bucket first I'm gonna start with a little bit I'll try a tad more than that I just go see how I go with that and we get our great I'm using a matte pie and I'm using lime stone color for this because limestone I've used before I think it looks really nice on these brown tiles and what I'm also going to do is outline stone grab to my floor as well and also until I complain the wall tiles in with my floor tiles but I'll show you the floor tiles in another video of how to tile floor so we just stir the same now using my bucket travel and you basically want to stir it until you get a nice creamy texture so it's about the texture you want all right so you can see once you've applied grout you want to get a damp sponge I try to get rid of any excess off the surface of your tiles is what your findings on the joints go sideways gently you'll find you get a nice line created with your tile and it remove any excess grout to sticking over the sides you get bits like that you can say up and pushed on if there you want to get a bit back in there so which is get a bit more grout and you just push it in just like that yep as you can see down here at the bottom I haven't put any great in that gap you want to leave that so you get a good bead to see them wedged into that I'll make it nice and waterproof so you'll want to do is make sure you go over this with a sponge a few times give it a good clean when the grout goes a bit dry on it to get the sponge back over again and get it all off nice and clean and then on to the next section make sure on these metal bits you keep the grout off because that will corrode them if you leave it on there and it goes hard so keep out nice and clean

Channel: POUSE around the HOUSE

Views: 565,091

Keywords: How to tile, tile a bathroom, tile a floor, tile adhesive, tile cement, how to grout, grout a bathroom, grout a shower, tile a shower, ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles, tile cutter, how to use a tile cutter, screwfix, vitrex tile cutter, bathroom fitting, how to fit a bathroom, how to tile a bathroom, tiling a bathroom, tiling, mapei, wet room, wickes, b&q, google, youtube, DIY, renovation, home build, How to, tutorial, beginners, guide, tile a wall

Id: gk1yWnjL0YY

Length: 27min 45sec (1665 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 07 2016