How to Screen Print - Production Printing - Detailed instruction - Screen Printing 101 DVD pt 32

this section will talk about setting up a multiple color job with a rider Hopkins press using the joystick registration this job is going to be a white underbase on a black garment with a red and then a black text so it's a three color job this is a spot color job to know half-tones we are going to be using center crop marks in our image and we do have unique registration marks along the side now for this registration we're going to be showing a little bit different type of registration we're going to register to the film now when you register to your film you want to print or you want to register to the most encompassing or the trapping layer of film you don't want to take in this images instance the smaller part of the image or the image that is less encompassing let's say the text this image is much easier to register than the outline read the outline read encompasses both the white and the text that's why we're gonna choose this plate to register to the first thing we need to do is pick a cleaning palette to register so we put brand-new pallet tape on this pallet and we need to draw a center line down the center of the pallet once we got our pallet centered we next align our film to the center line and where we want our image to fall on to the t-shirt now keep in mind that most shirts when you print them are three fingers down from the neckline so let's say our neck lines right about here somewhere on the pallet we want the image to start up at the top here one of the other reasons why we use one of the accompanying trap layers three inches down so if our neckline was right here the image to start there and we'd be squared away ready to go now we have centered crop marks on our image so aligning the image to the center line of the pallet simply and easily aligns our image we don't have to get the t-square out anymore you can either use a little bit of tack adhesive to hold the transparency down but that kind of ruins the transparency so we're going to use just a little bit of screen tape to hold the edge of the transparency down so it doesn't move during registration next let's take our first screen and register that up now the first and easiest screen to register is obviously going to be the screen that matches exactly to the plate now with this print we're going to be printing white and then black and then red so we're gonna register our red screen in the last position bring the head down now you need to make sure that your joysticks are centered right now the joystick is facing to the back so we want to Center that out to give us the most room to play with once we actually start in micro in the press now as you notice it's pellets a little high compared to where we placed our image we got two options we can either raise the screen up and then lower the whole film which would then lower the neckline of the image or we can just take the pallet and move it back slightly so that our image comes close to alignment that one's probably a little bit too far back let's move it a little forward pop your screen down and if it comes close you're probably good to go when I mean comes close to alignment you're don't have to line up exactly because that's what we're gonna use the joystick registration for but it needs to be close so then we can micro it in with the joystick next thing you want to do is you want to say you're off contact and you want to set your off contact tab at the edge of the screen right here keep in mind with the joystick registration you need to have a flat level playing field otherwise your joystick will not move freely if you look at the screen right here it's not flat the screen starts out low and then comes up very tilted at an angle so what we're gonna do is we're gonna lower the off contact of this screen and lower the tilt and then lower the off contact we'll lower all the bolts up remember the easiest way to do this so we get it leveled instantly is using an off contact plate like that and then tightening everything back down and then inserting our off contact tab make sure it's level and flat what's our plate is set up we will now insert our off contact tab I'm going to make sure that our off contact tab touches the frame and then comes down and touches the neck portion or the top of the platen it works much better if it does it this way rather than having it on the mesh touching the platen because the frame is much more rigid so washer or quarter works great for that next we check for off contact once we have proper off contact it's time to micro over the press in when you use the joystick you want to use one hand back at the joystick and then one hand at the top of the frame to actually help your hands move together now this frame is that even playing field because this joystick works very smoothly and easily and nicely if we had problems moving this joystick back and forth we wouldn't know that's a telltale sign that something's not level up here you use the joystick you want to get one hand down here again and one hand up here and you use your hands to work together this takes a little bit of practice once you get a hang of it's actually not too bad I'm actually right-handed I'm actually using my left hand to set this job up you can see how fast and easy I set it up you want to look directly down over your print and register the image completely to itself this image particularly is easy because we're actually registering the film to itself then we want to push the image down to ensure our registration is spot-on we need to make a small adjustment there I love the joystick because it can move diagonally up and down side to side any direction we want once we're set up I'm gonna hold the screen down so it sure's it does not move as we tighten the joystick back up and then I'm gonna simply tighten the joystick back up once the joysticks tightened we are locked into registration you want to go around you press one more time to make all your nut make sure all your knobs are locked down your joystick knobs your screen clamp dong and your pallet knobs are all very important to tighten down because if any one of those moves during the printing process we're at a registration we have to set whole thing up over again plate one set up ready to go next plate to which is our black text now because we use our pre-registration board to line this up we pretty much don't have to line everything back up measure the pallet and all that again that's already been done on the first screen that's why it's so important to get your screen imaged in the correct area every single time let's lock the screen down we want to make sure that our joystick is squared up and in the center once our screens lock down then we'll move to set the off contact once they're off contact is set will simply do the same thing with this screen remember one hand down here I'd like to rest my wrist on the knob to give my wrist some tension and then one hand up here at the top a couple small adjustments to get this into alignment check her registration marks make sure everything is in order make sure our image aligns in the center here as well we need to make one small adjustment over and once we're lined up we lock down hold it in place and then on to the last and final color sure everything's locked down now to our white plate load our screen in center our joystick out check for off contact this off contact needs to come up a little bit quickly do that we've ensured that consistent off contact now we have a free range moving joystick can move at a diagonal level move any direction simply line our print up now this particular image is this white underbase is choked a little bit so it should be slightly smaller than our completely surrounding red image which we're registering to so as we push the image down we should see a little bit of black outline around our whole image we should not see any white spaces around each registration mark we're ready and locked up look how fast and easy that was lock her up and ready to go make sure everything's tightened down now I'm going to keep my registration template on press just in case we have to go back and register any something else I'm going to move to the next station now you do need to make sure that your stations are the same distance and since we had to move the station we want to measure this this comes out to be about just under 17 there move this station into place tighten this side knob first bottom knobs second and do that each corresponding station that way your print placement on each station stays consistent we have our white underbase black and then red outline the way this is going to be printed is white flash print and then print what I'll let we can put these two wet and wet because the colors do not touch so we only have one flesh right now we have two choices to set this print up we can either leave the registration marks open and put ink through them flashing between each color or we can close them up and tape them off already I have good confidence this image is registered in fact I'm going to just check it one more time to assure the registration on it is consistent and then I'm going to go ahead and tape the registration marks up knowing that your image is registered means you can keep these open just in case you have to go back and register them later on when you don't have the film's handy tape them up simply take some screen tape I like using screen tape versus scotch tape because it's a little more solvent resistant and we'll just tape our top marks off and our bottom marks off in one fell swoop let me now taped our screen registration marks off and insert as squeegees in the screen so it's now time to ink our screens when you ink your screen here let me move so you can see a little bit more gonna be using an opaque red you want to insert you know a fair amount of ink below your image area right in front of your squeegee we discussed earlier it's definitely enough to get a started keep that into ink we've got our black now the black is printed through a 156 mesh screen the other two screens are both 110 mesh the black is through a little bit higher mesh screen because the black is a much thinner ink if we put it through a low mesh screen it's just gonna flood directly on to our white underbase and it's not going to come out crisp looking at all which is not what we want so 156 or 200 would be good optimal screens for black on a general basis for this print we're going to be opportunity to go with a 156 mesh screen finally our white you notice I'm using metal spatulas I like these these clean very easily this is the round net whites very nice and creamy easy to work with but opaque because this test print incurs a flash we don't want to use a test palette for the most part we're going to use a junk t-shirt so this is a shirt that has previous prints on it going on a black shirt here spray our spray adhesive down we've already rotated our flash dryer into position t-shirt on the pallet there then we'll do our white underbase first we're going to do two passes just to make sure the screens open and printable flood the screen first get the ink working through the mesh area two passes here then we're going to run this underneath the flash dryer now because our films on this palette still we don't want to get that underneath the Flash dryer so we're gonna run that quickly through or go the other direction flash dryer is really low setup for for production purposes on this press right now so it does not take a lot to flash this flash already and good to go next we'll be doing the next two prints wet-on-wet flood up this is all pulling this particular print very good and as we're setting this print up we are going to flashed your eye just in case the red doesn't match up the reason we're flash drying just in case the red doesn't mash up is because if we print in the screen wet-on-wet the red will automatically the black will be transferred to the screen so we'll have to clean the whole entire screen off before we go and try to register the job again so just to be on the safe side even though we're pretty sure the job will register we're gonna flash dry between colors just on the registration purpose make sure that's dry ready to go and then our final color this is an opaque red so you can tell it's a little thicker do this twice as well our screens are releasing the ink good and there we have it now on our final print we're actually going to be wanting to do the print with two white passes because we want that white to be an opaque background but for our registration purposes we're good ready to go and ready to start production our press is now registered so we'll go ahead and take our film off set it back in the carrying case for the film you want to keep this in as good as condition as possible so we're going to take the tape off there right away now that our job is register ready to set up for production well your production printing on a rotary press there's a few things that you want to check first thing is is you want to make sure that your pallets are all the same distance from the print station so we're going to take our ruler here and we're gonna measure each pallet accordingly if they're not all the same then we're going to want to move them right now this press seems to be set up so everything's lined up accordingly next we're going to want to load shirts up now we're not gonna actually print this job introduction but we are going to load the rotary press and kind of show how the press works in rotary style the load shirt so obviously we're going to want to use our spray adhesive down the pallet and then we'll load all our four shirts up now because we're gonna be printing white then flashing than printing wet-on-wet the black is going to transfer on to the red screen so we do want to run a couple of test prints with the black transferring to the red screen so the black builds up on the red screen if we don't do that if we try to start a production immediately what will happen is on the first couple shirts the black won't be built up on the back of this screen and it'll actually pull the black ink up off the print itself and the black won't be as dark as a couple prints down the road so that's why we want to always run a couple shirts wet on wet in production before we actually go to our full production run so that's what we'll do first here but we'll go ahead and load every shirt up spray a little more tack adhesive down there when you're printing production the loading and unloading of the shirt is very important now we've already measured our necklines to make sure that each shirt hits the same spot on the pallet which is about two and a half inches down for this particular print a good way to tell that if it's already not predetermined is to put your t-shirt on slide it all the way on then pull it straight back then you can take your finger hold it on the edge of the screen here and then pull it down your finger you can see your finger through the screen you see it on the shirt measure three inches down you have your approximate t-shirt spot and then you want to neckline all your t-shirts like I've done obviously we've wanted to let our Flash dryer heat up for at least 15 minutes before we went and started printing and then one more to go now this particular print will be a print flash print with the under base and then flash again we're not going to be using an automatic flash for this we are going to be using just a manual flash so um when we get to the testing phase and before we actually start production we might need to manually rotate the flash back and forth all right I'm going to go ahead and rotate the flash dryer into position and then let's start printing when we print the white ink we want to barely up-and-down squeegee angle probably about eighty degrees and we wanted a good pressure to give us a nice print base we don't have to press that hard do you want the screen to release go ahead and run each of our whites down first just one pass because we are flashing now you want to test our flash drive to ensure that the amount of time underneath the flash dryer is going to be long enough to flash dry the shirt this flash dryer is about an inch above the t-shirt it's not quite long enough yet so we're going to go ahead and count probably manual count to about twelve to fifteen seconds to insure the flash drying is completed before we go ahead and print the next garment you should be able to touch it should feel a little sticky but nothing coming up on your fingers so the first time around we can take our time printing our white underbase because we do need to allow that to flash second pass a white now this press has to cool down stations is important to let your print cool down before you go ahead and print again if it's too hot when it comes out underneath the flash drive you're sitting in about 300 degrees you print ink on 300 degrees it's going to cure in the screen so that's why we have a four station press which has to cool down stations to a lot to cool down before we go to print the second pass the things we could do to speed this process up would be a more powerful flash dryer right now we're using a 16 by 16 which is a standard flash shower that comes in most kits but we could go to an 18 18 with more wattage or maybe even in 1824 the higher wattage flash are you get the faster you can flash the quicker you can print okay now it's time to lay the color so we're going to rotate our color screen over to the print position and a touch our white to make sure that it's cured so we can go ahead and print then we're going to flood the black to get the screen loaded up and then do a wet on wet print but I probably put a little more down the first time because we haven't transferred the black on to the red screen yet now when you tell this the red screen doesn't have any black on it so when I do this first print it's gonna pick up some black because our black is not flashed now our black lost a little color there next go around this is why this is a test shirt next go around it's gonna retain a little more color so right now because we're just setting the job up I'm going to take the flash dryer from the flash position rotate that back out now we don't want to print the black again without flash drying it so for that shirt because we don't want to ruin the t-shirt we're gonna go ahead and flash dry it and print the black one more time so we don't have to thrilled the t-shirt away that'll give us a nice dark black before we go ahead and send it through the conveyor dryer if we printed it without flashing then we have a bunch of red transferring to the screen we don't really need the red in our black screen we're just gonna have the black on the red screen now that the black is starting to build up on the red screen it won't pick up as much that kind of acts as a layer as long as your screen stay registered which with this registration bracket right here on this gate the screen stays in very good registration from print to print to print that's why it's important to have a good press that can hold registration because that allows us to do wet-on-wet printing without having to worry about if our prints are lining up and smudging on the back of our screens well go ahead and hit the black one more time then we'll hit the red one more time to continue to build up the black on the red screen now pulled off a lot less black at that time this t-shirt is done we'll send it through the conveyor dryer well we're letting that shirt cure we'll go ahead and load another shirt you've got already rotated our flash out of position there have to worry about that burning now remember we want to let that black build up a little more so we'll probably just do one more print and just ensure it's built up enough on the back of that screen before we start the production run well go ahead and hit the black and then the red see if enough black is built up on that red there we go it looks good it doesn't pull up all the black and now let's test for curing remember we're using this lowrider conveyor drier so we're gonna run it through the conveyor drier then we're going to grab our laser temp gun to ensure that it's reaching temp as it gets out of the belt here the shirt comes out this is our laser temp gun we're going to attempt the surface of the t-shirt now right now that surface is coming out at 374 degrees so actually getting a little hot we can speed the belt up or lower the temp of the dryer we want the surface of the ink as it reaches out of the conveyor dryer so we're gonna point in about a foot in if we can reach in that far to be about 330 340 degrees max if it gets too hot sometimes we can have burnout on the ink where the black ink especially because it's a thinner ink actually bubbles up it starts to burn out right now that didn't happen we have a very nice final design but we're just gonna speed the belt up a little bit so that the t-shirt does not get too hot let's do one more print so we can test the belt speed one last time well that's going through will load one last sugar and then after that once the belt speeds dialed in we're ready to start production printing with this job we're hitting 3:30 so we're perfect ready to go now as you notice as this comes off the belt we have a box for it to drop into especially on smaller dryers you want to make sure that your shirts don't drop into a box very hot they need to cool down a little bit before they go into the box if they drop in hot sometimes the ink on them is still sticky and the ink design will stick together basically ruining the t-shirt so you need to make sure you have enough cool down space on your dryer this particular dryer has about three and a half feet of cool down space so with the lowrider dryer completely fine but keep in mind on some of the smaller dryers you don't want to run your belt too fast because if the shirt drops in the Box hot it might ruin the t-shirt before we start here we're going to make sure our screens have enough ink in them the worst thing is get into a flow of things starting to print a lot of teachers and then running out of ink right away so we're gonna load the screen up with just a little bit more ink on each design to ensure that we won't run out during the print drop the screen into position just load a little more ink on here now that we're ready to put this print introduction we're actually going to have don guerra soon due to the production section on the last DVD come up and show you how it works hi I'm Don and I'm gonna put this three color print through production for you that Ryan's already discussed a little bit earlier and keep in mind at first to pay attention to your flash and this is just a simple white nice couple even pulls per coat and just spin the press once the pallets get hot we won't have to wait as long on the flash here okay you might have to flash these twice till the pallets get warm you can tap it with your finger like it did there and I'm just doing nice easy pull screen snaps right up yeah and you'll notice I'm just spinning the press letting the press do all the work it it clicks into place the screens click into place you don't have to baby the machine now I'm going to the two colors wet on wet and keep in mind you got your flash going over there right onto the belt shirt on now there hit a white and that was a little longer than ten seconds but with the flash set at the proper height you don't have to it won't have any effect on the shirt and if you have to skip one you can skip one and just move it around to the next pile if you think you've left it over there too long and I spin back around so that by the time I get the shirt on the pallet the screen you need is already right here once you get the pallets warm you should be able to raise your Flash up and build so that the flash is keeping up with you pallets are getting warm so flash time will come down same consistent print angle and stroke on all colors and especially when you're going over the white plate you need to be consistent on the pressure of these so you're not flooding the ink through the screen and thus causing it to blur and this and you notice I haven't sprayed for a while there's plenty of spray on there that's how let's get hot it gets stickier and you start putting too much it's harder to get the shirts on and now we're down to our last three shirts and with the everything went very smoothly very efficiently the presses work very nice when you're four spinning once you get into full production mode and everything is running correctly for a print such as this you should with the one flash you should probably be able to get forty or fifty an hour possibly but there you have it with the white press and the right equipment you can get an excellent print

Channel: Ryonet

Views: 8,577

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Keywords: Joystick, Dvd, how to screen print, screen printing, t-shirt, prints, printing, how, to, how-to, craft, ink, ryonet, training, tutorial, youtube, free, information, make money

Id: gfpl_DTMJDE

Length: 34min 26sec (2066 seconds)

Published: Mon Oct 29 2012