How to RGH 1.2 a Xbox 360 (Phat)

hey what's going on everyone it's me mr. Mario and today I'm going to be showing you right here with a Jasper motherboard how you can do a reset glitch hack 1.2 installed so we're going to be doing had to start to finish and I'll have a list probably somewhere on the screen of all the stuff I'm using for this install but the main components here aside from you know my soldering equipment and such I'm going to be using a cool runner Reb C and this is a clone board honestly they work the same as the legend that ones I've done tests on this before so we're going to be using this and I'm also going to be using a NAND X programmer there's several different programs you can you can use I'm just using these two components because one I already have this and two there's other glitch boards out there such as the X 360 HP 3 but the reason why I'm going with this one is because I have a few of these still here in my current stock and also this requires the least amount of setup I don't have to mess around with you know any other extra resistors and I really have to remove anything off the board it's pretty much plug and go once I program it so the first thing we're going to be doing is going to be prepping our board we're going to be cleaning up we're going to be flexing the points and we're going to solder on our land X cables right here so that way we'll be able to read demand now the first thing I did was I updated this to the latest firmware I did this a while ago but it's on 175 1/1 which is compatible with reset glitch hack 1.2 so it's really up to you if you want to update or not I decided to do because we're going to do an RGB 1.2 on here anyways but let's go ahead and get this all prepared and ready to rock all right so this points might sound a little bit obstructive because I'm wearing a mask for this but on what I'm going to be doing is I'm going to be taking some isopropyl alcohol which I recommend you know at least 91% the higher you use the better I use 99 but what I'm going to be doing is right here you can find 2 points you to find these points up top and need to find these points right here so you're just going to clean these up really well all these points and now that you have them all sufficiently cleaned up what we're going to be doing is I'll let it drive for a little bit but I'm going to now use some flux so I use King Bo flux just get a little bit on there like so and we're going to be slapping it on these points right here so kind of just like that and we're going to be cleaning this up all later so don't worry about that but go ahead kind of put that on if I can you don't really have to worry about using too much or too little honestly with flux it's better to use too much because again if you have good flux you could always just cleaned off pretty easily and there you go save those two points and I'm going to have a diagram on screen showing the points that I will be pinning these are all the points that we're going to be soldering our our band wires to it's going to keep that on the screen here or keep this over on the side and we're just going to touch up and tin these points so one piece of advice I can give you on here is the yellow point that's normally the hardest one to get so you might want to turn up your soldering iron a little bit more and keep some more time on it use some more solder it's definitely possible to sock too but that's normally the hardest one to ten so you want to do after that is you want to come up here to these two points and we're going to be soldering and or pinning the two green and blue points so we're going to come up here do this these ones are pretty easy to get there's one there's two all right so now that all your points been 10 what you can now do is easy enough take your wires and we're going to tend them to all the point and since these are color-coded you're just going to match each color to the diagram so green wire goes to green blue wire goes to blue etc it's pretty easy to do so we'll go ahead and work with that now all right so now at this point you should have your wires soldered in and I just showed you know the two of them right there because if you can solder one or two wires you can do the rest of them the only one that might give you some trouble is the yellow wire right there but what we're going to be doing is we're now going to be hooking this up to our computer so we're going to need a few things first of all if you go down below in the description we're going to have the tutorial I'm not showing referencing as well to from join the resistance he's going awesome written tutorial over on $0.07 which has helped me out several times here so downloads are going to be in there but also just crediting him to this but we're going to be using the man decks right here to flash everything so what you want to do is you want to take this into the NAND x cable and you want to find the spot that it goes into which should be this right here plugs in just fine so that's for your actual Xbox and also going to need this cable as well too which is specifically going to be for your coup runner so I'm going to plug this into the side and right here we're going to have our little programmer on this so what we need to do here is we also need to grab the cooler so go ahead grab that right here go ahead open this up and as you can see brand new cool runner so for this what I'm going to be doing on here is you'll have to take this and you'll go in and connect it up so let me just see the direction it's supposed to go it looks like ground is right there and the crown cable is here just going to take it so the smooth side is up and we're going to slide it in like so so you're going to have to do this when you program the chip and I'll show you all how to program it because we're going to flash it with a timing file now so you don't really have to do it later and if you want to tune it up you're more than welcome to but I'm just going to do this all now so we don't have to do it you know later on and such but what we're going to be doing is we're going to have that connected we're going to have this set to fat because it's a fat console and we're going to have this set to program because we're going to be flashing it so I'm going to show you how to do that here in the next step and for the Xbox itself we're going to also be dumping the mant and then we're going to flash our first file over to it so when you're doing that your vote needs to hook it up to power so just take your power cable plug it in make sure it's powered but don't turn on the system all you need to do is plug it in so the Xbox is hooked up to a power supply to your wall so we can dump some and write it properly as for that I'd also recommend just do this step separately don't have a hooked up to the Xbox at the same time so we'll get it we're going to do these in separate steps but we're going to do it over at the computer so I'll go ahead and show you that part right now alright so from this tutorial you're going to need to grab these two files you're going to need to grab Kay Runner and you're also going to need to grab the RG 12.2 pack so forge a runner I'm just going to go ahead extract this I'm going to do the same thing for the RG h 1.2 pack these are our timing files that we're going to flash over and J runner is what we're going to be using to do the rest of this exploit so right here we're going to open up J run by going in here find the J runner exe right click and run this as administrator now once it pops up everything like this is going to start and what we're going to do is make sure your NAND x is plugged in as I have right here and then plug in your coroner only plug in your cool runner don't hook up to your Xbox yet and we're going to program this with a timing file so what I'm going to do for this is I'm going to go over to advanced custom NAND see our functions and I'm going to select excess VF and I'm going to need to pick a file right here so you want to click this ellipse now once this pops up you're going to need to go over to your our gh 1.2 file go to try these first and we're going to load up matrix yes even though is a corner board we're going to be loading up matrix X svf and I'm going to start with the 18 timing file right here you can play around these but I'm going to try out 18 first so I'm going to hit that open and run as you can see we're going to wait a little bit and it will say done right there now at that point we can exit out of this and you can go ahead and disconnect your cool runner from your NAND x because at that point it has been programmed when you disconnect it go ahead and slide that switch back into norm ode because we're going to pop it into the Xbox later on and we're going to need it on normal mode so that it will work now once that's done go ahead and put that over to the side and we're going to hook up the NAND x wires from the Xbox to our NAND X programmer so when you're doing that make sure you have everything plugged in good to go and make sure your Xbox is connected to power now once it's been connected we're just going to do two reads right here and we're going to click read NAND now as you can see everything has come up properly on here so we got the flash config it's saying it's a jasper 256 megabytes i'm going to select that on here jasper 256 megabytes because that's the more the model I have I'm going to hit OK now at this point it should start dumping your system so wait for it to do too good man dumps and we're just going to sit back and relax for a bit alright so this one took me a while as you can see it took about nine minutes per dump because this is a big block system but as you can see we now have it done this is exactly what you want to see you want to see your first dump your second dump and you want to see that the Nan's are the same we're going to go ahead check this as well we don't have any Cavey info yet and we don't have any bad logs both of which are this is normal but this is a good sign right here and normally if you have bad blocks and a runner will remap them for you which is fine but what we're going to be doing now is we need to create our image file a part of it so this is one thing that trips me up several times when I use J runner during the second dump it automatically switches from retail to JPEG you do not want JTAG if you select JPEG your system will not boot up properly you need to manually select glitch too because we're going to build a glitch to image after that make sure you have both these loaded up right here but before we do anything as well you're going to want to go over to your output at least where it might be makes this new folder because of a previous thing but he wants to go ahead and grab these two files I'll just go ahead grab the entire output file copy and paste it somewhere else and you want to just make sure this is your backup so I'll just call this our GH 1.2 backup Nan's so that way in case J runner does anything like it automatically deletes them butchers them whatever it is you have your original retail untouched man dumps right there so what we're going to do here is now that we have the both of those set up I'm going to make sure glitch 2 is selected and we're going to create a ECC image for our system my now mine again is a 256 megabytes Jasper so I'm going to go ahead hit OK the e.t.c has been created and now we're going to write to the ECC over again select your system hit OK and it's now going to write over our system so that is why I also wanted you all to back up those files because we are now officially modifying the system and that's it so that is our zel image that means we boot up our system it should bring up the zel which is the Linux loader however so but by technical definition we do have a modified system but we don't have a way of booting it which is why we need the glitch board so now at this point go ahead and disconnect your man Dex from your Xbox and from your computer remove your Xbox from the power get your soldering iron again and we're now going to start installing the glitch board into the system with the hopes of glitching your system successfully but go ahead and keep this all minimized we're going to move over to the Xbox now all right so now at this point you're going to wants to take your board again we're going to want to make sure that this is set to no or mode and is set to fat we don't really have to do any other modifications to this all right here what I will be doing is I am board take some tape so let me just grab some electrical tape and I'm just going to spread it across the chip so that way it's not moving around anywhere there we go we have some cut and I'll just kind of slap it on like so and we can remove this immediately afterwards but what I'm going to be doing here is I'm going to first tin all these points and I'm going to have a guide as to what we'll be using so we're going to be using these two points three VC 3 V 3 and ground and we're going to use a B C and D we're not going to use E or F if you want to you can't end them but there's really no point since we're not going to be using them so what I'll do here is I'm going to go ahead take some isopropyl alcohol clean this up nice and well and we might as well flux them a little bit as well too so I'll also go ahead and grab my flux which is conveniently behind my camera slightly saying that sarcastically and we're just going to ten all these points here just a little bit or flux them just a tiny bit that's all we need so now that we have that done go ahead take your soldering iron and we're just going to put some nice points of solder across all of these right here as you can see those are all looking good we have some nice even looking gloves they're all shiny that's ultimately what we're wanting right there now at this point I'm going to go ahead and take our wiring right here so we have fat table slim cables I'm going to equip using these fat cable right here and we'll take it out so you can also cut your own cable that's fine as well too I'm just going to be using these out of convenience and because the cables came with the system and I'm going to go ahead and line them up right here so first off we're going to have just kind of putting them up on the side here we're going to have our 3v3 our ground I'm kind of showing this off camera alright so right here I'll go ahead show you all the cables I'm going to be soldering on I've already organized them off camera right here but first I'm just going to go at least on my side from right to left so we're going to go ahead and do the 3b3 it's easy enough you're just going to want to heat up the solder on there and then just kind of load the cable and so to speak so you can do it like so so that's our 3b3 now we're going to do the same ones with each so I'm going to use black for ground because that will be easy enough I'm going with green for our PLL wire orange will be for the standby clock [Music] [Music] I'll be using yellow for our post and [Music] got a little too overzealous right there but we have it on it's soldered in and finally I'm going to be using blue for our CPU reset wire which would be the last one right here so let me go ahead bring that in and there we go hopefully you all could see that somewhat clearly but we now have all those points right there so that should be all the physical work we have to do to the board I in my experience I haven't had to do any other modifications we have the switches in the right place and if you ever have to reflash the board like you have to put a timing file back on there or you want to change your timing files this is all you have to do when it's in the Xbox all you have to do is switch this right here over to program you load in this cable right here so the flat side is facing up though then you flash your timing file you then unplug this switch it back over to no or boot up your system make sure it works so we should be good to go on all that so now at this point I'm going to remove all this and we can now go ahead and put it into our system now one thing that would also be good I'm going to be taking this precaution right here is I'm just going to take a q-tip and clean this board up so I'm going to clean the top of the board right here there we go and I'm also going to be doing the bottom of the board and we could do a more thorough cleanup later on but I'm just trying to remove most of the gunk off of that so we have a nice surface to work with you kind of want to make sure you have this bottom part clean as well too especially since we're going to be sticking that on to the system so I'd recommend you know making sure this is all nice and clean all that fun stuff and at that point we should be ready to rock so again that's still useable and such we could do more thorough cleanup later on but let's go ahead hop over to the system so one of the first things I like to do is I'm going to be using the AV port right here and I want to clean this up so we're going to clean up all of our points and we're going to tend the ones we're going to use so first off I want to go ahead make sure this surface is nice and clean and I'm going to use this pin right here for our reset or not erase our ground so I'm going to clean that up a little bit and we've already we're going to be using some points right here we're going to be using a 3.3 volt so that one's already fine but we're going to be tending that later on we're also going to be turning right here our reset clock so I'm going to go over to where it says our four b-24 make sure that's clean might as well just clean the entire area really so all those are all the parts there's going to be you know ground that point three point three volt and the clock those are all the ports or you know areas I'm going to be cleaning on the top of the board let's also go to the bottom of the board as well - all right so right here I'm also going to have some screenshots and just you know some photos on screen show and these points will be cleaning but we're going to tend them as well - and the points right here so you're going to want to come underneath to where this X clamp is and there's two points one of them you're going to kind of look underneath for some that says t p7 r2 and there's kind of a dividing line and the way I'm looking at it at least it's the bottom one or the top one however you're looking we're just going to clean that up a little bit I'm going to do my best or really you know show how they are but if the footage doesn't come out the best part of me on there and then we're also going to look for TP 7r3 directly above that there's another two dots it's going to be the highest dot right there and we're going to clean that one up as well - so now that those two are cleaned up let's go ahead and flux them and tinned them before I move on to the next point and we're also going to do the points on the top of each system as well - after all the ones on the bottom so I'm going to kind of want to do that and I'm going to want to do that there we go these are really tiny sensitive points so just be careful with what you're doing again diagram will be one screen but let's go ahead and ten these two points right here I'm just going to touch a little bit of solder kind of find it somewhere here down the point so now that's shiny enough we barely need any solder but once that's tinned we can move on to the next one which is somewhere inside of here there it is and I'll use a little bit of more solder on that point there we have a nice solder ball no refunds we have nice solder balls on each one I know you can barely see it but trust me that's the best I can do on those points right there so now that we have those soldered in we're going to move to the other side of the X clamp we're going to attack one more so right here this one is the easier one to find out of all three of these points so this is ft6 u1 and it's that one right there so again what I'm going to do for this is I'm just going to clean up that point and then we will flux it intended doing the same thing as we've done before there we go [Music] [Music] that's honestly more than I needed but we have that all done so that points been hinged so now with all three of those points ten we can flip over the board gently and we're going to tend the other three points on top and then we're going to start putting the board on there all right so first off let's go ahead and attack the point I'm going to be using as a ground this will be easy enough to hit it's just going to be this right here normally all I need to do is get some you know you need to ten it really just get some solder on there and you're good now at this point we're also going to begin to 3.3 volts so to the right the way I'm looking at this if I'm looking at the system you know facing forward directly to the right of that green wire we're going to be tending that so we'll just do the same thing we've done with all the others [Music] so that's done and that's almost a little bit too much so I'll kind of remove a bit there we go that should be a bit more optimal and the last one is going to be the clock which is arguably another hard point right there so this is you're going to look for our four b-24 and there's going to be two points on the left and there's going to be a resistor on the right and it's going to be the so the two points on the left we're going to focus on those it's going to be the one on the right of that so for that you're going to do the same thing we're going to just blob some of that on there and now that's done we're going to go ahead and pin it so just go two to four that's the point and let me bring in my solder a bit more you just need a little bit on here [Music] [Music] there we go I think I put a little bit more on there but honestly you don't really want to overdo it or else you can break it there we go my rule of thumb is actually that's pretty gracious but my rule of thumb is generally once it becomes shiny it's good to go again you're really going to be looking for you're going to be working with tiny points right here so you want to be careful but anyways we have all those in there so now let's go ahead and apply the board inside so at this point we're now going to take our board and work with this here so I'm going to go ahead and remove the adhesive that we got which it should be like this little white piece right here I've moved one side of it and we're just going to gently put it right there and press firmly down on it and that should be more than enough and now when we apply the board we're going to be applying it like that so there we go I'm going to apply it something like that so what I will do is I'm going to now remove this side the adhesive you can do this whatever way you want to do this just the way I'm doing it for this video and now we're going to carefully apply the board down the glitch board so to speak and kind of firmly press on it and that's it that is it so one way I also like to test this as well is let's say I have to reflash I can comfortably go in and hook this up right here there we go that's optimal that's what you should be aiming for so everything is installed there now we get to wire this up so this will be the fun part so let's go ahead and work on the ground point first so for this all you're going to do is really just curl this over and solder to this point right here which I will do right now so let me go ahead I'm going to be doing this the opposite way if I'd know the way I normally solder but let's give this a shot and that's it so we have one wire done we have five more to go so let's go ahead work on the others all right so at this point we're now going to do a mean three point three wire so I'm going to take this so I'm going to do the best I can to show it kind of go down here to the point that we had ten two before and just solder it in there we go that's complete so now we're going to take our clock wire and do the same thing with this point you need to be really gentle with but I'm going to ten this again go in here find it and solder to it just like so so you want to be really gentle with it and actually what I'd recommend now so we have that soldered in I'd actually recommend as possible kind just like push it down and I want to tape it so take just a little bit of electrical tape and we're going to cut that up and just tape it to the board so it's not moving around everywhere you can kind of push it down like so and tape it like that and we don't want that wire to move so there we go because that's a pretty gentle one so now that we have that complete we're now going to be working on the other points here so now this is a little bit interested of a interesting predicament so to speak we're now going to have to run some water to the bottom of the board you might be wondering how to do that we're gonna have to run them to these Southbridge holes right here don't run them through like any other holes like any screw holes because you know they might get ruined and crushed and all that stuff but one thing that I've learned is do not use the don't use the Southbridge hole closest to the GPU right here you want to avoid that so I'm going to be using two different holes I'm going to be using this hole I'm going to be using this one so just those two holes are the ones that we're going to in your lightly so this wire we're going to take we're going to have to locate these well then take the a wire and the D wire so I'm going to grab this this one is the green one and the d1 is blue and we're just going to thread these through and it doesn't really matter the lengths and all that such right now you can edit that later on but I want to at least get these poles to me so hopefully you all can see that maybe might not be the best focus but either way we don't want it super tight on there give a little bit of slack and we're going to do the same thing with our D wire and finally we have this yellow wire right here and we're going to do the exact same thing to this this should be your C wire and we're going to run this slightly over as I said we're going to run it over to this hole on the other side and just do the same thing thread it through now if you know a better water placement or anything I mean feel free to share it feel free to you know do what you want on here I'm just saying for the other couple systems that I have worked with this has been optimal for me so let's go ahead bring that through kind of gently and there we go so now that we have all three of the wires started through I'm going to go ahead and flip the board over so here I'm just kind of showing you the overall placement of the wires but for the yellow one I'm going to take it up kind of going to snake it through here and I'm going to solder it in right there and I don't recommend taping it down yet reason being is I'm going to show you all how you can tape it down and such but kind of find your placement so like the yellow wire will look like that and the green of blue wires are going to be going kind of this away and it hit the points they need to so first off let's go ahead I'm just going to move these out of the way let's go ahead and work on that yellow wire right here so for the yellow wire again I'm just going to I clean my soldering iron off going to Tennant a tiny bit and you want to take this go over to ft6 u1 and start it in like so and that's not all you need on that man that's really all you need less is more Jesus crush my dog just remember that less is more so anyways we now have the blue and green wires right here and we're going to work on those as well too so first off let's go ahead get the equal bead wire and the green wire is going to be our PLL point so I'm going to just go ahead and bring it around here so to speak and again I'm going to do my best to record this but if it doesn't come out the best I really do apologize because this is just I'm starting at awkward angles here but you're gonna go ahead hit that if you can and it looks like we got it nice alright I kind of want to redo that though but yeah that should be fine that should be fun so we have it yeah that was almost an accident honestly but we got that right there so starting accidents can sometime be great and finally we're going to hit the reset down there as well - right underneath the right underneath the X clamp so so I tried my best to get it but we're going to come over here kind of hit it like so and let me heat that up if I can and that's it so that is it at that point the basic wire install has been done so we can kind of stop sweating the wires right now which is nice so what I'm going to do here is I'm going to back out a little bit and I'm going to kind of show y'all some rough places so for this right here what I'd recommend doing is kind of have the yellow wire set up something like that I normally try and kind of go up a little bit and then angle it over this way and for these two wires I want to kind of pull them back a little bit so don't like go crazy pull them I'm going to feed them back as much as I can because I noticed at least with my boot times in session consistency it doesn't really matter how much excess is on the top of the board but on the bottom of the board it makes more of a difference that's at least been from my testing I could be wrong on there but just I'm just saying that off experience I also don't really want these - you don't really want these to touch the X clamps here because you don't want anything crushed you know so kind of do it like that there's a little bit of give right there but aside from that let me kind of move it over here if I can I think we're good at that point honestly a little bit tangled up but I've noticed that's normally okay so we have our two wires there and the reason why I'm really stressing this is because this exploit is so touching when it comes to wires so if you're having issues with your column to read ringing or freezing on boot it's most likely the way you position your wires on the bottom of the board and I'm just double-checking my soldering right there we got all the right points so now that we have that we can flip over the board and we can begin how we're testing and finish up the exploit here and it was all works alright so for our most basic benchmark we just want to make sure that the system works so all I do is I hook up in the back here I have our power HDMI as you can see right there the cool runner does have power so if we get that red light that is very good and I hope if the fans and I kind of have them this way so that way it cools down the CPU and GPU all you wanna do is turn it on and wow that was really fast all right so now to get that boot that is a very good sign and we're going to come over here and we now have zell ready loaded so at the very base of it all like the very basic definition we have successfully reset glitch in our console however we're obviously not done because we're not supposed to just until reload we're supposed to get our dashboard was supposed to be able to do things like play games and all that stuff so this is what you're going to do you're going to wait for this to run through as you can see down here you're going to have a CPU key and a DVD key if you don't have network access I'll show you what to do so if you don't have network access you want to take works as your CPU key and you want to make sure you type that up correctly what ask is if you don't set up correctly you're not going to be able to decrypt your man so you just have to go back to the drawing board but you want to type that down you want to write it down somewhere but if you have a network this one I'll show you how to do so for this what I'm going to do is I'm just going to turn off the system right here and then I'm going to hook it up to an Ethernet jack so well even on cable I'm going to take an Ethernet cable hook it up right there turn the system back on and then we're going to go over to our computer so if you have a local network this will be a little bit easier let's go over to our computer all right so now at this point I have my Xbox on it is running zel and I've gone the IP so that's why I said hook it up to a network if you have my IP right here is 192.168.1.2 51 yeah but hooked up to your network go ahead click get to CPU key and now gets our CPU key and it shows all the kayvyun phone so that is all good at that point so now if you have this OH need to do is again you need to go to glitch to select that image you need to create an XE build image so now it's going to build an image off the 175 1 1 dashboard as you can see it's now done and at this point we have a update flash file so now what I've done is I have turned off the Xbox as an off camera I've turned off the Xbox but you're now going to want to take your NAND x and hook it up to your Xbox and hook it up to your computer and we're now going to flash our name so let me connect it real quick so now at this point the way everything should be looking is you should have your NAND X connected you should have it connected to your computer and to your Xbox and your Xbox should be off but the power should be plugged in and you should also have your XE build image created as a glitch to image we're now going to click right and select your - order select your console excuse me and wait now this is going to take about eight or nine minutes for my system right here but you just don't want to touch anything just step away I mean you can really pat yourself on the back at this point because you've gotten all the hard stuff done you technically do have a reset glitched console but we're now going to be flashing over our modified NAND so we can do all the fun stuff we've been wanting to instead of just looking at cell all right so now at this point it actually took a minute less about a minute less it took under eight minutes instead of under nine minutes but we should have everything completed so at this point your system should be successfully everything soldered to it it should be reset glitch it should have the modified NAND sitting on there now this is what I would recommend go ahead and go over to your jail run or folder and you're going to find wherever your serial number is double-click that and you're going to see everything here you're going to see your image ECC your K V info your update flash your NAND dumps take this and make sure you have it backed up somewhere what I normally like to do is I like to take this and make sure I have it burned to a CD and just stick it with the console so that way you always have a backup make sure you have that backed up because those are all your working files at this point we can exit out a Jay Runner we now need to disconnect the JR programmer or the NAND X wherever using disconnect the programmer from your computer and from your Xbox and now go back over to the Xbox so at this point I now have the Xbox back standard set up everything is just kind of you know sitting there I had the HDMI plug did have power plug and that's really all I need so at this point if we turn the system on let's wait for a little bits there we go end up booting up and we should come over to our monitor right here and we are greeted with the Xbox 360 splash screen which that is to be expected so good job on that if you're getting this and it's not freezing congratulations you have done everything properly at this point and just to prove to you all this is indeed a recent glitch at system go ahead turn this thing off because the next box that fans have to keep spinning and spinning and spinning there we go and now at this point I'm going to go ahead and hit the check button right there there we go this thing is doing perfectly I'm very impressed with it so far come over to the monitor and zel reloaded pops up so I'm going to go ahead turn this thing off and give you all some last-minute tips on here as well too but I have to take some things off the system so now as you can see this is our system everything's been disconnected but you know the next steps you can take or you can go ahead and disconnect all the NAND wires right there because you no longer need that anymore which is pretty nice at least we're not going to be restoring our nan because everything works there it's the wiring I want to tell you all about which I actually have a separate video talking about how to get good or cheat 1.2 wiring but this is the this is what I'm telling you about so we're going to flip over our system and right here on the back as you can see right there a little bit harder to do with one hand but we have our yellow wire and we have our blue and green wires this is what I recommend you do first off kind of tape them down a little bit so what I'm going to do off video here is I'm going to be taping this down and kind of tape it periodically at a few and then flip the system over and get five good boots five good boots meaning that the system boots up it gets a 360 splash screen and it gets the dashboard without freezing if that's good then go ahead and start taping down the green and yellow wires as well and do the same thing now if at any point your system starts freezing or whatever it is it's because of your wire placement that's why I said do the yellow wire first once you get the yellow wire secure and your systems not freezing or red ringing you could do the other two wires so that way you start messing with these wires and system the system starts freezing and giving you red rings you know that it's something with the placement of these two wires and then you can go ahead and go back and edit it but that is what I would recommend for you all for the final steps so go ahead desolder your NAND wires get these wires taped up accordingly or secure however you want to do and then clean up all the solder points just to get the all you know the residue and everything from the flux off and after that you're good to go so congratulations you successfully reset glitch had one point to your system that's weird to say right anyway this mr. Mario signing off thank you all for watching everyone if you enjoyed this video a like very much we appreciate it absolutely hated it I dislike a spide as well too because who wants these things anyways man who wants these anyways signing off real this time later anyone [Music] [Music]

Channel: MrMario2011

Views: 120,541

Rating: 4.9052825 out of 5

Keywords: mario, mrmario2011, mr mario 2011, mr mario, mister mario, rgh, xbox, xbox 360, xbox 360 rgh 1.2, xbox rgh 1.2, xbox rgh, xbox 360 rgh, rgh install, rgh 1.2 xbox 360, 15432, rgh 1.2 full tutorial, rgh 1.2 tutorial, how to install rgh 1.2, how to rgh 1.2, rgh 1.2 how to, guide, rgh 1.2 guide

Id: XA7jkvXe5bg

Length: 42min 35sec (2555 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 26 2017

Reddit Comments

[u/MrMario2011]

I hate that guy.

[u/bleachnick555]

Yes actually and its a pretty decent one you can also check this one out. https://weekendmodder.com/RGH-falconjasper.html

[u/vendo232]

What XBOX 360 version you would recommend me to purchase today 9/30/2019 for modding?

Which XBOX 360 gets easiest modding and what would be the best hacking method RGH 1.2?

sorry for those questions but I have been NINTENDO guy until tomorrow.

[u/Octal450]

Yes. The one thing I would add:

21 timing file for Falcon and 16MB Jaspers

20 timing file for 256/512MB Jaspers and BRIDGE CAP on the Rev C

Instant boots.

[u/esuardov94]

I followed this one to do my first rgh on the latest dashboard came out great