‪Arcade1UP Raspberry Pi Install Tutorial - RetroPie in an Arcade1UP

what's going on guys the CTA Prime back here again today I'm gonna show you how to put a Raspberry Pi inside of your arcade 1up cabinet well I'm gonna show you exactly what I did to put a Raspberry Pi in my cabinet and you can follow along if you'd like now before you even go any further I did have to add extra buttons because the Raspberry Pi really requires a select button for player one and a select button for player two some people might not want to modify their cabinet in this way but what I did was drill two extra holes in the control panel now you could always drill them on the side or the bottom or even the back of the cabinet so they're not shown but you will need to add a couple extra buttons or switches now I look at these cabinets as toys and I didn't want to put a lot of money into a toy so I use cheap USB encoders and cheap buttons you can always go high-end if you want but I really wouldn't recommend it for a cab like this before we get started we'll definitely need a few items first thing on the list we'll need a Raspberry Pi now through this whole list here you can substitute for cheaper items or more expensive stuff this is just what I used this is a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ and a flirt case the case acts as a heat sink so I don't need a fan and it keeps it really cool you're also gonna need an SD card and a power supply now I recommend using a 5 volt 2.5 amp power supply all links for everything I mentioned here will be in the description below you can get them all on Amazon or Ebay since we're gonna be using the stock monitor that came in the arcade one up we're gonna need some way to convert it to HDMI these are known as LCD controller boards or LVDS controller boards now I happen to get mine on Amazon but I believe they're sold out since I made the initial video but you can still pick them up on eBay and I'll leave a part number in the description also so you know exactly what to look for this will convert the stock LCD inside of the arcade 1 up to HDMI VGA or DVI I'm sure there's other ones that will work with the monitor inside of the arcade one up so do your research if you're not going to get this exact board here the only two parts out of this kit we're going to be using is the controller board and the Settings button board so we can plug this in to the controller here we can control the color we can open up the menu contrast power on power off and we can even switch inputs from here in fact some of these are actually sold on eBay with a remote control so you could control everything from like a TV remote the next thing I suggest getting is a full arcade button kit this comes with all the buttons we're gonna need and two joysticks the joysticks and the arcade one up cabinets are not great quality they are made out of plastic and after about a week of messing around with it you might have to take it apart and repin the springs out in order for them to work correctly these are very cheap on eBay and Amazon they are not the best quality but they will work with the Raspberry Pi and don't let anybody tell you that these are complete junk because they are not you might run into some people who had trouble with them they don't feel as good as HAP or Sanwa buttons but they work fine with the Raspberry Pi the USB encoders that are included with one of these kits are perfect for the PI we're not trying to put all name-brand parts in here and spend $500 on our control panel we're trying to get out as cheap as possible because the cabinet in general is very cheap to start with you're also gonna want to get a hold of a small amp these are about ten to fifteen dollars on Amazon and eBay it also comes with its own power supply you can also add an extra speaker if you'd like and it's gonna sound great in a small cabinet like this and finally a few extra things I use for this build a power strip some zip ties a Phillips head screwdriver an exacto knife or something to cut with and finally we're gonna need a way to drill those extra holes for the extra buttons now I use a step bit here this goes to one inch and three-eighths but you can also find a 30 millimeter hole saw or 24 millimeter depending on what buttons you're putting in there and if you have a local Harbor Freight near you these step bits are pretty cheap and they come in really handy if you're doing any kind of arcade work on arcade sticks or cabinets all right so let's go ahead and get the LCD monitor converted to HDMI before we start anything we want to make sure this works because this is the main component to this unit the LCD screen we're just gonna pull the mainboard out of here underneath this little panel is what powers the Raspberry Pi it's a very low end single board computer it has a one gigahertz single core processor with 256 or 512 megabytes of RAM the board itself also has the LCD controller built in so all we're gonna do is pull it off the back here unplug the LCD connector the power to the LEDs and we're also going to need to remove this ground now that we have the old board in the trash can it's time to get to work we're gonna grab our new LCD controller there is a spot here for the ground you will have to source a little nut and bolt by yourself it doesn't come with these kits or anything like that we're just gonna take the ground from the LCD panel and place it right on the board here put the nut on tighten it down and we're grounded now we need to plug in the power connector for the CFLs inside of the monitor I'm pretty sure this is a CFL and out of LED monitor we're gonna go ahead and plug it in right here to this port and the LCD itself there's a little 30 pin header right on the board it's gonna plug directly in here and if you look very closely all the red wires are to the far left this kit does come with a little option board or a settings board I don't know exactly what the call it's gonna on and off switch a menu button and things like that it's gonna plug right in here now all we need to do is Mount all this up you can use double-sided sticky tape or screws just don't mount it directly to the metal plate on the back the LCD as you see I have it down here on the wood I have double sided sticky tape on the back and it works perfectly like this the LCD controller we just installed requires 12 volts and luckily the stock power supply that came with your arcade 1up cabinet works fine with it before we move any further let's go ahead and test this out make sure it is working with the LCD I'm gonna plug in my Raspberry Pi you can plug in anything that has HDMI it should show up on the screen as long as everything is connected correctly and the LCD controllers working so yep I got picture here we're running from the HDMI port all my raspberry pi to the built-in LCD on the arcade one up time to modify the control panel so I have opted to switch everything out here the buttons are okay they use very cheap micro switches inside of them but the joysticks are pretty horrible in here it's an all plastic design they do have micro switches but they're not the best the cheap Amazon knockoffs and wah arcade sticks are better than the ones in here and that's what I'm going to be using bought that whole kit you saw at the beginning of this video for $40 and it works great on the Raspberry Pi so when we pull this control panel off I'm sure you've seen this because you built your own we're gonna have this cover we're just gonna take this cover off you can always put it on later on if you want but we need to get access to the buttons in here so luckily we don't have to desolder anything at all to take everything out of here it's all plugged in up top so you theoretically could use all of the stock buttons and sticks with a USB arcade encoder now the buttons will plug right in but the joysticks are set up a little differently they have two connectors on the end instead of a single connector but I opted for all new buttons because I actually have to add one button for each player so we'll need an extra button for player one and an extra button for player two so each button will unplug from the board up top you're just gonna squeeze the little connectors on the side if I can squeeze them correctly will push them right out of the top each button will do this you can pull it right out these will plug into a USB arcade encoder but it's just easier to swap everything out now we'll just remove the sticks we're gonna unplug it from the board make sure you remove the ball top from the other side unscrew all four screws and pull it right out here's the fully clean panel now I did leave the speaker and the on and off buttons we're not even gonna mess around with those on and off buttons for this build we're gonna keep this stock speaker in place because we're just gonna plug this directly into the amp we're adding you could find a connector for this or you could just lop it off if you know you're never gonna use it again that's what I'm gonna do I just cut the end so I went with these longer screw type buttons here because the panel is pretty thick now I could have used real Sanwa buttons I got a bunch of them laying around I have more than enough to complete this but sometimes they pop out of the top here's the Sanwa and as you can see is very short it's not gonna lock properly in place this is a stock button from the arcade one up the screw type LED buttons that I have right in the middle are the ones I'm gonna be using and they're gonna be perfect basically any 30 millimeter button should work in here you're just gonna throw it in since I'm using the screw type I'm gonna tighten it up and that's it so like I mentioned at the beginning I was gonna add two extra buttons to this control panel I did that by drilling 230 millimeter holes with a step bit right here now they're 30 millimeter you can use a thirty millimeter hole saw or pick up step bit like this from your local Lowe's if you're afraid of damaging your control panel you could always drill a hole in the arcade cabinet itself or you could use a smaller button a lot of these kits come with a few extra 24 millimeter buttons it might be easier to drill a smaller hole but the main reason I added two extra buttons was for a select four player one and a select four player two with retropie it's good to have those extra buttons we can set them as hotkeys also all of the buttons are going to be connected to these USB encoder boards now you can always go all out and buy an eye pack for 60 bucks if you want to but these are cheap and they get the job done with the Raspberry Pi I already mentioned that once but I have to do it again you do not need to go out and buy a 60 to $100.00 encoder board for the Raspberry Pi these cheap boards here are actually six bucks apiece if you buy them separately and they're gonna work just as well if you're building an emulation PC that costs a lot of money go with more expensive parts we're emulating all this stuff on a single board computer that costs 35 bucks by the cheap encoders here's a quick look at the included arcade sticks that come in the arcade one up units they are completely plastic they weigh nothing at all and in my opinion they aren't junk for reference here's the cheap sticks that came on my $40.00 arcade button kit I'm putting in here you can just look at it and tell it's higher quality it's a Sanwa clone now they don't fit exactly here so you will have to drill four more holes really easy to do put the stick down line it up mark your holes before you go drill in anything make sure you line it up from the front so you're gonna put it in check the front make sure the stick is directly in the center mark your holes drill a tiny pilot hole and then put the screws back in it's really simple to do just take your time triple check that everything is lined up correctly before you start drilling moving on to button wiring depending on the kit you get it could be a little different usually when you buy a kit they do have some kind of manual either digital or that comes with it so this is an LED button kit there are four pins on each button two of them are for the LED two of them are for the switch when you're wiring up a double pin button it doesn't matter it is not polarity sensitive so you can put the red on the black or the black on the red it really doesn't matter all this is doing is bridging the two wires together when you press the button now for the LEDs it does matter these are polarity sensitive you will have to put the positive where the positive goes in the negative where the negative goes best course of action follow the manufacturer's instructions or find something similar online and find instructions for that these are screw types so I'm just gonna put it right through I'm gonna grab the plastic holder or plastic nut whatever you want to call it screw it right on the collar make sure everything's flush so the button stays in place one thing to remember about using two of the same encoders with a Raspberry Pi is you need to wire up each side if you have a one player and a two player they need to be wired exactly the same so for instance if that's our a button we're gonna plug it into port one we also need to plug the a button from the other player into the same port on the other board if it's not wired up correctly like this sometimes if you switch the PI off it will get mixed up and some of the buttons on the second player will be mapped to the first player why are each button to each encoder to the same exact spot the way you mount your encoder is up to you I'm just gonna use some double-sided sticky tape works fine for me you can put it on top just make sure you have enough wire lead to reach each and every pin you may have to move this around or wire everything up and then mount it in a spot where you're not stretching wires out and again you need to wire both sides up exactly the same so like I said let's pretend that this button here is my a button for player 2 now I'm gonna plug it into the very end of the encoder and these don't have to go in a specific order they just need to be exactly the same on both sides you're gonna map these controls later on now I'm gonna move over to my player 1 I'm gonna locate that same exact button which is gonna be this button I'm just calling it a for this video I'm gonna plug in my lead to that button on player 1 my a button and I'm gonna plug it into the exact same port that I have it plugged into over on my second player encoder I'm gonna do this one more time we're gonna call this our B button so our B button on player 2 I'm just gonna plug it into the switch I'm gonna plug it into a port on my USB encoder I'm gonna move over to player 1 find that same B button I'm gonna plug in my lead right to the switch itself not the LED and I'm gonna plug it into the second port on my first player encoder so we now have button a and B on both sides plugged into the same port on each encoder I'm just gonna go over the LEDs real quick for this unit here all kits are created differently unless you got the same kit I have here so it comes with a daisy-chained led connector you would think that the one marked with the red paint is positive but it's not on my kit it's actually the negative so blacks gonna go where the red paint is Reds gonna go where there's no paint we're gonna do that all the way down the line and this in here plugs right into one of the red ports on your encoder that's just gonna light the buttons up when the encoders powered from the Raspberry Pi I'm sure there are tons of videos on how to wire up a USB encoder on youtube if you have any trouble at all go ahead and search for one I'm sure there's something out there that can help you so I have everything wired up here this is my long USB to my Raspberry Pi it's gonna plug in right to that port I did end up having to move my encoders around like you can see I did mention you might have to fiddle around with it as for the volume and power button we're not using this at all on this cabinet we're using the stock speaker everything's wired up the USB plugs that plug into the encoder boards will plug into the Raspberry Pi both new buttons in place this is where I drilled the holes got all the LEDs and connectors plugged in it's time to connect everything up alright so let's go ahead and install everything these are our two speaker wires that will be going to the amp you can extend them if you'd like but I want to be setting my amp here and they'll reach fine first thing we need is a power strip I'm using a cheap three dollar power strip from Walmart I'm just gonna double-sided sticky tape it to the bottom of the cabinet these are our two USBs for our encoders I have marked one with a zip tie - no that is player 1 the amp that I'm using in this build comes with a 12-volt power supply I'm gonna go ahead and plug it in we want to mount the amp now you can mount this stuff anywhere you want as long as the wires are each - this is just how I did it so I've already placed some double-sided sticky tape on the back of my hand I'm gonna go ahead and plug in my speaker I'm not sure which one is positive or negative you can switch it around later on but either way will work it might sound a little weird if it is swapped around I'm just gonna mount it to the side right here I didn't have to extend those speaker wires at all I'm gonna need to plug the power into the amp I'll grab that 12-volt power supply already have plugged into the power strip plug it right in and now we need to grab our 3.5 millimeter audio cable there is a 3.5 millimeter jack on the amp and one on the controller board we're gonna plug it in right here and we're gonna plug this in into the amp the Raspberry Pi is going to send audio and video through the HDMI and we'll get audio out of the board to the amp now it's time to mount the Raspberry Pi in here same thing I'm just going to throw some double-sided sticky tape on one side of it I'm going to mount it right underneath the amp now it's time to connect our HDMI I'm going to plug one side into the LCD controller board I'm going to plug the other side into the HDMI output on the Raspberry Pi now we need to grab the USBs that are connected to our USB arcade encoders and plug them into the pi of one marked with a zip tie so I know that's player 1 and when you plug these in and start configuring your input player 1 might be detected as player 2 so you will have to swap these USBs around now it's just a matter of plugging in all the power this is for the Raspberry Pi and we'll also need the stop power supply that came with your arcade one-up system to plug into the LCD controller board after all the powers connected we can go ahead and plug the power strip into the wall and boot the system up now I will be going through here with zip ties and cable holders to make everything look nice but for now we need to make sure everything works so we got everything connected go ahead and turn the whole unit on I just plugged the power in already had the power strip on you're gonna start booting up here now this is a custom splash screen I created you can make it in Photoshop or even paint if setting up a Raspberry Pi isn't your thing I do have a tutorial coming out on putting a Pandora's box in here everything's already pre setup for you you just need to wire up your buttons so as you can see gamepad one detected I'm just gonna set it up like normal now you can set these buttons up any way you feel that's how I put mine together and when we run out of buttons to press we're just gonna hold one we've already mapped it's gonna skip through till the end and we need to set up a hotkey so we got player 1 set up now we need to set up player 2 and if you ever run into any issues where both controllers are kind of doing the same thing or interfering with each other remember you need to wire up those encoders exactly the same and if that still doesn't work you can always go into retroarch and map them individually now it's time to test out all the controls make sure you do bolt your control panel back down make sure everything's right before you start putting your screws back in because you may have to rewire you never know since this is a street fighter cab we're gonna go with a Street Fighter game need to put some coins in for the first player I'm gonna do that by pressing select or whatever button you map to select press Start got the first player up throw in some coins for the second player choose my characters just testing out both players make sure all my buttons are working so both encoders are working independently they're not interfering with each other got a two-player control panel working here wanted to test one more before I get out of here x-men vs. Street Fighter all right so it's working fine hopefully you can get one of these up and running like I mentioned if you're not into the Raspberry Pi will be doing a Pandora's box tutorial very shortly now you're still gonna need that LCD controller board to add HDMI or VGA for a Pandora's box to work with this unit and there's also a bunch of different versions of the Pandora's box I have a real gem a Pandora's box 6 and I also have the Box stick version of the Pandora's box 5 so whichever way you go with the Pandora's box I got you covered there a lot of people have been asking me about the xu4 and yes it will work this has an HDMI input now only thing I'm concerned about is the encoders working properly with the Xu 4 I am in tested it yet with the latest release of Ori I guess I could go ahead and flash in that deep card and give it a shot so that's pretty much it for this video guys I really appreciate you watching I hope you can get a Raspberry Pi or a Pandora's box in your arcade 1up if you want to mod it if not I completely understand I'd really appreciate it if you guys could hit that like button maybe think about sharing the video and subscribe to the channel all links for everything that I used in this video are in the description but I can't guarantee that they'll be in stock because usually when I do a video like this everything sells out really quickly I'll try to find as many suppliers as I can and like always thanks for watching you

Channel: ETA PRIME

Views: 1,201,166

Keywords: how to mod arcade1up, how to hack arcade1up, arcade1up add more games, eta prime, etaprime, arcade1up street fighter, arcade1up review, arcade1up cabinet, arcade1up machines, arcade1up hack, raspberry pi aracde1up, retropie arcade1up, xu4 aracde1up, mame aracde1up, mini arcade machine, 3\/4 scale arcade, aracde1up tutorial, aracde1up HDMI, arcade1up upgrade

Id: 09DQCOr6zQM

Length: 23min 52sec (1432 seconds)

Published: Wed Oct 03 2018

Reddit Comments

[u/WickedBad]

High quality video! Thanks

[u/silverwolf294]

I wonder if is possible to used just the bottoms that came with the unit🤔

[u/Ghola_Ben]

Saved it! I just may do this!

[u/joshparr]

Well, I found my next project. Went ahead and got the parts as this is perfect for what I want to do.

[u/xchester77]

Thanks so much. This is going to come in handy!

[u/john2kxx]

Anyone know where to get the raspberry pi image he's using? Or did he just replace the loading and splash screens?