How To Remove a Bolt Seized in a Bushing Sleeve

greetings viewers i am eric the car guy and i want to thank you for tuning in today now i'm hoping to impart some useful information to you in this video and that is about when a bolt seizes inside the metal portion of a bushing and that's exactly what's happened to my 2012 honda odyssey here on one of the rear cam bolts and i'm unable to get an alignment as a result you may be in a similar situation i'm going to go through my process of removing one of these bolts and dealing with this problem hopefully give you some tips and tricks on that but also this is quite common on the honda wishbone style suspension in the front i'm going to cover what i do in those situations in this video as well so stay tuned so this is what i'm dealing with specifically on this van there's a bolt that holds the lower control arm here to the body and it's a cam bolt and what i mean when i say that is you'll notice that the head of this bolt is somewhat elliptical and the reason for that is that allows for some alignment adjustment that pulls this lower control arm in or out helping to set the rear toe with this seized in the bushing you're unable to do that and i don't recommend that you stress the bushing and turn it a little bit because what that does is exactly what i said it stresses the bushing and it could damage it now sadly this bushing is already to the point of no return but i'm going to show you what i did up to this point and how to deal with it if you end up here now initially what i did is i soaked the whole thing with some penetrating oil i took this outer nut off which has some nylon on the inside that's melted a bit i put the nut back on and i take my air hammer with a pointy attachment and i try to drive it through the other side after soaking it with penetrating oil i did that for a good half hour in this van had zero results with it but that is your best case scenario somehow knocking it loose even if you damage the bolt you're still better off here's the bushing on the other side which is easier to see because the exhaust isn't in the way but so the bolt goes through here there's rubber on the inside of the bushing and the bolt is seized to the metal part of the inside of the bushing this one thankfully moves i was able to actually knock this one loose and it does move around so i don't have to worry about this one although i'm considering pushing it through part way and coating the inside with some anti-seize coating the bolt with some anti-seize and putting it back in in fact that's what i'm going to do during final assembly to hopefully prevent this from happening again in the future here on the bench i have a new rear lower control arm that i got off ebay for about 40 bucks but here's a better look at the bushing now after going through what i went through before with the penetrating oil and the air hammer the next thing i tried was heat i tried heating the bolt a little bit and i knew i would probably melt this rubber but i was hopeful maybe i'd get lucky so now this metal is just allowed to freely move around in here so that necessitates me replacing this control arm i couldn't find these bushings separately now i'm faced with replacing this lower control arm and right here is the guy i'm most worried about coil springs want to kill you just go into it knowing that but i have some some plans some ideas that i'm going to throw at this thing and hopefully make this less dangerous what i'm really worried about is when i go back up in that's going to be the real challenge because i've got to make sure that this bolt goes through here and with the tension of the coil spring pushing down while i'm trying to push up on it i'm a little concerned about that whatever you do be careful know that you can use a floor jack in the exact same way that i'm using a support in this video this is a 17 millimeter bolt here i'm just going to give it a try see what happens if i have to put spring compressors on the spring when it goes back in well i'll solve it then but my hope is that i'm able to slowly lower this down and the spring will come out without too much trouble [Music] it's encouraging that it's like not under a lot of stress but i'm going to stand over on this side on the opposite side because if the spring let's loose it's going to come towards you the camera you'll get a a firsthand look at what might happen but i'm just going to slowly lower this down to see how this reacts so far it's not too bad rear springs are not the same as front springs front springs are super strong these rear springs yeah this one just came right out so not too much tension here thankful for that and not too much tension at all actually came right out this guy's all jacked up that's why i got a new one it almost looks like i can get in here with the sawzall which is kind of what i want to do and just cut right along the inside of this maybe pry this over this way and do the same here because there's nothing for it at this point i could also use a torch to burn it out i've done that in the past my concern is you temper the metal around the outside so you're going to super heat the metal that's still on the vehicle so that can work but i honestly prefer the sawzall method which is what i'm going to do now so while the camera wasn't rolling the upper spring mount fell out it fits up in here on top of the spring so i'm just going to set this aside but don't be alarmed if this falls out in the end i ended up developing a technique for cutting through these bolts because i had limited access and i could only bring the blade down in one direction so i would cut for a period of time i'd usually have to change my blade anyway i'd rotate the bushing to another location and then cut into the bushing slash bolt again and i continued to do that until i got almost everything gone now on this first bolt i actually ended up prying the end off as you'll see here finally all right there's half of it well that certainly took longer than expected but that's how these things go now that i have that one side out and try to pry this whole thing over right and there's what i'm looking at i'm gonna cut right there once again i employed the same technique where i would cut into the bolt slash bushing for a bit rotate it and then do another cut and continue to do this until i was able to cut all the way through finally here's what's left and it did get a little scraped up in here to be expected but i still like it better than the torch and try to angle it so you're cutting the bushing more than the subframe clearly one heck of a bolt right the remainders but this is what you're looking at to get this out like i said you can use a torch it is quicker but it can temper the metal so i'm reluctant to do that i used to do it that way but not so much anymore another thing i'll share bring sawzall blades i mean some of these are worn down to nothing like literally nothing so be prepared to go through some blades or you can buy one of those super expensive ones maybe that'll cut better with everything out of here i'm going to go through with some compressed air and some brake clean clean everything up uh and then i want to paint in this area because i don't really want the exposed metal that's going to encourage rust there's already some rust starting down here as you can see so that's what i'm doing next [Applause] here's my prepped surface i did the outsides too and you might have seen me hitting i was just trying to flatten out this surface it seemed a little bent in so i just made it a little flatter i want as straight a contact surface as possible now let's paint it [Applause] the paint has had a chance to dry now it's time to install some new parts this is my new control arm with a new bushing like i said i got this off of ebay you can purchase these new they're about 100 bucks at least at the time of this posting here's the part number for the spring seat so this is the part that the spring is going to sit on on this control arm so there's that part number this is uh one of those nyloc nuts that goes on the outside and this is that cam bolt that through bolt that goes through everything and there is its part number i'll put all this down in the description to make it easier for you to find i didn't bother with a new washer for this setup because my old one seems just fine to me but uh i'll look this up and link it down in the description for you gonna start by liberally coating the inside of this bushing with anti-seize i'm going to use the silver stuff too it doesn't really matter but i'm just like i said i want to make sure that there isn't one part of the inside of this bushing that isn't coated with this anti-seize because i'll get it aligned after all this is done but i'm hoping to make this repair permanent so i don't have to go here again try to get as much down there as i could while i'm at it i'm also going to do the bolt yeah i really really don't want this to seize up inside that bushing again i don't need it on the threads i just need it on the shank of the bolt here we'll start with this inside one and build our way back out so when you install this washer on the opposite side of this bolt head make sure that they're both in the same orientation so that as they rotate the cam side of the bolt is the same on both sides in my case that means it goes on like this it can only go onto the outside of the bolt in one way well two ways actually you just have to make sure you get the right one but when you're done and it's on there make sure that it's the same on both sides now the lock nut and you don't want to tighten this all the way until the van is on the ground you don't want to stress this bushing so you want to put it at ride height on the ground before you tighten this up and then no matter what when you're done with all this you're gonna need an alignment i'm gonna leave this just snug for now so that i can still move it but i want this down far enough to where the washer won't come off the shank as it moves okay so this will still move easily but this washer is not going to come popping off the bolt in its position while i move things around i'm going to start by spraying some silicone lubricant on the top of this spring seat this one goes in the top this will help it move around a little bit if it needs to when i put this on the spring you notice there's an indentation here i'm going to match that up to what's already on the spring i'm not going to use any lubrication on the bottom part of this and no i didn't paint the coil spring i wasn't going for a full restoration here sorry if you were expecting that all right this just sits on the bottom and try to put everything get my jack ready bring this up looks like it'll sit down in there like that as you can clearly see with a spring will sit down in to a groove here and then just raise the jack hoping might catch all this other stuff just for good measure a little bit of the shank of this bolt too and i might need to tap it in to get it started but the end of this bolt is kind of tapered so it's they already sort of planned for this actually let's see if i can put it in a better position with a lady slipper this is commonly referred to as a lady slipper it's great for lining stuff like this up so if the hole isn't quite lined up like it is here this is really good for putting into the into position looks like i'll have to use a pry bar up in here a little bit once that bolt is in you're like home free danger is kind of over i'm not sure how well you can see down in there but you can see the bolt is off so i'm trying to position the control arm so that the bolt can pass through sadly it just isn't possible to show the camera angle and that simultaneously all right i'm not going to tighten that all the way um what helped the most was moving my gun up but once again just like this other bolt in here you want to tighten this one when it's on the ground and for the most part that's job done aside from tightening things on the ground but once again you will need an alignment after this because i really don't want this to happen on the other side too i'm going to try knocking this part way through and then put anti-seize on what sticks out and then just put it back together that's about as far as i dare at least this much of it won't get stuck every little advantage and i'll reconnect my exhaust hangers and we'll move on to the next thing that i mentioned which was how to deal with this on one of those wishbone styles on a front suspension of a honda i don't know the exact torque spec on these and i apologize for that i'll put it up on the screen if i can but once the wheel is on this outer bolt is going to be really hard to get a wrench on but i'm if i'm going to guess i'm going to say it's somewhere between 60 and 70 foot-pounds as for the torque spec on the inner bolts well good luck with that because when you take it in for an alignment i seriously doubt the person aligning the vehicle is going to torque these down this is my 2001 acura integra and this has this type of front suspension with the strut that goes into what we call the wishbone right here and you may be dealing with this this is super common and that this bolt gets seized inside the bushing inside this lower control arm now honda uses this suspension on accords they use it on civics they use on a ton of stuff so oftentimes what happens is this bolt can like i said rust up inside the sleeve similar to what we just went through on the odyssey now if you run into this this is what i suggest you do so it's seized in there it's not coming out you're faced with having to cut it well consider what you're needing to do if you need to replace the strut rather than taking this lower bolt out leave it in instead there should be yeah right up here there's a 14 millimeter fastener that you would have to remove anyway because the strut doesn't come with this wishbone part remove this 14 millimeter also you may have to undo this lower stabilizer link as well and then once you've removed that you can take this whole lower control arm and pry it down and that will pull the strut out of the top of this wishbone right here and you can replace the strut if you have to replace an axle what you want to do is cut this clamp right here and just take the inner boot off of the inner joint well first you can get this out of here so if you're replacing the whole axle you know undo it from the transmission well in this case the the center section undo it from that and then cut this pull this through the wishbone the axle and everything and then leave the cup for the inner cv joint on this side then you'll take your new axle and do the same thing so you'll need one of these bands one of these cv boot bands in order to do this but that's all you're gonna need so with the new axle do the same thing cut this band off be very careful not to get contamination in the grease slide it through the wishbone get it into here put the inner joint back together put the clamp on and everything and put it back together in other words do what you can to avoid messing with this all together because if you do end up messing with this you'll be doing the exact same thing that i did on the odyssey and it's not going to be fun so if you run into this and you just simply don't have the time or the energy or whatever to replace this bushing or possibly this whole lower control arm that's how i handle them so in other words i just leave this thing intact and once again try not to turn this too much because you'll stress the bushing and that will that will be its downfall for sure but disconnecting this lower stabilizer link if you need to in order to get it to come off of the strut is going to be helpful to you and undoing the inner cv joint just pulling it through the the wishbone here and you should be fine well that's how i deal with those pesky bolts to get stuck inside those bushing sleeves and cause you bunches of headaches and as you can see well you're kind of in for a fight like i said you can use a torch but it can damage other things so hopefully you've got expert skills with it i've done it in the past but i'm a little more reluctant to do it these days sawzall a lot of blades or like i say get yourself an expensive blade and maybe that will cut a little bit quicker but that's pretty much what you're in for you got to cut the bolt heads off and start with new stuff anyway the van is all back together it's going to get set off for its alignment and hopefully i won't have to work on it again for a while but i also hope that the information in this video helped you should you run into a similar issue anyway uh if you have automotive questions not covered in this video i ask you to head to air at thecarguy.com that'll be linked in the description along with additional information videos that sort of relate or maybe they don't who knows check the description uh please be sure to like comment subscribe share the video with the world appreciate it when you do that be safe have fun stay dirty and i will see you next time thanks for watching

Channel: EricTheCarGuy

Views: 296,294

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Id: 37iB11GUIC4

Length: 20min 8sec (1208 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 07 2020