How to paint your Beast Snagga Ork Boys for Warhammer 40,000 with Duncan Rhodes.

hey everybody in this video we're going to be showing you how to paint an orc b snagger boy for warhammer 40 000 by games workshop and to do so we're going to be covering a variety of interesting techniques including how to paint that off-white armor and then how to weather it as well how to paint the really bright glyphs they have on them also how to paint their green skin and also everything that you need to know to paint the various pelts appear across their backs and these are all techniques that can be applied to many of the miniatures as well so we hope you find it interesting and we'll see you at the desk [Music] so to paint your bee snagger boys the first thing that you need to do is undercoat your miniatures and for this colour scheme what i recommend you go for is a fairly neutral mid tone so i've gone for mechanical standard gray which is a fantastically useful and code for lots of different color schemes including this one where it's a great starting point for all the colors we're going to be using but anything sort of like this will do fine anything kind of neutral so for example xander does spray or you could even use death guard green if you want to whatever you choose what we need to do is start out with the trickiest looking part on the miniature which is that bone white armor and to do this wraith bone is a fantastic paint to use so i'm going to be starting out with that now to apply it go for a medium sized brush i'm using here a regiment brush from the army painter and with this color what you need to do is make sure you got it thinned down nicely on your pallet as ever so it's nice and smooth and with a color like this it's quite light just go into this expecting to have to apply two coats of it to get that even finish so it doesn't matter if that first one's a bit translucent as long as it's smooth you'll get a great result so what we're looking for at this stage is all the armor plating that we want to be bone white for example this big plate on the shoulder and all you've got to do is apply it all over it not worrying about any of the details for the time being because we are going to neaten up as we go along but as you can see it is a little bit translucent so that's why i'm going to let it dry and apply a second thin coat in the exact same way now in addition keep an eye out for any plates that you want to have that bright yellow one and block them into so for example this one down here this means that when we do the yellow later on we'll get a really bright finish to it really quickly [Music] and here we have the miniature with that wraith bone built up and you can see by keeping those coats thin i've got smooth finish that wrap bone just apply as many thin coats as you need to but remember just try and keep it as smooth as you can and once you've done that you can then add some yellow to the color scheme and for that awky feel what we need is a really bright popping yellow here so i've picked out yuri or yellow and because this is now going to be painted over the wraith bone you'll find you get that very bright yellow very quickly so you won't need very much of this i'm sticking to that regiment brush to apply it and what you need to do now is decide how much yellow you want to be on the miniature now that bone white should be the dominant part of the colour scheme on the armor so don't overdo it here just look for some small areas some small little details that you can pick out so for example this one on the leg just here all you need to do is apply a thin coat of this right over the top and you see you get that bright yellow straight away [Music] once you're happy with that yellow the next thing to do is to block in the third of the colors that appears on the armor plating which is a deep red colour so for this i'm going to go for some corn red and to apply it i've actually switched to a smaller brush now for a little bit more control i have here a medium layer brush from citadel and with this color again like with the yellow what we're looking to do is to pick out certain details as like a sort of accent to the main color scheme of the armor which is that bone white so generally looking at things like glyphs for example so we've got on inside of his shooter just here you can see we've got this like raised up skull design so i'm looking for things like that and all you've got to do is just neatly block them out just taking your time so it's not to catch that bone white armor but also look around the rest of the miniature for any of the armor plates you'd like to break up with this kind of colour so for example this one just here on the belly just things like this [Music] and with that we've now blocked in the three main colors of this color scheme aside from that green skin of course but what we can do now is just spend a bit of time deciding if you're happy with the layout of these three colors because if you want to change anything now's the time to do it and once you are happy with the layout of those colors what we can then move on to do is to start blocking in the other details up here on the miniature before applying our first wash to it now the first of these you should do is the trousers and in this case i'm just going to leave a mechanical standard gray which of course is the same color i used for the undercoat but this is one of those details where you can really add quite a bit of variety which will give the appearance of a mob on your use of aux ideal for them but it's not too dominant to detail so it doesn't take away from the main color scheme of the miniature so in this case what i recommend you do is just pick out some fairly neutral colors and just use whatever you like whatever's in your collection some great examples though would be things like thunderhawk blue or xandry dust or steel legion drab anything like that once you have painted the trousers we can then move on to some leather so what we need then is some corvus black which is going to be for the boots after that some rhinox hide for the leather straps with that done we can then move on to base coating all the teeth and for this what we need is some zandry dust and then finally i'm ready for the scales that appear on the pelt on the back and here i'm going to use some lupical green the first of all we need corvus black and to apply it i'm going for my medium layer brush once again and with this color all we need to do is to block in this detail so as ever just make sure the paint's thinned down nicely on your palette and then you've got it under control and then all you've got to do is identify these details and block them in so i'm looking for the leather around here it's just a matter of picking this detail out and just filling it in [Music] with that black done we're now ready to move on to rhinox hide for all the leather straps which are scattered all across the miniature so just work your way around looking for all of them and gently picking them out now in addition if your miniature has a kind of scaled height like this one does look around the outer hem of it because there will be some flesh showing here too and this is dark brown as well so we're looking at areas such as just around here after that we're ready to move on to zandry dust and this is for the teeth and the most obvious ones are of course the ones in the mouth just here but also look for the ones that are hanging off him as talismans for example this one on the back of the arm just here and finally we're now ready to pick out all the scales on the back here now for this i've gone for lupercal green but really you can go for just about any color you like here and in fact sometimes these pelts are all kinds of different textures and materials for example fur and so for these might want to go for some completely different colors such as a gray but in this case you can see i'm going for the green just making sure to pick out those raised scales same is true when it comes down to the loin cloth down here [Music] with those colors applied we're now ready to move on to two more base coats before we put our first wash onto the miniature and for this what we need first of all is to base coat all the silver detail so here i'm going to use some lead belcher for a nice dark silver after that we need to pick out some details of bronze so here i'm going to use some balthazar gold but first we need lead belcher and to apply it i'm sticking to that medium layer brush and for this all we've got to do is decide what parts you want to be silver and just block them in now when it comes to parts later on that we're going to pick out with bronze what i recommend you do is paint all of it with silver first of all so you can then start breaking it up with the bronze afterwards so at this stage look for anything that's mechanical and just base coat it in so for example the chop we've got here looking at details like the motor and the teeth and it's just a matter of base coating all this area being really careful when we get close to those parts that we base coated so far [Music] once you've got all that silver you're then ready to move on to some baths our goal to break it up a little bit and what we're looking for is small details we can pick out so for example the motor just here on the side of the chopper and things like the shells on the bullets just here [Music] with all those base coats now applied we can move on to putting our first wash onto the miniature because all these colours can be shaded at the same time with a dark brown so in this case i'm going for some anchorage her shade and because i've put on quite a lot i'm going for a large brush here and i've got a monster brush from the army painter for this purpose and when doing this kind of washing on a miniature i like to use a palette to just create a little puddle of the paint to draw from because doing this gives a little bit more control as to how much you have on the brush than you would get going straight from the pot it's really up to you whether you do this or not once you've got something ready it's just a matter of loading up your brush and then applying it over all these colors we've painted so far now obviously we've not painted the skin yet so don't worry if you happen to catch some of the flesh or not it really doesn't matter because we're going to block that in later on anyway but as you're applying it something to watch out for is when you get to those bone white armor panels so for example this one on the shoulder when you're putting the wash onto areas like this you can see it darkens it down quite a lot so what i recommend you do once you've got some on there to get rid of the excess paint off your brush and just sort of absorb away the excess there like that so it stays relatively thin on the flat areas and you don't have to do this but you'll find if you do it just means the layering stage later on is going to be much quicker now once you have apply this all over the miniature just give it plenty of time to dry it'll take around about 45 minutes before you can move on to the next stage [Music] the wash is now completely dry and so we can move on to that big feature of the model which is of course that green skin and when it comes to walks you can paint it in loads different shades of green but in this case i'm going to go for quite a light green so the base coat here is going to be auric flesh and to apply it i'm going to use that medium layer brush once more and with this as ever with base coating all we're looking to do is to block in this detail as neatly as possible so remember to thin the paint down to help out with doing that so you have that control over it and once you've done so all you've got to do is start identifying the skin and blocking it in now as you're doing this now you just need to be really careful whenever you get close to details that you've already base coated so far for example the teeth and the mouth around here just really take your time as you work around those parts and be sure to apply the paint as two thin coats to ensure even coverage before you move on to the next stage [Music] once you've built up that even base coat the next thing to do is to apply a wash over the skin to give it that definition and have a slightly natural appearance here i'm going to go for an olive green wash so a thonian camera shade is the one i picked out and to apply it i'm going to stick to that medium layer brush because this time we need to maintain control over where exactly this paint goes just need to keep it on the skin and avoid everything else so definitely use a palette this time to help control how much is on your brush and once it's got that ready all you got to do is paint it directly over the skin and just let it settle in the recessed detail just to give it some definition [Music] the wash is now completely dry and so we're ready to move on to the next step which is to do a little bit of layering by returning to auric flesh and reapplying it but in a more controlled manner this time to just to neaten up the skin and make it a little bit brighter so to apply it i'm now going for a slightly smaller brush i've actually switched down to a small airbrush here from citadel and this time as we're applying the paint what we need to do is to look for where the shaders settle in that previous step and all those little recesses and things and basically avoid those parts so that's why we need that control over the paint so just make sure you've got it thinned down as ever and just just check out the palette there to make sure the brush isn't overloaded and it's not running out of control with that prepared what we're looking to do then is to identify these recesses and as i mentioned essentially avoid them so for example on the body just here what we're looking at is this kind of pectoral muscle around here so just want to follow that along but when we get to that recess beneath it don't go into the deepest area just there instead skip past it and carry on again on the other side there and same is true just there because it's got a slight recess there and then just there beneath that scar just there same just over there so see it's quite a simple process and the good thing about awk miniatures is that these areas are very well defined so even on the face it's very easy to look for those recesses just take your time avoiding them just painting onto those raised flatter areas [Music] with that layering done you can see now the skin is looking much cleaner and it's much better defined as well and so with that done we can move on to the next step which is to do some highlighting on the skin and here i'm going to use two colors first of all some nurgling green and then after that a little bit of kislev flesh first of all we need the nurgling green and to apply it i'm sticking to that small layer brush and with this what we're looking to do is to apply this color towards the top of each of the muscles so the areas where the light would catch for example to help them stand out a little bit more so to do that make sure the paint's thinned as ever and just bring it down to around about this consistency here and also get rid of the excess paint off your brush because you really don't need very much on there and with this what we're looking to do is to build up this color on those areas so for example on the muscles if we take a look at the arms along here you can see these quite well defined areas what we're looking to do is to go to the top of them where the light's going to come down so this part here and just follow along the crescent of that shape so just along there so the green gets a little bit lighter towards the top of it there like that and it's essentially the same is true on every shape of the muscle so i always look for the top of them so just there for example and just along there and just follow those areas to get those hearts appearing on those parts on the face as well we can use this color too to help bring out the expression on it so what we're looking for again is to find areas but also sharper areas too for example around the mouth and just kind of gently work your way along those parts same on the brow just go along just along there follow it up around the ears there like that just building on that color to get a nice highlight on those parts [Music] once you've finished that highlight we're then ready to move on to a fine highlight of kislev flesh and for this we're looking for the most defined features and also slightly softer bits too for example the lower lip and with areas like this we just need to bring out that texture by just painting it in little lines just gently running along there like that we're also looking for the parts that stand out for example the cheekbones so just little bits there tips of the ears and just on the very top of the nose as well [Music] and with that the green skin is now complete and we can move on to returning to those other details that we originally base coated in a little while ago and the first of these you need to go back to is that pelt so really the scales that are on it because to highlight this kind of thing dry brushing is the perfect technique to really bring out that texture but it's important we do it now because we might catch some other areas around it which we're going to be layering later on so if we do it now we'll clean up as we continue so now what we need is some sons of horus green start to bring this out and to apply it i'm going for a small dry brush from citadel here and a fairly new one too where the bristles are holding together nicely so the brush like this i've got a lot of accuracy with it we're going to do is get a small bit of paint into the brush then just start wiping on some tissue working it into the bristles until there's not much left and when you get this sort of result on the tissue paper all you need to do is start brushing it back and forth across the texture of these scales so looking at this kind of area around here to start going back and forth like this so you get that color catching on that raised texture [Music] with that done we've now got a subtle highlight showing through on those scales and we'll come back for a little bit more later on before we do so what we need to do now is some layering on the miniatures to really brighten and clean some areas up and we're going to start out here on the trousers now remember originally i used mechanical standard gray for these but depending on what color you've chosen for each miniature just go back to that one so we re-established that original mid-tone so mechanical standard gray is what i'm using here and to apply it i'm using our medium layer brush and what we're looking to do with this is well like when we're layering the skin really we're just looking to clean this area of detail up so it's not quite as dark as what we had it with all that wash put over it so what we're looking to do with this color is to apply it just onto the flatter areas so once i paints them down we're just looking for those parts so for example you can see all the creases and things around this part just here on this leg what i'm looking to do is paint it on the flat area just there avoiding that little sort of seam that we've got there now as we get to these creases here i'm looking for those raised flatter areas and avoiding those darker parts where more of that wash is so along there like that retain the definition but also to clean this area up and with that done the trousers are now looking neater so we can move on to doing this onto two of the major colours that appear on the miniature first of all what we need for this is that bone white armor for which we're going to return to wraith bone and then for the yellow armor we're going to return to uriel yellow but first of all we need that wraith bone and to apply it i'm sticking to my medium layer brush here and with this what we're looking to do is the same sort of thing as what we did previously on those trousers so applying it onto the flatter areas avoiding the deeper recesses so we retain that definition from the wash earlier on now remember to do this with this color what you need to do is approach it expecting to have to apply a few thin coats but because we made sure the washer is very thin on the armor we've kind of minimized the amount we need to do here but throughout all of it you just need to look for the recesses and avoid them so for example we're looking at all these scratches and things we've got on the armor here just take your time moving around those just making sure they stay darker in the recessed areas but just apply it under the flat parts so you get a smoother finish to the armor finished applying that layer to the off-white color now giving a much cleaner finish to it so now we need to do the same thing on the yellow using urial yellow and the technique is just the same here we're looking for the flatter parts of the panels and avoiding the recess details such as that little scratch just there and around these rivets [Music] and with that the layering is now complete and we can move on to highlighting these details i'm going to start out with the trousers for which what you need to do is just pick a color that's lighter than the mid-tone that you have and that you layered with earlier on so in this case dawnstone is going to be a great choice and to apply it i'm going for that small layer brush because here what i'm looking to do is just pick out some certain areas on here so kind of the very tops of creases for example so you don't very much but you do need a fine point of the brush to be able to help catch those areas so make sure that paint is over thinned down and just test on the palette to make sure it flows well from your brush and once you've done so it's going to start looking for those parts so for example we're looking at little tears that we've got so this one just here with his knee showing through all you want to do is just very gently follow around the outside just using the side of the brush wherever possible just catch that edge to get a little highlight appearing on those parts there like that then also we've got this seam that comes up from it so in this case what i'm going to do is just angle the model so i'll be painting downwards towards myself and just make sure that i'm just using the point of the brush just to follow down that edge just very lightly on either sides just there and just there finally we're looking for the tops of creases so you can see there's one just there and in this case you might end up turning them onto some quite strange angles but if you're painting downwards and towards yourself it's very easy to follow that top point of them there like that to get a nice highlight on the creases such as just there [Music] and with that the trousers are now finished and we can move on to highlighting the next detail which is going to be that pelt on the back and again here what you need to do is pick out a color that's appropriate to the kind of thing you're doing so a little bit lighter than what you used previously in this case i'm going to be using some administration gray which is lighter of course than the greyish greens that we've been using so far is going to just stand out as a final heart in this area so to apply it i'm actually going to switch to a smaller brush now i've got a detail brush here from the army painter because i want lots of control on this because as you've seen the scales are quite small i'm just going to be doing very small amounts on these but to help out with that as ever make sure the paint's thinned down and that your brush isn't overloaded so i'm just bringing it down to around about that point just there with that sorted out then what i'm going to do is start out first of all on the spines so for these initially what i want to do is get highlight down this kind of like edge of it just there and to do this you can use the side of your brush just skim along so the color just catches that corner and this way you can build up a nice fine highlight on that area very quickly and very easily now down the side instead what we need to do is to paint downwards following that shape so just make sure you're nice and comfortable and just turn the model see looking down that line and then just follow it down with a fine highlight of that color like that to the point where it just changes direction and turn the model and carry on again down a little bit further and when it comes to the scales there's not a great deal to do here all we're looking to do is just helps just make some of them stand out a little bit more where that dry brushing has caught them and helps them stand out already so it's kind of pushing it a little bit further so for example these top edges here that have been caught on that dry brush quite a bit i'm just going to go along those just very light like that just to give that fine highlight just to pick that texture out a little bit more [Music] and with that highlight applied the scales are now complete and we can move on to those colored armor panels and for this for that off-white one first of all we need a pure white to highlight it so here i'm going to use the matte white from the army painter then for the yellow what we'll need is some phalanx yellow and then for the red we need a little bit of evil some scarlet and at the same time we can use that to pick out the eyes as well but first of all we need that matte white and to apply it i'm sticking to the detail brush and you can see i've actually already got some on the palette just here this little dollop and all i'm going to do is introduce the water into it at the side and just draw some of that paint into it so i can get a nice mix here just adjusting the consistency as i need to until it flows really nicely from the brush so around about that point there is good and with that achieved all you've got to do is make sure the brush isn't overloaded and then on the off-white details we're first of all looking for the hard edges on them and when you find them such as around the shoulder plate just here angle the brush about 45 degrees from the flat and just skim down that edge like that so you get a nice highlight appearing along there very quickly and easily just turn the model down as you need to to make sure you're nice and comfortable so you can follow it all the way around in addition with this color what we need to do is pick out the rivets that appear on these details too for example this one just there and just there there's also these scratches in the armor when it comes to these just angle the model so you're painting down along the edge of them and just practice one or two little just runs like that so you're kind of making that motion there and all you do using the tip of the brush is just follow along either side so just like that to get a nice highlight on those areas [Music] with all that white now highlighted we can move on to the yellow and for this what we need is some phalanx yellow and the application is identical to what we've just done just make sure the miniature is nice and steady as you approach it wherever possible using the side of your brush to pick out those edges let's take your time working around them [Music] and finally we're ready to highlight all the red panels using some evilson scarlet applied using the exact same technique so once again just using the side of the brush to skim all the way around wherever possible now in addition with this color at this stage we can also pick out the eyes and when you're doing this just really brace your hands you're nice and steady it's very gently moving just to pick them out with the tip of the brush [Music] and with that those colours highlighting the armor are now completed and we can move on to highlighting some of the details too and now what we're looking at is first of all the teeth for which we need two colours first of all a highlight of a shabti bone and then a very fine highlighted screaming skull to give the impression of sharpness now after that we can then finish off the leather and for this what we need is mechanical standard gray for the black leather on the boots and then after that we need a little bit of scrag brown as for the brown leather straps but first of all we need a sharpie bone and to apply it i'm sticking to my detail brush here and with this what we're looking to do is to paint the color onto most of each of these teeth but just leaving some of that dark color showing through the very base of them so they get light towards the tips so once you've got that paint thing and ready as ever all we've got to do is start doing that on the actual miniature and so for example the teeth inside the mouth just here i'm looking to do is to just pick out the raised part of them just very gently with the tip of the brush just in a downward motion like that so i get more of that color catching towards the top and it gets a little bit darker the further down you go [Music] once that's done the next thing you're going to need is some screaming skull and with this all we're looking to do is to pick out the very tips of each tooth and what this will do is just give the impression of that sharp point on the very end of each one so just a small amount of the color just very carefully applied and there we are the teeth are done now i did forget to mention but with screaming skull i also picked out all the stitching that appears on the back of the trousers and also the boots and well with that done we can now move on to mechanical standard gray and this is for the boot so what we're looking to do is again look for any sharper edges and using the side of the brush just pick them out wherever possible if you can't quite reach them with the side then instead just turn the model see nice and comfortable and just follow that edge all the way down and finally we're ready for some scrag brown and this is to highlight all that brown leather so once again just looking for the edges and just gently working your way around them [Music] and with that those highlights have been applied and now we can move on to highlighting the last two areas of detail on the miniature which are going to be the metallic colours so the bronze and silver and for the bronze what we need is some liberator gold then for the silver we need some stormhost silver but first of all the liberator gold to apply it i'm sticking to that detail brush because the application here is just the same as what we've been doing as ever just make sure the paint's nicely thinned out on your palette and under control and once you've done so you're just looking for the edges of these bronze areas of detail so for example on this gun just here i'm looking at this edge along here and i can actually approach using the side of the brush very gently just making sure i'm comfortable nice and steady really braced and then just work my way down that edge there like that and just change the angle and adjust as you need to so for the soft edges paint downwards such as this one along here just to get a nice highlight running along that area of detail [Music] and with that done to the bronze we can now repeat this process on the silver details using stormhost silver once again looking for all those edges and just following along each one [Music] and with those metallics now highlighted we've finished highlighting the miniature and in fact you could from here just go on to base the model and put on the tabletop and it'll look fantastic but if you really want to bring it to life what you need to do is add some weathering which of course is very appropriate for orcs with how they tend to handle their equipment so that's what we're going to do now starting out with some chipping i'm going to focus on doing this on that bone white armor and to do this what i need is some rhinoxide first of all to create the actual chips and then to really build the illusion of depth gonna highlight them using matte white now bear in mind if you've got some areas of the other colored parts of armor which are quite large and you want to do the chip into those as well for the highlight what you'll need is the appropriate highlight that part so for example for the yellow you'll need phalanx yellow for the red you'll need evilson scarlet but as i mentioned i'm going to be focusing on that bone white armor and so to do it i'm going to start out with rhinox hide and there's going to be kind of two stages to doing this first of all what you need is a little bit of sponge and you can see i just got some here i'm just kind of ripped into a bit of a chisel point like that because i'm going to use that to direct where exactly the chips are going to go and to get it ready all you got to do is just get some of this paint onto the sponge so very carefully like that and then on your pallet start dotting like this so it gets rid of most of the paint and you want to be bringing it down to a point there's only a few speckles appearing now this is directly what's going to happen on your miniature so you can see that's why i'm really testing it so much i'm just going and going and going and going and so i'm getting to that sort of effect there so you see it's much much lighter now and so with that achieved what i'm looking to do is to apply it onto the parts of this armor plating right here where it's going to get chipped along the edges so for example on the kind of jagged points we've got there it's going to start dotting it along so i get a random little bit of speckling appearing on those areas and then we can add a few onto the flatter areas too by just very lightly just touching onto it like that so we get a few little brown marks there like that now i recommend you don't go overboard with this because if you do do too much you can kind of take away from that white armor effect still a few little bits like that just to give the impression of the chipping and then look for any other parts where you normally have this happen too so for example in this chopper you can see the kind of chain tooth edge that'll obviously get torn up quite a bit along there so i'm going to do a little bit heavier along that part there but really it's just the same sort of technique now when you're happy with the chips doing it like this the next thing to do is just to connect a few of them and for that what you need to do is to switch to a small brush so back to the detail brush here and with this what we're going to do is sort of like an edge highlight but very broken up very selective so you don't need to do very much of it to get it ready as ever just make sure the paint's nicely thinned down to about that sort of point there and then what we're looking to do is to just identify some of these chips so for example the ones along there and just kind of do a little broken line along the edge so just a little bit like that to help connect some of them together [Music] once you're happy with the chipping the next thing to do is to highlight it with some matte white and with this all we've got to do is just dot it directly beneath each chip so just there for example and what this will do is create the illusion of depth in these chips now remember i'm doing this in the bone white armor which is why i'm using white for the highlight but if you've done this on the yellow or the red just be sure to pick the appropriate highlight for that detail [Music] and with that the chipping is complete and so now i can move on to the final weathering effects in the miniature to finish it off and for this i'm going to add some rust using some scrag brown and then after that a little bit of verdigris and for this we need some nylic oxide the first one i'm going to use the scrag brown and to make this into rust what you need to do is just get a small brush i'm using my detail brush once again and with this what you do is heavily water it down with just water so really really thin it down to about well even thinner than this like really adding a lot of water to it until you get to around about this point here so you see it's very very watery and then just make sure you have a small amount on your brush and all you do is just start washing this onto some of the metal so for example on the shopper just here all you do is look for areas where water would collect for example in the recess just there and just gently just wash it into that area just very thinly like that and when this dries it'll give the subtle orange for rust [Music] once you're happy with that rust effect the next thing you can add is some verdigris using nylic oxide and with this once again what we're looking for on these brass areas now is areas where water would collect so for example around areas such as just there just little subtle recesses and also around the rivets on his pistol so for example just there now with this done your miniature is ready to be based and as ever it's entirely up to you how you base it but in this case i'm going to go for a desert base because this miniature really reminds me of the old game gorka [Music] monk [Music] so [Music] and here we have the completed beast snagger boy ready to go and join his mates and fight against the imperium so when you're painting these miniatures as you've seen the techniques are actually quite easy to replicate to get a really nice result but a key thing to remember when you're painting a mob of these miniatures is to have a few details of which you can just swap around the colours a little bit to get some variety but when it comes to the armor keep it consistent to retain that unified lock so remember just varies on things like the trousers and also those pelts anyway have fun painting your orcs and we'll see you again very soon you

Channel: Duncan Rhodes Painting Academy

Views: 92,536

Keywords: Duncan Rhodes, Duncan Rhodes Painting Academy, Miniature Painting, Wargaming, Painting Warhammer, Painting my warhammer, 40K, Warhammer 40000, start painting miniatures, beginners painting, beast snagga ork boys, games workshop, miniatures, orks

Id: EHxvAN7haMs

Length: 29min 29sec (1769 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 06 2021