How to paint 2nd Edition Ultramarines Terminators (1989)

[Music] hey everybody we've got a fun video here for you because what we're going to do is paint something retro because a friend of ours sent in this box terminator squad the old classic one from the days of rogue trader it's dated on the back of the box says 1989 and i can sort of vaguely remember this being on sale and like car boot sales and things like that because actually out of production when i first got into the hobby in 97 and this is great it's really fun it's great to finally see what these models are like inside the set and what we thought we'd do is paint it in a real sort of retro style now on this channel we've already done a blood angel in a classic colour scheme the second edition version but for this one we thought instead we do an ultramarine in that really old school style so this means it's going to be a really bright blue red gun casings no gold instead is going to be yellow and also we're going to have those hazard markings on the power fist just so you know it's dangerous it's going to be a lot of fun we hope you enjoy it and we'll see you at the desk [Music] to paint our ultramarines terminator i've decided to take a look at the colours of what they were like at the very dawn of second edition and so that means lots of bright punchy colours here and so for our terminator what we need to do is start out with an undercoat that's going to help out with that especially with that blue armor so i've decided to undercoat the miniature using the crag blue spray from citadel and what we're going to do is start out with the blue armor which actually is a bit different because whilst the crack blue is the color for the modern day ultramarines back at the time we're looking at they are actually brighter than this with a color called ultramarines blue now it is actually possible to get this color from a company called coat arms but in this case i'm going to be using some modern citadel paints because they're easier to get hold of in this case what i've got is outdoor guard blue which is the closest approximation of the color of what they were back in the day so what we need to do is start out by applying this over the terminator on that blue armor and so to do it go for a good brush that's good at base coating quickly i'm using a small dry brush here from the army painter because this is great for this kind of rough application that we're going to be doing here and we need to do is to get some on the pallet as ever thinned down that touch of water to make sure it's nice and smooth and so we don't clog up any detail and once you've got that thin down like that all we've got to do is start blocking in all of the armor that we want to be blue so at this stage don't worry about anything else like the helmet's going to be white later on all those sorts of details we just want to make sure we get all that plating that's going to be blue underneath the base coat of this color so as you can see it's a little bit translucent so i will be applying it as two thin coats with that lighter blue base coat now applied to the armor we're ready to do some shading on it and for this what we're going to do is apply a wash over the miniature to get that definition and i don't want to take away too much from the blueness here so i'm actually going to use a dark blue wash dracon off nightshade is the one i'm going to use but this is a very strong paint which can make it quite murky so what i'm going to do just take the edge off it with some lamy medium so what we need to do is create the mix on the palette first of all and for this i have a monster brush in the army painter so a good large brush for this and what we need to do is start out by just getting some of that blue on here and you can see what i mean it's a very strong very dark colorless so what we need to do then is just get some of the medium so as i have just gonna wash the brush to make sure that we don't contaminate it with any color and then i want a roughly equal amount of this so i'm gonna go for two brush fulls and by having the medium mixed in with this what we'll get is the paint drying in a nice smooth fashion rather than with water in which case it would go quite dry so it's going to be a nice result for this sort of thing so you want to bring it down to around about this kind of consistency here you see much diluted from what it was and then with this all we've got to do is paint it directly over all that blue armor so it settles in all recessed details so for example around here letting it settle and give those dark little bits of shading and all those nooks and grannies now some of the flatter panels it will go a little bit patchy in some areas it will pull over so slightly just because the nature of the wash but don't worry about that we'll fix that up soon [Music] once the mix is completely dry you can see now i've got some definition on the armor but it has darkened things down a little bit and it is a little bit murky on some flat panels so we just need to fix that up now by returning to outdoor guard blue but this time we're going to layer it onto the armor so smoothly applying it onto the flat surfaces and avoiding the recesses so to do this go for a medium-sized brush i'm using here a medium layer brush from citadel and we're back to this colour which we once again need to thin down with just a little bit of water and this time apply it in a much more precise way so just make sure you don't have loads on your brush and that you got a good tip on there by just twisting the brush bringing the bristles together and then with this we're looking for those flat panels so for example if we look at this leg just here we're looking at applying it onto the flat of that area so all the way across here but when you get to recess details where there's some more shadow in so for example as we get down to his foot just here or to the upper leg just there what we do is skip past the recess and then carry on again on the other side so in this case we'll just be doing a little bit around there then skipping past towards the toe area here and just painting the flat of that along there [Music] with that layering done we're going to leave the blue for the time being and start blocking in some other colors on the miniature and here we're going to first of all take a look at some parts that are going to be nice and bright and some of them are decoration because some parts here you might think would be gold but like in these days they're actually yellow instead so what we're going to do is set up now for some areas that are going to be white and also this bright yellow by painting them with an off-white corax white is the color i'm going to use here which is great for its coverage but it can be a little bit thick straight out the pot so when you're using this just definitely make sure you thin it down on your palette first of all now for this i'm using my medium layer brush once again and all we got to do is just make sure it is thinned down so it's not going to clog up any detail and we really want to bring it down to around about this sort of point here and with this expect to have to apply two or three thin coats of it and it is important we get an even finish here so none of the blue shows through when we move on to the yellow later on and start to turn it greenish so what we need to do is get loaded up then and start looking for these areas so to begin with we want to look for things that are going to be yellow later on so this kind of chest design that we've got just here we need to pick out the wing design and the skull in the center so all this parts along here but also we've got the main body of the power glove because this is still a parallel at this stage it's not called a power fist just yet what we want to do is paint in the main body of it around here so as neatly as possible just going up to that blue trim just along there in addition of course we have the helmet which is going to be a white helmet as this terminator is a veteran from the first company so for this case what we need to do is just carefully block all this in being as neat as possible when we get to that blue armor that's surrounding it [Music] once you have an even finish for the corax white the next thing to do is to stain these areas with some color and here we need two both of them are contrast paints so first of all what we need is a pothkery white and it's going to be for the white helmet and then after that we need some iron in yellow and this is going to give us that bright yellow very quickly but first of all we need a path carry white to apply some sticking to that medium layer brush and with this what we need to do is just get a small amount ready on the palette just to make sure that we don't put on too much at once you see having it on here just gives a little bit more control and with this we just got to paint it directly over the whites of the helmet to give it some shading so all the way over like this so it settles in those recesses and some will settle on the flat areas but don't worry we will be coming back to that later on [Music] once the contrast paint on the helmet is dry we're then ready to repeat this process but this time with iron and yellow on the parts that are going to be yellow so for example the chest design all we need to do is paint it directly over the top of the white to get that bright punchy yellow now on the power glove it'll probably go a little bit blotchy because the surface is so large and smooth so don't worry about that for the time being we will return to it later on once again to neaten that up with that contrast paint also completely dry our yellow is now marked in and once again we'll return to that later on just to neaten it up but now what we've got to do is a few more base coats starting out with some red because guns for the ultramarines this time they weren't black they were actually red really bright red too so here i'm going to be using some evilson scarlet now to apply it i'm sticking to that medium layer brush and this is one of those layer paint so it's going to be a little bit translucent putting it on here as a base coat but it's just a matter of applying it as a few thin coats once again so two or three should be fine however you just need to make sure you thin it down slightly with that water and then it's just a matter of blocking this area in there's not much really in the case of this one it's just kind of this coating here on the storm bolt around this area so we're looking at blocking in this sort of detail on this side going around here all up to the top and there's some more on the other side along here as well [Music] i finished blocking in that red and so now you can see we've actually got all three primary colors on our space marine so really nice and colorful perfect for the time and what we need to do now is add a few more base coats which we're all going to be sharing the same wash which will be a black wash and there's three more to do here first of all what we need is a silver so i'm going to use some lead belch for this and then a very small amount of bronze so here i'm going to use some bath star gold then finally we can base coat some black details and here i'm going to use some cordless black but first of all what we need is lead belcher and to apply it i'm still going to be using that medium layer brush but at this stage it's a good idea to have a smaller one on hand for some of the finer details because now we're looking for anything that we want to be silver so any sort of mechanical detail so pipes the working parts of a storm bolter things like that all we've got to do is start working around the miniature looking for those parts and blocking them in so for example on this bolt just here looking at all these kind of metal details that's so coming surrounded by that casing so this sort of area around here just neatly as possible looking for all those areas and blocking them in [Music] once you've found all that silver the next thing to do is to move onto a bronze so here i have balthazar gold and this is for the shells that appear in the storm bolter so we're looking at this area just down here [Music] and finally we just need a little bit of corvus black and this is to pick out all the soft joints in the armor such as around here and also the underside of the feet as well [Music] and with that all those joints have been base coated too and so now ready to apply or wash these new colors that we've just been applying and this time what we need is a black wash so for this i'm going to use some non-oil and to apply it i've now got a small layer brush from citadel for just a little bit more control than what we had in previous stages because it's important that we keep this just in these new colors so everything from the red onwards essentially so just get a little puddle on your palettes to draw from to make sure we don't have too much and it's just a matter of looking for these areas and applying this color over the top of them so for example on this bolter we're looking at going all the way across here so it settles in that recess detail and gives definition including going over the red so just around there and also we need to paint on the black of the joints as well [Music] the black wash is completely dry and before we move on i just want to quickly point out i also ran some of it into the eye lenses on the helmet too just to darken them down as well as a little vent on the forehead and with that done we can now move on to the next stage which is going to be to start layering some of the colors that we've got on here and the first of these is going to be the yellow for this what we need is some urea yellow and to apply it i've gone to the medium layer brush and mainly this is to even out the yellow parts that we've got so far because we've already got a pretty good yellow on there but it's a bit blotchy so this is just going to help fix that up so we don't need loads has ever thinned out on the palette so it's nice and smooth so let's add a touch of water until you get to about this point and then we just need to block these areas in so for example on the power glove you can see it's a little bit blotchy on there so what we're going to do is just apply a smooth coat of this over the top just to even that out and on the chest design i'm going to do the exact same thing but this time looking for those raised areas because there's lots of recesses here that we need to avoid so just approach using the side of your brush just skimming along to get that yellow on the raised up areas [Music] with that stage done you can see we now have a much smoother finish to all of that yellow and so we can move on to doing the same thing on two other areas because first of all we need to return to the helmet and for the white here what we're going to do is mix a color that's a little bit lighter than what we've got already to bring it closer to a pure white but not quite a pure white so we saw somewhere to go for a highlight so here we're going to be mixing some matte white from the army painter with some corax white and once that's done we can then move on to the red of the layer here what we need to do is return to evilson scarlet but first we need to make that mix and on the palette i do already have my matte white just there i'm just going to introduce some corax white to it roughly 50 50. it doesn't have to be exact but you can see one of them next to each other how much of a gray that color is so if i mix them together we're just going to push it a little bit closer to a pure white kind of to it around about that sort of point there so with that mix made all we're going to do is make sure it's as ever thinned down because what we want to do here is carefully apply it so that we're going to be avoiding all the recessed detail and just applying to the smoother flatter areas really so just make sure you've got a good tip in your brush and then you load it up and then we just got to look for those areas so for example on the helmet what we're looking to do is to go for areas such as this little bit here on the forehead but not going quite into the recess of that vent leaving it just a little bit darker there to retain that definition same as we move down to the forehead once i skip past that recess leaving that slight grayish blue there and just carry on again on the other side [Music] now the helmet's a little bit closer to a pure white we can move on to doing a layer on the gun here because we need to layer the red and so here we're returning to evilson scarlet and once again we're looking at applying on the flatter areas which is going to be most of it here just not going quite to the corner where it meets the silver so we get a little bit of definition between the two colors [Music] and with that the layering on the gun is complete and so now we can move on to adding some highlights onto the terminator i'm going to start out with that blue armor and for this we're going to be doing two highlights first of all i'm going to use some kalgar blue all around the armor and then to push it a little bit further into some select areas but then i'm going to do a second edge highlight of fenrir's ian grey but first of all we need some kalgar blue and to apply it i'm again going to use that small airbrush and here what we're looking to do is to find all the sharp edges on the armor and essentially follow around them with this color to help them pop out a little bit more so we need lots of fine control over it so what you need to do is as everything the paint down just a little bit more than normal and then just make sure it's flowing well from your brush you always test on the palette too ideally you want to have it so that we can quite easily paint some fine lines like that you see it's coming quite well from the brush there so i'm happy with that so we can go along there and with this what we need to do then is first of all look for any more defined sharper edges just bearing in mind that because it's an older miniature often these edges are going to be a little bit soft but sometimes you get sharp ones such as on the back of the armor just there when you spot those just approach at about 45 degrees from the flat and just gently skim along with the side of your brush to get the fine highlight running across an area such as along there but often as i mentioned with these older models these edges aren't going to be quite sharp enough to do that or they're going to be quite hidden away in which case what we need to do is start using the tip of the brush so in that case we just need to move into areas such as around here in the leg and just very carefully look for the edge and using the tip of the brush just gently skim along it there like that same with these bands kind of going down just paint downwards in that motion towards yourself so you're doing this kind of natural sweeping motion just looking for that edge with the tip of the brush just gently following along [Music] with that edge highlight now applied to all the blue armor we're ready to push it just a little bit further with a finer edge highlight of fenris and gray and rather than doing everywhere with this one what we're looking for is sharp corners like this kind of one here we've got these three points coming together what we want to do is very lightly just start grazing this color along that part just to make it a little bit lighter on that area just to help these just pop out a little bit more so it's any kind of edge like that including ones such as the points that we've got on the bottom of the shoulder plates around here just any sharp point just very lightly highlight around those [Music] and then with that the blue parts of the armor are now complete and we can move on now to highlighting those other three main colors that appear in the miniatures starting out with the yellow for which we need a really bright yellow so here i'm going to use some flash gets yellow after that we need to highlight the helmet and for this we need a pure white so here i'm going to use some matte white then finally to highlight the red casing on the storm bolter what we'll need is some wild rider red the first one we need flash gets yellow and to apply it it's going to be very much the same sort of techniques what we were doing on the blue so here i'm using that small airbrush once again and with this just need a small amount with which we can use this to start picking out these sharp edges that appear on the yellow which is mostly going to be on the design on the chest so you don't need loads you just need to get it ready and then start looking for those edges so for example the design just here what we want to do is catch that sharper line towards the top of that wing design so just very gently run it along there for that bright flash of yellow same with the skull in the middle just across the top of its head and then just around the eyes and a little bit around where the teeth are as well and we want to highlight these kind of wing designs these sort of feathers that we've got really coming down from here just looking for that edge that kind of overlaps the part underneath so we're just going to go on there along there along there all the way down now when it comes to the power glove for this we don't need to do very much just a small little flash of this color close to where it meets the blue around this sort of area here so just kind of following it around this sort of area very closely to where it meets the blue [Music] with that yellow completed we can now move on to finishing off the white and here we need matte white on its own this time applied once again as an edge highlight just picking out all those sharp edges on the helmet [Music] and there we are the white is complete and so now we can move on to highlighting the red as well and for this what we need is some wild rider red once again applied as an edge highlight to really help this color pop [Music] and with that applied we've now highlighted all those really bright colors and well now it really looks like it belongs in 1989 or indeed the early 90s and as garish as it is i must admit i actually really like it it makes me feel really nostalgic so i'm really happy with this but we still got a few more colors to highlight starting out with some silver so we now need some stormhost silver and then for the black detail we need mechanical standard gray but first we need that stormhost silver and this is going to be the same sort of application for what we've just been doing on those brighter colors we're looking for all the sharper edges of these details so just set up the paint ready for that sort of thing make sure it's nice and smooth like this and then we're just looking for those corners all the silver details so such as on the storm bolter here it's looking to edge highlight all the way around these sharp edges [Music] with all that silver highlighted we're now ready to move on to highlighting the black such as the undersuit round here for this need mechanic as standard grey and with this just need to carefully move in and start picking out those raised parts of the texture [Music] the black is now complete and so we've highlighted the colours that we've got in the miniature so far but there are still a few of the details you need to pick out and the first of those is going to be that crooks terminators and numerous skulls up here around the miniature and whilst this will be stoned back in these days these parts will be painted in kind of a bone color so that's what we're going to go for here and to do it i'm going to start out with a base coat of zandry dust and then wash over them with some serra from sepia first we need xandry dust and to apply it i'm going to stick to that small layer brush for lots of control at this stage and for this we're going to do is block these parts in so it's just a matter of getting that paint ready for it and then looking for these details now the most obvious one is the crux terminators on the shoulder plate just here and so we want to block in the entire thing at this stage with two thin coats just to make sure we've got that even finish before moving on but in addition we're looking for some smaller details too such as the smaller one that appears on this knee down here and also any skulls that might be on the miniature except for the one on the chest there so such as this one that we've got on the belt buckle [Music] with that base coat done we're then ready to carefully apply a wash of seraphim sepia all over these details using that small airbrush again for lots of control and you can see it stains it with a little bit of yellow giving it that sort of strange yellowy bone appearance that they used to go for back in the late 80s and early 90s [Music] once that wash is completely dry we can then move on to the next stage of painting all that detail which is going to be first of all to layer it with some shabti bone then highlight it with some screaming skull but for a shabti bone what we want to do is apply as a thin layer so some of that yellow shows through so when you're getting this ready of course make sure you thin it down as usual but just a little bit more than normal so just a bit more water mixing there just to make it a bit thin and a bit translucent and with this once you've just got a small amount in your brush it's just a matter of applying it onto those flat erase surfaces whilst avoiding the recesses so if we take a look at the top of the crook stamina here we're looking at kind of layering it smoothly over this part you see thinly so some of that yellow shows through and following it around there but then as we get to the recess where it kind of goes to this circle to skip past the deepest area and just carry on again on the flat before then reaching that next part [Music] and then finally we're ready to finish off all these details with an edge highlight of screaming skull applied as neatly as possible just following all those sharp edges all the way around [Music] with those markings now fully painted we can move in for some really small detail and for this we need to paint in the eyes now and for here what we're going to do is start out with the dark red for a base coat so we need some corn red for this and then we're just going to pick some out in the middle with a bright orange so for this i'm going to use some troll slayer orange but first what we need is that corn red and then when applying this it's all a matter of being as neat as possible really because we just need to paint out the pick out the kind of raised up detail of the actual eye lens so that sort of smooth around shape of it so really make sure that paint's under control and then we're just going to be careful as we move in to block this out so what we need to do is take advantage of that black wash that we put in earlier on which has outlined it and basically just painting towards the middle so we leave a little bit of that black still showing around the outer edge so just super carefully like that [Music] with that base coat done we're now ready to add some troll slayer orange and with this we just need to very carefully move in just to pick out the middle of each lens [Music] and with that the eyes are complete and so we can move on to the next small detail which might be small but it's actually extremely important because as we all know a power glove is a very dangerous object but the thing is the enemy might not know this so what we need to do is to paint some hazard stripes on that power glove now just to make sure it looks like it's really dangerous and hazardous so for this what we need is a pure black and i'm going to use some matte black from the army painter for it and to apply it definitely use your small brush i have my small airbrush from citadel just here and with this what we need to do is make sure it's thinned down almost inky so kind of bring it down to this sort of point here because it's really important that it applies smoothly we can always do two coats if we need to but it's really important i have that control to get these lines straight and to do this we need to kind of make them horizontal if the fist was lined up that way so we're looking at kind of having them going across like that so what we need to do is make sure we angle the model so we're painting downwards towards ourselves in a comfortable fashion to get that line so sometimes means turn the model quite strangely to kind of this sort of point here but then just slowly starting to put in your initial guideline like that so quite thinly to begin with then gradually start working it out on either side like this now once you're happy with the position of it after you just built it up a little bit like that you can see it is sort of translucent but it's not really an issue because we'll just apply two thin coats to get that nice finish to it but just a matter of building it up and then once you're happy with that rough position of it just skipping along a little bit start putting the next one in so it's going to carry on a little bit to around about there and start applying the next one in again in that downward motion just slowly building it up so just neatly neatly gradually working it out until we're happy with it and really it's just a matter of doing this all the way around now the good thing about a fist like this is that it's actually quite close to the body on the inside there meaning that the lines don't have to match up all the way around because that kind of hides the transition so use that to your advantage there but if you do happen to make any mistakes with this bright yellow what you'll need to do is go back to some corax white to first of all blocked out where the mistake was then go over the top again with your real yellow to ensure you get that strong yellow once more [Music] and there we are we now have the hazard stripes and the power fist so now next time this terminator punches someone so hard they literally explode no one can say that he didn't warn them first but with that done we're now ready to move on to the next thing we're going to do which is to do the base on the miniature and the first stage we're doing this is to glue some sand onto it so what i'm going to do is go away now and do that with some pva glue and when we come back we're going to encounter one of the most monumental occasions of any painting video that we've ever done so we'll see in a moment the sand is now completely dry and so to all of our wonderful viewers we now have a very special moment for you because this isn't the first time we've done a retro miniature like this because we have done a blood angel before and when we got to doing the base of that miniature we had to make do with some warbos green which is very similar to the classic green that was used on models that were painted in the style that we're going for here but one of the viewers that watched that video took pity on us and got in touch and has donated us a bottle of the real deal here it is everybody a bottle of goblin green so thank you very much peter thank you for sending this to us and now we're going to finally put it to some good use now this paint is a real classic one and this actually appeared in all miniatures of the time that were well on any kind of battlefield it didn't matter what it was it could have been a spatial could be necromunda this is how the bases were painted and for it what we need to do first of all is soak it into the sand so you can see it's the good old classic bottle just here just need to get some of this green onto the palette and then really heavily thin it down with water so it's very very runny so plenty of water really bringing it down like this with a good large brush i'm using my monster brush here from the army painter and with that thin down all we need to do is start soaking it into the sand and just start dotting it on just letting it run in like that so it soaks in and then we just need to give it about 20 minutes to dry [Music] the goblin green is now completely dry but what we need to do now is just add that extra touch of realism to this grassy base that we have here by adding a highlight of yellow and so what we need here is some urea yellow now to apply a dry brush on a base like this to pick out the texture i find using a normal dry brush can be a little bit difficult to control and it's very easy to catch the feet by accident so for things like this what i like to use actually is an older medium sized brush and i've got one here an old regiment brush that i keep for this kind of thing and what i'm going to do is dry brush with it on that area now setting up a brush like this for an old dry brush is a little bit different because if you're doing the usual kind of way like that you'll really split the bristles so instead i just hold it sideways like this and just go back and forth in the tissue in this way because this way we get that paint in the bristles and also remove the excess like a regular dry brush and with that prepared then all we've got to do is start flying this onto the sand by just going back and forth very lightly and you can see this thing gives me much more control as i get close to the feet because i can get areas like that and just follow the top of that texture now once this is done all you need to do is paint the rim of the base and in this case i'm once again going to be going for some goblin green and then the transfers need to be applied and once that's done the terminator is ready for the battlefields of the far future or the early 90s [Music] and here we have the completed terminator in his bright blue armor ready to dazzle his enemies into submission so as you've seen a project like this is actually a lot of fun painting miniature in a retro style and if it has caught your interest then what you should do is take a look on the internet for old hammer and middle hammer which is essentially retro wargaming playing an older edition of something like warhammer and where possible using the miniatures that are available in the day to do so something like this is a lot of fun it's a great little project to try out and it's also really fun to try looking for all the miniatures secondhand and see if you can get those originals so have fun with it and we'll see you again very soon

Channel: Duncan Rhodes Painting Academy

Views: 44,141

Keywords: Duncan Rhodes, Duncan Rhodes Painting Academy, Miniature Painting, Wargaming, Space Marines, Warhammer 40000, 40K, Rogue Trader, Ultramarines, Painting Warhammer, Terminators

Id: OlcR0PwpvsM

Length: 27min 12sec (1632 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 19 2021