How to Make a TESLA Powered ELECTRIC VW Karmann Ghia

today we're going to show you how to convert this 1969 karma gear into an electric vehicle using evs kit [Music] [Applause] [Music] hey the 1969 volkswagen karmann gea the sportiest model in the bw lineup a perfect candidate for the next ev outputs electric conversion project step one remove all the old equipment the gas engine the gas tank all the stuff that you're not gonna need get it off the car [Music] right after removing the gas tank you'll have to remove the pedal assembly some of the gear models will have an assembly like this that has an extra piece that you will have to cut because this will actually get in the way of the new pedal that you're going to install in there so you're gonna have to remove this pin right here to remove the clutch and separate the clutch the brake and the accelerator out so that you can have this piece free and then you can cut right in front of this bolt hole right here that's what it should look like then you can hit this with a just a regular grinder soften it up the edges like every true craftsman you have to make the parts look nice so we're gonna paint this all right now that you've removed all the equipment that you don't need out of your vehicle now it's time to look at your ev west kit you should have everything that you see pictured here i'm going to go down the list start with the 12 tesla modules this is 36 kilowatt hours worth of battery and this comes with your kit ac ac50-96 motor this is your motor and controller kit you're also going to get a tvs electronics expert pro you'll get a deltic 600 amp 50 millivolt shunt one bw billet aluminum transmission adapter then you'll have your lcon 2.5 kilowatt charger j1772 32 amp receptacle socket only on the j1772 avc2 you're also going to get an ev west curtis 1232 1239 chill plate then you're going to get your entire liquid cooling kit you're going to get a toyota prius use throttle pedal with a plug make sure you have the plug also included with the kit is going to be a prius pedal mount this is a specific mount that is made for bw so you can mount your prius pedal you'll have a gigaback switch hbd41 you'll have a contactor box three of the ultra safe fuse holder for atm fuses two ev fuse 600 volt 30 amp one ev fuse 600 volt 10 amp atm 10 you'll get two of the high voltage current fuse holders two of the high voltage shoes 300 volt 400 amp 14 heavy duty ring terminals two odd 5 16 or m8 volts and then you'll have six heavy duty ring terminals two odd half inch for your m12 volt you'll get 24 inches of two out to four odd heat shrink you'll get 10 mpt three quarter gland nut cable holds two of the bw ghia motor side plates and one of the ghia firewall cover avs plastic one of the ac50-51 hpvs two odd three-phase cable set your kit is going to come with 50 feet of two odd cable you're also going to get a 400 watt dc to dc converter you're going to get one brake pressure transducer eight of the one odd battery terminal boots black and then you're gonna get three of the one out battery terminal boots red and also in that picture here you're gonna get your aluminum brackets that are made to hold your 12 smart tesla modules into your car next you're going to have to decide if your transmission is good enough as is or if you need to rebuild it in our case it's coming off to be sent out to a local rebuild shop at this point it is a good idea to take care of any issues that the 12-volt wiring might have put that out of the way the next thing is wiring the wiring of an electric vehicle can seem daunting to some but with a little planning it can actually be very straightforward let's take a look at the main wiring diagram available for this conversion designed to show the connections between all the components this particular version is a generic diagram not accurately showing components placement in relative terms take for example the j1772 charge inlet and the battery charger the electrical connections between the two seem short and even though this might be possible in some conversions in this particular vehicle the charge inlet will be installed all the way in the front of the car while the charger will be all the way in the back the same goes for the state of charge meter and the voltage prescaler right next to it one will be on the dash while the other is going to be inside the contactor box under this rear seat in order to simplify things we suggest doing the following placing all the components in this overhead drawing of the gea will help us determine what wiring will go where we recommend running multi-conductor shielded cable to every component instead of using the leads in the wiring harness shielded cable is not included in your kit so you will have to source it yourself in our case we ended up using three cables one four conductor and two three conductor the first one is for the throttle pedal and the brake transducer the second is for the forward reverse switch and the third will be for the region and menu buttons giving yourself around 15 feet of slack in each of the three cables splice them into the existing leads coming out of the ampsil 35 connector on the specified pins next let's make the twisted pair cable for the shunt and add it to the harness all right now that you got your wiring harness ready to go the way you want it it's time to install it in the car but first i recommend pressure washing and decreasing all the surfaces you will be working in trust me you and your wiring don't want to get all greasy while you do this work on volkswagen conversions we run the wiring loom down the center tunnel on the floor plan you start at the back and some cables branch out to the contactor box while the others run all the way to the front of the vehicle next you prepare to install and wire all the front components start by removing the carpet first the prius pedal install it and wire it [Music] then comes the brake transducer you will have to remove one of the brake lines install an additional short line and a t and then you can install the transducer on the extra port of the t-adapter make sure and remove all air from the transducer sensor you will also need to bleed your entire brake systems due to having removed one of the brake lines then you connect the transducer next you install and wire the curtis gauge and the system menu button these will be installed in the glovebox compartment time to install the backfire wall panel you want this side to the front [Music] now it's time to install the high voltage high power wiring once again we will go down the center tunnel on the pan floor this time using pvc conduits to protect and isolate the two odd orange cables [Music] you will have to drill a few holes to transition the cables in and out of the tunnel here's a basic battery system layout half the battery will be in the front of the vehicle while the other half will be in the luggage compartment at the back you have to run one cable from the controller to the front battery box then from the front box to the rear box then one cable from the rear box to the contactor box and finally from the contactor box to the controller so we're here to pick up the transmission for the gear [Music] don't forget your cap your starter hole here on the back of the transmission using the provided plate 17 millimeter nut make sure it lines up here [Music] [Applause] [Music] now for the fun part we start working on the electric motor the first thing on the list installing the interference coupler this piece is purposely made smaller than the motor shaft it's done this way so the final result will have zero play so to install it you have to heat it up to 300 to 400 degrees you can do this by using a heat gun pointed at the coupler for 5 to 10 minutes [Music] right now that you've installed your coupler it's time to install the adapter plate make sure that the top is to the left of this block right here so that your motors connections end up on top a little bit of loctite nice fancy lightweight flywheel there you go [Music] clutch and pressure plate installed just like they would on the original engine nice and just like that we are ready to install the motor now the controller plate prepare the side plates for mounting the cooling system to them time for the charger that will go on the rear passenger corner the wiring to the charging port will run on the interior passenger side underneath the carpet silicone the liquid chill plate to the curtis controller and finally mount the controller [Music] that was easy mount the right motor plate and the cooling system then the left blade with the dc to dc [Music] it's time to do the contactor box all of these cables need to be connected in there right here is your friend this shows you exactly what's connected in there [Music] the trick on the contactor box is figuring out how to physically mount the components to odd cable doesn't bend easily so the straightest shot you can give it the better the electrical part is easy after that just follow the diagram time to cover up this contactor box and now we should be ready to install both the front and the rear battery clusters first the rear the six smart test on modules at the rear of the vehicle will be installed using a set of aluminum pieces that forms a structure around the battery where you can then fasten it all together the luggage area is barely big enough to hold it so it's a tight fit and getting the 55 pound modules took some muscle [Music] all right guys check it out the battery is done [Music] boom next the front battery cluster requires a quarter inch aluminum plate where we can then fasten the individual battery modules but first we have to paint the plate so that's how it gives it a little texture these little variances should clean up once it dries a little bit and we have to install a seal on it [Music] then install it connecting the battery modules is pretty straightforward both clusters of six modules are connected in parallel to each other then the front and the back clusters are connected in series to create a 30s 111 nominal battery pack [Music] currently what i am doing is the last the very very last step which is to bottom actually top balance the cells and the reason why is not on bottom bounds this one is because they are tesla smart modules and so they are pretty balanced to begin with but we've grouped them into two the rear pack six modules and the front pack which is another six modules and uh they're balanced within each other but the two groups have to be balanced to each other and they were like three tenths of a volt off at the very top and so that's what we're trying to do right now we're trying to bleed this one a little bit so it could perfectly match the top and then we can charge it all the way to the top and see where they rest [Music] all right so you got your whole ev system installed and you're getting ready to turn it on for the first time uh you can program the motor controller and take the safety precautions put it in neutral chalk the wheels do all that when you turn it on for the first time but before you even get to that we can program the battery monitor uh when you first plug it in the car doesn't need to be turned on it when you throw your main switch it's going to tell you right away your voltage uh and it's probably going to come in around 20 volts if you're using a 120 volt system on a 5 1 prescaler so the first thing we need to do is we need to go into the programming mode for the battery monitor and let it know that we're using a five to one prescaler and also the shunt information in this case we're using a 600 amp shunt with a 50 millivolt value so the first thing we're going to do we're going to enter programming mode by pressing and holding the menu button for three seconds uh press right twice to select function and now we have our function numbers we have 1.0 up to like 6.5 or different functions so right off the bat we're going to go set our prescaler and uh it's a bit of a oversight on the part of the battery monitor that you that it's so high up in the numbers it's 6.1 is our shunt amp rating and you have to do this first uh so you can't really start at one in this case we just set it a little while ago to 600 the default is 500 and it goes in 50 amp increments so we'll leave it at 600 our shunt is a 50 millivolt shunt it's uh the 6.2 function there uh 6.3 is our backlight mode uh we like auto for this and i believe if you go all the way left we get maybe it's all the way right we get auto and what that does is if it ever draws more than an amp or so the light will turn on and it's kind of a useful indicator when you plug your car in at night to see it charging you plug your charging cord in a couple seconds later the light will come on on the dash indicating that it's seeing uh incoming current so 6.3 then we go to 6.4 for alarm contact polarity now we use the alarm uh if you use our schematic we use it to shut down the charger if you exceed a high voltage so in this case normal operation would be normally closed now the defaults normally open but we do switch it to normally closed so that that will allow your avc2 to turn on and allow the j1772 to charge properly uh so after 6.4 uh we go to 6.5 and that is our prescaler and you have options of one to ten one to five and one to one we're gonna set that to one to five and that's pretty much it there's some temperature stuff auxiliary input mode really just a lot of optional stuff that we don't use so at this point uh when you exit programming by pressing and holding menu you should now see an accurate amp rating and an accurate voltage so in this case we're at 124.8 and that's what we confirmed earlier so we know we're good there now we're going to enter programming mode again and start at 1.0 so you press and hold it for three seconds hit right twice select function 1.0 is our charger float voltage now what this is is it's basically the voltage at which your charger is going to go into cutback and the purpose to tell the bms this is so the bms knows when we've reached maximum voltage and the batteries are fully charged uh and you want to be just about a half volt below our float so we just came off at 125 volts as our float in this setup we're using the tesla batteries so we're going to go one half volt down for 124 five and what happens is you set two conditions the voltage and the current from the charger and when those two conditions are met the battery is full in this case if we hit 125 volts and we hit uh we'll set it for like eight amps uh then the charger tapers back to eight amps at that point your battery is essentially a hundred percent full and what that does is every time you charge the car the battery monitor synchronizes to your battery pack so even if it drifts a little bit during each charge it will go all the way to the top it will give you an indicator that says it's full and then you can synchronize from there it does it automatically so that's great so uh let's see 124.5 our next setting is our charger float current and i don't have a calculator on me right now but this is a percentage of our capacity so we need to know what our capacity is up front in this case we have um 12 tesla batteries and they're arranged into a 6p configuration at 50 amp hours uh each battery that gives us 300 amp hours uh if we wanted to set our current to about seven eight amps that's going to be about 2.3 percent of uh 300 amp hours so we'll set that for 2.3 use a calculator uh just basically we use eight amps because the charger typically shuts off at five amps as it goes down down down it hits five amps and shuts off so we want something a couple amps above that so it'll actually be in the state of below a amps for a small period of time that will allow it to synchronize so moving on from there uh the amount of time that this condition is met is feature 1.2 and i usually do this real short we'll just set it for 60 seconds so if the car sits for one minute at 125 volts and eight amps that's considered full and that's our synchronization parameters right there from here we're going to go to the discharge floor and the discharge floor it's set for lead acid at fifty percent in um lithium we always do ten ten percent is pretty much empty um and then we're going to go to our battery temperature uh we don't really uh use this feature at all we go to our time averaging filter we don't use this feature at all it's going to tell you how long the battery lasts at your current um driving style it's just very inaccurate we don't use it uh and then the auto sync sensitivity if you have a problem synchronizing at the top you can adjust that from 0 to 10 to make it more sensitive we leave that at the default setting so going on now to our low battery settings we have the 2.0 low battery alarm say to charge we set that for 10 percent in other words we don't want this thing to give us any warnings or anything at all above uh 10 it's just not worth it and we trust that everybody knows how to read a percentage gauge especially with all the iphones and everything now and our low battery alarm on now there's two different types of low batteries that often get confused there's a state of charge which would be counting the amp hours counting the capacity and saying we're low on capacity and the other one is we're low on voltage and those are two distinctly different things and you got to kind of keep them separate in your mind so in this case uh we are talking about the state of charge so we're saying we're going to ignore the voltage but anything below 10 we're going to give the user a warning now 2.1 is going to give us our battery alarm in volts in this case we really don't want to go below 50 per module so we'll set it for 99 volts that's a pretty good indicator there if you're below 99 you definitely need to find a charging station pretty quick with this battery setup uh and then the low battery off when you start charging it at what point does the alarm turn off uh we can do that almost immediately so we'll put it five percent above uh which would be fifteen percent uh next we have our minimum alarm on time we just set that at the default i think the default here is it just uh there's no minimum you actually cancel it with your uh finger here and then the low battery alarm on delay the defaults 10 seconds that's good enough and what that does let's say you do a full throttle and the battery sags to 95 volts it would have to sit there for a full 10 seconds before it gave you a warning that you're depleting the battery because as you know you can get 10 20 of your overall voltage to sag during a hard acceleration so that kind of prevents it from triggering it uh prematurely uh maximum alarm on time we leave that as default and in 2.6 enable low battery alarm now when it says enable the alarm this is the internal relay that we use to prevent an over voltage so in the case of a low battery we're going to turn this off so feature 2.6 this is really important actually because if you deplete your battery it will actually prevent the car from charging it uh and so you got to make sure that 2.6 is set to off uh 3.0 your main uh battery low voltage alarm on so this is going to be again where we consider our low voltage from our main battery what's our um you know two low number and we'll set this at 99 again anything below 100 is uh probably time to get a charging station so we'll set that for 99 and then we'll move on to uh 3.1 which is the main battery uh voltage alarm delay uh and that is set for 10 seconds default we'll leave it there the low voltage alarm uh is enabled off by default we'll leave that off on 3.2 on 3.3 is auxiliary battery we do not use an auxiliary battery in this so 3.3 through 3.5 we're just going to skip we jump ahead to 4.0 which is our high voltage alarm settings now this is what we're going to set we we know we're charging our pack to 126 and our charger uh will always shut off at 126. is just an extra level of protection if we set this to 127 or 120 we'll do like 128 because that's still a really safe voltage for these batteries if the charger ever hits 128 volts the system will automatically shut down and the display will register high voltage event and it will stay up there until you reset it so if you come to the car in the morning and you see it high you know that your charger didn't shut off your link pro shut off and you'd want to send your charger in for repair double check that it's operating properly or programmed to the correct voltage uh so after that we have 4.1 which is the high voltage alarm on delay and that is set for five seconds that's pretty fair if your charger exceeds that voltage for five seconds go ahead and turn it off uh 4.2 is enabling the alarm so the alarm won't work unless it's enabled default is off we're going to set this to the one inside the brackets and the reason the brackets are like that with the one inside is it denotes that there's an internal relay and that's the alarm there is an option for external relays and if you press right you'll see the one outside of the brackets that's not what we want we want it inside moving on from 4.2 we go to our auxiliary battery and 4.4 or 4.3 4.4 and 4.5 are all auxiliary battery related so we just got to skip those and go to 5.0 now 5.0 this is important we're going to do our capacity uh we're using the tesla batteries which come in around 58 amp hours per cell we set it for 50 and so that's about 15 percent reserve uh and we like to drain the car all the way down so that our state of charge is zero percent and we still have over 100 volts in the pack so we're safe there so it's very important to set this usually 10 to 15 below your actual capacity in this case again uh you know six times 58 our actual sets about 348 amp hours or somewhere in that range we're gonna set it for 300 amp hours and uh in our preview experience with the car this size 300 amp hours should get this car about 150 miles uh 5.1 is our nominal discharge rate we're not going to change that leave it at default 5.2 is our nominal temperature we're going to leave that at default 5.3 coefficient of temperature leave it at default 5.4 is the pukerd effect we only do lithium batteries and there is no puker uh on lithium so we just go ahead and set that to 1. so 5.4 should be set to 1. it's 1.25 by default so definitely be sure to uh adjust that one and we have 5.5 which is a self-discharge rate we don't have that we leave it off now your batteries will discharge because you're running uh some instrumentation off of them so it's totally normal to charge your car you come out the next morning maybe see it at 99.9 or 99.8 it'll lose a couple tenths of a percent uh every day that it's not charged and that's just running the instrumentation uh after that we have the charge efficiency factor uh we just set that for a hundred percent um and that is 5.6 and um and that's it we already 6.0 so at this point we just press and hold the button that exits programming mode after two seconds and we are now synchronized okay so now that we've exited programming mode what you want to do is you want to double check the functionality of your other systems especially your charger you want to watch your charger charge the batteries make sure they're balanced at the top and make sure it turns off at the proper voltage at that point your battery monitor should automatically synchronize and it should flash full that's an indicator that's synchronized if it didn't flash full when your charger turned off uh go back in and measure your battery voltage look at what the bms is reading there are times that the battery monitor has cable compensation so at your pack you might be reading 126 volts but your battery monitor might say you're only at 124. so be mindful of your actual pack voltage and kind of calculate that cable compensation in your head typically in larger cars with larger cable runs we'll see up to two volts of cable compensation in a smaller car sometimes just a volt so in other words this is registering 125 right now but we're actually i think in this car at about 125 and a half perfect voltage for it other than that that's about it just double check that it works and then most importantly once you synchronize at the top the single most important thing is to take the car drive the battery all the way down to zero percent once you go below 15 constantly be checking your voltage to make sure that you do not under bolt the car if you keep your batteries within the low and the high volt range you cannot hurt them it's almost impossible to hurt those batteries uh if they stay in that voltage range so again drain your battery as you're driving the car keep checking your voltage and make sure that you can get your state of charge all the way down to zero percent and you still have at least 100 plus volts or you're safe for depending on your pack your safe voltage make sure you're in that range at zero percent and at that point you're calibrated and synchronized and you know that you're counting your amp hours you're keeping your battery uh level safe and your voltage above the minimum and that should be it enjoy your uh ev if you have any questions give us a call or an email support evwest.com that is the motor spinning nice what if where everything works are you kidding me everything well we're not quite there yet well i'm just saying like i didn't cross any cables you know uh see if this guy drives let's see of course it's gonna dry of course this has the custom two-speed transmission that is so smooth and nice they come in on gas yeah yeah they leave on electrons jeez come on wow just want to test drive a car i don't want to run check the region and there's our rear battery pack that's just compliments of the seat that won't stay up yeah i don't know what that meant to do there should we do its first burnout let's see [Music] time to put the hood on this guy [Music] for more information about these conversion kit please visit evwest.com

Channel: jehugarcia

Views: 594,260

Keywords: lumix, e-bike, ebike, electric skateboard, boosted, board, elon musk, gigafactory, tesla model 3, model, 2170, car, mods, diy car, diy, renewable energy, renewable, li-ion, lithium, ion, battery, tesla, swap, tesla battery, powerwall, volkswagen, carros, samba, van, solar, 18650, dead battery, TESLA, motors, ev, electric

Id: SJlwcgHU2yM

Length: 33min 39sec (2019 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 28 2020