How to make a Plane Front Knob | Paul Sellers

[Music] hello uh i i've wanted to do this for some time i wanted to show you how to make the front knob for a plane or it could be a door handle or it could be a handle for a tool or something like that and 90 of these things 99 of them would be made on a lathe but i wanted to show you a method for making it by hand now i'm not going to pretend for one minute that it's as fast as using a lathe there is no question this is a lot more tedious and tedious and time demanding but we don't always choose the easy passage do we we sometimes want the challenge and this will be something of a challenge but i believe in you and i believe you can do it so we're going to be making the the knob the front knob for the plane and i've got a blank of wood that starts at square rectangular along its length and i'm going to show you how to do it but to first start out we need to have a template that follows the shape of the the knob itself so we've got to we've got to cut this shape and make it and i need to show you how to make that so that's the first thing i'm going to show you i've got my black piece of piece of plastic it's under a millimeter thick it's about a thirty second of an inch thick and um and it's perfect this is signed plastic it says you could pick up a sign itself you don't have to go out and buy a special piece of plastic you can just buy a sign for a few pence in the hardware store or something like that that will work but the nice thing about it is it's a snap to the line uh thing so once you cut a line you could it'll snap to that line no matter what the shape so i'm going to show you how to make that first the first thing we do when we make any um template is we want it to be accurate and i've got a drawing here that i made and i'm going to use that as my reference but i'm going to come in from the edge an inch and strike a line and then i'm going to go down to the bottom of my piece of plastic an inch and mark it again that's going to mark the extreme of the radius that i'm going to be putting onto this and it gives me just a reference line to look to as i progress my piece of plastic is four inches long and it's one and a half inches wide and my template is going to be about three quarters of an inch wide and i only need half of this shape because i'll just flip it over for the other part so somewhere down from the top i want to leave at myself about half an inch from the top so i'm making a mark and then down from there i'm going to come three quarters of an inch and that's roughly where i'm going to start my shaping i'm coming in from this penciled edge here three quarters of an inch and then i make a crosshair for me to put my compass on now i'm going to actually be using a pair of calipers here with a point on them because they will score the surface but just to get the visual first of all i'm going to go onto my crosshairs and i'm going to use a pencil i'm going to make an arc whoops that always happens doesn't it i should have made a little indent there like that and that represents the extreme of the ball that i'm going to be making then i'm going to come in three i want another radius three-quarters of an inch and it wants to hit the side of this but i also have a very specific dimension that i'm taking from the center line which is 7 16 from my center line and this cross hair is not my center line inside that i come 1 8 of an inch like that that's my center line so i'm going to just eyeball parallel down the edge of this piece of plastic that short distance like that and that will be the center line of the hole that i drill down the middle of my knob when i come to fit that to the plane so from that edge i want to come 7 16 from that line should i say i'm coming 7 16 and the reason for that is the neck of the knob is 7 16. again i'm going to run just a parallel line i'm just eyeballing it because that will be about as close as i could get it anyway like that so on that line is going to be the extreme of this radius now it's three-quarters of an inch so i move my compass until that kiss is there and then i move it up until it kisses the arc of the knob part so there and i just move this around until i get that center point onto both those lines and there it is so there is the radius i want and a combination of this radii and this one is going to make the sweep that i want and i need my overall length of the knob is two and a half inches so from the top of the top arc i come down two and a half i'm gonna let me just check myself yep two and a half which brings me to here and that line gets squared across so you can use your square like that and then of course this base part of the knob is going to be 1 1 8 overall so i want half of that which is 9 16 which is there and that line gets squared up just like that so if i cut now to the arc oops if i cut to this one to this point and then i come on to this one and strike this arc then i cut along this line and i cut along this line that will be my overall sizing but i'm actually going to cut this all the way down here because i don't need this part when i when i come to use it for mapping out so how do i get these arcs this is what i'm going to do i'm going to bring in the steel compass here set it to the three quarters and this will score the surface like this and that actually will hopefully create my cut line i'm going to stop where it kisses the other circle i'm going to stop and i'm going to drop my compass into that when i go on to this one which i think is somewhere there i'm in that circle there and i make this next section of the arc just to there to that where that vertical line is then i take my ruler on the line on this this is the half the diameter of the foot of this template and the knob make a line and on that little short jag at the top there go into that score line and pull like that then i'm going in with my knife and i'm going to try to stay inside the groove like this now you've got to watch this plastic because your knife can slip on it this is where the two points met so i'm bringing that around into a continuous arc to that point there now that's my template and i want to snap bend bend bend and bend and there hopefully is my perfect template that's the template i need and that's going to fit the shape of the knob and i'm going to use this as a reference all the way through shaping the knob and it's perfect you can keep this one too in case you need to cut a second template you could use this one to cut that template but for now this is all we need so this corresponds to this perfectly well as near as perfect as it gets that's great that's it that's what we're making one template [Music] we are about to embark on making the front knob for a bench plane the stanley or the record and it could be another mate too there were several made by different makers through the last century but in this case i'm working on a stanley one of my planes over here and i'm going to be making the front knob for it and my piece of wood is big enough to actually make three but that's not the reason i've done it it's nine inches long it's one and five eighths of an inch square and that's the size of the diameter the 1 5x is the diameter of the knob and and i can get three out of this if i want to but that's not the reason i did it the reason i did it is because when you're making this knob you need to stand it in the vise and start shaping it and giving it the shape and you need that extra length otherwise you don't have anything to hold on to so that's the reason i've done it and i think you'll find this a very very interesting exercise and it is going to be demanding but i really think i said this in a previous part i believe in you and i believe you can do it and it's well worth doing i cannot believe how wonderful my bench planes are and i used a wood called you to make these from i'm making this one from you again you is not the easy wood to work with it's not easy at all but it does make the most beautiful plane handles that i've ever ever had makes them very distinctive and when i'm gone and somebody auctions them off on ebay hopefully they'll come for a pretty penny because they cost me something to get to this because i took the time to make them by hand so they're not generic they're not stamped out and what we do first of all is we want to find the center line so we strike a line across strike a line across so i'm using um a compass to give me the mark i need so i set this go on the point in the center where the crosshairs were move this leg to the outside and then make your line all the way around strike your circle and that gives you a guide we're going to do that to this end and we're going to do it again to the other end and and then we've got some lines to put on here that will help us to make this into an octagonal shape and when we go from the octagonal we'll go to 16 sides and we'll go to 32 sides and that way we'll minimize the the flats on the surface we keep reducing them reducing them and then we go to a scraper to get a perfect round that gives us a a long round thick dowel to start our shaping from and that will be our reference face so we want this to be as accurate as we can get it [Music] do [Music] what i'm going to do now is i'm going to put a 45 degree across where the extreme of the circle is on each corner like this what am i doing there we go and what that does it shows me the extreme that i can plane down to so if i take where these octagonal lines if i take where this hits this surface i can then take a line like this and move it along like that rotate it do the same again rotate it do the same again and the same again oops splinter there upend it flip it end for end and do the same from this and just keep rotating it and that gives me a plane line that i can play into so now i've got these intersecting points i take this corner down this corner down this corner down and this corner down and i end up with a perfect octagon as near as i need it they're not equal sides obviously but this is all i need so i'm going to plane that down so just lock it off in the vise just go down in the vise about quarter of an inch if you've got a scrub plane it'll work great if you don't just use your regular plane so i can hug a lot off with this plane so when you get near to the line switch planes to a smoothing plane with a finer cut like that try and keep your plane as evenly as possible and hit that line hopefully right on the ark i have a little bit more to go to on this end i've got it right which is often what happens when you're using a plane is it doesn't necessarily cut parallel to the surface keep it straight you're going to be using this as a reference face there that's what i want flip directly over so you don't have to alter your vice setting and the same again i'm going against the grain now so now i turn around i took advantage of the grain being against me because it pulls the plane down and i flip infrared this is a scrub plane that i've adapted from a number four plane and it does remove material very quickly these are my refining strokes because i want this reference face which will be a continuous surface when i finish because it the whole of this outside will be around there that's close enough now i see now you see the benefits of doing the two opposite faces now i can alter my vise so so one more this one looks like a little bit of wild grain here so there we have it now that's close enough because from here i'll be rounding these corners taking these facets down yet again so now i have eight sides i'll take the eight corners down that will give me 16 sides and i just rotate it in the vise to bring the the peak to the top and i can use my scrub plane yet again but just for a couple of strokes there three strokes will get me close to that surface maybe more change my mind then i switch planes and take those hard corners off but i'm going to use the end grain markings as the reference for me to check my accuracy with the plane so i'm rotating onto the flat face and then back around to the opposite corner which i'll be removing next once i have that i check it to see i'm dead on this line i'm dead on this line what i do now just lock it in the vise and then i take the scraper this is the flexible one so it bends a lot and i pull it all the way and what that does it creates a bent round and it's cutting to the arc of the the scraper as i flex it and bend it to task so now it feels like a beautiful plain surface all the way across with no facets in it and that's what i want so i rotate and i can do two corners so i'm doing this one that i was near two a minute ago use the scrub if you feel you can and if you've got one of course if you haven't got one you don't have to convert the plane you can just convert another plane on and drop it into the same plane and do all the course clips first and then switch [Music] is [Music] oh so now we've got a a decent round shape which is what we wanted for the handle and you can refine it as much as you want but all i wanted was this outside reference face because it's all going to completely change and there will only be the very top of the arc that i've just created that will remain in this because everything gets rounded yet more at 90 degrees to this long axis so there it is simple method for getting this into a long thick dowel there nice nice nice simple simple this whole thing is going to be simple because i'm going to simplify it but i think you're gonna love love love it [Music] we're ready to start positioning the lines that and we would do this on the lathe if we were turning this on the lathe we'd be rotating it towards us this way on the top and then we would put marks on there at certain points so that we would know where the cove goes and where the bead goes and then where the flat goes and we would then mark it probably with a a parting tool or something a skew that would give us those pivotal points and we have to do that here so i'm going to be using the very end of this is actually the finished height so that's the difference between using the lathe and using um when you're turning between centers that is so we're going to line up the very top of the template and we're going to make marks on the piece of wood that show the exact positions and i'm going to mark the very peak and the very bottom so i know where i'm going to be doing the scallop and where i'm going to be doing the round and that's what we do so i'm going to just mark out for one but if i was doing this and i wanted to i could actually lay out for two and i could do two exact opposites and i could start shaping those at the same time if i wanted to i don't particularly feel like that's of any benefit so i would cut one shape it get that one done take it off and then do another one separately because it's too much to do two at once i think but that's just paul so i've got the position on my piece this is the very top of the dome so this effectively fits to this like that so this is those are the positions those high spots are the ones i'm going to be marking on here so i take this and register it against the top and then just slide it in so i can get there is the bottom of the foot there is the 5 16 for the foot and then in the middle of this alcove here that's showing me the position that i need to start using the rasp at some point and i'm just marking these on so you see what i'm doing but what i'm actually going to do now now i've got this position here the overall height i'm going to do something here to establish that all the way around i'm going to use a saw and i'm going to use the saw in here so i've got a square across line here this is a poor man's cutting box i'm going to put it in here and i'm going to line the mark up with this and i'm going to cut it exactly a quarter of an inch deep and and what i'm going to do how i'm going to do that is i'm going to take a sharpie and i'm going to mark the side of the saw a quarter of an inch like that because that's the depth of my cut and you watch what happens now because we're going to roll rotate that blank that's in the guide and we're going to cut down and then we're going to rotate it slightly cut again slow keep rotating it until we've gone all the way around and that will take us to a depth that we can then start removing that mid stock so watch this space it's going to be great so what i'm going to do is i'm going to rotate that mark that's this one here until it lines up with the saw cut and then i'm going to mark on my platform at the bottom and on the vertical face the exact position so that as i rotate it i keep that registration point which is this going against those two pencil lines all the way around and hopefully that will give me exactly what i want this next bit now we're going to be cross cutting on that line bottom baseline and there's a tendency for this to want to rotate with the forward thrust of the saw and it doesn't really matter because ultimately we're going to be cutting all the way through this after we're done anyway so just i'm rotating it back towards me just to try it down to the line down to my line so now it's just taking maybe three strokes to get down to the line because i'm rotating it the 16th of a turn or something like that every time we've got to do this yet again on this blank but in a different position and i'll explain why when i've done this keep your eye on the line which i wasn't doing then but i'm still dead on that line so on the length line so that by time i've gone around i should meet the opposite side and i can micro adjust if i am moving off the line which i am a little bit it won't matter it's not going to make any difference to this by the time it's done in other words it's not so critical but of course we strive for accuracy all the time i went off my line just a fraction because i was talking but i'm still only half a millimeter off that line but it's going to be fine you'll see so there's my kiss line and i'm slightly above it but i'm more than happy with what we we got then so that's how we do that and now i'm going to do the same again but i'm going to do it further up so i'm going to bring you to a point on a drawing here so that you can see what i'm doing because if you see that then you'll understand and that's what i want i want you to understand what i'm doing and see why i'm doing it okay now you'll see the benefits of having a drawing and working accurately because everything has to be cohesive everything has to be conformed so if i turn this so you can see it this is the diameter of the foot if i bring that line up until it hits the side of the body there i've already done that on this side there it there's a crosshair and if i measure from that distance to the bottom that will give me a distance for another line that i can do exactly what i just did when i rotated to get this seat cut at the bottom of the foot so that's what i'm planning on doing so actually i measure up to that point it's one and a quarter inches so i'm coming up from that baseline one and a quarter inches and i'm going to do exactly the same cut to that quarter of an inch depth all the way around here and the reason i'm doing that is because then i'm going to bring in something like this a rasp and it just happens to fit in between in this case if not i will use a smaller rasp and this one is going to is going to cut out that waste wood in between to that quarter of an inch depth now if you've got straight grained wood you don't need to use this you could use a chisel clamp it in the vise take it down to 3 16 rotate take it down 3 16 keep rotating and take the bulk of the waste out i don't trust myself with this i might try it just so you can see it but i've got a feeling i will be up against it if i do but because of the grain because there is no straight grain in you it just does not exist okay so we're going to do that now drop it in make another mark rotate it in the vise and make another mark for you to register against see what i mean about it rotating when you are making those cuts once you've got to there you just rotate it ever so slightly like that and just keep rotating it and taking those small profile cuts like that and that's going down to an equal depth all the way around near enough i mean it's obviously got flats in because you create a flat with that straight cut i just checked myself to make sure i'm up against this line as well because i think you'll agree that that's important especially here because this is on the underside of the side of the knob and if you go too deep it'll be difficult to remove and look on seemly i guess it's the word a little bit hard to hold because i could turn it round couldn't i and make the mark at the other end in fact i think i will so keep checking yourself i've forgotten i i'd done this this way before and if you push a single cut without pulling backwards you get a better cut all right the other thing i made sure that my um cuts in the saw box were perfectly square as well very very important there it is parallel line cut through two quarter of an inch deep and now i can take out that midsection in there whether i do it with the rasp with the chisel i could do it with a chisel and i might try some of it just because of efficiency and if i was i would take out the wood this way i'm going to try it and see what i think works fine i'm going with the grain though not very important not to go too deep and then come the opposite way and look for your grain direction that's really working very well and then you can pair cut from the side the only thing is you don't really have a true registration surface because those saw cuts may not be quite perfect so we'll work that and we'll see how it goes i'll keep working this as long as the grain is going in my favor i'll be happy and i will keep going that way what i'm going to do now is i'm not quite down to my line i could if i wanted to go in with a router now and just bring a router into this surface dial it in send it down until it kisses that surface and then just see how i did but i don't really feel good that that is going to automatically do it so in that case what i would do is either continue with the chisel or go with the rasp and work in between those cuts to get it down so we've got options there now let's take a look if i rotate it this way just slightly and do the same again take off the highs like that just take out a little bit of the opposition like that and then take out the mid section with bear cuts now see that the grain is changing a little bit there but i feel good about it i'm going to keep going as long as it's in my favor i'll keep going if you set your square to quarter of an inch deep you can use the outside face now to register to and you can see how deep you've gone so here i am actually down to depth and here i'm not down to depth so i'm going to go around in facets first and take this facet down to depth by chiseling carefully so i'm looking for my grain direction i'm working with the grain like that [Music] ah [Music] uh [Music] i gave you a specific size inside here this is the part that's going at the bottom of the plane handle and i gave you a specific size of 1 1 8. now that can vary according to your plane because that's the distance that goes inside the little recess in the plane right inside there and that's what i'm working mine to but yours may vary so you'll have to make adjustments to your drawing uh to that end so so now i've got to start working on that foot which is that little section of an upstand that goes in there and that's 5 16 from this shoulder line so i come up from there 5 16 up here there's my mark and i can just pencil that around and work around that because this is where the hollow starts in the stem underneath the main rounded part of the top so that's where that starts and this is just a question of following a line around and you can wrap a piece of paper around if you want to a half inch wide piece of paper and follow a line that way i'm just going to eyeball it and see where i end up in a second when i come through to this side and that's close enough for what i want so that's the foot that's going to stay that diameter and then this gets hollowed scalloped and it gets an even scallop from this side to this side so i work the scallop just with a raspberry even with sandpaper and it's only going down 1 8 of an inch so i can use a rasp and go in in in and then this is going to be a shoulder and this is going to be changed this is going to be so i'm going to take the bulk of this out as i start hollowing this you'll see how that happens it's going to be really fun to see i believe for this next section um we're going to use the rasp and it's not complicated it is quite tedious you've got work to do i found this shinto rasp work just fine i've also got my small rasp and i also have a large rasp that i can use so i may use a combination of these but just in case i also came up with a paddle that i've just glued abrasive paper to a half round it's a bit about the size of a um a broom handle so i just cut a section in two i actually made the whole thing just by planing the half round and that will also help me get in there if as i need to so whether i use it for removing the material or just for smoothing up it will depend but you have those options and you can also um hope to buy a nice rasp someday but you may not have one so they are very very nice when you get the really the good quality ones though so i'm finished with this fellow and we're ready to do a little bit of um shaping quite a lot of shaping actually but you'll enjoy it i'm sure you will because when you get this section and it turns out as nice as say one like this you feel really pretty good about it and good about yourself too okay let's do this so how do you put this you've got to put it in the vise so you're going to i can work this sideways in my vise like this which actually i found very helpful and that really works well but you could do the clamping device thing and see how that works for you because it's very variable that way the only thing is when you put the clamp in the vise and then you cinch this in there you have to clamp the shoe and the head in the vise at the same time and then you can't loosen one without loosening the vise that's just a matter of choice but i'll do some in the vice and then you can see how you feel about it i'm sure you'll feel pretty good about it to be honest okay so i'm going to clamp this and cinch it tight and then clamp the pear in the vise just like that and this is where i go for i'm going for this small rasp because it works so nicely and it's the thickness i need it so it's an eighth of an inch thick so when i rasp down and then i get this level with the sides on here like this i know i'm already down to depth and that's going to leave me with the exact size diameter in that mid section so this is what i'm doing and i work to that pencil line that i put on there as my guide when i hit the pencil line if i'm still above the surface i move it further towards the main handle like this and there i am i'm flush not quite i'm flush on either side so i'm going to leave it at that now and then i rotate rotate rotate but another thing i do now i take the fine side of this and i just sweep in like this and i can't give you an angle but i go down until i hit that depth mark as we did on this side and when that when i hit that it unites the two contours just like that and then i stop because the next part is the top has to be done so i have to now loosen lift up as near as i can to the top like this just to get out of the way and this is where you might come a little bit unglued if you can't get enough pressure on this because now we've got to come this way and work this round just like this and i go towards that center dot that i've got in the center and so now i start to form the arch or the arcing motion like that and then this is when this comes into play this is the neat thing i start to offer this to the material and and when it hits when it hits all the way along i'm good to go so now the one thing i've got to do if you remember i left this piece on but this needs to come off so i can go down into the recess because i've got this here is stopping me so i'm gonna cut that off now [Music] once you've got close to that profile it's just a question of rotating now and you can rotate a lot or a little you could rotate it 90 degrees or you could rotate it 45 degrees whichever you want to but the idea of course is to take off the bulk of the stock like here adjacent to that last one and then kind of feather it in as best you can to the adjacent place [Laughter] and then just keep rotating rotating until you've got the shape you want and you'll end up with facets but then when we've got these facets then we can go back in and we can take the rasp just like this and you can do it as you go as well if you want to i'm looking at this shoulder line because i do want it to be even as i work around so i'm using that pencil line as my guide and just feather it in start working on the shape you want for the round part like that and then after a while when you start you feel that you have these areas blended in and not before you don't want to do this too soon then we take the scraper this thin scraper and just pull it or push it depending on the direction of the grain work it in and you start working these surface fibers with this and it it looks like this is never going to come together when you see this you think this is never going to come together but by the time you've gone round you'll be amazed how it will look so don't give up i'm going to continue doing this in the vice this way because i like the angle and it works for me but some some of you may not have this kind of dexterity yeah it's going to be something you have to see if you can i don't know why you wouldn't but i also want you to see that right in this area here i'm trying to equi-distance myself from that center because we're ultimately going to be drilling a hole that receives the um the screw that goes on the top like this and that's going to fit in there but we can finish that later just leave it enough distance to make sure that it goes in and you have a rim around it that's all if you're using the coarse side on this rust which i tend to be careful how much pressure you put on because they're quite aggressive i'm on the fine side now let's go in with the template [Laughter] and i'm just going to carry on all the way around like that and there's nothing more interesting than that when i get nearer to the other side let me do a bit more refining and show you how that's done [Music] huh [Music] hey [Music] do these are old disc sanding discs and with the cloth back and they stretch better on these contours than anything they tend not to rip and they they flex to the contour when you stretch them and that is how we get that that's probably good enough for what i want for my plane handle i'm perfectly happy with that a tiny little bit of finessing very good and i do want to uh i'm just going to use the flat file on this now [Applause] just to clean up that [Music] rounded corner give it a little bit of christmas crispness continuity really little vibration there to get around that and if your vise is big enough clamp it in the vise and rotate it [Music] this next step is an important step we've got to bore the hole to receive the screw that goes on top of the rod at the fore end of the plane that's this part here so um we've got to get that dead sized and i suggest you use a vernier caliper and then find the nearest size bit to it in my case it looks like it's a dead 7 16. which would be wonderful if it was and it is i think so i'm going to bore that hole and the reason i say check it because they do vary in size surprisingly um so find out the right size and then you're good to go i've got to bore the hole and what i've got to do is first of all i don't want to put the large conical point directly in there i'm going to drill a 1 16 hole which will allow the thread to pull itself in um without um it'll just reduce the risk of the wood splitting in case it does because that's quite a large diameter on that cone i'm going to mount it in the vise this way and i'm just going to use a drill driver to pop that small hole in just to start the bit get it as centered as you can it's going to go in that hole which you already have from the compasses so [Applause] drill that hole and then you'll be ready to drive the bits [Music] so [Music] mmm [Music] so [Music] get this vertical in the vise as vertical as you can just by eyeballing and we're going to drill right through the middle so we've got to go through that narrow section and you've got to watch sometimes these bits are sharpened in such a way that they really pull themselves in quite rapidly so i'm looking this direction and it looks good and i'm looking this [Music] direction and it's nicely centered it looks great so i want to go through into that bottom do i or no i'm going to do i'm going to remove it before i go too deep and then i'm going to cut this off i'm going to cut this to length final length and then i'm going to drill through from the other end that way if it is slightly off it will self-correct in the midsection between those two points okay my friends i have to admit here that i made a mistake and to correct it would i would have to make a a whole new um piece so what i'm admitting is that i shouldn't have bored that with that 5.5 millimeter bit i should have bought it with a 9 16 bit first because i need to do a recess to there's a dimple here on the fore end of the plane that's 9 16 and i should have done that one first so i'm having to plug the end of this hole now sometimes we have to do that anyway but in this case i didn't have to do it i just made extra work for myself so that if you make a mistake like that you'll know how to fix it i did it on purpose you know that so that's going to go in that hole eventually and then i'll find the center on that and it will help me to pull the bit into cut the recess to receive that dimple keep missing this corner for some reason could be my age so once it goes in just give it a good turn in there and bruise it and so you've got a perfect size uh reference point and then turn it upside down and then run that chisel along the bruised edge which will have formed a rim and the chisel just slides along that just like that what the fount of knowledge what a fountain knowledge this man has it's amazing okay when it's got tight you can glue it in there if you want to leave it and then leave it in for a few minutes so i'm going to cut that off and then i'll find the center okay my little faux pas has caused me an anxiety so what i had to do is cut a slightly undersized well it's the same size diameter but with a gap down the middle two separate pieces of wood so i can grip this in the vise and hopefully apply enough pressure to get me where i need to be funny how these little mistakes we make end up leading to so much work but it'll be fine i'm sure so this all this does is distribute the um pressure to the full radius of the knob so i can apply some pressure on this hopefully get this thing moving along the road a bit more and that's not pulling but at least i'm centered hmm i can't quite get the angle right i don't want to damage the work that i've already done do i i'm going to drill that 1 16 hole down the middle just in case let's try again i'm going to try a drill driver this i mean uh i'm forcing a bit if i have one too small it's probably too big i think that'll work it's a little big but it works if i can get it started there we go i think i only have to go a short distance or tink a little bit more i think that's it that's him thank you drill that middle out [Applause] so quite tricky i'm still not deep enough but only by a little smidges and to be honest that's as good as it gets so a little light sanding on there next and um i'm ready to put some finish on there that's basically it that's my project concluded apart from applying some shellac [Music] i hope you enjoyed this with me i've enjoyed it i i have i i enjoyed it even that last bit i enjoyed working out how i was going to get out of it even if i [Music] had to do the extra work what do you think it's nice huh very nice feels just right the very last detail is a couple of coats of shellac and um that couldn't be simpler really i hope you have enjoyed making this with me if you started don't give up you saw a couple of obstacles a day self-created for myself and you saw how i resolved them and the end result is satisfaction see there is my beautiful you photo and i'm really happy with the way it came out i think it's very lovely this u is stunning and if you can get some all the better um it doesn't have to be you it could be just about any wood the very last thing i have to do is take some steel wool make sure there's no bits in it then buff it and then this will just denim the surface and nibbing is the particles that come up in the surface through heat that bubbles in the finish from the wood or something along that line and it can be little particles of anything that got lodged in the finish but in this case that's already down to a decent finish level now and you could simply leave it at that but i prefer just a little bit of furniture polish any soft wax will work and you don't need very much on something like this just on and off really um i've applied it with the steel wool because that brings that just seems to apply exactly the right amount and that's basically it then you can buff it with a soft cloth or a shoe shine brush or whatever and the end result is a very lovely handle and a play a plane that's just transformed into you've customized it i've customized it we've got new totes on and then when you have that and i've got um three of my planes set up that way with new handles and um and i'm really happy one of them this middle one here is my number four my favorite really and um this one i've had with new handles on for several years now this is the rehandled one and this is a re-handled one so these are the most recent ones that i've just done for this video so i hope you'll um do the same with yours and and have a cluster a little cluster of planes um i i realized that carving one of these by hand is a lot of work and the lathe is much faster but if you don't have lathe skills you don't have a lathe and things like that i think probably if i started this it would take me an hour to make if i started from beginning to end so i don't think that's prohibitive at all for me i think it's well worth it and i think we've ended up with a very nice job so enjoy and i enjoyed doing this for you and i hope you'll subscribe to my youtube channel as i always encourage you to do because the more you subscribe the more people will see this they'll validate what we're doing trying to get people back into hangton woodworking and i think it's well worth it because i've seen a remarkable shift over the last 10 years since i've been doing this online uh to where we have hundreds of thousands of people doing this now and it's going to keep growing if we keep promoting it thank you very much i've enjoyed this it's been great you

Channel: Paul Sellers

Views: 43,730

Rating: 4.9459128 out of 5

Keywords: hand tools, paul sellers, woodworking, DIY, workshop, joiner, carpenter, craftsman, crafts, furniture, joinery, Plane Knob

Id: hrTqYkaBQck

Length: 75min 33sec (4533 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 07 2020