How to Make a 4-Sided Shade Sail

this videos brought to you by sailrite visit sailrite.com for all your project supplies tools and instructions in this tutorial video we're gonna show you how to build a four-sided sail shade or shade sail the sail shades can transform in the outdoor living area into a stylish and comfortable seating area as they help to provide shade and a pleasing ambience that helps to define what may have felt like they'd rather disjoin it or unconnected patio or a deck this tutorial video will show you all the steps required to sew up your own sail shade and install it visit the sailrite website and use our fantastic fabric calculator to help you figure what you will need for your particular sail shade in both fabric and hardware if you're interested in building a three sided sail shade click the link at the top right for a tutorial video on that let's get started and show you how to make your very own sail shade the first step is planning and also the attachment points let's discuss them we highly recommend that you read over these notes before you begin a sail shade project like this pause the video to read them in more detail once you know where the sail shade will be installed you'll need to take measurements now in this next chapter we already show some of the stainless steel hardware installed including the eye bolts and the fascia brackets we'll be covering that in a future chapter so don't worry we won't skip that our posts have already been installed with a gentle slope away from the center of the sail at an angle of about 5 to 10 degrees our posts are installed so they're about at a 10 degree angle and that's away from the sail shade the idea here is that if they were straight up and down when the sail shaved is under tension and over time they'll start to can't inward at a 10 degree angle like this it means that if they start to can't inward they won't look ridiculous so we always recommend putting each one of your posts at a 10 degree angle now that we know where our sail shade will be installed in our sir planted in the ground we're ready to take measurements to begin construction of our sail shade first visit the Searight website and click on fabric calculator here at the bottom of the web page now you can see a calculator for all kinds of projects click the sail shade button then click for sighted parallel cut sails shades this drawing represents your four-sided sail shade you must measure each side of your foresight and sail shade as though you were filling in the blanks for this exact drawing on paper make a rough drawing of your sail shade we'll be using that to mark down the measurements so I'm using a laser measure here so I've positioned it at the mounting position we already have the eyes installed here and I'm pointing the laser at the fascia over there where we have another eye installed our measurement for this side side see is a hundred and thirty-five inches from this post to that post this is side B and it is two hundred and eighty eight inches for us on paper draw rough shape of the sail shade and then write all these measurements down from this one we have 12 feet three inches if you do not have a laser measure like we do you can simply use tape measures for the D measurement we're going to demonstrate using a tape measure you'll need two ladders a tape measure and two people also help to take this measure on the right button from the I this side D was 95 inches now it's exceptionally important to get the diagonal from be2c D are the corners that you want to get that's this corner to that corner so again I'm gonna use my laser measure and I'm gonna get that measurement this is measurement a the diagonal 198 inches for us we'll be entering our calculations into the sailrite fabric calculator but before we can do that we need to account for the hardware at the corners for instance this corner in a turnbuckle and a length of chain turnbuckles are used to tension the sails shade to remove wrinkles and make it flat here along the house no turnbuckle was used a four-sided sail shade must have at least two turn buckles we have a turnbuckle at each post and no turn buckles at the fascia of the house the sailrite sells a large selection of stainless steel turn buckles in various sizes to accommodate different sails shades maximum tension loads at the corners we recommend a minimum of no less than two turnbuckles per foresighted sail shade each additional turnbuckle will increase the ability to tension the shade this is typically more important with sail shades that are 20 feet or more on a side why was chain used it's used to gap any distance that may be a little too short of target or to offset a corner here at the fascia we did not want the sail shade to be right up underneath the gutter so the chain offsets it so with the measurements you just took and wrote down on paper we must consider the hardware that will be used at each corner four corners which utilize a turnbuckle subtract 12 to 15 inches while corners that do not subtract only 3 to 5 inches we'll explain that in more detail here ok here we have the sailrite fabric calculator and it does all the work for you this is a three sided sail shade and obviously this video is a four-sided sail shade so we're going to click on this one here's the illustration that we're using to take our measurements we have a being the diagonal B being this side C D and E we need to enter our calculations here but before we can enter our calculations we have to do the hardware accommodation calculations so I'm gonna set the calculator aside this is the paper that we had when we took the measurements and you can see the a measurement at 198 B 228 c 135 d 95 and 1:47 now this is from the exact mounting position to the exact mounting position so this is the fascia of the house to the post fascia of the house to the post and the diagonal from b.e corner to d.c corner here okay so those are the exact measurements they do not accommodate for any of the hardware like the turnbuckles now we've decided to only use turn to turn buckles on this rather small four-sided sail shade so we're gonna use a turnbuckle here at this corner and we're going to use a turnbuckle here here we're only gonna use hardware we're not going to tension the sail here and we're not going to tension the sail here so let's begin with the diagonal measurement the a measurement at 198 for us yours will be different 198 - 12 inches for a turnbuckle - three inches no turnbuckle at this side equals 180 three inches okay so B is 228 we have a turnbuckle here and a turnbuckle here on B so 228 minus 12 minus 12 204 see 135 turnbuckle here no turnbuckle here so C is minus 12 for the turnbuckle and three inches for no turnbuckle 120 and so on as you can see for D and E D has no turn buckles so it is minus 3 minus 3 and E has a turnbuckle here and no turnbuckle here so minus 12 minus 3 132 these are the measurements that we will enter into the sailrite fabric calculator a measurement is the diagonal 183 B is 204 let's switch from the smartphone to a computer so we can see more for the Hempfield we will use two inches as should you if you follow the techniques in this video use the illustration above as a reference for each measured side and the diagonal as they must be placed in the correct field for your sale shade to come out correctly if you have any doubts about a field click the question mark an explanation will be given to what the parameters are for that certain field for instance the diagonal here we entered a hundred eighteen inches for our fabric width to pick your fabric go to the sûreté website in hover over fabric then click awning in shade fabric now select shade sales at the left side scroll down to the width of fabric that you desire that's how I like to do it and I'll click a hundred and eighteen inches and I'll also scroll down and click a hundred and fifty inches so I have the widest material available for sale shades in an HDPE fabric now I can select the color and size that I want now we're ready to hit the calculate button the clicking that button will calculate the dimensions of your sail shade and a full materials list and it'll also give a rendering at the bottom the estimated maximum tension at corners is calculated by using the max tension of 400 pounds typically tensioning usually is considerably less and a maximum wind load of 75 miles per hour it is wise to pick stainless steel hardware that has a working load limit coming close or exceeding this amount scroll down and you will see the cut panel rendering this shows the panel or panels of fabric lofted on the floor the length of the fabric and shade sales edge B is on the left side and for us it says it's 210 point 2 inches our shade sale requires a second panel of fabric which is at the right and its side D and it is forty point one eight inches in length it is joined to the first panel of fabric down from the top edge on the right hand side at 109 point eight three inches we call that the offset this chapter shows how to reinforce a facial board for the installation of our sail shade this chapter may not apply to you but we do recommend you watch the first few minutes of it because we're gonna go over some of the hardware that may work for a solid surface this is the fascia bracket that we're going to be using in this chapter to reinforce the fascia for our eye bolt that will go through here but there are other pieces of equipment you can use on a solid surface or Hardware I should say this is a diamond pad I hear you would use a screw that's appropriate for your solid surface in an anchor if you needed it and you could attach this to your solid surface as long as the surface we're strong enough to support the sail shades attention this is an external corner bracket that would obviously the house corner would be here and then it attached here with the appropriate bolts and anchors and then your sail shade would attach directly to it now we also have an internal bracket that's very similar to this which we are out of stock right now so I can't really show that but how it works so if you have a house here this one would attach here and here and here would be your attachment point but if you had a house that had an internal corner it would attach like this and this and then it has a attachment point here so bolts have come through here now we'll go over reinforcing a fascia board on a house or building our sail shade on this small patio will be attached here hopefully to a rafter on this corner and also on that corner so we need to remove the fascia trim here and the soffit we've already pulled the few nails that hold this together out so now we're going to move this soffit back trying not to break okay just attaching an eyebolt to the fascia here it's probably not a good idea that means all the stress of the sales shade will be on this fascia and it will more than likely rip out so what's a riot carries is a fascia bracket by a poly fab and what it this is a bracket that allows for a left hand and a right hand application so you can attach it to the rafter which is up here in the soffit and it will reinforce the fascia board in the front with the strength of the rafter now if I were attaching on this side I would use this so this were basically horizontal I'm sorry vertical if I were attaching on the other side this left side I would attach it like this so this were vertical so the beauty of this bracket is it's versatile you can use it for a left hand application or a right hand application we are going to attach this one on this the right hand side so we want this to be cocked almost vertical this way and attach it to that rafter now I have the fascia bracket installed here and typically it is installed so that it is level with the rafter so that it almost comes flush with the fascia but I have an issue I have a gutter if I install the fascia bracket here the I would come through this gutter not a good thing so I'm going to tilt it down and have the I come through down here and because of that I have to bring it down so that it can come past the gutter and be installed lower so I can miss that gutter which means I'm gonna have an angle or a wedge here that we're gonna have to reinforce with something don't nothin can see my fingers are kind of in the way there's a hole there there's a hole up there all I need is two lag screws screwed into the rafter as long as I can achieve that I can come down like this and as long as I can reinforce this with a wet I should be okay we need to install hardware at two locations along the house on the fascia so we're gonna skip between one corner to the other corner whichever utilizes the best video content after we mark the locations for the hole we will pre-drill holes for the lag screws obviously these holes are slightly smaller than the threads at the light spirit music lag screws are not included you'll need to purchase those from a hardware store now we're just gonna use lag screws really there are three holes in this bracket but you only need to use two if you can use three great but because of our angle and we don't want to hit the gutter we're gonna use two i've already pre-drilled holes up here so i should be able to hand-start the fascia bracket that's available from sailrite has three holes so three lag screws or three through bolts with nuts can be used if you prefer we're only using two of those three holes mainly because of the angle to miss the gutter we've tightened them down to the socket and now our fascia bracket is installed okay what I've done is I've stuck a pencil in the whole of my fascia bracket and we had somebody look from below to see if I was in line with out here and we also took a measurement so we're hoping this is perfectly in line with our bracket we've marked that position I'm gonna use a small drill bit first this drill would not fit inside the overhang however if you use the right angle drill you'd be able to drill from the backside out through the fascia this is the eye that we have chosen to use and we want to drill a hole that's slightly bigger than it so what I do is I just hold it up to the to the threaded post and I can determine the drill bit it's just a little bit bigger the nut is what does all the holding knot threads we pre drilled a hole with a smaller drill bit now we're going to use the appropriate size drill bit so that we can insert the eye bolt through the hole and also through the fascia bracket on the underside the size of the eyebolts is completely dependent upon the size of your sail shade so on the sail right fabric calculator you'll see calculations for approximately the maximum weight that will be sustained so you want to make sure you buy hardware that'll be able to support the maximum wind load at each corner and you can check that out at the sailrite fabric calculator so instead of using wedges i'm planning to just stack a whole bunch of washers back here so i don't have to cut a wedge out of wood or any or plastic or nylon so i'm going to insert the bolt partly through and then i'm gonna start stacking washers and run our bolt through sorry if my head gets in the way alright three let me get a couple more on there well we want it to be just extra supported so it doesn't pull the fascia in and we believe these washers will help to do that there's four washers can you see that seth let's see if they get another one in there five I think I can get more one more so we got six washers under there and that's pretty good so now I can push the I bolt all the way through now the eye bolt comes with a nut and a very small washer I'm gonna put a larger washer on the end first and I am assured that this small washer actually fills the hole around and then the small washer and then the nut wow that's actually very strong now we're just gonna tighten that nut down you can see that the washers at the top are tightening up pretty well and the brackets being pulled into the fascia but we're not really pulling the face shut away from its position we want this to be fairly tight now the position of this I is not too crucial so it's fine the way it is he could be up and down this way is actually nice because we're gonna have tension here and we're also gonna have tension here so it's not too bad to have it horizontal like it is my fingers are on these washers they are tight up here the brackets solid so now we have reinforcements for the fascia from the roof rafter using the fascia brackets that are available from sailrite this will be strong enough now we'll carefully reinstall the soffit we have to pull the metal fascia trim away to get the soffit to fit in there again that just fits in that channel like that and then goes right in there we go now all we have to do is nail these back in place it'll be as good as new in this chapter we'll install Hardware in our posts so we can attach our sail shade to the posts our posts are installed so they're about at a 10 degree angle and that's away from the sail shade now because the height of the sail shade this post is not very high up in the air we want to get as much height that's possible but sometimes canting a sail shade so that it's angled higher on one end lower on the other and maybe medium on the other corner makes it look great however in this situation most of these posts are about the same level so we're just gonna go for the maximum height here because it's not very high up we need to drill a hole that's slightly larger than the threaded post of the eye bolts the nut is what we'll do the holding of the bolt in the post these are six by six posts which have an actual size of five and a half inch by five and a half inch [Music] we're through okay these eyes are stainless steel they come with a nut and a single washer we're going to remove the nut and the washer and then insert it in the hole we just made all the way through to the back side then on the back side I will insert my washer and my nut visit the sailrite website for multiple choices of eye bolts like this and also you can look up the working load limits of each eye bolt to make sure it accommodates your sails shade we will install the second in the same manner in our second post we will not show that pretty good you may or may not need to add an additional panel depending on the size of the shade sail or the width of the fabric that you've selected today we're gonna be using parasol it's a hundred and eighteen inches wide there's also a material called poly Tech's which is a hundred and fifty inches wide obviously you want to use the one that utilizes the best cloth usage for your application these are HDPE fabrics or high-density polyethylene fabrics which are phenomenal for sunshade and UV resistance let's get started after entering our measurements and hitting calculate we'll scroll down to the cut panel rendering down here and if we take a look at that we can see that we're going to have to join a piece of fabric to this very small section but we still need to do it when we look at this side we see the length here at the top if we expand that is two hundred and ten point two one so we need to measure down the length of the fabric and mark the fabric at that location now we've measured our table here and it's 72 inches from edge to edge the nice thing about this is that you don't necessarily have to have a large surface for these sail shades to do the measuring because of the sailrite fabric calculator however if you do have a good flat surface like a driveway or a yard you may want to lay out the fabric and measure on that we're gonna measure on our table nice thing about parasol and poly Tech's fabric is it comes to you've already folded as you can see so it's Center full we'll leave it Center folded and put this edge on the edge of the table now the the fold isn't perfect here but we're gonna have some extra fabric anyway so now what we'll do is we will unscrew our fabric and let the Roll fall to the ground line up this edge to the edge of the table and then we'll mark the fabric at the edge of the table with our chalk this is 72 inches then we'll move it down the table and put the mark on the edge of the table and this obviously would be 144 inches 72 times 2 so the marks here now we'll mark it here move it down the table again now our last measurement we need about 66 I'm going to say 67 inches of fabric and we that is basically all the fabric we need now if you notice here we have only this much extra which is perfect I don't really need to make a cut in this I'm gonna have extra fabric so I'll be able to nest it well but I still have to sew a panel to this okay when we see our cut panel rendering here we have an entire panel and we have this little bitty piece on here sometimes you obviously may have a big piece to add on to this thing so the calculator is telling us that we needed and this much more fabric added a complete width of that fabric added on there so that's a now about an extra yard I don't need that I can actually use that little piece from the scrap fabric right here so how deep does that go in now the calculator doesn't say that but if I look at that this is a two inch hem so if two inches here and I'm obviously less fabric than two inches going into the green which is their actual fabric without the hem so if I have a piece of fabric that is 37.6 in length and I have a piece of fabric that is at least four inches but I'm gonna go eight inches in width I will have enough fabric to sew it onto this piece so I'm gonna cut a piece of fabric a little bit bigger than that probably about 40 inches by 8 or 9 inches and then I'll sew it on as my second panel and I'll take it from there my fabric is still folded in half here which I'm gonna leave it folded in half now we've said we wanted at least about 40 inches so there's 36 37 38 39 40 so right there's 40 inches so 40 inches in and I said I only needed about 8 inches or so I'm gonna go 9 just to be safe 9 inches here and 9 inches here so I just need to strike a line from that point to that point and cut this corner out without cutting the fabric underneath okay we can cut this out with scissors no reason to use a hot knife even though a hot knife does work for this HDPE fabric notice I'm not cutting the fabric underneath this you do not want to do that there we go that's our piece we're gonna add on okay there's our top edge of our fabric so where do we want to sew this piece on well we'll measure from the top edge down to where it says right here make it a little bit bigger a hundred and twelve point to four inches which is that point right there so I'm gonna measure down 112 inches I'll just round it off because I have extra fabric and at 112 inches we will base this panel to that panel now we want to unfold our fabric which makes it doubly big and get to the other side the side that we cut the little rectangle out of so remember my table is 72 inches so the fabrics up very close to that edge and I'm going to mark it here at 72 inches now I need to add 40 more inches to that to make it 112 so 40 inches this is my hundred twelve right here might not be bad to market one one two now we're gonna use our clear acrylic ruler and we're going to strike a line that's one inch from the raw edge of the fabric this will be our seam allowance one inch seam allowance and we know that it needs to be about forty inches so that's twenty-four so this will give us about forty inches so one inch from the edge strike a line yours your width may be obvious ly be different your panel orientation will be different but hopefully you understand this all there we go now I'm going to place the double-sided tape right in the middle of that seam allowance so I can pre base the panel to itself before I take it to the sewing machine and sew so this is our panel that we need to base to this bigger panel here if we look at the weave of the fabric you'll notice if we look at the backside it looks different in color and that's mainly because of the weave now you can use this side or that side for the outside surface it doesn't really matter but you do want to base panels together so the colors are consistent from panel to panel so if I basted it like this which is opposite of the way that I cut this fabric you would see that this looks totally different than that so make sure that you keep the sides of the fabric the same so that the colors look the same so I'll peel off the transfer paper revealing the glue so again we want to make sure that the correct side is the same on this and you can see here this is the factory the edge now it isn't a big deal if you get the edge that you cut on there but what I'd rather do is have the factory edges being our seam lines so factory edge factory edge then it goes along and the one inch line that we created had one hundred and twelve inches for us and we want to base this down so that we do not pull on one fabric more than the other if you do pull on one one you will get some wrinkles and not the other so basically go down nice and flat without wrinkles now it's basted together well use their saya cameras patterning ruler and apply excess pressure on the fabric which will help to baste it more permanently it's not a permanent baste and it by any means it's temporarily baste it in place but this will help to secure it so that it hopefully will not move when we take it to the sewing machine and so if your panels were very very large you could use straight pins and actually just baste through I'll just go like this so that we don't sew through the head of the pin and come through the opposite side that way it won't move and you I would space these about every 12 inches or so on very large panels ours is small I'm not gonna use them this fabric is very slippery and we're also sewing with a PTFE thread called the sailrite lifetime thread which is totally UV proof and chemical resistant we want to keep our first stitch about a quarter inch from the raw edge of the fabric now when you're sewing it's gonna want to slip all over even though we have a walking foot that bites the fabric well so you're gonna have to take your time doing this no reason to do any reversing because of the fact that we're gonna be cutting the panel down in size so I'm gonna pay attention so that this outside of this presser foot is up against the raw edge of the fabric to keep my stitches straight as possible if your stitch does vary don't worry about it it's not going to really be visible since the sail shade is up with me I care because we're using a PTFE thread it's very slippery and you may get a few skip stitches that can and is expected if you're using a PTFE thread if you use a polyester like a b92 or a polyester 138 you will not get as many skip stitches but the life of that thread is not as long in high UV concentrated areas there's our first stitch now we want to create a second stitch now I always like sewing this so I'm sewing it up against the edge of the fabric so I'm actually gonna flip my panel around here so I can sew the opposite side and I can see that edge so I basically just flip it like that and now I can put it in the machine so if you had a lot of extra fabric you would have to roll it up here to get it through the arm of the sewing machine we do not have much so we don't have to worry about that but on big panels you'd have to scroll it there we go now if you'd like to put a third stitch in you may I'm only gonna do two we'll take this fabric now and we will loft it on the floor so that we can mark it to size that's next now we're looking at this area fabric calculator and we're looking at side B C D and E you can see the overall size including the hem allowance of two inches who is 210 57 for that side and the hollow is fourteen point two eight obviously these measurements will be different for you but this is what we're concentrating on now we're gonna use tape measures you can get by with three it's nice to have four on the fabric and measure that along this being our straight line so this is our first measurement the straight line along the website is at the left side of the fabric and we have our tape measures roughly laid out here accurately I'm gonna take my first the tape measure here I could start all the way to the edge but I don't want to deal with all this ruffle so I'm gonna start it a few inches down since we have extra fabric I'm gonna take my chalk this is gonna be my start here there and then come down here okay to ten point five seven is right about there this isn't rocket science you just want to be close so there's our first line I could use this tape measure now for the other one since we already have this measure well look at the dimensions here and you can see the diagonal with him allowance is one eighty nine point five six next we need to measure the diagonal looking at the fabric calculator the cut rendering the diagonal would be measured from the bottom left to the top right as seen here I'm gonna use an office clamp and clamp my other tape measure right on that edge so it doesn't move on me and I don't have to keep coming back over here and adjusting it so right there on that mark and I actually want the top edge like that this is a different sales shade but yet we're going to still use the same measurements you notice there's not a notch cut out here they were technically if we were working on the same sales shade there'd be a notch here but we neglected to show how to measure the diagonal so the diagonal is taken after the measurement on the left side which we already did and the diagonal is always taken from the bottom left corner to the upper right corner here so let's show you how to do that this side is already clamped down but if you have a second helper you may want to have them just hold this end on the mark that we made earlier this is the left side or side be the diagonal for us is one 89.5 so what I'm going to do is I'm going to lock my tape measure here at one eighty nine point five now what I need to do is I needed to decide where does this measurement going to fall and the best we don't know where it's going to fall so we're going to have to make an arch and the best way to do that is to use this tape and actually just make notches or an arc making sure that your tape measure is straight as you do it so there's my arch for the diagonal and I don't think I have to go any further but I might as well do it because it won't hurt at least we don't have to do it twice that should be good enough so this is edge C and for us it's one twenty four point three four so one twenty four point three four is get this one out of the way right here so where does it intersect this arch that I made one twenty four point three four is right there so there is our mark this is where we measure from so after the diagonals taken we can take a measurement of this top edge then we can measure this edge and that edge and wherever it intersects down there it's going to be perfect and this one is side D and it's ninety one point four five so I'll place that right on top of this now let's see if we have the right measurement here that is side E and that's one thirty six point six seven it's perfect it's exactly what we want so the x marks the spot this is perfect right there so I'm gonna put a mark right here an X now we're done with our tape measure since the fabric is completely marked adding holo to the sides will help support the edges and also tension the center of the sail shade in basic terms the holo is the curve on the sides of the sail shade we're using thin-walled 3/4 inch PVC here and we place it on that mark that we have here and on the mark that we have here right now we want to it fairly straight so we are going to use this side as our straight edge we want to find the halfway point of this side this is ninety one point four somewhere around there so that would be forty five point five approximately so the center position for this is about forty five point five so here's the middle of this side okay now the pipe is straight right now from X to X and I place sandbags on top of the pipe to keep it from moving and you can sight down the pipe to make sure that it looks fairly straight and it does so we want to mark where the pipe is resting right now here along the inner edge so now we have to create a hollow at that center position and we need to look at the fabric calculator again to create that hollow we're gonna create a hollow approximately seven percent the hollow four side D for this side is six point two three so approximately six and a quarter inches doesn't have to be totally accurate because we're just using approximately seven percent hollow which gives us good shape so right here we need to move the pipe in to create that hollow so hopefully those ends are anchored enough that I can create a Bend to that location along the outer edge and place two more sandbags to hold the PVC in place now if you've got super long pipes you may want to use cinder blocks now you want to confirm that the ends are still on your X but it isn't here so I'm going to bend this over making sure that it's on that X right there and I'm going to confirm that over here now site down the pipe make sure it's a good-looking hollow and it's consistent and the curve is the same on this side as it is on that side and it looks pretty good okay the calculator calculates at least we put in a two inch hem and that's where really what I'd like everyone to put in so I'm going to mark a line here this is our cut line our actual finished edge will be to about two inches inside of this edge so these measurements calculate for this two inch hem that we put in the calculator I'm just marking along the curved edge this includes the hollow whoops do this gently so that you don't move your PVC all the way to your mark now we can hold this down and Mark underneath the sandbags as well there we go the hard worse typically sells these in 10-foot links so you can buy a splicer here and just insert the PVC inside the slicer no reason to glue it now we have an extended length for our application I have my PVC along this straight edge obviously this edge is straight and I found my middle position here and from our middle position the sailrite fabric calculator says for side B which is this side I need a hollow of fourteen point two eight for me so I'm in a measure in fourteen point two eight inches approximately for our seven percent hollow from the middle position right there [Music] so now hopefully the sandbags will hold it down on the ends and if not you can use cinder blocks as I discussed earlier and we will curve the PVC pipe into that 14 inch measurement fourteen point two five inch measurement that actually looks pretty good we're going to confirm that it's on the X's on the other side and we'll put our sandbags right here nice curb will strike our line now we want to do the other two sides in exactly the same manner we're not going to show that because the process is exactly the same whoo it's hot it's gonna be a good thing when we get this sale shade done not that it matters inside of building but it will outside everything's done here okay and I did make a mistake I said 3/4 inch PVC pipe we're actually using a 1/2 inch PVC pipe both would probably work but I do want to talk a little bit about this excess fabric when the sailrite fabric calculator calculates it's calculating for straight lines and then it adds in the hollow later you add it in actually so that's why it thinks it needs all this fabric because it's a straight line here now we still had to have some fabric in here because the hollow took out that straight line and basically moved it all the way here but we only needed a little chunk like this so you may say well the calculator messed up no it didn't it's actually calculating 4 straight lines now all we need to do is take this and cut it out on the lines that we struck we're gonna take it back to the studio to do that it's now time to create that 2 inch hem along the sides so no need to use a hotknife this edge will actually be hidden under webbing after we're done we're just gonna cut on these lines that we struck on the fabric with scissors we have to marking pencils I believe they're called the scribe all marking pencils we have white and black if you have a light fabric you may want to choose the black one for this the white one's perfect for our application because we have a dark fabric this line needs to be parallel to this edge so we'll place our marking utensil the scribe ball pencil in the two inch holes here and then this metal edge will right against the edge of our parasol fabric and that way we can easily scribe a line that is two inches from the edge that is parallel with that edge so we hold this perpendicular to that edge as we scribe this line and we can just move the table or move the fabric on the table when we get to the end now don't worry about this unraveling here along this edge that will be covered with our webbing in the future step it is extremely important that these lines be placed on the side of the sail shade fabric that will be facing the Sun in other words the outside surface of the sail shade there is no right side and wrong side to this fabric but the outside is determined by what side measures what length based on the fabric calculator so you must get that right why is that well that's because we want the webbing to be on the underside of the sail shade when it's completed now that we have our white lines it could be black depending on the fabric that you have our 2 inch hem line placed on it we need to flip the panels of the line is facing the tabletop or the floor if you're working on the floor so the side that is going to face the Sun is facing the tabletop we will now apply basting tape approximately one inch or so away from the raw edge to the fabric on all four sides of our sail shade we're using the sailrite canvas patterning ruler in applying pressure to the double-sided tape so that it adheres well to the parasol or poly tax fabric if you're using that you can also use phifertex plus or sail shades and you can use Sunbrella though Sunbrella does not allow water to go through Solstice 86 is another choice for sail shades ok we'll peel off the transfer paper on this side we did not base the other sides yet we're gonna create a hem here and then we will fold the fabric back to the him the line that we've struck on the fabric and crease it upon that line this creates the two inch hem when you get so far down in the panel it creases well and it sticks pretty well but use the CEREC canvas patterning ruler to create a nice sharp crease and also to stick the double sided tape well so the nice thing is since we put the line on the other side and the double-sided tape on the opposite side we can see the line that we're folding upon here so it makes it easy to determine where the 2 inch hem is when you go get so far crease the fabric well with a heavy object like this area canvas patterning ruler again the number one thing that the webbing does around the perimeter is adds the strength so they could be tensioned under high tension and pull out any wrinkles or and keep the edges nice and straight but when it's placed on top of this 2 inch hem it conceals the raw edge that is kind of ugly because it covers it and it is placed inside this folded edge so that it is protected from the Sun this is the bottom side of the sail Shade polyester webbing does fairly well on the Sun but it's always best to hide it if possible this is the next edge that we're doing okay don't cut anything off the corners even though some corners may look wacky I'm going to leave that as they are leave them as they are so just create and him on the next side do that to all four sides now that all sides have a two inch hem it's now time to add the 2 inch polyester webbing from sailrite okay we have a 90 degree corner here but in preparation for our round ring we need to cut out some of this fabric here so that we can take the fabric and roll it around the ring to do that we're going to take this two inch hem that's here and here and first we're gonna undo it there at the corner our first cut will be along this edge so right on the crease that we created and we're only going to go to this crease they're right there then our second cut will be on this crease and we're going to go to the edge of the hem here right there now this needs to be cut as well to here which is right there so in other in other words all the way into that two inch hem which would be right there so three cuts right there so now we've got this flap and you have this flap this is longer it's just shorter but we're gonna cut some of this off in a later step so now let's just fold it like it was when it was a double hem just like that now we cut these with scissors along those edges and that's because it makes a little bit easier but if you take a hot knife now because this edge will be actually a little bit exposed and you just touch the edges of where you cut this melts the edge of the HDPE fabric so that it stays neatly together as it folds over that webbing so just touching the cut edge with a hot knife melts up beautifully like that and we'll touch this edge as well because this is gonna fold over okay so there's that one now this one it has a little bit too much extra fabric in it but even though we're gonna cut some of that away we're still going to touch the edges of this one a little bit you'll see later on why we're doing this the ends of the webbing should be touched with a hot knife otherwise they will unravel you can cut them with scissors then touch them with odd knife or you can cut them with a hot knife and not have to do it twice from the end of the webbing we're going to measure 12 inches and Mark the webbing with our chalk the 12 inch mark will go at our two inch hem so basically two inches from the corner and we will use just a clamp to hold it in place what we want to do is we want to find the length of this side so we're just going to run the webbing down this length to the next corner at this corner we will mark it 12 at the where the 2 inch hem is so right here and then we need to make sure that we have 12 inches of extra webbing which we have more than 12 inches here so we're good now we'll take this webbing and we'll flip it over and we will start to baste at the 12 inch mark on the opposite side so there's our 12 inch mark we will start basting from that in the middle of this webbing all the way down slink to the next 12 inch mark which is on the opposite side note it's facing the tabletop this seamstick holds very well to the polyester webbing fact it's almost impossible to get it off we're gonna peel off the transfer paper and revealing the glue and at the two inch in other words 2 inches from the corner we're going to based on our 12 inch mark so here we're going to place the webbing a lot along this edge so there's about an eighth inch of the fabric that is protruding from this outer edge of the webbing the raw edge is concealed because you can see here as I fold it back up the ugly raw edge of the poly Tech's or the parasol fabric parasol we're using is concealed underneath the webbing don't be alarmed if your 12 inch mark doesn't fall right where you marked it it's not a big deal as long as we have approximately 12 inches overhanging the edge we're fine so there's one leg now we'll do the same to the next leg a triangular corner like this will receive a triangular ring like this it can have either the opening or not have the opening it's your choice we carry all kinds of stainless steel hardware but before we attach the webbing onto this leg let's lift this webbing up a little bit and let's again cut this corner so we can wrap it around the end of our hardware and so to do that what I'm going to do this has some excess fabric here we're going to open this up and on this fold here we're going to cut it open so I'm gonna cut on that fold approximately we have exit extra fabric here so don't be alarmed by this and then we cut on this fold cutting this extra fabric on the inside that's why it's not cutting very well just a single layer here down about two inches into that corner so right about there and now this fold is still attached here I'm going to cut it right there okay so now this will fold back like that and cover our webbing this will be the cover piece so again we're just going to touch the edges it's probably too much fabric we'll trim it away later but might as well touch the edges now with a hot knife to keep them from unraveling so we applied double-sided tape peeled off the transfer paper art we have 12 inches of extra webbing here we're gonna lay this 12 inches on top of this 12 inches and go down this leg in the same manner and we will do that for all the edges double-sided tape is great to hold the webbing in place but it's not permanent it's only temporary and then when you get all these edges done there's just a lot of bulk so I recommend that you take a stapler and staple about every 24 inches on these edges that way you don't have to worry about everything coming apart as you continue to work your way around some of you may be asking well they didn't put any corner patches on well don't worry we're gonna do that now I placed some scrap fabric you'll typically have a lot of scrap fabric or right on this corner patch and we want to do this for all the corners and we have the same side facing up okay so now what I'm going to do is I want to first say it'll say this size I want to go in about 16 inches or so and then it'll make a rounded patch here so I'm gonna take my chalk and I'm just going to mark along the sides going at least 16 inches in then I'll move this out of the way and we'll join up those lines to find the exact corner then I'm going to take a yardstick and put it on that corner there are sixteen inches I'm gonna run into some stuff if I'm not careful here so I'm gonna hold it here and take my chalk and make an arc that's pleasing okay so that's my patch for this corner assembly I'm gonna cut it out with scissors I'm not gonna use a hot knife you'll see why in a minute this is the outside surface we're gonna flip it so the outside surface is down not that it really matters but again we want to try to match the outside surface with the outside surface of the sail shade we're gonna apply double sided tape to the bottom curved edge that we just made and then we're gonna use our sailrite canvas patterning ruler to crease it down and make sure it sticks peel off the transfer paper then create a very small half inch hem here no reason to do any measuring here now we're gonna place double-sided tape on the two long sides of our triangle patch and on the bottom edge again on top of that half inch hem that we just created now we'll peel off the transfer paper on all of this okay so here's our corner we're gonna lift up the webbing it has double sided tape on it so we can easily rebased it again we're going to place it on this corner knot so that it's up against the edges but a little bit inside the edges as you can see here and then we're gonna baste it in place so there is our patch now we can lay the webbing directly on top of that yet again and our patch edges are concealed by this webbing okay we have our corner here this is more of our 90-degree corner sort of 90 degrees and we have some scrap fabric underneath to create our patch again here so again we're gonna mark alongside the edge at least 16 inches so along that edge then we're gonna lift this up we'll hold down here and make an arc my body is getting in the way there we go we'll prepare this patch in the exact same way we did with the first 1/2 inch hem along the curved edge we just created and then basting tape on all the sides including over top of that half inch him will not show all of this with the triangular patch we've placed it on top of the 2 inch hem on the sail with this one we have to place it underneath the 2 inch hem because there's no excess fabric sticking over the edge and we need a little bit of that 2 inch hem to cover the webbing in the later step so watch what we do here so now we'll take our him it's only baste it down in place lift it up a little bit and then stuff our patch in so that it's very close to the fold over that him make sure that its resting flat as you baste it in place so there we go then we'll place our hem back over the top like so and we'll cut this out so we have a portion that we can pulled over the webbing so cut here and we will cut need to cut a little bit deeper in there and then we will cut here about like that okay now we can put our webbing back over top and to hold it in place we will place a few staples as well repeat this process for all corners let's move on sewing the hem and the webbing in place is next okay we're gonna start sewing here at the edge of the webbing and here at the edge of the webbing here we're gonna run a throw stitches down here and a row stitches down here two rows you can do three rows if you want but it's really overkill now I'm gonna use the deluxe five and a half inch magnetic guide and place it on the machine as soon as I get past this corner right now I'm gonna use this bar here I can kind of see the bar of the webbing the last bar I'm going to use that as my guide for my stitch and when I do my first stitch there's a lot of bulk here at this corner I'm going to do a little bit of reversing because we're using a PTFE thread and this fabric HDPE fabric is very slippery we can get some skip stitches I find that using a size number fourteen needle actually reduces the skip stitches to a minimum now we're past that bulk so I can put my magnetic guide here and that way I can just kind of use that as my guide and we'll just sew down the length if you've chosen to use a v-92 polyester thread we recommend a size number 20 needle this sailrite ultrafeed ls-1 sewing machine is in the industrial tabletop with a workhorse servo motor so we get unparalleled slow speed control and power looks nice on the bottom side always good to check your tension I'm gonna go ahead and move the magnetic guide I'm getting close to the corner then right here I'll do some reversing okay now we'll pull this back and we will sew the same leg so I don't have to flip the fabric around again so we're going to sew this side of it now and I try to sew right about here so put my foot down and do some reversing yet again and I'll put my magnetic guide back down and use that as my edge guide now we'll just do that for every single leg in the same manner since the process is the same for all the sides we're not going to show any amorphous okay we have all the webbing sewing on all the sides now we're just sew across the bottom of each one of our patches I'm going to start at the edge of the webbing here and put my presser foot down and do a little bit reversing then we'll just so very close to that him - so this shade sale we're using the sailrite ultrafeed ls-1 sewing machine and it's set up in the sailrite ultrafeed industrial sewing table in workhorse servomotor package there's some reversing here at the end we decided to sew two rows of stitches right next to each other just to reinforce this bottom edge of this patch now we needed to remove the staples everywhere best way to do that is just with a standard screwdriver pry them up sewing corner rings is next sarah carries a large selection of rings whether they be triangular round or a d-ring first thing we're going to do is we're gonna have a basting tape on the middle of each one of these they will be folded over like this so you want to put it on this side here and here don't peel off the transfer paper yet make sure the ends of the webbing are sealed with hot knife then we are going to run our ring stainless steel ring into the loop of webbing this way and then this loop in like this so this ring will fall right on this corner very similar to that so I'm going to peel off the transfer paper and baste it in place so that the webbing is tight to the ring and the ring is right at that corner or a little bit past so I'm gonna fold it down hard and put it right on top top then I'm gonna do the same with the other leg our length of webbing here is a little bit longer than 12 inches that's okay we didn't cut off the excess I'm holding the ring a lot of pressure on the ring here with this finger and I'm pulling the webbing very taut indeed little bit of basting tape went past the ring so I'm just going to peel it up and break it off so now here are the flaps that we created earlier so this flap will fit in and over and then this flap will fit in and over so when the this is the side that's going to be facing the Sun and because those are going to be covering the webbing they will not be exposed here along the bottom edge or the side I should say this part will be cut out so right now I've got plenty of fabric to catch and so here so I'm good there this is way too much fabric so I'm going to cut off some of the fabric here as we discussed earlier and I got double-sided tape here I'm going to break that off comes off easy on that now again since I made a brand new cut I'm gonna actually burn this edge a little bit so that it seals nicely that's a round ring now let's do a triangular ring here we go okay we have double-sided tape on top of these again they're gonna fold back like this we're going to hear on this triangular corner we're going to use a triangular ring this ring actually opens up so that we can hopefully avoid using a shackle when we attach it to the eye so we're gonna feed it through and then feed this leg through these legs are actually going to be placed right on top of the adjacent legs okay so again I'm going to peel off the transfer paper revealing the glue okay so now this ring I'm gonna hold this ring so that the ring is basically following the same edge as the corner and I'm gonna hold it taut here then I'm gonna pull this webbing now this this webbing will want to pull the ring and round here but we have two legs to consider so I'm gonna pull fairly tight here but I don't want to twist the ring again and then this leg goes down so that's the reason I keep that angle like this because in fact if I were to pull it so much that it actually straighten out then this leg would not be grabbing the bottom of triangular ring so there it's pretty down it's down nice and tight I still have a little bit of a bubble here I have a little bit of a bubble here but obviously because we're taking a different angle there but that is down now we have this flap of fabric here this is actually our paths that we could use but we also have this flap here this is the one that I want to cover over top of the webbing to protect it so as you can see it's too big I don't need it that big I'm gonna trim some of it off enough so that I can actually sew it and then I'm going to attach it with a hot knife to keep it from unraveling the links of webbing coming through this triangular ring could actually criss cross each other in other words the one-legged go on the other side and the other leg and I was it cut a little corner off with this just to make sure it doesn't show up we did not do that but that can also be done get rid of that double side tape and this will be cutting off okay we're gonna leave this flap up right now and we're gonna start in approximately the center location and get as close to this ring as possible I'm gonna lower my presser foot and I am gonna just sew a little back tack here so forward and back while we're trying to do is secure it so that we can sew across and then forward okay so now it's secured now I'm gonna lift my presser foot and I'm gonna position it back a little bit let's just cut our threads and start again there well now we'll start back here now that we have attacked in place and we're sewing forward making sure that this foot doesn't get caught on that webbing so I'm gonna use this screwdriver here to kind of hold it down it's gonna sew fairly slowly here all the way across then I'm gonna put the machine in reverse and do the same thing again now in Reverse that I'll actually feed pretty good here because I don't have a toe that's gonna get caught on any stainless steel hardware not stainless steel i'm it webbing let's go forward again probably gonna have that toe get stuck on that thing so i'm going to use a screwdriver and hold it down and then a little bit reversing here okay so that secures the ring in place now with the ring secured in place i'm going to fold this back down which that will hide the the webbing at the corner and let us do a little tack here okay so now we need to sew down the legs to do this you can do fancy stitches like a box X Stitch box X stitch box X stitch we're just gonna sew down and back down and back down and back no reason to make this fancy nobody is gonna see these stitches up high well maybe somebody will but they're not very noticeable now my reverse is not as long so I'm gonna lower that so I can get a longer reverse stitch and I'm gonna hold this down so on their wrists nothing fancy here again this stuff skips like crazy in when we're selling just sale shaped material because it's a PTFE thread and it's also slippery like we talked about a hundred times I just don't want you to think hey why am I getting skip stitches all the time well it's hard to sew this material with a PTFE thread but a PTFE thread will never Rock so there's some advantages in using it when sewing with the PTFE thread a lifetime guaranteed thread we find that having a large selection of needle sizes on hand is a good idea sometimes by changing the needle size to a smaller needle or sometimes the large needle can change the performance of how the sewing machine will sew this thread if using a polyester thread you don't have any issues and then here I'll just in reversing okay that's all we need to do to each one of the legs and also the Rings let's show you a corner ring next okay here's one of the almost 90-degree corners and it's done a little bit differently than the triangular corners first we're going to create a stitch here so since we have a position here we're just going to come across this round ring and so a few straight stitches here and then the same thing here alright now let's sew down the leg just like we did on the triangular one could do box act stitches if you liked we want to be fancy but again we're just going to sew straight down and then do reversing back up several times now we have these two flaps of the fabric that we can fold over that'll protect this from the Sun and this one will go here and we just want to stitch those down these are not for strength they're for UV protection for the webbing so we just sew very close to that ring with a few reverse stitches one and the other and we'll do that same thing with the other corners this is going to be trimmed up of the hot knife here this that you don't need all this excess fabric okay so I'm just gonna place a metal ruler under here that'll protect our webbing because we definitely don't want to cut our webbing just trim that off now for here we don't need all this fabric here and this is not any kind of strength here but we don't want to hurt the fabric that's covering the webbing so I'm going to take my hot knife on the inside of this ring and kind of just cut through the fabric right up against there to make sure that I'm not coming up against my fabric that's covering the webbing now I can flip this over and trim out the rest without hurt hurting anything else there we go that's what she looks like from this side the hot knife edge will not unravel now we're going to cut off this excess here again this is not for strength the strength is in the webbing and in the patch this will seal that edge nicely with a hot knife there we go we are finally at this stage of installing the sail shade and that's next now for our sail shade at the small side we do not have any turn buckles we're hoping that we can just use two turn buckles with this sail shade not pretty sure it'll work so what I have is a shackle stainless steel shackle available from sailrite and this shackle meets the requirements for the maximum load at each corner oops I want to go position the shackle so that I can screw it from the bottom we will actually in the end be adding a little bit of chain here now I'm not gonna simp seize down super tight I'm just gonna cinch them down my finger until I get everything situated now chain is your best friend the sail shades gonna be small and and maybe we can reach the sail shade all the way to this ring but I doubt it we designed them fairly small so they can be tensioned so we're gonna use a chain in a shackle now we have excess length of chain gear and can tie tension it by hand probably not well enough but for now all I'm gonna do is get it up temporarily so this this is probably not the link it's going to be in we'll probably have to have to use a come-along or a ratchet to tension this side but I want to get all the corners up before I do anything as far as tensioning goes the nice thing about the quick link triangle is that you can open it up so you don't necessarily have to use a shackle so now we can we have our turnbuckle attached and we have a length of chain attached again we are not tensioning it all the way yet we're just getting all the corners up so adjustments we'll probably more than likely be necessary we're gonna leave this open at this point to avoid having to use a shackle we're going to release this quick release triangle and we're gonna put our chain on that this is a matter of cutting chain to the right length until you have what you want obviously the chain will extend any one of the ends that you need to possibly change in diameter there you go we'll just put that on temporarily right now turnbuckle is extended all the way to the end at the sailrite website you'll find a selection of turnbuckles this is a rather small one so now we're going to use some of this excess chain to get the sail shade away from the house a little bit more provide a little bit more coverage this chain is your best friend release the shackle and I think I'm just gonna go a couple links here this is guesswork until we get it the way we want it that's a chain link I'm not gonna cut this yet until I satisfied okay alright so we are going to cut off the excess here we think we're happy with this one when I'm using these bolt cutters I'm cutting through both sides of the chain at once that makes this job twice as difficult cutting one side of the link at a time makes it much easier I'd like to do this on the ground we're gonna add a few chain links here to get it away from the house maybe just two so we have a ratcheting strap that is placed on our post and it's wrapped around so the two hooks are hooked to each other so that I have enough detention that's pretty good tension probably go more but we can do that with our turnbuckle now so I'm gonna hopefully get this chain into that triangle and still be able to get our webbing on okay so I got it in there I don't think I'm going to tighten this down yet I'm gonna try to get this off now we'll be able to tighten more from our turnbuckle now that we have it up this close so we're gonna take this off there we go I'm gonna disconnect the chain here just to get out of the way to the side I'll leave it on this triangle here and I'll let the turnbuckle fall so now I'll apply some tension here with our strap so notice how sloppy it is it's because it's not under much tension when we start tensioning we're not even using the turnbuckles yet but look at that it's starting to come out okay so that is definitely enough right now because look at all this adjustment we have in the turnbuckle so what I want to do is I want to try to put this link on here as tight as I can get it I was hoping I can steal one more link I think I can if I just wrapped it some more can I get two I'd love to get two I'm gonna try boy am i close yeah let's see if I can turn one of these out a little bit yes we did it so now I'll release the strap and there we go now it's up in the position that we want we still have to tension it with the turnbuckles it's still too loose okay we basically have the sail shade up in the approximate position that we like we have not done any tensioning to the two turnbuckles this sail shade required to turnbuckles and we did require some shackles here we had a round ring so that requires two shackles and a length of chain to keep it away from the house here over here we have a round ring and it too requires two shackles because it has a length of chain now on these corners since we used the quick plank triangle here we didn't have to use a shackle there to connect to the chain and because we used a turnbuckle with hooks we didn't have to have a shackle there either now the specific load weight of each one of these sail shades will be different based on the square footage under normal tension in other words when you're tightening down an edge the tension of a sail shade can be anywhere from a hundred and fifty pounds to four hundred pounds okay that's just your tensioning so at each corner you could have 150 to 400 pounds just in the tensioning of the sail shade this one's fairly small so it's probably going to be closer to 150 now when loads at 75 miles an hour that's the maximum wind load we'd like to see the sail shade experience nothing more hopefully you could have 15 pounds per square foot of excess pressure on each one of the corners you divide that by the number of corners you have for this we have for the CRA fabric calculator will tell you the maximum amount of tension you'll get at each one of the corners and you want to be sure that you buy stainless steel hardware that could sustain those loads so it's all dependent on the square footage of your sail shade and again the sûreté fabric calculator tells you the square footage of your sail shade after you put your measurements in Wow lots of information I've just been doused with a fire hose let's go onto tensioning to perfect galling we're going to apply some anti-seize to the threads this is very important stay in the steel when it comes under high tension the threads could become welded so this anti-seize will prevent that from happening notice I put on rubber gloves reason being as anti-seize gets all over the place so now we can start the tension we have the nuts turned away see it which way do I go just interesting by hand right now but I'm gonna put a screwdriver in here and start the tension with it and I want to keep an eye on the on the eyes to make sure that they are not spinning and rather the hardware is an adjustable wrench also fits on this tensioning device in the middle of the turnbuckle so you can use that as well sometimes I like to use an adjustable wrench rather than a large screwdriver see if I can get up here a little bit more before make a little bit easier for me there you go much easier so keep an eye on your cell shade see what kind of tension you have it's looking good I'm gonna go ahead and tighten this up we'll use a wrench later on here just to make sure everything's tightened up well I'm not going to tighten down these nuts yet we're gonna go start tensioning the next turnbuckle in the same manner okay we're gonna lock our triangle we have tension the way we want it set it's probably about 150 200 pounds on this one I didn't do take a measurement I'm just guessing at it we'll lock that down tight now we need to cinch up these nuts to make sure that it does not come loose I'm still wearing the gloves because I've got the anti-seize all over it and I don't want that all over my hands it is a pain to get off rather throwaway gloves and then we'll just use a wrench and lock up each one of these nuts notice here we have a couple links we need to cut we're gonna use some bolt cutters to take those off ting the sale shade is now complete and ready for use don't go away coming up next is the materials list and the tools that we used to make this sale shade the sailrite fabric calculator does give you a list of materials but we still recommend that you study this materials and tools list before you order anything from sailrite shown in yellow here is the quantity of items that we use for this four-sided sale shade at the sailrite website you will find a variety of types and sizes of stainless steel hardware if you'd like to see how to make a three sided sail shade you can click the eye icon in the top right corner for a tutorial video showing how to do that these are some of the related videos that may be of interest to you click on them if you'd like to view them for more free videos like this check out the sailrite website or subscribe to the sailrite youtube channel be sure to click the Bell to be notified of new videos when they become available i'm eric grant and from all of us here at sailrite thanks for watching

Channel: Sailrite

Views: 120,101

Rating: 4.8081803 out of 5

Keywords: shade sail, sail shade, 4 sided shade sail

Id: NhnS_4DiZ80

Length: 92min 52sec (5572 seconds)

Published: Tue Sep 03 2019