How To Lead: Leading a Body Panel with Gene Winfield - Using Body Solder Kit from Eastwood

[Music] [Applause] [Music] okay I'm gonna show you today how I would lead an area on this fender now first we have to prepare it and by that I mean it has to be really clean you look for try to make it a hundred percent clean now we've sanded it already with this electric sander with a Velcro type eighty grit on here we got the primer and the old paint off now I'm going to sand it a little more with a 36 grit to make it really really clean and rough I want to roughen it up just a little bit [Music] now you'll notice that I was going different directions I cross sand it and all of that kind of get at different directions now I'm going to take a rotary file this is a tapered rotary file and it's very rough and I want to get in these low spots where it might have rust or a little bit of the old paint still there I literally dig it out get it clean so there's absolutely no rust no black it has to be really at 100% clean if it is not then you're not going to be able to tin it and if you don't tin it completely you won't be able to let it a non tended non tin surface will not lead you cannot let it it has to be tinned a hundred percent if possible now I recommend copper you buy at the market and it's a copper made for cleaning pots and pans and we use an old pair of pliers or a pair of vise grips to hold it and we're going to use this copper and with heat and now we're going to use the eastwood tinning butter it is very good now eastwood tinning butter has a small amount of lead particles in it it has actual solder type particles in it and that will help you tin the surface much better you can tend a surface with a sack or solder you can't in it with straight muriatic acid but you have to apply some lead when you're doing it with murat mirotic acid your attic acid this has the acid in it and it has led now I take a torch with about a number two number one two or three tip and then we have the eastwood letting tip which you just push on there see this letting tip is made flexible and it's made so it'll fit different sized torch tips so you just push it on like that and you use acetylene only it pulls oxygen through these little holes right there so it pulls the oxygen out of the air right there okay acetylene only now it's a good idea of when doing this this has fumes that come off of here which you know you can't you can't breathe this stuff so what I do is I have a small turning fan right here I have this fan a very slow turning fan which is gonna blow the fumes away from me so that I don't have to breathe em you also can wear a respirator or a dust mask have to heat it up fairly hot and testing it's not not hot enough you can see how the fan is blowing it right away [Music] [Music] now it's very important to always Tim a little further than you think you're going to need if you think you're gonna let a surface that's only four five inch diameter you want to ten way out further than that the reason for that is that quite often the heat is going to warp your metal and you may have to want to you may want to put lead further than what you originally intended and so later if you have to put lead further out and you have not tinned that area then you have to go back and reheat the whole area and it's a whole messy process now I'm going to I'm gonna wash this with water clear water and a clean rag and you take some baking soda you know I have about a half a bucket of water here and I'm gonna put in a fairly strong them out of baking soda and this helps neutralize the acid you must get rid of in the acid and you want to do this while it is still hot or warm you don't want to it's just way easier if you let it cool down to cold then it's very very hard to to get the acid out of there so you do it while it's still fairly warm it's a very messy process now I've got it very clean there's a little bit of the rag is sticking in there just a tiny bit and what I usually do is take a clean or a new a new wire brush perhaps a stainless steel wire brush and you can brush it lightly to get the the dirt or the rags out of there okay okay now I'm going to take a very new wire brush and just brush it lightly just to get rid of the little particles from the red rag out of there the whole secret is to make it as clean as possible it has to be very very clean everywhere you go with the lid I know but I know of a $200,000 car and they didn't clean the acid properly out of the lead two or three months after the cars painted they had to strip it and start over and real ed the whole rear fenders clean beautiful now if your lead has been laying around if your lead has been laying around now I try to put it in plastic anyway I sand it you clean it with 80 80 grit clean the dirt and the crud off of it so it must be very very clean now this is new lead and it's it's beautiful but I'm just showing you if it lays around this is how to clean it so that it is clean as possible now I'm going to I'm gonna prepare the lead paddle before I light the torch again now I take a piece of 400 sandpaper regular 400 sandpaper and see this pal has been used a little bit this is an Eastwood paddle and you lay it on a flat surface and you sand it so it is perfectly flat and perfectly clean absolutely clean and flat very smooth and if you don't have it smooth then the lid is going to stick to the paddle easier or faster see I'm kind of sanding the edges just a little tiny bit rolling it over very very clean flat see nice flat surface now we're going to heat up the towel this is all furnished in the letting kit from eastwood the tip the lead the tallow the tending compound everything is furnished I think except for the copper but any compound everything meet up the towels get plenty even on there now I take it off on this piece of denim block now I'm purposely I put a lot of extra on there and I'm cleaning it I want I want a very very fine film on there you can't hardly see it such a tiny tiny bit of film okay now the paddle is ready hold it right there now I'm gonna show you over here where it is not ten this area did not tin it and I'm gonna show you how the lid you know it looks like it's it looks like it's sticking but it is not see will not stick she ended up rolls off will not stick unless you tent it okay now I'm gonna put it on here into the tin surface and the reason for this tip is you want a a flame that heats a large area at the same time if you heat this whole area keep it nice and large when it gets shiny then it's ready to move keep warming it up keep the area hot [Music] now I take the little paddle that's already prepared you warm up a larger area as possible test it not quite ready [Music] now I'm really careful to stay inside of the tent area because it will not stick if you go outside of that area you can put this lid on anyway you want but it has to be hot the middle has to be hot and shiny see I can drip it I can drip it on there doesn't matter how you get it on there because you're gonna paddle it with the lead paddle to smooth it up now I have a new round paddle you know we usually make I make these paddles in half round round and flat now I'm going to go ahead and surface this paddle I wipe off all the excess that I can now the reason I'm using the curve battle is to show you that I can sculpture I can sculpture with this lid and you can create a pattern when I do my workshops all over the country actually all over the world I keep reading and then I have the students practice a little bit of lead every one of the treatise get to practice with lead on every one of my classes you can create a shape and sculpture it's just like putting frosting on the cake but there probably isn't very many of you guys to put frosting on the cake in any way you see how you can just sculpture play with it all you want try to keep a large area hot that's very important [Applause] and you can move the lid like this we just take the paddle and move it you can move it like that back and forth pick it up move it any way you want [Music] you know every once in a while I look at the paddle and when it just barely starts to accepting lead then I go over here and I heat up this denim tool and I wipe off the excess lead and I pick up a tiny bit of of the towel now it's refilmed and ready to go again and you can continue then using the paddle over and over all day long when you're first learning you keep in mind that you want towards paddle towards paddle otherwise you burn the paddle so I've used this paddle over and over and I haven't burnt the end of it yet but you can see how it takes a little bit of experience you're not going to just pick this up and smooth it out as smooth as I'm doing it the first time you try it so it takes a little bit of practice and that's all part of learning everyday is a school day you learn how to do something every day no matter what it is keep it hot all the way around I'm just barely tilting the paddle as I come each way just barely killing it a tiny bit now I didn't need near that much led on there I was just showing you how you can apply it how you can move it around this fender only had some little tiny dents in here and we could have straightened them but this is a demonstration I'm showing you how I apply the lead now we let that cool for a few minutes and then I wire brush it again with a brand new wire brush and then I will wash it down again and then I wash it quite often with acetone or lacquer thinner and I scrub it and keep it clean all the time and then I will file it with a vixen file and and before i prime it then I would wash it again with acetone you want to keep it clean dead clean all the time so that there's no particles of dirt in any way it's still a little bit hot but I'm gonna go ahead and start brushing it I don't wanna put it on while it's too hot but I'm just forced cooling it a little bit scrubbing it down with the baking soda and water again now you can take a vixen file and you can file it now there is a definite advantage of lead over plastic and that is that you can bump it you can actually pound it and you're not gonna break it if you pound if it were plastic you pound it you're gonna crack the plastic and then it's going to give you big trouble when you prime and paint it but I'll show you what I mean by bumping it this is the bullseye pick from Eastwood it's beautiful tool and a pic hammer okay now if you don't have the bullseye pick then you take the Peck hammer and you know I read the lights the highlights the light coming in on the surface I get it so that I can see where I'm at and then you come in and pick it you get an idea of the length of your handle in the area we want to be [Music] now I'll show you what I mean with the file see that's the area right there I just now started to hit where I picked it with the file I'm going to try to come in here see the light I can't swing the hammer because of this sawhorse okay I've got the bullseye pic and I'm gonna use it just the same as if I was using the Peck hammer except this shows you where where you're gonna hit you see see the the pic comes right in pretty close to the end of that and so it shows me where I'm gonna be so I put this where I want to be and I just squeeze the handle and so I pick and file and peck and file any low spots and then file them off and had a definite low spot right there see now it's almost all gone and you can pick and file and metal finish it's all you want okay now the reason that I say always tend further than you need now where I have to feather this lid out into the to the steel out into the metal you see if if you feather that out and you still have a low spot or a dent that you cannot check out then you may have to want to rillette it and if you re let it you have to reach in it now the file is going to scratch the metal and it's going to take away the tin job see so you always want to try to tin further than you need let it out there and then feather your edges back into the steel now you can block Sanders you can take 80 you can make 80 grit and box in it it's a good idea to use a respirator but you know or you can turn the fan on and blow the filings away but anyway send it with 80 now big question all the time can you use plastic over it yes you can now if you're going to use plastic to fill little tiny tiny low spots maybe you can't get to the back to peck them out so did you want to fill those little tiny spots so I recommend take 36 this happens be 80 but you take 36 and you scratch the little holes the little dents scratch them up to clean them up perfectly clean and rough rough them up scratch them and then you put the move thin coat of plastic right over there and right ahead and prime it now again I would wash this down with acetone or lacquer thinner just to get any any amount of that little bit of tallow that might be stuck in there as you do that process now I seen a guy using motor oil on his lead paddles one time no oil and paint doesn't mix but this guy had oil running down his arm you know it's just oil all over this whole thing and I don't know how in the world he was ever gonna get that oil out of there in order to prime it or paint it but so I definitely don't recommend any motor oil okay now I hope that this demonstration has shown you how to do it and and take away some of the fears or the questions that you might have had and so any you know if you want to get the kit visit eastwood.com or give them a call and they'll show you that beautiful kit [Music] [Music] [Applause]

Channel: Eastwood Company

Views: 706,383

Rating: 4.8581777 out of 5

Keywords: eastwood, Eastwood Company (Business Operation), gene winfield, leading, leading panels, how to lead, how to, How-to (Website Category), using body lead, body lead, restore, restoration, fabricate, fabrication, body filler, autobody, autobody repair, winfield, body solder, car filler, car putty, bondo, bondo car, filler bondo, bondo body filler, apply body filler, auto shop, auto body repair, body repair shop, body repair, video, Soldering, tinning butter, applying body filler

Id: 87fuTnBS2bE

Length: 31min 36sec (1896 seconds)

Published: Wed Jul 22 2015

Reddit Comments

[u/QuarterBore]

Hence the term "lead sled".

In automotive usage, a lead sled is a hot rod consisting of a heavily modified stock vehicle, particularly though not exclusively a 1949, 1950 or 1951 model year Ford or Mercury car. Contemporary auto body repair could be achieved through the application of molten lead to damaged body panels and the same techniques were adapted for after-market cosmetic modifications.

[u/jonp]

Dat rug, doe

[u/pemdas42]

This seems neat, but also a great way to get lead poisoning and/or contaminate an area with lead dust.