How to Install Vinyl Plank Flooring in a BATHROOM 🚽

today we're installing vinyl plank flooring this  time in the bathroom a portion of this video was sponsored by salesforce we have a small  bathroom on our first floor that needs a serious remodel and today i'm attacking the flooring  and replacing this boring beige ceramic tile with a vinyl plank flooring that looks just  like large format tile i started by taking   out the toilet and a great way to get those last  bits of water out is with a turkey baster from   the dollar store i also removed the mirror and the  vanity since i'll be building a new vanity for the   remodel but if you're keeping your vanity there's  no need to remove it for flooring install now the   vinyl plank tile is a floating floor so it needs  expansion gaps and trim installed to hide them   so i went ahead and pulled out all the trim as  well for a nice clean slate and before you start   busting up any flooring it's a good idea to plug  up the air vents with some towels so you don't get   dust and debris all in there alright i got started  on the floor and apparently i was not recording so   i have taken up this so far this is coming up  way easier than it should because this was not   properly installed let me keep going here and i'll  show you how easily it's coming up this flooring   install was on top of an osb subfloor and i was  able to use a combination of a small pry bar and   a large demo bar to get between the subfloor and  that orange underlayment to pry up the tiles now   some spots were actually held down pretty good and  they put up a fight but every floor is going to be   different and this could be really easy for you  or a huge pain in the butt and when you get near   the toilet flange go ahead and slow down and take  your time the last thing you need to do is go all   hulk smash on it and bust up your flange or worse  yet snap your water supply line the same goes for   around the tub as you don't want to damage the tub  by slamming into it with a pry bar but i worked my   way around the room and then i vacuumed up  all the debris to see what i was left with   we've got all the ceramic tile out and now we can  see the subfloor see what we're working with so   the big thing that you want to be considered with  you want to make sure that it is in good condition   and flat so i've got a level here i'm going to  check to see how we're looking it's pretty good   here but what i notice is coming right over to  the tub this is on a seam in between the subfloor   we've got a lot of rocking so i'm going to  have to deal with that it's a hump right here   i'm going to get the belt sander and put that  down to get a good base before we get started   now i decided to go with a scraper before the belt  sander to get off the mastic from the subfloor   it comes up pretty easy in some spots but others  i had to really put some elbow grease into it   now you could use a floor grinder or other power  tools to do this but a good 30 minutes of manual   labor never hurt anybody actually that's not  true i was hurting pretty bad the next day   i sucked up all the mastic and i checked for  level but i saw that the seams were still proud   this is a pretty common occurrence with wood  subfloors so don't be surprised to see it   i took the belt sander to the seams and i tried to  level them out the best i could i also went around   and found any nails that were sticking up and  hammered those beneath the surface with a nail set   and then i was ready to check the floor all right  after all the sanding the rocking is gone so the   level works here but the run into another issue  that you're definitely going to want to consider   before you start laying anything down and  that's with the toilet flange let's take a look   the toilet flange was about a half inch too high  for the vinyl planks and the plywood underlayment   i'm using if the flange isn't flush or slightly  proud then you can get a rocking toilet and leaks i'd recommend having a plumber move  the flange for you if you're weary about it   because it's not a trivial job but another  option would be to build up the floor with   a thicker underlayment but we wanted the floor  to be flush with the hardwood in the hallway   before putting it in i cleared up the side of the  bathtub and laid down a new bead of silicone caulk   to stop any water from getting under the tub i'm  using five millimeter plywood underlayment to go   on top of the subfloor now this will give a nice  smooth surface for the vinyl tiles and it'll also   raise up the floor to be level with that toilet  flange the plywood gets secured to the ground   with staples a lot of staples after securing  one corner i came across the sheet diagonally   now this helps get good contact in the center of  the sheet and then you can work your way outward   to avoid humps but the recommendation is to go  every two inches along the exterior in every   four inches on the interior and bump fire  mode on my air stapler really kept me sane   into the future person who rips this  up sorry have fun with those staples and i used an eighth inch spacer between the  plywood and tub and i removed it and filled that   gap with more silicone caulk after i was done  and now the tile will sit almost exactly flush   with that toilet flange which is just what i was  looking for let's take a look at the vinyl tile   i'm going to be using this is a luxury vinyl plank  flooring it's got a barrier on the background to   help with sound dampening and you don't need a  roll out underlayment for this one because it's   already attached so i have done a lot that look  like hardwood in the past but this is supposed   to look like large format tile like ceramic and  this got a cool slate look and when you put some   of these together on the ground and butt them  together there's actually a faux grout line so   it really does look a lot like tile so this is a  cool new product i'll have a link down below in   the description to this as well as all the tools  that i use to do this project next i jumped into   layout now you can layout your tiles in the room  and take measurements to calculate offsets and   minimize small pieces during install but i prefer  a more tech savvy approach i used a 3d modeling   program to draw the room to an exact dimension  and added in tiles in a brick pattern i saw that   five rows would fit almost perfectly in it then i  put dimensions on the first and last tile of a row   and i moved the entire floor from right to left  to get an even match at the start and end of a row   if you wanted to go a little step further  which of course i did you can add in the   pipes and vince to play around with them as well  they may think this is overkill but i love it   now installing the first row can be tricky if  your wall isn't straight i snapped a chalk line   at a right angle to the tub five inches off the  wall using a carpenter square as a reference   now using that line i could see that the wall  tapered out a half inch at the far end and i   marked other points along the way as well i cut  the first tile to length using my layout drawing   i'm using a tile cutter here for a clean edge  but you can cut the tiles many other ways like   i outlined in my six ways to cut vinyl flooring  video and then i could use the points that i   measured to make the taper or the scribe on  the plank now since the far side was a half   inch out i had to take a half inch off the first  board to allow for a full plank at that far end   i made the cut with my jigsaw and then i brought  the piece back to the bathroom to cut a hole for   the water supply now make sure to factor in  the quarter inch expansion gap when you take   these measurements i used some scraps from the  underlayment taped to the wall as spacers for this   i drilled the spot for the water supply line  using a spade bit and then i turned off my   water and i took off the shut off valves so that  i could slip the piece over the pipe and make   that hole as small as possible i bought an extra  toilet flange and it turned out to be the perfect   reference to trace for the cutout i went back  to my shop and i cut the curve out with a jigsaw   the jigsaw is definitely the most  versatile tool for vinyl flooring installs   and the piece fit in perfectly and you'll notice  i put another eighth inch spacer against the tub   since i'll be caulking that seam at the end  now this looks like a lot of work up front   but getting the first row right is super important  and it sets the stage for the rest of the install   i had to repeat the same process for the next  two planks in the first row in this portion of my   video is sponsored by salesforce you've probably  already heard of salesforce but it's not just for   big businesses if you own a small business like me  or if you're considering starting one salesforce   essentials was made to help small businesses  grow fast it makes it easier to manage customers   and leads in our increasingly digital work from  anywhere world with things like gmail integration   where you can add a lead in just a few clicks  and you can send messages to a specific list of   customers as broad or as targeted as you'd like to  share your latest news or promo or just re-engage   with them if you want to see how salesforce  essentials can help grow your small business   go ahead and follow the link down below in the  description to learn more about it and thanks   again to salesforce for sponsoring this portion  of the video now let's get back to it if your   vinyl flooring has repeating patterns it's a good  idea to lay them out in stacks of the same styles   this way you can make sure to mix it up and keep  similar tiles separated now to speed things up i   set up the tile cutter right outside the bathroom  to cut my beginning and ending tiles i cut a small   piece that would hit exactly in the center of the  tile of the first row and i put that one in place   to start the second row then i used a full sized  piece and laid out the other half of the notch   for the toilet flange i went to the shop and i cut  the curve out again with the jigsaw and then i was   ready to start locking things in place all right  we've got the first row in and you'll notice i   didn't tap anything together and that's because i  want to do this on the second row so i've got the   small piece in and now this piece that spans over  the toilet flange i need that because i couldn't   line up the straight edge across the toilet flange  so i couldn't really tell because we're missing   the corners on both of these i couldn't really  tell if it was even so now i'm going to tap these   into place and then start locking everything  together and then as i have this as a full unit   now we'll be able to really line it up and get  it in good so i'm going to tap these together   now and seal those seams and i'm going to use a  combination of a soft mallet and also a tapping   block for going up against it so these are both  great tools to have your installation and you'll   see i'll have a little cheater pull bar that we'll  use later on the ends as well i tap the seams   together with the mallet locking them together and  then i could push the second row firmly into that   first row with the tapping block now you'll notice  here that the spacers that i had taped to the wall   started falling off and flipping over the tape  i was using was not the greatest so i grabbed   a stronger roll and i taped them back in place  before putting in that last piece all right for   that last piece of the row i'm going to be able  to take the off cut that was from the beginning   of the row so i can still have just three tiles  per row in my way but for your bathroom if it's   larger just keep your off cuts and you can  finish the row with one of your off cuts   for the last piece in the row i pulled out the  pull bar or cheater bar that i mentioned before   it lets you get over to the end of the tile  and pull it tight into the rest of the row   a great way to keep the tiles from sliding  when tapping up against that first row   is to have somebody stand on the tiles to  hold them in place but for heaven's sake   don't tell your spouse that you need  something heavy to hold down the tiles   just ask them to come over and  model their flip-flops for you   but if you're flying solo then some heavy buckets  or weights can work as a good stand-in as well   i continued down the third row securing the tiles  into the previous row and tapping them tight and   then locking in the short side the last piece  in the third row hit the air vent in the room   and since i could lay the tile in place right  over the vent it was really easy to mark for   the width of the cut then i just measured how far  up to make the opening and i drew it on the tile   i used the jigsaw again for this cut and i made  the long side notches first then i made a curved   pass to get to the top of that notch and then i  finished up the cut with another sweep back to the   corner of my layout lines i brought it back and  it fit in perfect and i moved on to the fourth row   and as i got further into the room i could more  comfortably step onto the rows that i'd already   installed when i was tapping the current one in  place this helps keep things steady even more   and the more tiles that you install the  more the floor is going to resist moving   i laid out the final piece to notch around the  air vent and here you can see where the planting   really came into play i used my drawing to make  sure that the tile ended right at the air vent   and this made the cuts a lot cleaner and gives  the tiles more support so if you can factor   in air vents like this in your install  then it's going to make it a lot easier the last row needs to get cut to width  and scribed just like the first row   and you want to leave a quarter inch gap at  the wall for an expansion joint as well here   i cut that first piece the length and  then i measured for the scribing cuts   and after a little work with the  jigsaw i had a piece ready to go   now you'll have to use the cheater bar to  pull it tight into the rest of the tiles here   because you don't have any room for that tapping  block it's just like we used it on the end of   the rose for the other boards we're getting into  these pieces around the door and ending an install   at a doorway is not great you have several things  you need to work around first of all we're gonna   have a transition strip that's gonna be in the  doorway so there's me a piece for the t-molding   that i need to install and work around secondly  we've got this door trim and it shouldn't be   a big deal if it was on the other side of the  wall but because it's on this side i have to go   under it because i can't knife into it but  basically i'm going to have to do the tapering   and install the transition before i install these  pieces so i'm going to put that transition in   and then we'll measure around it and i'll  show you how this goes in under the door trim   i have a 28 inch door going into the bathroom  and the transition strip i'm using is a t-mold   that's sold in 72 inch lengths it's got two  parts to it the metal c channel that gets   fastened to the floor and then the t-molding  which is a piece of vinyl that snaps into it   i measured a length that was a half inch smaller  than the door opening and cut down the c channel   with some tin snips you can also use a hacksaw  to cut this or even a dremel tool when you're   positioning the transition you want to think about  where it's going to hit on the floor and if it's   going to show or not when the door is closed now  my hardwood stops right where the face of the door   will be sitting so i position the c channel so  that i can get that transition as close to that   hardwood as possible and not go further out into  the hallway i secured it with the included screws   and now i could take the measurements to scribe  in those last two pieces now these pieces will   have a little step cut in them where the door  opening sticks out further than the wall does   i went back into the shop with a jigsaw and i  cut the piece to fit and you can see here why i   couldn't just tilt it into place since it would  hit the door trim so instead what you can do   is loosely lock in the tongue and groove lip along  that long edge of the tile just past the door trim   and then use the tapping block to scoot the tile  under the trim and all the way down that row   until you hit the first tile you may need to lift  up on the end of the tile so that you can get it   to lock in but after a little bit of mallet work  it'll fit in like a champ and then you can hit the   rest of those joints and use that cheater bar i  took the measurements on the final piece and i cut   that one to size as well i tried the same trick on  this one but since i didn't have open space to the   left i couldn't really lock in the whole long edge  but after a bit of finagling i was able to get it   locked in for a little bit of the piece but if  you're having issues getting that done another   option is to cut away the locking tongue on that  board that you're installing then what you can do   is run a small bead of silicone on the groove of  the tiles in that previous row and then lock it in   that way and it'll hold tight i went ahead and cut  the transition to finish off this area i used my   miter saw first but it gave me some chip out there  on that vinyl sticker so i went ahead and used the   old fashioned route with a handsaw that turned  out great now the transition pops right into that   c-channel also this is not the right transition  it is a bit darker than the floor i had to special   order the one for this one because it wasn't  available at my local store it'll be here soon   and with the floor installed i could go back to  the tub and run a bead of silicone caulk into   that eighth inch gap that i had left now we found  some grout colored silicone that matched pretty   well and it looks much better than a white or  a clear wood i put those taller baseboards in   that i was talking about to finish the install and  it was looking really great this large tile vinyl   plank flooring came out looking way better than  i thought it would honestly the faux grout lines   really make it look nice the tile and the seams  are waterproof but this is a floating floor so the   edges not caulked could get some water underneath  them if the room does flood but in the 18 years of   being a homeowner that's never happened so  we feel pretty good about it knock on wood   if you want to see the rest of this small bathroom  renovation i'll have it queued up right here for   you and if you want to see some more vinyl plank  videos i've got them down there and you can check   them out i want to give a big thank you to all  the folks that have been joining the builders club   and the memberships you can see that down below  and i'll catch you guys over on the next video

Channel: Fix This Build That

Views: 977,813

Rating: 4.8841228 out of 5

Keywords: Vinyl plank flooring installation bathroom, vinyl plank flooring bathroom, bathroom, bathroom flooring, How to install vinyl plank flooring, installing vinyl plank flooring, How to install vinyl flooring, installing vinyl flooring, lifeproof vinyl plank flooring, How to install vinyl tile flooring, vinyl plank flooring, how to cut vinyl plank flooring, luxury vinyl plank flooring, flooring, home renovation, how to, diy, do it yourself, fixthisbuildthat, fix this build that, ftbt

Id: LrdWvtgOEFg

Length: 15min 51sec (951 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 15 2020