How To Install Bathroom & Bar Plumbing in a Basement

[Music] hey guys I wanted to show you today what we're up to down here we're on our brand-new basement here we're about a week and a day into this and we're going to be hanging drywall later this week today what we're doing is we're wrapping up our plumbing now this job has a walk up bar that's gonna have a sink we also have a three-quarter bathroom which is going to have a five-foot shower yeah and we're roughing in the drain lines and I know a lot of you guys wonder how to rough in a bar in the bathroom so we're just going to go over here I'll explain to you how we're laying out the drain lines and the vent lines because the stuff has to be vented I'm just gonna point the camera around and kind of go over what's happening right now and then as we get the project finished up here later today and we get everything in I'll show you what the finished product roughen looks like and that way you'll have a good idea a good concept on what your plumbing should look like again codes could be a little different but it'll give you a rough idea as to what's involved and what it should look like when you're finished so let's take a look at this right now and I'll explain to you what's happening okay so in this area here that's right directly in front of me here I've got the stairs coming down here from that stairway wall over to what will become the bathroom door I had this 8-foot section that will be an eight-foot walk-up bar the rough-in that we've that we have in here so far is I've got my rough Impex which is the white half-inch PEX line now this also comes in red and blue you can do your cold and blue and your hide and red if you want we just choose to do it all in white we buy the stuff and up in hundred foot rolls over at Home Depot and right now what we have setup here is we have our our hot line which is on the left and our cold line which is on the right and an easy way to remember that is is hot is wrong cold is right okay that's how that's how we always remember it your cold is always on the right so what we have here is an item called a drop here now I can pull the effects right off there that's a drop beer that's set up for Tech's plumbing alright it's got a half-inch thread inside there and this is where you'll thread a chrome nipple into here which will extend out and have the on it so you can turn the water on and off it's going to go up to the sink this is a drop here can buy these at Home Depot that's screwed to the blocking the wood blocking that we put between the studs and this particular setup I think from the floor up to here is 19 inches all right then the PEX tubing which is your waterline it's got a half inch diameter the pecs just goes right over top of that ripped apart of the drop here and then what we'll do is we'll put little half-inch pecs rings on here and we'll print them on here all right and that will be a watertight seal this is the pecs water system it's the most acceptable newer water system out there it's not really new anymore but last ten ten fifteen years pecs has pretty much all but replaced most copper applications so we got our hot line coming in on the left and our cold line coming in on the right in the middle here we've got our drain line all right now our drain line is running an inch and 1/2 PVC if we peek up over the wall here you can see down here that this pipe right here that's running down which is our drain line which is pitched back to our sewage ejector is inch and a half schedule 40 PVC all right we're looking right into with T here this is a 2-inch T and it's a 2-inch T to munch on these two sides to inch and a half so we're going off the right side an inch and a half which is our drain line and we're coming off the two-inch side into our two inch vent all right this is vented up here now this particular bathroom or this particular bar sink rather is vented to a Stu turbine all right this this let's air into the line but doesn't let air out that way you'll get no odor from your from your sewage lines coming out and only let's say our in all right that's called astute or vent you could buy these at Home Depot they're not acceptable everywhere for bar sinks and bathroom sinks but in our area we can use a suitor vent on a small bar set all right we it's not acceptable in the bathroom for the bathroom sink we're going to vent that differently but you can use that suitor vent on a bar sink in our area okay that's code worthy here all right so that's what we have going on in that particular area therefore the rough and plumbing again rough in plumbing is your water lines and your drain lines being installed the water lines aren't pressurized yet and of course there's no sewage running through the lines they're just roughed in okay this is the roughing stage now in most areas of the country you're gonna have to get this rough and plumbing inspected before you can insulate these walls before you can hang drywall to cover those water lines and that inch-and-a-half drain line you're gonna have to get that inspected all right so that's what we got done so far for the bar now you can follow that inch and a half drain line it's going to come down it's going to turn the corner into the bathroom which I'm going through the door into the bathroom now and it's going to run around and eventually it's going to drop into that pipe that's going down to the floor right there all right now that's stuff out right there that rough-in pipe that's coming up out of the concrete floor right through the bottom plate of our wall was roughed in by the Builder now you may or may not have plumbing that's been roughed in in under your concrete floor by your building you may have to jack the floor open and install this stuff okay I'm just showing you this particular job there's more than one way to skin a cat when it comes to plumbing your rough employment all right it just depends on if you have a sewage ejector or not if you got centrifugal feed plumbing that's going to go down into the floor and right out for your septic mound or your public sewer it's going to depend on a lot of different variables what type of drain system you're gonna have but now what Jonathan's doing right now is he's connecting the bathroom drain which is going to be inch and a half in and he's also connecting it to what's coming around the corner over there from the bar all right he's putting the puzzle together here and again did the concept of what I'm showing you is always going to be the same but the actual fittings the length of the pipes the fittings themselves the way you're directing the pipes the drain lines is really going to depend on your individual plumbing setup all right no to Plumbing projects are exactly the same but this this sink here in the bathroom will not be going to a studio Matt all right we're gonna bring it up out of that same t down there you've got another one of those two inch T's coming off the top of goodness we're gonna go two inch pipe in there for event we're gonna come up inside the wall here and we're gonna turn our vent line and we're gonna shoot it down behind the wall and eventually it's gonna end up over there with the sewage ejector which we can take a walk over there right now inside this closet here in the floor we have a pre-installed sewage ejector from the Builder that we will be tying our vent line into because there going to be a big vent line coming out of there too much vent line which we will tie into the two-inch vent line that's coming from the bathroom sink all right so we will be venting the bathroom sink into this sewage ejector closet and tying it into the vent line coming out of the pit all right but you know for this video here just know that just about anywhere in the country you're gonna have to vent your bathroom sink and your shower in most cases in two inch vent line two inch PVC vent line and get it either over to your sewage ejector vent line or directly outside or if the Builder has pre installed a vent line that you can tap into which we actually have up here if I pan up there you can see that that first pipe right there that is actually the discharge line for the sewage ejector put in by the filter and right behind it there zoom in on that there there's another one with another two-inch pipe with the cap on it that actually is the vent line that we'll be tying all of our vents into from our bathroom okay pre installed by the Builder now if the Builder hadn't put that two-inch line in there and capped it for future bathroom we would have to run it outside ourselves alright but for this video just know that you have to vent your bathroom and your bar plumbing vent lines are gonna almost always be two-inch PVC you don't vent an inch and a half you Matthew two inch and in some areas you can use the Studer vent like we're using right here on our bar if you can't use a student you're going to be doing regular two-inch vent lines that are going to eventually tie together and end up over at your sewage ejector or like I said an existing vent that the builder put in and if you have neither you'll be running it outside yourself you'll be getting that vent line outside all vent lines eventually end up outside the home so that they can vent into the fresh air outside all right now we do have a 5 foot shower going into this bathroom take a look over here in the floor everything's jacked apart here this was pre-existing plumbing but we had to move it alright we had an existing toilet flange which you can see down there we had to move that a couple inches to make it work out in here so we had to Jack the floor open to move that now nine times out of 10 for us anyway even though the Plumbing's been pre-installed under the floor we're jacking the floor up and finding that existing plumbing that the Builder put in and we're moving things around all right so we're moving the drain and the in the two-inch p-trap that will be the drain line for our shower all right we had to move that based on our shower pan and the inlet for the drain for our for our new shower pan we had to relocate that drain line opening and that two-inch a trap to fit the new shower pan over look at the shower pan so you know what I mean all right so this this particularly shower pan and we're standing in front of the the side of the pendant you'd actually walk in on all right this this is the curb side now the location of that drain line was eight and a half inches off the edge this way and off the back wall fourteen and three-quarters all right eight and a half fourteen three quarters so we had to come into the bathroom here and we had to find that coordinate all right so we came eight-and-a-half inches off our front wall to the center and off this wall over here we came over 14 and 3/4 and we had that set up perfectly so when we bring that shower pan in here it fits right over top of that two-inch pipe which is by the way incidentally it's it's trapped in two inches of trap down there onto the concrete two-inch trap and then it eyes in to a 2-inch drain line goes through the floor underneath it and eventually ends up on the other side of this wall and empties into the sewage ejector all right so the rough-in under the floor plumbing drain lines is all done set up eight and a half fourteen three quarters the toilet is set up off the back wall off the back framing to the center of the toilet we like to make our 13 inches so we're 13 inches off the framing to the center of the toilet flange all right and we did that now it wasn't originally there I think it was like right over here somewhere we had to move it back and over to make it work out for our application all right so if you have pre-existing plumbing in your floor from the Builder don't get too hung up on it most of the time you're gonna have to rent a jackhammer and move stuff around like we did here and I get into that in a lot more detail at the basement finishing University in the rough and plumbing series I show you exactly how we do this now it's like four hours of video footage part 1 and part 2 that will show you how to do all of this all this plumbing is explained in detail over at the University okay so that's the rough-in so far for some of the drain lines some of the water lines you have the water lines roughed in here for the for the bar we have the water lines just kind of hangin loose in here we got a hot and cold water line getting ready to go down here and be hooked up to our drop here again here's those drop beers inside the bathroom the hots on the left the colds on the right nineteen inches of the concrete floor up to the center of these drop beers okay you got the cold to the right of the drain about two inches higher and you got the left side here which is the hot about two inches higher than the the new center of the drain and the drain on most of our projects we try to come out about twenty inches off the floor 18 to 20 inches off the floor to the center of the drain opening okay and this will be set up for an inch and a quarter line that will come out of to receive our inch-and-a-quarter p-trap from our sink and that looks like this alright that'll get hooked on to here and our peach our p-trap extension will go right into that inch and a quarter opening there alright that's called an inch and a quarter two Senko alright that thing with the nut on the end there is called an inch and a quarter two Sanko and that'll be hooked up right there like that the vanity will be cut around this this will be sticking through the drywall and that's where our water from our D trap will go in right there into the inch and a quarter two Sanko will have what that same set up over there at the bar sink as well all right and that's all inside the the sink base we also have the framing set up for our shower valve you can see that rectangle that I've framed out there the center that rectangles like 48 inches off the floor and in the center there we're going to have the shower valve okay if the shower valves got a hot and cold Inlet off left and right it's got an outlet on the top which will go up to the showerhead and if this was a tub it would have an outlet on the bottom to go down and feed the tub spout now we'll be blocking off this one here with a with a half inch cap because we don't have a tub it's a shower and we'll be hooking this up and our pecs lines will be will be hooked to the fittings that are on both sides of this valve okay we'll be sweating in a half-inch piece of copper in the top which will run up to the showerhead should always come out of your valve with a sweat with a sweat in piece of copper for your toast about and your showerhead flowing all right you should never use a Peck seer type of fitting for your spout for the tub or for the showerhead all right you can have PEX fittings left and right for the hot cold water into your valve but what's coming out of the valve should be half-inch copper sweat it that way you get more water pressure all right so that's going to be installed right in the middle of that rectangle we've still got a little bit of framing to do we're going to mount that to a block of wood and then we'll show you how we're going to hook that up and what it looks like when it's finished and that's about as far as we've gotten so far but all right so I'll let you get back to work I know am i driving you nuts no okay okay I wanted to show you the the complete ensemble here folks for what we're using him probably nine out of ten of our basements this is called the four-piece Kohler it's made by Kohler the model is sterling it's the four piece sterling Koehler modular kit now the reason that we're using the modular kit it's because we can't get a one-piece five foot shower into this house all right even though we've got a sliding door to the backyard which most people don't even have this it doesn't matter you cannot open this door all right you cannot open this door and have enough room to get a full sized shower into this basement all right so what we get is the remodelers shower all right that's what they're called if you're going in to buy one and you're looking for a remodeler shower generally gonna be four pieces all right you got your front wall panel your back wall panel I guess you would say your your two side panels your back wall panel which is five foot wide all right this particular one it's got an arch in the top and it's got a couple soap dishes built in three on each side all right the side panels have a little bit of an arch to them as well give it a little bit of style and then you've got the five foot pan now when you order your shower you can get it a bunch of different ways you can get a right-hand drain standing at the at the front of the shower looking it the way that you would walk in if it's to the right it's a right-hand drain if it's to the left it's a left-hand drain most of them have a center drain all right we got the right-hand drain for this particular model because our rough and plumbing from the Builder was more located to the right side in the bathroom and we did have to modify it a little bit a couple inches we just decided let's just get a right hand shower we can make the modifications to the underground plumbing that's existing pretty easy and we won't have to redo it all under the floor we would have had to redo it all under the floor if we want for a center drain or a left-hand drain so look at your plumbing and get what's if you have existing plumbing ideas and and determine which model drain you want to get all right we went for the right-hand drain and that worked out well for us in this in this particular case all right so you know a lot of folks are perplexed really when it comes to what type of shower do we order now this could have been a four foot unit as well they make a four foot stirling Kohler shower unit which is very similar to this it's just the pans four foot and the back walls four foot the two end panels will be the same all right and you can get that four footer with a left or a right or Center drain as well all right this is a also in white and you can get this in bone you can get this an almond you can get this in black there's a bunch of different colors you can order this in standard would be white right and this is about a $800 setup right here alright to buy this and incidentally the shower valve which comes with the showerhead and all the hardware for the shower this is about $125 for the whole kit alright that comes with the valve and the showerhead and in the valve handle and all and all the sketch ins and everything also comes come in there for about 125 bucks all right so that's the five-foot remodeler shower from Kohler and the model is a sterling okay I want to talk a little bit about tying in your new bathroom your new bar plumbing is going to have to be tied in to the home's existing plumbing so we like to do is just find something that's as close as possible that we can tap into if you can come off 3/4 inch and bring your half inch off to your bar in your bathroom in half inch from 3/4 it's better okay if you don't have any 3/4 inch that you can tap into that's local to your to your project then just tap into existing half inch now I'm gonna show you where we're tapping in to the cold and the hot two entirely different locations based on where we could find it so let me show you that now okay for our cold water it worked out so that we didn't have to go far at all there was a half inch water line that we believe is going outside to an outside spigot that's coming right inside the closet where we're going to have our ejector the hot water there wasn't anything close by down there by the bathroom or the bar so we're all the way over here in this bedroom and if we pan up here you can see right up there we've got two three-quarter inch lines right up there ones hot ones cold so what we'll do is we'll go up there and we'll tap into a three-quarter inch line hot line with a three-quarter inch to half inch tee okay so let's take a look at those tie-ins you can see our three-quarter inch to half inch t and we cut right into that existing three-quarter inch hot line and came off the side with a half-inch and there's our crimp rings all crimped on there and if we follow that half-inch line over it went up over top of this beam and right back into this unfinished utility closet which is going to have the sewage ejector in it and one other thing that I wanted to show you here's that half-inch line coming coming in over from the tie and I just showed you what we've done is we've put what's called inline shutoffs half-inch inline shutoffs here and when we turn this on and off we can control the flow of hot water and cold water to the bathroom in the bar so if we ever have any maintenance over there with the sinks toilets shower we have the capability to kill the water to to both of those areas now right beside it there is the cold water and if we trace that up and over we can see right up there is where we tapped into that half-inch line that was pre-existing that we believe is going outside to a spigot we just cut that in the middle and used a 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch T up there stole our cold water from an existing line right up above and right down over here to the cold water inline shut off and then right back down into the cold water line which is running in both directions it's running back to the bathroom for the sink and the toilet and it's coming around and going through the wall here turning around there and it's heading on down here to the bar area to feed the bar it's cold water right down here and you can see that's right up top there we drilled some holes through the floor joist and when you ran that half-inch line right through the floor joist from this unfinished closet right here there you can see it coming up and around and going down to the bar so the tie-ins are real simple just find what's closest to you whether it's 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch get yourself some tees and they're just regular PEX tees and right there pecks tea crimp rings and cut your line hmm and instill your cold water in your hot water from existing lines close to your work and it's always nice if you can get those in line shut offs on there too so if you ever have to service like I said the bar the bathroom will have nice shut offs to kill the water up to those two areas and we always try to do our tie-ins when we can in storage or in this case a an unfinished utility closet that'll have the ejector you can't always I mean we could only get the cold water from inside this unfinished clause that we had to we had to get our hot water out here in the living space down here in the bedroom so hey just find what you can now down here where we stole the hot the hot line you know we needed an extra 25 foot of half-inch pecs line to make it all the way over there to the utility closet which is a more than halfway across the basement but that was the closest hot water line we could find to do our hot water time just find your closest line whether it's a half inch or 3/4 inch closest to your project and get up there with your pecs cutters cut into the line now if it was coppery we'd be doing the same thing we'd be cutting into the existing copper line in the home because a lot of homes don't have pecs it's pre-existing but you cut into the copper line and instead of using those crimp rings where we crimp the pecs to the pecs because that's what we had to work with you'd have to get a you know half-inch or a three quarter inch fitting that's called a sharkbite which you can just plug you can just plug those pieces of copper when you cut it out to make the tie-in you can plug that right into both sides of the sharkbite tee all right that's a sharkbite tee and I'll show you how to do that in the plumbing videos over at the basement finishing University in more detail show you all the different ways that you can tap in so the other way is going to be with the sharkbite tees which is specifically made to make tying into copper quick and easy and watertight so that's a little spiel on our tie ends for this particular job let's move on to the next thing okay also I wanted to show you one other rough-in it's really not considered plumbing but it's a rough-in it's in the bathroom and that is the bathroom ceiling fan all right every bathroom needs to be it needs to have a fan installed all right you have to have an exhaust and now this is a light fan combo it also has a light you can mount your fan housing that's the silver box anywhere you want your bathroom you try to get it essentially located as you can it does have a light in it so you don't want it like right over top of your vanity which would be right here because the vanity is going to have a vanity light above it so we try to get it out into the center of the bathroom we have a shower in this bathroom so we also installed a recessed light right in the center above the shower as well ok so there's gonna be plenty of light in here we got the shower light we've got a light in the in the fan unit and then we're going to have a vanity light as well on that wall right above the center of our sink location okay so you can also see up there we got four inch flex attached to the fan alright that's flex line that's your vent line you'll get a small piece with your fan but in this particular application here we had to go about thirty feet all right well yeah we had to go to the back of the house which is like 30 feet over there and get our vent line out the back of the house and we're going up between the floor joists alright which will put our vent line above the drywall and we took it right down and out we drill a four inch hole we want right through the Box joist hold our vent line outside and we can take a walk out back I'll show you what that looks like okay so pan right up there come and write it right out underneath the deck okay it's got the flap on it there there's the other end there that's the hood all right the hood is connected to that forage flex line that was coming across the ceiling the four inch flex line being the vent line but the bathroom fan needs to be vented outside all right so let's take a look at this plumbing here we got everything tied in now everything's roughed in a hundred percent we did concrete the floor shut or we had done those changes of the direction of the toilet flange and the tub drain and you can't see it now because we got the the pan set for the shower but it's concreted underneath there as well around that two-inch pipe that was coming up we got our five-foot shower all set in there that's the Kohler Stirling all put together and once it's put together and it looks just like a one-piece you really if you didn't know it was modular if you didn't know it was remodelers tub you just wouldn't know it looks looks like it's molded in one piece now that it's put together okay I'd also like to point out that when you ruff in for a shower or a tub in this in this particular case it was a five-foot shower the framing you know between this framed wall over here and the back side of the bathroom the space from this wall framing to this wall framing across from it is 60 inches it's exactly five foot and the reason for that is is a rough-in tub or shower is is exactly 60 inches wide and it gets fastened to the to the stud work before drywall goes in all right these units whether it be tub or shower always get mounted before drywall all right and if this would have been a four foot shower we'd have exactly 48 inches from this wall to this wall if it was a 36 inch shower we'd have exactly 36 inches between stud work all right so if you were wondering what the rough in framing is for tubs and showers the width is always exactly the size of the unit that you're buying three foot four foot five foot whatever it is that's that's the distance between the frame for your sidewalls now the depth from the back wall out to the end doesn't really matter all that much it's normally going to be somewhere between 32 inches or 34 inches from the back wall to the front edge and that would be the depth out of the corner to the front I mean there we have our plumbing 100% done down here for the drain our shut offs are not on yet we just put on some temporary nipples these are half-inch nipples that we threaded in to the drop ears and we have a temporary cap on the end here now there is water in these lines everything's pressurized so if there was any leaks we'd know about it we like to pressurize our water lines and then double check all of our crimp rings around all our crimp rings around all of our fittings that we use to put the PEX water system together we can check all these fittings for the links because they're now pressurized under full water pressure all right so everything's all put together and in its final location hot and cold water for the for the sink down here we have a cold water line coming down for our toilet that's not only the way we do it is depending upon how tall the base trim is we'll set the height of the pipe coming out of the wall for that for the toilet supply according to that that trim light now we got three and a half inch base trim going in so we came up eight and a half inches to give ourselves plenty of room off the floor to the center of our supply for our toilet and as far as left or right it's generally on the left because standard toilets had the inlet for the water on the left-hand side of the tank so you want to be on the left side of your Center okay of your of your toilet and we come over off the center and that's the center line of our toilet right there we come over about eight to nine ten inches and then come up that width in this case eight and half inches all right you just want to stay above the top of your base trim with your toilet supply alright so there's our toilet coming up in its proper place redone and that's pretty much all we have to talk about in here for rough-in now if we go back over here to the bar same thing we got our temporary three inch half inch nipples get them threaded in with teflon tape so they don't leak now this is all coming off later we're going to put a nice brand new shiny three inch chrome nipple on here and then we'll thread on a 1/2 inch to 3/8 and shut off once we get our cabinet set okay we'll put all that new hardware on this is temporary temporary plumbing endings here so that's 100% done I will point out that with the Peck system we use the things called talons talons our clamps that you can buy they have a preset in ALM and it's nice to put the talons on every couple feet or so just to neaten things up and to keep your your pecs line from flopping around so you know we have one there you put a Talon back here to hold it nice here you know just it neat ins it up and secures everything so your way I set your pecs line is a very flexible line it's not like copper so it's important to use those talents a back over here in the sewage ejector closet we only have one pipe coming in from our rough end it's our vent line alright this vent line is coming over to two-inch it's coming over from our bathroom sink it's coming into this unfinished closet where the sewage ejector will be and again we're going to be tying into that pre-installed 2-inch vent that was put in by the Builder or cut that cap off and we'll connect our new pipe up to that once we get our sewage ejector plumbing coming up out of here there'll be one big tie in back here and I'll show you what that looks like when it's done also while we're here on the back side of the shower we do have our our shower mouth put in there I told you we were going to put some more wood blocking in there we put that piece of 2x4 across there and we mounted our valves to that alright we centered our valve the valve incidentally is always centered on the drain so I'm gonna come inside here our dream if you recall was was fourteen and a half inches off the framing in this direction off the back wall and was eight and a half to the center of my drain on the front wall so what we did in here if you can look here if we come up the wall if we pan up there's our rough end up coming in it's exactly in line with our floor drain I mean if we go up higher we can see that there's our showerhead right there all right again we have a temporary nipple and Capel in there to keep the pressure in the pipes and we did use the copper remember I told you we we always come off our valve in copper up to our showerhead and if we if this would have been a tub we would have came off the bottom you can see a piece of copper over there that's just a stub out with a cap on it that hard piped copper would come down to the tub spout as well well it's really important to know because text is used everywhere now and a lot of times guys will think they can come off the valve in the PEX as well but you really shouldn't now you can go into the valve with FEX you can see we've got beck so on the left side and the right side back there you can come in and pax and crimp rings on but coming out stubbing out always use copper you get greater water pressure that way okay so that wraps up the rough and plumbing series here I hope it helps you if you're planning on doing a bar or a bathroom of your basement now I know this didn't have all the nitty gritty little tiny details to exactly what I was doing with all that drain line stuff and what are my stuff but if you're interested in doing your own plumbing I do have a video series over at the basement finishing University it's called the bfu 2.0 basic finishing university 2.0 if you're interested you can you can go over there and check that out learn more about it and it'll help you with your basement plumbing it's very detailed I do have a link in the description below if you want to go check that out again i'm eddie case if you like this video please hit that thumbs up button it helps our channel and if you haven't subscribed to the basement finishing man Tube channel yet please do I got a lot more good basement finishing videos coming your way and I'll see you in the next video [Music] you

Channel: Bathroom Remodel Videos

Views: 25,367

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Id: p-KVE60f13E

Length: 36min 10sec (2170 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 29 2020