How to install a commercial steel pre hung welded frame door with demolition

I'm gonna make a thousand dollars replacing this commercial steel door and the client will gladly pay me that because there are very few people that know how to do this and oftentimes with a commercial door building owners shop owners don't have time to try to call 10 different people who aren't going to return their calls anyway when he called me I said I could do it I knew exactly what to do and exactly what it would cost and that's why he gave me my price if you were hired to replace this would you know what to get what's this size is it important what about the width what about the height how does this thing attach to this wall I can teach you how to do all of this now when it comes to these commercial steel doors there are two types that are stocked at the Home Depot one is called a knock down frame and that means the jam the side Jam top jam and the other side Jam come in three separate pieces and that has as in application and those are best used when there's something behind this if there was wood behind this or if this had to wrap around the wall you'd want to use the knock down frame but you'd have to know the width of that knock down frame here we've got an eight inch concrete block so we're not going to wrap around that so there's no need to get the knock down frame instead we're going to go with a welded frame and a welded frame all the jam pieces are connected and when you can install a welded frame it's a lot easier so the trick is to get this thing out because as you see there are no screws anywhere no Fasteners of any kind because these typically go in when the building is built and in all likelihood there is concrete and or rebar behind here here's a frame in a brand new construction project and you can see it is attached to the structure it's got rebar inside of it and the concrete is poured directly into the frame as the structure is being built when you know this it makes it a lot easier to get it out it's not easy but it's easier when you know what you're dealing with and in order for a welded frame to fit in there you need the space and from the inside block to the inside block is just over 40 inches and the welded frame is 40 inches this also gets very messy so you want to bring a tarp to hang on the inside first thing we're going to do is take this door off and then start taking out the frame also important to know your sizes I know at the Home Depot they stock 36 inch and 32 inch commercial steel doors you can get any size you want but again with business owners time is almost always of the essence and they don't have the time to wait three days or three weeks to get a custom door this door itself is 84 inches it's a seven foot door our new door is only going to be 80 inches so that means we're going to have a gap up here and I was aware of that and I told the client look I can buy you a stock door but it's going to be three or four inches shorter but I can fill all of that with stucco to match your building now here's my welded steel frame Commercial Door 36 by 80. and if you look on the side there are no holes or no Fasteners you've got these flaps that's because these welded frames typically go in with new construction so when the building is framed this would slide into place and these would attach to something within the framing they could be screwed they could be nailed they could be tied around and then when everything's in place they typically pour concrete into these and the sides get filled up with concrete and that's most likely what we're going to run into behind here I can feel that's very solid so that's probably filled with concrete so how are you going to install this thing well these aren't going to do you any good because once the thing slides in there you don't have access to any of this stuff the hardest part of this is getting the old door out the hardest part about getting a frame like this off is getting it started once you get the first one or two pieces out it's not that bad I've got a metal diamond cutting blade on my angle grinder and see I've cut off that first piece of metal and also had to go into the concrete a little bit I tried using the the cut off wheel the carborundum blade but it just wasn't beefy enough so now with that cut off I can use the combination of Cold Chisel crowbar and Hammer and start prying that off once I get that first piece of metal off the other will come off easier as you can see that solid concrete in here and see that starts coming off and now you can see there's a little lip behind here so I'm going to work behind here with the crowbar start pulling that thing off and that should come off pretty easy we're gonna have a nice smooth surface to work with which is ideal by cutting away that one little section and then working it with my pry bar I was able to pull this whole thing off see these metal Clips those were put between the block when the mortar was applied but those two pieces of wire snap into this Frame to hold it in place when they have it all squared up and set then they pour the concrete in took me about 45 minutes to get all of that out you never know what you're going to run into here cut these off and then got to get this stuff smoothed down and might be able to do it with a chisel and Hammer but I also carry this grinding wheel for the angle grinder as you put this on here and it'll smooth this thing out like sandpaper it's very quick and easy now that I have everything relatively clean I just did a test fit of the door it's a little tight down here so I'm just going to keep working it with that do another test fitting it might be sticking somewhere else and try to get this all cleaned up but get it in now as you can see I've got this ground down got that edge off it had a lot of uh like bumps of Stucco and caulk there that might have been preventing it from going in now when you're ready to test fit it take the door off this one doesn't have pins on it so I just unscrewed them and then slide the door into place whenever you're working with a pre-hung door if you have to hammer it into the opening your opening is not big enough just because you can get a jam into the opening does not mean that the opening is big enough because if you were to hammer this thing in it could be crooked then when you put the door in it's going to be rubbing and we can't shave a metal door now with these welded frames you have these two pieces that are welded on the bottom they keep the jam square relatively so leave those on until you have it installed take your Carpenter square and put it up there you should be able to get that square it should be touching along the side and along the top if your Carpenter square is going like that or like that then that jam is not square if you can't get the jam square that door is not going to work another thing you could do is measure it this is a 36 inch door but these commercial doors are 35 and three quarters basically you need 36 inches from Inside Edge to Inside Edge and I have it so I'm pretty sure it's going to work so now I'm going to prep the jam for installation I'm going to drill four holes really only need three but I drilled four just in case one fails so I'll put one by each hinge and then I'll put another one right around here and once I have those holes drilled I'm going to hold the door in place put my drill bit through and just drill up a pilot hole on the concrete then I'm going to remove the jam and drill out a 5 8 inch hole with the masonry bit to put in this lag shield and I'll put that into the concrete and then I can use this exterior grade lag screw which is 3 8 and I'll put that through the hole into my lag shield and that'll hold it just fine you could just drill a hole through here and put that screw through but if you tighten it down you run the risk of bending this sometimes it's necessary to reinforce the back of the jam and that's what I'm going to do just kind of move the jam into place and see where you want to drill so this is nice solid flat concrete so that's where I'm going to make a hole I've marked these and that's going to go right there I wouldn't want to try to set that thing right there so pay attention to where you're making your holes so I want to get this thing plump I also also want to get this thing centered in the middle of the wall they can't go back too far because this door needs room to open so I'm just going to look at the wall and the wall is pretty plump not perfect but close enough so I've got one inch here and I'm going to make a line and then I'll do the same thing on top so line up your jam check everything for square make sure it's going to work and what I do is take a smaller drill bit and I'm just going to put it through and just drill a pilot hole doesn't have to go real deep just make a Mark I have to hold everything in place while I do that and that's critical since I don't have anyone here to hold the thing I've got it lined up with my lines top and bottom and then I just jammed shims in here and that is holding this thing pretty tight so with that in place I can drill and not have to worry about screwing up and you want to get a plum on both sides let's imagine that this thing is leaning this way I'm exaggerating of course when the door closes it's not going to line up flush like this it's going to be sticking out at the top or out at the bottom also Mark the top of it since I'm going to fill this with mortar because I got to put in backing up there a hammer drill with a masonry bit makes easy work of it you have to make sure your hole is deep enough to accept the screw because this profile is two and three quarters inches so when that screw goes in it has to go past two and three quarters see this goes to two and a half so that's fine if the screw only went in that deep it would hit the back of my hole before it pulled my jam tight whenever you're using a lag shield with a lag screw it's important to understand the relationships so I knew that I wanted to use a 3 8 inch lag screw so that means I have to get a lag Shield that will accept the 3 8 inch and if you look on the side of this package it'll tell you what size drill bit you need for that okay [Applause] so for this we need a 5 8 inch bit so I've got a 5 8 inch masonry bit and before I put the lag shield in I like to wrap it with a little bit of electrical tape that's not doing anything structurally let's just look at how this lag Shield works that wider spot is where the screw goes that narrow spot goes into the wall so when that Shield is in the wall and the screw goes in there and you start turning it the lag Shield spreads and creates tension and that's what holds it together but sometimes if your hole's a little too big or loose you can put that in there and this thing will just start spinning around and it won't grab so by putting that little bit of electrical tape in there I find that it holds it in place and then when I'm tightening these I give it little Spritz just and that keeps that thing from spinning around and then once this thing bites and the lag Shield starts spreading it's fine but I do that just to start it off and sometimes you get into loose or flaky concrete and that's really important now putting in this piece up here so that I could do my mortar is not standard with installing a door like this but whenever you're working with metal and concrete surfaces like this you might have to do any kind of patching or creative work so this is just something I did I'm sure there are concrete guys out there who can do a lot better feel free to share your videos now before I attach this here's a little something I like to do take a block of 2x4 and drill out a hole put it on like that when you are tightening down the screw it's not going to crimp this thing so I just put it on like that and then you can either glue this or tape it into place just to hold it in place while you put it on so it doesn't fall put your washers on your screws line everything up and then just put that screw in gently make sure the screw is actually going into the anchor and if you missed the anchor or if you go between the edge of the anchor and the concrete it's not going to work screw breaks off or misses the hole or just starts spinning you have to take everything off and do it again I get them in there a little bit and we're working on the hinge side first give it a little Spritz make sure it's grabbing see that one felt tight too tight so that means it's probably going between the anchor and the side so I'm going to back that off and check it now all the screws are into the anchors you don't want to just crank them down you want to go easy a little at a time and I want to get these things snug so this doesn't move because what I'm going to do is get this side set then I'm going to put the door on see how everything looks and then we'll set the strike side I had an issue with those bolts I had to go to a different kind but I got them in and everything is nice and snug so at this point put your door on and hope it all works out okay got the door back on just a couple screws in case I have to take it off normally I would just pop these hinge pins but it has self-closing hinges on it which makes it more challenging so a couple screws now let's see how it works oh look at that beautiful so I'm loving this Gap here that looks great and we've got enough room I'm gonna have to shim this thing when I put in the screws but here's what I want to look for see up top here that Gap is a little tight for me over here it's nice so that means I'm going to put a shim in the bottom and just kick this thing up until it touches and hope I don't have to redrill those holes here's another thing you can do since you have the holes drilled in the concrete already you can always make this hole bigger up and down or side to side and just put a bigger washer over that so that's no problem I definitely want to shim up the bottom of this a little bit so I have a better Gap up here and then I'll look in there and make sure my screws line up if they don't I may have to re-drill when it close seats it's all flush see you want the door flush with your jam from top to bottom so let's hope we get lucky with the screw holes so I just tapped a couple of shims underneath there to raise this and now look when I close it see now I've got a nice even Gap all along the top and that's what I want get the screws in there and just get them in the holes Loosely and then shim this in place and tighten them down when you're working on the strike side give the door closed foreign that bottom piece and that thing's gonna come out anyway got bent it's no worries so you make sure you got the Gap that you want when the Gap is acceptable then you work some shims in there to get it nice and snug and then you tighten it down [Music] keep checking each time you tighten it got a beautiful Gap there and everything is nice and flush no uneven surfaces with these braces I just cut them with the angle grinder and they snap off but go easy with them and we're going to cut these shims and we're going to caulk this thing with heavy duty sealant you got to put on your strike plate that comes with the door and don't forget put all your screws back in look at that beautiful now let's make it pretty I use this sikaflex sealant it's awesome put my tape here so the sealant doesn't get all over the door I put the tape on and then I wipe the sealant and then pull the tape off and you see that you get that nice clean line all right I'm all sealed up I'm ready for the stucco I put the sealant between the door jamb and the wood and I put black paper over that and I've got this flashing so that if water hits here it's not going to sneak behind the door and now I got my lath screwed on here and I'm just going to fill that with mortar that looks beautiful with a little paint you'll never know and he wanted extra security so here's what I did I got this eighth inch thick steel plate and drilled out holes make sure you don't drill into the locks and these are carriage bolts they go through now in order to get that to close I had to trim the edge of the strike plate but if that was someone's front house I wouldn't do that but it's a utility room they don't care and also you can't put that bar flat against the door or it's not going to close the locks won't engage I put washers behind here as a spacer and then crank those down and that way it lifts this thing away just a little bit so closes look at that seven hours some are easier than others and we got our flashing in there this thing's going to be totally waterproof everything is sealed solid that's how you install a welded frame commercial steel door go out and do it yourself charge whatever you want because people will pay

Channel: Askillthatpays

Views: 70,487

Keywords: how to install a door, door installation, how to install a pre-hung door, how to install a slab door, how to install door locks, how to make money installing doors, how to repair doors

Id: glMF8snmyBM

Length: 20min 6sec (1206 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 10 2023