How to Install Knock Down Door Frames

this Kevin with Mitchell acoustical and today I'm gonna take you through the install of a knockdown doorframe a couple of things to think about when we're talking about knockout door frames is the main reason why they're utilized in three pieces is they're typically for I want to save three models of commercial spaces a lot of times there is a piece of conduit going through a wall or some piece of conduit coming down that needs to be removed so that we can make this an access door in in these spaces so a lot of times in the remodels they'll want to put a door in a certain place and close up another one so knockdowns are the typical way to go so we don't have to tear out too much drywall the frame that we're specifically talking about today is a 307 oh the 300 means 36 inches the 7'o means 84 inches that's just typical door speak when we're talking in commercial construction we're talking about 5/8 drywall that's the standard on three and five inch framing so when we come to measure our door frame they're always gonna ask so this is going to be four and 7/8 the knockdown frames come in three pieces your header your two jams this is our hinge side and this is our strike side this is actually gonna be a right-hand door by the time it's all done and assembled when I'm first starting to install this I'm not too worried about the the levelness of the ground here this one just happens to be a mock-up that Dave made for us grab the ladder and it's always gonna be a little bit tight so what we want to do is put it up here and work it up and make it level as much as you can it's gonna help you a little bit later in the install now we gotta hope that that stays then what you're gonna see is there's these two holes in here on each side and you're gonna take this door and you're gonna pivot it all the way up and these two flanges are gonna run through here and then come up to the top see you guys what I'm talking about you've got these two flanges here one here and one here and those are gonna come up through the top piece you've also got some flanges here and here and that's your guide when you're moving it up through the bottom flange straight so now I'm going to slip it in the two bottom holes okay I'm just kick this nicely right here okay then you had these little flanges here and what I'll do once I've got this whole thing locked in is I'll take this flange and I'll bend it over and that's kind of what locks itself into I'll do the exact same thing on this side and you always want to set the hinge side first it's the most important the strike side isn't really that important and can always be adjusted it's the hinges that are gonna make the door look good on this strike side I had to pull it down one more time because these little tabs at the top can sometimes be a little finicky so you want them to go in nicely and with this flange being a little finicky sometimes you got to give it a couple of taps go ahead and I'll do that on our back side all right now the door is all locked in position I got to go ahead and plumb the head first and then the hinge side so when I go ahead and level this top head I'm gonna look for the exact same number so 41 3/4 heavy and 41 at 3/4 7/8 so I need to either bring this down or bring that so I put a shim underneath it looking for 48:41 in these 7/8 41 in 7a so now we know that that's level what I'm gonna do is change positions now and hit this hinge side all the way down all right that's pretty good so now what I'm gonna do is sometimes these knock downs have dimples in them for screws but sometimes they don't they've also got these clips that after the fact of plumbing this door and screwing it up here you take this clip and shove it behind this and pull it in pull it taunt now what that does is that allows it to not show a screw here and hide it behind the vinyl base or base on the floor over here so you won't typically see it I like the screws they just get painted over anyways and it helps in case you have to remove the door eventually or the door is an exterior door and gets rusted stuff like that happens all the time you just want to Snug it now the reason I'm not using self tappers is this is 20 gauge steel so those typically tend to burn a hole in so I'm just using pointers or what I call pointers which are your typical drywall screws that you can get it when our home depot lowes okay now that I've got this hinge side taken care of I'm gonna go ahead and measure 35 and 15 16 I know that it's an oddball number and you said this is 36 inches but I've noticed in the field and what it takes and it's usually thirty five and fifteen sixteenths and that'll go ahead and get us the numbers that we want to achieve for a nice reveal around the entire door and if you did everything correctly you're gonna have a nice eighth inch reveal around the entire door which will look which will look really good you'll notice you'll notice if you have a three sixteenths or a quarter inch maybe at the bottom or the top it's most likely this hinge side that's rocked one way or the other and so that's why it's most important to always try and get the hinge side first and then come back to this other strike side and move it to where you need it okay see so I'm about three eighths big on this side so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go ahead and pull it now we already know that this is my level side a little bit I like it right there one thing I forgot to mention is the opening dimensions on these are thirty eight and a quarter so when we go ahead and lay all of these out you're thirty eight and a quarter and then you bring it in 236 you so you've got about an inch and a half flange on each side here so that'll cover your bigger opening but that bigger opening allows for a little bit movement one way or another so I pushed it closer to the hinge side so that I would have more sturdiness on this side when I'm going ahead and screwing this screw up here and these ones down here this one can always be moved in and out last part of this is going to be their Zee screws and I don't really have any good advice for the screws that are backing out here all I can say is you have to feel when it's pressed against the stud the only thing that this is doing and sometimes you want to go just back and forth just a little bit is it's pressing against that stud and locking this head into position so it's just a little bit of feeling so that one's already kind of locked in and that one is too so so now this can't move back and forth and this is gonna be nice and nice and taunt and strong there so when we're talking about when we're talking about commercial doors specifically knock downs or metal frames there's two different types knockdowns which is what we just showed you and there's another one we're gonna be coming out with a video of welded frames those are a little bit trickier and you're not gonna have your drywall that's how you install a knockdown door frame they're pretty simple usually takes about ten to fifteen minutes each might take you a little bit longer if it's your first one if you guys have any questions let me know in the comments

Channel: Mitchell Acoustical

Views: 247,412

Keywords: commercial construction, mitchell acoustical, mitchellacoustical, kevin lochen, general contracting, knock down door frame, door frame, how to, how to install, hollow metal frame, steel frame installation, hollow metal frame installation, door installation, knock down frame, hollow metal, steel door installation, hollow metal door, commercial door, steel door frame, frame installation, commercial door frame, how to install steel frames, commercial construction cost

Id: r-PYXRA309Q

Length: 10min 13sec (613 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 17 2018