How To Fully Clean, Adjust, and Read Ignition Points

like probably not working whatever what's going on guys Cody for motorcycle MD and today I'll be bringing you guys a video on how to adjust clean and check over a point system on an older style bike this is a seventy-five cb750 and it will be our test subject for the night so be sure to hang around through the video I'll be showing you guys some quick and awesome tips throughout this thing and I hope you guys can watch this and have something to chew on when you go to work on your own bike let's get started now as usual there's always some tools that you need to get the job started the cool thing is that on these older systems people wouldn't usually find whatever they could in a time of need to get these things together and these systems are so old I'm sure there are tons of different ways that you can skin this cat and I'm sure that someone's gonna disagree with the way that I do my points but I don't really care because that's how I do them and it regardless it gets the job done and get some timed in and gets the gap set correctly so before you get the thumbs down just remember there's not just one way to do this there's multiple different ways to do this this is just how I will be achieving the task there are two different ways that you can actually check the points there's a old statics style which we meet which is just a light bulb and two wires you can hook it all up I'm not gonna go over that cuz that's not what I do I use a timing light old-school sears craftsman timing light and it still works and it's heavy it's like freaking of 5-pound timing light but it works great I also use an external battery not on the bike to help power this thing and this thing also has a clamp okay what this is used for is to clamp around the spark plug wire spark plug wire will sit right inside of there it makes a complete connection around it and it will read that pulse or that signal running through the spark plug wire now these these typically work best when the when you're in front of the heat shield for the spark plug wire sometimes I found that when I use these and go on the heat shield on the spark plug when Trevor cylinder I'm doing it on it won't pick it up or I'll be a little bit sporadic so you really want to get down close to the wire of the spark plug coil but yeah that's what I'll be using timing light works great I feel like it's most accurate again someone turned disagree with me I don't care I still get it in right now some other tools I'll be using which of course is going against the grain of what a lot of people will say I use some very fine wet/dry sandpaper okay it's very very fine stuff this is what this is like my my final step to cleaning points okay I also have some different files this one's a little bit heavier grit and this one's a little bit finer grit and there's a file and I wasn't concerned a point file but it's my points file and paper towel help clean the points up when you once you're done cleaning them contact cleaner break contact cleaner I don't really care as long it's not oil based tried-and-true what you should always own if you have an old bike is some type of manual impact driver okay there's two different kinds that I have I have this kind which is a little bit more heavy-duty but I also have this awesome little tool here and I learned about this tool from a guy or viewer on the channel Zippo Varga he and he had a pretty interesting channel on small motors and power equipment stuff like that really nice guy he put me on this tool here and it's called a vessel impact uh I'm kind of warning away but it's really awesome tool because of three things magnetic tip J is style tip as well Japanese industrial standard which works great with Phillips heads with these metric bike when you hit it it works like an impact driver and what that does is as you impact this side inside is a little cam and it turns it twelve degrees in it loosens that not just a slight slight degree but it's it's typically just enough to get the Phillips heads loose and you all know if you have an old 750 or any type of old bike they love Phillips head screws okay and usually they're just so tight on there that you're gonna strip them out trying to get them off so those type of tools are super helpful and again this impact driver I don't care which one I'll put links down in the description below I don't care which one you get and this one's a little bit more um handy because you can use it as a regular Phillips head all day long it works great but some kind of having you two like this it's great to have if you own a bike now as we dive into it I would be sure to show you guys more in-depth information about what I'm actually talking about cleaning the points what does that even mean studying point gap what does that mean adjustments there's three different adjustments and you can make on these again the manual probably tells you to go in a certain order I typically don't stand by that order and I go in the order that I want because regardless I'm gonna get to where I wanted to be anyways and it'll still be in spec I don't care what you say so we get to the points by removing the point cover on 750 it's right here nothing behind this chroma cap I've already loosened them up but I'm gonna go ahead and take this off and I'll change the angle the camera so you guys can see it better and the reason why I am diving into this is because this is actually a good buddy of mine he I've been doing a bunch of work on his bikes awesome guy it's just not running as well as it should I mean yes it's got pod filters shorty pipes that's that any other there could be other issues with the carbs or something like that but this is what I'm gonna check first I always check this stuff out first before I dive into anything fuel related but it's chopping up running out runs like junk over a certain rpm so there's a couple different I want to check but first I'm gonna check here and when I checked here I actually noticed a problem that I want to adjust so that's why I decided to make the video alright so we'll bring this shot in real close so I can kind of point some stuff out alright so is the last of going on here I'm gonna try to get to it the best as I can to help you guys realize what's going on so this is your whoa this is your point plate okay the plate that has everything on it I mean it's got different adjusters on this side a small adjuster here the whole plate itself can rotate that's why there's that's why everything is slotted all these little bubbles that you see they're all helpful for leverage points to adjust certain things you got your points here okay he's got point for cylinder one in 40 even says right there on the plate it's point system for cylinder two and three two different sides going on here okay you also have your condensers okay I'm not gonna get super scientific about it but the condensers job is to make sure that when the contact points are separated that sparked cannot continue to arc through that gap okay thus getting into point gap point gap is the gap in between this anchor point and this point inside of there so the points are these two little points that are touching each other okay and we'll get into point gap a little bit more it's more to it than that but condensers job is to make sure that once this is separated it's a clean break of spark and doesn't continue to try to jump side note when condensers beginning to start to go bad you'll notice a very sporadic spark jumping from the points it's not a very clean break when those points come apart okay so you'll notice bright bright white or blue sparks kind of firing off from here you shouldn't see that going on even though you may every now and then it will get a tiny little jump or something like that but I'm talking about consistent bad lightning bolts coming out of your point system okay now right in the center here this is connected directly to the crankshaft okay so crank shots running all the way through the other side on this end of the crankshaft this this portion of the crankshaft there's actually a cam lobe okay a cam lobe is simply something that looks kind of like this okay as it rotates the lobe of the cam is making things move okay same thing operating on your cam shaft up top same style or fundamental purpose of that cam lobe here so as this rotates you'll see that this will actually open and close these points so as I turn this murder through clockwise you might not be able to see it let's see we can see you get in the shot cans in a worklets way around there it is right there so now this point is now open okay it's at its furthest point right there so where this part of the arm rides on the cam lobe right here it's fully open that is as far as that point gap will go and that my friend is your point gap check right there so as you turn this through you're going to open this point up when you see it start to open up you're gonna keep going until it reaches its furthest gap and that's where your point gap is checked so via the manual typical point gaps usually are about 0.32 point four millimeters of space so the feeler gauge it's my point gap feeler gauge it's 0.3 so what I'll do is I'll just take my feeler gauge and kind of write it inside of here and this is actually a lot looser than on what I'd like it to be I can actually rock this feeler gauge back and forth a couple times so what what you do want is just a slight resistance on it so we'll need to adjust that as we come back around it will begin to open our second point for cylinder two and three and boom starting to open right now and as soon as that point breaks as soon as the smallest sliver of light is seen between these two points that's when it should be firing the spark plug so now that you know how what you're kind of looking for there's the most important part which is actually timing the points because that's what's so cool about these old systems that you can actually time them yourself so as I rotate this around the goal is to find right through this inspection window to specific points what a stupid light that lights way too bright so you guys might be able to see this so right inside of here is a little machined tip looking thing okay it's like a little point or a little line alright it's a little machine line in the case so as I spin this around you're gonna start seeing stuff on the plate being spun ok so right now we're gonna worry about one and four now we're on the advance marks these two little dashes on the plate that's being turned four cylinder one and four and if I keep going forward you're gonna see the first line which is the most important line for this which is a line with a F underneath it that F stands for fire okay and right past that is a t for top dead center that T is telling you that that that piston for one in four are all the way at the top of the stroke T top dead center that's what you need to know so that's really just trying to help you guys understand what's going on and what you're kind of looking for it can get very confusing but I hope this video you can rewind it fast-forward it whatever you want to do to get to the meet what you but that's pretty much the basics of it okay so the very first thing that I would do is check the surfaces of those points before I start going after stuff come and clean them all up first and then we'll start adjusting them so let's go ahead and do that now there's a bunch of different variations of how the points can wear and I want to make sure that they are wearing clean you know there's no pitting there's no debris on top of them that can kind of build up and they're not powdery whitish and all that kind of stuff so what I do is just simply pull the points open okay and then you can actually visually looking down on that point now try think some pictures for you guys so you guys can get an actual better shot but then based off of how they look into the big old pit on top like you see in that pitcher same with this one seem to see it big ol like little mound of stuff that builds up their corrosion cleaning them up is what needs to be done you want to make that surface nice and flat on both sides nice and clean and polished so in the manual they say use a very specific type of sander or stone or that stuff honestly they tell you to use certain items because mainly because they don't want debris to fall down okay so when you use anything other than what they suggest like a oil stone or whatever they say to use when you use like sandpaper or gritty sandpaper or files like this you can leave the brie on the cam on the contact points or even you can actually embed that material back into the points that's what you don't want so that's why the paper towel I have is to help keep that clean so what I do is I clean with whatever tools I feel that it needs some are more aggressive than others some are just in polishing stuff once I'm done I hit it with some contact cleaner to clean it up and use a paper towel to kind of wipe them clean I'll show you guys what I mean so force Romans do this I'm going to start with cylinder two and three on this side okay and what I like to do is just take something and kind of just put it right up underneath there and let it rest on top so now I have access that point okay so if it was really built up I like this one isn't it there's a lot of material that you have to take away this is what I'll use for this some kind of very fine file and the goal is and when you're creating the point did you use the file and you want it to be even with the way that the point is designed it's a flat surface you don't wanna go out at an angle and shave off the whole corner of a point and then it won't be connecting properly I mean at a weird angle or something like that and you want to be as flat as possible both context to touch evenly on both sides okay so what I'll do is I'll work on this point first keep my file nice and flat on top of that point and just kind of work this back and forth so that mean thing I love them with it and really looking at it and seeing how you're doing as you pull it off what I can see is as I'm filing it it's hitting all sides of that circle point but it still has that little tit right in the middle and that's what I want to do away with because that debris on top will actually change when he seems far because if it sticks up far enough you're not making a flush contact it will fire in a different sense and not as clean as it should be or not in the right time maybe a little bit off partially advanced or partially and when I use it may not be the politically correct word to say but when it comes to the points that is the best term to use it's a little bit behind where the point should be again that may not be politically correct I apologize that offends you I'm using that word but that's what the terms are used in the book and that's really the best term to use when I'm trying to describe timing I really mean no offense whatsoever and I don't know what your points will look like when you open them up you know but um there's things you want to be looking for like how thick this actual point is you know if you're getting real thin on it it's probably time to to to replace them or if you're having trouble getting them timed correctly sometimes it's because they're just too far out and placing the point system this whole point system will just solve that problem I've also ran in the cases where timing was slightly off on a bike and I could not get the point time incorrect because of time with all of the actual camshaft I'm gonna keep pressure on it here so I can file this top part down man it's really hard to see it this angle I'm gonna go ahead and switch these actually I'm gonna I'm gonna use a little bit more aggressive file for this top one it's pretty messed up it's definitely a lot grittier you notice I'm cleaning these but I'm not closing the points I'm not allowing any of that debris to imbed itself if I were to snap these points close or whatever that's that's really the main goal all right so once I got the surface back to smooth again what I'll do is I'll go I'll go ahead and hit my paper towel with some contact cleaner right and I'll hit with some compressed air and I'll take my paper towel kind of fold it up put it right in between those two points and I'll just release that file no I'll let it sit in there for a minute and I'll kind of take some of the pressure off so I don't tear the paper towel just kind of wipe it across that's all I'll do then what I'll do just to make those points because you know I was using that really rough file I don't want it to be rough like that so obviously I'm gonna smooth that out with some sandpaper really really fine wet/dry sandpaper I'll fold it in half okay put some meat up on it open the points and I like to keep this bent edge towards the points just makes it easier to work with and I'll just take that and with the pressure the points being closed obviously they are closed I'll use that pressure and just kind of work this sandpaper back and forth and this is kind of putting a nice little finish on those points all right and without dropping the points I'll take that off that was a little bit of contact cleaner then I hit it with some air before I go any further I want to stop this real quick because something I forgot to record while we were in there just to the left of that file that I'm holding you'll see a little felt with a little fork holding on to it that is there to keep that cam lobe I've been talking I'm not clean okay what you do want to do is put a small little drop of clean oil on that to keep that whole system nice and clean oiled and revolving nicely but they don't wanna leave that out back to the movie now what you are looking for you know with your points is the way that they are sitting on each other okay because there's a couple different ways that they can sit and they can sit you know not directly down like this but then kind of sit off like that they can do the other way and they can develop little mountains they can develop goes-- they can develop you know almost like news they but I'm not gonna bore you guys more on this other side I'm gonna go ahead and rush this through clean all this up the exact same way and then we'll get into timing sorry for the buzzer noise you hear in the background I got a heater going it's got the 40 degrees today as you can see I'm a little set up going on here I'm gonna try to capture something kind of cool I had the points all cleaned up exactly where I want them to be I've made no adjustments whatsoever all right so what we're gonna do now is we're gonna run the bike and I'm gonna grab the timing light gun hook it up we're gonna start with cylinder number four one in for the same exact thing two and three of the same exact thing as well so what I'm gonna do is hook my timing light negative/positive my clamp will go right here on number four okay see how I'm kind of as close as I cam away from this heat shield here and on that spark plug make sure the clamp is completely closed all right sometimes you gotta fumble with these around a little bit to get it to read if it's not working correctly but mine works pretty good so I'll run the bike operating temperature idle okay you're not trying to measure something that's far off idle rpm quite yet not until you're checking the advance marks make sure that it isn't but we'll get to that okay so I don't want to bike as warm as what I was ideally what you want to be checking it if your bike is not running you're trying to set the points up let's say you install a brand new point you're trying to set them all up I'll get to that here in a minute run the bike then I'm gonna switch to my other camera my phone and go into a slow-mo and see if we can't pick up the light firing when it should all right let's hope this works all right that work all right so the slow-mo was a complete fail it's like too slow or something I don't know but what I'm gonna do I'm record me using the timing light with cylinder 1 & 4 I'm not gonna trying to talk during it I'm just gonna go through one in four first I'm gonna switch the clamp over to cylinder 3 and fire two and three and maybe pick it up maybe it won't what I'm looking for is for the timing light it will flash when it sees when it picks up the spark signal from the coil so once it gets the spark so you know it transfers it into a light and then flashes exactly when it's firing and what you want is that light to meet flashing on the F I'm gonna give you guys a little bit of a trick when it comes to that there's a certain place that I like to set it up which is just a hair past the F mark I think they running a little bit better like that but that's just from my own experience of putting these things in plus you know some Olin heads have taught me that way as well so I trust it so I'm starting this up and we'll see where one in four is that I already know that it's right on the F I'm gonna see if they'll pick it up in the camera [Music] all right that's enough of that so now what you're gonna come to realize is that setting up points is a touch-and-go type of adjustment it's not just adjust it maybe sometimes you get slap on the first time and it's all they're all perfect you've probably been doing it for a while um but a lot of times you're gonna find that and the adjustment is gonna be a just check I just check I just check it's why it's good to have a battery charger on your battery could you be starting to mic up a couple of times until you get it all dialed and how you want it now like I said before there's there's about 1 2 3 4 different adjustments ok the main adjustment would be your plate adjustment rotating the plates which rotates both points at the exact same time so now since the advance marks are before the fire marks that's how you know which way it's advancing now my my cam loom is coming around like this it's turning clockwise okay so if the cam is coming around like this while it's firing and opening the point that point opens up that point opens up that point opens up that you know it's going around if you think about it this point plate can be adjusted with these slots once you loosen up these three holes and adjust both points at the same time as to where they contact on the lobe I'm not changing the where the lobe is I'm changing where these points react to the lobe if that makes sense so I can advance it to wards and have the let's say the lobe is right here and I turn all these points towards the lobe that loads macomb and it's gonna tell these points to fire at a much sooner time than if they weren't who I remember that makes sense I'm trying to explain it in layman's terms if I rotate this plate here's a lobe my finger being the lobe okay if I rotate this plate clockwise I'm now changing these points to meet over towards the right and this lobe will contact them at a much later point okay retarding the time okay make sense so that's one adjustment that you can do and you can usually do that you can really do it at any time and it all depends on what your points look like when you set them up or where they are if they're both if both one and both 1 & 4 & 2 & 3 we're both reading a little bit advance or a little bit you can actually take the point plate and rotate it in a degree that you want it to go to bring them both at the same time up towards that fire mark or back towards that fire mark does that make sense that's what the plate for it's like a main adjustment for both points at the same time what you'll notice is that on 2 & 3 you have this extra plate here okay I think a whole nother sub adjustment plate and then you have another adjustment here on actual point itself which is where you mainly adjust the point gap back okay so this secondary plate right here this one that and you notice that this side does not have it so if you think about if I adjust this main plate this main backing plate I'm really adjusting one in four and I can make another adjustment here on two and three to bring the two and three where it needs to be so what I like to do is set up 1 & 4 first okay with the main plate however you want it to be so that one in four is firing on the F and then make my sub adjustment here with the second two and three to bring that one back into spec okay so you're just one in four first with the main plate if you need to and then you can go back when you switch over to 2 & 3 at you to the point gap and all that stuff it's a two and three and then make your secondary adjustment on 2 & 3 so you know how to rotate the whole plate just to get 2 & 3 back into spec alright but the first thing that you want to do is check the point gap okay that's what I do first so what I'll do though I'll rotate this sometimes it's easier to show than it is to tell all so I'm gonna rotate this until 1 & 4 are open which they are now and right now it's probably at its furthest open point right here we're going to keep on rotating okay so if I starting to close now I will coming up on 2 & 3 sorry I'm up in the camera take 2 & 3 are open they are closing now now sub note for people who are trying to set the point for the first time so if you remember what I told you before as soon as this breaks its it breaks the gap assumes that cam coming around and contacts the point and breaks the gap that's when it should fire and like I said it should be the smallest little sliver of a break in this little thing so what I'll do I'll turn off well I'll turn off the lights that I have around me take my flashlight point the flashlight behind the point okay I can't show them the camera cuz the flash that we're just blind the camera out but I point the flashlight behind it and as I'm rotating around I'm looking down in down through here and saying okay there's the advance marks I'm coming up on the F I should be pretty darn close to these points starting to open so my flashlight right behind it and just look at it at a very level horizontal way until I get to that F and I say okay are the points opening and like I said you're looking for the slightest little gap of light to be shine through there that's if you're doing it without a static light bulb that's why they had an aesthetic light bulb tests because it's doing the same thing we're just not hooking it all up brother Laura so on the F and you would imagine okay that shouldn't be where these this gap is open and it is it slightly it's a hair open and so like I said once it gets to F this gap should just barely be starting to open up but I'm gonna keep rotating it until the gap stops opening just right about there okay and I'm gonna check that gap because now in that lobe is on its furthest point of opening these points up and it's a little loose to me alright so now that we've established that the where the points are as far as timing goes okay we we we know that the one in four is actually spot-on but the gap is too much two and three as we know is too too far ahead of the f mark okay so we're gonna obviously make an adjustment here on this plate but first what I want to do is make sure that the gap point gap are correct and they are suspect because the more as you go through your your adjustments point gap will be affected less and less if that makes sense and but when you make the adjustments the point gap can also change that's why it's a back and forth type dance when it comes to adjusting them but as we know when we adjust this main plate let's say I adjust this morning for gap because I know it's too big the timing of which that fires is probably going to change which means now Matt to make an adjustment on this main plate to dial that one in for back in before I proceed to two and three so let's go ahead and adjust that one in for gap like I said before what we're gonna do is just turn this until the gap is that it's it's its furthest point that right there looks like it's its highest gap right there so I put my feeler gauge in there so I'm gonna make my adjustment and what I'm gonna do is loosen up this Philips head screw here it might not be that easy to do you might have to do a little love tap on it okay and once that Philips head screw is loose and then use a flathead screwdriver you'll see there's a little slot in here right here as well as two little little machined points to actually use as leverage to move this point back and forth so what I do is I put my feeler gauge inside now I want to close that gap a little bit okay until my I feel a little bit of resistance and that might have been too much actually right there feels good I'm gonna tighten it back up and snug that now when you go to tighten the bolt remember that that could actually because I'm turning it clockwise it can actually move that point set in a little bit so you gotta make sure that you double check and that feels good I'm not moving the points at all with my feeler gauge you just want to slide in there nice and easy with very little resistance all right so let's go ahead and check the point gap on 2 & 3 and when I'm also going to do is because we know where that 2 & 3 is at it was way too ahead of the f mark I'm gonna try to bring that back at the same time with other adjustments and then I'm gonna recheck the timing and see where it's all that okay so that lobe looks like it's got that point wide open let's see where it's at that actually does not feel bad at all if I had a point for feeler gauge and probably fit nice and snug so I'm gonna worry about it that's definitely within spec but so when it comes to 2 & 3 when I want to make the adjustment right now it's firing too far ahead of the F mark okay so what saying is here's my lobe yeah on not necessarily exactly where it's at but where this contacts the load which is right here it's a little arm that kind of rides up on that little bit as it goes around it's firing ahead of the F which is too slow it's it's too late compared to where it needs to be so it won't remember so what I want to do is bring the F mark or bring it where it fires sooner which means that if this is my contact point from the point right here here's my lobe imagine just being a teardrop shaped lobe as I come around I want it to contact sooner on that lobe okay that will bring that timing mark back towards the F I hope that makes sense what I would do is I would loosen up this main plate back here I would move this whole point plate up okay that wouldn't allow it to kind of rotate more forward on this lobe and you simply do that by the same way we do the points got these two little Mark's here I would just grab inside the slot and bring this whole point plate more forward okay a side note if you can grab you a set of Allen heads to replace all these you been doing yourself a huge favor Snug these back up won't get didn't change so now what I'll do is I'll run the bike with the timing light and see where everything is that okay and we'll go with make adjustment from there the first time run check one in four and then I'm gonna go ahead and switch it over to two and three you won't be able to hear me talk but you get the idea [Music] all right so after adjusting that point gap and two and three not much changed on the two and three they're both still this one's still a a head of the F mark the fire mark but on one in four we're not because I changed the point gap on it it now is acting just like two and three it's contacting or it's making that spark show before the F okay and we want it on the F not closer to the T so it's firing too late so now what I can do since both of them are and relatively in the same degree ahead of the F I can rotate this whole plate now and bring both of them at the same time hopefully back to where I want them and replace this one because I it was old so with all these loose I can now take this plate whole plate I'm gonna rotate it forward and then tighten it back up and once again we will run the bike and see words that all right so I'm I'm getting closer and closer to getting to where it needs to be so one in fourth got really whacked out when I started to adjust this I think it's partially because of the point Kappa justment as well as when I made the adjustment here mine just been a little bit too much so now this one's a little bit too advanced but number four is spot on again where it should be so I'm going to bring this plate down okay in hopes of slowing down when this contacts that cam lobe coming around all right small adjustment [Music] right on the mother flippin money nothing when something comes together alright so that did it right there bring in the plate down a little bit to slow that when it contacts the cam lobe where it's perfect one in four in spec two and three are in spec I'm gonna do one last final check on the point gap because I'm like I said sometimes it can change with the adjustments you make now as you saw in the video you might have heard the bike rev up and I will check in one other thing which is the advanced mechanism that goes on while you're revving the bike up okay so that one's perfect so the two lines through here that we were talking about being in advance marks they're they works and typically okay so as the you raise the RPMs of the bike crankshaft spinning faster little weights fling out and move this set behind allowing the point system to advance okay so I checked that for one and four and two and three and both of them are both advancing just where they need to be and when we get back down the idle both are firing exactly where they want them to be so what I'm gonna do is just Snug this up one more time get to a nice Phillips head screwdriver and just make sure that everything is tight and then what I want you to do is one more time run the bike and make sure that it's all still in spec because I can tighten these around you may notice that it may actually you know just tweak something that's a little bit hopefully it doesn't I'm confident that it probably will not but it's always just one good check to do and that's pretty much it guys I mean that's one way to do it that's how I do it okay there's many many other ways that you can as far as you know point gap first backing plate for side plates whatever you want to do that's just the way that I do it I'm not saying it's the only way or anything like that there's a lot of guys who swear by the static timing procedure which is using a test light or some kind of light bulb with alligator clips to hook to certain points on on the contact plate and ground in and out making sure that when you rotate the crank shots as soon as those points open the light will light up and then you can send there but that's just not how I do it I use a flashlight and right behind the points and I can usually get you pretty close if you're just swapping a brand-new point plate on I recommend looking to see where that point plate is that the original one okay kind of maybe take a picture of it and just kind of see how and what as far as the slots go how far forward is it this any other that will get you somewhere in the ballpark regardless what I always do is rotate the crankshaft until that F mark pops up whichever cylinder I'm using setting my little sliver of gap right there going to the next one and carry on then firing it up for the first time there will always be some adjustments to do after that but with this bike specifically that was just the procedures that I took to make sure that everything gets right back to where it needs to be as it did the actually the RPM and the bike raised up sounds to me like it wants to run better like that so I'm excited to take it out for a test ride and see how she does the main issue was a mid-range problem with this bike specifically but I wanted to correct that problem first to see how far that would get us in the diagnostic phase so thank you guys so much for tuning in and hanging out as you guys know I do have t-shirts for you to grab go to the web site motorcycle Indy support there the shirts are awesome I've got a lot of great feedback about them and that will be the last exclusive logo tee that I'll make in that type of pattern so grab the first edition and you won't regret it they're super soft super comfortable also one more thing before you go if you like to throw oil around your garage get your hands dirty mess with your car's cook clean whatever you do with your hands that you may want some nitro gloves for I have a really really great company that has decided to sponsor motorcycle md glove works i been a fan of these gloves for a long time i'm the reason why i like them is because AI can use them more than once okay unless they tear I can actually wash them off and reuse them which is crucial to me when it comes to spending money okay a lot of the cheaper ones that have just basic nitrile gloves a really thin mill as far as the texture goes they rip when you go to put them on these also have a diamond grip which is the first thing that I've seen on nitro gloves and it actually it seriously helps when you when your hands get oily when it comes to pulling things apart whatever you're doing I love them I stand behind them and I wouldn't give you guys anything that I do not use myself so I want to give you guys a 10% off coupon description below will let you know exactly where you can get that at I'll have a link for you to buy them there again 10% off your whole order also check out their other stuff they got tons of cool gloves last but not least if you have not already make sure you subscribe to my email mailing list that's your direct connection to me we can talk we can chat I'll give you promos codes when the things come out when I think that will provide you value follow me on Instagram Facebook also Monday nights 8:30 Eastern Standard Time I do a youtube live Q&A where I go over some questions that I've gotten during the week that I feel like would help you out so both of the ways to get in touch with me I will see you guys next time this is Cody from motorcycle nd giving you guys quality tips and tricks for your custom build or your daily Rider see you guys next time

Channel: TheMotorcycleMD

Views: 89,030

Rating: 4.828383 out of 5

Keywords: point style ignition, ignition timing, cb750 points, cleaning points, how to adjust points, how to adjust ignition points, honda ignition points, point style ignition system, motorcycleMD, themotorcycleMD, how to adjust old ignition systems, how to use a timing light, timing light on motorcycle

Id: gT346KIYiy0

Length: 39min 56sec (2396 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 30 2017