73 Honda CB750 Custom Build Part 29 - Ignition system install

hey Merry Christmas let's make some sparks welcome to hack a week so how's this for a Christmas present a video on Christmas day we're going to get the ignition on the cb750 today put the points in the coils stick a temporary battery and crepe things over seedling make some sparks happen we need to get the points on this points plate first and we'll work on that up on the bench this is the points plate the ignition plate for the 750 Honda it resides on the right side of the engine and we need to take all this stuff off and replace it with all this brand new stuff it's all just held together with screws you can use a flat blade screwdriver or a Philips to take the pieces and parts off first thing we'll do is remove all this stuff all right now we can get all this stuff unwired from each other and put the new stuff on let's keep track of the wiring here these points went over here on the adjustable plate this one went on the main plate and that's the blue wire the yellow wire goes over there pretty easy to remember because it's a longer wire to reach all the way over there so what we'll do is just take this into part right here like this we'll go ahead and save those points they're still useable they're really not that bad but because I've got brand new ones here and that was oriented this way you know loosen this nut we're going to install behind all the washers will install the condenser lead and the points lead if you just arrange them like that that should be fine I'll tighten this nut back down it takes care of one side now we can mount these back up on the points plate make sure you get all the washers on the screw should be a large flat washer and then a lock washer we'll just snug that so that we can still move the points plate there a little bit and now we get the condensers mounted up there's a little dot on the backside of these and that lines up with the dot right here and then the screw hole so it keeps it aligned for you while you tighten it all up put this one over here in first there we go points plate all refurbished up except for one thing see this little felt pad right here that is meant to have a little bit of oil on it because it keeps the can on the end of the crankshaft a little bit lubricated whoops that's quite a bit of oil ha ha made a mess on my bench probably better to put it on this way these points came with this little grease packet and what that's for is to smear a little grease on the followers right here for the points inside there and as it spins around that also helps keep these lubricated and keep them from wearing out too fast I've cut one of these open already and we'll just put a tiny bit on the end of that follower on each set of points just enough so it just kind of gets caught back in that little corner pocket now we're ready to put this back on the engine cell there's three screws that are here in the engine I've got to get out of here because they hold the plate in I left them in there so I wouldn't lose them the plate goes on over the top of this so this whole nut assembly has to come back off ten millimeter wrench and then inside nut put it on there before I didn't tighten it completely because I knew what was going to take it back off so that comes off and then the points timing plate and go back on we'll put this on there with that circle right there pointed right at the pointer here because that's where you're going to look at your timing reference mark with the screws in I'm not going to tighten them up because we're going to be moving the plate around and these guys will exit right out through this hole here I believe a grommets supposed to be in there I gotta look that up maybe maybe not now we can put this nut back in place and we'll put the ten millimeter nut on there I shouldn't have to get that really tight just make sure that that wind upward supposed to hello that's good right there is the mark for cylinders two and three to be firing we're viewing that right through that hole in there if I rotate this around now 180 degrees we're going to see one and four coming up and rotate it a little more there's the firing mark for one and four and that's the top dead center mark for one and four right down the T mark so let's this is a one in four set of points right here this is two and three over here so we're gonna be checking the gap on these first it's time to gap the point so we are going to rotate things around here where let's see let's go to number one one and four and that's where it fires and it should be at full lift just a little past that I can watch the points opening right there I believe that's where I want to set the gap it is where it's at the widest opening so the gaps at its fully open position right now on the points we'll put a 14 in there and I can take a flat blade screwdriver to adjust the base of the points right here for a bigger gap or smaller gap I need to tighten up the screw just a little so it'll stay in place as I adjust it and 14,000 should just slide in and out of there real easy that feels pretty good let's tighten that up and check it again sometimes they can move a little after you tighten that screw that looks good now we'll swing it around past two and three which is this set of points and that's at maximum open let's check the gap there let's tighten it up right there and check it again see that one got a little tight on me loosen that a little bit listen that's a little bit that's good tighten it again check it again we're good now that we have the gap set we can set the timing got a continuity tester hooked up here when the leads touch you hear a beep I'm going to take the black lead and ground it to my engine we're just going to do a static setting on the timing there's two sets of points here the one with the yellow lead goes to cylinders 2 & 3 and the blue Li is 1 & 4 right now the continuity beeper is beeping because I've got it connected to the 1 4 1 & 4 and I've got it on the F mark and I want to turn this until the beep just goes out we're going to turn it counterclockwise right there we hear the beep go off so we'll just snug up one screw here lightly we're going to back up the motor and we're going to creep back up on it and see just where the beep quit beeping that's right on the F mark 4 1 & 4 that takes care of cylinders 1 & 4 so we'll Snug these screws up and now will take care of 2 & 3 which is over on this plate this plate right here moves independent of the bigger one so we can switch wires now put it on the yellow wire let's check ground yeah evidently those points are there we go we're hearing the beep and we should hear that until we come all the way around the other side where it says 2 3 and the F mark comes up and I'm going to put it right on the F mark and now I'm going to move this plate till it comes back on and then move it slowly until it goes out and then this one I can snug this plate just a little bit and creep up on it without their let's tighten that down some procedures the other side reverse the engine a little and come back up on it and observe where the continuity beep stops right the F mark perfect let's turn that annoying thing off and then we'll tighten all of our screws up get the two that hold the plate for number two and three and get the three of them here that hold the plate in place for one and four and we're going to check that nut one more time that's good that takes care of the timing this is the cover that goes on here now this one was a little bit nasty looking let me show you something here on the side and see all that rust that pitting and rust that's right there well I got after it was some triple zero steel wool on the top the top looked the same way before I just want to show you how quick you can clean up what looks like really poorly rusted chrome there's no hope for same spot take a look at that again there's the before and after you can do quite a bit with some triple zero stainless steel whoa now we can put the cover back on I cleaned up pretty nice I may find a better one someday but that one's okay for now there's a new gasket on the back of here I put a little bit of honda bond on the side towards the cover just to keep it stuck to the cover a little better and then when you pull it off later it'll just stay with the cover we'll just goes up a little for now we may have to get in there later and set the timing a little better or not I don't know but anyway they're in there let's get the coil stuffed in here let's see we got some numbers on these guys two and three and this is one okay so let's sneak this through here like this there's one where's two two is right there let that one go that way and then three to four will point out this side okay yeah coil mounted up in here get the aluminum boss that's on the coil mount over on the other side the right side I'm sorry left side of the frame we'll put a bolt through get a nut on there and we've got a clamp that goes back here I'm pretty sure I've got the right part here I'm not a hundred percent on this one but it looks to me like that's probably what the function of this was because it goes right there and everything I've seen in the books looks like it's just a clamp sitting there so that would go like that with the boss over on this side this time around and looks like the bolt went through but you didn't think I was going to keep your Santa Claus hat on coils in we're going to temporarily hook the wires up here with some jumpers to the points down here I don't have the wire harness on the bike yet so I'm just going to do it this way I took the two hot leads for the coil there black wires with a white stripe and their Rep some wire around though just joined them together and then I can put a clip on them for the positive side of my test setup here let's see this is going to go to 12 volts that goes to my two coils this is the number three spark plug wire I'm going to put a spark plug in that one and this is number four and if I test these two that I know I'm testing both coils because one coil runs one of them one oil runs the other let's see if I can get these where they're bumping up against a ground of some sort I need to be grounded in order to fire course that'll work probably close enough now uh let's see I'll hook this up to my 12 volt supply let's just clip that in somewhere here okay 12 volts go into my coil now and there's the starter lead bump the starter lead on there if I can bend it around ever and watch the spark plugs I should see some sparks and indeed I do I've got a spark on each one so I know I've got a working ignition system now told you it was going to be a good Christmas present I get my day off now because I produce this last Saturday while y'all were Christmas shopping anyway I've got the ignition end and I'm pretty happy about that all I gotta do now is get an exhaust on here and by the way Jace and each one I think it is commented on YouTube about I'm think I'm pronouncing it right del Kovac or Delk epic I'm not sure which anyway the exhaust systems really cool looking stuff stainless steel only 325 bucks looks like really nice set up individual pipes that go into a collector held on you know with the springs and then a really nice race style muffler on the back with what looked like a pretty decent baffle in so gonna look into that for sure that looks like the answer it means stainless is way better than you know something cheaper that's going to rust and it's actually less money so it's not cheaper looks like the Mac pipe is made a little bit more expensive and they rust but whatever I think I'm gonna go for the stainless ones oh thanks - what was it Jade anyway thanks Jay all right Merry Christmas everybody and until next time but it's good to have the exhaust that's not the exhaust that's the ignition

Channel: HackaweekTV

Views: 87,002

Rating: 4.9291339 out of 5

Keywords: diy, hardware hacking, hackaweek, motorcycles, mechanical, cb750, ignition timing, ignition points gap, points, condenser, testing ignition system, cafe racer, custom motorcycle, engine, spark plug, honda, honda cb750K3

Id: InPZuM_K9kY

Length: 19min 27sec (1167 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 25 2015