CB750 - How to install Dynatek electronic ignition & set ignition timing #1479

[Music] um in the world [Music] now then crew and welcome back to the andy mechanic youtube channel now in this video we're going to be fitting the new dailytech electronic ignition system sounds really complicated it's not this going by the instructions touchwood attempting fight now anna going around the instructions this is dead easy to install physically dead easy to install uh and then we've got to obviously reset the ignition timing in the last video for you guys uh we installed brand new ignition points and condensers and i showed you how to set up the ignition timing with the points ignition obviously when we take all that off we've then got to you know install this and then reset the ignition timing again but it's a very very similar process it really is uh what else so what else came in the kit well we got a wiring diagram so i'm just going to show you that now so you can follow that a bit later on there you go look so you've got the the two pickups are the two sensors here and that's the wiring now there's a few bits of the wiring or some of the methods that they're using especially this little square thing here which we call a scotch lock which is yeah the packet because honestly honestly i first came across these in england when i was watching one of the mechanics fitting october to a new would have been a nissan car because we were a nissan dealership it might have been redarc i really can't remember it's quite a while ago but they used to have boxes and boxes of these little things and i've stripped lots of little suzuki jeeps over the years and they were pretty common to use when you want to t into a particular wire and it's a really quick way of doing it the only problem is these things are open to the elements they're not sealed in any way and they do compromise the original wire in the loom because when you have you come across these before we're not going to use it so i can open it up here we go look right look inside it's like a little metal plate i think it's an aluminium plate which is probably bad for it anyway stainless would be nice little aluminium plate there you put your wires in and then you crush it with a pair of pliers basically and that metal plate then cuts through the insulation ideally either side of the copper wire but in reality usually knocks out a couple of strands on the way through so it's reducing the section of the wire as well plus it's opens the elements so guaranteed after a while corrosion will set in and these are the bane of my life when it comes to doing electrics on stuff if you spot one of these remove it it's they're horrible don't use them sorry scotch lock but i think they're crap good for a temporary pair to get you home but not good for a long term you know part of your wiring so we've seen the wiring diagram we're going to go through this step by step because well i've never fitted one of these before and i'm really interested to see how they go on and i was very dubious about how it works and stuff until i actually got around to reading the instructions um so dana go on to say remove the points cover it's already off to the off yesterday remove the 10 mil nuts or bolt depending on model and hex washer um sorry some pretty bad english in here holding the spark advance assembly to the engine right so we're going to go and do that and then it says point three remove the three screws holding the points plate to the engine that's the three screws that we undid yesterday on the previous video sorry on the previous video which was episode 11 this is episode 12 by the way i have to say that to remind myself when i'm editing it up um those three screws that were the adjuster screws for the points on cells one two uh one and four so we under those three we can actually take the whole plate off with the points and everything because it's never going to go back on the bike i don't think remove the spark assemb spark advance assembly from the engine okay and that's to do with engine rpm as the engine revs up uh we have to advance the spark because everything's happening a lot quicker pistons are going up and down faster aren't they um okay so we've got points one to four there let's go head over to the bike now and make a start and start pulling some stuff off the stuff that i set up so carefully yesterday jeez i can't believe that i'm taking this off so quickly we only fitted it yesterday and set it all up now assuming this is a right hand thread didn't say otherwise anywhere else well there we go it is excellent i haven't taken this off before so today is the day which is a very special little nut as well okay so on the back of there it's got a little slot that slots into there so he's not lose that i'll break it okay next job i think he's going to remove all these wires in all honesty that we put on yesterday so i'm going to get a little 5.5 millimeter socket to undo these change of plan i want to keep all this wiring with that plate and the points all together just to keep it easy for storage so i'll just unplug this out here this is all new wiring that i made up just for that particular video to be honest so i'm going to thread the get rid of the sheathing and then we can thread these all the way through the engine casing and bring it all out that way i think oh this pains me it really does in all honesty i think you could probably now that i've done the timing on this one through the points with all with the points yesterday i reckon you could fit an electronic ignition system quicker than you could actually set up or fit new points and new condensers and set the timing up that's what i think he could do i think it's gonna be a lot easier i'm not saying that it was hard with the points it's not but it's a bit bit finickety right so we can remove that jeez now i can just pull all that wiring through there because i didn't fit the grommet because i knew it was only temporary i wanted to save the grommet for use on this electronic system there we go perfect well step four is to remove this spark advance assembly from the engine so basically just pull that clean off there we go now take note there is a little pin on the back and that keys into a hole on the end of the crankshaft very very important you must line that up later on otherwise this won't be set in the correct position will it things won't work that's for sure right back to the bench well so far so good don't attempt fate but it's been pretty easy so far isn't it okay uh step five remove the points cam from the advanced assembly by twisting to the right and pulling well if you remember that this is the part that's responsible for for the heel of the points basically being pushed away from the the crankshaft and opening those contacts because it's got a lobe on it it's got a single lobe just to say make out the bigger the bigger radius or bigger diameter up there at the top of top side okay nice close-up shot i think for doing this bit now these things have had years and years of grime on them see how grubby is about there so i just want to give it a bit of a bit of a clean first before we go any further that's not brake cleaner that's brake cleaner okay prepare yourselves silicone that's better and you can see there look that's the pin again we've gotta be good must align that when we put it back on again almost looks like it's been rubbing on something doesn't it it's red marks on there there's a bit of float on the crank to check for that blasting it all over the instructions that's not going to end well is it so also this kind of stuff apart it's always really good to have a good look at it and familiarize yourself with how it works because you might have to fix it one day now we've got a couple of weights on either side and those get thrown out as engine rpm increases and the rpm point that they move depends partly on the mass of that weight and uh the string strength sorry spring strength as well because that's critical and over time those springs lose a bit of their tension so of course your advance gets a bit you know a bit out it doesn't happen quite the right time so if we just mark i'm just going to put your mark between the cam lobe here or the cam and what is the crank shaft now the crankshaft this piece here is all the same it comes out the back here and that's what's keyed into the crankshaft so you can imagine that this centerpiece is crankshaft now if i hold the cam and rotate this anti-clockwise you can see that the the weights will start to throw out it's all happening backwards at all because obviously with the weights it'll be turning this as opposed to this turn the weights but it's because it's mechanically linked we can do it that way so when the weights are fully thrown out so whatever rpm that is i don't know what it is it should be in the manual somewhere you can see now that the position of the crankshaft is further back to tdc as to when the points would start to open and that basically it advances the ignition it makes the spark occur sooner um before the piston gets the tdc a further distance away or crankshaft rotation and probably about an extra i don't know maybe another 10 or 15 degrees there look again the manual will tell us and it's going to vary from one bike to another depending on model and engine size and so on but it's quite interesting to see how that works might not make the video we'll wait and see okay now what's next oh yes we've got to remove this haven't we so what did it say it said remove the points cam from the advanced assembly by twisting to the right and pulling am i going to twist so maybe it means turning this and pulling yes okay yeah so we want to get those weights by now i'll give it a clean it's quite stiff actually something's happening right so we've got it basically means you've got to push get it to position where the weights are all the way out and that should then come off there this one's a bit tight so i think a little flat screwdriver is required let's give that a go it's coming it's just a bit tight there we go look right we are now beyond the weights the weights have sprung back into the center geez that is really tight probably because of the brake cleaner right come on misty you can do it let me rag can't really get a good a good grip on it there we are right it's coming now got it that was tight that was really tight should have been that tight because it's got to be able to rotate freely and this one really wasn't well not since i put the brake cleaner in it okay let's give that center bit a bit of a clean we've not we've not cleaned that but yeah have we there we go right done now this bit we can put with the old points plates in the day in the box okay now it's a good idea while you're in just a check for any kind of wear on these pivots and stuff make sure the springs are all good and they haven't broken they're not too loose that looks pretty good okay right what's next okay dana goes on to say step six on some 550 and 750 models a small pin will be seen projecting from the cylinders one stroke four side of the advanced assembly shaft delay now and everybody taking it off this permission pin was removed and can be by gently tapping on the side of the pin wait for it with a screwdriver and a hammer good old screwdrivers well it turns out ours didn't have a pin on the side of it it's a good job because we tried to do step five before reading step six good okay um now but step seven coat the advanced assembly um shaft with oil whilst holding it in the with the 1-4 so cylinders one and four side pointing up okay right right i'm gonna read all this before i try and do it um right slip the dana s rotor over the shaft this is the dana s rotor do not drop it andy and it's got i think you'll be able to see this or not it's got a little tiny so they say a little tiny magnet yes you can just in there look different that circley thing there hopefully you can see that okay so put that over there for now and again just for reference it's got the same kind of fitting obviously otherwise it won't fit down at the base so that's why we've got to get it fitted in please okay right carry it on a magnet approximately quarter of an inch in diameter will be noticed we've already seen that on one side of the rotor this magnet must face to the left when the one uh cylinders one and four side of the advanced assembly is pointing up okay so just to reiterate cylinders one and four you can see that there are 1-4 there somewhere yep just by the screwdriver hopefully you can see that yeah look 1-4 so we have that pointing up and um and then the magnet must be off to the left hand side basically you can only you can be 180 degrees out with this and that's not a good thing because it won't run okay um now then spread the weights and push the rotor down until it engages the weights ensure that the rotor rotates freely on the shaft as the advanced weights move out and back okay right we need to do that next and i think we need a little bit of oil too don't we i'll go get some oil right said fred everything is very dry now that i've cleaned it with brake cleaner i don't like how dry it is i'm just gonna put a little tiny bit of oil oh geez on those pivots now of course most of it's gonna get thrown out you know once it uh once it starts to spin up i really have the world's worst oil can it's not often i use it all right let's just get that worked in there a little bit first i'll wipe off any excess before it goes back in obviously but you know i think it needs a little bit of oil on those i really can't be putting it in dry that would be sacrilege okay now we also need to oil this section here you can see where it's been picking up look that's not good wait control yourself mr young right hopefully she's going to spin on there quite nicely okay where is it clean hands where's my rag the right guy just put loads of oil on okay so uh one to four upwards there we go look like that and this is a little collar so the magnet must face to the left okay so we'll pop the magnet there's the magnet in fact i'm going to mark the position of the magnet for you using the magic pen that's where the magnet is just to give you a reference because it's going to be all fingers in a minute ignore that yellow line now because that was something else okay so we've got one and four at the top and now we've got to open up these weights and you'll see where you can just see the little notch there look that will actually key into and over those when i get it in the right place this is where you need about four hands oh yeah we're about lined up it should just go on now there we are done brilliant okay so just to double check we've got cylinder one four at the top one and four at the top and our magnet is here oh it is a magnet look look at that okay so our magnet is here so that's how it should look when it's installed one on four at the top so we're one four at 12 o'clock this is just under nine o'clock just under right that's pretty cool it seems to rotate nice and freely which is what mr dana wants super i'll just wipe off all that excess oil and i wouldn't trust the thing to stay in position uh you know on the end of the shaft while you're moving it around because it doesn't have like the the honda one did it doesn't have this lip at the bottom so there's nothing to stop that being pulled and coming off until that big washes on the end a big nut in this case all right so let's give it a little bit of a little bit of a clean off get any excess oil it did need soil though so it feels a lot better now cool yeah oh yes that's lovely and smooth great job okay right what's next now mr dana goes on to say step eight install the advanced strut rotor assembly on the engine making sure the pin remember the pin on the end of the advanced assembly is engaged in the pin hole in the crankshaft if you don't do that then you're probably going to break something and even if you do manage to get it put on it will run reinstall the hex washer and the 10mm nut or bolt and tighten doesn't give us a torque setting booger and i might use a bit of thread lock on there actually ensure that the rotor is still free to rotate we can do that okay to the bike now the hole in or the peg hole in the crankshaft is about 11 o'clock as i'm looking at it so it's obviously give me a different position to where it's when you're doing your bike so we're going to pop that over there and just oh there we go look that's definitely definitely in quite happy with that yes superb now the reason why i'm putting thread lock on is i don't know the torque setting in fact i need a wire brush that's filthy okay going backwards to go forwards just taking that back off again for a second it's going to give this these threads a little bit clean get all the crap out of them seems weird seeing little studs sticking out the end of the crankshaft isn't it hey you won't want to bend it that's for sure that wouldn't go down well okay going back on again there we go bit of movement look bit of wear that's not so good is it that's a good three or four degrees there geez okay now specialist washer so i think we'll pop some pop a little thread lock on there now only a little dab that's all i need and we're using the blue so you can take it apart again don't panic right specialist washer they call this or hex nut that goes on first it's a bit worn should have got a new one really right one of them and just a pretty standard m6 nut bar looks of it okay now we're hoping that once that's tight there's still sufficient clearance for this collar the new collar to rotate so i'm just going to try yes it still moves it's good okay where's my big spot big spanner coming in probably the wrong size anyway so this is so this should be a 24 and it's so warm a 24 span is really loose on it now there we go is it still moving oh look at that it is fantastic okay point nine on step nine install the dana s using the three screws previously removed and tighten so on this step dana is saying we need to install this but for you guys who are going to be doing the timing setting the the advanced timing a bit later on with me you need to know some more marks because there's some marks on the advanced unit which are critical to setting that that advanced timing so let's go back to the bike now and highlight which ones they are so you know we're looking at later on because sure as hell once this is fitted they're going to be really hard to see here we go okay so we can see this is for cylinders one and four we can see a mark here oh geez go on camera what are you doing we can see a mark here with the letter t underneath that's top dead center for cylinders one and four the f which is slightly further forward is the static timing position for ignition uh for the fire yeah that's when the spark occurs and we used that when we were setting up the ignition points on the previous video now the advanced markings position is these two marks here on the right hand side um i'm told and there's not a lot in the in the honda service manual but i'm told when we're setting up the dana we should really aim for the furthest mark but in all honesty they are very very close together so i think as long as you get somewhere between the two we are good but uh with a preference to being on the furthest one round so i'm just gonna get my little paint pen and i'm gonna put a little splodge just underneath there just to aid us a bit later on and i'll twizzle it around let's get to um facilities two and three there we go look so ideally we want it to be about there about there will be perfect but we're a long long way from that yet this is just to show you what what marks you're looking for so again we'll put a little splodge just under there just to help us later on on with the camera right first job is going to be to thread all this wiring through here now i'll add the grommet a bit later on you will need to fit a grommet by the way otherwise your wiring will very quickly go to ground and it'll all stop working right there we go look that down there now then obviously the hole is at the top because that allows us to see the advanced marks and stuff a bit later on that's pretty neat i like the way it fits there we go a lot less gubbins than before isn't there okay let's get one of these screws in here it all jumps out just leaving them loose for now whilst we're here just to point out all the adjustments we've got adjustment on the main plate here with these three slots we've got adjustment independently on each of the two pickups with these very small little tiny cap head screws as well so each of these pickups can be adjusted independently as well but we're going to come to that a bit later on so back to the instructions okay step 10 route the cable over to where the points originally plugged in being careful to avoid the exhaust system the grommet from the point cable the original points cable a little grommet that we took out which is just here look actually saved it from earlier on that is the grommet so it should look like that it says the grommet from the from the original cable may be used by slitting it with a razor blade um to remove it well fortunately i just managed to get it off without cutting it so i've got that to go back on at some point uh 11 interesting one connect the wires uh with the blue and yellow bands to the to the receptacles where the original points connected match in the colors so bluetooth blue yellow pretty easy okay let's head over to the bike and connect those up so mr dale is telling us to connect these two wires one's got a yellow band and one's got a blue band onto the original wires that fed the points again yellow stroke blue but i can't do that at the moment because there is no way that i'm putting this kind of connector on a bike that i've worked on these kind of connectors are completely open to the elements and that's no good so i'm going to fix that i'm going to install some proper sealed connectors like these instead of these two and i'll also go replace that as well i don't like the look of that kind of connector either so i'll put a female uh a connector a bit like actually no but i'll put a male connector that looks a bit like that on there to become apparent very shortly right it's gonna work cut out now right that's those sorted out so we can plug those in i've left the little bands on obviously for color reference so blue plug him in there look nice waterproof connection brilliant that's what we like and yellow into yellow super job right back to the bench so step 12 we're not far off i don't think no we're nearly there remove the fuel tank yes done that already exits again about six months ago the fuel tank came off locate the two ignition coils this is what the normal instructions are there are there is a black white wire coming from each coil to a common junction uh in the wiring harness there is there's a there's a wire that comes down from the back of the headlight through the loom uh which basically is power it's a black wire white tray so that's the power feed to the primary circuit of both ignition coils and there's a little junction piece in there um using the spacecraft's provided attach this no we're not using that definitely not okay so basically they're saying that you want to tap into that wire to provide power to the dana system and that's the red wire heading down to those two pickups it says do not strip the wires now if you want if you'd like to see a detailed instruction of how to use a scotch log just for posterity not that we're going to use it there you go look pretty amazing i never knew that drawing even existed that is brilliant please i beg you do not use this in the kit all right i'll show you what i've done in a second they have a note and it says note the location for obtaining a switch 12 volts in step 12 is one of several locations so you don't have to take it from where the coils are and let's face it it's quite a long distance of wiring to add to your bike to get it from there if a more convenient source of switch 12 volts is available it may be used as long as it provides a sound connection one such source is the 12 volt wire leading to the rear brake stop light switch and in some cases unused 12-volt receptacles can be found in the motorcycle's electrical system okay let me show you what i've done and those that have been following the series will know exactly where i picked up this particular power point from so on this bike i have fitted an ignition relay and it's the power to the to the ignition coils that's switched by this relay no longer does the power feed go through the ignition switch and the kill switch so all i've done is the output is the black wire just down there look that runs up the back here goes into the loom and just here early on today i teed into that and now we have a red wire that goes off on this little branch to exactly where we need it and that will be only energized when the ignition is turned on [Applause] and believe it or not that's the red wire at this end so hence why i put a male connector on there because i can straight up and we've now got our power feed for the dana system so now we can plug in that main power feed for dana s system [Applause] job done perfect oh just by the way that black wire there is the one that runs down to your brake light switch and that's the power feed that you could t into if you go for that particular option to source your 12 volt feed for the uh for the ignition system i'd rather keep it separate and i've got my whole ignition system run through that one relay keeps it all nice and neat and tidy you know just in case you gotta do any diagnostics further down the line so that's the daler s system fully installed from a mechanical and electrical perspective what we haven't yet done is done the ignition timing so dana goes on to say under the timing procedure they say note a the left module fires solders one and four the right module fires cylinders uh two and three and each provides a plus or minus ten degrees of adjustment that's one of those really small little cap heads on each of the pickups moving them counter con sorry counterclockwise advances the timing and clockwise movement retards the timing note b all timing adjustments should be made using the advanced timing marks which are that's the advanced tami max not the f mark as that's where we put the little dots of paint and those are approximately half an inch to the right of the f marks on the advanced assembly where i showed you the work i wanted to clarify that because it's not that clear to time the engine statically connect a 12-volt test light from the junction of the blue coil wires to the ground so from that blue wire that feeds down to this to these pickups and then ground it to the engine case do not disconnect the wires use a wrench on the advanced assembly hex washer to rotate the engine step two turn the ignition switch on whilst holding the rotor in the fully advanced position clockwise slowly rotate the engine while still holding it in the in the fully clockwise position so you're on full advance slowly rotate the engine clockwise until the test light turns on the right hand advanced mark for cylinders one and four should align with a fixed mark on the engine case right let's go give that a go so first of all i need to tap into the blue wire here look this one that's the one with the blue collar on there on their wiring so i'm just going to push back this insulator back up the wire and that's going to expose the actual connector and i can put my little fly lead on there now now very well this is going to be 12 volts at some points we need to make sure that that doesn't ground out on the chassis or anything metal to be fair and now we can connect this to our test light and connect our test light to ground okay let's put our tesla on this side out of the way down to ground on one of the wires doesn't matter which way around it goes and onto our other fly lead on the other now again make sure it doesn't ground out anything and we've got the bulb just here so ignition on right again like i did with the points i want to get the bulb in a position where you can see the timing marks and the bulb come on at the same time so i'm just going to tuck it down there so it's going to light up behind you'll be able to see it come on not a problem now this is where it gets a little bit tricky because we've got to hold the advanced collar fully clockwise as we rotate the engine and that's just i don't know that's possible to be honest it's gonna be quite difficult to do so i'm just gonna move the engine forwards a little bit rotating it clockwise and we can see in there with the aid of the yellow dots the two advanced tammy marks and we're going to aim for the one furthest to the right so if i go a little bit further in fact let's try it now see where we are nope the light is not lighting let's keep going a bit further around nope okay a bit further or on two three we have to go bit further around we're doing one and four first jeez what a plunker right let's keep going okay there's one four and those are the two tummy marks just there look so let's rotate that collar now and see if we're there right that's fully clockwise and no light okay let's go a little bit further right fully clockwise ah we do okay so we're actually a little bit early on that so we need to turn the plate clockwise a fraction it's going to slacken these off a little bit there we go and we'll turn that just a little bit if you will it's quite tight there we go let's just nip that off just on one of the screws okay let's see we're right now okay so good the light is not lighting let's um just go around to the to the mark that we actually want now there perfect okay oh look at that so i'm just turning it very slowly and i want the light to come on us once i get to the end and that is that is absolutely bang on okay so now we can lock off these three adjuster screws one two three sorry camera a dog or gorilla on these because they're only little m5s all right one more check just turn it clockwise excellent it really is right on the edge perfect okay right what does the instructions say now that was really super easy got it on the first adjustment might take you a couple of girls just to move that plate around just you know very very gingerly just a fraction at a time to get it spot on but it's definitely worth getting it perfect now remember the uh the ignition coils are on at the moment so we don't want them getting too hot to be fair now where are we right step three if the marks do not align loosen the screws on the dana s plates the engine and rotate it clockwise against clockwise as appropriate when we tighten the screws done that four rotate the engine backwards until light goes out repeat steps two and three well i don't like to retur to rotate engines backwards so it basically we should rotate the engine what a full 360 degrees on the crank and check it again shouldn't we let's go and do that just to make sure it absolutely bang on right here goes i've just backed you off a little bit you can see a bit more what's going on so we're going round that's two three go back up to one and four okay we're going to line it up with the line there we go right full advance on here perfect good job well worth checking okay step five we're cooking on gas here after one and four uh cylinders one and four timing is verified and it is verified it's bang on connect the test lights to the yellow coil wire and repeat steps two uh repeat step two using the uh the time marks to sell for two and three if it's if it's necessary to adjust the cylinders two three ignition timing loosen the cap screws holding the right module so we're not to adjust the backing plate anymore that's all set leave that alone and using uh an allen wrench in fact they've written alien wrench so using an alien wrench supplied with the kits uh let's have a little look this is i've never seen an alien wrench before there you go it looks just like an allen key be to be fair to me okay we digress uh dana you've got a spelling mistake uh and move it clockwise or counterclockwise as appropriate um and re-tighten the screws it's pretty easy right let's go and do that okay so we need to be on the yellow wire now don't we just unplug that i'm gonna put the sheeting back down there keep it all nice and neat there we go and we're going to pull back the sheathing on the yellow now if you if you can't do that on yours then just use maybe a split pin or something to get in there so you can back probe make sure the connection is good that's important right now i'll do got a bit on there where's my fly lead gun there he is all right we'll stick him on there excellent right back to the crankshaft the more i'm working on this kit the better i like it to be honest okay so we're going to rotate the crank now to cylinders 2-3 180 degrees there we go and they want to line it up with the furthest most mark like we did with the cylinders one and four perfect and now i'm going to rotate this collar oh it's a little bit early again yeah it's a little bit early but about two millimeters additional turn of the collar brings that on you can hear the spark in the cylinder it's pretty cool isn't it okay so we need to adjust that so a little tiny alien wrench supplied with the kit that's one two now i think we need to come this way i think if it's gonna move that one's loose that one's definitely loose it should now move so i think we're gonna let's try it this way oh that was quite a lot wasn't it so maybe i can do it holding it in position i don't want me test like the short out so we can now move this until it just flickers oh maybe it holds state that's not going to work so i'll have to keep testing it that's about where it was before i think we need to go the other way yes we do too far going back going back going back there we go i would suggest a bit further this way again it's just not quite i want to get it bang on that really is at the end of the travel cool okay let's lock that off both the screws and just double check yep that right is right on the limit cool right we'll just nip those off don't go gorilla these are tiny there we go one more check that's good okay let's do a full rotation again like we'll do with the other one and double check it it's 1-4 keep going keep going keep going not far off now coming round there we go right another check here we go ready oh yes perfect i'm very happy with that really is just coming on right at the end of that travel super job don't forget to turn off your ignition very important oh i almost forgot you probably want to see if the bike starts don't you well i haven't put any extra fuel in the carbs but i didn't run out yesterday i did the points so what the hell let's see if we get that bike fired up right here goes a little bit of choke that was left yesterday ignition is on maybe now you might think we're finished but there's another option if you want to do it if you've got a timing light it says here in step nine oh sorry step step seven uh the engine can also so the ignition timing can also be dynamically timed using a strobe light in the normal manner use the advanced marks at an engine speed of about two and a half thousand rpm full that will trigger full advance on that centrifugal weight system once you're all done replace the timing cover and the fuel tank now it is actually extremely difficult if not impossible with the kind of camera gear that i've got to do the strobe uh check because you won't see the flashes and that'll just be me saying yes that's great and walk away but if you've got a strobe light with the human eye you can do that and it's very simple to wire up you just wire up as normal your strobe lights normally got a positive and negative they go onto your battery and then you've got a pickup that goes on to one of the ht leads now obviously when you're checking cylinders one and four that pickup will need to go on to one of the ht leads for either cylinder one or cylinder four and then you can with the cover off you can run the engine um you know get the rpm about two and a half thousand and you can strobe in through that little hole we've been looking through and you'll see the timing mark in relationship to the little marking on the casting the one just above it and you can do the same thing uh for cylinders two and three just move your pickup across to either you know either ht lead uh cylinder two or three um but i can't really do that on this video because you won't see the strobe flashing the the refresh the the frame rate on the camera isn't fast enough to pick it up unfortunately okay well that brings us to the end of this video we've installed successfully a dana electronic ignition kit and it is in fact what's it called it's the there you go i'll even show you the price how was that i was going to shut the box since it's full of bits it's full of all the old bits so there you go look that's the cost of it and this one this one was supplied by motorcycle replacements in dunedin in the south island thanks rick really appreciate that mate excellent bike shop if you're down there really really helpful staff i've known rick for a few years now and he's a top blog and rachel of course can't miss out rachel if you go in rachel will sell you a bike whether you're winning for a pair of gloves or a jacket you'll still go out with a brand new motorcycle which is brilliant so this is um the kit is a dana s and it's a donut s1 i believe whichever one it is for the cb750 works fine so hopefully you found this video helpful if you've if you're running an old honda four cylinder like this and you're still on points ignition i can't stress too strongly that you really should go for electronic ignition basically no maintenance once it's installed and set up i've set it up using nothing more than a little tiny test light a couple of wires it's taking me including the filming it's only taken me about three hours to do without filming would take you probably about an hour and a half tops to do it very very simple procedure for installation and you won't need to buy any more points or condensers in the future and i think you'll probably find that your bike will start a lot better from cold and a bit more performance basically on points ignition it's it's not very accurate in all honesty if you if you watch the ignition the the ignition timing on a an oscilloscope it really does jump around quite a bit you'll even see it on a strobe light to be honest you know when you're watching that timing mark it does tend to to jump around a bit with points ignition when you've got electronic ignition it's far more stable and that's what you want you want accurate ignition timing and you can't really get that with points especially at higher rpm okay so if you did enjoy the video and fingers crossed did why not click on the subscribe button uh you can also ring the bell and our friends at youtube will send you a notification probably an email as and when i upload any new videos if you're really interested in the cb750 videos that i've done the series this is video number 12. there's 11 more videos on the channel that you'll be able to watch and you know follow basically catch up because there's still a bit more work to do yet you'll be able to watch all of all the work we've done to date that includes wiring front brake we had a lot of problems with the front brake actually um what else did we do oh we did a full bike check there's heaps of stuff i forget because it's over quite a long period of time this and there's probably another four or five maybe even six videos still to go uh one of the videos in the future will include balancing the carburetors as well uh obviously there's four carbs on this particular bike one for each cylinder and i can guarantee they're nowhere near balanced at the moment we need to sort that out too now you'll also find me on facebook instagram and twitter feel free to communicate through any of those portals you can also flick me an email and my email address is down in the description you'll also find a patreon page for andy mechanic youtube channel too you can read all about the history of the channel how it came to be and there are profiles there and lots and lots of photos of all the gorgeous tall girls that have been on the show it's great to have them around tall girl holly was down on me a few weeks ago and i think she's due back sometime in february for all of us to plan all depends when the parts turn up for her dr 200 we've got a few more parts still waiting to turn up and you know freight at this time of year it's not great oh if you want to become a patron you can do that through patreon and you can do it set up a regular donation each month if you like and big a huge thank you in fact to all the patrons all the the supporters of the channel anyone ready to send something through to help us do what we do because without your help we could not do this it's not it's not actually cheap making videos really isn't it's definitely a i won't say a lost leader but it i do this for the love of it not for the money okay crew what else uh you can also use paypal as well if you want to not go through the patreon channel you can use paypal and the email address again is down in the description and a mechanic at live.cod.uk all right crew well until next time see you around cheers [Music] and [Music] much you

Channel: Andy Mechanic

Views: 9,510

Rating: 4.9024391 out of 5

Keywords: Dynatek, Dynatek electronic ignition, How to install electronic ignition, How to convert points to electronic ignition, Andy Mechanic, Dynatek S, Install Dynatek, Dynatek install, CB750, Converting a motorcycle to electronic ignition, points to electronic

Id: uAAin68t270

Length: 58min 40sec (3520 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 18 2021