HOW TO DETAIL & CERAMIC COAT A NEW CAR! 2020 Ford Mustang! P1 Wash & Decontamination! (Vlog 31.1)

[Music] hey guys it's sandro here and today's video is on a brand spanking new 2024 mustang that's pretty much been collected by the owner and then delivered straight to my shop the way i'm going to approach this video is as a rough guide of detailing and protecting the exterior of a brand new car for those of you lucky enough to be able to buy one as well as for detailers faced with detailing and coding a new car and i'm also going to try and add as many tips as i can along the way now obviously there's many different options available in relation to the level of work that can be undertaken in preparing and coding a new car and as such i'll have to stick to what my client has selected for this particular job but what i'm also going to try and do is go through different options available depending on your budget time and skill level and try to explain the what's wise and house but in any case every detail should start off with a pre-inspection ideally documenting the vehicle's current condition i've shown in past videos that you can use a vir or vehicle inspection report document want to make things even easier you can simply just use your phone's camera with a good handheld light and spend five minutes recording the exterior of the vehicle keeping an eye open to any existing and noticeable defects most new phones have 4k recording at 50 or 60 frames so you're able to capture a lot of information that can really help you out if there's an issue down the track i'll also mention that no new car is perfect and although i'm not saying that it should be acceptable it's quite common to find several defects on brand new cars but in saying that hopefully you guys can see that this 2020 ford mustang has more than its fair share of existing defects which i'll talk a little more about in part 2 when we get to the paint correction stage but all in all this pre-inspection is a good way to get a baseline feel for what the vehicle is like before you even touch it and if for some reason the vehicle has to go back to the dealership for existing damage or you're accused of damaging the vehicle yourself this documentation can hopefully bring the truth to light [Music] so [Music] so [Music] generally the best starting point is the wheels because they tend to be the dirtiest part and you don't want all that crime going back onto the paint after you've washed it and you also don't want water sitting on the car and drying up and creating water spots while you're cleaning the wheels use a separate bucket with a grit guard for the wheels and also try to use a more capable decontamination car wash detergent in your bucket with a selection of brushes and mitts now i'll have links to all the products used in this series in the description box but in all honesty guys you don't need to use exactly what i'm using here in relation to the brands just use whatever is available to you and fits your budget now i'm not sure how well you guys can see it or saw it in the inspection footage but these black rims are quite substantially swelled and scratched up well beyond what i consider to be acceptable for a brand new car and my guess would be that it's due to dirty broom brushes being used to wash them in this particular case the owner actually intends on getting some aftermarket rims to replace them so it's not interested in having them polished or ceramic coated but i'm still going to give them a good wheels on clean and do my best not to scratch them up any further to start with i'm going to use a tyre or apc in the grazer and liberally apply it to the wheel well entire areas and while that's dwelling i'll then liberally apply the wheel or rim cleaner to treat the actual rims themselves the reason for this is that the grazers are more effective at removing road grime from tyres and wheel wells while wheel cleaners with iron and traffic film removers are more effective and safer at removing the grime off the rims i'll then use a long and rounded bristled brush to clean inside the wheel wells followed by a shorter and stiffer bristled brush for the tires and apart from removing any surface grime i also want to remove the tie dressing that the dealership applied so that i can later apply my own dressing and have it bond well and look its best next is giving the whole wheel area a good thorough pressure rinse down to remove the chemicals but more importantly to remove as much grime of the wheels in a safe touchless manner as possible generally what causes swirls and scratches on paint is dirt and other grime being rubbed over its surface so the more you can remove in a completely safe and touchless manner the less chance you have of scratching the paint i'll then reapply the wheel cleaner let it well for a minute and begin with the inner barrels of the rims using my wheel woollies or similar long brushes these brushes come in many different widths as all rims are different so it's just a matter of finding the right size for your particular wheels and if you can't fit the smallest brush you have in between the brake calipers you can just roll the car back or forward a few inches to clean behind that area once the inner barrels are done i'll then use a small soft bristled detailing or wheel brush to go over the outer face of the rims and then that will be followed up with a microfiber wash mitt to make sure i remove any grime that i may have missed with the brush a few more hopefully helpful points i can add is to make sure that you work on cool rims and out of direct sunlight and don't let any chemicals you're using dry on the surface just reapply the wheel cleaner if it starts to dry up and then continue cleaning you'll also find that almost all chemical stains or etchings are a result of either working on hot surfaces or allowing these chemicals to dry and lastly if you go back to the footage when i firstly rinse these rims you'll see that the water was still beading and shading over them quite rapidly whereas after the physical manual clean the water is now flat and pulling over this surface which is exactly what you want to see as it means that you've also removed any existing waxes or sealants that's vital to do before you apply any sealant or coating to protect them now if you're after the very best result for the appearance and protection of your new car rims then an off wheels detail is really the only way to achieve that i'll add a link above to a two-part wheels-off detail i did here if you guys want to see that process but i'll also add that it really is a full day's work removing the wheels to fully decontaminate them then polishing the finish and ceramic coating them and reinstalling them back on the car so all i'm saying is that you should be prepared for a decent amount of work if you want to do it properly but in saying that they will look fantastic and if the right preparation and ceramic coating is applied it can last two years and beyond whereas with the wheels on detail and no polishing you'll be looking closer to six to 12 months coating durability [Music] [Music] next was the pre-soaked foam so once again using a more capable strip car wash detergent compared to your more gentle maintenance car wash soap this step is all about starting to soften and dislodge both the existing surface grime and any waxes or sealants in place if you're in a cool sheltered location i'd personally give the foam a good 10 minutes to dwell but back when i was doing mobile detailing i tend to give it three to five minutes and then reapply the foam and let it sit again for a few more minutes the best way to think about a pre-soaked foam is about soaking parts or even your dishes before washing them it doesn't negate the fact that you still need to wash the car but that good long pre-soak really helps lift more grime off the vehicle in a much safer and more effective way [Music] one of the most important steps in this whole process is the first primary pressure rinse down this is really your opportunity to make the most of the pre-stock foam and really lift off and remove as much dirt and grime off the vehicle in a completely safe and touchless manner so don't rush this stage move your pressure washer slowly and methodically over every inch of the car holding it about a foot away from the surface and try to get the water beam into the panel edges to also give the door jambs a good flush out which on a brand new cart should actually be enough to clean them out pressure washers can also be bought quite cheaply these days and you don't need the best or most expensive one but compared to just using a garden hose a pressure washer not only uses much less water but it's also one of the most important tools for ensuring your car is washed both safely and effectively as you're just able to remove so much more surface grime off the vehicle without physically touching it and in turn potentially scratching it [Music] so [Music] next comes the physical hand wash stage the last thing you want to do on a brand new car is hack and swirl up the paint which is unfortunately what most car dealerships do using dirty wash buckets and brooms now there's lots of different safe car wash methods we've discovered in the last few years such as the two bucket method the multi-mint method and the wash mitt rinse method all of which are much safer and better alternatives to the classic yellow foam sponge in a single bucket method that was the standard for many many decades every single wash method has pros and cons which i've discussed in the past so it's not always about which method you use but how well you do it so take the time to ensure your wash mitt is clean and well rinsed don't apply too much pressure start at the top of the vehicle and work your way down and around and also just work small sections at a time it's nothing too complicated and it really doesn't take all that much more time and effort to do but it's just still surprising and disappointing that most car washes and dealerships still don't adopt safe car washing practices [Music] is [Music] [Music] [Music] is [Music] next comes a secondary pressure rinse down which really is just about removing the car wash detergent and any dislodged dirt or grime so unlike your first and primary pressure rinse down which is a lot more thorough and time-consuming the secondary rinse should be much [Music] quicker [Music] is [Music] [Music] at this stage it's important to look and feel the car's paint see where you're at and how to proceed if the water isn't beating and it's slowly shedding off the surface then that's great as it means your strip car wash detergent has removed any existing waxes or sealants which is the case here otherwise a light dilution of an all-purpose cleaner can be sprayed on wiped in and rinsed off to remove any lingering wax or sealant residue but i'll also add that on brand new paint that's never been polished it's actually normal for the surface to be a little tied up so some mild water beading and sheeting is normal and nothing to worry about then it's important to also feel the paint for any environmental fallout some new cars are stored indoors and sold relatively quickly after manufacturing while other cars can sit outside for months on end so what i'm trying to explain is that you can't just follow the same procedure for every single new car as there's no point in claying or unnecessarily marring a vehicle that doesn't need it but if there is existing fallout you need to remove it before polishing or else it's just going to cause you issues down the track in the correction and protection stages on this particular car i could only feel some very minor fallout that in my experience an iron remover should really be able to remove it without the need for clean but if i'm wrong i can always clay the vehicle after this step so i'm going to apply my iron remover to a panel or two at a time i'll give it a minute or two to start working i'll then use a microfiber cloth to work it in and then rinse it off in my experience simply spraying on iron and tar removers and letting them dwell without working them in has very minimal effect even if you do see quite an obvious chemical reaction whereas when you work them in with a cloth that tends to be far more effective and if the fallout isn't too bad in many cases you actually won't even need to clay and in this particular case the iron remover worked perfectly to remove all the minor fallout with success i'll lastly add here that in some cases i will brush out exterior trims using some detergent or all-purpose cleaner if they do contain a visible amount of dirt and grime and if need be i'll also use a tar remover on the lower panels of the car if for some strange reason a new car has traffic film or road tar in those areas but in many cases there's just no need to do that on a new car unless it's been stored and maintained quite poorly [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] so [Music] [Music] be [Music] foreign what [Music] [Music] [Music] so without the need to clay the vehicle and with the paint and trims looking and behaving completely clean and bare the final stage is drying the vehicle now when the water behavior of a car is flat and poor it can be a lot of work to completely blow a dry so what i found is that if i spend a minute or two collecting the majority of the standing water with a microfiber towel it makes the blow drying stage so much quicker but if you intend on correcting and protecting the paint you really need to use some form of blown or compressed air to remove the trap water beforehand or it's just going to cause so many issues in the following stages and make sure you also open all the doors and jam areas to really get rid of all the trapped water in place [Music] outcomes [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] those things [Music] is [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] those things [Music] [Music] now just before i wrap up this video i've got a little bonus footage of removing the five liter badges on this mustang as per request by the owner who wants to replace them with the blacked out badges so just briefly you want to start by slowly heating up the badge area using a mid heat setting on your heat gun and you can also use a hair dryer but it'll just take a little longer the goal is to allow the heat to slowly reach the backing tape holding the badge in place so give it a couple of minutes and don't crank up the heat or you'll just end up melting the badge and potentially damaging the paint you can then either use some dental floss or some fishing line and pulling it towards you you'll run it in between the badge and the car panel it may take a little time depending on the actual badge itself so you may need to re-heat the area as you continue using the floss or fishing line [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] once the badge is off a great tool for removing the adhesive tape is to use a drill driven caramel rubber wheel which makes light work of this job unfortunately for me i actually misplaced my caramel wheel a while back and i did order a new one but it actually didn't arrive in time so in the absence of a caramel wheel you'll just have to spend a little more time picking off the tape with your fingers but once you've got the majority of it off you can then use some tar and adhesive remover to collect the rest of the residue i hope you guys stay tuned for part 2 where i'll be going through how to polish and correct brand new car paint to remove existing defects and amplify the gloss and saturation of the paint in preparation for a ceramic coating as always i really hope you guys enjoyed and found this video useful please share this video like comment and subscribe to this channel to show your support for this content and i'll see you guys soon [Music] [Applause] [Music]

Channel: Car Craft Auto Detailing

Views: 56,796

Keywords: 2020 ford mustang, how to detail new car, how ceramic coat new car, paint correction, carpro, nv car care, best ceramic coating, best car wax, best car polish

Id: s1mhbRo3Cmc

Length: 28min 16sec (1696 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 13 2020