How To Desolder Electronic Parts Using Different Tools.

hi there and welcome to episode of mr. Carlson's lab in the previous video we took a look at some soldering techniques in this video we're gonna take a look at some desoldering techniques we're and also take a look at a bunch of different desoldering tools and you can make the decision which the soldering tool is the best for you so let's get started kondeh bench is a bunch of different desoldering tools throughout this video I'm going to use each one of these different desoldering tools in different applications and on different technologies to give you a better idea of which particular tool might be best for you or you might even want to own multiples of these things I have to say that no matter what owning a roll of wick material really is kind of necessary because you'll find yourself using this in odd situations where these tools just won't fit so sometimes you'll deal with a tight area having a roll of wick really it's kind of a necessary thing now you don't need to have a huge roll like this this is a pretty big rule they come in some pretty small packages so it's always good just to have a little bit kicking around to give you an idea I've had this stuff for a very long time so you know use it just sporadically really handy for you know desoldering surface mount stuff as well and cleaning pads but I'll get into that here in the video so what we're gonna do first is take a look at each one of these tools just before we get started here and I'll show you how each one of them works and their quirks and cleaning them and all that kind of stuff the first D soldering tool that we're going to look at is this solder pole and these things work very well I have owned my fair share of these things but they do have a bunch of quirks and one of them is is that you have to manually load this thing every time you want to use it and if you're going to die solder off an IC will say sixty-four pins on it there's a bit of fatigue involved because you're continually having to load it and then you press the button with this on the trace and it inhales the solder and then to the next pin and so on and so forth and anybody that's owned one of these things will know exactly what I'm talking about if you're going to be desoldering ICS or any kind of circuit board where you're going to be you this thing in kind of a repetitive motion they do cause a little bit of fatigue now they are a great device and they self clean you can see at the end here when I press this in seal kind of pops out of the end there so it's kind of self cleans its own nozzle you'll find that sometimes they do jam up depending on how much solder this thing sucks up so if you're doing point-to-point work or something like that with this device here you'll find that this thing is going to be sucking up larger chunks of solder and sometimes it bowls up right on the end and it'll plug on the insights they have to take it apart so before you take the thing apart it's always a good idea to get rid of the tension there and they come apart really easy you just give them kind of a half turn twist and they come apart and you can see that there's a seal inside here and this thing just goes up and down inside here so when you're charging the thing up you're pressing this thing down like so you can see here you're gonna charge this thing up so what that's happening is this thing is going to extend to the end of the tube here this thing will be just inside the nozzle and then when you hit the button this thing quickly snaps back and creates suction and inhales the solder here pulls the solder into this chamber that you see here see you down there through the bottom and this thing eventually fills up or you know you get a bunch of solder and here you wouldn't really fill this thing up but you get a bunch of solder in here and you'll have to take it apart and clean it out and you'll find that these things get sticky you'll have to lube this seal up every now and then and take the thing apart and clean it out so just kind of standard procedure with one of these things so when they go back together pretty simple put together like this and just give it a turn and you're often working again so we'll use this here on a bunch of different technologies and I'll show you what I mean with this one here this desoldering tool is the smaller version of the other one and there are a few pros and cons to owning this particular device we'll talk about the pros here first so one of the pros is it's a lot smaller you can hold the thing in one hand you can charge the thing with one finger and activate it just like that now depending on the strength of your thumb and what your dissol during again there's gonna be a little bit of fatigue with this after a while especially if you're working on a large circuit board you have to remove lots of parts now the other one that we just looked at really you have to use two hands or there's no way that you can charge this thing with your thumb right one of the things that I find myself doing and a lot of people do as well is in order to charge this thing you hold this in your hand like so you turn this around and you press this against your hip and push it in like so and then you use it like so back and forth and you'll find yourself doing that a lot especially if you're holding on to a circuit board or something or you've got an an iron in one hand and you're wanting to use this so it just really depends on your application but again with this tool here you know you get quite a bit more suction and I find that these things lost quite a bit longer now again looking at this tool here this tool here is an aluminum cylinder here and it has the seals inside just like the other one does the only problem with this is is this is a very hard plastic material and in order to clean this thing up really well you've got to take the top off and take the bottom off so you can get in the cylinder here and you know you clean it out really well clean the seal off and put a bit of lubricant on it and nothing's good to go again but you can only do that so many times because this hard plastic ends up wearing out the threads wear off and one time you'll find yourself doing this the whole back end will shoot right out of it just because the threads wear out so that's one of the really big cons of these things you'll go through quite a few of these things compared to one of the other ones just for that particular reason in fact I probably can't count how many of these things I've gone through in the past so I've owned all of these tools in the past now I just stick to one and I'll talk about that here in just a moment I actually have sticked it to this device here on this end if you take it apart here this is aluminum and this is aluminum so it really won't wear out all that fast if you just stick to taking this one little area off but again that stops you from cleaning the seal and lubricating it on the top and it makes cleaning this chamber out quite a bit more difficult without taking both ends off so if you were to just remove this one end and leave this alone I imagine you'd get a little bit more life out of it but again you know if you're not doing desoldering on you know a large scale you just do it every once in a while you might find that this little one gets you by again you know a little bit easier to use since this is kind of a one-hand deal to charge whereas the other one if you're not used to it you're gonna find yourself doing this a lot you have to put your iron down to do that right and then you do your desoldering put your iron down again and recharge the device and things like that so that's the two desoldering tools the kind of manual activation kind of desoldering tools if you buy one of these things and you find that you're doing a lot of desoldering i think you're going to very quickly find yourself moving up to this one here if you're going to be doing desoldering on a larger scale this is definitely the way to go now to give you an example if you're just start a business electronic repair business or something like that and you were to work on different items that have lots of faulty capacitors in it one of those items being switch mode power supplies I've worked on some switch mode power supplies that have 40 capacitors inside them so think about charging this thing 80 times to replace all those capacitors push it discharge and sometimes it doesn't work the first time you don't get all the solder so you have to reapply solder again and try again with this particular device so owning one of these things and doing large-scale desoldering gets old very fast so this is the way to go this is a motorized pump here and everything is all done the tip is heated so what you do is you just put this on there and hit the button and I'll show you the technique to using this device here and you know using it effectively now the downfall to having something like this of course is the higher price tag but again if you're gonna be doing this as a business it would pay off very quick and if you're a hobbyist to the extreme you know they are kind of nice tone for that as well you don't ever have to use one of those other devices so in order to change the tip on this one with a unit cold here just put this on give it a twist this here loosens up and you can just take the tip off like this and change this to a different one now the reason that you're gonna want to change your tips is because the little hole in here is different diameters so you can change these things to really suit whatever you're working on so say you're working on some small ICS you know you could use the 0.8 to 1 millimeter tip and if you're working on larger capacitors you could use a 1.3 or 1.6 millimeter tip and that works very well now in order to get this thing to go back on again you can see that this is almost has like a coarse spline on it or fluted however you want to call that so that fits into the end here and what happens is is it has to fall through you can see that one of the tricks to this thing is if it's not sitting in right say it's sitting like that okay and you try and push it on to the end here you could damage this you never want to force it you have to make sure that this thing is raid out to the end now of course you never want to handle this one this is hot because this is screaming hot this thing is an element when it's on right so you have to be very very careful when you're changing tips you know I usually don't change tips until the unit's cold a lot of people change these things when they're hot I don't really suggest that in order to put this back together make sure that again that this tip is right you know fully out if it's not if it's say like this and you try and put this thing back on you can see that it's going to fight so you want to make sure that that tip is properly in rate to the end of the the throw there put this thing on and just give it a just like that and you're back in business again so the device is very effective it's cold right now I haven't warmed this thing up yet if you buy this thing in the kit it comes in a case with this and kind of like a steel cylinder so that you can quickly put it back into its mobile case if you're wanting to have this thing on your bench I strongly suggest to get some form of solder here and holder I got this one here it's just an aftermarket one you drop the tips into this little area down here see that right there and you can adjust it this thing just sits in here like so so you can adjust the angle see that there and just adjust the angle and it'll hold the thing up so just a large generic holder and tighten this little threaded area up here this one right here so you can get the right angle on the thing and just have it sitting on your bench like so when you need it you just pull the thing out use the back in the holder and it's ready to go next time now one of the things with these newer hey coves this is the hakko fr 300 okay so one of the things with this is you'll notice that these tips get one out of here again our fluted whereas in the older machines this is the 802 that I have as well so I have two devices here this one here of course this is cold as well this one here has a different tip and this is also a little bit smaller diameter here so you'll find that this tip will not work in this particular desoldering tool just because this has got those little splines on it or whatever you want to call them so you can see that they are definitely different and you can see the diameter there is quite a bit different as well you can see that smaller whereas this is larger now I hear that this is interchangeable and let's try it out see if it is so I'll put this on here like so put this on here I haven't tried this yet so it looks like they are backward compatible so this will fit into this one here because there's no area for this to lock into so if you owned one of these tools here you could just pretty much purchase the newer style tips and you'd get away with it now for me I've got lots and lots of these older tips that are good so I'll just keep these ones for the newer machine here and I'll use these ones I also find that the diameter on some of these older tips there's lots of these things around you can get some very large diameters and one of the nice things about these things too is when they finally do go away so these things are very very tough again like with the soldiering iron you never want to use any of these things to pry or to bend up it's tempting believe me when you have a lead folded over on a circuit board you kind of want to poke it into the tip and use it to pry it out very hard on these things and I've done that before so it's always good to heat it up bend the lead up and then go in and do solder it just to extend the life of the tip here but the nice thing about these things here is actually I'll go grab this spare tips somewhere here there it is just get these out of here these are the new ones these are some of the new replacement ones for this one here I always have lots of spares on hand yes it does get a little bit pricey to have spares as well so these are the tips for the older machine here and you can see which one is it this one here this one here wore out so what I ended up doing is just grinding the end right off and I use this for just extreme applications when you're dissolving some of the large bulk capacitors in the in the switch mode power supplies or whatever power supply here and what I'll do is I will go grab one of those capacitors right now takes a pretty large desoldering tool to remove these types of capacitors just because of you know the size of the pin so taking one of these things here and cutting it down a worn-out tip you know that's quite nicely there and again this is a for very brief use because this is worn out and this has gone through the pleating material this will wear out very fast if it's just left on this machine so it's it's a very quick use you use this to you know do the bulk capacitors shut the unit off and then change the tip so see here I put this together these here only usually need to be finger tight you really don't need to tighten them any tighter than that you can see that that's quite nicely and it's you know got a lot of area you want to make sure that this is flat so it you know contacts the trace nice and flat and don't have any sharp edges so that you gauge traces but anyways one of the tricks and you can do that with these as well when they wear out we could take one of these things and modify the tip so that it's larger for you know doing some of the larger components so that's the two devices here so we know that this is kind of backwards compatible so you know this is an older device this still works very well and this particular machine I modified it it has a pretty slow pump had really good suction to begin with but I had to how would you say hop it up hop up the the pump a little bit so the pump goes probably twice to three times as fast right now so it has to con rods and to Pistons that that move in and out in the actual pump the hakko four seventy base and I thought in the beginning that I end up I might end up throwing a rod but it's held up pretty good then it's got lots of suction in fact it has so much suction that if you use this on a continual basis I think it actually cools this thing off and some of the solder gets jammed up in here so it has a very good suction so it makes nice clean you know makes a nice clean job but anyways I'll get into that here into the future here and I'll show you the drive I built for it it's a a variable frequency drive in order to speed the motor up it's an AC induction motor in the pump I pulled a circuit board out of my scrap bin here and what we're going to do is D solder three different components with three different desoldering tools so you can see here there's some large capacitors here it's a double sided circuit board so this should be a good test for all three of the components so the first component that we're going to start with is the sole to pult want to make sure that it's charged so press this down there's nothing worse than getting all set up and then pressing that little yellow button and nothing happens so the first one that we were wanting to do solder will be this one right here now you'll notice that when you use these solder poults you have to put a little bit of down pressure on the soldering iron tip and on a glossy board like this sometimes you'll leave a little bit of a mark beside the little trace or the plated through-hole in this case so not a big deal but you want to make sure that if you're going to be pressing down you're not pressing down on another trace so you need to create a good seal so that you can vacuum the joint out properly you also want to make sure that there's enough solder on there so that it will vacuum properly if there isn't enough solder you want to add some solder to D solder a little bit of a technique there so what I'll do is I'll get my iron ready here I'll clean the tip off just a bit of solder here and it's always good to add a bit of solder just because it makes thermal connection a little bit quicker now one thing you need to keep in mind is that you're going to be dealing with a little bit of dwell time here if you're not familiar with dwell time I explained that in the previous video dwell time is the amount of time that the tip is on the circuit board on the trace or plated through hole in this case it'll be a plated through-hole so you want to keep that as short as possible but yet you want to heat the joint up and allow that basically the heat to melt the solder on both sides of the board because this is double-sided circuit board so let's give this a shot and see what will happen you see it's just about melted there and it's loose so now I want to give it some vacuum and looks like it didn't do too bad of a job see on the side here looks like it cleared it out okay so we'll try it on the other side so it should be right about here so I just a little bit more solder to the end of my iron here recharge the pump so you're gonna press this back down again don't forget to do that and or here we go you want to let it melt through the board and you'll see how that one one my one okay so now you got to be careful with this that you don't go breaking the plated through holes you want to rock this back and forth to see if it's loose this side here seems to be pretty good but this side here seems that it might still be grabbing on that portion of the plated through-hole so what you want to do is you can just heat this as long as you're careful don't put too much pressure on it with your soldiering iron tip just move it over just a little bit so basically heat it up and give it a bit of a push like so and a lot of the times that helps out a lot so we'll see here yeah that's pretty much freed up see I'm just coming straight out I just want to be very careful that one's out and this one here and this over just a little bit it's just about trying to come up it might be that the end of this from being cut sometimes from being cut you can see that there from being cut they don't want to come out because the cutter actually almost flattens the top you can see it's stopping there so that is actually the problem it's not solder is completely gone it's just because basically it's been cut by a dolt tighter it's really what's happening so we'll grab another cutter here and I'll just trim that top area off with a sharp cutter whenever you do this one eye protection that's a nice sharp cutter so that should look at that just falls right out so if you have a dull cutter there's another little hint for you you want some nice sharp ones so it didn't work too bad so that is the first desoldering tool that is the solder bolt okay next up the smaller blue one let's give this one a shot so looks like there's quite a bit of solder on that joint there so I had it just a little bit to the other one huh you know what you know add just a little bit to this one just to make it a little bit easier on the smaller one there we go okay here we go pump is charged just press down and one yeah let's try this one here - alright see how that did looks like you might have done okay again still a little bit stuck on the sides there so I'll give this one just a bit of a push this and it feels like it's still pretty solid so definitely not the vacuuming power of the big one that's for sure you can see there's still quite a bit of solder on that one it actually just sealed it so we'll heat this up and try one more time and this one here one more time again okay that did the job now it's a little bit loose this one side here might be okay I think it's you know risking pulling a plated through-hole at this point not only that this is probably cut by those dull cutters as well I'll just heat this up a little bit give it a bit of a pull this plated through-hole up and I'm just helping it through on this side just by giving it a bit of a tug so technically through this one this one here let's see wiggle this yeah might try to come through that one feels pretty loose again I think this is more of an issue with that with that cutter so I'll just cut this end off here so yeah I needed some help definitely not the vacuuming power of the other one so now next we'll try the hakko on this one right here all right let's try the hakko so I'm not even gonna give this one any kind of help I won't even add any solder to this to make it any easier we'll just make this about as hard as it can be for this a little bit of solder on the joint I have the 1.6 millimeter tip on here there's one and we'll go over here to this other one there we go you see that this one just basically wants to fall out of the board but no one actually did this one was cut a little bit better so you can see that much easier much easier with that device now this is the one point six millimeter tip on this one I can probably get away with a 1.3 and as you can see this is a shiny board and it's leaving just a little bit of a mark you're very very sensitive board so that's just the way it is and this is a brand new tip as well and since we're here who easel take the last one note as well so this looks like it right here [Music] here's a tip for you if you have one of these powered vacuum desoldering units whether it be a heyco or whatever you have in order to make that components come out of the board easier what you want to do is basically take the tip of your head go I'll just use this as an example so picture this white tip as a heated tip what you want to do is you want to put the tip over the component lead that's sticking out of the board and you want to heat it so that it melts to the other side of the board and then you want to run the tip around in a circular motion so basically you're taking this little piece of wire here and you're moving it around a little bit and that allows you to vacuum around the lead in the plated through and that's why these other components just fall right out I notice a lot of people they just stick the heated tip on and hit the vacuum and then it'll take the tip off if you actually do a little bit of a circular motion there you can kind of look at the solder rule as a plated through-hole like this would be the circuit board here and this is either side and if this this is the lead sticking through all right so say this is the lead sticking through you want to put the tip over top of this and you want to move this around and the plated through hole like this in a circular motion and that'll allow you to vacuum around that lead and it'll help you to save a lot plated through holes so again give you an example here so say where and get this all over the focus here see we're gonna vacuum this one see by doing that you're allowing the vacuum to basically be pulled all the way around that pin so this one here doesn't have much of a lead sticking out but it's enough there you can see that this component just wants to pull right out of the board which it just did right over here using solder wick on a double sided circuit board really doesn't work too incredibly effective so it's basically for wicking of solder basically the area that the wick itself is touching so I've got a single sided circuit board here and I'll show you how this works now solder wick alone works alright if you add just a touch of flux to the solder wick it pretty much just supercharges it and makes this stuff work like crazy so there's a capacitor on the other side of the board here so what I'll do this just put the solder wick on here like so you got to remember that this dries the tip of your soldering iron out very quickly as well so you need to add solder right after you do this you can see this here you can see how quickly that worked pretty much pulled the solder right off that and we'll go over here and advance it just a little bit more and you can see that it's pretty much free at this point come on to this side just to make sure and now I'm going to add some solder to the tip of my iron here because it is bone-dry one thing to always keep in mind when you do use solder like so now what I'll do is go to the other side of the board here and grab this component which is this capacitor right here and it pretty much comes out as a bit of glue on the bottom of it but there you go and that's just how solder wick works removing surface mount components can be done in a bunch of different ways one of the ways is if you have heated tongs you can do that you can put them on either side here or if you have a desoldering tool and a soldiering iron handy you can just use them both at the same time so for example you just want to heat both sides up here so I'm gonna heat this side and this side hopefully I can keep this in focus with this over a bit so I'll heat this side up and this side up you can see that the component just comes right off just that easy now if you want to clean the pads up you'll notice that they're still still quite a bit of balling material on the pad there so what you want to do is just put a bit of re type flux on there and get your solder wick clean off a loss a little bit of solder wick here and just come in here like so get a bit of it on the wick the minute that you touch it it just basically cleans the pads right off you can see that those pads are perfectly flat now a little bit of our a flux on them still that can be cleaned up with whatever you want to clean it up with isopropyl alcohol acetone lacquer thinner whatever and you're ready to put on your new component again these parts here are a little bit easier these are 1206 part and they come off really easy you can do this with one single solder iron and you do is you just add a little bit of solder to one side like so and add a little bit to the other like so then go back and forth just like that pick it off there you go component missing then I can put your new component on there if you want so basically just go back and forth a few times and then take it off again you would clean this with some solder wick and it would become totally flat you could set your new component down right flat removing surface mount components can also be done using a hot-air tool I'll give you an example right now so I'll just turn this on pardon the noise so this is the tool right here really small tip compared to my finger how big that is warms up pretty quick so you just hold the component with a pair of tweezers like so [Music] just like that portray here stuck to the tweezers hold on a second there we go stuck to the tweezers probably the flux on the tweezers is doing that so there you go and there's the little surface-mount component it's just that easy to replace that and it's the same with larger I sees to it you pretty much just heat there I see like this with a larger nozzle and this hole I seal just come right off it could have been a lead spacing on this thing well okay let's do solder some point-to-point stuff using solder pulled so it's pretty effective using these things I'm just gonna angle this just a little bit better so I can get this with that so again charge it here and see that works pretty good takes a lot of the solder out of there now in the previous video I was talking about you know scoring the tip of your iron a lot of people have a tendency to see how it's wrapped around here by heating this and pressing on this and unwrapping it I'm guilty of that myself and yeah it does destroy tips so resist the temptation if you're working on point-to-point wiring to unwrap things with a hot soldering tip it's much better just to grab a an actual clipper or something like that something like this here so you can get this all in the shot you can see that enough solder has been removed so that you can actually just twist this and unwind it see that so much much easier and you don't destroy an expensive tip doing that so again I'm guilty of it myself so I'll just press that down to the side there so now we'll do is we'll take the hakko and we'll come in here and do solder this with the hakko see how that orders I can see how nicely that works almost no comparison and we'll take this a smaller blue one here I'll just clip this wire this over like this so you can see the pins so this is this smaller blue one here try this on some point-to-point stuff and as you can see not very much suction car so reload it again and try it again see it is working it's just a little bit slower so if you were you know given the choice to choose between the two definitely and let's try some solder wick Oh let's get something that doesn't have a whole lot of solder on it the solder wick absorbs this stuff really quick and it just you'll use a huge chunk of solder wick trying to take solder off of something like this so I'll add a little bit of our a flux to the wick wick here again and get this down in here so you have to press the soldiering iron on top of the wick and as you can see you should be doing this in a well-ventilated area you can see how much that just absorbed right you use large amounts of wick by doing it like this and I use a little bit more so you can see it did a nice job took all of the stuff off of there as well just get this header into the shot there so you can see that did not a bad job so all in all ons point to point it's much much easier to you know get good results right because you know you have big areas and they're kinda isolated from things so this is OK for point to point definitely this all the pulp works well and of course and you can definitely tell that this guy here is pretty much a winner of all situations so there have it thanks for stopping by the lab today hope you enjoyed this video involving all these soldiering tools and tips and techniques if you did you can let me know by giving me a big thumbs up and hang around there'll be more videos like this coming in the near future we'll be talking about vacuum tube electronics solid-state electronics will be doing tear downs and modifications as well if you're interested in taking your electronics knowledge to the next level you might want to check out my ongoing electronics course on patreon so I'll put the link just below this video in the description and I'll also pin the link at the top of the post so just click on one of those links and it should bring you right there if you go there check out the community section there's lots of people sharing their projects there as well alright until next time take care bye for now you

Channel: Mr Carlson's Lab

Views: 298,710

Rating: 4.9102011 out of 5

Keywords: Desolder components, unsolder components, remove electronic parts, remove from circuit, test components, learn to desolder, learn to solder, Hakko tool, weller tool, pace tool, good desoldering tool, tool comparison

Id: HZLQzBOOQbw

Length: 40min 8sec (2408 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 24 2017