How to Connect a Bathroom Sink Drain

hi guys today's video we're gonna be replumb the Savannah tea sink there's a few code violations underneath which I'll bring in a little bit closer to explain and then also we're replacing the mechana forties pop up as well this one doesn't necessarily have to be replaced but just in case you're starting from scratch let's go through the complete walkthrough so let's get started loosen off all the union connections on this sink to remove the trap and piping I'll be using a set of adjustable pliers to remove the pop-up and drain assembly and a plastic tubing cutter to cut out the remainder of the piping the cold violation is having more than one pipe diameter drop in slope between the trap and vent connection I'll explain more about this later in the video [Laughter] [Music] clean up the old drain opening from any grime silicone or plumber's putty to assemble your new pop-up drain start with applying teflon tape to the top portion of the drain body and a small bead of plumbers putty around the drain flange pass the drain body up through the drain opening and thread on the flange hand tight only the threaded section here it can be a very common place fairly applying some teflon tape to the highest point we'll fill the gaps of the threads and reduce the chance of a leaf tighten down the nut to secure the drain body in place hand tight first and the remainder with an adjustable pliers make sure that the opening for the pivot rod is facing straight to the back of the cabinet as you're tightening down the drain body the plumber's putty will squeeze out around the flange but can be easily cleaned up next is dropping in the stopper make sure the bottom part of the stopper with the hole in it is facing straight back towards the cabinet the pivot rod passes through this hole and controls the upward and downward motion of the stopper tighten the pivot rod not only by hand if you're unable to remove the stopper you'll know that it's installed correctly pass the lift rod through the back of the faucet underneath pass the lift rod through the clevis or adjustment linkage squeeze the spring clip together and connect the adjustment linkage to the pivot rod with the linkage in between the clip the hole that its installed on is based on the length of the linkages but in most cases is gonna work best on the second or third lowest hole align all the linkages to operate smoothly the last step is tightening the clever screw to the lift rod I personally do this with the pop-up in the fully open position and slightly raise the lift rod before tightening the screw this makes it easier to get your fingers under the lift rod to operate the pop-up all right so I threw this together so we have a better understanding what's going on in the wall let's just start from the top here so we have it this is gonna be where your tail piece ties in at the bottom of the sink there's an inch and a quarter to inch and a half trap adapter this is your riser which goes into a inch and a half Union p-trap that remember this is designed to hold water so the sewer gas and come back up through the sink the connection between the p-trap and the bed is called the trapper arm and usually if an inspections gonna fail it's gonna be in this section this has a minimum and maximum length the minimum length the trapper iron can be is two pipe diameters engine a pipe times two is three inches so this section between the trap and the vent has to be a minimum of three inches and this helps stop siphoning out the trap seal the maximum drop this trapper I'm gonna have is one pipe diameter since this is inch and a piping the maximum slope or drop you can have is inch and a half quarter inch per foot is standard slope for inch and a half two inch and 3 inch drainage so the maximum length you could run this is 6 feet at quarter inch per foot slope a great way to remember this is you take your pipe diameter times by two and then times by two again so engine a pipe times by two is three times by two is six six feet is the maximum length you can run this that quarter inch four foot two inches the same thing so two times two is four times two is eight eight feets the maximum length you can run a quarter inch per foot for two-inch pipe quarter inch per foot slope is roughly when the bubble on the level just touches the line the reason for not having more than one pipe diameter drop is that the drainage one of access to the air so for whatever reason if you were to install your drain like this this would be greater than one pipe diameter drop between the p-trap and the vent this line where the drainage is one of access here and it'll drain extremely slowly but it also could potentially siphon out the trap seal here's an example of the importance of a properly vented drainage system venting is just as important as the drain as it costs low drainage and drains that are more prone to blockages cutting the ABS or PVC can be done with a plastic hand saw hacksaw or plastic tubing cutters is important that the cut is straight so that the tubing has a maximum amount of contact with the fitting using a tubing cutter as shown will ensure an accurate straight cut no mass using the correct cement is very important this is ABS tubing so ABS cement should be used PVC and PVC - ABS connections have different cements apply a thin even coating to any part of the fitting and tubing which make contact with each other push together and turn slightly to ensure complete coverage the cure time will depend on the cement temperature and humidity holding the fittings together for two to three seconds should be sufficient wipe away any excess cement the first step I take in starting the drain is figuring out the height this would be as the height is some adjustment because the trap adapter can move up and down on the tailpiece get your rough height measurement as shown with the trap adapter roughly halfway between the tailpiece this will give you the most flexibility and height adjustment this is the part where most people will struggle because the p-trap will most likely not line up with the drain coming from the wall in the fortunate scenario that it does line up adjust the angle the p-trap to line up with the drain and use a coupling on the wall side measure your trap iron piece cut in connect in the scenario where it doesn't line up a forty-five fitting will be needed mine is just enough off that I can use a street 45 which is a male by female fitting instead of a standard female by female or hub by hub fitting if your drain is far enough away you'll have to use a hub I have 45 with a piece of pipe in between don't feel bad about drive fitting your connections before gluing to get your angles right the final connection should be tightening your union Pietra hand tight is usually sufficient for the union pea trap and trap adapter well guys thanks for watching and like always at this video helped you liking commenting subscribing is always greatly appreciated till next time

Channel: Pros DIY

Views: 620,411

Keywords: connect a bathroom sink, connect a bathroom sink drain, how to connect a bathroom sink, how to connect a bathroom sink drain, installing a bathroom sink, installing a vanity, connecting a vanity, installing a bathroom sink drain, sink, drain, drainage, vanity, connect, installing, connecting, install, how to, diy, plumbing, plumber, prosdiy, bathroom sink installation, how to install a sink drain, how to install a sink, how to plumb a sink, connect a p-trap, how to connect a p-trap

Id: zYfAajX5-7g

Length: 10min 32sec (632 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 15 2020