How To Change The Gears On Bicycle. Correct Shifting + SAVING POWER. SickBiker Tips.

I can do the the gearchange under load you can hear that here is your gears and sprocket expert Ryback and today we talk about gears and sprockets I'm going to show you right now how should we use the drivetrain on both rode bikes and mountain bikes by changing the gears properly and will take into account two main factors number one the drive trains wear or lifetime and number two may be even more important one our comfort and performance at the end of this episode I'm showing you one thing that many advanced cyclists just completely miss out and waste their energy by doing it wrong so first off beginner stuff don't worry about the chain looking like that here because I'm going to show you something in the second it's for a reason this is the draftin we have double crank set in the front so two different chain rings and 11 sprockets on the cassette so the bikes gives us a wide ratio of gear of gears and those advices will be applicable both to double chain rings and triple chain so all mountain bikes road bikes are just covered here if you have just one chain ring here it makes your job so much easier but also the lifetime of your of your direction will be shorter okay so we have here higher gears so more speed and the harder one this one the little one in the front is slower gear so low gear and here in the rear same low gears high gears right high speed low speed but a lot of power here now in order to change the gears proper properly we have to think about the chain line our chain namely how the chain is is working and is bending we want to keep the line of the chain as straight as possible because when we really criss cross our chain it bends in many ways and it wears down so much quicker and also we are losing power I'm going to show you that at the end now this is the process of changing the gears as you can see I already started changing the gears on this bike because the rear derailleur already pushed the chain two or three sprockets up but here you can see that the chain is still on the higher sprockets so your chain really works a lot when we change the gear and also you can see that we already have transmission on maybe one two I would say one two three teeth but this here don't have transmission we cannot transfer our power through these links here so it is important not to use the drivetrain our or change the gears under a lot of load now important fact we are we are being told that very often don't change the gifts under load but in practice in the real world we do it and we do it a lot but if we can we're going to save our direction and that's what I'm going to show you in a second now if we a crisscross the chain a lot how many in how many places is it bends it has to be let's say it will be on the lower sprockets here and hire here so it has to be it has to lie exactly on the sprocket here then it will bend to the outside going to the highest sprocket here and then it has to bend once more to the inside in order to lie down on the sprocket right here and then it bends two times more down there and it bends also on the on the rear derailleur so it makes all the links here I working harder because it there is so much more friction between all those links now how do we change those gears I'm going to show you right now on the turbo trainer Here I am on the bike super short reminder this is the highest gear and this is the lowest gear so here I have a lot of power but I can write very very slowly so this is for obvious and now chain line chain an is super important here what would you say is the perfect chain line on my smallest gear smallest sprocket in the front so when I'm on the smallest chain ring on my crank set would you say this one is perfect probably this one maybe the camera isn't like perfectly a parallel to to the bike but I would say this one looks good right so this is the perfect setup for my for my gearing here on the smaller chain in the front because the chain is going straight I'm saving my sprockets and I'm saving power as well in the minute about it more now we go to the largest chain ring in the front now you can see that the chain is bending once again so we are going down the cassette to the highest gear higher gears would you say this one of this one probably this one which is the what eight eight nine ten eleven No seven so probably two by seven that's my perfect line of the chain now if I know it I know how to how should i how should I be changing my gears so first off trying to not to do it under lock let's say I'm on the highest gear right now okay and I'm going to slow down or this some small here I can do the the gear change under load you can hear that or I can spin out my legs bit more before I change the gear and then lift my legs or the power from the transfer from the drivetrain while I'm changing the gear now it's so much more quiet right also if going down if I'm pushing hard or we hear that ok so just before I change the gears I take what a little a little of flowed from my drivetrain and it's working fine now the perfect moon gearing if you're driving the car you don't want to be changing from second gear into fifth gear because you won't have any acceleration on your head on our engine it wouldn't be good for your engine as well so let's start with the highest gear or maybe the lowest will be buried all right I'm going really really slow I'm accelerating right now so 1 2 1 3 1 4 1 5 the channel is still quite quite good 1/6 let's say I go just the 2 1 7 and now I want to change my gear and now look what will happen when I'm changing in the front to the higher gear there is so much difference in the cadence my cadence went down quite a bit so if you want to make a smooth gear change look what I'm doing Simon Simon simultaneously sorry ok if you've noticed I'm changing the gears simultaneously going from the smallest chainring in the front to the higher one and in the rear I'm going up two sprockets on the cassette so I'll be changing gears here and also the chain ring in the front so let's look at about it once more at it this is how I feel the gear change is smooth and this is also the system that most of the electronical groups at it would give you if you change the gear on the crank set it would also automatically both on road and mountain by groups that change the gears for you okay so I'm changing the gear then going to the highest gear okay I'm going really fast let's say some hilly terrain starts begins I'm going maybe up to here let's say I'm going to 2 by 4 to 4 and now when I'm only shifting in the front once again big change in my gearing ratio so I'm gonna shift down the cassette also just by stru sprockets and one sprocket in the front great this works perfect so this is what we should just carry in our mind when changing the gears and now how far I I don't want to get with just one chain ring in the front if you see now this is really bad this is super bad for my for my drivetrain and we would never want to go that that long so I would say maybe up to seventh gear down the cassette and then I'm changing the gears like that and I feel fine also with my with my biggest chain ring in the front I would say the fourth one and not more fourth one and then two sprockets down the cassette and one on the chain in the front I think this is the the perfect setup you just learn that and of course when you are mountain bikers maybe and you go up the steep climb sometimes you just have to push the gear under load here you can always try to lift some hope from the director when you when you change the gear but in the racing tradition when you're super tight or it's super steep you can do it and you know doing it from time to time will not ruin your drivetrain but if you just can change the gears very smoothly without the load that would be the best thing for you one thing many advanced cyclists do wrong in my opinion is riding the big gear in the front and we are going up the hill so changing into lower gear in the rear into lower in the rear and you don't feel like really using the small one in the front because it just looks silly so you you go up the cassette by doing this can you hit the drive train I mean you can always trim the the front derailleur here so that it won't be rubbing against the chain but it is super luck super loud and you can see the chain wants to go down and here is the method that many advanced act is just use and they lose power because the drivetrain here really now produces so much friction that we lose power now ceramic speed for example they do those pulleys and and change they say you can save up to 16 watts by having really smoothly working drivetrain maybe that's the maximum you can you can actually save but here you really lose a couple of watts comparing to let's say this gear the chain here is working quite nice I'm happy with this so just bear this in mind ok the chain on is important changing the gears smoothly so if you change the gear on the crank set you can simultaneously change those on the sprocket and just be aware that if you do it simultaneously under super load you can lose the transfer for a second otherwise you always try to do it like that yes thanks for watching give me in the comments some of your suggestions on how would you improve changing the gears on different systems thanks for watching bye bye [Music] you

Channel: SickBiker

Views: 2,923,048

Keywords: cycling, radsport, fahrrad, ciclisma, bicicleta, cycling tips, training, gear, shifting, How to, changing gears, How to change gears, bike gears, proper shifting, drivetrain, beginners, 101, Tutorial, tips, tricks, hacks, derailleur, shifters, chain, Chainring Line, Bicycle gears, sickbiker, gear change, guide, shift

Id: ibyJevtOgxc

Length: 13min 37sec (817 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 01 2016