Hello everyone, my name is Julius and welcome to my channel in this video I'm going to use Bahasa Indonesia so make sure you've turn on youtube translation or subtitle we'll going to build... we'll going to build... F-4 Phantom This is F-4 Phantom An American jet fighter in Vietnam war In this project I will share some new technique I coated the foam with parchment paper This is the parchment paper I don't know what it's called in abroad We called it "kertas minyak" (oily paper) or bread paper This canopy was not vacuum formed It was not This canopy was made with segmented parts in such a way to looked like a smooth canopy It's just 2D segmented mica plastic parts One of the advantages by using parchment paper It's lighter in my observation if compare by using packing tape lighter and... the finished paint is good looking with solid color smooth surface I'm pretty satisfied with the result This plane will able to glide at low speed the way I like it fly, scale looked and not too fast I hope it can fly Okay let's start our project After downloaded the plans are printed in HVS paper in A4 size sharpen your cutting knife first with sandpaper or sharpening stone to maintain neat and easy cuts cut dotted lines in left, right, top and down paper small amount plans preparation is easier to manage according to part's number. cut the plans on the solid lines, use metal ruler to guide the cut Combine all parts with small adhesive tape This is bottom wing part plan cut a hole for landing gear placement then cut the circle line for wheel hole tips for an easy and neat circular cutting is to move the plan in circular motion instead of moving your knife all plans for building wing are already cut This one is bottom part plan top parts root chord, a wing former (airfoil) and 2 spars Let's start building the wing the main material is 5mm depron/ polyfoam I bought it for 55,000 Rupiah (4 US dollars) 2x1 meters (6.5 x 3.3 feet) size foam sheet On store named Kurnia Sablon on Ciputat Tangerang (location) we only need 1 foam sheet for this plane How to read the plans First line is a name for that part 2nd line is how many part that needed to be cut it's stated : 2X mirrored, meaning you should cut 2 part for left and right the last line is the material for that part It's wrote 5mm Polyfoam (Depron) Trace the plans with ballpoint pen I use a straight pin to stick the plan when tracing trace the opposite side too trace top part of wing plan also trace the opposite side continue to trace both wing formers and 4 spars cut traced plans with sharpened cutting knife for neat and easier cut don't cut holes on wing or other parts before it's bended because holes can weaken a foam when on bending step. mark spar positions with plans as a guide Mark with lines for spar positions on the inward side on bottom wing part use heatgun and metal rod / pipe to bend the foam heat the outside surface of the bottom wing set the heatgun temperature so it will not melt the foam or make it brittle always move the foam so it will not melt or brittle heat the leading edge surface first when it's still warm press and stroke the foam against metal rod with your hand while add light pressure to bend it bend it slowly not too rush unless it will break Better to bend and heat it slowly than to rush it and break the foam. continue bending on trailing edge slowly and feel it if the foam harden then heat it again the part already look curved do the same for the opposite part sand the leading edge and trailing edge on bottom part of the wing glue the wing former on wing root Mark the landing gear holes on the inside bottom wing part by using plan as guide this mark will be useful for later guidance for adding reinforcements for the landing gear base glue front and rear spar on the wing sand the spar root to fit the wing former add reinforcements around landing gear hole with strips of 5mm foam stack foams in some places to fill the empty gap above Before glueing the top wing part check if everything fit correctly apply hot glue on bottom wing part inside leading edge to attaching top wing part attach top wing part quickly and hold both wing and wait until the glue is cold and harden Briefly apply glue on both spars airfoil former and finally the trailing edge before closing the wing do all of that in one minute or less so the glue will not harden before closing the wing and then quickly close the wing and hold them on position in no less than 30 seconds until glue is harden trace aileron position with pen trace in bottom and top side close the gap after aileron was cut with strip foam cut outer side of the aileron approx. 2mm for smooth aileron movement also cut bottom part of the aileron approx. 7mm and then sand aileron base use foam strip to prop aileron gap sand leading and trailing edges on the wing and ailerons so there are no sharp edges sand all edges until curved Now we'll going to build the outer wing part do the same way bend the foam first sand the leading and trailing edges on the bottom part mark spar position according the plan cut foam spar 1 cm width then glue spar on the wing close wing with the top part cut the excess spar and then sand LE and TE until all edges are curved here we're going to make a guidance tool for measuring wing hedral angle attach the outer wing with guidance tool to fix the hedral angle sand the outer wing base until it formed an angled side so it will fit the main wing sand it until it fit with no or less gap apply glue and attach to the main wing hold it in 30 sec or more until glue is harden Now we're going to close the wingtip gap sand the wingtip flat then close with a fit sheet of foam finally cut the excess foam and sand it until smooth curved all parts are set ready for covering Now we're going to build vertical stabilizer both parts already bended attach ice cream stick on its place glue both fin parts together and then sand all sides except the base until it curved cut the rudder sand front and rear edges until it curved again, cut top edges 2mm wide mark spar positions according to plans on horizontal stabilizer use aluminum tube or bamboo chopstick as hard spars glue them on bottom part of hor stab and then close both parts together as usual, sand all edges except the base until all edges are curved We have arrived on building fuselage step mark all formers position according to plans on the inside wall make sure all parts are leveled, straight and not twisted This step is the hardest part except the landing gear now we're going to shape the back/spine of the plane heat the foam and rub it against a metal rod to bend it, one step at a time because the part needed a lot of bending it needs to combine rubbing on a rod and heat and bending on the heat gun. just like on the video continue doing combination of technique until foam more curved do that bit by bit don't rush it, be patient if you can't do this you can split the part into 3 segments. the longer the material, the harder to bend, shorter will be easier it need about 15 minutes just to bend this part alone attach the back part to the fuselage glue a bit on front side first and wrap around the former wait for the glue to set in 30 sec or more and hold it still Once glue is set glue a bit again on the opposite side and then hold it still until the glue is harden continue all that side to side until it finish It is very important to hold part still when glueing no less than 30 sec the common mistake is impatient when holding still part you can use a clock / stopwatch to measure time correctly finally close it with the front former Okay now we're going to build the nose section of the plane don't cut this part yet you can cut it when the part is bend we're going to build the front section of the plane glue the rear edge first then both side edges when this part already assembled you can cut the hole attach former for shaping the nose through the cockpit cavity and push it forward and then glue it stack foams to form a block to be attached on the nose as a nose cone cut and shape the foam block to shape a cone sand it with water to achieve a smooth result Now we're going to remove the excess glue on each joints heat a knife on a heat gun and then apply to the excess glue and remove it from the surface In this step we're going to build side part of the fuselage start from jet intake to the exhaust nozzle on the rear I forgot to record when attaching those formers mark with lines for guiding side part placement make holes on the side wall below the marked line to reduce weight make holes with hot solder I have 2 solders one for normal soldering and one more for make holes on foam don't mix the 2 of them it will damaged the normal solder leave the last one, it does't need a hole. because it will need more strength. mark left and right part to make it simmetrical now we're going to patch the gap between fuselage and wing use plan for making a patch this is what it's looked like after it patched the gap is filled do the same work for other gaps cut or sand all excess parts and make it flat continue to make exhaust nozzles now we're going to assembly the tail section make holes on back former to make ways for motor cables on the updates plans I made these parts easier to assembly at this point we have to stop for preparing horizontal stabilizers Now we're going to prepare the hor stab before attaching to the fuselage this stabs already covered with parchment paper cut elevators according to plans Attach hor stab to the fuselage with its spar glued on to the previous plywood former cut foam in pieces and glue to the former as reinforcement mark and make holes for fin spars locations and add reinforcement on the former cut fin spar as needed Okay. all parts are assembled the next step is covering with parchment paper Now, we're going to cover the wing with parchment paper sand all the wing surfaces first with smooth sand paper cut paper bigger than the wing approx. 5 cm in all directions apply glue in some places with dilluted PVA glue with water and spread evenly with water soaked brushed and then, soak lightly the parchment paper with water and then place it on top the wing in this video I start working on the bottom side lately I found out it will be better result if I start working from the top side it will be neater spread paper evenly with wet brush if needed you can lift the paper again and re apply it with wet brush until it flat with no wrinkles or air bubbles move it to a dry place and let it dry on a room temperature approx. over night or 6 hours don't dry in the sun do the same way to the opposite wing Okay, paper cover on bottom wing side already dried the result is neat and tight. cut the excess paper continue to cover the top side Okay. both wings already coated we're going to merge the together fill with glue if there are gaps on joint we're going to make hinges for ailerons apply paper tape on top and bottom side of mica plastic cut it in pieces and fold it as a hinge make slits on ailerons and wing and then insert the hinge with applied PVA glue do the same for other control surfaces now. we're going to cover the fuselage start with nose section for the nose section parchment paper need to be cut in stripes 1 - 5 cm width as needed I paint it with Diton spray paint executive grey color spray it thin, two times is enough paint the bottom wing part with Diton white Elevators with Diton silver mask with paper tape and paint it black aileron with Diton white also rudder with white exhaust nozzle with Diton dark grey Wingtip Diton black Detail decal for back of the plane with Diton dark grey masking before detail paint on tail section paint with Diton silver it's time to apply decal These are solid and transparent vinyl stickers these stickers printed on Digital Printing shop in A3 size it cost 14,000 Rupiah (1 US Dollars) each This decal sticker file also can be downloaded with the plans I use 3mm plywood for the landing gear base plate I cut it with plywood saw for landing gear mechanism I use 2.5 mm hardboard cut all parts according to plans with cutting knife it needs to be patient to cut this hardboard for landing gear strut I use motorcycle wheel spoke with approx. 3mm diameter assembly it with other parts with CA glue use gas mask in ventilated room when working with this CA glue because this CA glue vapor is dangerous if inhaled or vapor your eye coat all surface with CA the result will be hard as hard plastic now I'm building the base for housing the landing gear strut hinge measure landing gear strut according to plans and trimmed it with metal saw Use excess strut for a shaft on landing gear strut hinge mark with pen for stopper location glue stopper with CA glue add more hardboard to reinforce stopper measure hook location on LG strut use sandpaper to make rough surface on strut so CA glue can bond strongly coil yarn on strut on hook will be place so the hook kan bond strongly with LG strut attach and glue the hook on LG strut coil more yarn to reinforce bonding apply drops of CA glue on the coiled yarn because strut from motorcycle is very hard to bend, I use bicycle wheel spoke as shaft for wheels sand to make rough surface on lower part of LG strut coil the yarn again to attach wheel shaft to LG strut and then drop CA glue on that coiled yarn use small rubber band to pull LG strut to always open position Use a piece of small wheel spoke as a lock/ trigger now I'm making a kind if hinge so the rod can be lever as a release trigger if pulled by a string add rubber band on the end of the rod and make it always pull so the rod will stay on position after pulled by a string glue the rubber band so it will always pull the rod stretch it mildly I'm testing the LG mechanism use a piece of bicycle wheel spoke as a lock for LG strut when it opened so it will not fold back again, unless the lock is lifted as the trigger rod I use rubber band to pull the lock continue to make front LG the front LG looks smaller than main LG base plate coil some yarn on root shaft as a stopper so the wheel will not rubbing the strut paint white all LG with spray paint make another stopper in the end of the wheel shaft trim the wheel shaft with metal saw all LG ready to be installed We're going to install LGs make a hole for LG on the wing and try to fit the LG also make hole for wheel and also make a hole so string for pulling trigger can get through check all mechanism before glueing the LG to the wing make a hole in the center of the wing to install a trigger servo I use cheap 9 gram blue tower prop servo attach longer cable so it can reach to cockpit insert trigger string to a servo arm and glue it (tie it) make sure if servo in operation it will pull the trigger correctly move servo cable on top of the wing make hole on front former with solder make a hole for LG under its nose and also hole for wheel when it folded make sure all mechanism including trigger are not obstructed cut foam into band like pieces and glue them around LG cavity as reinforcements Okay all LG already installed next step will be testing and detailing I added a small straw for trigger string guide. also a wire hook so the string can be detach when the wing detached from the fuselage add details on LG (LG door) We're going to make a canopy with 0.3 mm mica plastic as its material this is time we're not going to use vacuum forming just joining some mica cut plans and stick it on top of mica with paper tape then cut mica with scissors We use 2.5 mm black cable as a list so mica can be attach on the fuselage use CA glue to attach cable glue cable to follow the plans and cut the excess cable You can use UHU glue or epoxy glue to attach canopy to fuselage for better result and easier work. but here, I use hot glue (not recommended) ignore glue mess in the canopy base, as we will cover it up and it will look neater paint a paper tape and cut it to cover the glue mess Use the same way with grey paint to make a window list on a windshield cut foam the same size as cockpit cavity as a base for attaching plastic canopy sand all side edges to become an angled sides coat the base with PVA glue for painting attach first segment of mica plastic glue it one side at a time glue mica plastic a bit forward approx 3mm so the canopy can be inserted inside the windshield and then glue next segment use small selotape to join both segments attach the final segment to form the canopy cut and paint the end of the canopy that will be attached to the fuselage attach 2D pilot picture inside the canopy. an then picture of radar officer attach front list on the windshield attach canopy separator Finally add 1 cm black list on the base of the canopy and apply decals The aircraft is ready for LG use 0.5 mm mica/ plastic 4x10 cm size glue it on top and bottom wing attach detail part under the tail attach missile pylons apply final detail decal Sidewinders were made with HVS paper and card attach 2 sheet of foams to reinforce cockpit side walls make hole and attach servo make 2 holes on top of the wing to make way out for aileron servo cables attach aileron servos in opposite direction I use krustin terminal as a stopper make a bigger hole on servo arms so krustin can be inserted make a Z bending on pushrod I use wire from wasted fiber optic cable as pushrod wire make a hole on the right side on the tail for inserting pushrod hose I use stack of wasted small straws to be a pushrod straw Insert pushrod hose so it will come out on the back attach horn on the rudder and insert pushrod into the hose add krustin as stopper attach pushrod on servo arm first and then make a base for servo platform inside the back / spine of the plane glue the rudder servo in place add extended cable to reach cockpit I'm ran out of horn, so I made it with hardboard and coat it with CA glue make 2 holes under the tail to insert elevator pushrod hoses combine 2 pushrod into one output with coil of yarn + CA glue attach elevator servo and connect it with pushrod I use cables from inside residential electricity cable for connecting ESC to motor insert cable one by one from the end of the tail make motor mount from plywood or hardwood + CA glue place motor mount with a bit tilt up screw motor on motor mount I use Turnigy 2830 1000kv brushless motor solder all 3 cables check motor rotation before insulating cable connections be careful not to connect one of the cable into another Place a battery tray with 2 pieces of foam and velcro glued on top of it on the nose section all the way up front I use neodynum magnet for canopy locking system hello everyone this morning we're going to maiden this plane I hope it can fly CG are already marked with screws approx. 25.6 cm from this joint to balance the plane on the CG this plane needs a ballast, it's a single AA battery on its nose. and this plane use 3S Lipo battery 2200mah is it balanced yet? yup how's the nose, is it balanced ? yes in theory it can fly, but we'll see the power of its motor woah great! woah it flies succeed, yoohoo is it 50% throttle? full it's cool it's a bit upward tendecy I forgot what should I do to trim? up? yes, up trim it's slow ya, very slow nice it's very easy to turn is it? it's pretty good for slow flyer glider wingloading oh it's trainer not glider going for landing? yes, is it collapse? (LG) yup collapse because of that pool of loose dirt both LG collapsed It's because I glue the LG on top a paper, I should glue them straight to its foam we need to repair this but it quite successful, it still fly after 15 minutes repair we will try to close the LG there's a lock here I lift the lock and the LG can be closed but when it opens it can't be moved because of the lock we open the lock pull the trigger string oh no the missiles are crooked what is it? the missile ah that's not visible maybe I should use more powerful motor or can you can use bigger prop? yup 10 inch prop LG is jammed I use li-ion battery is it? yes its more powerful in 20 Ampere all my lipos are wasted too high it cannot do it tell me if you want to down your LG it's up to you enjoy it while you can and trim the control don't this is ok is it stuck? only one the front LG wont open yes it already open landing ya? not yet? okay one more pass brave enough to low pass? which way? just low pass so I can capture with the trees it's all cloud everywhere oh it's obstructed its wheel came out again Okay this time for review of our project F-4 Phantom I can say yesterday maiden flight was a success because it can fly as I hope and pretty slow as I expected the wingloading is sufficient the handling is okay, stable but it was unable to roll maybe because it's not fast enough it's not fast enough so I mean because its motor is not strong enough yesterday I use Turnigy 2830 1000kv 9x4x3 prop it was slow I tried to change it with 10x5 it gave more kick on take off but still slow up there so Actually this plane can be cooler if using more powerful motor or more S on the battery I use 3S, I should use 4S minimum or 6S it will be awesome if using 6S and then the failed one is the LG 50% failed on first flight the first landing was not successful it's all collapsed it all came out from the wing it's because I glue all main LG to paper that coated the foam. I should glue it straight on the foam I should remove the paper with cutter knife peel it up the paper and then glue LG straight to the foam it will be stronger because of that accident the problem spread all the triggers have trouble, it's all stuck on second flight as we can see on the video all LG were stuck the left one already open but not the right LG I have to on and off the gear switch multiple times until it all came down but unfortunately the landing is not good it can landed safely but hit the bush because ran out of runway okay that's it its motor already stripped down and its ESC now I hang this plane up there I put its motor to this plane This is our next project so stay tuned on this channel so you will receive update when this video is released okay, see you again on the next video
