- Folks we're working on-site
in a customer's home today. I'm building brand new
countertops out of sheets of wood using simple hand tools. I'm gonna show you how to
build and pour on-site, saving you 10 times your
time and money versus other big-box store countertop options. (upbeat music) You can do this to renew the
countertops in your space. Come along with me, I'm
gonna show you how to do it step by step. Stay tuned and enjoy the video. [Announcers] Oh, you've got this! - All right guys, we're on-site. Day number one. The first thing you need
to do when working on-site is properly prep your project. Step one, we're gonna
cover the floor completely 'cause we're gonna pour these inside. The kitchen's pinned in between walls. What that means is it would
make for a difficult install bringing in a giant U shape
that fits in between these walls with uppers. So in this case, whenever
I'm pinned in between walls and have uppers to fight my
install, I'm gonna choose to pour on-site. Prepping your project for an on-site pour is not that difficult. A few keys to success. Cover that floor with a nice
ram board style material. It's a rolled up floor
protector designed to not allow liquids to penetrate through it. Don't just use a canvas drop
cloth, that is not enough protection. My customer has just repaired
their older cabinets, they're looking quite nice. We're gonna cover those
right before pouring. So step one, we're covering that floor. Then we're building these
tops out of sheets of wood on-site with simple hand tools. All right, we'll learn
how to prep right now. Steps are simple, let's do it. (scrapping sound) These are brand new laminate
floors and I'm not gonna be the contractor that messes them up. This ram board edge tape
is perfect for going on delicate surfaces like laminate. It won't stick too much
and damage those floors pulling it up. The ram board brown tape on
the other hand, let me grab it. Orange ram board tape is
designed for the perimeter. Anywhere touching a finished
surface, this cheaper stuff, the regular ram board tape is
designed to tie the two sheets together making a perfect
waterproof system. No epoxy or anything
spilled is gonna touch your customer's floor. (scrapping sound) (upbeat music) It's good practice to draw up
the kitchen in a bird's-eye view, like you're looking
right down at all the pieces you're making. I'm gonna draw up all the
pieces I'm gonna create. 'Cause like this guy and
this guy, I can just build with measurements. Drawing up the kitchen
does a couple things. It gives you the exact
square footage so you know just how much epoxy to mix up. And we're also gonna take
those measurements and build a lot of these pieces right
off those measurements. When you're pinned in
walls and you're doing tile backsplash, that's when you
have to be most precise. If you're pinned in between
walls and you're throwing up your own epoxy made backsplash,
you have a little bit of wiggle room. So I'm gonna measure out this kitchen, give myself a little bit of wiggle room, then go build these tops outside. So, we got. Boom! Wall, wall, wall, oven. X will be the edge. A fridge. And then we have that piece here. I'll draw it here. And then we have a little wall cap. Okay, let's go measure it up. We first measure this. We'll just say 70. And we're gonna add an inch and a half. We're gonna go to 71 and a half. 16, 16, perfect. Rather than get out my
template material and template this project, I'm gonna
make it a hair big, I'm gonna make it a quarter inch big. And then I'm gonna put the
piece up here and scribe, I'll teach you how to scribe
that piece nice and tight to the wall. Okay, here's my wall cap. The customer didn't wanna extend
this, they're not gonna sit at this little bar. It's just a wall cap. So I'm gonna give it standard
overhang on each side. I'm gonna give it what we call a dog ear. So I'm gonna give it an inch
and a half, a little leg that kicks over here and it
trims the piece perfectly. So as you look into it,
it'll be nice and trimmed to look like that. I'll add three inches
to the length of this, which will be an inch
and a half on each side. 74 and three quarters. Four and a half plus three. Okay, that piece is done. Now let's measure the big boy. 117 and a half, now that's
a tight measurement. I'll say 117 and a quarter. This job is gonna need a seam. So since we're pouring
on-site, I'm gonna do it before I pour epoxy. So you're gonna walk into this
kitchen and you'll never see that I had to glue two
pieces of wood together. That's a huge benefit
with working with epoxy. Okay, we have an oven that sits here. It's back there on the corner, but I marked how far they
wanted grow this piece. So I got my little mark there. We're gonna call that 29. The oven is 25 and three quarters. Now let's figure out where
we're gonna go put the seam. I'm just gonna put the
seam right on the support. Yap, that'll work. This is the piece we're gonna cut now. That's piece one. Now I have backsplash so I have
a little bit of wiggle room which is really nice. So the backsplash is gonna
be three quarters of an inch thick plus the epoxy. So really I could have
a half of an inch gap and my backsplash will sit
down and still cover that, you'll never know. That was a trick we
had to do with granite. And sometimes we would have,
when we have to do a seam, we set the piece in, we
cut away the sheetrock, the thickness of the granite
slab, peel the sheetrock out. Then we can move that
sheetrock a half of an inch, use it with a half an inch
sheetrock into the wall just so we could bring this
big, old, heavy, bad boy in without chipping out the seam. That's a pro tip. If you're pinned in walls like
that in your epoxy kitchen and you have to do a seam,
you pour this off-site. Bring the first piece in,
cut the sheetrock out, get it out of there,
then you slide it away. Now this one has a little more
wiggle room to install it. But you also don't have to
worry about epoxy shattering like you do granite. So don't stress, you can
flex that bad boy right in. We'll draw up this little fella. I'm making two little Ls
and two straight pieces. Easy-peasy. This is piece two. There's my kitchen pieces. One, two, we'll call this
three and this one four. Now let's figure out the square footage. So I just, I'm making this
into two pieces so I'm figuring out the square footage
of each little chunk. 1000 divided by 144. 7.5 square feet. When you get your measurements in inches, so your length times width
in inches then divide by 144, that gives you your square footage. 71.5 times 16.25 divided by 144. 8 square feet. This is how you know how much to get paid. This is how much you know,
how much epoxy to mix up. 39.6, we'll say 40 square feet. Sweet, that's one, two gallon kit. Now we're gonna do backsplash
though, we can't forget about that. To determine how tall
to make your backsplash, which your standard
backsplash is four inches, but sometimes your plugs will determine. If your plug's in the way,
rather than notch around that plug, just shrink your
backsplash a little bit, it looks way cleaner
having a straight line rather than this. (indistinct sounds) No, thank you. So it looks like we're good here. We have plenty of room to
make our standard four inch backsplash. Plenty of room. This one, let's see. So we're gonna have three quarters up. Nope, we're gonna make this
a three inch backsplash just because my plate will
cover that and not interfere and we won't have to do
that little notch a rooskie. So this guy will have
three, that'll have four. Backsplash cut list. So these guys, my returns,
I'll cut a hair big and we then cut to perfect size
once that back is installed. Bingo wings. Now we'll figure out how much
square footage in backsplash. Not much backsplash square footage. We can probably squeeze that
all in the one, two gallon kit. I would say a little over 200 bucks. We're gonna coat this kitchen,
that's just an epoxy cost. So then I'll tell you
how much we spend on MDF. But really we're gonna flip this kitchen and they're gonna sell this
house for nice sweet profit in this area. They've already did comparables. They got this place for
practically nothing, held onto it, fixed it up. They're gonna invest a small
amount into this kitchen and that's gonna be the
showpiece walking in that's gonna sell this thing real quick. Hot market. Guys, check on this stuff in your area. There we go. We're at 47.6 square feet. Let's squeeze that into
one, two gallon kit of epoxy and turn these countertops into gold. They're gonna be sweet. The customer wants earth tone exotic pour, which is my specialty. Let's do this. But first things first, we
gotta cut up some countertops. It's a beautiful sunny, cold
winter morning here in Oregon so I'm gonna throw my sweatshirt. We're gonna go out under
cover and start cutting some countertops. So, my customer has a top mount sink. I'm gonna pour this first,
then cut out the sink after it's cured before I
apply the ultimate top coat. Then you won't have any
runs or you don't have to plastic off the sink basin
and worry about epoxy dripping in that cabinet. Cut that top mount sink out
after you pour the epoxy. If this was an undermount sink,
I definitely would have to plastic off that sink basin. I'm gonna apply waterproof
membrane to the bottom of the countertops. Where? I do that where the sink
is, and I do that where the dishwasher is. If you're uncomfortable
laying out your kitchen from your measurements,
grab some template material at our website, stonecoatcountertops.com. So if you're a little
bit nervous laying out your countertops via measurements, click the link right above me. That's gonna take you to our
five vanities in a single weekend. Mike shows you how to
use our template material to template that cabinet
so that fits nice and tight and perfect. We have some wiggle room today,
so I'm gonna lay this out using my measurements. It's a pretty simple process. You're gonna want a level. You're gonna want a square,
tape measure and a pencil. We'll lay this thing out. We'll use the saw guide to
cut it out nice and perfectly and a jigsaw to finish
up those 90 degree cuts. I'll rip some one inch
strips and add a drop edge to this project. Then it's almost time to
start playing with some epoxy. So I'm gonna lay out piece number one. We're going 93. (whirring sound) And now to 24. (upbeat music) 25 and three quarters. Backsplash. Backsplash. (upbeat music) Okay, I'm ready to cut it out. So this is piece one. I bet I can fit piece
two right next to it. I mean, excuse me, piece four
will fit this little wall cap. (scrapping sound) Okay, now this guy is
exed all the way around. You still got room to do some
strips on here, you know, or rip some one inch strips
for the remainder of this bad boy. Nice. That piece is number four. So check and check. We're gonna build two and
three on the next piece so let's cut this first. So that's where I stop. (upbeat music) First things first, let's
determine we have the right depth. That'll work. (whirring sound) Okay, that puppy is done. We just gotta put the drop edge on it. We've got a jigsaw alert. (whirring sound) And you go. (whirring sound) Okay, that piece is done. You know, if you're in a
bind and all you have is that little 90, you could
probably break the MDF and use your sheetrock
knife to finish that cut. Especially if you're doing
a rockface edge like we're gonna do, it can be
imperfect a little bit. We're gonna slap Bondo on
there and make it look like our actual slab of granite. So don't even sweat that. Snap it, use your sheetrock
knife if you don't need a jigsaw. So really the only tool necessary,
you will need the jigsaw for the sink though, so get a jigsaw. It's only like 99 bucks. They last a lifetime as
long as you don't leave them on the job site. All right, two pieces down. Okay, MDF. We're gonna build this bad boy. The 69 by 24 and a half. (upbeat music) (whirring sound) Pretty cool that all I'm
using is this circular saw and a jigsaw. You could build these on-site
with those two little tools, 'cause I guarantee you
this happens every time we're out doing these, the
neighbors are gonna go, "What are you doing?" "Oh, we're putting in
Stone Coat countertops." "Ooh, what's that? We've never heard of that." "Epoxy countertops. You haven't seen them,
come check them out." "Can you do mine?" Boom! Now you're paying
off your countertop. You're paying off your
couple hundred bucks, three, 400 bucks you just spent
to redo your countertop because your neighbor is
gonna pay you to do theirs or pay you to teach them. All my backsplash is right there. Now let's attach the drop edges. Okay, this guy is getting a
drop edge around all four sides so that's easy. I'm gonna cut two of these. (whirring sound) Perfect. (whirring sound) Cool. We use this 23 gauge little
tiny pins to attach the drop edge, and we also use
wood glue titebond two, that wood glue is gonna be
a stronger than nails bond. The pin nails hold that drop
edge till that wood glue dries, it's gonna be solid. One and a quarter inch
long, 23 gauge pin nails, that's what we use to
attach the drop edge. I use my finger as a straight edge. I'll hold it like that,
and then as I squeeze out. Nice straight line. I'm gonna squish it down and
hold it flush to the front. (clanking sound) That ooze out is so perfect. (clanking sound) That is perfect. So what that does is seals up that line. If we didn't have all that
glue push out like that, not the end of the world
'cause we're gonna come do a rockface edge. But let's say you're just
doing a round over edge and it's straight down,
it's nice and smooth, I would still Bondo that just
so you don't have this line show up. (clanking sound) One down, three to go. After we pour this, then I'll take it in, notch out my little notch so
that trims out that wall cap perfectly. It's gonna be awesome. One down, three to go. You guys can do this. You could build these right on-site. And you could see why I marked
which way the edges are, right? This piece only gets a
drop edge here and here. So, that'll be quick and easy. Does anybody know the
difference between titebond two and titebond three? Let me know in the comments below. All I noticed was a giant price increase. I'm pushing this towards the
front of the counter top edge. But again, if you're a little
bit off because of that rockface edge I'm gonna
be doing, no big deal. 'Cause I'm gonna come back and
grind it and make this edge look organic and unique
like mother nature made it, like it's a piece of chiseled stone. So it doesn't matter if
you're a hair off or if these corners aren't perfect. We're gonna grind that
and radius it anyway. So, we'll let that dry and
then we'll come sand that perfectly flat around that
front, around that top and bottom edge, just a hair that
makes that epoxy flow, that's if you're doing a round over edge. We're doing a rockface. We're gonna make this
sit organic and natural and look like a chiseled piece of stone. So if you're off the
hair, it doesn't matter. Two down, two to go. Seeing the pieces come to
life right before our eyes. Boom! That's a seam, it
doesn't need a drop edge. Backsplash, doesn't need a drop edge. Backsplash, doesn't need a drop edge. Fridge, whenever your bodying
a refrigerator, an oven, we're not gonna chisel that. We're gonna do a straight
radius edge so that fridge or oven can butt nice
and tight to the edge of the countertop. You don't want that chiseled
where you're gonna butt in an appliance. (whirring sound) (upbeat music) (clanking sound) The wood glue is nice and dry. We're gonna prepare this MDF
edge for an epoxy coating. So to do that, you can
do it a couple of ways. You can round over this top with a router and sand that flush. Some good practice is just
to coat a thin layer of Bondo on that front edge,
then you sand that flat, you round the top, the epoxy
will flow nice and even. I'm gonna choose option
two which is a rockface chiseled edge. And I'm gonna create
that on-site right now with a metal fiber sanding disc. These are available at
stonecoatcountertops.com. It also comes with this backer. It hooks right up on your grinder. I'm gonna in an organic
fashion just grind away at the edges. Wherever I have an oven,
right here I got the oven, I am keeping that nice and square. So you're gonna see both
epoxy edge methods on video right here right now, don't blink. This step is pretty quick. (whirring sound) Perfect. That's all we'll need to do. Just rough it up at organic movements. You don't want the same pattern
chopping down the whole top. So just change the angle
you're holding your grinder, hit the bottom a little bit. I don't go too aggressively
on the bottom 'cause I still want my edge to remain nice and stout. So I'll just give it a couple
of little dips and chops in there, whatever you wanna call it. And now this edge is ready for Bondo. I'm gonna continue on
with the rest of my edges, just roughing them up with
my grinder and then it's time to mix up some Bondo. (whirring sound) So here's a really good
example of when you would need to address your edge,
your drop edge for Bondo. So right here this edge is
solid, wood glue squeezed out the whole way. (Mitch whistles) No wood glue. See that void, you put epoxy
on this, that's gonna translate into your epoxy, it'll show. If you have any little voids
like that, fill it with wood glue, proud and then sand. Or a better method, use some
Bondo, mix up a little Bondo. I'm gonna be putting a Bondo
here anyway so I'll just bring it back. We'll sand that back flat and
then that's gonna completely disappear. This will not go through
on your final application as the epoxy flows over the edge. This is an eighth inch
round over router bit. So this is a scrap piece of MDF. I just wanna make sure
it's cutting perfectly before I take it to my
finished countertop. (whirring sound) No. (whirring sound) Okay, awesome. As I'm grinding on that
rockface edge, I'm really not taking away from the
depth of that countertop. I'm just kind of contouring
the top and bottom, adding a couple of chiseled
char marks in there. But you're gonna add a lot of
visual detail when it comes time to add that Bondo to the edges. So in a perfect world,
I'd have those variable speed grinder, but as I'm
showing you, you don't really need it. It's just, I have people who
are intimidated by the grinder. You just work, slow it
down and take your time, not a big deal. If the grinder intimidates
you, grab 60 grit on a random orbital sander, they're
gonna do the same thing. You can do the rockface
edge using your sander, it just takes a little longer,
it's like using a handheld Phillips versus a 20 volt impact driver. You know what I mean? They're both gonna get the job done. One's just gonna do it way quicker. By golly! If you don't have a random
marble sander, if you don't have a grinder, you can make the rockface edge using a utility knife. You're just gonna score
it at different angles, kind of do the same sort of thing. That's gonna take you some more
time but it's gonna give you the same sort of look. Since I used the grinder
on my other pieces, I'm gonna continue to continue
and carry on using that grinder so it doesn't look
a little bit different. So here we go. Mask up, let's roll. I've built this whole kitchen on-site. We'll have the rockface
edge done today by myself. So you guys can do this,
follow along in this video, update the kitchen in your
house or make some side money and update the kitchen
in your neighbor's house. (whirring sound) I went to buy Bondo at the
giant orange box store, sold out completely. And pointing me in the
direction of all the boats and cargo ships in the port
of Los Angeles and Long Beach thing. Oh, sorry. Guys, don't fret. If you wanna make a rockface
edge, Stone Coat Countertop has your Bondo solutions. Check us out, stonecoatcountertops.com. We carry Bondo, all purpose. It makes super sweet looking
epoxy edges, rockface edition, the only way to go in my opinion. If you can, do Bondo outside. Why? Because it stinks. You're gonna mix up and add the hardener to the manufacturer's instructions. They give you cool little
pictures and everything. Start with small batches if
you're not used to working with Bondo. It's quite simple, it's
like playing with Play-Doh on about a seven minute timer. So once you mix, you got
about five to seven minutes to apply that to the edge. We're going to tap it,
give it some visual detail, then we'll come back and
sand away any sharp points. And it looks so sweet once that
epoxy and undercoat hit it. (thudding sound) I just mix right on top of
the project I'm working with. We're gonna come back and
sand it and I'll just sand this area and get rid of
any residue before we start to paint it. All right. It's good practice to
kind of mix this up before squeezing it out, 'cause
what happens is it kind of separates. And for this size blob,
I've done this a ton, so I'm just gonna kinda
go about that much. Give it a good mixing. This is not very much at all. (scrapping sound) Okay, taking your gloved
hand or a Bondo spreader, we're going to apply some
Bondo right to this edge. So I'm applying, pushing
it on nice and firm. You don't need much Bondo at all. Come back and scrape the top. Apply a little Bondo and rub
it in with your fingertips. Bondo is a little easier
to clean up than epoxy. So I just gotta have a board
under here to catch any drips. As the Bondo starts to thicken and set up, you're gonna take your hands
and come back and add some detail to it. You can tap it. Create a high bunch of sharp
points, that's a little aggressive, or I kind of
do a little mixture of both and I rub it. The Bondo is starting to cure. It's becoming thicker like
paste, but still plenty pliable to add these visual details. Get all this residual off,
it makes for a heck of a lot easier sanding when this dries. That Bondo is gonna dry
and be ready to be sanded in about 20 to 30 minutes. I always will throw a
fresh set of gloves on 'cause the Bondo starts
to set up on your fingers. So get those gloves off. Always have plenty of gloves on-site. You won't regret it. The Bondo does wonders
to the MDF edge too. If you guys are building your
countertops out of plywood, you definitely wanna Bondo the front. Otherwise all those layers are
gonna show through the epoxy. So Bondo the front edge
after you put whatever edge you want on it. And then when you go to pour
epoxy, you're not gonna have any lines showing up
from all those applies. Applying the Bondo to the
edges is as simple as that. It's a real easy step,
it takes no time at all. Just mix up small batches,
apply it and it mix up another batch. My Bondo here that I
applied to my first piece is ready for sanding already. You've got a couple of sharp
points, little high points like that. I'm gonna throw 220 grit onto
my random orbital sander, give it a quick sanding,
just taking away any of those sharp points. I want some of this detail to stay behind, that's what starts looking
really sweet and natural when the epoxy flows over. (whirring sound) You see why I'm pouring it in place. Boom! Like a glove, nice. Each kitchen cabinet is unique. So if these drawers were any
higher, I would have to add buildup strips to bring up
my drop edge so the drawers would open. But we're clear, we're good to go. No buildup strips are needed
and I have nice sturdy boards running across from front to
back that'll be able to secure this countertop to the cabinets. Same thing with here. You could see my drop edge. Plenty of clearance for
the cabinets to still open. We're good to go. You could not do this with granite. Bingo! So I'm just gonna snug it
right where the backsplash is gonna sit. (whirring sound) Keep that trick in your back pocket. If you're installing
backsplash on your countertops, you can screw down through
the surface all the way tight next to the back of that cabinet. Your backsplash is going to sit up there. No one will ever know that
that was attached that way. (whirring sound) Bingo! So what's going on there? We have a piece of trim here,
rip out this dishwasher, this fairly new dishwasher. So I'm gonna take my little
buzz tool, trim that down about a quarter of an inch,
and then this countertop will sit nice and flush. We're gonna glue, get
ready to Bondo that seam. So I use dowels to seam
the backsplash outside, and then I'm gonna coat that as one unit. Why didn't I use dowels for this project? 'Cause it would be mega hard
to get this L and the dowels connected right here when
you're pinned in between walls. So what do you do in that case? You saw I have a nice support
bracket or a two by two right under the seam. I'm gonna fill this seam
with Bondo, which will dry rock hard. I'll overfill, sand back flush. You'll never know that seam was there. I'm gonna take off my
cabinets before I do that 'cause I'm gonna overfill
that seam so when I squish it together, it's gonna
squish out all that Bondo. And I know that thing is
filled up and gonna be solid. (whirring sound) Clean as a whistle. Oh yeah. Bingo! Okay, that worked. (whirring sound) Nice. (whirring sound) All right. Let's try to fit it. We're not all the way done. So yeah, that's gonna look nice. So I'll center this. I'll scribe it to this wall. I can already tell that
this is really crooked. So I'll put a straight edge along here. I'll trace it. I'll cut my inch and a half. We'll notch that out with
a jigsaw or a skill saw. And then this'll sit nice
and tight and have a little dog ear that trims this
little wall cap out perfectly. All right guys, we're gonna call it a day. I'm gonna eat dinner, sleep. I'll be back tomorrow morning. We're gonna seam this countertop. We'll sand it back flush. And then we'll apply the undercoat. I also will need to prep
the wall and the cabinet for an on-site pour. I'm gonna pour my backsplash
on my table right here in this room. Tomorrow is pour day. I'm not gonna be able to sleep. It's the best part of the whole job. Today, it wasn't that tough. One man show completed all
this work in about six hours. We'll be back tomorrow. It's time for some epoxy. Because we are pouring
these countertops on-site, I'm now gonna cover and
protect the cabinets. We already covered the floor. I'm gonna take delicate
release tape, cover right below my countertop edge. The next step is covering your cabinets. I like to grab three foot
rolls of three mil plastic over at the Home Depot. We'll take that to the top
and to the bottom so nothing leaks out. The next step, I'm gonna seal
the back of the countertops with paint grade latex caulking. That's just gonna keep the
epoxy on the countertop and not flowing down the back wall. We'll mix up some Bondo, fill
our seam, sand that back flat and then we're applying some undercoat. Let's get to work. Prep on-site is mega important. The last thing you wanna
do is let epoxy run down beautiful cabinets or get
on the customer's floor. So take precautions. Also delicate release tape,
put that first row up delicate. You don't want peel stain
or paint or whatever off cabinets. Delicate release is your best bet. And when you go to release
that tape, peel it off, be delicate. If you're super familiar with
prep and wanna skip this step, check out the chapter descriptions. We got your back. Skip ahead to whatever
you need to study up on or just long play the
video, that helps us grow. If you're getting value
out of this project guys, like, subscribe, help our channel grow. And if you're really
enjoying it, you're going, "Dude, this is awesome, I'm learning." Share the video, that helps us blow up. Thanks guys, now back to work. (scrapping sound) (gentle music) (scrapping sound) I'm gonna go on a little
bit up under that lip. That's gonna be nice. (scrapping sound) I kind of pull it tight and
then roll the bottom down to your ram board, and it
makes a really good seal to the deck. (scrapping sound) (upbeat music) I'm gonna take about a
quarter of an inch up from the countertop and then
cover the freshly painted wall. We're putting backsplash on this project. So, you know, the four inches
up is gonna be completely covered. So just raise your tape up
so it's not in the epoxy. (scrapping sound) And then when we go to peel
this, it won't be stuck in anything. (scrapping sound) Oftentimes epoxy projects
will have, you use spray paint additives 'cause spray paint's
metallic powders and dyes all fight each other inside
the epoxy to give you natural cool effects that you
can't get anywhere else. So that's why we're masking
above the countertop as well in case I wanna use some
spray paints, fracture, add the granitified effect,
all sorts of stuff you can do with spray paints. And we won't have any
over spray on the wall or the cabinets, we'll be
nice, we'll be good to go. It's a good practice
just to cover everything below and above. And now you have a nice sterile work spot to stay sticky free on the
stuff you don't want sticky. Handy masker, these things come in handy. It applies the tape directly to the paper. (scrapping sound) (upbeat music) All right, I'm gonna
use all purpose Bondo. This stuff is easily sandable. It's pretty easy to work
with to fill the seam. I'm gonna overfill it, sand
it back nice and flush. I'm gonna overfill the
front, rerockface that, you'll never gonna know
that this was made out of two separate sheets of wood. Just make your mixing station
here, right on the countertop. It's the easiest way to go. We'll scrape off as much
of the residue as we can while it's wet which we'll save
for some sanding time later. (upbeat music) Now take it and really
force it in the tip of that Bondo spreader, force it into the seam. Remember we have a nice
solid support under there so this Bondo will not push
through into your cabinet. (upbeat music) Okay nice, it's squeezed through that. It came all the way through
my sheet of MDF so I now know that thing is filled up. I'm gonna fill up the front seam now. Use your finger to force it in there. The key guys is to overfill
this 'cause we're gonna come back and sand it and you
won't see that seam line whatsoever. (scrapping sound) (upbeat music) If you're sealing MDF together
and you have the space to do it, dowel that seam. So I'm gonna show how to do
that with this little dowel jig you can pick up at your hardware store. They're pretty inexpensive. You clamp this to the piece. We're gonna drill in dead center
and install with wood glue these little dowels right here on my seam. We'll pre-seam that with
the dowels, we'll let it dry and then we're gonna router
the top and sides of all our backsplash. And then our backsplash is
ready to be undercoated, then epoxied. I'll move my table inside. And we're getting ready
to pour some epoxy today, it's gonna be a good day. So we're doing quarter-inch
dowels, so that's this littlest hole here. You have little center points on your jig. Center up that hole, clamp it down. I set the depth here of
how deep I need to go. And we're ready to go. (whirring sound) Pretty easy with this little jig. (whirring sound) Now we do the same thing to this bad boy. Yeah this is how I would
seam MDF on a countertop if I wasn't pinned in walls
and I could squeeze my dowels in. But there'd be no way to get your dowel, (whirring sound) tied in there, you know, 'cause
it's gonna be sticking out and you have to, no way to
do that in between walls. So you gotta do what we just
showed, which is have support underneath your seam and then
make those two pieces of wood one with Bondo. (whirring sound) A little bit of wood glue in
each one of those bad boys. This will be tough. This just keeps me from having
to have a seam in that giant runner backsplash. (thudding sound) I'm gonna round over the
top edge of the backsplash using an eight inch round over bit. You can also do that by hand
using the random orbital sander, start with like 120
or even 60 grit sandpaper. It's pretty easy to do it by
hand and get it quite uniform. But since I have this little
trim router, why not use it? It's perfect. (whirring sound) All right, I'm gonna sand this
dried Bondo back down flush. I'll hit the front edge,
then we're gonna paint some undercoat. (whirring sound) I can feel the Bondo all
the way through that crack. That is good to go. What's up Stone Coaters? How are you guys doing? What's up Brian? I'm coming shopping. What's up guys? I'm in behind the scenes at Stone Coat HQ. I'm gonna pick some colors. We're doing brown marble
for today's project. So I'm gonna get some whites, some browns. I'm gonna get epoxy dyes
and metallic powders. When you combine those
all into one bucket, they do some fantastic
stuff to get that countertop looking supernatural and mega good. Let's do this. A couple of browns, a couple of bronze, a couple of diamond dust. I don't know which ones I'm
using, I'm just getting a bunch of our earth tones. White metallic. Couple of coffee, pour me a cup. I need a couple of
white dyes, a brown dye. Bam! I think that's all I need. I'm gonna use some paint grade
latex caulking and caulk out the back of the countertop,
keep that epoxy from flowing off the back. Then I'm gonna apply
two coats of undercoat and then I'm gonna tape
off this front edge. Make a tape dam. It's optional, but it's a
pretty good and important step if you're gonna be pouring
an exotic poured countertop technique. It's gonna hold that
epoxy right on the surface until we come back two or three
hours later, peel the dam. The epoxy will flow nice
and even leaving behind high definition really
fantastic epoxy edges. (upbeat music) (Mitch whistling) You can glue or screw. (upbeat music) And cover that over. Squish. Nice. (upbeat music) I'm gonna sand this Bondo back
down smooth and then router this as one unit and then
it's ready for paint. (whirring sound) Let's move this table
in and start painting. It's time to apply the
epoxy undercoat guys. This project's gonna be some brown marble. Our undercoat is unique. I'm gonna tint it with
some of our epoxy dyes. I'm gonna pour it into
this mixing container. (upbeat music) It's about half a container of our dye. (upbeat music) (whirring sound) It's good practice to delint your rollers, I use masking tape. Delint them if you're doing
the ultimate top coat, delint them if you're painting. It just gets rid of any
loose fibers in your rollers. (scrapping sound) I'm just gonna dunk my
roller in this bad boy. (upbeat music) No bonding primer is needed
when going over wood, that's only needed when you're
going over slick existing surfaces. (upbeat music) I really like using this undercoat. It dries really quick so
you don't gotta wait around to start pouring epoxy. And you wanna go pretty
thin on your coats. We're gonna do two coats. So don't blob it too thick on that first. That's kind of just painting
and I don't shouldn't have to teach you how to paint. (upbeat music) And that raw MDF, like
where we routed and sanded, that's gonna be the area
we really wanna focus on. It's gonna absorb that paint
like crazy, like a sponge. So make sure you have plenty
of paint on any raw cut piece of MDF. (upbeat music) (whirring sound) More chocolate browns,
just what I was going for. Let's go. Coat number two. (upbeat music) Yeah, that's gonna be pretty. (scrapping sound) It's good practice guys if
you're gonna be using the epoxy dyes to tint the undercoat
to mix thoroughly. I would use a mixing head on
a drill or mix real thoroughly with a paint stick to
incorporate those dyes into the undercoat. (upbeat music) So this is 47 square feet. One can of undercoat should do it. Okay, that's it guys. We're gonna let the undercoat dry. And then we're gonna tape
off those front edges and then it's time to make some epoxy. Thanks for sticking
around this long folks. Check the chapter headlines below. That's gonna take you right
where you need to learn a little bit extra. We've built tops. We've prepped the job for an onsite pour. We're painting backsplash. We're applying undercoat
to those countertops. It's time to pour now, let's do this. All right guys, it's time
to apply the tape dam. I just use regular old standard
contractors masking tape and I'll apply a couple
of rows on the front edge, side edge, anywhere there's
an edge over your cabinetry. What the tape dam does is
it holds my exotic pour right where I leave it. I'm gonna leave the tape dam
on for about three hours. I'll come back and peel the
tape after the epoxy has started to thicken. That way when I peel it,
it flows nice and uniform leaving really high definition
edges along your epoxy project. That's a pro tip for really
sweet, awesome, natural, realistic looking exotic pours. This is really handy too 'cause
when that epoxy gets thick and peel this tape, it's gonna
make that edge look really nice and it's gonna stick
mostly onto this plastic. There won't be a mess we're
walking in as I pour this project today. Taping the edges is really helpful. I do a little support dam right there. I'm gonna do one more
row here in the middle just to reinforce this. (scrapping sound) Now I've got a little sticky
sticking up here, right? So this helps reinforce the
dam and keeps you from sticking to it while you're working with the epoxy. I'll take little strips. (scrapping sound) Sticky side up. Go down to your project
and slide this right to it and lock it up and fold it on over. (upbeat music) Now when you're going to peel
this, when you're working on it, you're not gonna
stick to your tape dam. When you're down here taping your edges, double-check your plastic. Make sure it stuck really
well to your cabinetry. Wow, this is looking good. Now is the time you're gonna
wanna repair any plastic that might come loose well
before I've mixed the epoxy. So check your plastic,
that's a very good practice. The areas that like to leak
are these inside corners. So I'll tape under the edge, roll that up, tape under the other edge,
roll that up and then tie up both pieces together with one more piece. That's the best method to
keep that epoxy from leaking in your inside corners. Whenever you're working with
epoxy in winter time or fall, it's getting cold, it's a
good practice to warm up your epoxy in front of a space
heater or a hot water bath. What that does is it warms up your epoxy, it makes it easier to mix,
it makes it easier to remove air bubbles that you
incorporate into the epoxy while mixing. It's an all around good
practice to warm up your epoxy just a little bit in the winter months. So don't keep your epoxy in
the back of your pickup truck or in the cab or your pickup
on the day before you're gonna pour, bring it in the
house, let it warm up. It's a really good practice
on-site to have a mixing table. I brought in my saw horses and my plywood, covered it with ram board. That's where I'll be
pouring my backsplash, as well as mixing up all my epoxy. That keeps you from
working on the countertop, 'cause as you work your
way through the kitchen, you're eventually gonna run
out of countertops to work with 'cause you gotta pour your epoxy on that. Then what do you do with
all your mixed buckets and all that? So have a little table,
cover it with plastic. All right, let me go grab
the painter's tripods, get that backsplash lifted up
so the epoxy will flow well and then it's time to mix. Woo, let's do this. Today's exotic pour is gonna
be two dyes and three metallic powders. We're going with our normal recipe. Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy. Stone Coat is a one-to-one
ratio of epoxy that you mix for two minutes with a
paddle mixer on a drill. If you don't have a paddle
mixer in a drill, that's okay, use a paint stick. You're gonna double and
extend your mixing time, scraping the sides and
bottom of that bucket. The biggest key to success
when working with epoxy is starting out with a good mixture. I have nearly 50 square feet of epoxy. So I'm mixing up this entire kit. We're doing an exotic pour. It calls for a few more
ounces per square foot, but I'm only doing one coat of epoxy. Tomorrow I'm gonna come
back and apply the ultimate top coat, that brings the top
back to being 100% food safe and insanely durable. If you're doing just the
clear coat, you're gonna do a black galaxy or you're doing
a recipe like Carrara marble, you'll mix up three
ounces per square foot. And that's when you use the
notch trout to evenly spread the epoxy. The exotic pour, you skip that step. You're pouring a little excess
epoxy, letting it self level and do its thing, leaving
behind some amazing natural effects. All right, grab the bucket
and mix for two minutes. (whirring sound) So when talking about color
selection with your customers, I sent her to the YouTube channel. Figure out what color scheme
your customer is looking for and then recommend a few of our videos. We have tons of different color
schemes, tons of different exotic pours and awesome
natural epoxy techniques that make your countertops look
natural and very beautiful. My customer said she really
liked my dining table and the caramel marble. Either one of those two
would look really nice but I'm gonna keep this
one on the lighter side. I'm gonna turn two coats instantly white. Ooh, look at this bucket. (upbeat music) So when doing an exotic pour
technique, you're gonna divide your mixed epoxy into
separate mixing cups. We're gonna tint those our colors. So I'm going brown, liquid
dye, white liquid dye, coffee metallic, white
metallic and some diamond dust, just a little bit. So first things first, we're
gonna tint a large amount with the white dye to keep
this project nice and light. (upbeat music) And then over here we'll be
tinting our metallic powders and brown dye. (upbeat music) A little goes a long way
with these metallic powders. (upbeat music) Try to get those powders
wet like that before really starting to mix and that keeps
it from getting airborne. Bam! Now you can pick up the speed. (upbeat music) You'll need to mix the powders
a little more than you do the dyes 'cause you wanna
make sure to get rid of any clumps. So after a good mix, scrape the
side, scrape off your stick, give it another mix. (upbeat music) I'm gonna make one more cup
with white and brown dye and barely mix. (upbeat music) The exotic pour technique is super simple. All you need to do is take
your tinted epoxy and layer it back into the larger mixing bucket. We're gonna take that mixing
bucket over to the countertop, pour it out, let it self level
while we come build another exotic pour to pour on
these other countertops. (upbeat music) There's really no wrong
or right way to do this. I'm just layering colors. You can also take spray
paint and mist in between some latte. I brought some hammered
bronze, let's add a little bit. (tumbling sound) Spray paint can go in
there and fight everything. Ooh, I never added some
of this yet either. (upbeat music) That's gonna be cool. You could tell I've been in no rush. I've mixed all this myself. I'm not panicking. Stone Coat Epoxy has tons
of open working time. No need to panic. No need to be in a rush. There's plenty of time for
this to sit in these buckets. You don't wanna sit in a
large mass, that'll speed up everything. So we're gonna go pour this
bucket out and see what we created. There's many ways to apply this. You could do a ring pour,
diagonal, all sorts of different stuff. Now mother nature is very
perfect in her unperfectness. You can go anyway you wish. I'm gonna kind of go
striated like this was a slab of granite and we just cut this part out. So even here, I'm gonna kind
of give it a flow front to back and we're gonna flow all the
way across the countertop. Check that out. Just take that bucket
and pour it right out. I'm gonna go more towards
the center of my countertop as I build my other
bucket, it'll give it time to self level. (upbeat music) We'll I think that's a W. (upbeat music) Okay. (upbeat music) I just filled up what I used
with the remainder of my epoxy. Adding a hair more powder,
give it a quick mix and build these buckets again. That's an under mixed white
and brown dye, look at that. I need to make more
mixed dye cups like that, under mix them. It's almost a baby exotic
pour inside of an exotic pour. You've seen it here first
folks, Stone Coat Countertops. If that didn't deserve a
subscribe, I don't know what did. We're turning mini exotic
pours into big exotic pours, into sweet looking countertops. Subscribe, ring that bell,
help us grow guys, thank you. We've got some crazy cool
stuff coming your way. We're gonna be on-site like
crazy in 2022 showing you how to up-level and fix your
worn out existing surfaces. (upbeat music) Good thing we cover stuff, folks. (upbeat music) Okay, so this is all gonna level out. But what you can do to help
this is just grab your finger and pull it away, break
up, make any dry areas wet. And that epoxy will flow really well. (upbeat music) Grab this blob. I'm barely touching that
leading edge, just lubricating that wood. There's plenty of epoxy on
here for this to self level. This is gonna look fantastic. (upbeat music) These back corners are difficult. Just pour a mass and then
walk it over your piece. Make a vein, that happens
in nature for sure. Oh, that's sweet. So I put my heat gun on high
and the highest heat setting. (whirring sound) My tape dam is doing really good, yeah. What I don't like is this white
line, it's too white for me. I'm gonna see what this
heat gun can do for it. (whirring sound) It softens everything, it
kind of spreads it out. (whirring sound) Yeah, it's helping. (whirring sound) The heat gun is a really good
tool to keep in your back pocket when working with epoxy. You can use it to remove bubbles. You can use it to meld colors together. (whirring sound) So I warmed up the epoxy
with the first pass and now I'm blowing some
browns and whites to feather them out and meld them
really well, that's awesome. (whirring sound) That took that too white
of a vein and melded it pretty well. So I'm gonna use the heat gun
to quickly go over the surface of the countertop to eliminate
any air I incorporated into the epoxy while working with it. (whirring sound) Just sweep the surface, an inch or two. A really easy process. (whirring sound) All I'm doing here when I go
fast is eliminating the air. When I slow down and start
heating it up and pushing on it, I'm moving colors. I like that bit of white,
I'm not touching that one, that's cool. This is looking really pretty. To speed things up and the most
efficient way to remove air is a propane torch. It's gonna be the same process. You're just gonna sweep
the surface of the epoxy. It takes one or two passes
and all the air will be out of there. (whirring sound) All right. I'll let that chill out. Let's go get the remainder
of this epoxy into the bucket and pour this guy. All right, here we go. (upbeat music) Scraping the buckets, almost done. This has been fun. (upbeat music) (whirring sound) Any spots that you don't
like on the project, I'm well past an hour after
mixing and I'm still able to kind of get this to
the way I really like it. I didn't like how white that
one was so I'm just kind of melding those colors together. It's working really good. I ran out of epoxy, but
thankfully I ordered a hair extra. So I'm gonna mix up a little bit. I just have to address my
backsplash and then this project's done. By the time I'm done with my
backsplash, we'll be getting up on time to peel that tape. So don't blink guys, peeling
tape is coming right up. (whirring sound) (upbeat music) Glued to the back. (upbeat music) As long as you get this undercoat wet, that's gonna self level and
coat over it really nice. (upbeat music) (whirring sound) All right, folks. It's been multiple hours. It's been about three hours
since we've mixed up this epoxy. The countertops are looking super good. I cannot wait to show my customer. So to kinda get the epoxy
going in the right direction, I'll come in and tug
down on the whole thing. You can really see how
jelled up the epoxy is. So before we peel, I just
kind of encourage it to go the right direction for
you by peeling this down. Okay, we'll come do this section. (upbeat music) Nice, I had no leaks on this. (upbeat music) Okay, now we're gonna take it off. Peel down from the top,
see how much thicker it is. It's gonna keep those
color techniques and lines and striations as it flows over. Epoxy is much thicker, but not
too thick to continue to flow and self level. And when I'm peeling straight
down and you could see it kind of brings that epoxy down with it. (upbeat music) I'm gonna come back with my
finger, then I'm gonna come grab this. (upbeat music) I'll start walking this
down, just like I did on the backsplash. (upbeat music) Get this area wet below it. (upbeat music) And then those color
techniques are gonna flow right down that edge. (upbeat music) It was just perfect timing. (upbeat music) Oh yeah, perfect. (upbeat music) See how the colors come
right home for her? Yes. The detail on my edge is
really, it really went through the roof when I started
doing this tape dam. I've taken off those bottom drips. And there's also a coat on
the underside of that wooden countertop, so kind of
encapsulating it in epoxy helped. (upbeat music) I'm almost done leveling guys. So kind of come here
with a flat paint stick and scrape those final drips off. There isn't gonna be many. (upbeat music) That's how you get rid of your
drips, no sanding on-site. All right guys, as you
can see, not many drips on the plastic, we waited
just the right time to peel that tape. We're gonna let this dry overnight. The paper I have above the
countertops is about a quarter of an inch. We should be good to
go leaving that alone. We're gonna come and peel
that tomorrow before applying the ultimate top coat. We're gonna come back tomorrow
also and cut out our sink before applying the ultimate top coat. Get that dry fit, make sure it's perfect. Then we're gonna top coat
the whole job, let that dry, come back and install that sink. I'm quite pleased with how
this project turned out. The earth tone marble flavor
I just created is gonna match the floors and the cabinets really well. I'm gonna stick around for a
few more minutes and continue to hit these edges, that way
there's no sanding tomorrow. The bottom of my edges will
be nice and smooth and coated with epoxy. It's gonna look really nice tomorrow. We're gonna let this dry,
we'll be back tomorrow. What's up folks? I'm here to install a top mount sink. My epoxy countertops have cured. They laid out perfectly
level, I'm really pleased. Between hour four and five,
I scrape the bottom of these drips. I use my glove finger and
a paint stick to smooth the bottom. All right. To install a top mount
sink, you're gonna need a tape measure, some
masking tape, a square, a drill bit to do your corners
and a jigsaw to cut out that piece. It doesn't take much time. I'm gonna show you how
to lay it out right now. A couple of things to
take into consideration when laying out your top
mount sink is knowing where your front face frame is. You don't wanna start
the top mount sink cut right where your face frame is. So go a hair behind that. Usually when you center that
seam template front to back, it will completely bypass that face frame. But always double check that. If you had an undermount
sink on your project, you're gonna want to cut that out before. The reason I cut layout
and cut my top mount sinks after I pour, it's gonna flow perfectly. I'd have to do a tape dam in
here, worry about some epoxy getting in, this way I don't
have to worry about it. I don't have to do little
tiny sections which can be a little bit difficult for
the first time user of epoxy. So if you have a top
mount sink you're building from scratch, I would
cut out my top mount sink after I pour. You will use a little bit more epoxy, but I think in the end
the countertop looks best. Okay. Let's find center of our window here. (scrapping sound) 29 would be 14 and a half. Now we find center of the template. 30 and a half, 15 and a quarter. Oh my goodness gracious! Perfectly on 15 and a quarter. How does that work? Ladies and gentlemen, the
fat guy in the overalls at least can do math. (laughs) Okay, bingo. There is center of my sink. 15 and a quarter, 15 and a quarter. Another thing to take
into account is how far your window sill sticks out. Sometimes your faucets come up. So always make sure you're
clear of that, which we will be. I'm gonna go back just a
hair, one and a half plus three quarters, two and a quarter. I think we're good right there guys. That's my sink. So what I'm gonna do now,
you could either hold it or just tag it down a little
bit so it doesn't move. I'm holding down my template as I mark it. All right, we need somewhere
for the jigsaw to start. So use a drill bit and
hit your four corners. (whirring sound) Your normal wood bit. (whirring sound) We'll cut right through
the cured epoxy and wood. (whirring sound) That's just a three eighths drill bit. All right, again, I'm just
using a wood blade as well. (whirring sound) And then my blade fell out, ugly. And it fell into my taped
off cabinet. (laughs) We follow the old survival motto, "One is none and two is one." So, have spare jigsaw blades
for whenever the opportunity would arise that your blade
falls into your taped off cabinet. So have some extras. Let's try that again. (whirring sound) Perfect. Money. Nice. Plenty of room for the faucets. This is sweet. All right guys, the sink fits really good. I'm gonna get it cleaned up. We're gonna sand the tops. I'm gonna sand the front
edge, just very lightly, just a real light scuffing
'cause I'm about 20 hours after I poured these. So they're quite fresh. I could almost get away without sanding. If you come back to your job
within about 16 to 18 hours and they're subtly little
bit sticky or tacky, which these aren't, they're
past that, so that's why I need a little scuff. If your tops are a little sticky or tacky, that means you could do your
clear coat without having to sand. You come back, they're
hard, no tack, no stick, you need to lightly sand with
220, clean the dust with 91% isopropyl alcohol. And then we're ready for
either the ultimate top coat or an epoxy clear coat, which
is our Stone Coat Countertop Epoxy, just mixed up clear,
applied over, trialed, chopped, torched, that makes
the countertop completely food safe from those
additives we added in. The ultimate top coat which
is what we're doing here for this rental, that's
gonna make these countertops absolutely bulletproof,
lasts for a very long time and it also brings those
countertops back to being food safe. So I'm gonna go set the sink
down, give it a quick cleanup and it's time to sand. Lightly sand the project by
hand or with your random orbital sander with 220 grit. We're just scuffing up to
make a mechanical bond. This top here is really on
the borderline of being able to pour without sanding, but
I'm gonna sand just to be safe. We'll go about speed three. (whirring sound) I'll use these maroon Scotch-Brite pads. I use these to hit my edges. This is gonna be the thinnest
application of epoxy, are those vertical edges. We overcame that a little
bit by keeping the tape dam on those edges for an
extended period of time. Letting the epoxy thicken
before we let it flow over. Now you get a thicker
more high definition edge, but we still want to use
concern, use these maroon Scotch-Brites. And the edges just need a
light scuffing, not much. (scrapping sound) Clean off the dust with isopropyl alcohol. Now this top is ready for
some ultimate top coat. These maroon Scotch-Brites
get in the nooks and crannies of my rockface edge without oversanding. It's perfect. All right, we're sanded up. You can see in the reflection. It's just a little scuffed up. (upbeat music) Not too much, not too aggressive. It's all just light, sanding
is all that's needed. I'm gonna go take care
of all that backsplash. I'll be right back. Don't forget to wipe that dust
off, 91% isopropyl alcohol. This stuff is awesome on the job site. It's awesome to clean up epoxy spills. If you get wet epoxy areas
and you don't want it, isopropyl alcohol does a
fantastic job cleaning it up if you got a whoops-a-daisy. Countertops are prepped,
sanded, cleaned and ready for top coat. Our sink's been cut in. The ultimate top coat
is ready to be mixed. All right, remove the lint
from your dry rollers. We use a quarter inch nap dry roller. I'm gonna use some masking tape. I'm gonna tape it to my sink cutout, I'll roll on the tape. Remove the lid from those
rollers, you're gonna use one roller to apply the
top coat nice and heavy to the countertops. And then you're gonna rotate
through your dry rollers. When they get too saturated,
you're gonna discard and get a brand new dry roller. We're gonna lightly feather
and dry roll after we apply it nice and wet to remove excess
material, leaving a nice sprayed on tight finish. I'm gonna use the little
frame as my wet roller. And I'll use these long
frames as my dry roller. Since I'm here by myself,
I'm just to set up a bunch of dry rollers. So I don't have to fumble
through switching my quarter inch nap rollers when they get too wet. Here's how to apply the ultimate top coat. Shake part A vigorously
before mixing with part B. You're gonna measure
at a two to one ratio. Mix with a paint stick
for a couple of minutes, then we're gonna add up to 10% of water. That's gonna thin the
material from really thick Elmer's glue to a nice thin latex paint. That's the consistency we're looking for. We'll take the mixed top coat
and apply it into our paint tray, and now we're ready
to apply with a wet roller to the countertop. I'm gonna work in sections. I'll apply wet, and then
I'll dry roll off and feather that dry roll. And I got, you know, 50 square
feet and that's about a whole kit of ultimate top coat. (upbeat music) All right, now that B is in
there guys, we're on the clock. You don't need to be
fumbling all over yourself and sprinting, but you
have less working time with a top coat than we do the epoxy. You can see the thickness
of that, right folks? Pretty thick, little less
thick than Elmer's glue, but we're gonna thin this
down with some water. (tumbling sound) Much thinner folks, see that. All right guys, I'm gonna
pour that into my paint tray and start to apply. So I'm gonna completely
saturate my roller, roll some of it off, and
apply this nice and heavy to the countertop. I'm looking for a nice,
heavy even coating, and then I'm gonna use
my roar, my wet roller, to initially dry roll the project. Do not forget those edges. And you also wanna make, when
you do this rockface edge, really do multiple angles as
you roll down that top edge. So you hit every bit of that
unique chiseled rockface look. I'm gonna grab my dry
roller and with pressure on the frame of the roller, I'm
gonna dry roll this project. Very light pressure here. I'm removing excess top coat, up and back. Nice, perfect. Okay, now hit those edges. Very light pressure here, folks. I'm just letting the
roller collide right across the surface. Hit all those angles. Whew, that's gonna look good. Holy Toledos, one down,
a couple more to go. Nice and heavy. (scrapping sound) You can see the roller remove the material and that's exactly what
you wanna be doing. After this section, I'm gonna
switch to a new dry roller. Just hovering it when you
dry roll, no pressure. If any pressure it's towards
that frame, then you work away. If you're just starting
out with the top coat and it's not rolling out
like this, you've probably not added enough water. Thinning the material really
helps it lay out really nice. That's like five minutes after I dry roll. It's nearly cleared up completely. It's gonna look so good. I'm gonna let this dry completely. And then I'll be back
tomorrow to install the sink, de-prep and install the backsplash. It's been about 24 hours
since I applied the ultimate top coat. We're ready to install the wall cap. We're ready to install the
backsplash and get cleaned up. What's up folks? It's the final day on-site. I'm here to do just a
little bit of finish work and this job is a wrap. I'm gonna install the backsplash. I'm gonna caulk that out. I'll get rid of all
this plastic and paper. I'll roll on a waterproofing
membrane around my sink and under my sink, that'll
keep this countertop solid for many, many years. Get a roller pin and a
roller, we're gonna apply the waterproofing membrane
around the perimeter and underneath where my sink is. I really don't need much of this. It's thick, it goes on pretty quickly. No moisture should be getting
here 'cause this is a top mount sink. And when we go to install
this, we're gonna silicone the perimeter. So when you silicone the
perimeter of your top mount sinks and you do that right, no
water gets under there. This blue tape is good stuff
to use on fresh ultimate top coat. It comes right up. All right, it's time to cut
in the dog ear on my wall cap. I'm gonna tape off this in,
scribe my wall, mark it, take it outside, give it a
quick cut with the jigsaw and this is ready to glue down. So I'm centering my piece right now. I'm holding my stick along that
wall, that carries that same angle out. Hold your stick down. Mark your line. Boom! (upbeat music) I'll go cut that. So I know I had an inch and
a half overhang on every side of my wall cap. That shim only got me about an inch. So I'm gonna add a half
of an inch to this, right along that scribe
line we made with the shim. (upbeat music) (whirring sound) Perfect cut. (scrapping sound) Boom! (scrapping sound) So just get yourself a straight edge. Follow that wall on both
sides and your cut's perfect. (upbeat music) 117 and five eighths,
barely cutting anything off. (whirring sound) Nice. Boom! So I made these intentionally
long just in case your first runs a little,
sticks off the wall of hair, whatever may happen. You wanna cut these right
to size which that is, 68 and five eighths. Measure twice, cut once,
I'm double checking that measurement. 68 and two little lines
past the half. (laughs) I had an employee tell me
that kind of stuff before. And then I told myself I didn't
do a good enough interview, but I sent them home with a tape measure. He started practicing and counting. Before we knew it, he
was a tape measure pro. So it's okay, guys. Start where you need to start. If you gotta count each 16th, do it. You'll get better. (whirring sound) Nice. All right, two more sticks. (whirring sound) Nice, backsplash is fitting
really nice before I glue it in. So I always to fit your
backsplash, that's a good practice guys, that way. Ooh, that looks cool. It's gonna match well. That way, you know, before
you have glue all over it, you're fitting nice. All right, let's get some silicone. I'll put about quarter
size blobs on the back. And then the silicone will
suction cup these down. I'm also gonna use silicone
to glue down my bar top. I'm gonna glue my wall cap down with this. It's gonna marry it to
that two by four and never come off. (upbeat music) I go about the middle of my
board 'cause I don't want silicone to squeeze out the top. (clanking sound) Beautiful, man. Nice. (clanking sound) Well, we're looking really
good and I haven't even caulked it out. (upbeat music) The backsplash has been
siliconed nice and tight to the walls. I'm now gonna seal the top
and bottom of the backsplash. So I use silicone to glue to the wall. You can also use clear
silicone where the backsplash meets the countertop. For this project, I'm gonna
use Alex Plus by DAP White. It's a latex paintable caulking. I'm gonna caulk that out on the top. It's gonna look so close to the
walls, there will be no need to paint. All right, apply your caulking heavy. (clanking sound) Use your finger to get
rid of all the residue. Squeeze out all the rest. I'm pushing against the
backsplash and the wall. Go nice and flat. Get the majority of it off. Don't worry about all that residue. We take that tile sponge now,
wring out most of the water and just wipe it right across. (upbeat music) Switching up your corners. Anybody using this sponge,
a damp sponge like this can be a pro at using latex
caulking against the wall. (upbeat music) Really clean. So the homeowner wanted
to extend the countertop. They requested I extend it
over to give them a 30 inch opening to hug their oven
a little bit tighter. But they didn't extend
over their sheetrock here and I got a pretty good gap. So I'm taking some rolled up paper towels. You can also use foam
backer rod that they sell at the Home Depot. But, you know, paper
towels have gotten away, when you're out in the middle
of nowhere, paper towels work perfectly. Just roll them up and we're
gonna stuff it back in there. And what that does, that keeps
the caulking from drooping too bad. Gravity is gonna make
that caulking go down. And because this is a bigger
gap, it'll leave a big dish. Sometimes two layers of
caulking will be necessary to completely fill it once it's
kind of shrunk and settled. This way I'm not filling
a whole tube of caulking behind this. We'll get it nice and flat,
and then we'll come back and paint this. And it will blend in better
than a giant hole here. So just improvise
on-site, is the key here. So now that I have those paper towels in, I can overfill this. And I'll probably use like a
shim or something to tool it because it's so big. Plus this is back behind the oven. Not many people even see back in here. So once you paint it, it'll
probably be trimmed out enough. (upbeat music) Bam! (upbeat music) To make a real nice watertight
seal where the backsplash meets the countertop, you
wanna use 100% silicone. This stuff is mold-free
for, this one says lifetime. that's kind of nice. Silicone Supreme,
mold-free for a lifetime. We're gonna seal the
bottom and the verticals of our backsplash, which now
makes this countertop 100% water tight. You could open up a fire hose
on this bad boy and no water is gonna get down behind your cabinets. You want to put as little
as possible, where when you tool it, that's all that I took off. And that small tip is
crucial to seal that up well. The small tip, if you add
too much, if you're new with silicone guys, don't be
afraid to tape off the bottom of the backsplash and
your countertop surface so you don't smear silicone everywhere. I started out in the window industry. And then I went into
the countertop industry. And then I went to the
general contracting industry. And all three of those,
you need to know how to use caulking. (upbeat music) So when you do this
right, you're only pulling a tiny bit off with your fingertips. Don't forget these verticals. And I give myself a
very, very subtle angle. (upbeat music) When you do that correctly,
it helps with the amount of silicone that goes in as well. (scrapping sound) Bingo! (upbeat music) There you have it folks,
building and installing Stone Coat Epoxy Countertops on-site, really isn't that tough. I hope this video gave you
some confidence to start that epoxy project in your home. And don't forget, you can
go over existing surfaces without ripping them out. We have videos that teach you step by step here on our YouTube channel,
Stone Coat Countertops. Thanks for watching everybody. Remember, you've got this. And we'll see you on the next video. (upbeat music) ♪ Stone Coat Countertops ♪ ♪ You got this ♪
