How To Build a Solid Wood Table Top

hey guys Mike here with Stone Koch countertops dot-com check out this table surface that we just finished our final coat on we're gonna show you in this video everything we did from raw lumber all the way to our final coat we took many different species of wood we didn't even stain them this is all natural we're gonna show you everything that we did step by step how to adhere these together how to create this amazing table surface check us out and visit us anytime at Stone Koch countertops dot-com enjoy the video [Music] [Music] [Music] hey guys Mike here with Stone Koch countertops calm today we're gonna take all these different scraps of wood and we're gonna make an amazing table there's a bunch of different species just purple woods and jacobian walnut we got maple we've got all kinds of great great species that we're gonna laminate together and make a really cool project we're gonna show you how to take our epoxy and cover the surface we're gonna show you how to reinforce this so you don't get cupping and and movement on this table for the long haul stay tuned all the tips and tricks are right now first thing what we're gonna do is rip this down into two and a quarter strips our overall table is going to be 2 inches thick when we're done so we're gonna give ourselves two and a quarter so because we know when we bar clamp this together we're gonna have some imperfection but that's where our slab jig comes into play we're gonna show you how to level the sink to perfection it's gonna be very flat and very true so first thing I'm gonna do is set up the table saw and I'm gonna rip this down to 2 and 1/4 inches let's get started okay what we're doing is we're working with some wood that is what they call s 3 S which is sanded 3 sides and some of these are just sanded 2 sides and so you have two edges that are just rough sawn from the the actual mill and so we're gonna put a nice straight edge on one side of these so that we can then measure two and a quarter and cut our pieces accordingly and not have it be wavy down one end so we're just gonna take a nice straight piece of plywood that's already ripped and we're gonna shoot this with our 23 gauge pin nail gun the reason we use 23 gauge nails is because we could snap those off without evidence that you pin nailed it or screwed it or something like that they come out really easy but they hold just perfectly for a cut like this so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to start at this end I'll start my board I'm gonna get a measurement on that right here so we know that's about seven inches we'll come down here we'll get this at about seven inches and then we'll see and make sure when we rip this we just rip enough off to make a nice straight cut okay let's check that now and we're going to make sure that no part of that cut will be really see it bows out which is fine so our short points are at the end anyways so I'm gonna take off I'm gonna cut it at instead of seven we'll go six and seven eight that'll cut a nice sliver off of this but it'll make a really good straight edge for us so we're just popping this off now I got pin nails that are protruding and all I got to do is snap these off and on real hard wood trying to pull them out with pliers sometimes it'll leave them proud and they'll be sticking up and they're like needles so you just got to be real careful but if I do this those are nice and flush got one more it will pop that off perfect now I have a really good straight edge on one side of this that we can use and cut as our guide I'm gonna finish doing this stack of lumber we'll move on to the next step [Music] okay we got all the board's cut nice and straight so we put a straight edge on those boards that were just roughs on we're gonna finish cutting those all two and a quarter wide let's do that right now [Music] okay we got everything ripped too up two and a quarter now what we're gonna do is we're gonna cut them to length roughly because when we get this all laminated together it's not gonna be perfect you'll have pieces that protrude further than the others will take and will rip that as one piece but right now we're just gonna get it close so we're not wasting a bunch of epoxy when we laminate this together so I just got my simple t-square we're gonna set that up here we'll go to our shortest points which are right here and I'm just gonna give myself a mark so we can cut this on the chop saw now what's nice about our cut off pieces you can always save your cut off and use them on small projects and art projects and different ideas that you have you can even make a table out of scraps so we're gonna go ahead and cut all these down and we'll start our next step after that [Music] what we're gonna do right now is we're going to plastic the surface off because when we epoxy our and laminate this table together we don't want it laminate into our table so the plastic will act as a barrier between the table and the wood that we're laminating [Music] so what we've done is we've really separated color so that we didn't have any one color taking over a section we try to spread out the color I love what Mother Nature has done with these different species of wood and how you bring it all together and the beauty found in an unstained finish is is just crazy this is going to be such a fun table to laminate together we took the time to do this now as opposed to doing it after we've started the epoxy process because then it's going to be a fluid easy system we're gonna get it right put together without any worries so we got this set up we're gonna go ahead and get some bar clamps ready we'll get our epoxy mixed up and laminate it together we'll be right back alright guys we've got this all set up we added a couple more blonde boards we really liked the contrast what do you think of the contrast match it looks great I like how the orange really pops it's not too much it's just it's amazing on what Mother Nature can create here was not out of stain and all the different colors it's really amazing I agree I I I never was a big fan of purple but this purple heartwood it's got me sold and I can't wait to see what it looks like with the epoxy on there so what we're gonna do now is we're actually gonna take these boards we're gonna brush our regular stone coat countertop epoxy on each of these pieces we're gonna mock it up we'll squeeze it together with our bar clamps we'll get everything pretty square on the ends we're gonna come and cut those ends after it's all dry anyways but we're gonna pound down this and we'll get it all nice and tight get it all clamped up and that's why we have plastic you know you can't put bar clamps underneath and and rotate them but because we have a really flat table and pretty big feet on our bar clamps we're just gonna do them all from the top that way we don't get epoxy that drips on our bar clamp that we have to pop off later so we're gonna go ahead and get all this epoxy it up and clamp together and we'll let it sit let's get started you ready bud alright here we go [Music] okay we've got some Part A and Part B of a regular stone coat countertop epoxy mixed up we're just gonna use our shop brush and we're gonna go through here we're gonna brush one side we'll put it together you can do both sides if you want but one side is gonna laminate really well this is like the best glue on earth and you'll find that out if you ever try to pull something apart that's been a poxy together alright so what we're gonna do is just brush this out get a nice even coat on these boards and we'll love we'll do each board down the line here and it will be a great great Asian yeah get another batch mixed up and we'll start on that end Mitch and we'll just keep going right down the line here oh yeah no biggie [Music] we're now going to use our bar clamps and we're gonna start squeezing this together we're not going to crank it too tight until we take our board and our hammer and we'll start tapping these down to hold some of the crown down a little bit and then we'll we'll clamp it super tight and let it sit overnight let's do it [Music] [Applause] [Music] okay guys what we're doing now is we're putting these blocks in to hold our boards down you don't want any cupping going on because of our bark plants so these are holding everything down nice and tight we've taken some masking tape and we put it on the bottom side of the 2x4 because if we didn't this is gonna glue to our wood when we take these off the the masking tapes gonna glue to the wood but the planner will plan that right off for us but we won't get tear out ripping the wood apart because the epoxy would bond those really really well all right we're gonna go ahead and put this right here on the end Mitch I'll start and then you could we'll just get it loose we'll both clamp it together right now this is raised a little bit off my deck and when we do this it's gonna make it super tight all right you ready to go let's do it boy the epoxy now gives you a great idea of what this thing can look like when we're all said and done man what do you think what's funny is you still you know we had saw marks and all this wood and everything and and and it doesn't even it's not even close to wood it's gonna look like but it's still awesome yeah I'm all the way down nice and tight to the deck and we got this semi straight here you know we we got all the board's pretty close so we don't have a bunch of waste when we cut this apart but get everything nice and tight yeah that's nice and tight good yeah I'm not getting any movement out of those we have a little bit of lipids here and there but the the router jig is gonna take care of all that so we're gonna let this dry we'll come back after this is all dry and we're gonna start planing it we'll see in a little bit okay guys we've let this set up overnight we're going to start deep prepping it right now take all of our clamps off and we're gonna pop this up remove the plastic we'll husband's tape that has stuck to the underside and things like that but then we'll get this prep to start leveling with our slab jig let's do this [Music] okay guys we got all the clamps off and all the plastic off of our slab here what you have to remember when you're using plastic use three mil plastic or thicker don't use thin painters plastic because it's gonna tear it you really try to pull it off because it's gonna have some adhesion but a three melt gives you something to pull on and it won't tear apart and leave little strips for you that's a good tip what we're gonna do now is we're going to set up our slab jig to the thickness of our actual slab I'm gonna show you the distance right now of our jig versus our table so what you see here is we have a very little distance between our table and the actual jig and my router bit is about 3/4 of an inch thick and so we're gonna need to raise this table up now I can adjust my router down no problem but our hole jig needs to come up so that it will give us some room so I'm going to use 2 by 4 runners right along this edge and that's going to give us the opportunity to lift our jig if you have a really big jumbo slab you can build that up whatever thickness you need as long as it's the same on each side so if you wanted to do two 2x4 skis you get a really thick piece of wood you are gonna go ahead and plane down that's what you do if you need more table space rip those down to two by twos whatever you need to do just to just to lift this up on our wheels only take up about one inch on each side so that you don't need very wide strips to lift this up but because we got plenty of room on our ends we're just going to use regular two by fours to lift this up to the height we need let's do that right now [Music] [Music] okay guys so now we have inch and a half lifted here on our runner so our jig is actually going to ride up another inch and a half so we have a lot of distance here between our slab and our router now I got a 3 inch planing surface planing router bit whenever you hook this up you want to make sure it's really tight you don't want any vibration on this bit you're using a big router bit so just be careful so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna loosen my base let's actually get this through I'll loosen that base don't ever do this while the routers plugged in and now I'm just gonna make sure my bit will hit and it sure will so I'm gonna now find the low point on my slab so that we can set our router bit to that particular point so what I'm doing is I'm just making sure that my bit when I rotate this down it will come down and hit the top of my table without extending my router too far and that works really good now I'm gonna pull it up off that surface and I'm gonna use a tape measure to find the low point of my slab is I'm gonna just get a measurement here some one in fifteen sixteenths there I'm one in fifteen sixteen right there I'm two inches let's just go down my slab and see how thick we are there's two inches there's there's one in fifteen sixteenths there's two it's pretty even which it should be we ripped everything down but on a wood slab you're gonna have more coverage and things like that okay now that we have our slab jig lifted up an inch and a half off of our deck we're gonna set our planting bed and we know that we're pretty even across this so I'm gonna go ahead and just get get an eyeball here and I want to be about an eighth of an inch up so I can adjust this where my router is about an eighth of an inch off the deck and we'll test that out and make sure we can plane everything down I may I may have to get up go a little lower but I can always go a little lower if I want to alright let's set this up don't ever set that while the routers plugged in always be safe we're gonna put our mask on our ears have eye protection let's go for this right now another thing you're gonna want to check is make sure that your stuff is gonna stop your router bit from hitting your jig and it sure will right there we're set at a good spot we're ready to go [Music] okay here what we're doing is we're taking three quarter by three quarter-inch steel bars we've cleaned those with acetone we've gotten them all ground down with our 50 grit metal sanding disc so that we get great adhesion we're rotting out pockets so that we can insert these steel bars and have them flush under our table that's really important so that you don't feel them when you rub your hands and knees underneath your table these steel bars what they're gonna do is they're gonna reinforce this table so that it doesn't cuff or warp we're also using our semen crack fill to put these into the table or semen crack fill is very very strong and it dries in about three hours in the sandable in about three hours it's a great product to be able to embed things as well as fill cracks and crevices in your project you're gonna see that be used a little later on in this project you can also use a bondo spreader to spread our semen crack fill to fill in these joints when using our semen crack fill to embed these steel bars pour a little bit of material in the router tout joint put the bar in and then simply add a little bit more material and use a bundle spreader to make it flush you can come back and check your work you have about 15 minutes of working time to work with this okay after the semen crack fill has all dried now we're ready to sand off the excess and remove all the marks from our router jig we're gonna use a 50 grit metal sanding disc we have a link to this on our site as well this disc will get rid of these grooves very quickly and removes a lot of material with ease if you use a normal sanding disc it's gonna take a much longer time and a lot more effort this is a great tip and trick to really expedite this process after the 50 grit metal sandy dis deficit continues we will progress to normal wood sanding discs but right now let's remove all of these grooves so we have a nice flat surface at this time we're going to use our t-square and give ourselves a nice straight line so we can cut the end so we have a really flush surface we like to do two passes but we don't run that blade all the way through at one point so we get a great time after cutting our end grain we're gonna use our 50 grit metal sanding disc to clean up that cut I can't let me do right here so because there's a little more epoxy because these are bigger it's a little harder I'm gonna break this apart okay so you can see that epoxy holds stronger than that piece of wood is holding this is walnut right here and that walnut split not at the joint where the epoxy is has split on the wood that is awesome if you run the strategy process you can see it is extremely extremely how's that look perfect so there's no okay the next step that we're doing here is we're making a mixture of our semen crack fill we're doing a one-to-one ratio and we mix it for about two minutes after we've mixed it we add our thickener the reason we're adding thickeners so that the semen crack fill doesn't go all the way through these cracks and crevices and thickens it up and makes a great paste we add a little bit of our color here we're doing our metallic bronze but because these cracks are so thin it doesn't jump out at you like a metallic color it looks like a very natural deposit in this table we're gonna overfill these cracks and then we're gonna come back after it's dried and sand everything flush and this really sets us up for our next step when we do our seal coat so that we don't have our seal coat dripping and and going through these tiny little voids so we've gone through our table and we look for any little pit or crack and we're just over filling any of that now we are making a mess on our surface and that's okay we're gonna come back and sand off all this excess right after this dries we like to use a bondo spreader after we've applied our semen crack fill to make a nice flush joint I need to point out also we have not done our finished sanding we've only done our 50 grit sanding disk up to this point some of our favorite benefits to using semen crack bill is that at zero vo C and it's fast drying it's not gonna hold your project timeline up because usually in about three hours it'll be tag free and ready to sand here we're gonna use that fifty grit sanding disk and we used one on this entire project and it didn't clog up we're ready to router the edges of our project now we like to use a 1/4 inch router bit on the top and a 1/8 inch router bit on the bottom this is a really clean look to your project we also like to use a sanding disc by hand on those edges as opposed to using a power sander on the edges so that we don't deform that nice clean routered edge after we've routed our edges we're ready to use our random orbital sander and remove all of those initial scratch marks caused by our angle grinder and that metal sanding disk here we're gonna start with a 60 grit sanding disc and we're gonna move through 60 grit 100 grit 150 grit and we'll stop at 220 grit on our random orbital sander we really take our time with that first pad or 60 grit pad to remove all of those swirl scratch marks you need to do this so that when you wet out your surface you don't see swirl marks coming through that epoxy the epoxy is amazing and it will really bring the grain to life but if you've left scratch marks from your low grit and you're standing it's gonna show through so take your time and have fun this is honestly one of the most relaxing parts of the whole project and it's also one of my favorite now we're ready to bring this project to life we're gonna do our first seal code we're gonna mix up one ounce per square foot and we're gonna pour it right on this wood surface now what is a porous surface so if we were to start with a big thick flood coat all the air trying to escape this wood would cause stubborn bubbles in our project that we don't want so we're gonna start with a very thin coat and we're gonna squeegee it on using a normal shower squeegee when we pick our squeegee we don't like one with metal parts on it so that we don't risk scratching our finish sanded surface so we're simply gonna spread this epoxy out and we're gonna work the epoxy towards the edges when we get the epoxy towards the edges we're simply going to roll it over that edge using a controlled motion with our squeegee and we'll come back with our gloved hand and we'll rub it in the surface as you can see here we're just rolling a little bit epoxy over that surface and then we'll come back and rub it in it's a really fun part of this project because you get to see what this wood really looks like when you apply our stone coat counter top epoxy it honestly brings it to life all right what we've done is we've done our first seal coat and now we're ready for our second seal coat one thing I want to keep in mind is when you do your seal coats you're not going for perfection you would need a flood coat to have everything level out perfect we're just getting the surface wet and you're gonna see that some wood is more porous and soaks in the epoxy than other parts of the wood so some of the alder has really soaked this in and so what we're gonna do is sand this with 220 grit we'll sand the edges we'll sand the round overs by hand don't use your power sander on the round overs because we don't want to mess up that perfect shape we'll simply go through those first sanded by hand and then all the flat spots of the surfaces we'll do with our power sander we'll get everything sanded we'll wipe the dust there's no need to use a solvent we'll wipe the dust and we're ready for our second seal coat again this is done with the same stone co count ur top epoxy that you're gonna use for your flood coat it's the same product it's just applied much thinner when you do the seal coats here we go [Music] a quick tip for you is on your first seal coat you're gonna have bubbles and it's really gonna show you where you need to concentrate where you need to fill again you're not gonna be perfect and that's okay don't worry each seal coat it gets better and better it's like unraveling a Christmas present so here I can see some divots and dips and nibs and nubs and those kind of things so I sand it a lot of that off but don't try to sand this perfect leave those imperfections all we're doing is roughing the surface up you don't have to get it perfectly flat each and every time we're gonna build these coats up also on our edges if you do have drips that's what you want to get rid of each time you don't want to have bumpy edges so use that power sander on the flat part of your edges and make those nice and smooth and then when we proceed to the second seal coat it's going to come out even better than the first let's get started [Music] all right we're ready to pour our second seal code let's get started [Music] now I'm not gonna push anything over my edges just yet I'm gonna get what we call the field of the project we're gonna get the majority of the inside square footage and we'll just push it up towards the edges and then when we're when we're ready to do the edges will have plenty we won't have wasted a bunch over the edge man this really brings this to life okay now I'm ready to push it over my edges let's go ahead and do that [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] I look at that edge so I'm just using those drips over the edge to coat my edges you're gonna you don't need a lot of material on those edges so you just push a little over get it to start dripping and then come smooth it on out keep that plastic clean and then any epoxy that sits over that edge on the plastic there's your reserve right there if you need a little bit more so the final step of this seal coat is what we call mowing the lawn we're gonna start at one end and we're just going to do long strokes so that everything gets somewhat even and then we'll go through and rub those edges one last time because we won't be pushing some epoxy over the edge in in different amounts and so we don't want wavy edges let's do that right now [Music] now you don't need very much torching on the seal coats you don't want to try to remove the bubbles with the torch because you'll burn your wood it still doesn't have a lot of protection from the epoxy so we're just gonna do a quick torching but a quick tip when you use a torch is I'm gonna have some dust in this torch so I don't want to start blowing this right on my surface so I'm gonna start off the surface let it start make sure there's nothing in that torch head and now we're ready to do a quick torching [Music] [Applause] using stone coke countertop epoxy on your projects is really easy to do as long as you have the right steps follow the steps that we're showing here in this video and you're gonna get amazing results we've been through the trial and error we used to put on too thick of coats and we would get problems with air air would almost make it white and foggy in areas when it was really porous would so be sure to follow these steps do your seal coats until you're completely sealed once you're sealed that flood coat is gonna be magic for you all right well we're gonna let this dry we're gonna put our radiant heater in here really heat this room up because we're gonna do a seal coat at the end of the day we'll get to seal coats done in one day we'll see in a little bit okay guys we're ready for our third seal coat we did our second seal coat about eight hours ago and it's dry pretty well but there's still a little tacked to that it's still very very fresh and because it hasn't been 24 hours we can apply our third seal coat without sanding if you're new at this I always recommend waiting 24 hours sanding between coats wiping the dust and applying another coat but because it's still tacky and we did this today we can apply the third coat without sanding we're going to apply this in the same manner with a squeegee we'll let it dry and we'll be able to sand and do our flood coat tomorrow let's get our third coat on right now [Music] alright folks we've got our third sealcoat completed we did that the same way that we did the first two we're gonna let this dry overnight we'll come back and we'll sand and we'll apply our flood coat we'll see in a little while hey we got our third and final seal coat all wrapped up here and inevitably on a wood slab project especially around knots and cracks or little stubborn areas you'll get these little tiny bubbles that just never seem to fill up they they want to blow air out cause a little bubble and that's the epoxy doesn't sink down into that area so I'm going to show you how to save yourself from these problem areas where you don't have to keep doing seal coat after seal coat we use a burnin stick we actually have pieces of our our burnin stick we use these all the time they look like a giant coloring cran and you can get them from a company called Mohawk we have a link on our website to the actual burnin sticks that we get you can get whatever color you'd like and then this will fill these little tiny problem areas we're gonna sand these bubbles down flush fill them with our burnin stick and then sand that flush after we do that we'll sand this entire top with 220 grit sandpaper and then we're ready for our final flood coat let's get started so I got a bubble and some bubbles right here we're just gonna fix these one at a time so we don't lose them out we won't sand the whole thing we'll just sand these problem areas and fill them and then move on to the next spot [Music] so now here you can see these little pin dots that are voids in our surface and this is what we're looking to fill this is exactly what would cause you problems when you keep trying to seal code so we're going to use our burnin stick to fill those right now when using the burnin stick just make sure you get it nice and hot at the tip and then you're going to rub it in like a coloring cran another thing I like to do is sometimes heat that up while it's on the surface and then just rub it one more final time so it really pushes in that little divot what we're gonna do is we're gonna use a razor blade to get most of this burnin stick off the surface and then we'll sand one final time with 220 to make everything almost invisible keep in mind when you're looking for bubbles you can sand those off and you'll know real quick was it a high point or was it a bubble if it's a bubble you'll remove the top and it'll become a slight divot that's what you're looking for for the burn and stick so just use your sander as your friend take a few minutes before you do your final flood coat to really look for any problem areas and then you won't need to do another flood coat we never want to waste epoxy folks so that's why this step really helps in mitigating those problems okay now it's time to remove our excess burnin stick after we filled our little divots and what I like to do is heat it up and then take our straightedge razor blade and just remove the excess it's really that easy now we're ready to sand the whole top after we have done this and take it down to 220 grit okay now I'm ready to sand because I've got all my little pin dots filled and addressed and I'm ready to get this to 220 grit on the entire piece we do 220 grit because that's a good mechanical bond you don't need to go higher than that it's gonna hide all of our sanding scratches when we do our flood coat what I'm gonna do is use 220 grit sanding disc right here on the edge by hand and then I'll do the flat part of the edges and the surface with my random orbital sander let's get started [Music] [Music] okay what we're gonna do now is we're gonna move our tabletop into another room that's a little less dusty the reason we do that is so that we don't have dusts falling into the surface of our brand-new tabletop with our flood coat when you're doing your seal coats doesn't really matter these are never gonna lay out perfect in fact you don't have enough epoxy at one ounce per square foot to level out so you're gonna get an imperfect surface and that's what we have here now we're gonna do our flood coat in our finish room and that's going to come out just awesome if you don't have a finish room you can use a PVC pipe structure that you can make and then drape some three mil plastic over that structure so that it doesn't touch your table but it will stop anything from falling into it it also traps the heat really well all right I'm gonna move this and we'll get started on our final flood coat we'll see in a moment okay guys we're getting ready to flood coat our project we're just gonna mix up enough material to have three ounces per square foot on this flood coat we'll start with Part B we'll do equal parts one-to-one ratio by volume not by weight we're gonna do Part B and then we'll add Part A let's go ahead and mix this up if you haven't seen our video on how to mix go check that out it's really simple just follow these few easy steps let's get started [Music] make sure your your surface has been wiped down with a paper towel you don't need to use a solvent or a tack cloth just wipe any of the excess dust right off that surface and you'll get a great flood coat it's also important to keep in mind when you mix your material put your material in front of a space heater for a little while so the the epoxy will flow out really nice out of the containers it's nice to have have it warm so that when you do trowel it out it's not really really thick like honey it'll trowel really easy just like we're about to show you you don't want to leave your material in the bucket for a long period of time if you do that it's going to heat up and generate heat and you'll lose working time you want to get it out on the surface and then you have all the time you need to get this bubble free here we go [Music] you [Music] now because I scrape the bucket into this mass of epoxy I'll use my 1/8 inch square notch trowel to go ahead and move that around so that it all mixes really really well now because we heated this up it's moving really easy on our surface so let's try all this out we're not gonna push it over the edges quite yet we're gonna get the field all coated and then we'll come through and address all those edges very very carefully so we don't waste any epoxy the nice thing is is if you take a little bit of extra time here you don't need to mix up more epoxy than what you need because you won't be wasting it over the edges oh my goodness look at this this is just this is just beautiful I love this project I'm very proud of it so I'm simply gonna go through here use my square knot straw to spread this out the square knot straw gets everything gauged at the right thickness so that it'll level out for me really well another thing to keep in mind with the square notch trowel is it's designed at this angle so at this angle that's about the angle that you want it when you're troweling out so that's what you're looking for you don't want to turn your trowel really really tight like this you want to keep it up at that same angle and you'll get the right amount of material on the surface all I'm doing now is just using this little bead of epoxy to start rolling it over my edge come through here and get some excess just gonna start addressing this back edge before I move on to the front edge there I'm just rolling enough over the edge so that I could come back and brush that in and get it nice and even [Applause] [Music] [Music] so now we're just gonna chop out any of those trial lines and this also helps to mix the material one final time when mixing like this you don't get any sticky spots in your surface because you basically mixed it three times you mixed it in the bucket you mixed it again using that trowel and finally using this brush when we do this it looks like you're just really dimpling and ruining that surface but we're so new in the working time it's gonna level out great for us and I'm just doing a random pattern chopping this out helping it mix removing any trowel marks and then I'll start addressing my edges and start torching when you torque you want to torch at least three times and really look at those bubbles when you look at those bubbles you'll see that you get the majority of them out with the first torching but you don't want to focus that flame on the same place for a long period of time come back in about five minutes torch it again and then finally torch it a third time [Music] okay I got a bunch of bubbles in the surface from mixing and chopping and troweling now we're gonna start our torching process we just used propane with a good burns o matic torch head you want to get one that has holes in the neck so that when you turn it upside down the flame doesn't go out we have a link to this product as well on our product page so you know exactly what torch we're using let's go ahead and pop these bubbles and we're gonna do it three times [Applause] again we're not trying to get it all at once we're gonna do this three times so just keep that torch moving in a nice steady pace I pretend I'm hosing off a driveway with the hose about that pace keep in mind when you're torching not to overlap over your plastic too long because you'll melt that plastic that's a nice hot flame so just be careful and be aware of your masking in your room so that you don't cause holes in your masking now what I'm gonna do because it's torched our first time is I'm gonna go address those edges but this time I'm not gonna roll my brush over the surface I'm gonna keep it right on that router edge and just do those edges with really long strokes okay let's torch this a second time here we go [Music] [Music] boy this is laying out like a sheet of glass we're just gonna torch it one more time and then we're gonna walk away will be all said and done here we go [Applause] [Music] hey guys we like to wait a few days before we actually install our legs so we'll come back in about four or five days we'll flip this over and we'll show you how we install our legs and remove the drips with our 50 grit metal sanding disc we really hope you enjoyed this video we had an absolute blast making this project I can't tell you enough how these colors glow that the pictures don't do it justice but the pictures still look pretty dang good I just can't believe how this came out I'm very excited about it I can't wait to use this table please comment below let us know what kind of project you'd like to see next would you like to see a three-dimensional piece of driftwood get coated so you learn how to do these 3d objects or would you like to see another River table with a new technique you let us know below and we'll get it out as soon as we can again thanks for your time thanks for watching this video all the way through we appreciate it if you enjoyed this content and it sparked some ideas and helped you out please give us a thumbs up and like our video also share this with your friends that would be great just click that share button and feel free to subscribe if you haven't already done that we put out the best content we possibly can on a regular basis feel free to call us anytime for free project support we love helping our our friends and and our viewers and our customers please call us anytime for free project support again thanks for watching this video and until next time remember from Stone coke countertops you got this alright we'll see you soon [Music] [Music] [Music]

Channel: Stone Coat Countertops

Views: 1,223,254

Rating: 4.8736663 out of 5

Keywords: epoxy countertop DIY, how to, Leggari concrete, overlay, concrete overlay, formica, repair, kitchen, bath, countertop epoxy wood slab live edge Epoxy Plus, DIY, laminate counter, laminate, epoxy, resin, art resin, woodworking, wood working, slab table, table, solid wood, solid, wood, epoxy table, table top, How to build a table

Id: wxBvAljrjFw

Length: 49min 8sec (2948 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 29 2018