How to Build a Raised Deck with Wickes

how to build a raised deck a raised deck is a great addition to any garden especially if the ground is sloping or uneven a partly or fully raised deck is the perfect solution for those difficult to use outdoor spaces you'll find a full list of tools and materials you'll need at the end of this video when choosing where to build your deck keep in mind factors such as shade and privacy if you decide to use a permanently shady spot be prepared to clean and treat the wood once a year to preserve the timber from damp and prevent algae growth avoid very wet areas completely it's best to plan your deck to scale on paper try to be as accurate as possible with your measurements bearing in mind the size of deck boards you plan to use this will help limit cutting and wasting boards or bearers when planning a raised deck you should also bear in mind that any deck higher than 300 millimeters off the ground will require planning permission when building the deck be sure to use structural treated timber and remember to treat all holes and cut ends of wood with two coats of preservative to start measure and mark out the deck area using pegs and string line then measure diagonally across from post to post if both the measurements are the same then you know it's square or you could use a set square to do this you can then remove the turf and all vegetation from inside the area to a minimum depth of 50 millimeters once the area has been dug place a post into position in the corner of your frame and measure and Mark out 100 millimeters from each face remove this soil to a depth of 700 millimetres being sure to look out for any cables or pipes as you go once the soil has been removed you should be left with a 300 by 300 millimeter square this is where you'll be adding the post treat repeat this for the other 3 corners next split a concrete block into using a brick bolster then place a section of block into each of the holes making sure they're firmly in place take a length of post that is slightly longer than you need as you can cut it down later and place it into the hole use small pieces of timber to create props that will hold the post in place until you're ready to post creat and secure them to the joists with screws it's important that you keep checking the posts a level as you go repeat this for all four corners now it's time to pour post creat or a concrete mix into the holes to make sure they're permanently fixed in place ensure the posts remain truly vertical you also want to create a gentle slope away from the timber post on all four sides to help rain water runoff and so prolong the life of the wood leave the post creat for around 20 minutes and then check it's set then remove the props create a string line around the four corner posts to help you to mark and place the guides for the remaining posts to do this measure from post to post to find out where the center point is then measure and mark out your midpoint 4 for hammering a post market into place bear in mind that posts shouldn't be further apart than 1500 millimeters repeat this until the v post markers are in place as you did with the corner post dig out the holes to a depth of 700 millimetres and a width of 300 millimetres and place the concrete block into position it's now time to prepare the outer frame if you're on a slope then always measure from the corner where the depth will be at its highest off the ground mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be cut the outer frame joist to length next line up a piece of frame with your mark and temporarily secure it in place for the 64 millimetre deck screw to insure rainwater runs off your deck and away from the house you need to allow for a slight fall in the level of the deck frame you should factor in a two-millimeter fall for every meter bear in mind is full when checking the levels throughout the build put your spirit level on top of the frame and lift until it's at the required level and when it is secure it to the other corner post line the next piece of frame up with the corner of the one you've secured and repeat this process for all four sides then double check that each side is level mark on the frame where the mid point of the post is and use a set square to draw a straight line downwards draw a guide marks 40 millimeters from the top and 40 millimeters from the bottom of the frame next use a 40 millimeter flat wood drill bit to make countersunk holes around each of the marks before using an 8 millimeter wood drill bit to drill pilot holes hang a washer on the end of a 100 millimeter coach screw insert it into the hole and hand tightened before securing it firmly in place with a 13 millimeter socket repeat this on each of the other corners next mark on the frame where the center of your support posts will be positioned and repeat the process of marking and drilling the countersunk holes put the post into position onto the concrete block making sure it's level before clamping it into place you can now drill your pilot holes before securing the frame to the post with a washer and 100 millimeter coach screw as before simply repeat this for all the posts on your alpha frame you can now add your center post and support joist bear in mind when measuring that these joists should run in the same direction as your deck boards firstly measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame at the opposite side and then cut a length of joist accordingly attach the joist to the post at each end and secure as you did the outer frame put the center post into position clamp in place and secure as you did the other posts make sure the post is level before continuing repeat this so the center post is sandwiched between two sections of the support frame once this is done secure all the new posts with post creat to trim the posts rest the set square on top of the outer frame and mark aligned on the wood of the exposed faces and then saw repeat this process for all of the posts on your decking remember to treat the cut ends as you go next measure the distance between the central support joist and the outer frame and cut sections of joists to length roll out your landscape fabric and cut it to size making sure it's as snug to the posts as possible it's best to overlap the fabric to ensure it covers all of the area that will be underneath the depth pour gravel onto the landscaping fabric to help hold it in place and further prevent weed growth smooth the gravel as you go it's now time to mark out the placing of your internal joists to do this you should measure 400 millimeters from the center of the outer frame and Mark a line using a set square this line is the center of where the first joist will be positioned repeat this at 400 millimeter intervals down the length of the frame and as an extra joist if your final gap exceeds 400 millimeters then extend your line downwards onto the side of the frame and mark pilot holes 40 millimeters from the top and 40 millimeters from the bottom before drilling using a 2 millimeter drill bit secure the joist in your workbench and attach a joist hanger to each end using 30 millimeter exterior screws to secure the joist to the frame place it into position with the center of the joist lining up with the 400 millimeter spacer Marc be sure the joist is flush with the exterior frame and use an extra pair of hands or packers to keep it in place if needs be drill 2 millimeter pilot holes then secure using 100 millimeter external grade screws and the supplied socket bit when fixing the joist to an unexposed side of the frame drill a skewed pilot hole on either side before securing skewed screws into position once the joist is in place secure the final 30 millimeter screws to the joist hangers repeat this for the rest of the joists making sure the top of the joist is flush with the frame before securing now it's time to measure out and prepare your noggins bearing in mind that the distance between them should never exceed 1,200 millimeters it's also easier to stagger your noggins so that you don't have to skew screws to attach them mark out where you want your noggins to be and measure the distance between your joists then cut the noggins to size put a log in into position and draw a line that marks the center of the noggin on each joist measure and mark 40 millimeters from the top and bottom on each side drill your pilot holes before securing the log in with 100 millimeter external screws then repeat this process until all the noggins are in position now that the frame of your decking is secured it's time to build the steps we're going to use pre-made step risers to do this start by deciding where you want the steps to be positioned bear in mind that they shouldn't be spaced more than 450 millimeters apart hold each step in position and Mark their edges onto the wood [Music] measure the distance between the marks and the next step and cut sections of joists to the required length then measure and Mark out three evenly spaced sets of pilot holes pamper sections into place drill the pilot holes and secure with two 100 millimeter screws at each end your steps should be supported on solid and level ground next put your first step into position making sure that it's flush to both the top and the side of the frame mark two evenly spaced pilot holes and then drill through the side of the step and into the joist secure the second place with countersunk 100 millimeter screws repeat this process for any other exposed sides of the steps to secure unexposed sides drill eschewed pilot hole on each side before skewing the 100 millimeter screws into position drill a final screw through the support frame and into the back of each step being careful to avoid the other screws that are already in place now take an off cut of deck board and hold it next to the step to mark where the fascia will go use your set square to help mark a straight line to show its positioning next use a chalk line to extend the line you made across the width of the steps measure from the far end of the deck to the chalk line and cut a deck board to length put the cut deck board into position in line with the chalk we're going to be attaching fascia boards to the decking so need to allow for an overhang when securing deck boards it's a good idea to pre-drill all fixing points with the 2 millimeter bit to prevent boards from splitting and if you countersink all drilled fixing points you'll get a smoother finish because this board is overhanging screw through the third groove of the outside edge to ensure it's comfortably secured to the joist fix with a sixty four millimeter decking screw when fixing the rest of the board always use the second groove in from either side to ensure the boards are straight secured with a single 64 millimeter screw in one end and then move to the opposite end and then back again make sure to keep spaces even between adjacent boards because timber expands and contracts with the changing weather you should include a gap between 5 and 8 millimeters creates a suitably sized spacer from an offcut of timber and use it to check the gap between boards is equal all the way along once the boards are all laid measure the gaps between the steps and cut sections of joists to lengths these will act as additional support for your steps and can be staggered into position and secured like the previous noggins in the frame if your top step is like ours then it won't need a noggin as the overhang of the frame adds the necessary support when securing the board's to the step always secure the front faces of the steps first measure the width of the step from the outer edge and cut a piece of deck board to length making sure you allow for enough overhang on each end so that the board is flush with the fascia then hold the board flush with the top of the steps and pre-drill your holes before securing with sixty four millimeter deck screws into the second groove on each side now it's time to secure the first part of the top board to do this place the board flush with the board beneath and secure by drilling one screw into the second groove and 1 directly down and into the section of boards below depending on the steps you're building you may have gaps that need filling as we do start by measuring the gaps and marking the required size onto deck boards remembering to subtract 10 millimeters to allow for the 5 millimeter expansion on either side secure your board and use your chalk line to create a clear line then carefully cut along the line using a jigsaw once the sections are cut put them into position and secure with deck screws into the center of the board and the first group making sure the screws sit centrally into the frame of the step below then repeat this for all the gaps your steps are now complete and it's time to add the fascia boards measure and cut the length of board you need then mark pilot holes into the second group at 50 millimeters from each end repeat this at 600 millimeter intervals down the length of the fascia finally attach with sixty four millimeter decking screws and repeat this for all complete boards it's like us you need to add an angled board because your garden is sloping then start by attaching Packers to the main joist frame this will give you something to secure the fascia onto then take an off cut of deck board and slide it underneath the top fascia until it nearly makes contact with the ground mark a line onto the top fascia to show its position then mark on the wood where the far end of your angled board will be and measure along to your line on the top fascia next measure the distance between the end of the angled board and the ground when doing this remove five millimeters as you don't want the board to be touching the ground at any point on your deck board mark where the full board will end where the angle will begin and where the angle will end connect the marks where the angle will begin and end with a chalk line then cut down this mark with a circular saw secure the board to the Packers using 64 millimeter deck screws and repeat this process for all other angled boards and gravel for an attractive finish and to age drainage around your decking finally if you want to add railings to your raised deck the new curve follow our step-by-step how to assemble deck railings video your deck is now complete so sit back relax and admire your handiwork from your brand-new decking here is the list of tools you'll need to build your raised deck [Music] and here with the material fuel here and this is the recommended safety equipment needed

Channel: Wickes

Views: 1,401,712

Rating: 4.6354289 out of 5

Keywords: wickes, decking, deck, build a deck, build decking, raised deck, raised decking, how to, how to build a deck, lay decking, lay deck, how to lay a deck, decks, timber, timber decking, diy, do it yourself, garden, gardens, landscaping, summer, house, home, family, gardening, wood, wooden, garden decking, garden deck, renovation, external, deck boards, noggins, deck joists, deck frame, power drill, hand saw, circular saw, tutorial, guide, step by step, steps, stairs, wickesvideo

Id: QsPQM6JPZJ8

Length: 17min 4sec (1024 seconds)

Published: Wed Jun 14 2017