How to Build a Ford 5.4L 3V Engine - Part 1: First Disassembly

hello and welcome to two Car Pros my name is Ryan and today I am very very excited because it is part one of our how to build a 5.4 liter three valve Triton Ford engine so this engine kind of has a reputation online about being something to avoid and a few years ago I would be right there uh with you because not a lot of people want to take care of these engines and maintain them they're really particular they need to be maintained and stayed on top of pretty much non-stop they're not like a regular engine you can kind of forget about a little bit this really needs attention but the truck markets really changed the economy has changed what things have worth are changed so rebuilding these engines is going to become more and more important as time goes on and trucks become even more expensive and more complicated to maintain this one's not that complicated comparatively to the new stuff that's being made now so the story behind this engine is it is my personal 2005 Ford F-150 I've already pulled the engine out I am doing a series on that as well I'm doing a series on uh basically the overview of that project project Billy this is the the engine for project Billy and we will be showing you exactly how to tear it all the way down and build it all the way back up in this many part very lengthy series I'm going to show you how to do every single nut and bolt every single torch spec every single upgrade you're going to want to do to make sure that this engine lasts a long time for you this engine currently has a hundred and eighty three thousand miles on it or something like that and I want to get this block up to like 400 000 miles eventually so we're going to build it very Stout very reliable and a stock build unfortunately I live in California so I can't do anything power wise because of emissions of reasons I have to get it smogged every two years so there's not going to be any fun hot cam shafts nothing like that it's cool so it's going to be a stock rebuild but that doesn't really matter it's going to be a great engine anyway and I'm looking for reliability over power here in this instance before we go any further let's go ahead and thank our sponsor once again Summit Racing they are sending me all kinds of parts to put this engine back together and it's cool because they have late model stuff as well as the classic stuff Summit Racing has been with us since we built our big block Chevy our LS and our Ford engine and they're helping us build this Ford engine as well so make sure you buy all your awesome speed Parts at summitracing.com so what does today entail today is going to be entail putting the engine on a stand and starting our initial disassembly removing the front accessories damper timing cover things of that nature so a little bit of a lighter day but there is some details you need to pay attention to and I'll go over those as we go along so let's once again jump into another engine build I'm so excited so the next thing we're going to do is take a 17 millimeter socket and we're going to buzz these bolts off and hold on to these bolts they're a little bit special and kind of hard to find and we can use them sometimes you're able to just kind of walk off the flex plate like that and sometimes they can be a little stuck if they're a little Stucky you know get a prying Implement behind here and just kind of walk it off and hold on to your flex plate they are often reusable so here's another tip that most people forget and it's this block plate you absolutely have to take this off and put this back on don't forget this guy don't throw it away it's a non-wear item you can just paint it and put it back so I have been trying to get this dowel out for a very long time you can see it's kind of chewed and everything it is just seized in there man and I can't get the engine on the stand with this dowel in there maybe you have some sort of great way of getting it out but honestly it is really stuck in there so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna grab a bolt the junk spare bolt to have lying around and I'm going to weld it to right here on this surface and why would I do that that is so I can put the slide hammer on this side of the threads and pull it off of there you know give it some Taps to get it off it is it is really stuck on there that is the most stuck on dowel I have ever experienced in my life usually you can just kind of pull them out channel locks I would try the channel locks first if I were you but if you don't you got to fix it with fire thank you now that may not look great but it's going to work great so I know I can hear you from wherever you're at you know saying oh you know I don't have a welder or anything like that but renting a welder is not terribly expensive and if you're gonna do stuff like this it might be wise to invest in one so what you want to do is just slight taps see it's already moving you don't want to like Wham like really pull on the slide hammer and there you go easiest pie so the next thing I have in my hand is an M10 by 1.5 this is the thread you need to go into the bell housing bolts and uh you want it to be about four inches long and you want to be made of some pretty good stuff and a pretty beefy I have two washers on there you want some pretty beefy washers on here it is a lot of weight so we're going to take the apparatus from our engine stand and install it on our engine you can just pick you know you just want some spacing between the bell housing bolts you pick you obviously don't want to use this one in this one but this one and this one will be okay or if you want to go up higher you can do that as well if it'll reach which I'm not so sure this will so we're going to use the uh you know this one this one on both sides so with all four of our bolts in and kind of loose on these top ones they are 110 millimeters they're a little bit longer because the threads don't start on the dowel pin holes uh for a little bit for a little distance and what we can do is lift up the apparatus in this case kind of hard it's fire as far as it's going to go for me you just kind of want it in the middle of the engine you don't want that guy too low because think about it if you have it down here now when you flip this thing over on the stand it could be too top heavy and get away from your fall over and causing bodily harm so I'm gonna lift it up as high as I can and tighten it down what are the 17 millimeter [Music] there we go and now that you know the bolts on the engine are actually tight I can tighten the ones on the stands apparatus and do everything in a cross pattern just for consistency sake [Music] and you want these pretty snug they are holding your engine after all [Music] [Music] right there we go and then I'm gonna go around and tighten these again [Applause] that looks excellent so often when I work with this engine stand that I like in this engine crane that I like the legs are often too wide to really you know want to make this work so what I found is actually easier in my situation is to pick up the stand and put it on there there we go not too bad and if the pin won't go in just lift one side of the engine up until it does and it should look like that as your finished product this is actually not too bad on the leg Arrangement so this is kind of what it looks like the legs they're not on top of each other kind of crisscrossed um you know I don't think this is going to work great and we can slowly let the weight off of our engine hoist onto our stand just like that and then get the engine crane out of there we don't need that guy for a long time so before we get any work started on the engine you could probably do this inside the truck might make it a little easier for you before you pull it is we're going to drain our oil grab a 17 millimeter usually just need to break it loose and then since it's at kind of a goofy angle it wants to come this way towards the engine stand I'm going to do my best to hold up my drain pan here to catch our stream of oil here for the record most engines have it on the side but this one's a little special there we go that wasn't that bad and we're just gonna let that all drain out and then you can put the drain plug back in if you want to or not it really doesn't matter we're rebuilding the whole engine so next thing we can focus on is removing our power steering reservoir and bracket I'm just going to get this hose off of our pump alternatively you could just Slice It Off but I want to show the recording quote proper way to do this so my toes is pretty much ruined I'm just going to slice the end off here so I can get it off just peel it off this fitting essentially now with the tension room should be able to just kind of pull it off of there there we go that's better then we can take an 18-millimeter socket and remove the power steering reservoir bracket and the reservoir all at once all right [Music] wow that's a good size bolt for you know just holding a bracket on hilarious you can just remove that bracket and Reservoir all at the same time there we go set that aside so the next thing we can do is unplug all of the electrical connectors all of our engine there's a bunch of them I'm not going to go over each and every one but they all basically work this way where they have a safety you depress with a finger and sometimes I've found that it's difficult to pull them off you don't want to pull by the wires so just get some sort of implement behind the connector what the safety depressed and then you can kind of just push it off like that so go ahead and do that for all the connectors all over the engine so after you've unplugged everything you might not be able to get your wiring harness out of there it's because the engine ground has not been removed it's right here and it's a 10 millimeter move that guy and with that removed our whole harness should come off once everything is nice and unplugged and ground's unbolted we can go ahead and take our entire wiring harness and I'm going to put it somewhere safe in this weatherpack box because there's nothing wrong with my harness my harness is perfectly good and I'm sure they are eye-wateringly expensive foreign so now we can remove the other coolant hoses this one coming from the reservoir and this one going to the lower radiator I'm just going to move the uh clamp back just like we've been doing and just pull that coolant off now we can just pull that hose off now more than likely there's going to be coolant and a little bit not too bad and we can remove this one as well here we go so the next thing I'm going to do is remove our power steering pump there are three 10 millimeter bolts and you will need a deep well for the bottom one and hold on to these bolts they're a little special and they pretty much only hold the power steering pump to the head so let's remove those there we go so it might be stuck on these dowels so just kind of Wiggle It Off like that next we can grab a 15 millimeter deep well and take off this bracket that actually holds the power steering line to the engine set that aside and then with that free we should be able to remove our power steering pump from our engine so we can take a 13-millimeter socket I'm going to remove all these idlers you just need to remember where they went so the groove ones down here and then two smooth ones and we can see that this one is no good anyway but it doesn't matter I'm going to replace all the idler pulleys anyway I'll show you the ones you can keep though just hang on to the bolt and they come off like that and keep the bolt with that pulley it just makes reassembly a lot easier even if you're getting new ones they don't always come with a bolt so just keep them like that and then we get the new one you can transfer it over so here is a non-wear pulley it is the water pump pulley this is typically something you can just reuse over and over and over again it's held on with four 10 millimeters I'm probably just going to paint this one and it'll be good to go so remove all four then you should be able to just kind of walk it on sometimes they get a little sticky on the center register there just keep locking it back and forth until it eventually comes off like that and then I'm just going to keep the bolts with this and probably just repaint it and reuse it then we can remove our tensioner here for our serpentine belt three 10 millimeters and I'm just going to replace this one as well a little spring in there can get old and fatigued and allow slop which I don't want so I'll be getting a new one at least for sure and again keep the bolts with the accessories so I'm going to uh you know just transfer the bolts over and we'll be good to go on this guy there are three 10 millimeter bolts holding AC compressor on and I wanted to point out as well when you're removing the engine if you're having a little bit of difficulty you can take these ac lines off and get a little more clearance but if you take the flex plate before you even take the engine out you shouldn't run to that problem at all and again keep your bolts with your accessory because look how special these bolts are so as you take the third one out brace the compressor it's a little heavy and hold on to the compressor anyway because there is usually a core charge but again I'm going to get a new one there we go and then we can remove our water pump and it is four 10 millimeter bolts boom like that and it looks like all four of these bolts are the same length so you don't have to remember which where each one went they're all the same so these can be on pretty good they can be pretty stuck I mean think about it hasn't been off here in almost 20 years so what you can do is just grab a rubber mallet if you intend on reusing this water pump I'm not I'm going to get a freshie and you can just kind of tap it brace some Taps from one side and another and there we go cut the water pump out of there so now you're looking at the back of the crankshaft and I've already reinstalled two of the flex plate bolts that I told you to hold on to and keep holding on to those even after we're done here I've just installed them on opposite sides and what I'm going to do now is grab my very long pry bar and just kind of put it in place like this now when I rotate the front of the engine my pry bar will keep it in its place and I can break the front damper bolt off the next thing you do is take an 18 millimeter socket on a long prying implement and affix it to our damper bolt keep it perfectly square and break down with gravity it's going to help us out sometimes you can just buzz these off with like an electric impact gun but sometimes they're on Pretty stinking tight this one's not too bad let me just get that guy out of there and don't forget the enormous washer get that to come along with it looks like they put a little bit of silicone on the end interesting remember that for reassembly so the next thing you need to do is clean out these threads really well I've already done that with some carburetor spray and a bottle brush but if you don't have that you can use a tap and get it really clean and spray it out with card spray do all that then you can take a puller which looks like this link Down Below in the description or you can rent it for free at AutoZone or place like that and then we can take the bolts that we actually got out of the bell housing it's the same thread M10 by 1.5 and then we're just going to start the threads on the tool there we go actually hold the thing just get those started so on this guy I've already lubricated this Center thread on the tool itself and what we want to do is make sure we get plenty of meat on the threads that go into the damper itself we can spin the tool out so we can make sure of that it's a 13 millimeter we want to keep that as flat as we can so you know if you tighten some go ahead and tighten the other they don't have to be all the way flush you just want the tool to be parallel with the damper and some are going to go in easier than others is the way it is so make sure those are in there but don't go too far because you can very easily crack the front case of your engine just make sure the tool is parallel with the damper but not bottoming out on that case there yeah see how see how the the tool isn't even reached the snout or the crankshaft yet so then we can spin this until that cone on the tool is perfectly sitting in the snout of our crankshaft just like that oh that's really good and then we can grab you can use a breaker bar you can use an impact tool something like that mine happens to be 9 16. and go ahead and start pulling our damper off just like that super easy then we can move our crankshaft positioning sensor it's eight millimeter and I'm going to replace mine but I'm going to hold on to it so I can make sure that the stock unit is replaced correctly with the right one sometimes they're a little sticky because you're just defeating that O-ring let me set that aside I'm going to keep the bolt with it so I don't lose it so the next thing we can do is remove our valve covers and the cool thing is uh the valve covers are pretty much exactly the same so we can remove this one for the PCV and hold on to this again this is pretty much a reusable item and if it's something really easy to get to I'm okay replacing it with that unit then we remove our coil packs they are a seven millimeter and with those removed you should be able to just kind of twist them and then pull them straight out now I've replaced these fairly recently so I'm probably just going to reuse these I'm just going to hang on to them but if you are doing a new Fresh build and you've never replaced these I'd go ahead and just get a whole new set because these skins go out like you would not believe perfect and then we can remove all the eight millimeter bolts that hold our valve cover on CE we're sure all the bolts have been loosened I'm actually just gonna leave them in the valve cover so I can't misplace them we can just kind of use a prying Implement right here to separate it might be a little sticky on you be gentle with it it's just a plastic valve cover and these are not again an on wear item you could just go back and use this exact same valve cover on your fresh build go ahead and remove that straight up and out revealing our valve train next thing we can do is hose down these exhaust manifold studs with some WD-40 on the top and the bottom because we have a great opportunity to get these off right now I'm going to grab a 13 millimeter deep well and remove those sometimes the stud will come out with it that's perfectly fine as well probably because we're going to put new studs in here anyway so that kind of works out actually saves us a little bit of time and then with our last one support the manifold and you can just remove the whole thing and get those gaskets out of there and throw the gaskets in the trash we're gonna need new ones so now we're going to undo our front cover here I'm going to start with this one on the top right it is a 15 millimeter so the way this one works is you take this off and then it gives you an exposure to the next tier which I believe that's 17. it was 18 millimeter and that gets the rest of this really goofy looking Bolt I'm going to put that somewhere safe because uh you know I'm going to lose it do the same thing for this one there we go and then the rest of these bolts I believe are 13 millimeter oh this one on the edge here is uh looks like it's 18. don't forget the four that are on the bottom of the oil pan it's looking pretty good so there's two more bolts that are kind of hidden by sludge they are 22 millimeters there's one again really strange looking Bolt and there's the other and put these somewhere safe because I can't imagine how difficult it is to get another one of these so now with all our bolts removed we should be able to remove our front cover exposing our timing set pull it straight to you yeah right and this exposes our timing set as you'll notice it's not like a conventional like LS or a big block Chevy or small block Port something like that it actually uses two timing chains because it is overhead cam it's not like an LS where it just has one in the center you use push rods it uses two big timing chains so that wraps up our first episode on our 5.4 liter three valve engine this is amazing that I get to build a fourth engine on this channel I never thought I'd even get past one so getting to do my fourth is amazing thank you so very much for all the support I I try to read every single comment almost all of them are incredible they're amazing to read you guys are the best community I've ever seen on this platform I thank you so much for watching if you found this video interesting or helpful please consider giving a like or even subscribing it really helps my channel out thank you Summit Racing for sponsoring this video and I'll see you next time

Channel: 2CarPros

Views: 17,445

Keywords: Car, Repair, Tutorial, How, To, diy, 2carpros.com, Do, It, Yourself

Id: QuNLrE3rrb8

Length: 24min 3sec (1443 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 05 2023