How to Build a Fence | Mitre 10 Easy As DIY

building offends is the easiest way to give your property some extra safety security and privacy from the road or from your neighbors everyone will see it too so it's a good reason to make sure it's built well and looks good the fence we're building here is a simple post rail and paling fence follow these instructions and with a good plan you'll be able to do it yourself now there's a few things you need to be aware of before you get into it firstly you can build a fence up to 2.5 metres high without a building permit but it's always best to check with your counsel before starting and if you're building on a boundary line you're best to talk to your neighbor about what sort of fence you're building its costs and your start time also download a copy of the fencing Act to make sure you're in the know next you'll need to establish your boundary if you can't find your boundary pegs get a copy of your plans from the council or get a surveyor and to help you out also it's important to check your council plans to see where all your pipes are located you certainly don't want to hurt any of those and also you'll need to call your electricity provider for info on underground wires because these may not be shown on your plans okay so now it's time to decide what your fence is going to look like and what materials you're going to use to build it and our situation we're just going to match the existing fence with a rustle and post for the two rails and rough sawn fence palings you could also get dressed or glue laminate pastes and a variety of paint finish palings and different sizes so now you can measure up draw yourself a plan and get your materials ordered a few days before you start the job okay the sites been cleared so I've got a nice clean canvas to work with the first thing I have to do is establish exactly where my boundary is so I can put up my string line okay I've got my string line up now not only does this represent exactly where my boundary liners as also represents the center of my post holes normally when I build a fence I put my posts and no more than two meters apart you can go up to two point four in this situation I've measured out and two meters is exactly where the existing fence was and I can see there's still concrete in the hole I don't want to dig all that concrete out so what I'm going to do is actually space my posts a little bit closer together at the moment I've got five posts I'm going to put one extra person so that's going to give me six posts which will mean I can get away from all that existing concrete using my tape measure and guessable our measure and Mark the center of each post along the boundary line then I'm ready to dig my holes which need to be a minimum of two hundred and fifty millimeters in diameter and 600 millimeters deep you can use a spade to tick them by hand but I've hired a post hole borer to make the job nice and easy so I measure and Mark the required depth on the August so I know when to stop I'm using a two-person posthole Bora so I've got it made in to help and make sure to clean the whole out before you drop your posts in I got all my post holes a dug they looking great I'm just about ready to throw my post sent ready for concrete now I've moved that our string low which was the center of our post holes I've moved that over a hundred millimetres I got to a hundred because our place is a hundred mil effects I'm coming half that which is 50 and I'm just going to keep our string line 15 millimeters off our post the reason for that is most of the time these rustle and posts have a few digs on them and that could affect our string line if the string line was to be hard up against it I've also put a string line at the top there's a hundred millimeters away from our Center as well now I've got two different fence Heights I've got one here that I'm starting from and one down the other end that's 200 millimeters higher so I've set the string line up using my laser to shoot a nice straight line and I'll keep my post full-length then cut them to height down the track now I'm just about ready to put my person I've got a bit of concrete in the bottom from a post the sarongs because we don't want our post touching the ground now also I got myself an offcut of forbit to here which is 50 mil folks I'm going to use that in between the post and the string line just to use as a rule and I've also got a couple of braces here with screws already in the end ready for me to screw into my pigs that I've already plunked on the ground because I'm working on my own I just have to get myself set up to make it easy so what I'm going to do put my brace up against per Pig and it's got to make sure that I'm 50 mil away which is the thickness of our block that's pretty good down there and it's about five min away so it says I just need to tweak that bottom over at EDD and will commit check that okay so that's looking good so what we'll do let's put a screw in our brace and we'll put one down here so just gonna pick up my brace and put that on the other side of the pig I'll do a quick check for plumb and secure the second brace at the top in the bottom okay that's looking great so what I'm going to do now is set up my next post use the same pin come back on to that process is exactly the same and that's what my posts braced ready for concrete I've mixed up former concrete as per the instructions on the back of the bag or left to do plunk that in the hole about 100 millimeters from the top work out any bubbles and let it sit for 24 hours I go spend 24 hours of concrete's nice and set the posts are looking good next thing I have to do is take our braces off righty-o so I'm just about ready to start marking out my fence post for where my rails are situated I'm just gonna match in with my existing fence here where 50 millimetres down from my string line here which indicates the top of my paling now normally you could go a maximum of a hundred and fifty millimeters from your top of your rail to the top of your paling so we're just going to copy in here what's here 50 mil down so we're going to keep that line all the way through so my first new post about 50 millimetres down from the string line do the same on my last post and then run a chalk line between the two indicating the top of my first set of rails and to match the existing I'll do the same for the middle rails now for my bottom rail ultimately I'd like to match up with what's existing but I can't do that because my ground level here is slightly higher than over there so what I'm gonna do is just take our ground level and come up 50 millimetres and that measurement there will be the bottom of our rail if it wasn't working and with an existing fence I would mark the top of my top rail 150 millimetres down for the top of the fence the bottom of my bottom rail 150 millimetres up from the ground and then split the diff for the middle rail so that's the bottom of my bottom rail marked on all my posts yeah there's a couple of different ways we can fix our fence rails one is to the face like that spanning over three posts or what we're going to do is take our fence rails and fix it in between our posts now when you start measuring out for your hours in between the posts take the measurement at the bottom and use that for all three rails I've already squared my mark around I've got a nail sitting on the other that's going to help me out so I'll just set that in there nice and flush with the front now you could use 4-inch nails or 90 mm galvanized nails to fix that to the post what I like to use of these 100 mil galvanized bugle screws reason for that is it's got to reduce any twisting or warping of our posts and our rails and it's just going to hold everything together nice and strong now if you are working in a high wind zone I'd recommend you use something like a 100 ml buy ten little coat screw that'll fix it a nice and strong as well and it's best practice to use three screws peer rail on each end for the our top rail what I will use is my strop to make sure I type those two posts in really nice and tight [Music] my fence rails are up they looking fantastic now when we put our palings to our rails we want to keep them off the ground about 20 odd mil so I've just laid a board down there and we're just going to drop our paling on top of that now I've left my line on here that's always been our level line and our boards are going to stick above it because we're not staying to this height was staying to our height on the other end of the fence which is 200 millimetres down so I'm going to use the string line to get a nice straight line later and then come back cut those off and then cut our posts off because I'm using a 25 millimeter thick fencing paling I'm gonna use my 65 milk galvanized fencing now to fix these and I'm going to be using my nail gun to to apply the nail through now obviously you can use a hammer now to do this a couple more little tips before you crack a nut when we put our board's up we're going to use our hammer and chisel get it nice and tight because nine times out of ten these boards have got a lot of moisture in them when the Sun hits them and drives them out more than likely you'll get a little gap so we'll try and avoid that and then fix them with two nails per paling on each rail and about every six or seven boards we're gonna throw our trusty level on there just to make sure we're staying plumb the whole way another weak tip is to use a spirit level to give yourself a straight line for your nails to follow a few rails from the end these are the remaining space as you may very well need to rip your final paling down to fit simply measure and Mark each in ruler line alone and cut it down using your circular saw [Music] the in folks have in place and that's all our feelings on I'll flick the chalk line on the wall here for me to cut the top on the palings off now I'm just going to use them a trusty circular saw to do that it's going to sit there just the depth of the palings and you could put a board underneath if you don't trust yourself with a nice straight freehand but however I'm just going to free here there and give myself a nice straight line then finally cut the posts off at an angle so the water runs off so there's our new fence just stick to the plan and it'll be easiest make sure you subscribe to the Martin YouTube channel for more great content or click here to watch more now

Channel: Mitre 10 New Zealand

Views: 758,480

Rating: 4.7907543 out of 5

Keywords: fence, build a fence, building a fence, how to build a fence, mitre 10, easy as, safety, security, privacy, how to, diy, do it yourself, diy fence, fences, border fence, create a fence, build my own fence, fence tips, wooden fence, timber fence, build a timber fence, build a wooden fence, lumber fence, build a lumber fence, lumber, wooden fence step by step, timber fence step by step, lumber fence step by step, privacy fence, wood fence, fence pailings, fence posts, fencing

Id: a1v03BW2SeQ

Length: 11min 14sec (674 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 11 2018