How to Build a Deck | Mitre 10 Easy As DIY

there's nothing quite like enjoying a barbecue or a drink outside on your own deck it's even more satisfying if you built it yourself it may seem like a big project but with the right planning up front and taking the job step by step you can do it yourself here's how before you begin you'll need to design your deck to comply with a nzs 3604 building code you'll need to draw up a detailed plan of your deck to find out how to do this watch our how to design a deck guide right here of course if you don't want to design your own deck you could get a licensed building practitioner or an engineer to do this it's also important to check your council plans to see where your pipes are located you don't want to hit any of those and you'll also need to contact your local electricity provider for info on underground wires because these may not be shown on your plans radio before we get into it let's have a look and see how a deck is generally made and what all the components are so down the bottom here we have our post or pile sitting on top of the pile we have our bearer on top of the barrier we've got our joists and then our decking now if you are building close to the ground you may need to use joist hangers so obviously we have our pile sitting on top of the pile once again we have our bearer now we have our joists fixed to our bearer using our stainless steel joist hangers and sitting on top we have our decking the first thing i need to do is build my profiles now profiles basically are a couple of pegs in the ground with a horizontal board attached to it now these are going to be really useful throughout the build what it does is mark out the exact perimeter of the deck the shape and size of it and it's also going to set me up or the datum or a level line to work off what i'm going to do is set our profiles up to the top of the post that way i can use the string line like a level line now we're using a 32 mil thick decking 140 mil thick joist and 140 thick bearer an overall height of 312 millimeters now i also want our decking board to slip nicely underneath our door sill there so i'm going to add on a few more millimeters for that so let's say 315 millimeters all up from the underside of our cell now that point there will give me the top of our post also i can level that all the way along to our profile now as you can see i've already got my pegs in there ready for our profiles to go on now i've pushed those pegs out as far as i can i'm restricted by our hedge there normally i'd go at least 600 millimeters past the outside of our building line now as you can see i've got a nail attached to my pile there sitting on our level line so we'll have to do is put my level onto that nail transfer that level line onto our pegs and then attach on our profile boards and i'll continue my profile boards along each side and remember the top of the board is the top of our posts now that my profiles are up what i have to do is run a string line to the outside lines of our house to get the overall of our deck so i'm just going to use my little level i'm going to plumb down from the outside edge of the house onto our profile timber plumb our level line down from the corner of the house onto our nail there that way i can run a string line that's going to be parallel with the house so i'm just going to hook our string line on down the corner and run it all the way out to our back profile and i'm just going to swing it around on our profile until it lands on top of my pencil mark down there that's it right there i'll put a mark here put a screw in tie that off lovely that's this side of the house now we just have to work out our outline for the other side of the house on this side i've run a string line parallel with the house but to avoid the pipes i've offset it by 200 mils which means i just need to measure back 200 mils from this line giving me the edge of our deck plumber mark down onto our profile and run another string line back to the corner of the house righty-o so now i've set up the parameters on the two outside lines of the house the next thing i have to do is run string lines parallel with the front of the house okay so i'm just going to pull our string line in and out so it just touches the side of the house put a mark there and then we use our trusty level plumb down onto our profile based off our dimensions off our plan i've run a string line out the front that's parallel with the back now what i've also done is measured from diagonal to diagonal on both ends to make sure that that is nice and square so we want to make sure our deck is nice and square it's really important so the next thing i'm going to do is start measuring our distance exactly where our posts are going to be we've got two rows of piles so i'm going to put two rows of strings in here and start marking out where our posts are now as per our dimensions on the plan i've got a raw piles that's 550 from the front of our deck so what i need to do from our string line there measure 550 on either end and put a string line up okay this is my first row of post holes now i need to start marking out for our second row of post holes so as per our plan i'm going to come 550 off the house and run a string line parallel and i'll do the same for my third row of post holes at the back here okay all my string lines are up next thing i have to do is start marking out exactly where our post holes are as per the dimensions on our plan now the first one is 200 millimeters from the outside of our building line mark that and then our next center is 1298 and so i add that onto our 200 so that's 1498 and 1298 to the center of the next two and then 200 millimeters from the outside to the center of the end post okay now i have to do the same for out the front and the back now as per our plan i've got four anchor poles i'm just going to label those on the floor now because they go 900 millimeters deep anchor piles help provide bracing and support to our structure then drop your string lines to start digging your holes now as per our plan i need a 300 mil diameter hole that's down 450 millimeters deep for our ordinary piles our anchor piles go down 900 millimeters deep i've got myself a 300mm auger on our two-man postdoll bora nothing left to do but to rip into it you can of course dig your holes by hand but a post hole borer will save you heaps of time clean the hole out check your depth and crack on with the rest like all my post holes are dug that's fantastic i originally set up my string line to the center of our post holes now my post is 125 millimeter square so i'm just going to move that line over say 62 millimeters so it runs in a nice straight line on the side of our posts and we'll do exactly the same on our other string lines next i'll brace my posts ready for concrete drop a block at the bottom and set the post on it now i've got a bit of 6x2 here that's going to sit in line with our string line that's going to help keep our post straight left to right and i've got an angle brace ready it's going to go on the top of the post back down to a peg and that's going to help it keep it plumb okay so i've just cut up some pegs out of an old bit of decking use whatever you like and we're just going to fix that next to our angle brace now it's a good little tip when you are putting your angle braces on bring them out of your work surface i'm going to come around here with my barriers of concrete so we want to get all your braces as far away from all your holes as you can possibly get them it's looking lovely now just do exactly the same for all the rest all the posts are braced and plumb next i'll concrete them in you can mix it by hand but a concrete mixer speeds up the job simply follow the instructions on the back of the bag righty all my concrete's already mixed i'm just about to put it in the hole now on a few of these i'm actually just going to use my spade reason for that if i was just come up with my barrow and dump it in it could upset my post and we don't want that when all your concrete is in leave it to set overnight okay it's been 24 hours my concrete's nice and hard i've had a few showers this morning but that's not going to stop me from cracking on so the next thing i have to do is pull off all our bracing next thing i've done is made sure that my string line is sitting hard down on the top of our profiles and i've given it a really good tight to make sure i get a nice straight line against our post so what i'm going to have to do is use my square square that line onto the post all four sides and then chop them off now just remember when you are working outside always make sure you have an rcd on just to stay safe [Music] rodeo all our posts are cut off to the right height next thing i have to do is cut a 45 on the side of the post the reason for this is my posts are 125 square my bearer is 90 mils wide so i'm just going to cut a 45 off the side of it so our bearer sits flush with one side of our post that way the water will just run off then i can start fixing my bearers to my posts okay i've just made up my double 140x45 bearer i've already cut it to length by getting my measurement off our plan and i'm gonna keep that in line with our outside building line there and i'm going to fix it to our pile using our stainless steel nails now as per new zealand building standards we're required to put a z-nail or commonly known as a wire dog on either side of our bearer to our post i'm going to start marking out my bearers at 450 centers for my joists to sit on 900 to the neck center and so on righty i've laid all my joists down at 450 centers as per our plan now we little tip when you're laying your joists down just make sure you check out if there is a bow in the timber make sure that the bow is always up because the weight of your decking will bring that down nice and level now i'm just going to keep this joist flush with the side of our bearer now as you can see my joists are a fair way away from the house i've done that because i need to attach a boundary joist as part of our lateral support on the ends of our joists so just for now i've slid them forward i'm going to attach the boundary joists to the ends then i'll slide them all back towards the house but leaving a gap of 30 mil between the house and the frame 15 mil for the overhang on my decking boards and 15 mil for water to run through so all i've got to do now is go through and nail my joists to my bearers two nails per joist i've left the front ends of my joists long and i'll wait until most of my decking boards are on and then cut them back as per new zealand building standards and as per my design i've got to put some anchor poles within this deck now company anchor poles i have to put in one of these 12 km stainless steel kits now all the instructions come with one of these kits so it tells us exactly how we go about putting it on attach all the components from the kit using the nails provided okay i'm just about ready to throw down my dick and before i do that i just have to throw some nogging in now as per the new zealand building code i'm required to put solid nogging every 1.8 metres along my bearer line now i've already flipped the chalk line parallel with the house allowing for my 15 mil gap for the water to run off between the weather boards and my decking board so what i'm going to do is put the decking board starting at one end on half of the door so i've already cut that in square and i'm just going to use my chalk line as a guide to flip this one through nice and straight so before i put my screws in what i'm going to do is pre-drill the hole because we always pre-drilled our decking boards so we're going to come in approximately 20 mils from each end and put in our stainless steel 75 mil decking screw now the reason i'm using a 75 mil is because my decking is 32 mil thick if i was using a 20 mil thick decking i could go down to about 65 millimeter fix your board down two screws per joist [Music] i've also left my decking boards long on the edges and i'll tidy them up at the end okay so i've pre-cut about six lengths of board and i've laid it down ready to be screwed now i've cut these boards so it's in a really nice staggered position you don't want all your joins to fall on the same joist so just before i screw them off what i'm going to do is place a nail in between each board on the ends only this will add a three millimeter gap allowing water to run through and then gonna put a string line or a chalk line on the outside parallel with my boards so i'm gonna fix the outside board off nice and straight to our string line and then all the other boards are just gonna follow suit after that and we get a nice even gap to keep your line of screws nice and straight give yourself a pencil mark to follow along the joist i've just about finished laying all my decking boards i've got two more rows to go now just before i lay those what i need to do is chop the end of my joists off because i've left those long for now and i need to attach my boundary joist which goes on to the end of those now also i want a 15 mil overhang on the outside of my decking board all around my deck so before i do that i'm going to take that decking board there off that nail represents the outside of my deck i'm going to come in 15 mil and also need to take off the thickness of our boundary juice which is 45 millimeters so that goes on the 15 that line there i'm going to do exactly the same down the other end flick a chalk line chop the joists off attach our boundary and then i can finish all my decking boards [Applause] joists are all cut down to rejoice is cut ready to go on good little tip just get a mate to hold one end and as you're nailing it just work your way along one joist at a time then fix these last two boards all my deck is screwed off it looks fantastic last thing i have to do is just cut the ends off to tidy it all up now as per out the front on the sides i'm also overhanging our decking boards 15 mil so i can see where the edge of my joist is in between the decking boards i'm coming over 15 mil on both ends now you could flick a chalk line and cut that off with a circular saw but what i'm going to use is my track saw now just to finish that edge off to take all that sharp daggy bit off it's going to use my trusty little block plane here you could use a piece of sandpaper if you like and there's our finished deck a great new outdoor living space and ready for a barbecue and don't forget to subscribe to the mitre 10 youtube channel for more great content or click here to watch more now

Channel: Mitre 10 New Zealand

Views: 580,228

Keywords: diy, easy as, building a deck, how to build a deck, build a deck, deck building, how to create a deck, decking timber, deck design, building deck, deck plans, how to build a balcony, build a balcony, balcony plans, create a balcony, how to build a verandah, build a verandah, verandah plans, create a verandah, how to build a porch, build a porch, porch plans, create a porch, how to build a patio, build a patio, patio plans, create a patio

Id: 4Sw6YJOcVWk

Length: 16min 45sec (1005 seconds)

Published: Tue Feb 26 2019