How to Install Click Together Flooring | Mitre 10 Easy As DIY

click together flooring is an easy way to update the look at your floor the pre-finished planks just click together with no nails or glue needed click together flooring is easy good looking and durable option that can totally transform the look of any room i'll show you how it's done before you start you'll want to choose your flooring there's a good range available to choose from we've got laminate planks with a number of options here the scratch wear and stain resistant so they'll last you a good while there's bamboo planks this is a great look a highly sustainable option too so great for the environment there's also the timber collection planks these are engineered from real wood and that's what i'll be installing today click together flooring as a floating floor floating floors can be installed over wood vinyl cork tile or concrete just so long as your floor is nice and level so the first thing i need to do is work out exactly how much product i need now i know my room is about five meters long by four meters wide so that's 20 square meters now also i'm going to allow 10 for waist that brings it up to 22 square meters now as you can see all the carpets already been pulled up we do have a little bit of glue left over on the concrete from where the underlay was stuck down now that'll come up pretty easy just going to use my nice little limbite paint scraper also going to remove our carpet tack strip as well and make sure to remove the little nails that hold the tack strips down as well if you need to lift any tiles use a hammer and bolster to chisel them up and also scrape away any residual tile adhesive if it's a large area although not coming up easily you may need to hire something a little bit more heavy duty from the higher shop now there's a few different ways we can lay our flooring the first way we can leave our skirting on and leaving a minimum of 10 to 14 millimeter gap between our flooring and our skirting that's allowing for our expansion and contraction then i could take our color match scotia they can go over top and that will get pinned to the skirting only now the second way is we can hire an undercutter which is basically a machine that will just cut the bottom of the skewing off allowing for the flooring to go underneath and the third way which is the way i like is removing the skirting now our skirting is only 10 mil thick and i need a 10 to 14 mil expansion so what i'm going to do is also cut a little bit off the bottom of our wall board that's going to allow plenty of expansion and contraction now there's a couple of different ways we can remove our skirting start by using a sharp utility knife to cut any paint wallpaper filler or glue now in this situation i'm not going to actually keep my skirting i've got some nice new ones these ones are knocked up a little bit now if you do want to save your skirting what you can do is get one of these nice little flat bars this will slip them behind the back of the skirting and you can use that to break the nails you can also use a multi-tool and slip it behind the skirtings to cut the nails now just while i'm here i'm just going to clean up as i go we just don't want any buildup of paint or any filler that may be there so when we put our skirting back on we've got a nice flush finish now i've got an off cut of my flooring and a little off cut of my underlay that's going to give me the right height to cut our wall board off so i'm going to use a multi-tool with a plasterboard cutting blade in there now in some situations like if you see here i do have a plasterboard nail that's going to be right in our way so what i'm going to do is just cut either side of it remove that nail and then after i finish i'm going to replace with new wall board screws you can use the same technique for undercutting any architraves just switch to a wood blade [Music] i'm just using my little flat bar once again to remove that wall board and i'll use a nail bar to remove the plasterboard nails so what i've got here is about a 1.2 meter long straight edge i'm just going to check the floor in all directions just to see if there's any hollows or any bumps what we're checking for is that there's no hollows more than three millimeters over the length of a meter there is one little place that's got a slight hollow just around here so i'm going to circle that with my pencil so that indicates exactly where i want to pour my self-leveling compound now if you were in the situation where you did have a few bumps in your floor what you could do is use a grinder like this with a concrete grinding blade so all i've got to do now is mix up my self-leveling compound follow the instructions on the back of the pack regarding the water ratio and i'm using a paddle stirrer on a low speed now the great thing about this product is actually called self-leveling compound for a reason it will find its own level so you want to just give it a light scrape around with your trowel and then just let it sit and dry i've given the room a really good clean i'm just about ready to crack into it now before i do that i've measured the exact width of our room from our wall board to our wall board and the reason i've done that because i'm going to work out exactly how many boards i need across the space of that ring so what we're trying to do is adjust the width of our first board so we don't end up with a small slither on our last board so we've got an overall room width of 4.2 meters we're going to divide that by the exact width of our board 190 now that gives me 22 boards so if i go 22 times 190 equals 4180 our room width four two zero zero minus four one eighty leaves me 20 millimeters short of the wall which means i'm going to have a 20 millimeter sliver which is exactly what we don't want so what i'm going to do is take it back to 21 boards so if i go 21 times our 190 width so that gives me the three 990 which is 210 shy of the wall now so all i've got to do is divide that by two which is 105 millimeters so what they're saying is i need to rip my first board down 105 millimeters and then i can finish laying all my boards and my last board will be exactly 105 as well now in my situation i've already undercut all our wall board if you haven't done that just make sure you allow your minimum of 10 mil expansion on either side now there's one other thing i just want to mention too you want to make sure that your walls are actually parallel with each other now because if they're slightly out now's the time to adjust it on that first board using my bench saw i'll cut the first board to size cutting the tongue side off so it sits hard up against the wall leaving the groove side on for the next board to click into now if you don't have a bench saw you could use your circular saw with a guide on it now as we mentioned earlier i cut this down to 105 millimeters that's the face width with the groove side left on so this is my underlay i've already pre-cut it to length so all i have to do is roll it out i've just put in my first board now i've just slipped in these little packers in behind it to keep it a few millimeters off the wall now just remember i've already undercut my wool board to allow for that expansion of 10 millimeters if you haven't done that you're going to have to either double up your wedges so you get to 10 millimeters or actually cut a 10mm packet to go in there now i've also cut our second board square so that butts against the wall now these two boards are going to click in together and i'm just going to lay two rows at once that's going to give me a straight base to work from now when you are cutting your boards for your second or third rows just make sure that you don't have any pieces shorter than 300 millimeters this will ensure the joins are sturdy so all we've got to do now is click them in together so we just keep that on a slight angle slip them in together and we just need to rotate them down okay now when we put our boards when butting them up to each other what we've got to do is drop this board in and we want to just drop it so it's just away from the other board end on so we'll just click that in place so all i'm going to do is use this little tapping block and gently tap the end of the board so that grooves into the other one you may need a hand from someone to apply pressure to the receiving board close to the joint to help them line up so you don't damage the joint i'm just about to put in our last board against the wall now as you can see it's about six inches too long so what i'm going to do is turn this board around i'm going to put that end up against our wall board and we're just going to mark where the top of the other board finishes now i'm also just going to allow about three millimeters for our packer so i'm just going to mark that there that gets cut off and then we can just slip it in then in goes the next board on the second row and then measure mark and cut the next end board in the same way and then we've got this lovely little tool here commonly known in the trade as a pool bar that slips in the end of our board then we can hit this edge to connect the two boards and then just repeat for the next few rows it's a good idea as you lay your floor to use boards from different packs as you go to make sure that you vary the wood pattern and also stagger your joints so they don't all line up i'm just about to lay my flooring up against where my dorsal hits the concrete so i need to re-bait out our flooring to accommodate around that so also i need to choose how i'm going to finish that edge off with what sort of a profile now i've decided to use this aluminium profile that's going to sit hard on the floor up against my dorsal and the flooring is just going to butt and underneath that now that's going to allow plenty of expansion and contraction on that too we also have this peel and stick that you can put up against your dorsal and that'll also allow for that expansion and contraction too but if you want to go with a more wooden look to match your floor you could go with something like this now we've got this wooden profile that finishes hard up against your tile or your carpet or over here you can overlap onto your flooring and then down onto something like a polished concrete floor now if you are laying more than eight meters in width of your flooring you will need to put in a control joint which is something like this here you can also get it in an aluminium okay now i'm just going to rebate around our dorsal so let me show you how to do that i've got a full length piece of the flooring and i've square cut it on the end now i'm just going to push that so it's about four millimeters away from our cell so i'm just going to mark about four millimeters away from the edge of that jamb and now it's going to measure the distance from that board up to the other board now that's 18 millimeters so i'm just going to mark 18 millimeters on there so i'm going to take this out of the saw and cut that piece out now once i bring it back i can then slide that back down and this aluminium trim will just slide over there nicely like that so now it's just time to click it in so i've got my profile here now i've already pre-cut this to the width of my cell and i've also pre-drilled it i've put five holes in there so what i have to do now is fix this straight to missile so i'm just going to tuck our underlay straight underneath there and i'm just going to cut that off using the aluminium edge as a bit of a straight edge because we don't want that going into our profile at all okay so now all i've got to do is finish laying the floor roll out the next piece of underlay overlap them at the join remove the adhesive backing and stick it down this will ensure a continuous moisture barrier and also help with insulation so i've just laid my boards and i'm just coming up to this corner and what i need to do is cut around it so i'm just going to take our board click it in like we usually do and push that up against our wall and i'm just going to measure the distance from our board down there up to this wall we've got 307 mil so i'm just going to hook that on there mark 307 there this piece gets cut off and i'm just going to also mark where this comes just about three mm away from the wall so there's my piece all nicely cut out just gonna slip that in take that all the way along click that on drop that down and slip the packer in the end and for my last few boards again i'll use my pull bar to help slip them into place and that's the floor laid the next step is to replace those wallboard screws every 200 millimeters or so remove our packers and then pop our new skirting boards on or your colour match scosches if that's what you've opted for now i've already primed that and put our first top coat on it so what i want to do is take an off cut of timber and i'm just going to put that on the top of the skirting board and i'm going to kneel on that that's going to force down and make sure that we get a really nice tight joint now i'm just using a pin gun if you don't have one of these just go old school hammer and nail take a look at how easy is how to install moldings for the best way to put your skirtings back on give the boards a quick clean with a microfiber mop take care of it properly and your new floor should last you for years so make sure you check the instructions for future cleaning and care tips as you can see the new floor has completely changed the look of this room and is something you can do yourself easy as you

Channel: Mitre 10 New Zealand

Views: 776,935

Keywords: Mitre 10, DIY, Easy As, click together flooring, timber flooring, wooden flooring, laminate flooring, wooden floors, install flooring, super click flooring, timber floors, engineered flooring, diy flooring, how to install flooring, interior flooring, indoor flooring, hardwood flooring, diy wooden flooring, wood flooring, tongue and groove flooring, do it yourself, click together floring, flooring, flooring installation, floating floor, floating floor installation

Id: Mv2rWwBt7gg

Length: 14min 32sec (872 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 17 2018