HOW TO BUILD A DECK : START TO FINISH (Part 1 of 2)

hey guys Brendan here me own tools aka BYO T thank you for joining me in today we're me building a deck project from start to finish keep on watching let's start it day one is of course one of my favorite days because day one is demo day and who doesn't love destroying things with a crowbar a sledgehammer a hammer or sawzall and those are just some of the tools I use to destroy this deck and as you may have just noticed I was actually stretching yes stretching before performing physical activity and yes I know that not everyone needs a stretch when doing this type of work but inevitably this is a large-scale project and it takes a toll on your body whether you stretch or not so making it a little bit easier on your body when doing in performing that this type of work definitely will pay dividends in the future so just you know note to self now I do find the easiest way to demo out a deck such as this is taking out in sections in manageable sections so I'm cutting approximately 20 inch sections with a circular saw then cutting it in half with a Sauza to make it a little bit more manageable and bring it out to the front where I have a nice large dumpster yes it is quite valuable to have just a rent dumpster that you can rent for five hundred to a thousand dollars just to fill up an entire container full of crap that you would have to take to dump which would inevitably have you know least five trips to the dump and that is just a waste of time and energy so make sure you get a dumpster now once the actual deck is removed it's time for heavy equipment and this is the dengue compact loader and this is just a perfect little tool for small earthwork projects such as this we don't really have to worry a ton about removing a lot of earth but as you can see this is the mini version and it can get through very tight areas especially backyard areas where you don't need to remove even your gated fence so that comes in handy especially when you're working with tight spaces now hammer in a steak and a string line across just to navigate and make sure that I'm excavating the proper amount of material as well as just the fact that I want it straight and a nice little straight line that's very visible makes that just a little bit easier now once you have all the earthwork generally wrapped up and ready to go I then grab my laser level and actually position the laser the point where I want the deck height this ax B now this makes it very easy especially you have a laser so you can pinpoint exactly where it needs to be right here is gonna be right underneath the windows better gonna be right above the deck yes there may close but it's in line with the other two French doors they have adjacent to the windows once I pinpoint in my deck location I then hammer down some VAT or boards and batter boards or just temporary wood structures that will allow you to figure out where the deck will be placed properly and making sure that it is straight and precise before you actually build it so they are very important now I do have an existing ledger board because there was an existing deck here now don't worry if you don't have this because it'll you can just go off the siding and I'm only taking the center point of where my footings are gonna be my Center is gonna be 12 feet off of the house is where the center of my footings are and the deck is going to extend 13 feet away from the house now the beauty breath is a dingo is that it has an auger bit yes an auger bit attachment that I can take the bucket off and simply install right on top of the same piece of equipment which makes life just a little bit easier and a little funner now this around cardboard looking thing is actually called a form tube and it's specifically designed for concrete footings and the nice thing about these is that you can literally stick them in the ground fill them up with concrete let them set and you're good to go which is exactly what we're gonna be doing today but first the dingo yes now I must be completely honest this is the first time I've ever used this type of photography and it is extremely satisfying to know that's something that would take me probably all day to do what it took me an hour to to drill all these holes just note that it doesn't always drill straight because it's hitting potential rocks and roots and that sort of thing so making sure you are trying to drill as straight as possible is much appreciated especially when you're trying to jam a 12 inch diameter cylinder into a 12 inch diameter hole now this deck is 50 feet long so I had to drill 9 footing locations that were evenly spaced throughout now based upon your neck of the woods this might differ slightly but in my case that's what I had to do now I'm finally going to introduce some hard word to the mix and this is a galvanized adjustable post base or should I say beam post base because it's actually supporting beams instead of posts because we don't need post since we're only 12 to 24 inches off the ground the beams are may set on top of this hardware and then the joists right there are gonna be set on top of the beam did I say beam or beam there I don't know I I promise I'm not actually reading something when I'm doing this I'm just going off the cuff which generally is good thing for the most part but sometimes you know you get a little bit of confusion anyways moving up this hole is fully leveled with crushed rock at the bottom for drainage 24 inches deep and I have a story stick right here this story stick and this line give me is going off of that laser level that laser level is going off of the bottom of that beam so it correlates to the bottom out beam directly your collates to that laser level and that gives me that line as long as I can see that red line which is very faint very faint but that's the one and there's only this level and this level then we're good now you just need to do all the other ones now back to my radio voice this is actually a very important step because if you don't get this level then the vast majority of everything else is gonna be even more difficult so if you start off with a level quality product and it's to be a lot easier down the road so just think of the fact that usually that story stick making sure that you're using a level really helps a scenario because you know exactly where the height of your footings need to be because as long as that red line on the laser level hits your black line they're all in line with each other which is perfect and once you have your footings properly installed ready to go set level done it is time for concrete and who doesn't love concrete sorry I'm just trying to get myself a super-hype depth to mix a lot of concrete by hand well not flow by hand I rented a nice little mixer right here as you can see and this definitely saves a lot of time and energy so if you're one of those individuals that wants to do and save some money doing it by hand more power to you but this mixer was only $50 to rent for a day and it saved me hours of frustrating mixing by hands so I personally was highly suggest renting one of these after I fill my hole with concrete I then take a miscellaneous piece of wood and screed off the excess I'm basically using this piece of wood as a wood screed just to make sure it's nice perfectly smooth flat and level ready for my j-bolt and this is a galvanized Jay bolt that'll be sticking exactly where that string lying in is that you see right there so that is a string line that I have all the way from end to end and that Center at 12 feet off the house that's exactly where I want all my brackets to be and that's exactly where I want all my cables to be they can slightly adjust these post brackets but you're only able to do so about an inch or two from side to side now it's quite surprising how much concrete you can actually go through with just a few forms I had nine forms and I had to go through 30 bags of concrete just to fill all of them so make sure you're doing your due diligence when trying to convert and figure out how much concrete you actually need I personally suggest a concrete calculator I use one from Dexcom and Dexcom is an amazing website that will give you a ray of create calculators as well as plenty of other calculators whether it's joist spans decking calculators railings and so forth it also gives you a unique aspect of editing and adjusting your own layout so if you do have a custom layout that you want to put on their system you can use it and it's free yes free please I'm not being sponsor for them use it it's a good tool to have especially if it doesn't cost me anything now getting back to my forms I always just putting some plastic over your concrete especially if it's a very hot day just because you don't want to have your concrete dry rapidly it'll is too rapidly because if it does you might lose too much moisture and it's not gonna harden properly now as you're letting your forms cure I then proceed to removing all the siding underneath the windows this is gonna be where my ledger bores placed and I need to remove all the miscellaneous siding and hardware because that's not how we do it these days it's not the 50s and we need to do much better proper waterproofing in order to accommodate a ledger board and that's we're done lumber comes into play now I'm using dental Emory's as a local great lumber store and I would highly suggest using them if you are in the Seattle Washington area but if not please make sure you're using a quality lumber yard because the quality does come into play especially when making sure everything is lining up properly now for my project because I'm working on a project that does not have any plywood sheathing I have to install a few strips of CDX plywood sheathing now make sure it's a CDX product because that's rated for exterior use I am then applying a membrane flashing over the CTX plywood because I want to make sure that there's no moisture getting through to damage the framework of the house after a technology board in place I then marked 16 inch on centers for my choice after I mark them I then install my fastener ledger lock anchors from fastened master there specifically for ledger board so it's perfect now because I have two windows that are extremely low to the ground I do have to not out my sheathing in order to accommodate the size of the board that needs to be installed now we're not running the sheathing all the way up to the side of the house because that would constitute me removing all the siding from the house which just does not sound fun but making sure your waterproofing it properly will guarantee the fact that you will not have water intrusion issues along the way over time you want to make sure you're putting your membrane flashing over the CTX plywood and then we'll be installing some trim in order to make sure that all the moisture is veered away from the house as you're installing the ledger board you just want to make sure that it's level throughout the course of the install we do have a good guide because we're gonna be going underneath a couple doors as well as couple windows and that gives us a good guide along the way but just making sure and double-checking is key especially since everything's gonna be fastened to this ledger board so if this isn't straight your decks not gonna be straight now once your concrete is fully dried you can install your post caps and the easy way to try and align all of them at the same time is a tie a string line to one end and bring it all the way down then once you tie the string line to the other side you can then adjust accordingly each post cap to make sure every single one is in line with each other after we have the post caps set in place I then bring my first beam just to make sure things are coming out to the correct height location now if I have a choice as well as a beam here and I put a level on it it should be level is it level well let's go take a look this was literally the first time that I did this and I had to just stop and say wow that was that was nice that was nice now once I knew my beams where me positioned correctly I then grabbed some we block fabric wrap and rolled it out now this will just block any of the intruding weeds that I'll have to worry about potentially because this deck is so low you want to make sure that over time weeds don't grow up underneath the deck up through the deck and a fathom beam correctly to the post brackets I then take structural connection screws and install them wherever I can I then take some metal earthquake brackets and Hammer the living daylights out of it so making sure you have plenty of screws where they're not gonna be moving on you whatsoever is always nice just a nice little precaution and it really doesn't take that much time sensors not many brackets to install now sex it may be a little bit overkill but I want to make sure that there is no ground contact to this beam whatsoever over time because that's the last thing I want which is why I am installing metal sheathing all the way across the front side as well as the back side in order to make sure there's no dirt and debris that's gonna be contacting the beam over time now this might be pressure treated wood but pressure treated wood can still rot over time so this just gives us an extra layer of protection now once our beam is prepped and ready to go I then proceed to rolling out the rest of the ground cover and then bring in all my choice yes all of my choice there are quite a few yeah over 40 joists and let's just say this deck is gonna be well built and sturdy as all get-out yeah nothing that beauties in me Creighton is not gonna be sturdy and this thing is gonna be solid like a rock Oh or like a rock now the fun part who's ready for a math lesson yes now this is the 3 by 4 by 5 method and it is key when trying to make sure that your joists are perfectly perpendicular to your house 3 times 4 is 12 that's where my mark is right there come around 3 times 3 is 9 that's where that comes and then 3 times 5 is 15 so if you go all the way across there you should hit the same mark which we do now if you didn't hit the perfect 15-foot mark it's not a big deal just adjust your beam one direction or the other in order to hit the 15 if it hits the 15 then you should calculate it out as the 3 by 5 by 4 method now comes times for installing the joist hangers which in every if you have a palm nailer yes a palm nailer is very vital when doing a project project because we are installing thousands yes thousands of nails and screws on this one deck project so having something that where you're not hitting it away with your hammer constantly tends to save yourself some time and energy now I place my choice into the joist hangers but I do not nail them off as of yet I first go to the other end of the deck and start laying out installing my hurricane ties now hurricane ties are basically a different racking system that holds the joist in place on the other side there are a few different styles but this style I prefer the most because you can place it in position without having to hold it in place there's two prongs on both ends which either holds the joist or can rest on the beam in place and again of course there's another great reason why you would have a palm nailer because look how quick and easy it is to install all these hundreds of nails in a very timely orderly fashion now one of the most important things you can do especially when building a deck like this is making sure you have proper water protection and here comes in play a metal drip edge flashing piece that we apply underneath the windows and doors but over the ledger beam we adhere it to the house by applying a few beads of silicon and then nailing it into place with a few flathead nails as you can see if I'm attached pitcher this flashing has actually had a 100 degree angle which is perfect for this type of application because you want all the moisture away from the house and in this angle will guarantee that it's not laying flat and subsiding into that little channel there if it's pointing away from the house you are set and that's what we're looking for now the nice thing about this flashing is that it does have a larger lip and once we come back and install the citing the sidings gonna be going over the top of the flashing which inevitably will prevent any moisture from getting to the framework of the house okay who's ready for another math quiz I'm trying to find the diagonal angle from a corner to corner to make sure my deck is perfectly square I pull line from one Center than the other to make sure that that dimension is the same my dimension that I'm trying to hit is 51 feet eight inches as you can see right there if it's not perfectly even no big deal just try and move one end to the other to try and equal out evenly hopefully it's not you know a foot off right yeah now that I like the position of all of my choice I then proceed to installing intone nailing all of my boards in place using 3-inch galvanized nails as I've said before in this video please get yourself a palm nailer especially for a project like this which we have so many nails but it's just so little time well your life just becomes so much easier with a palm nailer and this one is actually I got from Ridgid and I will be leaving a link in search box below on where to purchase one along with any other goodies that you so desire for this project once a toenail all might joists in place I then proceed to installing the nails on the hurricane ties making sure that these joists are not moving on you at all as I'm securing these joists I do like to work with a six foot level just to make sure that as I'm installing these joists are level and placed correctly sometimes the joist don't always come exactly the correct thickness as the one adjacent to it so making sure you have an even playing field is always preferable I make a thirteen foot mark on both ends and then take my chalk line and snap a line all the way down all of the joists this will ensure that I have the correct length for each board before I install my rim joists I then take my speed square and make a mark down where the chalk line hit each beam that way I know consistently exactly where I need to cut now if you don't feel comfortable with a circular saw by now you probably shouldn't do this next step because this is definitely a technical step that takes some skill and some strength I use my speed square to position my circular saw at the right location and then I use that as a guide so I'm cutting the joists evenly and at the correct mark nests may look easy because of the fast forward motion as well as this you know I'm a surgeon at this but it was difficult even for me especially when you're doing it 40 plus times so think twice and be safe now any cut that you have on bear would you want to add a wood preservative treatment on the end of the boards especially if it's in becoming in contact with a lot of moisture and potential dirt and grime over years this is pressure treated wood but as you can see from the marks the pressure treated solution that they use doesn't soak into the entire board it only soaks in about a quarter to a half of an inch and once you have all your joists prepped and looking fabulous it is time for your rim joist and yeah I really don't know why they call it specifically rim joist I did even look it up on Wikipedia and all that good stuff but you know nothing really stood out if you do know why they call it rim joist please let me know because I am interested I mean these are my salad days and who doesn't love installing a a rim joist while working on my deck get it oh the salad days do you know that no one knows what those meanings salad days means anymore come on it's your youth come what's going on did anyone read Shakespeare as a kid geez look it up okay so this is what we got here we have three 16-foot sections so there's me one there one in the middle and one on this side but they're all gonna be divided with a little divider board that goes right like this so I took the end there 1/16 plus the border that's gonna give me a break right there I have to have another break that's over there it's right there now if I have that break and that break leaves me this section this section is slightly under 16 feet but pretty close it's gonna be approximately fifteen feet eight inches so I don't think anyone's gonna notice that difference so don't tell anyone so hopefully got all that and if you didn't don't worry because in the next video when I'm actually installing the decking you'll know in detail why I did that now I am doubling up my joists in specific locations because I'm creating a picture frame deck that means the tire deck basically has a frame system around it as well as the fact that we have finer panels because we don't have pieces of decking that are 50 feet long so you have to have some type of divider panel now with these middle border boards I'm actually doubling up each side because I want a substantial amount of surface area for the divider boards to be rests on but I also want a substantial amount of surface area for the ends of the deck boards to be rest known as well as you can see from picture this one I'm talking about yeah just a little bit of extra support is always nice and again if you haven't been convinced yet of getting a paul mailer look how tight this space is yeah I had to get nails in there yeah right there and luckily I had upon me oh I installed some center support bracing this basically just makes sure that it's stabilizes these long spans because these are 13 feet long and having center support bracing just stiffens up the entire structure evenly and consistently which is nice now who is ready from some waterproofing because now that we have all the frame work done it is time for some GE tape oog tape yes so g tape is basically just a waterproofing membrane that you can place on top of all of your joists it really doesn't take very long and in all honesty this entire deck was wrapped with probably $100 worth of G tape and that could save the lifespan of this deck considerably now the reason why we do G tape now or some type of membrane tape is because the decking itself lasts longer than the pressure treated lumber below it yes that's pretty incredible and a new caveat when building decks so think about that next time and in the end you have one beautiful sexy beast of a framed deck system now I know it's not much to look at moment but for me personally there's a lot of time love and energy spent on this project specifically this and so now the next part is gonna be the fun part installing the decking and there yep number 49a booty done I know we're not quite here yet but we will be in beauty number 50 so please wait and see tell it because it's gonna turn out amazing as you can see thank you so much for watching please like the video and please check out my Instagram feed I post her weekly in any case thing for time and kids next time so there was at the end put in the last couple joists in I got a little too cocky and whoops yep definitely go spill there and even in fast forward motion you couldn't see it but let's slow it down just to see how rough it was that's a good one

Channel: BYOT

Views: 969,009

Rating: 4.7127457 out of 5

Keywords: byot, byotools, byotpro, how to build a deck, how to, build a deck, deck, decking, diy, doityourself, homeimprovement, decks, deck framing, home improvment, construction, deck demo, deck from start to finish, complete deck install, diy deck, deck building, building a deck, composite deck, deck building tutorial, how to build a deck step by step, home improvement, outdoor deck, do it yourself, how to build, ground level deck, deck ideas, composite decking, diy projects, frame a deck

Id: uZM1lcMaTJM

Length: 25min 12sec (1512 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 23 2019