Honda 3.5L V6 Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement- Pilot, Ridgeline, Odyssey.

what's going on guys today i'm going to show you guys how to change a timing belt water pump tensioners idlers on a honda pilot honda ridgeline honda odyssey and a bunch of other different stuff so this basic procedure that i'm going to show you guys obviously i'm working on a honda pilot but this basic procedure applies to a bunch of different honda models as far as how the engine's timed and things like that i'll put a list on the screen of all the different models that this covers but it's probably going to cover the entirety of the screen it's basically every honda 3 liter 3537 v6 from about 2003 all the way to present day so like i said there's a ton of different models that this procedure is going to cover but specifically i'm working on a 2011 honda pilot i'm going to say the new honda pilots are going to be virtually identical to this one so with all that said i'm going to get this thing pulled inside get it up on the lift and we're going to get started all right so this stuff over here is what i'm going to be installing in this video um this is a full timing belt you know component setup so timing belt two idlers uh a tensioner and a water pump in this box um the other thing i'm going to be installing is a new thermostat and thermostat gasket just because the vehicle is 10 years old has 100 000 miles on it and the coolant is already gonna be drained so really i'm already in there so why not throw another ten dollars at it and just put a new thermostat in and never having another problem for another ten years this stuff over here is gonna be some of the special tools required for this job uh first of which is the crankshaft holding tool uh they're relatively cheap they're 15 to 20 bucks depending on you know who you're buying it from but really you're gonna need this to uh to crank or tighten the uh to tighten the crank pulley bolt when you go back together this over here is one of those special sockets for hondas for their crank pulleys [Applause] if you look it's like a super thick wall impact socket it's just supposed to help get that crank bolt out um really getting the crank bolt out is probably going to be the hardest part about this entire job um so with that said like i said i'll have links in the description to all this stuff if you guys are uh going to be doing one of these yourself um with that said the first thing that i'm gonna do is try and get this crank pulley out and off because if i can't get the crank pulley off there's no reason to go draining the coolant or doing anything else because you can't go any further all right first thing we got to do to get this crank pulley going to be 22-mm socket remove the wheel all right so right there as you can see is your crank pulley but i'm going to pull this splash shield just completely out of the the inner fender here completely just for the sake of the video um you guys don't have to remove the whole thing you can you know just loosen some of these this corner and just pull it out of the way but it's going to make it easier for me to you know shoot the video with the whole thing out of there so i'm going to go ahead and remove this whole inner splash shield next thing we're going to do we're going to remove the serpentine belt to do that this is a 19 millimeter hex right here i'm pointing to put a ratchet on that and then loosen it and then what that'll do is it'll compress that gas strut so you can remove the serpentine belt all right now for the crank bolt now this is a standard 19-millimeter socket and as you guys can see you know fits no problem now the socket that i showed you in the beginning of the video is this so as you guys can see there's a pretty distinct difference between the two of these um the way that this one works is when the impact gun hits this socket it has more inertia as far as how it how hard it turns compared to this one because it's so much heavier so that's why this one works so much better than a standard socket so like i said i'll link these in the description for you guys that you know just want to zip this out with an impact i'm going to tell you right now you're probably going to need a cheater bar and a breaker bar to be able to get that uh crank bolt out of there just for my own entertainment this is a milwaukee high torque impact with an 8 amp battery and i think it's like three quarters away full yeah so i want to see with a standard socket will it remove a honda crank bolt i'm going to say that answer is no all right so now i'll use the upgraded socket see if there's any difference well that was uneventful so there you go guys that is why you spend an extra 20 bucks on that socket because it makes uh getting the crank bolt out complete completely painless that just pulls straight off of there there you go go ahead and remove that ring set that off to the side set that with the balancer because you don't want to uh you don't want to put the balancer back on and forget that because uh the torque spec on this bolt when we go back together is uh rather tight so now what i'm going to do is i'm going to thread this bolt back into the crankshaft and i'm just going to use that bolt as more or less just a turning tool to turn the engine over to uh get the timing marks lined up all right while we got this thing up in the air i'm gonna take this bolt out and this bolt out and that'll remove the serpentine belt tensioner top bolt is 18 millimeter bottom bolt is 12 millimeter all right so now i got it down on the ground uh you know got the hood open first thing we're going to do is remove this cover a couple quarter turn screws and that lifts off and obviously you know we're going to be working over here in this corner over here so the power steering pump has to get removed and just set off to the side um there's a motor mount down here that we're gonna have to remove as well um but first i'm gonna blow some of this garbage off the top of this thing just so everything's somewhat clean all right first thing i'm going to go after the power steering pump so this is a suction line coming off the reservoir we're gonna have to unhook that get this tucked up out of the way that was only a small environmental hazard let me get some rags and clean this whole thing up so the bolts in the power steering pump are going to be 12 millimeter i'm gonna do as best i can as far as giving you guys the location of the bolts on this stuff but as you guys can see you know this this stuff's rather buried in here and i can get my head in here and just barely see it but as far as getting the camera in here and it may happen it may not but um i'll be roll whatever i can as far as the bolt hole locations to give you guys an idea of you know where this stuff is bolted on from all right so as you guys can see i got the power steering pump sitting on top of the intake uh there's one of the bolts here and then there's another bolt down here on the bottom both of them are basically on the bottom of the pump so like i said they were kind of hard to record but you guys get the idea so with that said the next thing i got to remove is going to be the timing belt covers for each cylinder on each bank up on the top uh they're just 10 millimeter bolts so i'm going to go ahead and get these uh taken out so that's going to be for the rear so those are all your bolt locations on the rear cover um there's also a wiring harness that you know is held in here at the top you got bolts here here here here and here and hold the front cover on so here's your bolts in the lower cover there's uh one here one here here here here here here i mean like i said they all use the same bolt so when you go back together you literally cannot screw it up all right so at this point this is what we're left with um there's the belt that we need to change there's the two idlers you can just see the water pump and the tensioner back there um but obviously we have to get that motor mount out of the way so before i lower this thing back down the next thing i'm gonna do is i'm actually gonna take the uh the crank pulley as you guys look at right here and if you look at six o'clock right there there is a timing mark on the crank pulley so what i'm going to do is i'm going to line that timing mark with that little arrow pointing down on the block so i'm going to turn that 180 degrees align the two marks and then [Music] we'll be able to you know get this whole belt off of here and get the new one on all right now at this point this is when things kind of start to get critical as far as you know timing the motor so what you want to do is roll the the crankshaft over clockwise until the timing mark lines up on the crankshaft like i showed you guys just a minute ago after you get that lined up what you want to do next is come up to the top side of the motor and go over to this front cam shaft and you want to make sure that there's a number one on the sprocket and you want to make sure that number one is at the top so if you actually take a look at the edge of the camshaft here see if i can get this thing to focus so if you take a look at the end of the camshaft right here the number one's right here and just above the number one there's a mark on the cam sprocket that mark on the cam sprocket needs to line up with that boss on the engine block so if the engine or i should say if the cam is 180 degrees off because the camshaft rotates at half the speed of the crankshaft the number five will be listed at the top and you need to do another complete rotation of the engine on the crankshaft pulley so there's a timing mark there on the front cam and there's also a timing mark on the rear cam so on the rear cam if i get this wiring harness out of the way you can look there by the tip of my thumb and there is a mark on the pulley just like there is on the front that also needs to line up with that boss there on the engine block so that's the easiest way to tell if the uh the motor is in time when you go to uh take everything apart but like i said just be certain that the number one on the front cam is at the 12 o'clock position before you remove the timing belt if it's not at the 12 o'clock position you need to rotate the crank sprocket one full revolution until the timing marks line up again and then you should be in time at the top all right next thing we're going to do after the motor is all in time is we're going to remove the motor mount now to remove the motor mount i have a floor jack in the block of wood on the bottom of the oil pan that is supporting the let's say the right half of the engine over here that motor mount right there is what we're going to be removing um basically just put enough tension on it with the floor jack to get the weight off the motor mount so the bolts are easier to get out um but yeah once we get the the motor mount out of the way that basically concludes the major disassembly on this all right next thing we got to go after is we got to move remove this half of the motor motor mount so there are three 17-millimeter bolts holding in the section of the motor mount that is underneath the uh pcm here so [Music] i'm using a long extension and a universal to uh to get down here hoping to be able to get this thing out without removing the computer out of this thing hey so if you guys notice i took the pcm loose i think there were three or four uh 10 millimeter bolts holding the pcm in uh like i said i just took those bolts out to uh give me some wiggle room so i get this motor mount out of here hopefully there's enough room to get this thing out of here oh come on sucker you're right there so anyway this is a motor mount that you need to remove like i said it's underneath the computer kind of a pain to record unless you want to remove the computer and that mouth's kind of seen better days in fact yeah that mountain needs replaced looks like i gotta make a phone call so yeah it's a good time to inspect your motor mounts while you're here because uh that thing's shot all right so the last part of the motor mount is this bolt here there's one up here by my finger and there's one actually inside this hole here the one inside this hole is why we had to remove the other half of the motor mount because there isn't enough room to slide the bolt all the way out so this bolt this bolt this bolt 14 millimeter zip those three out and then take this whole piece off all right at this point you know the motor mounts out of the way everything's out of the way i'm gonna go ahead and pull this tensioner off now realistically you could just cut the belt once you have everything you know lined up like it's supposed to be and just you know pull the belt out that way but either way you're gonna have to remove the tensioner so so there's our tensioner out thing i'm going to go after is going to be this uh this idler up here looks like a 14 millimeter holding that idler in so this is what's coming out of here obviously keep track of that bolt because you're not going to find that at lowe's or home depot keep track of that sleeve [Music] transfer it over to the new one all right so this last idler is also a 14 millimeter and this one has loctite on it it's going to fight me the whole way once you get that loctited idler out of the way you can go ahead and remove the old belt if you look on the bottom of the crank pulley there is a like a little bracket down there that kind of helps hold the belt in just try a little bit and you'll be able to wiggle it out you know no problem you'll have the same thing up on the camshafts there's a little bracket like that to just try and hold the belt in so you may have to play with it a little bit to uh get the belt out of there but shouldn't be a huge deal i'm gonna show you this as best as i can unfortunately i told you guys no good spot to put the camera the next thing i'm going to remove is a water pump without taking out my light please i knew that was going to happen so i don't have to get out the hose unfortunately when you drain the radiator it doesn't really drain the block so much all right let's try this again hosed out most of my bay at this point i'm sure there's still more in there you can see right where i'm sticking that screwdriver uh this water pump is actually leaking a little bit you know obviously try not to damage the ceiling surface on the water pump if you're going to go in here and pry like this there we go that's loose that's out all right so what i'm going to do now real quick is i'm going to hose basically this whole area out i'm gonna hit it with some degreaser clean some of this up does some of the staining um rinse all the coolant and everything off of here you want everything nice and clean and dry when you go and put everything back together so i'm gonna do that off camera real quick i will bring you guys back when i'm done all right so what do we learn first of all draining the radiator is a complete waste of time because you're still gonna get about another half a gallon of coolant out of the engine when you remove the water pump so don't even waste your time draining the radiator to start with i'll probably leave it in there just because i'm sure there'll be somebody in the comments saying you should have drained the radiator before you uh remove the water pump and not so much big waste of time so the other thing you guys might have noticed about this thing is it does not have the right coolant in it it's supposed to have the honda type 2 the blue honda coolant the you know asian coolant or whatever it has like universal all makes all models in it so i have to flush out the system in this thing i'm just going to use regular tap water but before i you know go bolting anything back together i'm leaving the hole for the water pump completely open i'm gonna stick a garden hose in the radiator and just flush it right out the water pump hole and just basically just keep flushing it with clean water until i have clean water coming out of the block i'm sure 95 of the old coolant is out of the block but i have to do that before i go back to the other um one other thing before um you know we go back together is i had to find concentrated blue asian coolant um the blue asian coolant in concentrate form is not easy to find um i found it online it was like i think like 25 bucks a gallon or something like that not exactly cheap but if you're gonna flush the system like i had i had to do here that's really the only way that you're gonna get your uh coolant to water ratio right is pour concentrate in it because like i said i'm gonna fill the block full of water so it is what it is um the other thing i'm going to do while i'm in here i'll probably do it off camera because it's it's literally two bolts is i'm going to replace the thermostat like i said in the beginning of the video the car's 10 years old it's got 105 000 on it i'm already in here the coolant's already drained thermostats i think like 10 or 15 bucks they're pretty pretty inexpensive so i'm gonna go ahead and do that before we uh you know start bolting everything back together so i'm gonna flush everything out put a new thermostat in it clean everything up as far as the the water coming out of the the block from the water pump hole and uh i'll bring you guys back in a second when i'm actually ready to start bolting everything back on all right first component we go back together is going to be the water pump the dowels will pretty much hold that in place um all the uh 10 millimeter bolts are all the same so where they where they go back in really doesn't matter all right on the new idler bearing the side that sticks out a little bit that goes toward the block the side that's recessed you know obviously faces you it gets the longer bolt with fresh loctite right up in that hole fresh loctite on the bolt all right now we're going to get our belt in place so i'm just going to start the crank first and get that in there just like that so now what i'm going to do is i'm going to go up to the top side and you want to keep tension on this side of the belt at all times as you're routing it so you want all your slack to end up on this side with the tensioner on it pull this tight as you're routing it up toward the top of the engine you know obviously i didn't record getting this thing in place because quite frankly i'm more worried about this one than uh the one you guys are working on not trying to be a jerk but just telling you how it is so like i said you have to keep tension on this belt the whole way around and you want all of your slack to end up down here in this hole so if you look down here see this belt's nice and loose that's where you're gonna bolt the tensioner bracket back on so i'm gonna get this back up in the air and we'll bolt that tensioner on all right so now that our belts routed went ahead and bolted up the uh the tensioner and then we're gonna get the uh tensioner arm bolted up into place so as you guys are routing this belt i cannot stress this enough you can't have any slack between the crank pulley the front cam pulley under the water pump or over to the rear cam shaft all of your slack has to end up on the bottom side between the rear cam and the bottom crank pulley where the tensioner will bolt up so you want the tensioner to be taking all the slack out of the system you don't want the slack in between any one of those sprockets if you go to line this up and you cannot get that belt tight enough to basically stretch onto the camshaft do not turn the camshaft with a wrench i'm telling you that right now because if you do chances are you're not going to be able to hold it in place because it's going to snap to the next position and if it snaps next to the next position hard enough you will run a valve into a piston so just take your time doing this make sure you have no slack between the crank pulley the front cam pulley the rear cam pulley and all the slack has to end up down by the tensioner all right now at this point you want to make sure your timing marks line up top of the crank gear top of the cam gears up there once that is done you're going to pull your grenade pin [Music] your belt is now tensioned next thing we're going to do is i'm going to turn the crank bolt over a couple times rotate the engine around clockwise you want like i said you always want to keep the slack side on this side so when you rotate the engine always rotate it clockwise i'm going to rotate this around a couple times make sure that my timing marks still line up and make sure nothing's you know obviously binding up all right now at this point i'm gonna bolt this uh half of the motor mount back on over top of the water pump pulley um i put my hardware back in the holes just so uh i'd keep track of some of this stuff because there is a decent amount of hardware you got to remove as you guys found out if you're following along at home all right now at this point i'm going to reinstall the uh the body half of the motor mount so because mine was bad i got to transfer this bracket over to the new motor mount and uh once i get that bracket transferred over i had to go uh wiggle this thing back into place underneath the computer uh once i get the three bolts in the body and the two bolts in the bracket going to the engine block um i got a few uh you know little wiring harnesses over here by the computer that i got to clip back into place uh you know put the the four bolts back into the computer to you know secure the computer back down so i got the computer all bolted down um i still have this bolt here loose to uh to get the power steering pump you know back in place but the next thing i'm going to do is i'm going to fill the radiator radiator with coolant uh to do that i got one of these fancy vacuum filling units i'm probably going to shoot a video on it in the future but basically fill the radiator as you would normally would this just ensures that i have no air pockets in my system like i said i'll probably shoot a video on it in the future all right after you get coolant in the motor next thing you want to do is check the water pump make sure the water pump's not up here leaking really ideally you should put coolant back in it before you even put the timing belt on that way if it leaks coolant you don't have to pull the timing belt back off with this vacuum fill system that i have i was able to put vacuum on the system and verify that the system held vacuum so if it held vacuum it's going to hold pressure if it holds pressure it's not going to leak all right lower timing covers back on uh next thing we're gonna do first of all make sure the key is still in the end of the crankshaft uh next thing we're gonna do is put this little piece on don't forget it so if you look at it it has a bit of a bevel to it and the bevel actually faces out so it's kind of uh cupped like this just a little bit when you look at it so the the cup side faces out take the balancer put the balancer on like so like i said just make sure you don't lose your key because uh that would suck oh baby all right so get your uh get your persuader in here because uh this isn't gonna be easy [Applause] at least when you're 140 pounds i'm sure doing on the floor that is absolutely miserable and i truly feel for you guys that's why i bought a lift [Music] once you have the balancer bolted on the uh the bottom of the engine and torqued down uh come back up to the top put the two uh timing belt covers on the front and the rear once you get the two timing belt covers on then you can go ahead and bolt on the serpentine belt tensioner um and then you know kind of start getting the belt back in place obviously you have to uh get the power steering pump bolted back up as well before you can put the belt on but you can't bolt the uh serpentine belt tensioner up until the upper timing covers are on all right boys give everything a once once-over everything's back together with the exception of the wheels and tires and the splash shield and you know some stupid stuff but i'm gonna go ahead and try and run it see what we get it's kind of a uh pass or fail you know true or false it's either right or wrong [Music] so so obviously i've got some other stuff i got to do you know i got to make sure the coolants bled out um i got to add a little bit of power steering fuel fluid because you guys saw i puked it all over the place in there i had to clean up the engine a little bit just you know because i puked power steering fluid all over the place in there um but yeah i'm going to throw the wheel and tire back on it um you know put the splash shield back in it if you guys can figure out how to put a timing belt in i'm pretty sure you can figure out how to put in a splash shield uh so as always guys if you guys like the video hit like if you want to see more content go down hit subscribe thanks for watching guys

Channel: Repair Geek

Views: 81,705

Rating: 4.8862343 out of 5

Keywords: honda, honda 3.5 timing belt, engine mount, water pump, replacement, honda pilot, honda ridgeline, honda odyssey, timing belt, honda 3.5 water pump replacement, honda timing belt replacement, honda crank bolt, how to, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, pilot timing belt, ridgeline timing belt, odyssey timing belt, honda pilot 100k service, j35, acura water pump, acura timing belt, timing, belt, timing belt replacement, water pump replacement, honda v6, honda timing belt

Id: Ou-u5mNnTiY

Length: 33min 50sec (2030 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 03 2020