HOLDEN REVIVAL WITH DIY RUST REPAIRS FOR PARKED FOR YEARS CLASSIC CAR SURVIVOR AUSSIE 1 TONNER UTE

so if you haven't been here before this is the one tunner that we nicknamed Tomo because his name's on the door we pulled him from the back of a closed concrete plant here's what we got today hold holding one H and with a bit of a fight we did get him running and once we broke the brakes free and did a couple of little brake lines we actually got to drive them at the end of the last episode this is not in the service manual anywhere the [Music] same maybe it should be in the service manual just saying [Music] but Tomo's got rust issues and that's where we're going to start we stripped him out and cleaned him pretty well but once the rubber floor mat came out you could see he'd been leaking for a while both floors are shot and it was pretty obvious to see why he was leaking he's got a little bit of Plum rust there's a hole along there another one there and the same here on the other side so that's where this episode's got to start we' probably got a full day of floor pans and Plum rust so let's stop talking let's get into it [Music] [Music] so at the end of the last episode I chucked the seat back in but it's not bolted down I whipped the seat out just so we can get in there and I've just got two full floor pans I don't know if they're great fit or fit I guess we'll find that out but they're better than having them try to make something yourself and they're quite cheap that pair was only about 220 bucks plus post bit of a backstory on Tomo he's actually a 79 HZ not a HQ although the front looks like a q he's actually the poo of the Poo packs called a commercial they actually did have a different front bar a basic front bar but that's all I could get was a HQ sedan bar but the dead giveaway is in there the later model Dash so everything looks HQ except the dash Holden did them just as a cheap version of a work truck with the Press steel grill and that sort of thing but all right let's get into these pans if you were here last episode you'd know this seat and I we've got history why is that join to the seat shoting got to be shoting me do heading you are anything kidding me is there anything else he can get caught on the dash the rust safe build tool nice little withth well really get easier the second time around I think still heavy and if you're learning or you're wanting to learn to do Rust repairs floor pirs is a great place to start because the replacement pan is so big you're bound to get back into decent steel like up the tunnel they come they come right up into here so the Steel's pretty good the pan Steel's pretty thick and so you don't tend to have to spot weld the whole thing in like you do a guard or whichever the only thing I can really give you as far as a tip goes is don't cut the hole too big put the whole pan in there's a crossmember that goes across here somewhere maybe there and that's where the back of the pan runs here somewhere oh yeah there about there so the Pan actually comes to there so you can't even see your weld from the underside on the back you can only see it at the front and up here on the tunnel but we'll get to that for now I'm just going to roughly remove the Rusted section start to slide the pan in um and then when I get it snug will'll mark it and cut 50 mil inside the mark and then just keep trimming and just keep fitting so actually they can come out too I've got some new seat belts for for tomo those ones kind of they died when I tried to remove the seat but anyway that's another story all right seat belts Out start cutting stop talking idiot [Music] [Music] [Music] I that [Music] so that's just bulking out the steel and like I said you can see my marked line there I said come 50 mil on it I lied I've brought that down that's about 30 but that's still going to be okay and I've just roughed out this crossmember obviously this this crossmember is not removable unless you want to unpick that I'm just going to run the grinder along here now until that's thin Drive have a flat laid screwdriver underneath there and everywhere in between the spot welds see how it lifts up you can lift it up then you just grind your spot wheel down until that piece there completely lifts off and you're just left with the crossmember member lip and the same with up here that's the body mount if you see that's the thread for the body mount clearly we need to clean up all in here first but when I say clean up in there first I don't mean I'm not getting in there with a wire wheel I'm literally just going to spray a bit of rust converter or something in once this Edge is all cleaned up do say just stay away from the lines yes I messed up I forgotten I cut right up there but that's okay I'll I'll tack that up and so the next probably I don't know maybe 2 hours it's just going to be clean this steel back to maybe just there because if you put the pan in and Mark around it and cut perfectly to that line as it goes in it's going to go forward because it's sitting on top so if you cut perfectly at that line when it goes in and forward it's going to be a massive Gap there and I tell you the average Joe way of making a floor pan absolutely perfect and that is don't just get it in let's face it most of these welds you won't even see look along here cuz when you think about it overlapping this guy don't don't worry too much about butt welding and butt welding is when you you butt perfectly up to the edge and you weld between the two Steels like you would a panel but this one you're not going to see it there's a crossmember so if it's overlapped even 10 m you're not going to see it don't get me wrong rust treat and all that do whatever you want in there but as far as seeing the weld you won't see that one right the way across to there so if you wanted to get angly retentive and butt weld that bit there to there is the only bit this guy here that's all hidden by that and this fell here you can't see it for the shazzy so just grind it up put a nice little weld right down the edge there across inside the what would you call that the body mount torque box maybe and I'll get to how we're going to weld that that body mount torque box as I just named it probably wrong to the actual floor pan we'll get to that in a minute but for the next probably 2 hours I'm going to grind up all the way around there grind up all that section take all that off back to there and clean up all the way around the holes you'll never get one out in one piece because of because of those you know body mounts and cross members so just hack away at it get the bulk of it out get it back to that point and then we're going to grind all that away I need to just Nick through there a bit deeper so that when I do that grind that way I can lift that out and I've got to cut straight across there but I'm feeling like I want a pressure clean while this is out and I might do that actually I might give that a a good pressure clean off I'll running forward look look at the dirt in that one I think I'll just vacuum in here to keep it dry so I can put some Rust Converter in there but I really want to get that crap off the transmission or I or do I am I that only retentive oh look that's a fairly clog [Music] and there's other sections I'm going to have to go wider on but I'll worry about them after I'll get the pan in then put a patch there and there's a section there if you see there's the mark for my pan but there was a big hole there so I to make a little patch for that was quite thin there too that one might be a bit of a pain but anyway [Music] and yep couldn't help myself did pressure clean it and got all those Mount boxes all cleaned out in that crossmember and this will get plenty of time to dry out I've still got probably about 2 hours of grinding all around there up so it'll get plenty of time to dry I might even black the crossmember and the the the frame and then inside of them before I weld the pan in but for now let's just clean up all around the edges get ready to start welding [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Music] n [Applause] [Music] and this is sort of what I'm saying about I said a flat blade screwdriver better a che flat B whichever just grind into the top here till it starts to turn blue and then you can sort of see where your spot welds are just pop them off there's still one there just there let's see if I can get rid of him then I'll just keep working along that way grinding there we can see that spot where start lifting him up do you get all that up so I got him all ground up and I think I'll just give him a a bit of a trial fit because this lip you can see there it's still sitting up really proud so I actually think I'm going to take a little bit of that off maybe to there maybe just take that folded lip off and flatten him over you can actually screw them in like to say put a screw there like a self drilling screw and then weld up the hole later but I actually don't think I'm going to need to in this one I'm just going to put a couple of points of reference so say I might do that and do the same up here just so you know you're going back in kind of in the same spot otherwise you're trimming and it's never fitting and shit's going wrong all right let's give this a trim I'll just knock a little bit off this lip and Bash it down flat I just want to flatten that out a [Music] little I'll probably have to Tri that again now but that curve just wasn't sitting up against that seill I can't get my marks to line up and that's because this bit are flattened out now is just holding it away that direction so where this actually kicks in I'm going to take a little bit more off that and it should sit down a bit flatter and come over that little distance so we'll try that I just nip him along there because before that roll was rolling early so it was it was coming to about there and sitting straight up I want it to go either sit flush and finish there or sit flush cuz I can weld it along that seam there okay now I am going to screw it because now that Seal's fitting better that's all sitting right on the edge actually I can probably trim another fraction off that but it's sitting a hell of a lot better I got to get under and draw a line around the back on the underside of the pan where that body mount box Edge is that that box over there um then once I've got a line there I can just drill some holes and they're going to be your spotl holes but I need to put some pressure on this so I can put that right forward and reach and that's touch in that box now so I want to jam a couple in here I missed the [Music] Ste got it that time that's still a little tight there yeah that's good that's good right so now I'm going to get under I'll show you it's easier if I show you on this side I'm literally going to get underneath and draw a pencil line across the edge of that and up the side of that and that's going to give me a mark on that guy and then 5 mil in from the line I've drawn on the pan I'm just going to drill holes down it so I've essentially Trace that edge so I can work out what that is this one little bit tougher without taking that cross member out but rather than figing around with that I'm just going to draw a straight line there and a straight line here and when the Pan's in just mask my line across there and then Mark them out and you'll see the very poorly marked pencil line down there along there then along there so I'm just going to drill maybe one two three holes there maybe four along there um about an8 about an 8 mil bit too like I'm going to give it a decent hole so we'll get them in so I pop my screw back in I've drilled my holes and you'll see you can see the bear steel through there and if I flex that down I can get to that so I'll grind off the you know the the pieces of metal that are hanging out from my drill bit from my drill hole like there in a minute um but that that's basically ready to spot Weld and I've put two marks that's the front of the crossmember and the back of the crossmember that crossmember there and then I've done the same here so I'll run some tape across there and then maybe measure out I know six or seven across there and to be honest that's probably where I'll start I'll tack press the pan right in and Tack one of these guys first reason being if I start on the outside and then fin i' got a gap here I can't Flex it down it's not going to move so I actually want to push that right in get them down tack one of those guys maybe two of those guys that guy in the corner maybe and that cross member oh before I do that I'm going to Mark right around the very edge all the way around and I'm going to take all of the floor out within maybe 5 or 6 Ms so that when that pushes right down we've got the smallest overhang we can have and like I said before you don't actually need to do that if you don't want to trim any more around that you don't really need to it's just going to overlap more all of this isn't seen all of that isn't seen to about there just depends how far you want to go and if I start running out of time that's probably what I'll do it's um it's time consuming to say the least rust repairs and you know for Absolut abolutely certain if you weren't watching I would just walk over and start drilling but I'm going to measure if you're watching so if I come in let's say one there first one there so what's that 550 God I should have made that easier on myself shouldn't I top guessing Michael how far wrong was going my last hole was 70 mil oh 10 mil there whatever doesn't matter wouldn't normally measure it as I say i' just go and start grinding no Drilling and then we will grind then we'll grind up all these edges get them ready to start welding which I might come out a bit further in spots cuz I don't feel like cutting that off at all [Music] so I've sprayed some Rust Converter in the cavities and the crossmember and that body mount box bit um while that's drying I thought it will start getting ground up the one thing is don't forget although you're not welding this side don't forget to to grind them up cuz look at the big chunks of steel hanging out of that well that's going to hold it off your crossmember so you you'll be trying to close that Gap up and it's all those little Fellers that are going to stop you so I'm going to grind them off grind the back seams of this off and then probably put some paint back over it because that's going to be wedged up against the the seam so to speak so let's do that just in through here that's just rust converter and in that torque box or body mount box or whichever and then I just put some flat black but when you think about I'm going to have to take that crossmember out when we're on the hor later cuz I'll have to seam seal the back of that edge so that one yeah I'll paint that when it's out but we get back to that pan oh those chunks of metal they will sit on top of that and hold you up off that crossmember so I've got him all ground up and I've got my locate and screw back in and only the one because I still want to be able to flex it if you see up here I can Flex it down and get it closer to that guy there but everything here lines up and see there's my crossmember that one's sitting up proud so I'm actually going to do that one first think that's just the screw holding him so I'm going to push that one down tack him and that'll hold those guys all closer once I've got one tack there I'll come up here and I'll do one or two there let's just say why do them first well you don't have to but if you start say up around the corner or down here on the seal along here and then found there's a gap there you can't Flex it you can't do that cuz that corner is already fixed so I'm going to start there tack that guy and that guy maybe then move up press him down and get these fellas the rest of it you can Hammer you can push because you've got a little bit of excess there see there you can push him out right stop talking for God's sake just get welding and I tell you what I nearly forgot to do is set up that I never used to do this I used to just wing it but I can tell you you used to have a hot day then a bad day and you used to hate on yourself on the bad day that is saying just over 8.9 and I checked thickness on the old steel CU i' prefer to set it up for that rather than the new stuff and blow holes through this so in here you have to come over here you won't see it from there and I have to remind myself what wire I've got in it but so 08 1 mil we are five on the wire speed and 16 on the voltage I'm going to go just under that actually I'll see how it goes five what did I say a memory 16 16 I'll start there and that's what it indicates and I found that does take all the guess work out of it and like I say I never used to do that but that just takes that one bad day out where you got your head and your hands going what am I doing wrong it just gives you the best chance of actually getting a good result it's a good idea is what I'm saying a good idea all right let's well [Music] and this [Music] one and now like I said we'll come up up here I'll get one [Music] there all right I will start going around and start in that corner cuz that looks like that tunnel needs to flex towards towards me a little everything else looks good good good [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] and that's probably it for today I've just put some black H over I'm just about running out a daylight that was a full day and some of these welds you know they're okay I was trying to run about 10 m at a time it's not to heat up and I I haven't finished here because there's going to be another patch that's got to go in here because you know more holes and that'll do us it's well well after beat on but it's good good day um nothing worse than rust as far as time consuming but getting them in you can actually see the light at the end I got a couple other patches where the rust went a little bit further than the floor pan actually covered but I reckon the morning on those patches um and by the time I get sick of it it'll be time to take the wind screen out so I'll get a bit of a break from the rust get the screen out and then we'll do some plenum rust but anyway the bottoms of the plum are good um I ran the hose through it looked up from underneath the dash it's there's no holes there it's just what's around the windscreen so anyway we'll deal with that in the morning and I spoke about good or bad days on the welder well I started off thinking what is wrong with me but then I just figured out my settings on my helmet were way too dark I literally just couldn't see what I was doing I at one stage I ended up beside the weld or beside the butt joint instead of in the butt joint I lit you ran a weld right up next to where I should have been but anyway I sorted out and one thing with floor pans are saying have a go at them you don't really need to seam weld the whole thing in I think sometimes we get carried away with thinking how good they got to be no one's going to see the welding from underneath that car unless I run over a pedestrian I think they've probably got bigger issues at that point than my welding but when I'm done I will get up on the Hoist or even just Jack it up where it is seam seal the inner Edge or the the the The Edge under the car cuz as I said I didn't actually butt them like that I've actually 10 mil overlapped them 10 mil yeah right whatever Mill and the reason I say we overthink floor pans and stuff like that and seam welding the whole things are just spot welded in so they're not seam welded to start with I can actually show you can't now cuz I'm running out of light but I can actually show where the front pans meet the rear pans you can see the hard edge of the of the panel it's completely visible it's not welded at all it's just spot welded and then seam sealed and the factory seam seal would be 10 mil thick in spots they' literally just slapped it on and I might do the same but anyway I've actually got to go and get some seam seal that would be a good thing but we've got tomorrow to get into those plums and that before I have to worry about that anyway stop talking I'll see you in the morning so we'll probably start off this morning with this little fether here there was holes all through there that were outside of uh my floor pan and that was the one spot that I really couldn't weld it was just blowing hole so I might actually cut a strip that goes right up to about there like that I think and then we've got the patch there another little patch there but I'll show you what I mean I was babbling on about the spot welding this is what I was saying here here this is all spot welded you can see the edge of the metal there where they're overlapped and then it's spot welded and just look at that that's seam sealer the factory just goop it on over the top of everything so there's nothing to really say that you couldn't do exactly the same look that's not even the same profile there that's flat and then ribbed and then they just smash it with seam sealer there's nothing to say that down the side of here you couldn't do the same just spot welded it on I've seen welded across the back there not well but I've done it so there's really nothing to say you couldn't spot weld all the way around and I don't mean drill a hole and plug welder I mean do a 20 M run leave a gap 20 mil run it's exactly what that is don't overthink them just get them in for now let's start making a patch for there there that's going to be a tough one too and over there I'm just going to start by measuring a a rectangle cutting that out maybe a bit longer cutting that out of some panel steel and then just butt weld it in I think shape it as I go so about 430 just to make sure I've covered that by about 60 and that'll do I said 460 that's 500 that'll be perfect I'll make it 70 cuz that edge is on the piss of bit it's straight that floor pan was curved slightly so I'll just run along that and we'll start from there right kind of wanted to use the grinder but it's pretty early I don't really want to be that neighbor I probably already am that neighor but maybe just not today for the rest of the day I will be that nebor bit at least it won't be early whatever wasn't that bad I suppose I didn't do a very good job at that bit did I oh God sfe maybe for an hour or two I'll just try and cut it so I'm just l just trying to push that into that curve there but don't worry too much about this curve right now I'm just going to get this bottom Edge somewhere near it and I'll just keep trimming I got to about an hour before I can really fire up the grinder so you know without being that neighbor so if I can get see there's a gap there so if I keep trimming here and keep dropping that down to close that Gap it'll that'll tack it there and just lay him over and start I'll cut and butt across here I'll show you what I mean by that later but that's actually quite good there but then the Gap opens here so if I take more off that edge there bring it all down and I'm well past so I'm well past my rust so I can knock the end off that but I won't just yet so I'll trim that again see if we can bring him down a fraction more pretty time consuming but it's good when it's done I got carpet I got door trims I got new rubbers coming Tomo won't know himself I've taken that back a fair bit more than I thought it was going [Music] to okay so that's nothing like it but that'll do for now very sophisticated marking process but I can't even see where it [Music] was the looks of it I'm going to have seven or 17 goes of this all right so time's up Grinder's come out I've cleaned up the steel cleaned up around it now I'm not going to cut that as of yet you'll see why I'm actually going to start tacking this in cuz there's so much shape there I'm just going to start tacking it in and I've put shape in this end but nothing in that end and then I'm going to cut and butt it which that is I'll put a couple of tacks along here till I get about there and then I'm just going to tack along the top there then run the grinder in that way and anyway you'll see but for now I'm just going to tack the bottom in Get Him in place and then we'll cut and but the rest see if we can't move him in the F right let's get into it stop [Music] talking turn the gas on you straight up first world bird ni [Music] work marvelous one happens when you turn the gas on [Music] mik and here's where we start getting creative I'm going to run the grinder wheel just along the edge there and create a a butt see if that's overlapping course you can't you're way back there but it it is like you can feel the edge of it give you there's an edge there so I'm going to get that 1 M disc just run along the edge there till I get a tiny little Gap and then I'm going to slice in the end of that right at the edge of that piece of Steel and just push him in to the Gap here we [Music] go okay that was terrible but it got it done now if you notice you're going on a slight angle so you're not creating a gap like that if you think of the steel how am I going to show you that how am I going to show you that instead of the cut being straight through like that you've now cut it on an angle so now when you push it does that make sense so if I push that shut [Music] down I can but that up [Music] flush I don't even have to push it little a hole good one Mike [Music] [Music] and now going up there I'll go in the same if I can get the grinder in that is [Music] [Applause] [Music] and because you cuz you're cutting through the scrap you'll be able to take off from the back cuz it's actually cutting through this steel here so it's cutting it off and we'll start coming along here [Music] by the time I get to here I'm going to have to shake that pretty well but I think that'll be [Music] okay and you're just checking your lip as you go as you're cutting it you're creating a gap so that the steel can push back in you should be able to get it perfectly flush a little bit of a high spot there and so now all those spot wields that were there have been cut down to this one so I'm might put another one down here cut through that one and then you just keep coming down so you so that's perfectly no lip there where's me pencil there's no rid in air whereas before [Music] it's little right there ignore that hey anyway I'll keep going I'll I'll go with this bit it's nice and simple so I'll just cut that I'll tack there cut that spot R and keep bringing that flat butt down to about here and then we'll pick up when we get down [Music] there so now we've cut all the spot wields all the way through there cut it with the grinder and that's all flush that one's a bit actually Michael but that's flush all the way along there now in the bottom right to here and here um and I'm going to use a fancy ass Hammer only cuz you're watching if you weren't I'd probably just get a 4 lb sledge but now try and bend that into that shape and try and get that closer all right so that's all within a couple of M it's within pushing distance to get it to the right shape so I'm going to put a tack in that [Music] corner maybe two um then cut that guy slice down that through that and just start pushing back till I get flush to there and the same up there that's it I'll grind it off make sure it's right and then we'll just go around and seam weld it here it's that easy [Music] [Music] [Music] that one's going to be hard to cut through any right let's give that a grind up make sure we're flush all the way around and then we'll seam weld it so that's him he's in and if you're using that sort of cut and butt method along say a body panel when it comes to seam welding just go a little slower I rushed that and just literally stitched that along as I went and it did suck in a bit it's sort of pulled in a little bit there and I didn't end up making that guy flush I couldn't get the grinder in there properly but it's pretty good along there down there it's good enough for me that's for sure and if you're wondering hang on but you never cut the back out of that now as you're cutting the grinder down that way you're actually cutting the steel behind it out to the point where there it is there I dragged it out from under the car but that was the piece so as you're pushing your grind down on an angle down that way you're literally cutting along that top Edge you can actually see the tack welds then the grinder and that was the bit from there so now that's perfectly buttered up on the other side I can just put some brush on down it once we get it on the ho but for now I've got that one to do that one to do I might get stuck into them and I'll I'll catch up with you guys when I start pulling a screen but I got to rip into these I'm just going to do them the same way so we'll hook into that [Music] and yeah I know what you think thinking well I don't really but I'm going to have a crack at it you're thinking me that had ribs in it look but you know what I don't miss them this is just a I think they call it gal cold galvanizing paint I don't know I just bought it look good Zinc cold galvanizing and I'm going to rip the seat belts out of this guy now because other than seam sealer um which we'll do in a second I'm going to Black everywhere seat belts can come out as I've got new ones that'll give me I'll pull that away a bit and I'll black right up into here because the seat cover I've got for the seat is black so I have a little bit of black on the dash black seat cover black back of the cab how wait if you want to get super neat with your your seam ceiling you could always mask off each side of your seam like that which I'm not going to do I'm just showing you and then get your seam sealer and just run it down the middle just so you go like that and then pull your tape off kind of like that leaves a neat Edge and I won't say it looks Factory because that's Factory it'll look better than Factory but anyway I'm not doing it I'm just going to brush it over just sort of show you I'm actually going to go back over the factory seams there and there and then just go right round mine I think how neat the factory seems were was really determined by the time in the day Friday at 4:00 rough Monday 9:00 probably still rough in between you might be right this is just in case you've got a little pinhole or something it's porous doesn't let any moisture into your into your world you can put it as little or as much as you want I'm not going to waste too much up against there I guess is probably where you want to do the most um just if you have only spot welded it like I have and moisture gets in there for whatever reason even wet shoes or something I suppose you can get moisture down there we actually what about coming up from underneath rainy day so that's the inner seal anyway you get the point seal it and seam sealing might seem a little a little bit rough but when you think about it if you do get a little bit of moisture in here now even if it's only from the bottoms of your shoes or whichever a pin hole and a weld is where it's going to start although it does help to hide shitty welds just saying could have got a job with the factory couldn't I looking at that you guys that love Concourse Restorations do you want to copy that one restos these days are 10 times better than Factory and I sort only just started to figure out the technique there as I was finishing you're actually better off putting a good blob there and then smearing it through rather than trying to paint it on too thin you know it looks bloody terrible I will paint it black I prefer to look bloody terrible and not rust again anyway let's get some black on it so now I've done some Dreadful masking to match my absolute lack of preparation but I'm going to throw some black right through here just to give us a clean starting point black from the bottom of the dash down down up through the cab and I've just sanded those bits they're about the only bit you'll see once the seat goes back in so I wanted them to look good clearly all right we'll throw some black in [Music] here so she's getting late in the afternoon but we're all blacked and looking amazing but last thing this AO I think we're going to start pulling trims off around the screen some wipers cuz in the morning that screen's coming out so we can do more rust in the plenums don't forget bag everything little screws like that gone they the sort of little things that you walk around for hours going where are those screws that's a little bit worse than I wanted but it's okay whatever we'll get that out in the morning now I've changed mind I'm going to cut the screen out tonight but then just leave it in case we get a bit of weather and there's two types of screens a urethane screener if this one's old enough which I can't tell they'll actually have two little wires somewhere and you actually heat them and then it softens uh what would you call it the the mastic the glue whatever you want to call it it softens that and you able to get them out this is not the original screen because of that dent it runs all the way up there dented the trims the dash so that smashed the screen so this is not the original but I just got to see if there's two little wires hanging out somewhere and you literally just connect the 12volt battery to them they're generally I thought on the passenger side halfway up the screen about here but I didn't see it so I'm wondering if I'm just going to start cutting that looks like the stuff that you're heating but I can't see where I'll give up I think I'll just cut him I was going to wait till the morning because there's a fair chance you can break these and I'll probably be more patient in the morning than I I'm right now but alls it is is a nice little sharp hookie bit you go in behind the screen and then your little handle to drag it along so you can actually see the tip of the blade there and the reason I'm taking them out is not only we're going to weld up the plum it leaked from the top somewhere up here I ran the hose over it it leaked terribly and that is pretty much telling me exactly that that was that was way too easy coming across here that doesn't seem to be cutting seems to be just dragging oh yep it was a wi one guess what I'm caught on except I can't really use it as a wire one and heat it now because I've probably broke the circuit I won't be able to find the ends but that's what I'm talking about you literally have two little wires hanging out here like that or that side I thought it was probably wrong and you literally connect a 12vt battery just a car battery and then just keep touching it keep touching it and that would heat the glue settle it in and let it Harden don't think they've been used for a long time but still if this has been in there for a long time there's all the wire it is L literally all bundled up there how does that oh I just found the I thought they're up here never mind like I say if you heat it up and then try and cut it you can't can't cut it cuz it's just like trying to cut glue so you got to do one or the other clearly I'm doing the other wonder if I pull that no going to say if I pull that will it cut the seal no it won't it'll just snap off The only positive I can give you about this Plum rust is only the outside generally when they rust really badly around here they Rusty on the inside as well but running water down there nothing leaked so I'm going to say it's good just the outside probably wrong but I'm going to ignore it look at the Silicon got a go sealing it up I Reon I'm going to have 76 guys at this and that's only half I'm sure this is a Quality Tool but it's certainly has been pretty easy there's what it was leaking cuz there was basically nothing across there oh there's the secret right there don't giv too deep try and stay close to the glass why didn't you do that ear M cuz I didn't know that's why cuz I didn't know I was just going in and hoping for the best getting around those clicks is quite of [Music] tough definitely easier but also worried more about breaking it it's like you're putting you know the blade up against the glass at this point I'll be happy with a break it now I'm going to Chuck such a tantrum done ready for tomorrow and despite my bitching and moaning all the way through that I'm actually pretty excited for this one I'm actually the more rust work I do and and I mean that was a full day again just doing rust patches but the inside's now ready for carpet and tomorrow will be the same bit of Plum but by the end of tomorrow it'll be ready for the screen to go back in and it's making me think do I want to go a little bit further with this one by the time I finish the floors done do the plenum that'll be done do I want to go further with the outside of it I don't know anyway I definitely want to go further with the inside of it but that'll be determined by how quickly I can get parts here I've got carpet um but I didn't go too much further than that I've got a nice new seat cover for the seat it's black to match the black we did at the back there cuz everything needs to match in Tomo and I know I banged on about that seam sealer a little bit but it looks terrible it honestly does you brushing on it's like a kindergarten paint you know sort of painting you'd put on your fridge it's bloody awful but you look at the factory stuff and it's even worse but it's necessary well I guess if you ground that down primed it painted it but why it's under the carpet anyway seam sealed painted carpet we'll do the same underneath um once we're finished inside we'll get him up on the Hoist just zip around the other side of those welds um and then same s underneath and black underneath it's blacked at the back we haven't blacked the front we did the back only so I could set the the tray down when we were uh pressure planing I think in episode one but anyway he's coming along good big day tomorrow get that Plum rust done then he's sealed up I'll see you in the morning [Applause] [Music] [Music] n [Music] so first couple of hours this morning was basically cleaning up all the way around the windscreen get rid of all that black stuff so we can start doing the rust uh in the plenum here and cleaning up this wind screen I've buffed it both sides to make it as good as it can be it's still got a few pitting marks and that sort of thing on it but it's good enough for me and so I can tell this is going to go well the fact it took me two goes to even draw a straight line but I bought some cheap Plum tops and I have no quals cutting these up cuz they're not expensive but I know why cuz they're not even close if you see that end there is perfectly straight you see a massive Gap there that's quite curved and that's dead straight so I'd say what I'll end up having to do is Nick it there and Tuck that round but anyway it'll do it'll get it'll sort of get this um this shape here pretty right and I'll just cut along the edge of the dash there and then just butcher him in from there and the same on the other [Applause] side and now I'm not doing a full Plum I'm just doing a short cut of it just the bits on I need to do I'm not taking the guard or the door off we'll just do it this way that's why they rust trap and crap up under there that's surprisingly good though look that's still clean steel there that shocks me a little but it's good because that means the inner Plum's okay but I'll check that once we get further into there I'll have a good look in there I ran down the plum previously and there was no leaks inside so I genuinely think the water was just coming down and going through these guys and the bottoms of the Plum's okay even looking up from underneath the dash it looks okay but I'll just keep trimming away here follow that line and cut him off there somewhere and then we'll just trim that guy up to fit in that hole I'm not sure how far up the dash I want to come I think I'll try and join it behind where the wind screen will sit somewhere there it's like the corner needs to come off so it drops down in there so I'm finding that these panels are really a guide at best there's a lot of reworking and I've had to bend that around a little and it's still not right the Gap there will be okay but it tightens up there which the other side does a little bit you see right at the point there it's actually tightened up as well the terrible gaps Factory really but this is the one that's really annoying me the gap's quite decent there and it tightens right up because this Edge is way too straight I think I'm going to have to cut it down along that line and turn that around a bit but for now I reckon it's time so it's not quite sitting flush against here but I think that's only dropping it down so I'm going to do my old angle blade trick and see if I can start getting this to drop into that Gap maybe trim a fraction off that but see that's going to want to go that way a little as well once it's um on all of this oh no I don't want it to go that way cuz that'll widen then so I literally just need to turn that end and drop him down so he sits flush anyway I'll start angle cutting him there and also cut that guy off flush at that end that's more the shape got to nip it off now and drop it down just trim him off so I got to tell you that's about as good as I'm G to get it I think once I start welding in I'm still going to have to that that Gully there comes out a little bit I'm going to have to tap that in and this Gap here still needs some work but if you look the door's actually in too far to start with from there so I could rework that edge in a little bit just tap it in as I as I get to there and it's held with weld I can tap that in or I could just look that way and don't give a stuff but I might just bring the top of this door out of fraction as well just to widen that Gap there but I think I'll start burning that in that'll do for that side otherwise we're going to be here all day it's pretty good across there I'll see if I can send that that grommet Up in Flames [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay there now just go along and tap that edge down into that cut we can stitch him in still hot I'm po of stupid fit ining that's not too bad [Music] so here's what we've ended up with that's the amount of rust we took out all through that piece there and yeah that Gap is still terrible cuz that door like I said need to needs to come out not making excuses maybe I am whatever and there is a little Ridge down there I'm just going to pull some body filler through that bit there and on this side come up all right that little weld there has sucked in a bit I got impatient and tried to start running along there rather than spot welding as slowly as I could so I'm going to put a little bit of body fill in that one as well well but I'm not too too concerned because of my Dent there that's my character Dent that goes all the way down through there and don't worry about that hole and that rust there because that's on the inside that's part of Tomo's character the other one we did was up in the top here I just cut out a little round section of Steel and put it in that hole there I drilled the hole out and then die grinded it bigger and then patched that I won't put body filler in that we're just going to Edge Prime over that so now it's sand down this got a little bit of body filler and we're just about ready for primer and I'm going to paint the dash rather than go back to that brown though I think I'm going to paint black up to this edge here because the black's really going to match the steering wheel the back the seat cover so anyway we'll get into that not blowing smoke up my own ass but that that actually come up pretty good while that's drying I've cleaned up this Dash with silicon so I need to I guess crep all it little wax and grease remov it just so I can get some tape to stick to it cuz now I'm going to Black the dash this section of the Dust the metal section not the dash PB cuz I don't have any brown so so late yesterday afternoon I rang a windscreen guy expecting to say oh yeah we can fit you in next Wednesday nope they said how about 7:00 this morning so they've already been fitted the screen and while that's curing I can get inside fit the carpet the new seat belts and put the seat back in I think I'll glue all this back together as well make it look good all right so I have rather naively assumed when you order Ute carpet it would have been the full floor in two pieces is I know they come as a I just assumed it would have came with that however I've actually come across this before I ordered the wrong carpet for mucus and the reason I thought it would come with that CU it did I ordered a ute carpet by accident don't know how I did that um and it came front and rear section so I actually have a rear section but it's different color W worry just put in you won't see it it'll be beond the seat I just don't care I'll just trim it up so you can't see the sides we meat it'll be fine it'll be behind the seat you won't see it anyway well you know if you've been here before you know this one and that's for your seat built bolts and all that sort of thing just get a hot soldering iron there you go wiggle him around and makes a perfect little round hole just push him through just like that and my little tantrum with this seat continues I had the seat basically in then had to take it out cuz I forgot my drain plug so out came the seat again but the seat is absolute garbage so I've just got this 20 Buck Chuck over I don't even know what to say cover maybe it's for Animals I don't know anyway just for now it's get it on the road it's not worried about you know re-trimming seats we can do that down the track I probably could have put this seat cover on before I put the seatting would have been the sensible idea but anyway it's going in the way it is now it's coming up right though I still got to recan the dash I made a bit of a mess on the dash when we were all cleaning up the the windscreen area it'll do for now it'll get us through red she looks pretty good you look that way oh and the two-tone carpet you can't even see it on that side cuz the handbrake this side you can see it a little bit but you know that is as long as you don't look there but it's a fashion this summer all the cool kids are doing it so I'm very gently going to mask around the edge of my screen although that's now had a couple of hours to settle while I put the seat in the carpet back in we'll get some primer and start putting a bit of color on those two rust repairs and then we might start around with a little bit of body work starting here I think the corner of that's curved up there's a hole there and we got to do something with this cuz we've sealed that up now with the floor pans in it the rust is done in the plum but that's going to let water into the bottom of the door however the door is not great it's not great but that's okay it's going to be good for now and there's a hole here somewhere must be on the other side just there we got to do something with that um but again I'm not going to do it properly we're just going to patch it up leave it the way it is one there if you remember that's where the Rat's Nest was on the inside of that guard right to there so there's that hole there it's pretty dry that has had a few hours now I'm not sure how long that sort of needs to be left alone but I don't want to upset it and have it leak so we'll get this masked off and start getting some color on that and by color I mean whatever I can find I know I've got a yellow here from an old F100 I had it might be nowhere near it which will be [Music] fine might knock that corner down so I can mask that a little easier now it's not great think I need to sit something under there to hold that it's just flexing don't want to Dent my guard oh that's much much better now I just probably adjust down some still sits up crazy do it that's not acceptable look got the back down but it should to come forward a mile like like that much what's that like half an inch let's go there this will be fine maybe yes that's right I'm panel gapping this he of but what that does mean now that I've shifted that Bonnet forward I didn't do them up at all tight did I no no was the answer I didn't do that uptight but what that does me now shifted everything forward to get the back to sit down that latch is not not in the right spot oh that's leaking coolant God damn it stop making more work for me Tomo look at that damn thing leaky coolant I would say that's the bottom of this thermostat housing not my brand new pump that I put in there looks like it's coming from above it or is it looks a bit shitty there I think it's coming from above and running down anyway we'll get to that and that is to Chuck a tantrum if I can't get this get a decent body shifter ratch ratchet not shift up marvelous how easy it is when you get the right tool there's really no adjustment in this guy I got like 5 Ms if that but when you shut that you can see it's it's sort of predominantly to the left hand side so I sort of need to bring this catch to the right hand side cuz that makes sense when I've brought this down it's sort of come down it's going to shift that way so now it's trying to engage too much and when I got to shut it it's hitting quite hard on that edge so if I take this whole plate that way it'll engage pretty much the way it was so just back those two those two off and bash that across see where the the washer Mark is I've brought that across what's that maybe 4 mil 5 mil something like that but I'll nip it up there well actually what I'll do is have a bit of a an eye ball first got on nip it up with that I'll just do two oh yeah mint mint and it even opens well I suppose cuz like I said the bonnets came forward forward there sort of going to twist it as well and it's going to take everything wanting to go that way so that was hitting on the the left hand side of that catch moving it so left a little she's spot on kind of like the breast of one t done right back to what we were doing body work just a bit of edch primer this will ruin my masking No Doubt I'll see what sort of mess I can make with some color so I found two yellow aerosols both of which are not even close which is probably perfect well this guy Ford Code M of an F100 I had a long long time ago but I don't even know if this P's going to be any good it was a long time ago it's actually got a lot of thix on the bottom I could add some black it's actually more like it add some orange isn't it that's a very bright yellow I'm no better off wasting that as I am them so I might I might start cuz I don't need a lot of paint do I see if I got some orange that actually might not be any good when paint sits for a long time it does what's called seeding and it looks like it's got sand thrown in in it well if you look at the bottom of that it's very lumpy so that actually might be Beyond its Beyond its useful date anyway I don't know have I got a date on this I got a year 73 to 74 Ford yellow Blaze but no date it was mixed up and it's definitely acrylic lacquer which it usually lasts a lot longer than two pack believe it or not but I might spray that into a can and then see I will see if I got some orange start at the start you're getting ahead of yourself Michael start at the start orange you're actually not going to believe it I have two oranges not one that one don't know don't know why I had it but it's an acrylic orange you can see it on the can that one's off poppy from about episode it's a tan sort of Orange um what episode I don't know like 15 16 so we'll clean this out first I better just put some primer on that shake it more I think what I'm going to do is empty one of those cans into there and then just add some orange to it maybe the the SLE orange and I got a little bit of black as well so and that's what I think it needs from from that if you look at the at Tomo he's sort of dirty and more of an orangey yellow anyway we'll make something so I'm just emptying what seems to be the never ending can and I was thinking I wonder how old that paint is T me this though lead 11 3% it's old paint hasn't had lead in it for a long time it is old when did they stop putting lead in yellows you painters you'd know I should know I don't so here's where my system has failed somewhat that was the lid for the aoso but now I've sprayed it out it's absolutely nothing like the lid to the point where I probably would have just sprayed it but just looking I'm thinking I add a little bit of white just to wash it out and fade it out a bit of black and that'll do me and I guess I'll see if I got a white yep got a white XE wagon maybe the front bumper bar vxe and all the White's going to do is just wash the brightness out if you look at that you can clearly see that's a nice brighty yellow I just need to wash a bit of that brightness away and white will do that it'll milk it up and that's not exactly a very bright white so it's um a very gray white and this was probably some Chuck together that we did the bar and the XE on so we'll Chuck it again I'll just dribble a bit in not too much you can't go back the other way if it go too far I suppose it can I got another aerosol can R of that one in just to give it that little bit um more of an orange tinge and I mean a little bit cuz it's it'll be pretty strong that'll probably give it a lot of black too cuz it'd be black in that color it's filthy looking color a bit more white now I'm starting to feel like I need to hurry cuz those clouds are telling me we ain't going to have Sunshine for very long might have to move mucus out put him in inside so this is what I've come up with and that's just adding that orange just to Orange it up a little bit and that white from that XC bumper and pastels will always dry darker but that oh well I just dripped it onto there that's not so bad that's good enough for me let's get that on and just as I started to put the paint on it started to spit so didn't even get time to move for you k out [Applause] so that'll probably end up pulling me up for today but it's um still pretty solid Day Spring went in this morning that's now what it's almost 5 so it's been in there for about 10 hours actually but tomorrow I'll probably be a lot more confident that we can work around it without you know worrying that we're going to unseal the new sealed screen so to speak and before you judge me too heavily on my terrible paint work tomorrow we got to do some terrible body work um I want to get those holes and those doors sealed up because I've got some new trims coming and I don't want the moisture get inside the doors so we've got weather strips um the new door trims and door rubbers Bailey channels Bailey channels they can all go in tomorrow so anyhow I'll keep giving this guy a dry off and I'll see in the morning I was going to call it for the day but the rain's actually eased up so I've put him back out and I just covered up my paint workor I did dry it off pretty well with that heat gun uh but we're going to pull that thermostat off just quickly the light level's dropping a bit here but I'll quickly just knock it off flatten the face off and Chuck him back on just one more job out of the way today just wi wheeled the surface up of that thermostat housing I'm just going to run a file across it see if I can't get a better gasket surface just holding them flat see if it can get a bit of shine I reckon it was leaking from this bottom corner cuz that bit there is pretty corroded but see what we can work out that way that way see if we can take it all down in one go to get a nice bit of ultra blue or something on it and away we go I put a little bit of Ultra Blue on him and by a little bit I mean a ton not really oh yeah really yep t I might actually leave that and not put coolant in it for a little while maybe till morning yeah anyway now the rain stopped I just thought i' do that one even if the rain continues in the morning I was going to fill a few of those little door holes and that sort of thing it might slow me up on them but we still got plenty we can do um the scuff plates can go back in we can even start going through the wiring making sure the wipers work and the lights and all the rest of it and those sort of odds and ends even if I can't get to the little bit of you know sealing those doors up and then getting the trims on we'll we'll find plenty to do trust me so all right now I'll see you in the morning so first thing this morning we're up on the Hoist and we're going to start on seam sealing these pans and cleaning up around the edges if you see obviously that's the new floor pan and that's where I've overlap welded it so all that that edge there and that weld there I'm going to clean him up with this little guy with this little fire because I'll be able to get him up in there just up in there and run along that edge so one of the questions I guess I pose when you're putting these in is if that's basically the same as it was the factory overlapped like that what's the difference that I've overlapped the the floor pan like that I say there's well there's nothing except I'm going to seam seal it across here so that that doesn't um so that doesn't get moisture or anything up in that join but this section you don't even seem seal it because it's got gaps there so any water that gets in there can actually drain out and if you remember I rust converted inside of that so as far as I'm concerned that's good enough and same with my little patch panel if you remember that's the guy that I didn't bother putting those ribs in but that's just an overlap there I'll see seal that what's the difference to that fact no seam sealer so don't overthink it they're good enough whack them in have a go them and if you remember our join is about there inside that crossmember but where this crossmember meets that new floor I also have to seam seal it it's back there where you can't really see so and there's our little buttered up patch if you remember I said about angling that blade it actually cuts the back panel that's perfectly buttered up up there and I just run the die grinder along that guy all the way along there just to take the edge off those welds and see still that's the fold in the the pan the aftermarket pan and then I'll go down that guy along that guy all right enough talking let's get all that edge cleaned up seam silal the lot crossmember out and then paint the whole lot all underneath probably the one thing I can tell you when your seam ceiling is wipe it in towards in case there is a little Gap there which this one's pretty good but that end's got a little Gap there wipe it into the Gap go that way and once you've got the bit of seam seal pushed in there then maybe go along that way for a smooth finish see I'll show you at the end but that's that's virtually you can't even see that scene Al so I'm telling you no seriously you can't especially if you look the other way I probably could have H primed that first but I forgot and that does say it's got anti-corrosive properties see there's a bit of a gap there that roll my roll is not perfectly the same shape so if you wipe it into that Gap first then pull it down anyway I'll keep doing this but I'll show you when I'm finished so I couldn't get the transmission crossmember completely out without really I know removing more than I wanted so I slid it forward and if you see there there's our spot welds 1 2 3 four it's actually more one over there but I'm just going to seam seal along that guy there and then push that back and yes that is how the handbook says how to do it that's actually um GM approved treated pine and that's pretty much it the seam sealed up I just get these stickers off um and then give these are scuff up I don't know what sort of paint that is but from what I've seen it's got absolutely no corrosion preventative properties at all because I've seen them surface rust just sitting on a bench so I'm going to scuff that up and we'll put paint over them as well and there I know I've banged on about seam sealer and have a go with the floor pans and all that sort of did enough but that is one of my bug Bears because that's the sort of stuff that people have an unrealistic expectation of what they're supposed to look like some perfectly unnoticeable can't see it from underneath like it was never done type of finish which it's they're spot welded in from Factory they got seam sealer gooped on get off your ass have a go with them like finish the video then get off your ass have a gotard him that's it no more about floor pants it's over let's move on [Music] so all blacked underneath and probably the next thing I want to do is try and seal up a few of these holes there's holes drilled everywhere for mirrors and that sort of thing and also do something with that mirror it's a bit on the piss so I think we try and give that a bit of an adjust oh that's that bit I know it's still good just barely oh that's much better oh mint oh that got it perfect and with some of these holes I reckon I'll just grind off the tips of them and maybe just WIP some body filler or something in just to patch it up just so it doesn't leak oh son of a [Music] Tomo Fallen apart that was the best [Music] bit this is just like some fiberglass matting in body filler I don't even know what it's for maybe repairing boats or something but it sets with a a resin type appearance to it like it could seal water maybe so that's what I'm doing at so oh I'm really making a mess of this terrible but I'll give that a sand in a second going to try and use some thinners and W the excess off to see if I can not have to sand it oh yes it looks like it worked and those little repairs are completely awful but what I want to do for the next couple of hours is get a razor blade and just start taking some of this top coat off if you see there I've scratched it back literally that yellow top coat is coming off to expose the primer and then when I rub that primer more yellow's coming out and that's how I got the Bonnet to come up like that so I'm going to spend a little while just going around and just scraping him off like that it'll be a slow process and probably not even remotely worth it but I'm going to do it just the same I want to do it anyway just to try and bring out a bit more yellow less polka Doty measly sort of color see where I can get to here I'm probably the same across the front yeah all that's going to come off so I'll just slowly go around with the razor blade see what I can get off [Music] n [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so this is where we're up to now yesterday afternoon I scratched as much of that top coat and primer off the roof and the side of the panels as I could and then I sanded the whole you with uh 600 grade wet paper I haven't done anything with the rust and that sort of thing we are just going to clear coat it we're going to give it two light coats a clear just to seal in the ugliness coolness whatever you want to call it and look if I had to give you anything here I would say clear coating patina or whatever this is It's a good place to start to learn to paint get your width right get your fan right get your your pattern right and what I mean by a pattern literally down your door you're going to come across down and across you're doing passes and you're trying to overlap your fan you with me you're going to overlap your fan so this is your fan right that's your fan width so the next pass if that's the middle of your fan the next pass you want that middle right there come back that way then move down go back that way so that's your your fan withd and there's there's the compressor and so getting your fan and your patn on clear coat you can't really mess it up if it's a little bit dry maybe it adds to the to the look of the car but at least you're not going to get Stripes like you would with color so get your fan right and I'm just going to wipe over it with a tack rag a tack rag picks up all the lint and dust and and that sort of thing and I do this outside I prefer doing it outside rather than in a shed because if you're inside the shed and the rafters and walls have got dust or whatever being can find Space of the air pressure maybe it stirs up a lot of dust I like the redneck spray booth which is a little gentle breeze heading that way anyway this takes a bit of dust and stuff off it I have wax and greased it or prep sold the whole car and you're just trying to pick up lint or anything like that cuz let's face it we want a mint job so on this one I'm using a two pack clear uh I've actually used it before on the commodor it's a really fast drying two pack I like the fast drying stuff it gives less chance for dirt and dust to settle so it's good for outdoors if you wanted a semi gloss finish you'd probably use an acrylic but I want this to really really shine I want it to look deliberate first coat I'm not going super heavy go around your edges first like along your front edge and your back Edge and then start from this Edge and go that way you're carrying your wet Edge across is [Music] [Music] w and you might feel like a bit of a dick doing it but try to get your head in a position where you can actually see what the paint's doing as it goes on again that's why booths are good cuz they got fluos everywhere but we're using what we've got that's probably nearly ready for a second coat now it is really fast drawing and alls it is is that stuff I just got it it's cheap off the internet Euro Flash and being fast drying I guess it just minimizes the time that you're worried about Landing in it like bugs flies whatever second Co what you can't hear me what I said was second coat going to go a little bit heavier on the top panels on the sides I don't think so that's not too bad let's get into this [Music] [Music] [Music] and look I know there's that that element of has clear coating and patina been done to death well it's only really done to death I think if you consider it as the finished product this is not the finished product this is just the beginning parked for almost two decades and we're about a day away from a Rego inspection from a registration inspection to legally put it back on the street so if you don't if you don't think of it as a finished product it's just a stepping stone you sort of never know where this thing's going to end up painted I don't know but anyway let's not overthink it so tomorrow oh we've actually got a good day tomorrow we've got door rubbers Bailey channels all the cool that that makes this feel door trims door trims makes it feel like it's I don't know getting there getting somewhere and I don't know if you noticed I knocked the headboard off cuz I wanted to cut it down so I've trimmed along the bottom of it and yeah I get it there's that whisper about oh more clear coat more patina but when you think about it this is just the beginning as I said that took about 8 hours hours and maybe 200 bucks and it's literally presentable ready for a REO inspection I can guarantee you if you decided to go shiny paint with this and mint 8 hours wouldn't get you one panel repaired but that doesn't mean that's not the way we're going to go it just means it's earned the right now if we get it on the road it's earned the right to get the time and money spent on it does that make sense anyway whatever so tomorrow we've got du crims rubbers Bailey channels fit the front back up and because of ton of nice shiny clear coat I might have to park him inside so mucus has got to come out for the night such a total heap of it's so [Music] awesome the night will get pretty cold so the tunnel has got to sleep in the shed for the night just to let that clear coat set up and cure and and so mucus is going to stay outside for the night if you haven't been here before and you haven't seen mucus we found him as a roller no motor no transmission parked for over two decades now this is originally a 253 v8 triatic car so it is a factory V8 Kingswood but I did completely the right thing and put a 39 26 Big Block in actual fact this is 30th hour over so this is a 406 big block Chevy turbo 400 and a 9in diff we have done a couple of episodes on mucus fitting the big block fitting the 9 in getting it running and I guess moral of that story is mucus is back soon we're going to do a bit more work on mucus maybe take him to the drag strip but anyway see you in the morning [Music] [Music] and I know that was a lot of time lapse but I'm literally running out of time on this one and no not cuz I'm going to lose the shop it's just I got to go back to work I've literally got to get this driving today to finish where it's going to be another 5 days so but we're getting close just cleaning up windscreen molds door trims are in oh we lowered the headboard my son and I have put in a bit of effort on the front he's all back together with his fresh holding badge fresh sleep rattle can spray painted but molds are Going Back in Black the tops of the doors trims went in as youve seen and as I said we dropped down that headboard I brought it down about I don't know 200 mil or something it's still shitty but that's all I got time for right now and I was only sitting here cleaning windscreen molds thinking exactly how far this thing's come in about 10 days 4 days in the first video and this one cuz of the rust taking a little bit longer it's about 6 days so I don't know 10 days and if you remember what she looked like here's what we got today old holding Montana when I first saw it I thought it was a lot older being the Q style front 79 wasn't expecting to be buying anything today but I have and yeah that was spread over a couple of weeks um with a bit of a gap in between we did the wrecking yard video if you haven't seen that one go back and have a look at that one that one was overwhelming is what it was anyway you nearly there we'll stop talking get this finished [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] go [Applause] oh [Music] [Applause] [Music] I I [Music] [Applause] [Music] that's Shing [Music] me what that sh not stopping that from shutting oh nothing now ended it all down with 600 wet are you serious what sort of a horn is that who has that horn to where all the repairs were there's got to be some like rally coming through [Applause] [Music] town those rallies sound like fun it's still going seriously that sound like fun though doesn't it and as I said I started to run out of time on that one haven't even got to the oil leaks but he's not running too bad it's come a long way in a short period of time but anyway I'll see you next time and thanks for watching that [Music] I I want that [Applause] [Music]

Channel: Backshed

Views: 26,386

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Id: LrpVwL0jxx4

Length: 115min 43sec (6943 seconds)

Published: Thu May 30 2024