Grinders - How to Sharpen Traditional Turning Tools - Tool Fool Friday #007

welcome back to worth the effort woodworking and tool for friday a weekly little episode i do to discuss a tool that i deem indispensable in my personal shop this week we're going to talk about grinders i'm going to refine that down into grinders for turning so yeah i'm going to teach you how to sharpen those turning tools real quickly i'm going to start out and just explain what i have right here when dad and i combined our shops we kind of combined our sharpening steps and i built this table i'm not really happy with it so we're going to be doing something different the next few weeks but for this video it worked out just fine when i came into the shop i basically had three eight inch grinders and one six inch grinder uh i had one uh eight inch grinder a delta that bought when i first started out when i didn't really know what i was buying and i bought a regular grinder if you're a wood turner you really want to get a slow speed grinder i think this the rpm is like 1700 1800 rpm somewhere in there most grinders are built for the metal working they spin a lot faster i have that eight inch other eight inch grinder up on the shelf just as a backup just in case but it just goes way too fast for what i want to do dad also had a an eight inch grinder and all of ours were bought uh at sales at different woodworking shops uh excuse me two one of mine was bought at a woodcraft store when they had on sale and dad bought the same exact model when he was in wisconsin because a lot of woodturners bought them that year because they were less than 100 bucks i picked up a second one at my shop at a estate sale dead also has a jet slow speed storm installing kind of a knock off of the tormek uh it it doesn't work anymore i know it's repairable but we just don't use that kind of sharpening gear so i just haven't gotten around to it one of the eight inch grinders i had brought in crapped out on us so that's why we have different brands to this time both dad and i had a one-way wolverine setup i actually had two for my two grinders so we ended up with three so a lot of these parts are redundant as we kind of combined them but that's beside the point we'll get to those in a second as per stones in my shop i was using the less expensive friable wheels dad had a uh one of these where he had these two wheels on it this one's a fairly coarse one i'm not actually sure what the grid is this one i believe he says is 180 but it's over 10 years old it's worn down so it's probably a little bit finer but even that it works really well i purchased this this uh this wheel at the latest swat and it is a 600 grit wheel i believe at this point i got this one because of other tools i i thought it would work with my hand tools i'm kind of wishing i got 320 and i'll explain why later on but the results i get on this as far as the gr the cutting on the wood phenomenal on the small six inch grinder i'm still using a friable wheel it is a 36 grit and i love that one i've talked about that in past videos uh and i'll put a link down to those down below but this video we are basically going to focus on the eight inchers for the wood turning now you will notice the diamond wheels i've removed the guards on them because you don't really need them for the diamonds the friable wheels uh the white ones the gray ones the green ones all those kind of stuff you do because they will explode in certain situations or just randomly sometimes they can be very somewhat dangerous there another reason why we are slowly replacing all of them plus the fact that with the better steels that we are getting nowadays that just weren't available 10 years ago you're just getting a better surface with diamonds versus those old friday ones some of the fry the steels are barely cut by the friables both daddy and i had the one-way wolverine setup i'm going to tell you here and now if you're getting into woodturning just buy it it's a hundred bucks you get two of these platforms one for each side of the wheel you also get a bar like this to help with jigs i'll show you how you can use this later on and you get a platform and the platform is a key thing to me these platforms are wonderful they take a beating they don't flex on you they just they just work and you don't have to think about it i have had so many different platforms in my career that are flimsy for example this one from veritas which is highly recommended and if you you look at it you can see i've been using it for a long time but you this is pretty solid for this style and it's kind of wiggly the adjustments i mean it's not rock solid those and those ones that come with your grinders that are attached here those are horrible i spent about as much for this one platform as that entire wolverine setup and the thing is these have become somewhat so standard in the professional woodturning realm that people make accessories that go with them i mean you can buy alternative platforms so that you can use different jigs these are all things that dad's collected over the years to make certain different cuts grinds a little bit easier you can spend a lot of money on these jigs and i think that's why a lot of times this gets a bad rap because there's a lot of people that make things that will go with this one you don't have to buy all that junk if you want to go ahead but there are other ways you can do the basic stuff with just this setup the only accessory i actually have ever used is these little very very grind jigs and i i'd seek out the older model not the newer model it's a little bit different design this is about 60 maybe 70 on amazon i think now one of the things a lot of people stress about is getting their platform set up so that they get the proper angle on their cutting edges and there's a couple different ways you can do it if you want to be cheap basically you can just kind of trial and error it with maybe a tool that you like you come over here you set it up you want to get it just right so you play around with it and then once you get it set just perfectly maybe go get a piece of thin plywood or something like that have it straight here and then draw that angle right there so that you anytime you want to come back to this one setting for this tool you just put the plywood up to it if you don't want to do that diy there are a lot of companies that make really cool jigs i personally really like this raptor this is one that dad bought i got something from stuart batty design back when he he was marketing him i think he sold this design to somebody else and this thing right here has all these different angles on it and you can do it to set it up i did not like this one but dad loves it he doesn't like these but i like this this right here is about twelve dollars you buy that little set for twelve dollars again you can make it and how this thing works is i have a little lip on the edge i can drop that down on the platform i just need to move my platform up to the distance i want from the wheel and then change the angle until both of those tips touch and then lock everything down and i can return to the setting time and time again by just doing those two but i will say i use this 40 degrees so often that i bought myself an extra platform and this is one i never touch i've got it labeled 40 degrees for a lot of the turning stuff i do so i can put my finger right on that line i drop it in here and i know that this one is going to be set the same every single time the distance i like you don't want a very deep distance here because the tool can come inside there if you have too far distance angles all set with those two settings my fingernail here and this locked so it never changes i can sharpen most of my tools and with that same idea the bar that comes with it which is way too long but you will notice i have these lines on it my roughing gouge is here bowl gouges there the spindle gouges here so basically whenever i want to do a spindle gouge i bring this up i drop my finger on that line and my settings are always the same now if for some reason you ever need to change those settings because i use a sharpie just a little alcohol take it right off and because my spindle gouge i have the settings i like might not be perfect for everybody but they're ones i like i bought one of these just for my spindle gouge i haven't changed this setting in probably eight years i drop it in i drop my tool in there i'm ready to go i have one also except for a old bowl gouge angle but i prefer to do my bowl gouge now on the platform instead of on this tool and the final kind of luxury thing i have is these were made by thompson's i picked them up at swat one year dad picked up a set too it's just a hole to a certain depth so if you ever need to set up the jigs you kind of drop this drop your tool into the hole and then this bumps up and i'll show you how to do that later you could do the same thing by just screwing a block on the corner of your table and that would bump up to that it's just it's it's a it's a knick-knack now i know this sounds like i'm nickel and diming up a fairly expensive setup but i want you to think about it grinders don't go bad very often you can pick up a used one at a pawn shop a garage sale or anything like that and let's say you paid just half what a brand new one was these are readily available throughout the year at sales they allow woodworking stores for about a hundred dollars and they will come with generally an 80 grit and a 120 grit friable wheel i turned on those two wheels for over a decade and never replaced them that's how little you're want grinding them away even turning as much as i do they did get smaller but not that big a deal in fact that's one of the wheels that originally came on this that i've been using this whole time so there's 50 bucks add a hundred dollars to get a wolverine setup which includes the two sides the platform and the arm and you can do most everything you can make little homemade jigs to compensate for this right here if you don't want to spend the extra 60 bucks you can make little plywood setups for these kind of things right here it's all out there there's lots of information on the internet on how to build that stuff upgrading to diamond wheels means there's less of that abrasive in the air when you're grinding it's a lot cleaner especially if you do stuff like put a magnet inside a little baggie and put it up underneath your platform or leave it down here it kind of collects all the metal shavings makes it very easy to keep clean plus there's less chance of them exploding so that's why you have those guards on it but that's something you can purchase way down the road after you've sold enough bowls to justify it but that's enough about the equipment now let's actually get to sharpening so here are the tools i'm going to discuss sharpening today we're going to start out with a spindle roughing gouge then we're going to go to a spindle gouge i'm going to be sharpening this with the more difficult fingernail grind then we're going to do two bowl gouges one i'm going to do it what they now call a 40 40 grind some people might call it l a variation of ellsworth or a variation of a swept back or irish or they're all the technique will be for the same for all of those and then we're going to do one that's a kind of a conventional bowl gouge a lot of people call it a bottom feeder nowadays i'm then going to work on a parting tool a skew but i'm going to do it in a the harder method not the straight one the one that offers both the straight and the curve popularize nowadays by uh richard by uh alan laser and then we're going to do two bowl uh scrapers one conventional one with a negative rake and you can take that information on the scrapers and apply it to the other shapes of scrapers so let's get working on a spindle roughing gouge so to sharpen it i'm going to start out by putting my 40 degree platform on and once again i just put my finger down on the line and i bring it forward and i know it's going to be at 40 degrees no matter what wheel i do it because the pla this part it's sliding into is exactly the same on both wheels it's lined up with the face of the wheel itself now i recently built me a new roughing spindle roughing gouge but i'm going to go back to my old one just so that i can show you what happens as you as you sharpen them over time so here's basically how i would sharpen this tool i would come over to my go set this up come over here i'm going to focus on keeping this lined up with the wheel itself that keeps me at a perfect 90 degrees and this is how long it takes come over [Music] and really i'm gonna go a little bit longer to get rid of the last little bit right there okay that just might be because this platform when i reset it is maybe a degree off now if you want to my dad advocates for using a sharpie on your grinders because it really does illustrate what you're taking off me personally i can i think you can kind of see it visually so right there i could come over here i could touch it and see if the angle is right okay so notice i'm touching it down a little bit low if i wanted to increase this angle a little bit with these platforms what you do is they are hinged in the middle so i if i come over here and i tap on the top it steepened up the angle a little bit and i can come back over and just touch it down a little bit and check it again oh that line almost goes all the way at top so fine adjustment let's see how this one does just a nice touch now i'm touching right in the middle so now i can go ahead and grind the rest of the way and it repeats whatever i have set on the gouge itself again normally because i've had this set and i've never touched it my sharpening is this much touch go across back get back to work but here's what happens to let the wheel wind down nobody's perfect and over time sometimes you might grind a little bit too more in the middle than do the wings so over the course of maybe a dozen sharpenings this will come down further what you actually want with a spindle roughing gouge is for it to be perfectly parallel this way and this way so sometimes it might come back a little bit like that might come back a little bit like that or maybe it's canted one way or the other here's how you can reset it and i'm going to use this as an example to show you how you can reset all your gouges i can take a board with a piece of sandpaper or grinding stone and just go at it at 90 degrees until i get it to the shape i want okay that's obviously going to be wearing this down a little bit but you can just go like that or if you have a grinding wheel designed so that you can push it sideways fry bottle wheels you can't i can come over here get it at perfect 90 degrees and just lightly touch it see it's going it's touching on that side not that side a little bit [Music] [Applause] so there we go no now's the shine so now all i have to do is go back to that same grinding wheel with that and keep grinding until that little flat goes away and i'll end up with a perfectly shaped spindle roughing gouge now one really cool thing about these cbn wheels is their metal wheels they act as a heat sink in in to themselves i can sit here and grind like this for quite a bit of time without it getting too hot notice my finger is still touching it i am not burning myself okay it's a little warm but not that bad if you're using a pliable wheel all the heat is getting put into the steel not the wheel itself so you might need something to cool it off a little bit but high speed steel can get way hot well beyond it turning colors before it's going to lose its temper so you don't really have to worry that much about it [Music] [Applause] [Music] now if you don't want to use the platform in this setting you can do this with the bar remember me talking about putting those lines on this bar well i have one of the lines for this particular roughing gouge so i can now just slide it in place my finger on my roughing gouge line come forward and then tighten it up and because it is a flat grind i can basically just drop this in the wheel and come over here and touch it down and grind it this way and it'll make it a perfect shape ready to rock and roll next up is my parting gouge and this is about as cheap as they come it's not even a diamond parting gouge to sharpen this one it is as simple as turning your grinder on i have the same 40 degree platform set up no changes there i'll come over here once again lining the side up with the wheel keeping those in line make sure that you get a nice 90 degree edge on the top and it's just a simple touch here touch here and then the last side that you touched is the one where the burr is coming back up so i will actually work the tool this way because that's the sharper side and that becomes my edge as i'm turning if i know that this side is pretty flat a lot of times all i will do is come over here touch that side and get back to work only you only grind on one side if you need to if that's all you need to do occasionally the side gets like varnish or sap on it or something like that or just burn marks so i will take a little abrasive platform a piece of sandpaper work just fine and i will do the sides like this but that's maybe once every 20 grindings no big deal and you can see it cleans up pretty nicely next up is my spindle roughing gouge this is my go-to tool in top making and late last few years you know i burned through one or two of these a year that's how much i use it and this is my normal sharpening regime for it but i want you to notice something [Music] mine's actually a little bit messed up right now can you see this right here is the grinding point on the side on this side and if i come straight over it's a little bit off so this is not balanced now sometimes you will get where i get a little scoop they call it that like a hook or something like that and that can make it very catchy or it might be proud what we want is this to be very flat all the way across so easy way to reset that is to come over put it so that the flute sits on your platform and just touch it what will happen is you'll get the slightest of you going all the way across of the flats i exaggerated it right there for y'all's benefit normally i wouldn't do that much but you can see i've got to remove a lot more on this side and the toe then on this side so i'll keep going what it's hear that i'm flat so it's going to be balanced and i'm just kind of touching and raising it up [Music] there we go so in my sharpening to get it perfectly balanced i just need to remove those flaps so to set up for that sharpening that tool i'm going to use a jig and then i'm going to show you how you can freehand it without the jig so i'm just going to move this over here to my finer platform this is where it pretty much stays all the time then i'm going to grab the bar which i have a mark for my spindle gouge fingernail goes on the line and it goes straight into the slot lock it down then i will reach over i grab the very grind jig that i've got set up for my spindle i basically drop it in and i have a thompson setup jig for two inches basically i'm just gonna set the protrusion from the edge two inches no big deal you can do that with a piece of wood if you want to and now i just drop that in here and that's all it takes to do the grinding but something you need to take into account when you're doing any kind of gout whether it's a bowl or spindle gouge there is more metal in the middle than on the sides so as you are bringing it from one side to the other if you're maintaining speed and pressure well more material get removed from the side than the center section so a lot of times what you'll see me do is i will start on one side and if i'm removing a lot of material i'll make even passes but each time i go around it might be smaller and smaller or smaller and then i will come back and go bigger and bigger and bigger and that just removes more middle down the center or spends more time on the center than the sides to hopefully even it out but normally when i'm sharpening i will come over here it'll be a light touch fast i'll slow down and then speed up and then that's it here is a normal round of me sharpening this one if i wasn't having to remove that flap i would come over here turn it on let it speed up drop it in light touch heavier light touch heavier and then get back to work but right now my objective is to reshape this tool so i've got to remove more on this side than that side so i'll just sit here and watch it i'll stay here grind on it and then take a look and as soon as that flat spot is gone i know i've got the shape i want and it'll be sharp at that time a little bit more of a flat right on the nose now can you see as a light reflects around it there's a little bit of shine right on that tip tip of the nose that's where the light's right there can you see that i just need to remove a little bit more metal right there to get the perfect shape [Music] and there we go now you cannot see the edge at all so i i've got a very sharp tool but look at that bevel on the back side see how large it is that will get in the way so a lot of times i will remove that bevel and i don't really care if it looks perfectly how i will do that one is i will simply raise it up here and i'll work it in a kind of a u starting on the side and coming down towards the middle and then coming back back up the side and this is good practice for freehand sharpening a spindle gouge so this is the exact pattern you use see what's happening i'm wearing away that heel on the back of that gouge getting in a way getting rid of it slowly making that bevel shorter and shorter now if you don't want to use that jig or setup you can use this 40 degree platform to do that same exact thing what i'm going basically what i would do is i will use my finger on it i won't change the platform and then i'm going to come over here and i will come down until i can see that the tip is touching the the grinder so so that tells me that's the bottom of my u so i will come up and do this exact same thing making that u coming up the sides to make that shape now if you don't want to risk doing it with the grinder on this is where using a marker will be a good benefit for you so you just mark up the tip like that and then you can come over here and if you want to see if you've got it just right just move the gouge sideways and look oh i'm not touching the tip yet so i can come down a little bit farther there we go i got full line right there so i know that this right here is my bottom portion so now i can just turn the thing on come up [Music] right like that [Music] when you got all the black removed you got a pretty good gouge when you're doing that the key thing you don't want to do though is stop and keep going that will give you a lot of bevels you want to try to make it a very smooth turn all the way around so you get the smooth bevel all the way around sean are you are you showing them your gal the way you do it my my shape yeah yeah well i i don't really like your shape that way it doesn't work for me let me show mine this is much better sean this this is your angle right there it is extremely steep and i end up needing to get more detail with my spindle gouge because i don't use the skew as much as you do so i'm doing let me show you a different way of doing it there is my spindle gouge i don't worry too much about having a uniform u but it's got a a very steep angle on it that i like the way i end up doing it is i'll blacken it like shawn does because he got that from me hey and then i come up and use the same 40-40 directives he's like me messing with his rest and i'll rest my hand here and and i'll just guide it and then i'll just work it until i get that angle i want basically i'm looking just to remove the point of the edge and get what i want so i'm just going to move it up and around [Laughter] and i'll look it and i'll see all right on one side but i'm not on the other so i'll come back in and take it out and that's my spindle gouge wait a second dad are you actually telling them not to go fully 90 degrees you're just kind of scooping a little bit on the side i guess so because all i'm cutting you know i'm just cutting on the edge i don't go all the way up i don't have to at least i don't i could i guess i could go all the way up like that but i don't but i could it'd be just as easy [Music] you can see i have the same profile on my two smaller gouges i use this one a whole lot and this was for the very fine work and it's just got a similar grind to it and they're in there they're made the same way i will blacken it first so i know where i'm at then i'll come in and look at it and and i'll also be taking off my heel but i'll bring it down just to where i can know it's going to be cutting it and i can sort of see it cut and i can see how i'm getting close there it is and i don't have it on the top yet not quite you see a little bit still left there and i'll take that heel off if i want it now now i've got something i can get and get some really nice detail with [Music] artist i mean come on let's go for everything now since i had the 40 degree set up let's go ahead and sharpen a bowl gouge now start out doing it freehand so you don't have to buy any more jigs and this is actually the preferred way for the bow gouge a spindle gouge because of the shape of the fl shape of the floop you can get an even angle at every single point if you set your jig up okay but with the bowl gouge because it's a i don't know what they call a parabola or something like that it's got straight sides and then it scoops underneath and then straight sides out a a jig that gives you a very even flow all the way around will not give you a consistent angle because of those flats on the side so actually doing it freehand will give you better results and i found that with about two days of practice of turning with this gouge because you're sharpening so often when you're doing bowl gouges you get a lot of practice and it ends up being easier than setting up the jig so here's my bowl gouge as you can see if you look down the flute the sides are somewhat straight and then it's got a curve on bottom okay also notice that the shape here is slightly rounded if not straight what you don't want it to do is be concave like that because that would be very catchy and you won't get very good results it either needs to be convex or completely straight and once again to get that you can use the two wings on your platform come back up and touch it and with the 40 40 grind basically what that's saying is you have a 40 degree angle here and a 40 degree angle all the way around here so to get the perfect shape just put it flat see right there and then come up to get that perfect u just like that if you're not going to be doing a con k convex curve just touch it and come back if you don't want it a little bit more convex just kind of touch and rise a little bit and come back down now to get the 40 40 grind we want to take that flat wing right there and get it horizontal to the ground and what i would do is i would just put pressure in the middle wing and set it down now on my platform this is set to 40 degrees the wheel but you also see these lines right here those are 40 degrees either side so if i can get this wing parallel with the ground and at that angle then i know these side angles will be at 40 degrees so all i have to do is keep it parallel with that line on the platform and come across a little bit if i want to add a little bit of curve i will kind of move it on this side or that side of that line and then swing it down to the middle so that when i'm straight up and down at the middle this is completely open parallel with the platform at which time i will come back over to the other side making sure that this is flat move it back and forth or swing it a tad bit and then swing down so this is how long it takes to do turn it on let it ramp up to speed [Music] come over i'm putting weight on the bottom wing [Music] line it up [Music] then rock that little center section a little bit and there we go okay nice edge now what you're actually looking for is a very consistent bevel coming around the side over here about a millimeter's worth consistent all the way around all this stuff right here doesn't really matter you can have as multiple facets as you want right there you just want one consistent facet about a millimeter down all the way around okay all this is doing is getting rid of the heel out of the way so you can make a smooth cut around corners but if you're wanting a grind that i would say is maybe 90 percent as effective as that but a lot easier to control for probably a brand new beginner i'm talking somebody who's been at it a month or two don't be ashamed of using these grinding jigs because i did it for years and i guarantee you the bowls don't know the difference it's as simple as dropping it in again going to set your parameter and then remember me talking about those lines on that bar well i have a line for this bowl gouge right there on the other side and the action is exactly the same as with the spindle gouge start on the wing come to the nose probably spend a little bit more time on the nose because there's a little bit more meat there for you to remove and then come back over and you'll get again 90 95 the quality of the grind that you will do freehand now that was a bowl gouge with swept back wings a more traditional gouge does not have wings that are swept back as much a lot of people nowadays call this a bottom feeder gouge because basically this is the bowl the bowl gouge you use for the very bottoms of the bowl that other one is better for the size of a bowl and well what do you know the traditional angle is 40 degrees so you don't even have to reset your platform just come over here and this is a lot more like when you're doing the spindle roughing gouge it's just kind of a twisting motion with a slight swing not much at all [Music] there you go this time let's talk about a bowl gouge specifically a negative rag bowl gouge and that's where you actually grind on both sides so you get a little bit sharper of an edge right here and on this tool you basically only grind the bottom most of the time so that the burr forms on the top side i'm going to show you how to do both of them and well what do you know in my example yeah the the the angles aren't perfect but for some reason i've already got a 40 degree platform set up here why change it so what i would do is i will start on the side way down here almost to the point notice my handle is almost horizontal and i'll start working it and basically as i come around the curve i'm trying to keep that curve perpendicular to the grind so here we go [Music] and that right there is all i really ever do when i'm putting a fresh burr on this tool right here it's that fast now occasionally you might want to grind the top and you do that exactly the same way except this time the handle is going the other way and it's just you know kind of keep it parallel to the grinder now a lot of people when they do their curves they like to end up perpendicular to this edge right here me personally i like to bring it back ever so slightly because it allows me to go both directions but now that you've done the top you always have to go back and do the bottom because right now the burr is going the wrong way so it's not going to cut you have to have the burr coming up which means the last step before you actually go to your your bowl is to put the burr on bottom and you can feel it it'll be there now one of the big differences between negative rake see with that edge on both sides and a classic or traditional grinder is the angle can you see the difference this one's set to 40 this one's much steeper well this is where i know i'm a bit spoiled if you remember way back in the beginning i told you dad worked with one grinder where he had two diamond wheels and i worked with two because i really liked having my platform set where i didn't have to move them so one grinder i had set with 40 degrees and the other grinder i had set when i was doing bowls or boxes for this tool right here and basically think about it my negative rake scraper my bowl gouge my spindle gouge could all be done here and then whenever i wanted to sharpen this tool it was as fast as this [Applause] i'm back to work the motion is the same but i'm not coming back as far with this tool i'm basically coming over to just that one point right there so i come back pressure down to keep it flat and come back over just like that to get that nice edge now you might notice i have these bevels right here because i do small boxes so often this is a pretty huge heel when you're turning inside this will actually if the box is rolling around a lot of times it will hit this portion so i like to get rid of that so i would do that one by starting flat like this and i don't really care what the angle is and i will roll up just like that [Music] once again it doesn't matter the angle it's just getting rid of the metal around that corner real easy start roll finally let's talk about the skew now it's kind of funny you seem to either be bold turning or spindle turning which means you're using tools like those bowl scrapers or the skew so this platform right here i change all the time you know i'll set it up for that bowl scraper or i set it for the skew but this one the 40 degree one i never touch also i gotta admit that i don't grind this tool as often as i do my other tools this is the one tool that i will hone with a little slip stone i'll show you that in a second but i've got to establish these angles and you can cut straight off the grinder but i find it's easy to refine this with that slip stone simply because of the large bevel now the general rule of thumb is well i have no clue what the actual angle is here on on these two angles coming down is that in focus somewhat okay but the general rule of thumb is you take this width of whatever your blade is and that corner to corner distance is one and a half times the width and that will get you the angle you want basically i said it once when i first got the gow the skew and i will probably sharpen this for its entire life without ever really verifying the angle again but whenever i want to set it on this platform i'll loosen all the settings and then i will actually set my angle off of the tool and again you set it once at the beginning of the day and then you just leave it for the day now if you're setting your gouge up traditionally basically you would have a 70 degree angle from that tip to that point right here you will notice that mine is not quite a consistent curve it's basically somewhat straight for about one third right there and then it begins to curve right here but if you connect the dot there to the dot there it does come out to 70 degrees or actually i should say about there where the straight stops and down here now this i got this idea from a gentleman named alan laser who really advocates it for it but his particular design is he goes completely perpendicular to the side across about a third and then curves it down you'll notice mine comes mine's not quite that extreme but i prefer it this way and everybody's going to eventually come up with a grind that they kind of like so i've got it painted on this side i set my angle and i'm going to start at the angle that's going to be straight across right here which mine is not quite parallel it's slightly off and then i can come over here and just kind of move it back and forth to verify that i got the platform in the right spot and when i do you'll grind away the metal in the middle to make adjustments i either tap on top to lower one way or a tap on bottom to lower the other and i just keep going until i get the angle so it's taking away shavings in the dead center instead of one end or the other see when i started out it was removing the ink on the bottom then it removed it on the top and now as i tap it down a little bit more it might be removing all the way across i'm pretty happy with that it's touching down there and there at the same time so now i'm going to place it and i've got a pivot point right about here so i'm going to move it straight across and then i'm going to pivot around that point with my hand come over pressing down hard here my middle finger at my pivot point [Music] and then do the same exact thing on the other side whoops wasn't quite taking it all the way up to the tip so tap it on the [Music] bottom top [Music] [Music] voila a little bit more right up there then do the same exact thing opposite angles on the other side [Music] i now have a very sharp skew and this skew straight off the grinder is okay i mean i know a lot of people that that's what they'll do they'll work over here they'll come over here i personally will somewhat hone i won't hone it right now but after it dulls a little bit i'll use this stone right here and i've done a video on this in the past and i'll kind of rock it find the angle and then just kind of i'm rocking off the bottom bevel and every now and then it touches the top one that way i keep it straight and this keeps me sharp sharp all day long i very rarely grind my skews but the one thing that even if you don't want to hone in like that you want to take some kind of abrasive and on that top tip go flat and really sharpen that up because you'll use that top tip quite a bit in v-cuts and stuff like that just to clean that up well i did tell you these two full fridays were a deep dive into one tool this time it was a grinder specifically for turners because i really don't know how i could do this hobby or make a living at this without the grinder and i think i showed you that it really isn't that hard the skills you use to sharpen are the same exact skills you use to turn so your turning practice is sharpening practice and if you think back on what i actually showed you to sharpen what did i do i got one platform i set to 40 degrees if it was 41 42 43 or 47 it doesn't really matter as long as it's consistent and i don't touch it i'll be happy i won't be able to tell the difference and i use that for so many different tools the other side i changed up a little bit i might had a different platform or a different setting for you know my scrapers or my sku or maybe i put the bar in there and used a jig for my spindle gouge which if i didn't have that vera grind jig i could have just used the 40 degree platform used my fingers as a fence and moved up there you can get it all done all the basic tools with the base wolverine jig and a grinder well i hope you enjoyed this video got a few tips techniques maybe a willingness to get out there try but in the end i really just want you to remember that it's always worth the effort to learn create stuff and share it with others y'all be safe and have fun you

Channel: wortheffort

Views: 96,668

Keywords: wortheffort, woodturning, sharpen, sharpening, grinder, grinding, grinds, gouge, lathe, spindle, roughing, bowl, scraper, negative rake, how to, diy, beginner, turning, wood, tool, tools, CBN, sharp

Id: T7ydP3HBvLI

Length: 51min 54sec (3114 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 08 2021