Glue-up without Squeeze-out

I'm very keen that we shouldn't squeeze masses of excess glue out of the shoulder line on the interior of the job it doesn't matter how much glue squeezes to the exterior because inevitably we're going to take a few shavings of that and clean it up now when a pin goes into a socket any glue here will be pushed down into that small void that we arranged for with our d+ gauge setting however if we consider the surface of a pin any glue on the surface here is going to get pushed up towards this shoulder line and probably squeezed out on the interior of the job now professor Hoadley tells us that we should wet both sides of a glue joint lack of wetting being the most common form of glue failure so considering those things I'm going to be reasonably generous with my glue in the sockets here because the excess will get pushed down into the little space particular care with the half pin I find the glue ups are a good time to take the phone off the hook lock the doors I always tell my students that it's a 10-minute opportunity to ruin weeks worth of work that goes wrong on the sides of the pins I'm going to wet my brush and I'm going to vary slightly dilute the glue I've talked to glue manufacturers and most of them reckon that up to 20 percent of dilution is fine I'm now going to try and cover the two-thirds nearest the end I won't go right to the corner but I am wetting the majority of the pin surfaces thinly as possible I see anything that looked too wet I could go back with a dry brush and try and remove it a bit good I've now got to do the long miters now I can be reasonably generous here this glue is going to squeeze to the exterior where it won't do any harm but I still like to double coat now the words glue both surfaces here we go now I've got a sash clamp standing by because something that tapped together easily when it was dry may need a clamp because of the expansion caused by the water-based glue I'm going to pop that into there you feel the change straightaway could get quite noisy I might have to hit this quite hard now the most important thing is that I close this shoulder line so I'll get down and look at it properly splendid now the squareness and the closing of the long mitre are very much controlled by these little G clamps the pencil line goes through the center of the joint at right angles to the surface and they tell me roughly where I should be putting the clamp pads a little squeeze there gets me a little squeeze out just what I want most important thing is to get it to close before the glue goes solid now I could see that this clamping pressure had closed a very very small gap that there was there so that's very pleasing I'll go to the middle I see tiny beads of glue coming out of the middle of the long mitre which is a good sign another remarkable thing that you can do with these clamps is to have some control over the squareness of these two pieces at the moment this is slightly open if I move the clamping points towards me it should begin to bring that back just go out that you may see it changing as you tighten the clamp that's virtually spot-on that just check the other side that's good no problem there I'm ready to saw off the clamping box first time is take off the G clamps this sawing requires a spacer against the fence I've been setting it up if I shine a light across the sawn surface you can see how smooth the majority is and this may be because I installed a special variable-pitch blade that's lovely it's time to bling it off

Channel: David Charlesworth

Views: 56,984

Rating: 4.7777777 out of 5

Keywords: Hand Tool Woodwork, woodworking, hand tools, gluing, glueing, squeezeout

Id: S0Nq58mYDBs

Length: 7min 52sec (472 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 29 2016