GIANT Shower Renovation - Master Bathroom Remodel

hello everybody today we are going to be gutting this bathroom the shower had the classic case of leaking into the kitchen below and the homeowners had only used that existing bathtub a single digit number of times so they asked me hey do you think we could just do a giant shower and to that I said absolutely as much as I can't wait to pick up the hammer before we can do so you got to protect the flooring this is just some Ram Board with some blue painters tape only thing I would say is maybe test out some tape on the floor you don't want to pull any of the finish up and then just over the carpet in my little workspace got some drop sheets now there's no door in this little entryway so I just took some Vapor bear and then a stick on zipper right down the middle just to help control the levels of dust and with any of these projects just because I'm filming I like to just kind of change out the lighting get a little bit of a wider light better to see things with of course any floor registers in the dust Zone need to be locked up it's still gonna find a way but you want to just reduce it as much as you can and then I always recommend changing the filters out after these types of projects I like to fill up a bucket while the water's still on just to flush out the toilet bowl and then speaking of which any shutoffs in the bathroom before turning off the main water supply I like to test the individual shutoffs to see if they're going to need replacing or not honestly it's just a good idea to generally just replace them anyways they're ticking time bombs but do what you will toilet of course garbage bag on don't want it dripping on the floor as I take it out and then below the vanity actually there were no individual shut-offs so I had to cut each of the lines and just cap them with these temporary SharkBite end caps and then same thing with the drain here just getting those threaded pieces off so that I can get the vanity top out in one piece just makes it a lot easier anytime I can smash I will smash and I know what you're thinking why don't you just get this out in one piece it's it's a nice vanity base you could Salvage it look the reality of the situation is is I don't get compensated to salvage things it takes a lot more time to get things out carefully in in one piece than it does otherwise like with this countertop for example just cutting it in half why because I'm one person and this thing's big and heavy in order to remove the tub I take out the surrounding tiles as they're kind of locking it into place and then open up the front side to get access to the water lines you want to cut these off otherwise when you try to lift the tub it will be tethered kind of down and in place and then using a drain removal tool to get the drain out and the Overflow is just a couple of screws that being done I can just lift it up out of place and then once again taking the Sawzall to it same reason as the vanity top again you know just make things easier don't don't bang up your clients homes then just carrying on with the rest of the demo process just smashing cutting ripping out wherever necessary don't be afraid to to utilize your Sawzall uh try and remove things in big chunks is always nice but sometimes it's just too hard so cutting things up generally makes it a lot easier for it to come out and of course you want to wear your PPE a big big fan of the respirator for environments like this they just get disgusting take care of your lungs throw that respirator on it's not a hard thing to wear you get used to it after a while I was really curious to see how exactly the shower had failed and after getting everything up you could see some water damage around the drain which is really interesting to see obviously very unfortunate that that happened but it did seem as if though that is where the leak occurred then getting these water lines cut down below the subfloor and capping them that way you get the water to the house back on letting the people drink their water try to resume a somewhat normal life when it comes to removing tiled walls I like to take my hammer just make a nice little horizontal line and then Rock the sheet back and forth until it comes out when you can remove them in big sheets it's just so much easier because when you break them down into little pieces and it creates a little Rubble it's just messy it's dusty and it's a pain to get out the go-to floor installation method in my area is the lath and depending on how many Staples they used it can be a real pain to come up but either way I like the SDS with the tile scraping bit I just find it really makes short work of this still it's a lot of work uh but it's it's not too bad if you have the right tools since we will be doing a curbless shower I need to recess the floor to try and minimize the amount of build up in the rest of the bathroom floor just taking a skill Sawzall and an oscillating tool to cut where necessary and then I can start prying up the existing OSB something else that they really wanted was a pocket door and this is my first time doing one it was a pretty interesting install just opening up the existing space to get the rough opening for the kit that I was using so just marking everything with a straight edge and then cutting it out trying to just minimize the amount of drywall repair I'm gonna have to do and you'll notice that I actually left the drywall on the other side again trying to minimize that amount of work I take out the existing Framing and then that way I can build in my new framing for the rough opening that is required and once I have that opening I put in the pocket door shimming out the side first get it nice and level and then I use a laser to establish the top there and get that nice and level using shims and screws where necessary making the changes to the drain situation for our new layout so obviously capping off the existing ones and then because we're going to have a dual rain head system I want it to upgrade the inch and a half drain to a two inch so coming back to where the nearest uh two inch was and just teeing off of that that way I can get a larger drain to handle the volume of water that will come from the shower so we need to have a talk because you're about to see me do something that I would never suggest anybody do and that is cover up a window now the correct way to go about this would be to remove the window have a brick layer repair the exterior side and then redo everything from the interior side however that is extremely expensive and was outside of my client's budget so there are two main problems when we talk about covering up a window the first being that a window is a point of failure Windows have a lifespan and over time the potential for a leak will increase so to combat this you can see me here just increasing the waterproofing done sealing around all of the window really just going through a whole tube of this stuff trying to get a completely watertight seal and then the second issue we're gonna have is the condensation form from the temperature difference so to combat this I'm using this rigid foam I paint the outside of it black so from the exterior side it would appear as if the shutters are closed and then I do two layers of this sealing it into the window space and then also going around with spray foam to really help insulate this and even with all of this I mean this is still a weak point so again I just really want to make it clear to you guys this is not something I would ever suggest anybody do however you know the homeowners and I had this discussion we went over everything and at the end of the day it's their home and they were comfortable with doing this and then the final step in all of this was just repairing The Vapor Barrier so where all the old one was puts a new piece over and got some tuck tape around it to seal it all up now I would eventually be adding a wall in front of this one so before doing that I just installed a piece of drywall and some wood strips to add a little rigidity to the pocket door here and then framing out some new walls as well as a new ceiling for the little shower area the reason for the wall specifically was to house both the plumbing as well as the niches and then for the ceiling dropping it down is we're going to do some recessed rain heads and it's just gonna make it a lot easier to drop it down and have a perfectly flat ceiling that way for our large format tile we can get a really nice Bond and then roughing in the shower controls these are by tensor using a laser to keep them perfect with one another and then of course running water up to the Rain head as well as the handheld and actually using hammer arresters on both the cold and hot supply lines just to reduce any noise with the sudden shut off and and turning on of the water this is the wire for the LED niches just 18 2 lvt which I fish from the under vanity area through the joists and then up to their respective niche now with a curbless shower of course we want to recess the subfloor but in this bathroom we had I-beam style joists so I notched these two by fours to account for the upper part of those joists and then this way I can sit the two by fours in three quarter of an inch down the depth of my subfloor that way when I inlay the new subfloor the top of it will be flush with the top of the joists you can see here I'm just screwing them into one another using three inch construction screws and really just putting a whole lot of them in I then cut down three quarter inch plywood to the size of the openings the end pieces I actually cut bigger that way you can see I kind of get the ends underneath the existing framing so that I can screw them up and in and of course using a combination of flooring screws as well as construction adhesive and then with any of these middle pieces I cut them about three inches longer than the opening that way I can have an inch and a half get underneath each of the longer sides you can see me kind of just putting a piece of wood on them and then hammering the piece so the plywood gets snug tight underneath the existing Framing and the existing subfloor on the right hand side hey there before we continue on with the project I just want to take a quick moment to thank hellofresh for sponsoring today's video if you're like myself and you're not a pro in the kitchen no worries because hellofresh keeps it foolproof with all of their recipes arriving pre-portioned with easy to follow steps it really is a nice process and if you're worried about repetition don't be because they offer 40 recipes and over a hundred seasonal and convenience items to choose from each week with this much variety there is an option for everyone forget about having to research new recipes every week or waiting in the checkout line at grocery stores with hellofresh that is all taken care of your free time will be your time as you can probably imagine doing these Renovations the last thing that I want to be thinking about is what's for dinner and hellofresh has taken care of that completely so go to hellofresh.com and use code welcome 50 for 50 off plus your first box ships free once again go to hellofresh.com and use code Walken 50 for 50 off plus your first box ships for free and then adding in the rough in for the floor heat so this is a 4x4 deep metal box that I cut out and then this way I'm going to bring a wire from the existing general area power up into my box to supply the floor heat now I'm not here to tell you about your local code and whether or not you can do this however in my circumstance my floor Heats load was less than 3 amps and the existing circuit at its highest point I only measured one amp of draw on it so I felt more than comfortable of sharing this now in saying that I would never recommend putting it on with a bathroom circuit specifically as if you plug in say a hair dryer plus the 3 amps of your floor heat if you have a 15 amp circuit that could be enough to blow the circuit right so again if if this is something out of your comfort zone call an electrician I'm not here to tell you your specific code you can also see I got two half inch core lines from the box down to the bottom plate there I just Notch it out that way I can eventually fish my heating cable up into the box and then I recess this box that way I can get a Plastering on it and the plaster ring is what's going to sit flush with the surrounding wall foreign now realistically you're probably not going to have a giant void behind your wall like I did so you're gonna have a bit of a tighter Bend you might have to notch the ends of those core lines there in this case I I had that access so it was really nice I just took a couple of half inch Clips ideally you'd be using two whole PVC clips for this but this is what I had and then here we're roughing in all the rest of the electrical so they wanted under cabinet uh receptacles here so I just notched out this entire wall it's gonna be hidden by the vanity anyway so figured it was easier just to notch the whole thing we don't have to make it all pretty and then running my wires and then we're also doing a bidet style toilet so again because we're gonna have the baseboard cover this it's going to restrict the amount of drywall repair I have to do by notching out the drywall under the height of the baseboard and that way I can bring power down run it through all these studs and get it into my whole connected device box in and that's where the receptacle will eventually go that will power up the toilet now they had two existing exhaust fans one as you're seeing here and then one in the water closet so both got replaced with something a little higher quality and the one out here actually getting a Bluetooth speaker compatible fan and I gotta say the quality of it wasn't the greatest the install was really rough but it's nice having that option if you want to play your music podcast whatever you can have that speaker available to you framing out a nice little bench for the shower so the shower was only 39 inches in depth so we didn't want to go too big with the bench here so this is a 12 inch deep 36 inch wide and 18 inch tall bench just for hanging out with some 2x4s putting a piece of plywood on the top and then this way it's ready to get drywalled over getting some half inch cement board up on the ceilings and you might be wondering why if you're familiar with my content you know that I like drywall in the showers in this case we're putting 24 inch by 48 inch porcelain tile on these ceilings so I didn't trust the paper of the drywall to be able to support that weight so instead just using the cement board and that way I know it's going to be able to handle the weight of the porcelain and then on top of that we're putting in three potlets so I just cut those out with a drywall saw and then as well on either side we're going to have a giant rain head so cutting those out getting that all ready as well and as always using the Schluter Kerdi membrane system so using half inch green board to go alongside that and over fastening it always a good idea it's going to be supporting a lot of weight so it doesn't hurt to drive in a few more screws and it's not like you have to worry about patching them because again it's going to get the membrane over top on this vanity wall here we're gonna have two wall sconces and two backlit mirrors so just kind of cutting out the holes for that I have two octagon boxes at the top there and just kind of an opening for our Romex to come out of in the middle of each mirror finally getting started with the waterproofing so we got the 72 inch Schluter pan here biggest they make so I would have to end up extending this pan to be a bit bigger but just kind of cutting it out dry fitting it and then starting on the walls I use all set when waterproofing it's expensive but you don't want to mess around waterproofing and there is a genuine difference between all set and other thin sets or at least I find I mix it up on the thinner consistency and use a v-notch trowel before going back and collapsing all those ridges with a drywall knife just want to try to get all the air out of it you're not trying to squeeze all of the thinset out as that is what is going to give you that adhesion really standard stuff with the drain install just kind of gluing it into place then setting it down I use a quarter inch square Notch trout for the shower pan itself just getting it in and then kind of shuffling on over you want to be careful not to put too much weight on one spot you don't want to damage the pan and then mixing up some dry packs it's my first time actually working with dry pack really interesting stuff I just kind of mixed it up in this garbage bag before pouring it onto the ends and then this way I can go ahead and screed it on over just using a flat Edge and getting that slope to be consistent with the shower pin using a 2x4 to get the edge nice and flat and then just letting it set up overnight so despite having recessed the shower subfler we still had a little bit of height to work on to get these two areas to be flush with one another so this is just quarter inch plywood which I am using in combination of subfloor glue as well as flooring screws to adhere down I probably should have staggered my joints but it is what it is and then after getting this all in with the combination of the teacher heat that will get my shower floor and the rest of the bathroom floor to be perfectly flush with one another check this out guys this here is what I call a game changer this is schluter's new teacher heat and it is just peel and stick it's it's literally that easy like I dry cut it I peeled off the end and then just Tamp it all down and even if you mess up you can kind of lift it at first which you might be thinking like how is that a strong enough Bond but the thing is it's gonna the bond is gonna strengthen over time so the next day trying to lift this up I just I couldn't so really really cool stuff you don't have to get all messy with the thinset I was really really happy with this uh change that that they've made in their product then laying out the heating cable itself but before that you want to test it before you even break it off the coil as once you break that little seal it has the warranty is void so you really want to test it make sure it's lining up with the manufacturer's specs and then that way you can start laying it she's a grout float to insert it in a 2-3 spacing and just getting it over all of the areas where there's gonna be foot traffic and you're gonna mess up on this I promise so you're probably gonna have to redo the layout a couple times don't worry that's very very normal and then just fishing up the sensor probes as well as the heat cable itself to the thermostat box where I will be able to make the connections mixing up more of the all set for the waterproofing to continue you can see I just have a hose hooked up to the toilet connection always always recommend having a water source available in your bathroom so you can do things like this and since I'm indoors of course wearing a respirators you don't want to breathe this stuff in just getting some membrane on that dry pack because it's obviously not waterproof you want to extend it from Kerdi to Kerdi and then doing all of my inside Corners the outside corners all of the joints uh the drain and especially with the curbless shower we want to waterproof the area outside as well so you're going to see me get some banding on that area where the pan meets the ditra as well as kind of just towards each the outside walls as far as I can get it anytime I can start tiling that is a good day and today was the good day so here we're starting with the ceiling and this is the cutout for the rain head so the right head itself is going to have a lip to cover any of the edges so I don't have to be super clean with these Cuts but still I want to want to get it somewhat close so just using a quarter inch bit on the corners and then using my grinder blade to get those straight edges and then polishing it all off a little bit just to get rid of any of the uh the Uglies and then I'm actually going to use a half inch square Notch travel and get my thin set trowed right onto the piece and then back butter the ceiling and then it really really important here with the ceiling with tiles display we want 100 coverage so really just trying to rock that piece back and forth collapse those ridges and then just being extra cautious getting a couple clamps on there because you know why not and then this is the pot light cut out so just kind of going with a four and a half inch blade here and then I can get that circle cut out kind of clean it up with the baby cone and then I can pop my pot light in make sure it fits and once I know we're good to go I can get that piece on there and then just kind of continuing with the rest of the ceiling you'll notice that I have a ledger board on the side that I just screwed in it just kind of made the install a little easier these tiles are really heavy especially when you get the thinset on there so working overhead like that having that ledger board was just a nice little Comfort if I needed to rest it down for a sec I could and then using the wedge style system get these pieces all perfectly flush with one another you can see I got the suction cup tool having one of these is gonna really help with a tile size this big as there's nowhere really convenient to grab them otherwise by the way if you're still watching this and you found it entertaining or informative or anything like that if I could just ask you to maybe consider hitting the like button or subscribing as it would really help me out these videos take a lot of time to make as you can probably tell by my upload frequency so I'd really appreciate it thank you everyone with this cool little textured stone for the vanity wall here which I thought was really cool a nice ceramic tile and just kind of adhering that to the wall I got a ledger board right down below that way I can have two full-size pieces meet the ceiling have it really really tight and then really I only need one piece that's going to connect to the floor on the left hand side because that's where the the vanity will kind of reveal that piece of stone but I'm going to leave that until the floor is finished that way I can have my tiles sit right down on top of that floor cutting out the Octagon box just playing a more dangerous game of connect the dots and was this necessary no no it definitely wasn't but I just found it satisfying so I did it anyways again like the fixture is going to cover most of the surrounding area on that cutout so we don't need to be too exact with it but again it was just satisfying I suppose the rain heads tying in with just a braided hose to a Pex connection and then they come with spring-loaded clips that will keep them nice and tight to that ceiling now the shower floor so here you can see I just take a 2x4 rip it down into about a quarter inch little strips and then I get them in the shape of the shower pan I use a hot glue gun to adhere them together marking out the drain grate and all of the perimeter and then you can see I laid out the tiles on a somewhat flat surface transferring over the template getting the drain centered and then marking out really I want to just get the corners here and the drain grate that way I can take my straight edge UCC marking corner to corner and just getting those lines established so that I can make all the necessary cuts I start off with a dry fit with a shower floor this complex really want to make sure everything's perfect before you begin setting because man doesn't ever take a long time to get those cuts nice and perfect you see me using a polishing pad on all of the edges we don't want any sharp cut lines on the feeties and then you can notice two little metal profiles along the outside of the shower this is the Schluter Deco SG and it's a half inch thick so it's going to hold my 10 millimeter glass inside this way when my glass installers come out they don't have to actually drill any holes into the waterproofing below they can just get the fixed pieces and put them right into those channels on top of this I actually silicone the channels down to act as a just another kind of additional level of waterproofing that way any water that gets below the floor tiles of the shower instead of having that chance of seeping out into the floor area although it's all waterproofed anyways just has an increased chance to flow down the shower pan toward towards the drain instead and you can see trying to get everything nice and perfect I start out with the drain for the envelope cut as we really want that nice perfect square grout line around it and then once we have the surrounding pieces looking good we can start wedging everything together again using the half inch trowel and just getting that full coverage back buttering our pieces getting everything in there and then you can see not only did I silicone them down anyways but I get a bead of silicone on the outside as well and don't worry I I did extend I ran out of silicone with this tube but I extended it got a new one and then did the whole outside of this profile with the shower bench we're gonna have tiles meeting at an exterior kind of corner so I want to miter them try to get that really Sleek finish I just take my grinder blade as you can see Mark out a line and then go back at a 45 trying to get it really tight we want to take off too much material because the more you take off the weaker it's going to get the increased chance of chipping it and once I have it at a point where I'm happy I go ahead and bond it to the bench and then tape up those joints where the two tiles meet so they can cure really close together originally the plan was just kind of have the same tile on this entire back wall but I thought it was going to be a bit Bland right just an entire white wall and spoke with the homeowners and they decided to put the same tile that was on the vanity wall as a little accent strip going up this back wall and I thought that was incredible like originally I I wasn't sure how it would look the two tiles but after seeing it come together man I just thought it was really beautiful it's it's simple of course right we got the white and light gray which is very typical but it worked out really nicely I was really happy with their design choices on this really entire project and then sliding in a couple of 3 8 inch thick Chrome profiles on the edge of this so we can have a transition between the two tiles starting with the first of the white tiles on this wall and you can notice uh you'll see a little bit of extra troweling action on the right side there it was because when I drywalled this this wall specifically I used a tapered piece on the edge so I had just a slightly larger Gap towards that right side so to account for that I just packed in some extra thinset in this case troweling out on the back of the tiles back buttering the walls and then also troweling out the additional right side there so we don't have any voids we want really really good coverage with this tile especially since it's so big we want a really secure Bond using a engineered stone for the bench top here and since my edging tiles came up ever so slightly higher than the actual top of the bench I just went ahead and packed extra thinset down below and then trowed out the back of the stone top and then taping it up giving a slight pitch into the shower drain on another note in regards to the tiles for the floor and the walls the wall they're obviously the same White Tile same size but the Wallace we have the glossy and then for all of the floors we have a mat so we don't go slipping and sliding everywhere now with that back wall established we got that grout line you can see my laser lining up with it we can cut out both of the niches and it was here that I realized I made a slight mistake you see when I picked out the height of my shower controls I thought that I had accounted for everything however because I had to rip down the first row of tiles uh it ended up being that the top here of the water line as you can see was slightly too high so I just had to kind of redo get a different fitting on there so I could keep it a little lower profile and then that way my knee should be able to get in there then just added a little bit of blocking to join drywall to Niche and poke a hole in the top of the niche to get that lvt wire through the top corner I'd also just like to mention a couple of tools that were really essential for this tiling job the first being the laser level that I'm using I was actually sent this by Sigmund and I was really impressed by the quality of this tool especially when you consider the price point I've used a number of lasers in the past but I was really happy with the lifespan of the batteries on these which is a huge Point especially considering that you can just easily recharge it it all comes with a nice little kit so you can do all that stuff and when we're tiling you really do need a laser of some kind one for that first row of tiles you need it to be perfectly level and two for things like these niches it's really helpful to get that consistent grout line the second tool that really helped me out was the suction lifter by vevor again really impressed with the quality of this tool and it made lifting these giant heavy porcelain tiles a lot easier when you're dealing with large format tiles it can be really hard to get them into position because there's not really anywhere that's good to grab especially when it's covered in thinset so yeah I would really just suggest taking a look at these two tools if you have a project like this one coming up I'll include links down below so be sure to check them out because I really enjoyed using them got the final accent tile here we got a little Outlet down there as well for a possible warming basket that they might get in the future to cut out around that and then just pop this bad boy in and then moving on to the niches so starting off with all my niches I like to get the bottom tile pitch it out ever so slightly get the back tile on there and then do the top and the sides now of course since we have the LED lighting go in I get the Schluter Deco SG profile in the top there first just kind of silicone it into place this just makes it a little easier to work with I find and then get that top piece in get the size to support it and then get my metal profiles in and I miter them for that Sleek finish and in this case my line wasn't absolutely perfect my cut line it's hard when you have a singular piece like this so I actually in cases like this I'll actually have the metal profiles pop out from that tile maybe about 1 32nd of an inch that way after the fact I can go with some silicone that's the same color as the grout and tidy it all up have a really really nice perfect straight line for the accent tiles who went with laticrete permacolor Silver Shadow really just matched the color of the tile nicely it's getting it in there and wiping it off with a damp sponge cleaning up with a microfiber towel after the fact and got some tape to separate it we don't want the the gray getting into the joints of the other tile for everywhere else going with a white actually in while I always recommend staying away from White the reason we're doing it here is that we went with laticrete's spectralock 1 which shares the same qualities of that of an epoxy grout meaning it's not going to discolor so again white kind of a dangerous grout color to go with but with the spectralock one we're okay however it was horrendous to work with it was really just a lot more work than a regular grout for the LED tape light using a 4000k water rated tape light with 120 diodes per meter to that even light balance everywhere and then I like to solder my lines on at home and then come to the job site and use butt splices to connect it to the existing wire and then adhere it up into the profile slap a diffuser on top with the siliconing you want to get that any change of plane instead of doing grout as the silicone will allow for movement and I like to apply a thick bead spray it with soapy water go back with a popsicle stick and then round it out get a really nice clean looking joint there I start at the bottom and work my way up getting the wall sconces and led mirrors in and with the mirrors I went with these giant backlit mirrors which I thought looked gorgeous especially like this is a nine foot tall uh ceiling in this bathroom so having the tall mirrors I thought really just stepped it up a notch and I'm a huge fan of the backlit mirrors I think they just add a lot to a space and that's really for any type of accent lighting I think that lighting is one of the most vital Parts when it comes to updating a space to tie in my handhelds I had to just extend that hole down a little bit and then get this three inch brass nipple in there using combination of Teflon and pipe dope and then that way I can get a nice snug connection set up the laser establish the height for the bar and then put a couple of holes in where it's going to get screwed into the wall it's a combination of wall plugs and silicone make it nice and secure and then that way I can fasten this in you can see here with pretty much all of my bits on the grinder I like when they have the flange connection so you can just screw it on you can change bits really fast that way and anytime I'm making holes I like it on the grinder I just find it's a lot smoother than that of the drill if there's anything wrong with the drill this is just the way I prefer to do it again here you can kind of see me get that masonry anchor in there with a thick bead of silicone and then get the screws in have it all nice these rough in boxes were really nice I think any maintenance on the road be made really easy with this and what was I saying anyways getting the finishing plate on here you just cut down the excess of that box you get your valve in there and you get a bead of silicone on this get it against that tile wall and try not to spray yourself as you put on the final pieces I had to take the door jamb out here to get the flooring in so putting it back just shimming it out getting it nice and Plum level flushed with the walls all that good stuff and for all the trim work here using this two-part adhesive so you put the glue to bead on one side spray it with the other side hold them together in that Bond strengthens within a matter of seconds it's really going to help out preventing any cracking in the future as well as just honestly making the installation a whole lot easier you can see just kind of putting the whole casing on in one go so I'm gonna be using this all the time for any of my miters in the future the bidet style toilet what a game changer I mean it's got the heated seat it's got the the spray functions I think it even started seeing to me at one point I might have imagined that but man just a really really nice toilet I am envious for sure foreign and that's it thank you so much for watching I really appreciate it if you haven't already done so if you wouldn't mind just hitting that like button subscribing or leaving a comment anything like that really helps me out so you can imagine these videos take a very long time to make so just by hitting something just helps to ensure that I can continue to make this content if you are located in the Toronto area or more specifically the Mississauga area my contact information will be down below now in regard to the project details the overall time frame was about 20 working days and about 25 000 USD or 33 000 Canadian for these specific items we had 450 dollars for a 14 yard garbage bin rental 750 for the waterproofing system that's the Schluter System including both niches Seventeen hundred dollars for the class plus the installation this I sub out to a custom glass company three hundred dollars for the electrical rough-in three hundred and seventy dollars for the plumbing rough-in 450 for the trim paint indoors 450 dollars for the tile setting materials that's your thin set your Clips your tile profiles 520 dollars for your drywall and framing including all of the subfloor related stuff twenty two hundred dollars for the plumbing fixtures clients were not afraid to spend money on some higher end stuff which is really nice to see 2450 for a vanity the vanity was really high quality as well twenty two hundred dollars for all of the tile 670 dollars for the heated floor that's the ditra heat including the smart thermostat a thousand and forty dollars for that fancy bidet toilet money well spent in my opinion 450 for miscellaneous stuff that's the stuff I'm too lazy to categorize 300 for those light fixtures 300 for the LED mirrors 1850 sales tax and 8 500 in labor and the same number is just in Canadian dollar and just one more thing I want to add in regards to these numbers is that these are my numbers okay so if you're getting quotes to to get your project done don't expect everything to line up with my numbers here everything varies drastically by area by contractor so just keep that in mind and and if you are going the contractor route just get multiple quotes to vet your contractors don't necessarily go with the cheapest one or the most expensive go with the one that feels right and other than that I hope you enjoyed this video and I'll see you in the next one

Channel: Workin' with Wolkon

Views: 1,339,159

Keywords: Bathroom remodel, Bathroom renovation, Remodelling bathroom, Bathroom makeover, Bathroom design, Bathroom, Master bathroom remodel, House renovation, Renovation, Remodel, How to remodel a bathroom, How to renovate a bathroom, Shower, Heated floor, Freestanding tub, Bathroom transformation

Id: 5u32og_mmpc

Length: 38min 59sec (2339 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 28 2023